| Ilfracombe | |
|---|---|
 Ilfracombe seen fromHillsborough | |
  Ilfracombe Location withinDevon | |
| Population | 11,042 (2021 parish census)[1] |
| OS grid reference | SS516474 |
| Civil parish |
|
| District | |
| Shire county | |
| Region | |
| Country | England |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Post town | ILFRACOMBE |
| Postcode district | EX34 |
| Dialling code | 01271 |
| Police | Devon and Cornwall |
| Fire | Devon and Somerset |
| Ambulance | South Western |
| UK Parliament | |
| Website | www.ilfracombetowncouncil.gov.uk |
| 51°12′29″N4°07′12″W / 51.208°N 4.120°W /51.208; -4.120 | |
Ilfracombe (/ˈɪlfrəkuːm/IL-frə-koom) is aseaside resort andcivil parish on theNorth Devon coast,England, with a smallharbour surrounded bycliffs.
The parish stretches along the coast from the 'Coastguard Cottages' inHele Bay toward the east and 4 miles (6 km) alongthe Torrs toLee Bay toward the west. The resort is hilly and the highest point within the parish boundary is 'Hore Down Gate', 2 miles (3 km) inland and 860 feet (270 m) above sea level.
The landmark ofHillsborough Hill dominates the harbour and the site of anIron Age fortified settlement. In the built environment, the architectural-award-winningLandmark Theatre has a distinctive double-conical design. The 13th-century parish church,Holy Trinity, and the St Nicholas's Chapel (a lighthouse) on Lantern Hill, have been joined byDamien Hirst's statue ofVerity as points of interest.
Ilfracombe has been settled since theIron Age, when theDumnonii (the Roman name for the inhabitants of the South-West) established a hill fort on the dominant hill,Hillsborough (formerlyHele'sBarrow). The origin of the town's name has two possible sources. The first is that it is a derivative of theAnglo-SaxonAlfreinscoma - by which name it was noted in theLiber Exoniensis of 1086. The translation of this name (fromWalter William Skeat of the department ofAnglo Saxon atCambridge University) means the "Valley of the sons of Alfred". The second origin is that the name Ilfracombe was derived from Norseillf (bad), Anglo-Saxonyfel (evil ford) and Anglo-Saxoncumb (valley) perhaps from a Celtic source (compare Welshcwm), thus 'The valley with the bad ford'.[2][3]
The manor house atChambercombe in east Ilfracombe was recorded in the 1086Domesday Book as being built by a Norman knight Champernon (from Chambernon in France) who landed withWilliam of Normandy. It is also said to be haunted.[4]
Ilfracombe comprised two distinct communities; a farming community around theparish church calledHoly Trinity, parts of which date from the 12th century, and a fishing community around the naturalharbour formed between Capstone, Compass and Lantern Torrs. It is recorded that the lands by the church were part of the estate owned byChampernowne family, while those by the harbour belonged to the Bouchier family:Earls of Bath.
Because of the natural layout of the harbour, Ilfracombe became a significant safe port (registered port of refuge) on theBristol Channel. It also had trade routes betweenKinsale andTenby, which made the port stronger. In 1208 it was listed as having providedKing John with ships and men to invadeIreland; in 1247 it supplied a ship to the fleet that was sent to conquer theWestern Isles ofScotland; 6 ships, with 79 men were sent to support the siege ofCalais. Ilfracombe was the last disembarkation point for two large forces sent to subdue theIrish. The building which sits on Lantern Hill by the harbour, known as St Nicholas's Chapel (built 1361) is reputed to be the oldest working lighthouse in the UK; a light/beacon has been there for over 650 years.[5]
The town was also home to the Bowen family.James Bowen was sailing master ofHMS Queen Charlotte, the flagship ofRichard, Earl Howe at the 1794 "Glorious First of June" battle. James Bowen was commissioned by Howe for his leadership in the battle. He rose through the levels - commander ofHMS Argo, Dreadnought, and in Georgian England titled "defender of Madeira", led the fleet which rescued theBritish Army atCorunna in thePeninsular War. For his skill in saving the Peninsula army from Napoleon's forces, he was presented to a joint meeting of the Upper and Lower Houses of Parliament to receive the rare honour of record of "grateful thanks of the nation". He retired as a Rear Admiral and Commissioner of theRoyal Navy.Captain Richard Bowen (1761–97) James Bowen's younger brother, a commander onHMS Terpsichore, served underLord Nelson and was killed at theBattle of Santa Cruz de Tenerife (1797). John Bowen (1780–1827), son of Admiral James Bowen, was a naval officer and colonial administrator. He founded the first settlement ofTasmania at Risdon Cove in 1803 - the settlement that later became known asHobart.[6] Captain John Bowen married Queen Charlotte's niece.
Lieutenant A E Down was initially posted to Ilfracombe to lead a protection ship forHM Customs and Excise. He married a local girl and rose through the officers’ ranks to retire as Vice Admiral. His son joined the navy aged 14 (his first navy kit is on display atNational Maritime Museum, Greenwich). In 1802 James Meek married Down's daughter and settled in the town; James Meek was appointed the Comptroller of Victuals to the Royal Navy in 1832. He was knighted and died in Ilfracombe in 1852. (Gentlemen's Gazette)
There was a battlemented castle overlooking the harbor; of this nothing remains except contemporary records and the area designated Castle Hill off Portland Street/Montepellier Terrace.[7]
The novelistFrances Burney stayed in Ilfracombe in 1817. Her diary[8] entries (2 July – 5 October) record early 19th-century life in Ilfracombe: a captured Spanish ship; two ships in distress in a storm; the visit ofThomas Bowdler; and her lucky escape after being cut off by the tide. A few years later in the 1820s, a set of four tunnels were hand-carved byWelsh miners to permit access to the beaches by horse-drawn carriage as well as on foot. Previously access was gained by climbing the cliffs, rounding the point by boat, swimming or at the lowest tides clambering around the rocks of the point. These tunnels led to a pair of tidal pools, which in accordance withVictorian morals, were used for segregated male and female bathing. Whereas women were constrained to a strict dress code covering up the whole body, men generally swam naked. The tunnels are still viewable and are signposted as theTunnels Beaches.[citation needed]
In 1856, writerMary Ann Evans (pen-nameGeorge Eliot) accompaniedGeorge Henry Lewes to Ilfracombe to gather materials for his workSeaside Studies published in 1858. ActorPeter Sellers lived in the town when his parents managed the Gaiety Theatre; he first stepped on the stage there and reputedly played the drums. Another actor,Terry Thomas visited the town frequently to stay with his sister, and in the same period,Joan Collins andJackie Collins were schooled here and boarded in the town. In the last two decades, the town has been home to many artists including locallyDamien Hirst, andGeorge Shaw a runner up for theTurner Prize. There is an annual art festival when local artists open their homes for visitors to see their work and 7 to 10 permanent art galleries. The town's firstlifeboat was bought in 1828 but a permanent service was not available until theRoyal National Lifeboat Institution builta lifeboat station at the bottom of Lantern Hill near the pier in 1866. The present station at Broad Street dates from 1996.[9]
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In 1911, the Irish nationalistAnna Catherine Parnell (sister ofCharles Stewart Parnell) drowned at Ilfracombe and is buried in the churchyard atHoly Trinity.[10]
Alice Frances Louisa Phillips (b. 26 January 1891 at 85 High Street, Ilfracombe) and her father Escott Robert Phillips (b. 1869 Cardiff) held 2nd class ticket No. 2 on theTitanic, and set sail fromSouthampton on 10 April 1912 heading forNew Brighton, Pennsylvania. Alice was rescued in boat 12, but her father was lost in the disaster.[11][12]
There are three tiers of local government covering Ilfracombe, atparish (town),district andcounty level: Ilfracombe Town Council,North Devon Council (based inBarnstaple) andDevon County Council (based inExeter). Ilfracombe Town Council is based at the Ilfracombe Centre at 44 High Street, which also serves as an area office for North Devon Council.[13][14]
Ilfracombe was anancient parish. It was also anancient borough in the middle ages, but its borough status lapsed and it was subsequently run by its parishvestry, in the same way as most rural areas.[15] Urban forms of local government were re-established in 1851 when alocal board was created for the parish.[16][17] The local board built atown hall at 20 High Street to serve as its headquarters, which was formally opened in 1863.[18][19]
Local boards were reconstituted asurban district councils in 1894.[20] Ilfracombe Urban District Council was based at the town hall until 1931, when it converted the west wing of the Ilfracombe Hotel on Wilder Road to become its offices and meeting place and sold the town hall.[21][22] The urban district of Ilfracombe was abolished in 1974 under theLocal Government Act 1972, with the area merging with neighbouring districts to become the newNorth Devon district. Asuccessor parish was created covering the former urban district, with its council taking the name Ilfracombe Town Council.[23] In 1997 the town council established a new headquarters at 44 High Street, which had been built in 1935 as the offices of the Ilfracombe Gas Company, naming it the Ilfracombe Centre.[24][25]
The town lies within the Parliamentaryconstituency ofNorth Devon. It hadLiberal Democrat representation from 1992 to 2015 with MPNick Harvey.[26] and again since 2024 throughIan Roome.
From 2015 to 2024 it was aConservative seat, first represented byPeter Heaton-Jones from 2015 to 2019, and after 2019 bySelaine Saxby.
The town is alsotwinned withIfs inFrance.[27]
Ilfracombe overliesslates formed fromsedimentary rock that underwent geological stress (creatingfaults and folds), towards the end of theCarboniferous Period, around 300 million years ago. These are known as theIlfracombe slates. Ilfracombe lies within the North Devon Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty which is renowned for its dramatic coastal cliffs and landscape. Hillsborough, lying close to the town centre is a local nature reserve, and around the town are many other havens for wildlife, notable includingthe Cairn. The coast itself is part of the North Devon Voluntary Marine Conservation area because of its diverse and rare species.[28]
Until the mid-19th century Ilfracombe's economy was based around maritime activities: importinglime andcoal from Wales; fishing for herring; and international trade, including toWest Africa and theWest Indies. InGeorge III and theRegency period the town, population then 1800,[29]
The town gradually developed into a tourist resort served by ferries along theBristol Channel. The opening of the railway accelerated this development. The population grew until theFirst World War, then stabilised at 9,200, now 11,000. The economy suffered throughout the 1960s as UK holiday patterns changed, and suffered further through the closure of the railway line in 1970.[citation needed]
In the last 25 years, major investment byprivate 'light engineering' companies has added to the economy. These companies include:Pall Europe - a filtration manufacturer,[30] the European headquarters TDK-Lambda, a subsidiary of theTDK Corporation, which manufactures industrial & medical power supplies.[31] A number of light engineering firms provide additional employment and operate within a couple of miles of the town centre atMullacott Cross. There are 3 deep-sea fishing boats which sail from the port and several inshore boats which farm the local lobster, crabs and whelks. There are many private charters, sea cruise and coastal tour boat operators sailing from the harbour.[citation needed]
Ilfracombe is at the southern end of theA361, the longest 3-digitA-road in England which finishes on theA5 atKilsby on theNorthamptonshire-Warwickshire border nearRugby and is the town's main connection with theSouth West England motorway, theM5.[citation needed]
From 1874, Ilfracombe was served by theIlfracombe railway line that ran fromBarnstaple, but this closed in 1970. Now, the nearestNational Rail railway station is inBarnstaple and buses provide the public transport link from there to Ilfracombe. There are a number of regular bus services operating from Ilfracombe. These include:[citation needed]
There are also several smaller routes around the town run by the local operator Independent Coach Company.
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The first steam packets arrived at Ilfracombe in 1823, and soon a regular service betweenBristol and betweenSwansea developed.[32]On 16 May 1873, a wooden promenade pier was opened to allow the pleasure steamers to berth at all tides. On 23 June 1894, it was reported in theIlfracombe Chronicle that over 2,500 people arrived in no less than seven boats, it describes them as 'commodious and well-appointed vessels with an excellent reputation for speed and comfort.' As well as holidaymakers, the boats carried workers, live and dead stock and other merchandise to and from the town.[33][34]
ThePS Waverley (1885) arrived in Ilfracombe in 1887, after her ownersP & A Campbell brought her toBristol, initially on a charter, as their first pleasure steamer to work theBristol Channel, and was based there until 1917. Deterioration of the wooden pier and part demolition during theSecond World War mean that a new pier was required. The wood was replaced with reinforced concrete and car parking space was increased. The new pier was opened on 6 July 1952.[35]
A seasonal passengerferry, operated byMSOldenburg, connects the harbour toLundy Island. Pleasure boats, includingMVBalmoral andPSWaverley, operate seasonal cruises from Ilfracombe, including crossings toPorthcawl. However, due to rising fuel costs these services are under threat.[36]A catamaran-based ferry service from Ilfracombe toSwansea was developed, however this service did not commence, reportedly because adequate landing and berthing facilities in Swansea have not been forthcoming.[37]
The town's educational needs are served by three schools: an infants school, a junior school andthe Ilfracombe Academy. Each of these schools are amongst the largest of their type in Devon. The Ilfracombe Academy serves the needs of Ilfracombe residents and those across the coastalNorth Devon area as far asLynton andLynmouth on theSomerset county border. It is a nationally recognised centre for Media Studies and was in 2004 awarded Media Arts Status. Upon completion of a new art block in 2007, the school's specialist status became simply arts. Further educational courses and vocational courses are run by the school.[citation needed]
Ilfracombe Museum was opened in 1932 in Ilfracombe Hotel's Victorian laundry and contains attractions from around the world including pickled bats and the two-headed kitten.[38] It also contains items and photographs of local railway interest including one of the concrete name boards from the now closed localrailway station, which can be seen on the front wall of the museum; and a collection of pieces of Victorianwedding cakes. It also has oak panels salvaged from the wreck ofHMSMontagu.
Ilfracombe also has a library located on the Residential Candar Retirement Development.[39]
Ilfracombe has a wide variety of architectural styles dating from the 13th century to 21st century. The town has ancient streets leading to the harbour; on higher ground there areGeorgian andRegency period terraces and mansions. The period from 1830 to 1900 was a time of great development and has been the subject of several books by J Bates thearchitecture of Ilfracombe which gives the town aVictorian flavour visible in many buildings. The latest style of architecture can be seen in the award-winning design of theLandmark Theatre.[citation needed]
Verity is a 2012stainless steel andbronze statue byDamien Hirst. The 20.25-metre (66.4 ft) tall sculpture stands on the pier at the entrance to the harbour.[40] It has been loaned to the town for 20 years. The name of the piecerefers to 'truth' and Hirst describes his work as a "modern allegory of truth and justice".[40] The statue depicts a pregnant woman holding aloft a sword while carrying thescales of justice and standing on a pile of law books.[40] Half of the sculpture shows the internal anatomy of the pregnant woman, with thefoetus visible.[40]
Ilfracombe haschurches of variousChristian denominations. The main Anglican church is theparish church,Holy Trinity, which is the mother church to St Peter's on Highfield Road. Several other churches identify themselves asEvangelical, but differ in denominational background. These include: St Philip and St James Church whose background isAnglican; threefree churches - Brookdale Evangelical Church and Encounter Church, of which the latter is the morecharismatic and Ilfracombe Baptist Church of theBaptist tradition on the High Street. There is also theRoman Catholic Our Lady Star of the Sea Church in Runnacleave Road, theMethodist/United Reformed Emmanuel Church on Wilder Road, andthe Salvation Army Corps church on Torrs Park, by Bath Place. There is aJehovah's Witness meeting place in Victoria Road.[citation needed]
 St Nicholas's Chapel | |
 | |
| Location | Lantern Hill, Ilfracombe |
|---|---|
| OS grid | SS5251247891 |
| Coordinates | 51°12′40″N4°06′47″W / 51.211135°N 4.113009°W /51.211135; -4.113009 |
| Tower | |
| Constructed | 1321 (first) |
| Construction | stone chapel |
| Height | 11 metres (36 ft) |
| Markings | white lantern on the top |
| Power source | mains electricity  |
| Operator | North Devon District Council[41] |
| Heritage | Grade I listed |
| Light | |
| First lit | 1819 (current) |
| Focal height | 39 metres (128 ft) |
| Range | 6 nmi (11 km; 6.9 mi) |
| Characteristic | Fl G 2.5s. |
Since at least the mid-17th century a light has been displayed from the 14th-century chapel atop Lantern Hill, to guide ships entering the harbour. The light remains operational, and is said to be Britain's oldest lighthouse. The current lantern was installed byTrinity House in 1819;[41] the date is shown on a fish-shapedweather vane.[42] The light was owned and overseen by theLord of the Manor of Ilfracombe; in the mid-19th century it was gas-powered (it used three gas burners with silveredreflectors) and displayed a fixed red light.[43]
The light is presently operated by the harbour authority and theGrade I listed building is owned by the North Devon Council. Regular worship in the chapel ceased at theReformation, and for a time the building served as a cottage for lighthouse keepers before falling into some dilapidation. It was restored in 1962, however, by the localRotary Club, under whose auspices the chapel is open to visitors in the summer months.[44]
Ilfracombe Rugby Union Club was founded in 1877 and welcomes players from 16 to 61.[45]
Ilfracombe Golf Club (located just beyondHele Bay)[46] was founded in 1892.[47]
The Ilfracombe cricket club play at Brimlands, a site shared with the town's rugby club.[48][49]
Ilfracombe Running Club was formed in 2013.[50] They meet atIlfracombe Town F.C. on Thursday evenings.[51]
Ilfracombe Town Football Club, who play at Marlborough Park nearThe Ilfracombe Academy, compete in the Premier Division of theWestern Football League.
Atennis club is based at Bicclescombe Park[52] which contains six tennis courts.[53]
Maritime activities include a popular yacht club and a Gig boat club with three boats which now[when?] competes in the world championships.[citation needed]
TheSouth West Coast Path connectingMinehead inSomerset toDorset, viaLand's End, passes through the town fromHele Bay toLee Bay via Ilfracombe Harbour.[citation needed]
The first person to swim the 30½ nautical miles (56.5 km; 35.1 mi) from Ilfracombe to Swansea wasGethin Jones, who achieved the record on 13 September 2009, taking nearly 22 hours. In 2016 Sian Clement became the first female and achieved a new fastest crossing at 14 hours 1 minute.[54]
From 2001 there was an economic regeneration programme led by the Ilfracombe & District Community Alliance MCTI, acommunity interest company designed to encouragesocial entrepreneurship. After widespread community consultation this programme developed a community economic strategy for the next twenty years published in 2005.The town council working with and North Devon District Council is formulating plans for the town's economic and physical structures. Proposed developments are: the enhancement of the harbour area;[55] A large extension (500 dwellings) to the town on high ground to the south. There is long-term development of the derelict bus station site based on plans developed by Terence O'Rourke;[56] and the creation of better youth support and recreation facilities at the Larkstone eastern side of the harbour area.[citation needed]
Each year, the residents and schoolchildren of Ilfracombe celebrate their heritage. These celebrations include six carnivals – aMay Day, led by a "green" man walking celebration, it is a successor to the May Day events held for centuries until suppressed by the church in the 19th century because of riotous, licentious and drunken behaviour; IlfracombeVictorian Celebration,[57] a week-long programme of events held annually in June to celebrate a time of the town's prosperity; a large streetcarnivalprocession during August, organised by Ilfracombe Lions; the "sea ilfracombe" festival in September and the Lighting of the Lights held during November; and atChristmas, aChristingle.[citation needed]
The town hosts 10 small art galleries, including the exhibitions displayed by the Art Society in their gallery in the Arcade on the seafront, the foyer of the Landmark Theatre, the Quay and in "Number Eleven, The Quay" within which there are manyDamien Hirst works.[citation needed]
Two other charitable events are organised each summer by Ilfracombe Round Table.[58] Both make use of Ilfracombe Pier as a display area. The first of these is the annual "South West Birdman" contest which involves entrants seeking to 'fly' from the pier in home-made flying machines. The second event is "Rescue Day", an opportunity for members of the public to learn about the activities of the emergency services.[citation needed]
Small Pond Productions is the main theatrical group in Ilfracombe, since its inception in 2002.[citation needed] It produces musicals, concerts and plays throughout the year. In 2007 the group created and performed the first stage production of theVicar of Dibley by arrangement withRichard Curtis and Tiger Aspect productions. Most recently[when?] they have produced large scale musicals at the town'sLandmark Theatre.[citation needed]
During the early 1990s, the team of the popular English reality TV showChallenge Anneka relocated the redundant old wooden library from the Hermitage site, to "Burnside" in the heart of theSlade Valley estate for use as a community-owned centre.[citation needed]
The Great Fire of Ilfracombe started at 12:40 a.m. on the night of 28 July 1896 in the basement of Mr William Cole's ironmongers and furniture shop on the corner of Portland Street and Fore Street. The local volunteer fire brigade had it under control by the following morning. The fire brigade's entire equipment was a manual Merryweather engine, a hose-reel cart and one telescopic ladder on wheels. In total thirty five houses and business premises and their contents were destroyed. Later that year the fire brigade crew were presented with medals and £2 each at a dinner in their honour at the Royal Clarence Hotel. The damage was estimated at the times at between £80,000 and £100,000.[59]
The same area of the town was struck by fire twice during the 1980s. On 12 December 1981, Draper's paint store in the upper story of the building on the corner of Portland Street and Fore Street, this fire was contained quickly, however fumes from the burning paint meant much of the local area was evacuated during the night. The second much larger fire started at 2:30 am on the night of 2 September 1983 in the shopping arcade under the Candar Hotel. In this fire one life was lost. The Candar Arcade site became the Candar sheltered residential apartments (the opening of Candar apartments was the last public engagement performed byCharles andDiana, as the Prince and Princess of Wales in 1992.[60]
Shortly before 7:00 BST on Wednesday, 8 August 2006, a fire broke out at the derelict Montebello Hotel in Fore Street, Ilfracombe. Twentyfire engines were required to put out the blaze including a number rushed to the scene fromWoolacombe,Barnstaple and the bordering county ofSomerset. Specialist equipment was brought in from as far afield asExeter. The fire spread to three neighbouring properties and showered debris over a wide area. The six-storey hotel was completely gutted, with only the front wall, chimney stacks and remains of the lift shaft frame surviving the blaze, and the fire was still being damped-down the following day. Fore Street was closed for some period due to the difficulties of demolition.[61] The building was eventually demolished when it was determined that the fire had left it structurally unsound.[62]
| Climate data for Ilfracombe (1930–1989 averages) | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 9 (48) | 9 (48) | 11 (52) | 13 (55) | 16 (61) | 19 (66) | 21 (70) | 20 (68) | 19 (66) | 15 (59) | 12 (54) | 10 (50) | 15 (58) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 4 (39) | 4 (39) | 4 (39) | 6 (43) | 8 (46) | 11 (52) | 13 (55) | 13 (55) | 11 (52) | 9 (48) | 6 (43) | 4 (39) | 8 (46) |
| Averageprecipitation mm (inches) | 121.9 (4.80) | 87.3 (3.44) | 93.5 (3.68) | 68.2 (2.69) | 73.7 (2.90) | 74.4 (2.93) | 81.7 (3.22) | 89.1 (3.51) | 104.4 (4.11) | 151.6 (5.97) | 138.8 (5.46) | 135.6 (5.34) | 1,220.2 (48.05) |
| Mean monthlysunshine hours | 50.0 | 72.0 | 130.4 | 175.2 | 213.2 | 221.9 | 199.9 | 194.1 | 143.2 | 97.6 | 57.6 | 43.7 | 1,598.8 |
| [citation needed] | |||||||||||||
{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)Conversion of shop to form community use offices at 44 High Street, Ilfracombe, granted 31 January 1997
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
| International | |
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| National | |
| Geographic | |
| Ilfracombe Lighthouse | |
