| Huayna Potosí | |
|---|---|
 Huayna Potosí nearEl Alto | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 6,088 m (19,974 ft) |
| Prominence | 1,352 m (4,436 ft)[1] |
| Parent peak | Ancohuma |
| Coordinates | 16°15′45″S68°09′13.5″W / 16.26250°S 68.153750°W /-16.26250; -68.153750 |
| Geography | |
  Huayna Potosí Location in Bolivia | |
| Location |  Bolivia |
| Parent range | Andes |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | (First ascent by Europeans): 1919 by Rudolf Dienst and O. Lhose (Germany)[2][3][4] |
| Easiest route | straightforward glacier climb |
Huayna Potosí is a mountain inBolivia, located nearEl Alto and about 25 km north ofLa Paz in theCordillera Real.
Huayna Potosí is the closest high mountain toLa Paz. Surrounded by high mountains, it is roughly 15 miles due north of the city, which makes this mountain the most popularclimb in Bolivia. The normal ascent route is a fairly straightforwardglacier climb, with somecrevasses and a steep climb to thesummit. However, the other side of the mountain—Huayna Potosí West Face—is the biggest face in Bolivia. Several difficult snow and ice routes ascend this 1,000-meter-high face.
The first ascent of thenormal route was undertaken in 1919 by Germans Rudolf Dienst and Adolf Schulze. Some climbing books report this mountain as the "easiest 6,000er in the world", but this claim is debatable. The easiest route entails an exposed ridge and sections of moderately steep ice, with aUIAA rating ofPD. There are many 6,000 m mountains that are easier to climb in terms of technical difficulty. Perhaps therefore, the main reason Huayna Potosí has been referred to as the easiest 6,000 m climb is that the elevation gain fromtrailhead to summit is less than 1,400 m; with easy access from La Paz. Since La Paz is at 3,640 m, climbers have an easier timeacclimatizing.
In 1877 a group of six German climbers tried to climb Huayna Potosí for the first time. Without proper equipment and with little practical information, they set off toward the unclimbed peak. Their unsuccessful attempt met with tragedy. Four climbers died at an altitude around 5,600 m; the remaining two managed to retreat in deteriorating conditions, but died by exhaustion just after finding their way to the Zongo Pass. 21 years later, on 9 September 1898, an expedition of Austrian climbers attempted the mountain ascension again but after five days spent at 5,900 m they were forced to descend. Finally, in 1919 the Germans R. Dienst and O. Lhose reached the south summit (marginally higher than the north summit) climbing the mountain on the east face on a route that later would become the current normal route, with some variants.[5][6][7]
 | This sectiondoes notcite anysources. Please helpimprove this section byadding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged andremoved.(July 2024) (Learn how and when to remove this message) |
The normal route to climb Huayna Potosí is a straightforward climb on glacier. Following this route the mountain can be climbed in two daily stages. Climbers generally take a4×4 up the valley on a gravel road fromEl Alto taking about two hours to reach a car park at 4,700 m, Zongo Pass (16°17′15″S68°07′47.6″W / 16.28750°S 68.129889°W /-16.28750; -68.129889). Where abase camp is established. There is a recently established hut here. Staff are usually happy to book walk ins if they have rooms available, and a reduced price can be negotiated outside of the peak season.
From the hut here it is a 1–3 hour hike up to the high camp at 5,200 m (16°16′32″S68°08′16.6″W / 16.27556°S 68.137944°W /-16.27556; -68.137944) on thesnow line (Time taken depends greatly on acclimatization and fitness). This camp is called locally Campo Argentino and consists of a number of areas of leveled rocks suitable for pitching tents. As of 2006, there was a refuge at the high camp where spartan lodging was available for a fee.
Most climbers begin their summit attempt between midnight and 3 am. Fit and well acclimatized climbers rise and leave later, overtaking other groups during the climb, and can reach the summit in around 3–4 hours, but people frequently take twice that time. The route is usually clearly visible between thepenitentes, and follows the main glacier up directly (across thebergschrund and directly up a ridge) or along anarête on the right. Following that it curves behind the mountain when viewed from Zongo pass. The final approach is fairly exposed, either directly to the summit, or along the summit ridge. The summit is small and frequently has a pronouncedcornice, reducing usable space.
The entire climb from the high camp takes between 8 and 12 hours. Well acclimatised parties climb the mountain directly from the hut at Zongo Pass and in this case the whole climb takes most of the day.
Morning sunshine causes the snow to become less stable for walking, and increases avalanche risk from 8 am onwards. The views on a clear morning from the summit are remarkable – the mountain is far higher than anything else anywhere nearby, and the Cordillera Real,Lake Titicaca, La Paz, and part of theAltiplano they reside on are all visible. Until early 2004 there was aguest book for summitting climbers to sign. Unfortunately this overhang collapsed in mid-2006 leaving the original metal container protruding out of the summit ridge hanging above the city of La Paz below.
| This sectiondoes notcite anysources. Please helpimprove this section byadding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged andremoved.(July 2024) (Learn how and when to remove this message) |
In addition to the normal route, a large variety of routes (some of them very technical) to the two summits exist.
