Haute couture[a] is the creation of exclusive custom-fittedhigh-endfashion design. The termhaute couture generally refers to a specific type of uppergarment common inEurope during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from theskirt andsleeves. Beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, Paris became the centre of a growing industry that focused on making outfits from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable of sewers—often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.[3][4]Couture is also commonly used on its own as an abbreviation ofhaute couture, referring to the same concept in spirit.[5]
The English termhaute couture wasborrowed fromFrench, where it literally means'highsewing' or'high dressmaking'.[6] Its first recorded use in English was in 1908, in theArnold Bennett novelThe Old Wives' Tale.[7]
In France, the termhaute couture is protected by law and is defined by theParis Chamber of Commerce based inParis. TheFédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode is defined as "the regulating commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible to be true haute couture houses". Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the labelhaute couture.[8] The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne is an association of Parisian couturiers founded in 1868 as an outgrowth ofmedievalguilds that regulate its members with regard to counterfeiting of styles, dates of openings for collections, number of models presented, relations with press, questions of law and taxes, and promotional activities. Formation of the organisation was brought about byCharles Frederick Worth. An affiliated school was organized in 1930 called L'Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. The school helps bring new designers to help the "couture" houses that are still present today. Since 1975, this organization has worked within theFédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.[9]
In response to theNazi occupation of Paris, more rigorous criteria for the termhaute couture were established in 1945.[10] To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the termhaute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture must follow specific rules:[8]
The term is also used loosely to describe all high-fashion, custom-fitted clothing, whether it is produced in the fashion capitals ofLondon,New York City,Paris, andMilan. In either case, the term can refer to the fashion houses orfashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-settingfashions or to the fashions created. The termhaute couture has also taken on further popular meanings referring to non-dressmaking activities, such as production of fine art and music.[11]
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Haute couture can be referenced back as early as the 17th century.[12] Industry and consumption were legally protected throughguild statutes that required strict adherence to quality, quantity, etc. Women dressmakers, known ascouturières, attained guild privileges in 1675. Their guild statutes made it so these women acquired the rights to make clothing for women and children, while male tailors retained the right to make clothing for men and boys over the age of 8. Within this empire, thecouturières' work ranged from simple mending, tomodes (fashions). They performed darning and alterations, and also made fine dresses of luxurious fabric for members of the royal family and aristocracy. Seamstresses were only one part of this complex network and process, and included domestic manufacture, imported products, and work alongside guilds such as the lacemakers, ribbonmakers, fashion merchants, embroiderers, pin and needle peddlers, etc.[13] Seamstresses did not operate public shops, unlike tailors, but instead relied on word of mouth and connections to procure high-end clientele.[14]
18th century France witnessed a dramatic rise in clothing consumption, and scholars have documented a "clothing revolution" that occurred between 1700 and 1789. This was characterised by the increased size and value of wardrobes across the country, even among the middling and working classes. The fashion industry sprang to life to meet increasing demand.[15]
Rose Bertin, the French fashion designer toQueen Marie Antoinette, can be credited for bringing fashion andhaute couture to French culture.[16] Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered dresses in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models.
As railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories. French fitters anddressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe, and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations.[17][citation needed]
Acouturier (French:[ku.ty.ʁje]) is an establishment or person involved in the clothing fashion industry who makes original garments to order for private clients. A couturier may make what is known ashaute couture.[18] Such a person usually hires patternmakers and machinists for garment production, and is either employed by exclusive boutiques or is self-employed.[citation needed]
ThecouturierCharles Frederick Worth is widely considered the father ofhaute couture as it is known today.[19][20] Although born inBourne, Lincolnshire, England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry.[4] Revolutionising how dressmaking had been previously perceived, Worth made it so the dressmaker became the artist of garnishment: a fashion designer. While he created one-of-a-kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers, he is best known for preparing a portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at theHouse of Worth. Clients selected one model, specified colours and fabrics, and had a duplicate garment tailor-made in Worth's workshop. Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of theready-to-wearclothing industry, which was also developing during this period.
Following in Worth's footsteps wereCallot Soeurs,Patou,Paul Poiret,Madeleine Vionnet,Mariano Fortuny,Jeanne Lanvin,Chanel,Mainbocher,Schiaparelli,Cristóbal Balenciaga, andChristian Dior. Some of these fashion houses still exist today, under the leadership of modern designers.
In the 1960s, a group of youngprotégés who had trained under more senior and established fashion designers including Dior and Balenciaga left these establishedcouture houses and opened their own establishments. The most successful of these young designers wereYves Saint Laurent,Pierre Cardin,André Courrèges,Ted Lapidus, andEmanuel Ungaro. Japanese native and Paris-basedHanae Mori was also successful in establishing her own line.
Lacroix is one of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century. Other new houses have includedJean Paul Gaultier andThierry Mugler. Due to the high expenses of producinghaute couture collections, Lacroix and Mugler have since ceased theirhaute couture activities.[21]
For all these fashion houses, custom clothing is no longer the main source of income, often costing much more than it earns through direct sales; it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready-to-wear clothing and relatedluxury products such asshoes andperfumes, andlicensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company. It is their ready-to-wear collections that are available to a wider audience, adding a splash of glamour and the feel ofhaute couture to more wardrobes.[22] Fashion houses still create custom clothing for publicity, for example providing items to celebrity events such as theMet Gala.[23]
Recent guest members have included the fashion houses ofCathy Pill,Gerald Watelet [fr],Nicolas Le Cauchois [fr][25] andMa Ke (Wuyong).[26] In the 2008/2009 Fall/Winter Haute Couture week,Emanuel Ungaro showed as an Official Member.
Textiles refer to the fabric or medium being used by designers to create an article of clothing.History of silk originated in Neolithic China within the Yangshao culture (4th millennium BC), where the "Silk worm" was discovered. The Asian elite began using silk in high fashion. As time went on, silk began to be traded leading to the creation of the "Silk Road", which was a boost to China's economy.[27] The value of silk is distinguished by the form of its use, such as it being used as currency.[28] Silk fabric is composed of fibers that are produced by thesilkworm mainly found in China.[28] There are various kinds of silks, used by designers in the textile world, such asdupioni, China,brocade, Jacquard, and satin silk.[29] These various kinds of silks are often used to produce certain styles of clothing. For example,Chiffon silk is used to create draping because this silk is a thinner silk than others; it allows for easier movement and flow of the fabric, thus creating an easier process for draping.[29]
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from animals such assheep,camels,camelids,goats, or other hairymammals.[30] Wool was first discovered and used mainly for protection against cold weather.[31] Not all types are acceptable or considered "fine" wool. For instance, fine wool is found only within four breeds of sheep, the other fifteen are not considered to be "fine".[29] Dying wool is a delicate procedure because wool easily absorbs colour, so it is important to be cautious in order not to ruin the wool.[29] Some of the higher-end wools arealpaca,angora wool,mohair,cashmere wool,camel hair, andvicuña wool; each of these wools has a different texture and softness.[29]
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