Humboldt County comprises the Eureka–Arcata–Fortuna, California,Micropolitan Statistical Area. It is located on the farNorth Coast of California, about 270 miles (435 km) north ofSan Francisco. It has among the most diverse climates of United States counties, with very mild coastal summers and hot interior days. Similar to the greater region, summers are extremely dry and winters have substantial rainfall.
Humboldt County is a densely forested mountainous and rural county with about 110 miles (177 km) of coastline (more than any other county in the state),[10] situated along thePacific coast inNorthern California's ruggedCoast (Mountain) Ranges. With nearly 1,500,000 acres (6,100 km2) of combined public and private forest in production, Humboldt County alone produces twenty percent of the total volume and thirty percent of the total value of allforest products produced in California.[11] The county contains over forty percent of all remainingold growthCoast Redwood forests,[12] the vast majority of which are protected or strictly conserved within dozens of national, state, and local forests and parks, totaling approximately 680,000 acres (1,060 sq mi).[13]
Spanish traders made unintended visits to California with theManila Galleons on their return trips from thePhilippines beginning in 1565. The first recorded entry by people of European origin was a landing by the Spanish in 1775 inTrinidad.[14]
The first recorded entry ofHumboldt Bay by non-natives was an 1806 visit from asea otter hunting party fromSitka employed by theRussian-American Company.[14] The party includedNew England captainJonathan Winship, Russian supervisors, andAleut hunters.[15][16] The bay was not visited again by people of European origin until 1849 whenJosiah Gregg's party arrived.[16] The following year Douglas Ottinger and Hans Buhne sailed the schoonerLaura Virginia into the bay. One of the pioneering passengers,Steven W. Shaw, proposed that the Laura Virginia Association name the bay Humboldt in honor of the naturalist and explorerAlexander von Humboldt.[17] The name was later applied to the county as a whole.[18]
The area aroundHumboldt Bay was once solely inhabited by theWiyotIndian tribe. One of the largest Wiyot villages,Tolowot, was located onIndian Island inHumboldt Bay. Founded around 900 BC, it contains a shellmidden 6 acres (2.4 ha) in size and 14 feet (4.3 m) deep. It was the site of theFebruary 26, 1860, massacre of the Wiyot people that was recorded byBret Harte, then living in Union, now calledArcata. Between 60 and 200 Wiyot men, women, and children were murdered that night in the midst of a religious ceremony. Tolowot is now a restricted site and aNational Historic Landmark.[16] In 2019, the island was restored to the Wiyot tribe, and is now known as Tuluwat or Duluwat island.
Humboldt, from a drawing made before 1854
Humboldt County was formed in 1853 from parts ofTrinity County.
On February 5 and 6, 1885, Eureka's entireChinese population of 300 men and 20 women were expelled after a gunfight between rival Chinese gangs (tongs) resulted in the wounding of a 12-year-old boy and the death of 56-year-old David Kendall, a Eureka City Councilman. After the shooting, anangry mob of 600 Eureka residents met and informed the Chinese that they were no longer wanted in Eureka and would behanged if they were to stay in town past 3 p.m. the next day. They were put on two steamships and shipped toSan Francisco. No one was killed in the expulsion. Another Chinese expulsion occurred during 1906 in a cannery on theEel River, in which 23 Chinese cannery workers were expelled after objections to their presence. However, some Chinese remained in theOrleans area, where some white landowners sheltered and purchased food for the Chinese mineworkers until after racial tension passed. Chinese did not return to the coastal cities until the 1950s.[19]
According to theUnited States Census Bureau, Humboldt County encompasses 4,052 square miles (10,490 km2), of which 3,568 square miles (9,240 km2) is land and 484 square miles (1,250 km2) is water.[20]
Cape Mendocino is the westernmost point in California (longitude 124 degrees, 24 minutes, 30 seconds).Humboldt Bay, the only deepwater port between San Francisco andCoos Bay, Oregon, is located on the coast at the midpoint of the county.
Humboldt County contains a diversity of plant and animal species, with significant forest and coastal habitats. In coastal areas there are extensiveredwood forests.[21] A prominent understory shrub is thetoyon, whose northern range limit is in Humboldt County.[22]
The smaller rivers include Redwood Creek, significant due to amount of its flow; theVan Duzen; the Eel River syncline group composed of theSouth Fork, theNorth Fork, and theSalt River; theMattole, Salmon, Elk, Bear, andLittle rivers.
Historically, Humboldt County and the entire far north coast of California have had many earthquakes over 6.0 magnitude. TheMendocino fracture zone is in the area.[23]
The1992 Cape Mendocino earthquakes were a series of three major earthquakes that occurred off the coast of Cape Mendocino, California on April 25 and 26, 1992, the largest being a 7.2. Ninety-five people were injured and property in the county sustained considerable damage.[24]
In 2010, a6.5 magnitude earthquake struck offshore, 33 mi (53 km) west ofEureka, resulting in only minor injuries and some structural damage to houses and utilities, and no fatalities reported.[25]
In 2022, a6.4 magnitude earthquake centered approximately 10 miles (16 km) from Ferndale caused damage, especially in Rio Dell.[26]
The coastal zone of the county experiences very wet, cool winters and dry, mild foggy summers. In the winter, temperatures range from highs of 40–59 °F (4–15 °C) to lows of 32–49 °F (0–9 °C). Coastal summers are cool to mild, with average highs of 60–69 °F (16–21 °C) and frequent fog. Coastal summer temperatures range from highs of 64–70 °F (18–21 °C) to lows of 46–55 °F (8–13 °C). In the populated areas and cities near the coast, the highest temperatures tend to occur at locations just a few miles inland from Eureka and Arcata, in towns like Fortuna, Rio Dell, and smaller unincorporated communities located somewhat further away from Humboldt Bay. In these locations summer highs are 70–75 °F (21–24 °C). The coastal zone experiences a number of frosty nights in winter and early spring, though snowfall and hard freezes are rare. Coastal winters are cool and wet. Winter rainstorms are frequent, with averages from 30 to 100 inches (760 to 2,500 mm) a year, depending upon elevation.
Inland areas of the county also experience wet, cool winters. Snowfall is common at elevations over 3,000 ft (910 m) throughout the winter months, and is deep enough at higher elevations to have inspired the opening of a small ski lift operation (now defunct) on Horse Mountain, nearWillow Creek, for several decades in the late 20th century. Summer displays the sharpest difference between the coastal and inland climates. Inland regions of Humboldt County experience highs of 80–99 °F (27–37 °C) depending on the elevation and distance from the ocean. Occasional summer highs of 100 °F (38 °C) are common in eastern and southern parts of the county including Orleans, Hoopa, Willow Creek, Garberville, Honeydew, and inland river valleys.
Average daily maximum and minimum temperatures for warmest and coldest months in selected settlements of Humboldt County[28]
Humboldt County, California – Racial and ethnic composition Note: the US Census treats Hispanic/Latino as an ethnic category. This table excludes Latinos from the racial categories and assigns them to a separate category. Hispanics/Latinos may be of any race.
As of the2000 census, the population of Humboldt County was 126,518. As of that census, there were 51,238households in Humboldt County, and thepopulation density was 35 people per square mile (14 people/km2). By 2006, the population was projected to have increased to 131,361 by the California Department of Finance.[52] There were 55,912 housing units at an average density of 16 units per square mile (6.2 units/km2).[citation needed] The racial makeup of the county was 84.7%White, 0.9%Black orAfrican American, 5.7%Native American, 1.7%Asian, 0.2%Pacific Islander, 2.5% fromother races, and 4.4% from two or more races. In 2017, 11.7% of the population wereHispanic orLatino according to the United States Census Bureau. 13.3% were ofGerman, 10.7%Irish, 10.3%English, 7.4%American and 5.7%Italian ancestry according toCensus 2000. 92.1% spokeEnglish and 4.6% spokeSpanish as their first language.
There were 51,238 households, out of which 28.5% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 43.1% weremarried couples living together, 11.8% had a female householder with no husband present, and 40.2% were non-families. 28.9% of all households were made up of individuals, and 9.2% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.39 and the average family size was 2.95.
In the county, the population was spread out, with 23.2% under the age of 18, 12.4% from 18 to 24, 27.4% from 25 to 44, 24.5% from 45 to 64, and 12.5% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 36 years. For every 100 females there were 97.7 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 95.6 males.
The median income for a household in the county was $31,226, and the median income for a family was $39,370. Males had a median income of $32,210 versus $23,942 for females. Theper capita income for the county was $17,203. About 12.9% of families and 19.5% of the population were below thepoverty line, including 22.5% of those under age 18 and 7.2% of those age 65 or over.
Humboldt County is known for its impressive redwood trees,[53] and many acres of private redwood timberland make Humboldt the top timber producer in California. The lush river bottoms adjacent to the ocean produce rich, high-quality dairy products. Somewhat further inland, the warmer valleys have historically produced abundant apples and other fruit. More recently vineyards have been planted in the Trinity, Klamath, Mattole and upper Eel river areas.
On May 26, 2020, deputies with the Humboldt County Sheriff's Office Marijuana Enforcement Team (MET) served one search warrant to investigate illegal cannabis cultivation in the Weitchpec area. Approximately 18,690 growing cannabis plants and 818 pounds (371 kg) of cannabis bud were destroyed.[55]
As part of theEmerald Triangle, Humboldt County is known for its cultivation ofcannabis, estimated to be worth billions of dollars.[56][57]Proposition 215 allows patients and caregivers who are given a doctor's recommendation to legally (State level only) grow up to 99 plants in Humboldt County.[58][59] However, in the years before Prop 215 (early 1970s – late 1980s), Humboldt County saw a large migration of the Bay Areacounter-culture to the region. Many came looking to purchase cheap land, and ended up growing marijuana to pay for their land. Especially around Garberville and Redway, the rural culture and hippie scene eventually collaborated to create a rural hippie community in which marijuana became the center of the economy and the culture. Many people prospered by producing marijuana for California and other states because of its reputation for quality.[60] A Redway radio station, KMUD, in the past has issued warnings and alerts to the region with information on whereabouts of law enforcement on their way to raid marijuana gardens.[61][60]
TheCampaign Against Marijuana Planting is the multi-agency law enforcement task force managed by the California Department of Justice, formed with the prime purpose of eradicating illegal cannabis production in California. The operations began in the late 1970s, named the Northern California Sinsemilla Strike Force in 1979, but the name CAMP became used after its official establishment in 1983. While the influence of CAMP in Humboldt County has waned with decriminalization of marijuana, there is a renewed interest at the state level regarding valid growing permits and environmental concerns. As a result, CAMP is today still used as a policing body, in accordance with the DEA.[62] Yearly CAMP reports, published by the California Department of Justice,Bureau of Narcotic Enforcement (BNE) are available online through Cal Poly Humboldt's Special Collections. Starting in 1983, the annual reports detail the organizational structure and names of individual participants, a summary of the season's activities, tactics, and mention of special successes, trends and hazards.[62]
County officials and the industry have encountered challenges in the transition from an illegal, underground economy to legal recreational cannabis sales that began in California in 2018.[63]
As of 2023, the county has the largest cannabis farming industry in the Emerald Triangle. While the largest legal pot farm in the county was 8 acres (3.2 ha), a 2021 survey found the median pot farm sito be as 0.22 acres (0.09 ha).[64]
TheSequoia Park Zoo is the oldest zoo in California operating on a 7 acres (2.8 ha) facility operated by the City of Eureka in 60 acres (24 ha) Sequoia Park.[80]
TheClarke Historical Museum in Eureka, displays North Coast regional and cultural history in the repurposed Historic Register Bank of Eureka building.
The Ferndale Repertory Theatre is the county's oldest theater company; it has been in operation since 1972 at the Hart Theater building in Ferndale.[82]
TheHumboldt Crabs, founded in 1945, are the oldest continuously operated summer collegiate, wood-bat baseball team in the country.[83]
Election audits in the county since 2008 have used a distinctive system which hasspread elsewhere. They scan all ballots and release a file of the images with a digital signature, so candidates and the public can recount to find if the official totals are correct. They also release software to let the public tally the images electronically.[87] The first time they did this they found the official software omitted 200 ballots.[88][89][90][91]
From 1920 to 1984, the county was a noted bellwether area, voting for the national winner of every Presidential election. Since 1988, Humboldt has swung heavily to theDemocratic Party at thePresidential andcongressional levels, and is now one of the most Democratic areas in the state outside the Bay Area and Southern California. The last Republican presidential candidate to win a majority in the county wasRonald Reagan, a Californian, in1984.[93]
In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Humboldt also had a substantial number of people affiliated with theGreen Party, but that number has declined in recent years; however, theGreen Party has had its best performance by presidential and gubernatorial candidates of any county in the United States in Humboldt County, withJill Stein gaining her largest county-level number of votes in Humboldt in 2016.[citation needed]
United States presidential election results for Humboldt County, California[94]
In 2018, Humboldt County was featured in the Netflix documentaryMurder Mountain which highlighted the county's marijuana industry, violent crime andmissing person cases.[95]
As of 2022, Humboldt County ranked fourth out of California's 58 counties in missing adults per capita.[96] (See table below)
Humboldt County's locally produced television stations, NBC stationKIEM and PBS stationKEET, are based in Eureka. KIEM produces the only local TV newscast and KEET is the only PBS station in the region. Since 2017, CBS affiliateKVIQ has been alow-powered station operated as part of aduopoly with KIEM, sharing the same studios.
Fox affiliateKBVU, asemi-satellite ofKCVU, is based in Chico and ABC affiliateKAEF, a semi-satellite ofKRCR-TV, is based in Redding. In previous decades all major networks had production capacity in Eureka.
Community broadband networks andpublic, educational, and government access (PEG)cable TV channels provide air time for local voices onAccess Humboldt.[136] Cable TV channels are carried bySuddenlink Communications[137] and local programs are provided online through the Community Media Archive.[138] The Digital Redwoods initiative of Access Humboldt is developing local networks to meet comprehensive community needs, including public, education and government purposes.[139]
Redwood Transit System providesintercity service to and within communities between Trinidad and Garberville, including Manila, King Salmon, Field's Landing, Loleta, Fernbridge and Fortuna. HTA also offers service between McKinleyville or Arcata and Willow Creek and anexpress bus between Arcata and College of the Redwoods when classes are in session.
Eureka Transit Service, operated in the City of Eureka, provides local service on four scheduled routes (one hourheadway) in Eureka and its adjacent unincorporated communities. Connections can be made to the Redwood Transit System at several places in Eureka.
Arcata and Mad River Transit System, operated by the City of Arcata with funding from Cal Poly Humboldt. A&MRTS provides fixed route local bus service on two scheduled routes (one hour headway) in Arcata and an additional route between the Valley West Neighborhood and the university when classes are in session.
The city ofBlue Lake and theBlue Lake Rancheria operates the Blue Lake Rancheria Transit Authority.[140] This provides fixed route intercity transit bus service (one hour headway) between Arcata and the Blue Lake RancheriaIndian Reservation andcasino and local service within the city of Blue Lake.
Amtrak Thruway bus has stops in many towns in the region, including Eureka, Arcata, and Fortuna. These stops are not managed by Amtrak and therefore have no services beyond serving passengers. Full service is only provided at the train station inMartinez, near San Francisco.
Arcata-Eureka Airport is located in McKinleyville (north of Arcata). Commercial flights are available. Other general aviation airports are located at Dinsmore, Garberville, Kneeland, Murray Field (Eureka), Samoa Field and Rohnerville (Fortuna).
Additionally the following films were shot in Ferndale: the science fiction horror cult filmShe Demons (1958),[189] the award-winning short filmNonnie & Alex (1995),[190] and the comedy-dramaKingdom Come (2001).[191]
In the bookLolita by Vladimir Nabokov there is a possible pun using the county's name (Humboldt) in connection to the main character's name (Humbert Humbert). This appears on page 108: "With the help of a guidebook I located [The Enchanted Hunters inn] in the secluded town of Briceland." This 'secluded town' could very well be a reference to the unincorporated Briceland of Humboldt County, making The Enchanted Hunters in 'Humboldt Land', continuing the novel's grotesque fairy-tale veneer.[194]
^Neil G. Sugihara, Jan W. Van Wagtendonk, Kevin E. Shaffer, JoAnn Fites-Kaufman, Andrea E. Thode (2006)Fire in California's Ecosystems, University of California Press, 596 pages.ISBN0-520-24605-5.
^Thompson, Jerry (March 10, 2012).Cascadia's Fault. Counterpoint Press. p. 352.ISBN978-1582438245."The towns of Eureka and Arcata were built on top of it..." (the accretionary wedge).
^abcdefghijklmnopqU.S. Census Bureau. American Community Survey, 2011 American Community Survey 5-Year Estimates, Table B02001.U.S. Census website . Retrieved October 26, 2013.
^abU.S. Census Bureau. American Community Survey, 2011 American Community Survey 5-Year Estimates, Table B03003.U.S. Census website . Retrieved October 26, 2013.
^abU.S. Census Bureau. American Community Survey, 2011 American Community Survey 5-Year Estimates, Table B19301.U.S. Census website . Retrieved October 21, 2013.
^abU.S. Census Bureau. American Community Survey, 2011 American Community Survey 5-Year Estimates, Table B19013.U.S. Census website . Retrieved October 21, 2013.
^abU.S. Census Bureau. American Community Survey, 2011 American Community Survey 5-Year Estimates, Table B19113.U.S. Census website . Retrieved October 21, 2013.
^abU.S. Census Bureau. American Community Survey, 2011 American Community Survey 5-Year Estimates.U.S. Census website . Retrieved October 21, 2013.
^U.S. Census Bureau. American Community Survey, 2011 American Community Survey 5-Year Estimates, Table B01003.U.S. Census website . Retrieved October 21, 2013.
^abMarijuana Research Collection, Series: CAMP Reports collection =. Arcata, California: Cal Poly Humboldt Special Collections, Cal Poly Humboldt University.
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