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Herringbone (cloth)

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Fabric woven in a herringbone twill weave

Donegal tweed (an example of herringbone)

The Swiss Kampfanzug 57/70 field uniform was made from a twill material

Herringbone, also calledbroken twill weave,^[1] describes a distinctive V-shapedweaving pattern usually found intwill fabric. It is distinguished from a plainchevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zigzag. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles theskeleton of aherring fish.^[2] Herringbone-patternedfabric is usuallywool, and is one of the most popular cloths used forsuits andouterwear.^[3]Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern.

Fatigue uniforms made from cotton in this weave were used by several militaries during and afterWorld War II; in US use, they were often calledHBTs.^[4]^[5]

History

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Various herringbone weaves have been found in antiquity:

A pair of woolen leggings found in the permafrost of the Italian-Austrian Alps have a 2:2 herringbone weave, dating to 800 to 500 BC.
A dark blue cloth with a 2:2 herringbone weave was found at Murabba'at Cave in Israel, from the Roman period.^[6]^[7]
A textile with a 2:2 herringbone weave was found at Pompeii, from 79 AD.^[6]
An illustration of a cloth having a herringbone weave from Antinoöpolis in Greece from 130 AD.^[8]
The Falkirk Tartan, a wool 2:2 herringbone tartan from around 240 AD.^[9]^[10]
Similar fabric fragments found atVindolanda, south of Hadrian's Wall in England.

References

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^Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey (1988).Fairchild's dictionary of fashion. New York: Fairchild Publications.ISBN 0870056352.OCLC 17932099.
^"The RL Style Guide | Glossary | Herringbone".Ralph Lauren. Archived fromthe original on 2011-10-05. Retrieved2008-11-24.
^Fashion Institute of Technology (2006).""The Tailor's Art," Menswear Fabrics - A Glossary".The Museum at FIT. Archived fromthe original on 2013-06-05. Retrieved2008-11-24.
^Stanton, Shelby (1992). "Summer Work and Service Uniforms".U.S. Army Uniforms of the Korean War. Stackpole Books. pp. 86–98.ISBN 0811729524.
^Robinson, Aaron (2009-08-19)."Storming Normandy in a World War II Jeep".Car and Driver. Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. Retrieved2019-04-29.
^^a ^bFulbright, Diana (2010). "Akeldama repudiation of Turin Shroud omits evidence from the Judean Desert". In Paolo Di Lazzaro (ed.).Proceedings of the International Workshop on the Scientific Approach to the Acheiropoietos Images(PDF). Frascati:ENEA.ISBN 978-88-8286-232-9. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 6 February 2011.
^Shamir, Orit (2015)."A burial textile from the first century CE in Jerusalem compared to roman textiles in the land of Israel and the Turin Shroud".SHS Web of Conferences.15. EDP Sciences: 00010.doi:10.1051/shsconf/20151500010.ISSN 2261-2424.
^Tyrer, John (December 1981)."Looking at the Turin Shroud as a Textile"(PDF).Textile Horizons. pp. 20–23. Archived from the original on 2011-11-18. Retrieved2023-12-01.{{cite magazine}}: CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown (link)
^Bailey, Geoff P. (2019)."The Falkirk Tartan"(PDF).A History of Falkirk in 10 ½ Objects. Falkirk Local History Society.
^"Tartan Details - Falkirk".The Scottish Register of Tartans.Archived from the original on 2023-01-18. Retrieved2023-02-01.

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Fabric

Types

Woven	Abacá cloth (Medriñaque) Aertex Armazine Almerían silk Barathea Barkcloth Batiste Bedford cord Bengaline Beta cloth Bombazine Brilliantine Broadcloth Buckram Bunting Burlap Byrd Cloth C change Calico Cambric Canvas Chambray Capilene Cedar bark textile Challis Char cloth Charmeuse Charvet Cheesecloth Chiffon Chino Chintz Cloqué Cloth of gold Cordura Corduroy Cotton duck Coutil Crêpe Cretonne Denim Dimity Donegal tweed Dornix Dowlas Drill Drugget Eolienne Flannel Foulard Fustian Gabardine Gauze Gazar Georgette Ghalamkar Gingham Grenadine Grenfell Cloth Grosgrain Habutai Haircloth Harris tweed Herringbone Himroo Hodden Huckaback Irish linen Jamdani Kerseymere Khādī Khaki drill Kijōka-bashōfu Kente cloth Lamé Lawn Linsey-woolsey Loden Longcloth Mackinaw Madapollam Madras Moleskin Muslin Nainsook Nankeen Ninon Oilskin Organdy Organza Osnaburg Ottoman Oxford Paduasoy Percale Perpetuana Pongee Poplin Rakematiz Rayadillo Rep Ripstop Russell cord Saga Nishiki Samite Sateen Satin Saye Scarlet Seerhand muslin Seersucker Sendal Serge Scrim Shot silk Stuff Taffeta Tais Taiwan floral fabric Tartan Ticking Toile Tucuyo Tweed Twill Ultrasuede Vegetable flannel Ventile Vinyl coated polyester Viyella Voile Wadmal Waffle Wigan Whipcord Zephyr Zorbeez
Figured woven	Brocade Camlet Damask Lampas Songket Rinzu
Pile woven	Baize Chenille Corduroy Crimplene Fustian Mockado Moquette Plush Polar fleece Terrycloth Velours du Kasaï Velvet Velveteen Zibeline
Nonwoven	Felt Cedar bark
Knitted	Boiled wool Coolmax Machine knitting Milliskin Jersey Velour
Netted	Bobbinet Carbon fibers Lace Mesh Needlerun net Ninon Tulle