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Huangjiu

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Chinese alcoholic beverage

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Huangjiu
A glass of Shaoxing wine, a variety of huangjiu
Simplified Chinese黄酒
Traditional Chinese黃酒
Hanyu Pinyinhuángjiǔ
Literal meaningyellow wine
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu Pinyinhuángjiǔ
Southern Min
HokkienPOJhông-chiú
An example of the Huadiao jiu
A dessert made ofNu'er hong andKuei Hua Chen Chiew Cocktail Jelly

Huangjiu (Chinese:黃酒;lit. 'yellow wine') is a type of Chineserice wine (mijiu) most popular in theJiangnan area.Huangjiu is brewed by mixing steamedgrains includingrice,glutinous rice ormillet with as starter culture, followed bysaccharification andfermentation at around 13–18 °C (55–64 °F) for fortnights. Its alcohol content is typically 8% to 20%.

Huangjiu is usuallypasteurized,aged, and filtered before its final bottling for sale to consumers. The maturation process can be complicated but important for the development of the layers of flavors and fragrance. A few brands of premium gradehuangjiu could have been aged for up to 20 years. Ashuangjiu's name suggests, its typical color is typically light yellow and orange, but it can in fact range from clear to brown. Many famoushuangjiu brands promote the quality of water used in brewing[1][2] in their advertising, and some consider it to be the most important ingredient.[3]

The drink is commonly consumed warm, as the richness from the flavor compounds are released better when warm. In summer, it is popular to drink sweethuangjiu chilled or on ice.Liaojiu (料酒) is a type ofhuangjiu used in cooking, an example of this being theliaojiu-type ofShaoxing rice wine. Major producers ofhuangjiu includemainland China andTaiwan.[2]

History

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Huangjiu in Chinese society had perhaps the same level of influence asbeer in the European societies throughout history. Archeology has established that ancient Chinese people once brewed some form of alcohol similar tobeer in China, however with the invention of the brewing method usingqu,huangjiu rapidly replaced the prototypic beer in ancient China and beer-like beverages fell out of fashion as the ancient Chinese drinkers preferred tastes ofhuangjiu. As beer was completely forgotten in China until the 19th century, when the Germans reintroduced a brewery in Qingdao (then romanized as Tsingtao) which later became the producer of today's famousTsingtao beer,huangjiu has always been the nation's favorite type of brewed alcoholic beverage (whereas baijiu has been the nation's favorite spirit or liquor).

The earliest form ofhuangjiu was supposedly devized byDu Kang during the reign ofShaokang of theXia. Dukang was subsequently deified as theChinesegod of wine. His son Heita is sometimes said to have accidentally inventedZhenjiang vinegar when his forgetfulness allowed a vat to spoil.[4]

Today,huangjiu has a great presence throughout China, especially in theJiangnan area. Most well-knownhuangjiu varieties includeGuyue longshan,Kuaijishan andTapai fromShaoxing,Huiquan jiu fromWuxi.

Huangjiu varieties

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Huangjiu is produced widely throughout China, in a variety of styles, which reflect the wine's sugar content, the starter/innoculent (orqu) used, and its production method.

Dryness/Sweetness

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This is the formal classification for all Chinese wines. There are five categories:dry,semidry,semisweet,sweet, andextra-sweet.[5]

  • Dry (Gan, 乾): with sugar content no greater than 1%. This type of rice wine has the lowest fermentation temperature. An example of this kind isYuanhongjiu (元紅酒, literally "Champion's Red Wine"), a specialty ofShaoxing, so-named because being successful in the imperial examination is a great cause for celebration and fame (red) and as well, traditionally the wine jars are painted red.
  • Semidry (Ban Gan, 半乾): with sugar content between 1% and 3%. This type ofhuangjiu can be stored for a long period of time and encompasses most of the varieties ofhuangjiu that are exported from China. An example of this variety isJiafanjiu (加飯酒, literally "Added Rice Wine"), a variation on theYuanhongjiu that involves adding more rice in fermentation. Thejiafanjiu is traditionally used for ceremonies, such as child birth, engagement, and funerals.
  • Semisweet (Ban Tian, 半甜): with sugar content between 3% and 10%. The longer the semisweethuangjiu is stored, the darker its color becomes. This variety ofhuangjiu cannot be stored for long periods of time. An example of this kind isShanniangjiu (善酿酒, literally "Best Made Wine"), a specialty ofShaoxing which partly uses vintageYuanhongjiu instead of water.
  • Sweet (Tian, 甜): with sugar content between 10% and 20%. An example of this variety is Feng Gang Jiu (封缸酒, literally "Conceal Earth Jar Wine"). In comparison to previous types ofhuangjiu, sweethuangjiu can be manufactured all year round when using traditional production methods.
  • Extra-sweet (Nong Tian, 浓甜): with sugar content equal or greater than 20%. An example of this variety is Xiang Xue Jiu (香雪酒, literally "Fragrant Snow Wine").

Starter/Inoculant

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  • Xiaoqu (小曲 / 小麴;pinyin: xiǎo qū, "small yeast"): Wines inoculated using rice cultured withRhizopus, yeast, and other microorganisms. The mixture generates less heat, so they are mostly used in southern China.
  • Daqu (酒曲 / 酒麴;pinyin: jiǔ qū, "alcohol yeast"): Wines inoculated using rice cultured withAspergillus oryzae and yeast. Almost all popular alcoholic drinks in China belong to this type.
  • Hongqu (红曲 / 紅麴;pinyin: hóng qū, "red yeast"): Wines that are flavored and colored withMonascus purpureus or other red rice molds of the genusMonascus.

Production methods

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  • Tangfan (烫饭 / 燙飯;pinyin: tàng fàn, "warm rice"): Thesteamed rice used to make the wine is cooled in the open air until it is still relatively warm before processing.
  • Liangfan (凉饭 / 凉飯;pinyin: liáng fàn, "cold rice"): The steamed rice used to make the wine is quenched with cold water before further processing. The unfiltered mash for this wine is sometimes eaten as a dessert or used as an inoculant for other Chinese wines.
  • Jiafan (加飯 or 餵飯;pinyin: jiā fàn or wèi fàn, "fed rice"): Steamed rice is continuously fed into a fermenting mixture (up to three times), which produces a sweeter wine.
  • Fortified:Baijiu is added to the fermenting mash, which increases the concentration of alcohol in the mash and halts the fermentation process. This leaves a significant quantity of unfermented sugars, thus producing an especially sweet tasting wine.

Types

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Some of the most popularhuangjiu include:

  • Mijiu (米酒; pinyin: mǐjiǔ) is the generic name for Chinese fermentedrice wine, similar to Japanesesake. It is generally clear, and is used for both drinking and cooking.Mijiu intended for cooking is generally of lower grade and often contains 1.5%salt. The alcohol content by volume of mijiu is typically 12–19.5%.
  • Fujian Laojiu(福建老酒)
  • Su-shi Laojiu (蘇式老酒, "Su-style old wine"):Huiquan jiu is iconic of this type ofhuangjiu.
  • Fujian Nuomijiu (福建糯米酒; pinyin: Fújiàn nuòmǐ jiǔ): made by adding a long list of expensive Chinese medicinal herbs toglutinous rice and a low alcohol distilled rice wine. The unique brewing technique uses another wine as raw material, instead of starting with water. The wine has an orange-red color. Alcohol content by volume: 18%.[6]
  • Jiafan jiu (加飯酒)
  • Huadiao jiu (花雕酒; pinyin: huādiāo jiǔ; lit. "flowery carving wine"), also known asnu'er hong (女兒紅; pinyin: nǚ'ér hóng, lit. "daughter red"): a variety of huangjiu that originates fromShaoxing, in the eastern coastal province ofZhejiang. It is made ofglutinous rice and wheat. This wine evolved from the Shaoxing tradition of buryingnu'er hong underground when a daughter was born, and digging it up for the wedding banquet when the daughter was to be married. The containers would be decorated with bright colors as a wedding gift. To make the gift more appealing, people began to use pottery with flowery carvings and patterns.Huadiao jiu's alcohol content is 16% by volume.[7]
  • Shaoxing jiu (紹興酒; pinyin: Shàoxīng jiǔ) It is commonly used both for drinking and in Chinese cooking (as liaojiu, with added herbs and spices). The reddish color of these wines is imparted byred yeast rice. One prominent producer of Shaoxing wine is Zhejiang Guyue Longshan Shaoxing Wine Co., Ltd. (古越龍山) of Shaoxing, Zhejiang.[8][9] It is not uncommon for some varieties of Shaoxing wine to be aged for 50 years or more.[10]
  • Honglu jiu (紅露酒; pinyin: hóng lù jiǔ; lit. "red wine") is produced in Taiwan, while Shaoxing wine is made inFujian Province. In the 1910s, three businessmen produced Chinese red rice wine aged longer than other manufacturers in Taiwan by using higher ratio of glutinous rice content. They branded their top and the second grade products as老紅金雞, or literaryGolden Rooster, and老紅酒黃雞, or literaryYellow Rooster. After World War II, Yellow Rooster was renamed as Hong lu jiu.[11][12][13]
  • Liaojiu (料酒; pinyin: liàojiǔ; lit. "ingredient wine") is a lower grade ofhuangjiu widely used inChinese cuisine as a cooking wine. Often it is sold flavored and seasoned with various herbs, such ascloves,star anise,cassia,black cardamom,Sichuan pepper,ginger,nutmeg, and salt.

Production

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Ingredients

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The three main ingredients of Chinese alcoholic beverages are the grain, water, and qu. Other ingredients may also be added to alter the color, taste, or medicinal properties of the final product.

During their creation, storage, or presentation, Chinese alcoholic beverages may be flavored or seasoned. Use of fruit is rare, particularly compared withKorean wines, butmedicinal herbs, flowers, and spices are much more common. Well-known examples includecassia wine (flavored withsweet osmanthus blossoms and consumed during theMid-Autumn Festival) andrealgar wine (dosed with a small amount ofarsenic sulfide and consumed during theDragon Boat Festival).

Grains

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The earliest grains domesticated in China weremillet in the north andrice in the south. Both are still employed in production of alcohol. Modern production also employswheat,barley,sorghum, andcoixseed.

Forhuangjiu, the grains are degermed and polished of theirbran. They are then soaked and acidified with the aid oflactobacillus or through the addition oflactic acid into the soaking liquid. (Acidification is done to discourage the growth of other microbes on the grains, which can spoil the resulting liquor by creating undesired flavors in it or rendering it poisonous.) This process produces a taste andmouth-feel distinct from other forms ofrice wine.

Water

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Water hydrates the grains and enablesfermentation. ThepH and mineral content of the water also contribute to the flavor and quality of the drink. Many regions are famous not only for their alcoholic beverages but also for the flavor and quality of their water sources. Emphasis is placed on gathering the cleanest water directly from springs or streams or from the center of lakes, where the water has been exposed to the least amount of pollutants. Water should be low iniron andsodium, with a higher proportion ofmagnesium andcalcium ions as part of its total mineral content.

Starter

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Main article:

Thefermentation starter, known in Chinese as Jiuqu or simply as Qu, is usually a dried cake of flour cultured with variousmolds,yeasts andbacteria. In the production ofhuangjiu it is crushed and added to inoculate the cereal substrate to initiate fermentation into liquor. The various molds and filamentous yeasts found in Qu exude enzymes that digest the substrate into sugars that are in turn, fermented into alcohol by other yeasts and bacteria.[14]

There are three main types of starters:

  • Xiaoqu (小曲 / 小麴) or Small Starter, a small cake (10-100g) of rice flour (or if wheat flour, termed Maiqu), cultured with microbes and incubated for a short period at relatively cool temperatures. The dominant starter forhuangjiu.[14]
  • Daqu (大曲 / 大麴) or Large Starter, a large cake (1–5 kg) of wheat, wheat and pea, or barley and wheat flour, cultured with microbes and incubated for a longer period at relatively high temperatures. The dominant starter for Baijiu, but often used inhuangjiu in combination with Xiaoqu. Its use will significantly alter the organoleptic qualities of the ensuing wine.[15]
  • Hongqu (红曲 / 紅麴) or Red Starter, are dried, mold-encrusted rice grains cultured with microbes, The dominant mold,Monascus purpureus, creates a red pigment which colors the ensuing liquor in shades or red to purple. Often used in conjunction with Xiaoqu to make red cereal wines.[16]

Preparation

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Seed mash

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Prior to the actual brewing of the liquor, another small batch of grain is prepared to produce the "seed mash" (酒母,jiǔmǔ). Seed mash is produced by soaking and acidifying glutinous rice and other grains, then steaming them on frames or screens for several minutes. This cooks the grains and converts their starch into agelatinized form that is more easily utilized by the starter culture. The inoculation temperature of the steamed grains is tightly controlled as it alters the flavor character. This is usually done when the grain has been doused with cold water and cooled to between 23 and 28 °C, which is considered the optimal initial fermentation temperature for the seed mash.

After the little starter is added, it is allowed around two days to begin thesaccharification, acidification, andfermentation of the grains. Inoculation with the first starter partially liquifies the steamed grains, which is the signal to add the big starter as well as more water to form a thickslurry. This slurry is carefully stirred by a brewmaster to aerate and maintain an optimal level of oxygen andcarbon dioxide in the mixture, as well as to maintain an even temperature throughout the fermenting mass. The slurry is periodically stirred over the course of a week. The stirred slurry is then allowed to go through a more thorough fermentation for approximately one month, following which thepH drops to around 3.4 and the alcohol content rises to approximately 15%. This is the seed mash that will be used to brew the main mash.

Main mash

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More soaked and acidified rice is prepared in the same fashion as in the seed mash. The grain is then either cooled with cold water or left out on a flat surface, depending on the type ofhuangjiu being produced, as the cooling method alters the flavor and mouth-feel of the resulting drink. The seed mash, an additional big starter, and fresh water is then mixed into this grain in large, glazedearthenware pots up to 2 meters (6 ft 7 in) in diameter and height. The mixture is pounded on the sides of the pots.

Aging

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Similar to the production of Japanesesake,saccharification and fermentation usually happen in the same mash concurrently, as the seed mash and starter act on the cooked rice. The mixture is then left to mature in earthenware jars for a length of time from several months to several decades before being bottled and sold.

Variations

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Northern breweries often use three big starters rather than an initial little starter. Large factories typically employ air blowers to cool the second batch of grain rather than using cold water or leaving it out to cool.

The brewery may also separate thesaccharification and fermentation of the grain, similar tobrewing. If this is desired, the seed mash is typically not used, since a main mash will never be produced. Instead, a mash of water, steamed glutinous rice, and other grains isinoculated with rice that has already been cultivated with the moldAspergillus oryzae or molds of the genusRhizopus and certain strains ofLactobacillus. When mixed into the mash, the molds cultivate the mixture and convert thestarch in the grains intosugar andlactic acid. This sweet and slightly sour liquid is drained and reserved, while additional water (and sometimes alsomalt) is added to the mixture. The process is repeated until the grains are exhausted. Yeast is then added to this liquid in order to convert the sugars in the liquid toalcohol.

Gallery

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  • Bottles of Shaoxing wine (紹興酒)
    Bottles of Shaoxing wine (紹興酒)
  • Bottles of Huadiao jiu (花雕酒)
    Bottles of Huadiao jiu (花雕酒)
  • A bottle of Guyue Longshan (古越龍山) Shaoxing wine
    A bottle of Guyue Longshan (古越龍山) Shaoxing wine
  • Various products by Guyue Longshan
    Various products by Guyue Longshan
  • A glass of Shaoxing wine
    A glass of Shaoxing wine

See also

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References

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  1. ^Huang, Faxin; Cai, David Tiande; Nip, Wai-Kit (2006). Y. H. Hui (ed.).173 Chinese Wines: Jiu. Introductions to Chinese culture. Vol. 4. Taylor & Francis. pp. 353–404.ISBN 9781420026337.OCLC 70288640. RetrievedOctober 24, 2017.{{cite book}}:|work= ignored (help)
  2. ^abLi, Zhengping (2011).Chinese Wine. Cambridge University Press.ISBN 9780521186506.OCLC 769489216.
  3. ^Huang, Cai & Nip 2006, p. 376, 397.
  4. ^Chen Fusheng; et al. (2009),"Cereal Vinegars Made by Solid-State Fermentation in China",Vinegars of the World, Springer, pp. 243 ff,Bibcode:2009viwo.book.....S,ISBN 9788847008663.
  5. ^"sxwo". Archived fromthe original on March 20, 2006. RetrievedMay 17, 2006.
  6. ^"Double Lantern Fujian Glutinous Rice wine". Archived fromthe original on March 4, 2007. RetrievedOctober 24, 2017.
  7. ^Huang, Cai & Nip 2006, p. 391.
  8. ^Shaoxingwine.comArchived 2007-08-10 at theWayback Machine
  9. ^Huang, Cai & Nip 2006, p. 394.
  10. ^TVB show Natural Heritage 天賜良源 episode 1 January 30, 2008. Shaoxing wine exclusive.
  11. ^"The history of Hong lu jiu" (in Traditional Chinese). Archived fromthe original on September 25, 2015. RetrievedOctober 24, 2017.
  12. ^For wine made with red yeast rice, see alsozh:红曲酒.
  13. ^Yoshida, Hajime (August 1997)."Taiwan no bēshu, shōkōshu, kōroshu" [Mijiu, Shaoxing wine, and Hong lu jiu in Taiwan].Nihon Jōzōkyōkai shi [Journal of the Brewing Society of Japan] (in Japanese).92 (8):579–587.doi:10.6013/jbrewsocjapan1988.92.579.ISSN 0914-7314.OCLC 5178903264.
  14. ^abHuang, Cai & Nip 2006, p. 376-378.
  15. ^Huang, Cai & Nip 2006, p. 366-371.
  16. ^Huang, Cai & Nip 2006, p. 378-382.

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