Gyeongju (Korean:경주,pronounced[kjʌ̹ŋ.dʑu]), historically known asSeorabeol (서라벌,pronounced[sʰʌ̹.ɾa̠.bʌɭ]), is a coastal city in the far southeastern corner ofNorth Gyeongsang Province, South Korea.[3][4] It is the second largest city by area in the province afterAndong, covering 1,324 km2 (511 sq mi) with a population of 264,091 people as of December 2012[update].[3][5] Gyeongju is 370 km (230 mi) southeast ofSeoul,[6] and 55 km (34 mi) east ofDaegu.[7] The city bordersCheongdo andYeongcheon to the west,Ulsan to the south andPohang to the north, while to the east lies the coast of theSea of Japan.[3] Numerous low mountains—outliers of theTaebaek range—are scattered around the city.[8]
Gyeongju was the capital of the ancient kingdom ofSilla (57 BC – 935 AD), which ruled about two-thirds of the Korean peninsula at its height between the 7th and 9th centuries, for close to one thousand years.Later Silla was a prosperous and wealthy country,[9] and Gyeongju[10] was[when?] the fourth largest city in the world.[11][12][13][14] A vast number of archaeological sites and cultural properties from this period remain in the city. Gyeongju is often referred to as "the museum without walls".[15][16] Among such historical treasures,Seokguram grotto,Bulguksa temple,Gyeongju Historic Areas andYangdong Folk Village are designated asWorld Heritage Sites byUNESCO.[17][18] The many major historical sites have helped Gyeongju become one of the most populartourist destinations in South Korea.[7][19]
The city of Gyeongju was united with the nearby rural Gyeongju County in 1995 and is now an urban–rural complex.[20] It is similar to 53 other small and medium-sized cities with a population under 300,000 people in South Korea.[21] As well as its rich historical heritage, Gyeongju today is affected by the economic, demographic, and social trends that have shaped modernSouth Korean culture. Tourism remains the major economic driver, but manufacturing activities have developed due to its proximity to major industrial centers such as Ulsan and Pohang. Gyeongju is connected to the nationwide rail and highway networks, which facilitate industrial and tourist traffic.[22][23][24]
The early history of Gyeongju is closely tied to that of theSilla kingdom, of which it was the capital. Gyeongju first enters non-Korean records asSaro-guk, during theSamhan period.[25] Korean records, probably based on the dynastic chronicles of Silla, record that Saro-guk was established in 57 BCE, when six small villages in the Gyeongju area united underBak Hyeokgeose. As the kingdom expanded, it changed its name to Silla.[26] During the Silla period, the city was called "Seorabeol" (this toponym would eventually evolve into a Korean word for "capital city" as inSeoul),[25] "Gyerim" (lit. Rooster's forest), or "Geumseong" (lit. City of Gold or Metali.e. Impenetrable Fortress).[27]After theunification of the peninsula up toTaedong River[28] in 668 AD, Gyeongju became the center of Korean political and cultural life.[29] The city was home to the Silla court and the great majority of the kingdom's elite. Its prosperity became legendary, and was reported as far away asPersia according to the 9th century bookThe Book of Roads and Kingdoms.[30] The historical textSamguk yusa give the city's population in its peak period[when?] as 178,936 households,[27] suggesting that the total population was almost one million.[31][32][33] Many of Gyeongju's most famous sites date from thisUnified Silla period, which ended in the beginning of 10th century byGoryeo (918–1392).[25][26]
A portrait of the last king of Silla,King Gyeongsun (r. 927–935). After his surrender toKing Taejo, Gyeongju lost its status as capital city.
In 940, the founder of Goryeo,King Taejo, changed the city's name to "Gyeongju",[34] which literally means "Congratulatory district".[35] In 987, as Goryeo introduced a system in which three additional capitals were established in politically important provinces outside Gaegyeong (nowadaysKaesong), and Gyeongju was designated as "Donggyeong" ("East Capital"). However, that title was removed in 1012, the third year ofKing Hyeongjong's reign, due to political rivalries at that time,[34][36] though Gyeongju was later made the seat ofYeongnam Province.[25] It had jurisdiction over a wide area, including much of central eastern Yeongnam,[25] although this area was greatly reduced in the 13th century.[34] Under the subsequentJoseon (1392–1910) dynasties, Gyeongju was no longer of national importance, but remained a regional center of influence.[25] In 1601, the city ceased to be the provincial capital.[37]
Over these centuries, the city suffered numerous assaults. In the 13th century,Mongol forces destroyed a nine-story wooden pagoda atHwangnyongsa.[25][38] During theJapanese invasions of Korea, the Gyeongju area became a heated battlefield,[25] and Japanese forces burned the wooden structures atBulguksa.[39][40] Not all damage was due to invasions, however. In the early Joseon period, a great deal of damage was done to Buddhist sculptures onNamsan byNeo-Confucian radicals, who hacked arms and heads offstatuary.[41]
In the 20th century, the city remained relatively small, no longer ranking among the major cities of Korea.[42] During the early 20th century, many archaeological excavations were conducted, particularly inside the tombs which had remained largely intact over the centuries.[43] A museum, the forerunner of the present-dayGyeongju National Museum, was inaugurated in 1915 to exhibit the excavated artifacts.[44]
Gyeongju emerged as a railroad junction in the later years of theJapanese occupation, as theDonghae Nambu Line andJungang line were established in preparation for theSecond Sino-Japanese War and to exploit the rich resources of the eastern part of the Korean peninsula.[45][46] Following liberation in 1945, Korea was plunged into turmoil, and Gyeongju was no exception. Returnees from abroad were numerous; a village for them was constructed in present-dayDongcheon-dong.[47] In a period marked by widespread conflict and unrest, the Gyeongju area became particularly notorious for the level ofguerrilla activity in the mountains.[48]
Despite the outbreak of theKorean War in 1950, most of Gyeongju was spared from the fighting, and remained under South Korean control throughout the conflict. However, for a brief time in late 1950 portions of the city stood on the front lines, as North Korean forces pushed thePusan Perimeter southward from Pohang.[49]
In the 1970s, Korea saw substantial industrial development, much of it centered in the Yeongnam region of which Gyeongju is a part.[50][51] ThePOSCO steel mill in neighboring Pohang commenced operations in 1973,[52] and the chemical manufacturing complex in Ulsan emerged in the same year.[53] These developments helped to support the emergence of Gyeongju's manufacturing sector.[22]
Gyeongju lies in the southeastern corner of North Gyeongsang Province, and is bounded by the metropolitan city ofUlsan on the south. Within the province, its neighbors includePohang on the north,Cheongdo County on the southwest, andYeongcheon on the northwest.[3] Gyeongju is located about 50 kilometers (31 mi) north ofBusan.[4] To the east, it has no neighbor but the sea.[3]
Low mountains are widespread throughout Gyeongju. The highest of these are theTaebaek Mountains, which run along the city's western border. Gyeongju's highest point,Munboksan (문복산), is 1,015 meters (3,330 ft) abovesea level. This peak lies inSannae-myeon, on the border withCheongdo.[56] East of the Taebaek range, other western peaks such as Danseok Mountain lie within theJusa subrange.[57] The city's eastern peaks, includingTohamsan, belong to the Haean Mountains andDongdae Mountains.[58][59]
Principal mountains and drainage patterns of Gyeongju. Mountains of 500 to 700 m (1,600 to 2,300 ft) are in green, those taller than 700 m (2,300 ft) in violet. The rest three in gray are under 500 m (1,600 ft).
Gyeongju's drainage patterns are shaped by these lines of mountains.[8] The Dongdae Mountains divide a narrow foothills area on their east, and various internal river systems to the west. Most of the city's interior is drained by the smallHyeongsan River, which flows north from Ulsan and meets the sea at Pohang Harbor. The Hyeongsan's chief tributaries include the Bukcheon and Namcheon, which join it inGyeongju Basin.[8]The southwestern corner of Gyeongju, on the far side of the Taebaek range, drains into theGeumho River, which then flows into theNakdong. A small area of the south, just west of the Dongdae range, drains into theTaehwa River, which flows into the Bay of Ulsan.[60][61]
The Gyeongju coastline runs for 36.1 kilometers (22.4 mi) betweenPohang in the north andUlsan in the south.[62] There are no islands or large bays, only the smallindentations made by the small streams flowing off the Dongdae ridgeline. Because of this, the city has no significant ports, though there are 12 small harbors.[63] One such harbor in Gyeongju's southeast corner is home to the Ulsan base of the National Maritime Police. This base is responsible for security over a wide area of South Korea's east-central coast.[64][65][66]
Gyeongju has a cooler version of ahumid subtropical climate (Köppen:Cfa). Due to its coastal location, Gyeongju has a slightly milder climate than the more inland regions of Korea. In general, however, the city's climate is typical of South Korea. It has hot summers and cool winters, with amonsoon season between late June and early August. As on the rest of Korea's east coast, autumntyphoons are not uncommon. The average annual rainfall is 1,091 millimeters (43.0 in), and the average annual high temperatures range from 8.6–31.1 °C (47–88 °F).[67]
Gyeongju's historic city center lies on the banks of the Hyeongsan in Gyeongju Basin. This lowlying area has been subject to repeatedflooding throughout recorded history, often as a result of typhoons. On average, chronicles report a major flood every 27.9 years, beginning in the 1st century.[68] Modern flood control mechanisms brought about a dramatic reduction in flooding in the later 20th century. The last major flood occurred in 1991, when the Deokdong Lake reservoir overflowed due toTyphoon Gladys.[69]
Climate data for Gyeongju (2011–2020 normals, extremes 2010–present)
The executive branch of the government is headed by a mayor and vice-mayor. As in other South Korean cities and counties, the mayor is elected directly, while the vice-mayor is appointed.[72] As of 2019, the mayor is Joo Nak-young, who was elected on June 13, 2018, in thelocal elections.[73][74] He is Gyeongju's fifth mayor to be directly elected, the sixth to preside over the city in its present form, and the 31st mayor since 1955.[75] Like most heads of government in theYeongnam region, he is a member of the conservativeLiberty Korea Party.[76][77][78]
The legislative branch consists of the Gyeongju City Council, with 21 members as of 2009.[79][80] The present City Council was formed from the merger of the old Gyeongju City Council with the Wolseong County Council in 1991. Most subdivisions of Gyeongju elect a single member to represent them in the council, butAngang-eup is represented by two members because of its large population, and two of the representatives serve combined districts composed of twodong. Like the mayor, the council members were last elected in 2006, except for a small number elected in more recentby-elections.
The central administration is composed of a City Council committee, five departments, two subsidiary organs, a chamber (the auditor), and six business offices. The five departments are the departments of Planning and Culture, Autonomous Administration, Industry and Environment, Construction and Public Works, and the National Enterprise Committee; these oversee a total of 29 subdivisions. The two subsidiary organs are the Health Care Center and Agro-technology Center; these belong directly to the central administration and have a total of 4 subdivisions. In addition, there are 23 local administrative subdivisions. Each of these subdivisions has a local office with a small administrative staff.[81] As of December 2008, the city government employed 1,462 people.[82]
The city is divided into 23 administrative districts: 4eup, 8myeon, and 11dong.[83][84] These are the standardsubdivisions of cities and counties in South Korea. Thedong or neighborhood units occupy the area of the city center, which was formerly occupied by Gyeongju-eup.Eup are typically substantial villages, whereasmyeon are more rural.[62][85]
The city's boundaries and designation changed several times in the 20th century. From 1895 to 1955, the area was known as Gyeongju-gun ("Gyeongju County"). In the first decades of the century, the city center was known as Gyeongju-myeon, signifying a relatively rural rea. In 1931, the downtown area was designated Gyeongju-eup, in recognition of its increasingly urban nature. In 1955, Gyeongju-eup became Gyeongju-si ("Gyeongju City"), the same name as today, but with a much smaller area. The remainder of Gyeongju-gun became "Wolseong County." The county and city were reunited in 1995, creating Gyeongju City as it is today.[25]
*Figures based on resident registration figures made available by local government offices. For more detailed source information, seeSubdivisions of Gyeongju.
When the Silla kingdom reached the peak of its development, Gyeongju was estimated to have a million residents, four times the city's population in 2008.[3][32] In recent years, Gyeongju has followed the same trends that have affected the rest of South Korea. Like the country as a whole, Gyeongju has seen its population age and the size of families shrink. For instance, the mean household size is 2.8 people. Because this has fallen in recent years, there are more households in the city as of 2008 (105,009) than there were in 2003, even though the population has fallen.[86]
Like most of South Korea's smaller cities, Gyeongju has seen a steady drop in population in recent years. From 2002 to 2008, the city lost 16,557 people.[87] This is primarily due to the migration of workers seeking employment in the major South Korean cities. In 2007, about 1,975 more people moved away from the city each year than moved in.[88] During the same period, births exceeded deaths by roughly 450 per year, a significant number but not enough to offset the losses due to migration.[89]
Gyeongju has a small but growing population of non-Koreans. In 2007, there were 4,671 foreigners living in Gyeongju. This number corresponds to 1.73% of the total population, more than double the figure from 2003. The growth was largely in immigrants from other Asian countries, many of whom are employed in the automotive parts industry. Countries of origin whose numbers have risen include thePhilippines, China,Taiwan,Indonesia, andVietnam. The number of residents from Japan, the United States, and Canada fell significantly in the 2003–2007 period.[90]
The city has a distinctivedialect which it shares with northern portions ofUlsan. This dialect is similar to the generalGyeongsang dialect, but retains distinctive features of its own. Some linguists have treated the distinctive characteristics of the Gyeongju dialect as vestiges of theSilla language. For instance, the contrast between the local dialect form "소내기" (sonaegi) and the standard "소나기" (sonagi, meaning "rainshower") has been seen as reflecting the ancientphonemic character of the Silla language.[91]
Gyeongju is the main destination in South Korea for visitors interested in the cultural heritage of Silla and the architecture of Joseon. The city has 31National Treasures, andGyeongju National Museum houses 16,333 artifacts.[92] There are four broad categories of relics and historical sites:tumuli and their artifacts; Buddhist sites and objects; fortresses and palace sites; and ancient architecture.Prehistoric remains includingMumun pottery have been excavated in central Gyeongju, in the Moa-ri and Oya-ri villages of theCheonbuk-myeon district, and in the Jukdong-ri village of theOedong district.Dolmens are found in several places, especially inGangdong-myeon and Moa-ri.Bronze Age relics found in Angye-ri village of Gangdong-myeon, Jukdong-ri and Ipsil-ri villages of Oedong-eup and graveyards in the Joyang-dong district represent theSamhan confederacy period of around the 1st century BC to the 3rd century AD.[93]
There are 35 royal tombs and 155 tumuli in central Gyeongju, and 421 tumuli in the outskirts of the city.[94] Silla burial mounds built after the period of the Three Kingdoms are found in central Gyeongju, including tumuli in the districts of Noseo-dong, Nodong-dong, Hwangnam-dong, Hwango-dong and Inwang-dong. Western Gyeongju has the tomb ofKing Muyeol in Seoak-dong, nearby tumuli in Chunghyo-dong and the tomb ofKim Yu-sin. The tombs ofQueen Seondeok,King Sinmun,King Hyogong andKing Sinmu are at the base ofNamsan mountain while the tombs ofKing Heongang,King Jeonggang,King Gyeongmyeong andKing Gyeongae are on the slopes of the mountain. In addition to the tombs, tumuli have been found surrounding Namsan mountain and in the western part of Geumgang mountain. Artifacts excavated from the tombs ofGeumgwanchong (gold crown tomb),Seobongchong (western phoenix tomb),Cheonmachong (heavenly horse tomb) and northern and southern parts of Tomb No. 98 are good examples of Silla culture.[93]
Gyeongju has produced notable individuals throughout its history. As the capital of Silla, Gyeongju was a center of culture in its heyday.[32] Notable Gyeongju residents in the Silla period included most of the kingdom's leading figures, not only rulers but scholars such asSeol Chong andCh'oe Ch'i-wŏn,[95][96][97] and generals likeKim Yu-sin, the leader of theHwarang warriors.[98] The city continued to contribute totraditional Korean thought in subsequent dynasties. Relatives of Ch'oe Ch'i-wŏn such asCh'oe Ŏn-wi andCh'oe Hang played an important role in establishing the structures of early Goryeo.[34][99][100] In the Joseon period, Gyeongju joined the rest of Gyeongsang in becoming a hotbed of the conservativeSarim faction. Notable Gyeongju members of this faction included the 15th century intellectualYi Eonjeok. He has been enshrined in theOksan Seowon since 1572.[101][102][103] In modern times, the city produced writers such asKim Dongni andPak Mok-wol, both of whom did a great deal to popularize the region's culture,[42][104][105] as well asChoe Jun, a wealthy businessman who established theYeungnam University Foundation.[106]
Some Korean family clans trace their origins to Gyeongju, often to the ruling elites of Silla. For example, theGyeongju Kim clan claims descent from the rulers of later Silla.[107] TheGyeongju Park clan [ko] andGyeongju Seok clans [ko] trace their ancestry to Silla's earlier ruling families. These three royal clans played a strong role in preserving the historical precincts of Gyeongju into modern times.[108] TheGyeongju Choi andGyeongju Lee clans [ko] also trace their ancestry to the Silla elites. Prominent members of the Gyeongju Lee clan include Goryeo period scholarYi Che-hyŏn, and Joseon period scholarsYi Hwang andYi Hang-bok. A contemporary notable figure from the Gyeongju Lee clan isLee Byung-chul, the founder ofSamsung Group.[109] However, not all Gyeongju clans date to the Silla period; for instance, the Gyeongju Bing clan was founded in the early Joseon period.[110][111]
The city remains an important centre ofKorean Buddhism. East of the downtown area liesBulguksa, one of South Korea's largest Buddhist temples; nearby isSeokguram, a famed Buddhist shrine. Traditional prayer locations are found on mountains throughout Gyeongju. Such mountains includeNamsan near the city center,[112] Danseok-san and Obong-san in the west, and the low peak of Hyeong-san on the Gyeongju-Pohang border.[113] Namsan in particular is often referred to as "the sacred mountain" due to the Buddhist shrines and statues which cover its slopes.[114] In addition, Gyeongju is the birthplace ofCheondoism, an indigenous religion to Korea based onKorean shamanism,Taoism and Korean Buddhism, with elements drawn fromChristianity. The religion evolved fromDonghak (lit. East learning) disciplines established byChoe Je-u. His birthplace ofYongdamjeong, located inHyeongok-myeon, is regarded as a sacred place to followers of Cheondogyo.[103][115][116]
The cuisine of Gyeongju is generally similar to other areas ofGyeongsang Province: spicy and salty.[117][118][119] However, it has distinctive tastes according to region and several local specialties known nationwide.[119] The most famous of these is "Gyeongju bread" or "Hwangnam bread", a red-bean pastry first baked in 1939 and now sold throughout the country.[120][121]Chalboribbang, made with locally producedglutinous barley, is also a pastry with a filling ofred bean paste.[122][123] Local specialties with a somewhat longer pedigree includebeopju, a traditional Korean liquor produced by the Gyeongju Choe inGyo-dong. The brewing skill and distill master were designated asImportant Intangible Cultural Properties by South Korea government.[124][125][126]
Ssambap, a rice dish served with vegetable leaves, various small side dishes and condiments
Other local specialities includessambap,haejangguk, andmuk.[127]Ssambap refers to a rice dish served with vegetable leaves, variousbanchan (small side dishes) and condiments such asgochujang (chili pepper paste) orssamjang (a mixture ofsoybean paste andgochujang) to wrap them together. Mostssambap restaurants in Gyeongju are gathered in the area of Daenuengwon or Grand Tumuli Park.[128]Haejangguk is a kind ofsoup eaten as ahangover cure, and means "soup to chase a hangover".[129] A street dedicated tohaejangguk is located nearGyeongju National Museum, where 20haejangguk restaurants are gathered to serve the Gyeongju-stylehaejangguk. The soup is made by boilingsoybean sprout, slicedmemilmuk (buckwheat starch jelly), sourkimchi (pickled vegetables) andgulfweed in a clear broth of dried anchovy andAlaska pollack.[130]
The east district of Gyeongju,Gampo-eup town, is adjacent to the sea, so fresh seafood andjeotgal (fermented salted seafood) are abundant. There are over 240 seafood restaurants in Gampo Harbor offering various dishes made with seafood caught in the sea, such ashoe (raw fish dishes),jeonboktang (an abalone soup), grilled seafood and others.[131][132][133]
2008 Gyeongju Citizens' Athletics Festival held at Gyeongju Public Stadium
As of 2007, Gyeongju had two stadiums, two gymnasiums, two tennis courts, one swimming pool and others as public sport facilities as well as various registered private sports venues.[134][135] Many of public sport facilities are located inHwangseong Park with an area of 1,022,350 m2 (11,004,500 sq ft) including a luxuriant pine trees forest.[136][137] The site was originally the location of the artificial forest of Doksan which was established forfeng shui purposes during theSilla period. It was also used as a training ground forhwarang warriors and hunting spot for Silla kings, and was reported to beKing Jinpyeong's favorite location.[138][139] In 1975, Hwangseong Park was designated a "city neighborhood park" and it currently consists of the multi-purpose Gyeongju Public Stadium, Football Park (with seven football fields and one futsal field), and onegymnasium, as well as Horimjang field forgukgung or Korean traditionalarchery and assireum wrestling ring.[140] In addition, it contains a gateball field, an inline skating rink, jogging courses, and cycling roads.[141] The Gyeongju Public Stadium was completed in 1982[134] and can accommodate 20,000 people at capacity.[136]
Angang Field Hockey Stadium, located in the district ofAngang-eup, is home to Gyeongju City Hockey, which is one of four professional women'sfield hockey teams in South Korea.[142][143] The team was formed in 1994,[144] and is governed by the Sport and Youth Division of Gyeongju City.[145] Although not an initial successful team, Gyeongju City Hockey won the first trophies both at National Division Hockey Championships and National Sports Festival in 2000. In 2002, Gyeongju City Hockey took a first prize and three second prizes,[144] and in 2008, the team won the first prize at the 51st National Division Hockey Championships.[146]
The city plays host to two annualmarathon events. TheGyeongju International Marathon, held in October, garners elite level competition while the larger Gyeongju Cherry Blossom Marathon caters more for amateurfun runners. The Cherry Blossom Marathon has been held each year in Gyeongju since 1992, usually in April, to improve relations withJapan (a country with a long history of marathon running).[147] The race, mainly sponsored by Gyeongju and the district, attracted 13,600 participants in 2009 including about 1,600 foreigners.[148]
The economy of Gyeongju is diverse.[22][23] Although tourism is important to the economy, most residents work in other fields. Over 27,000 are employed in manufacturing compared to roughly 13,500 in the hospitality industry.The number involved in tourism has remained constant over recent years, while the manufacturing sector added about 6,000 jobs from 1999 to 2003.[149] The manufacturing sector is closely tied to nearby cities, utilizing Gyeongju's transit links withUlsan,Pohang, andDaegu.[22][24][150] As in Ulsan and Daegu the automotive parts industry plays an important role.[50] Of the 1,221 businesses incorporated in Gyeongju almost a third are involved in auto-parts manufacture.[151]
Fishing takes place in coastal towns, especially inGampo-eup in the city's northeast, with 436 registered fishing craft in the city.[63] Fishing industry in Gyeongju is generally in a declined status due to relatively inconvenient transport conditions and lacks of subordinate facilities.[23] Much of the catch from these boats goes direct from the harbor to Gyeongju's many seafood restaurants. Mainly,sauries, anchovies,rays are harvested and a small number ofabalone andwakame farming takes place. Local specialties includemyeolchijeot (fermented anchovy), abalone, wakame, and squid.[152]
Paddy fields in Gyeongju
Agriculture is still important, particularly in the outlying regions of Gyeongju. According to the 2006 statistical yearbook of Gyeongju, rice fields occupy an area of 169.57 km2 (65.47 sq mi), which is 70% of the total cultivated acreage of 24,359 km2 (9,405 sq mi). The remaining 74.02 km2 (28.58 sq mi) consists of fields under other crops and farmsteads. Crop production is centered in the fertile river basins near theHyeongsan River. The main crops are rice, barley, beans and corn. Vegetables such asradish andnapa cabbage and fruits are also important crops. Apples are mainly produced in the districts ofGeoncheon-eup,Gangdong-myeon andCheonbuk-myeon andKorean pear are cultivated in Geoncheon-eup andAngang-eup. The city plays a leading role in the domestic production ofbeef andmushrooms.Button mushrooms harvested in Geoncheon-eup are canned and exported.[22] The cultivated acreage and the number of households engaging in agriculture is however declining.[23]
A small amount ofquarrying activity takes place in the city, with 46 active mines and quarries in Gyeongju. Most are engaged in the extraction ofkaolin,fluorspar andAgalmatolite[153] and Kaolin is exported.[154]
As the capital of Silla, commerce and trading in Gyeongju developed early on.Samguk sagi has records on the establishment ofGyeongdosi (capital area market) in March, 490 duringKing Soji's reign, andDongsi (East Market) in 509, duringKing Jijeung's reign. In the 1830s, Gyeongju had five five-day markets which remained very active until the late 1920s. Due to its sizeGyeongju Bunaejang (Gyeongju village market) was referred to as one of the two leading markets in theYeongnam area, along withDaegu Bunaejang. Transportation developed in the late period of theJapanese occupation, as theJungang Line and theDaegu Line and the connecting route betweenPohang and the northwestern part of Japan were set up, leading to increasing population and developing commerce. After the 1960s, traditional periodic markets gradually transformed into regular markets as the city was flourishing. In periodic markets, agricultural and marine products, industrial products, living necessaries, wild edible greens, herbs, and cattle are mainly traded. As of 2006, Gyeongju had eight regular markets, nine periodic markets and the Gyeongju department store. Traditional periodic markets declined and have become token affairs these days.[22][23]
Gyeongju is a majortourist destination for South Koreans as well as foreign visitors. It boasts the 1000 years of Silla heritage with vast number of ancient ruins and archaeological sites found throughout the city,[29] which help to attract 6 million visiting tourists including 750,000 foreigners per year.[6] The city government has parlayed its historic status into a basis for other tourism-related developments such as conferences, festivals, and resorts.[155]
Much of Gyeongju's heritage are related to the Silla kingdom's patronage ofBuddhism. The grotto ofSeokguram and the temple ofBulguksa were the first Korean sites to be included on the UNESCOWorld Heritage List in 1995.[155][158] In addition, the ruins of the oldHwangnyongsa temple, said to have been Korean's largest, are preserved on the slopes ofTohamsan. Various Silla-era stone carvings of Buddhas andBodhisattvas are found on mountainsides throughout the city, particularly onNamsan.[155]
A significant portion of Gyeongju's tourist traffic is due to the city's promotion of itself as a site for various festivals, conferences, and competitions. Every year since 1962, the Silla cultural festival has been held in October to celebrate and honour the dynasty's history and culture. It is one of the major festivals of Korea.[159][160][161] It features athletic events, folk games, music, dance, literary contests and Buddhist religious ceremonies. Other festivals include the Cherry Blossom Marathon in April,[162] the Korean Traditional Liquor and Cake festival in March,[16] and memorial ceremonies for the founders of the Silla Dynasty and GeneralKim Yu-sin.[135]
There were 15 hotels includingHilton Hotel, Gyeongju Chosun Hotel, and 276 lodging facilities, and 2,817 restaurants in Gyeongju in 2006.[23]
Gyeongju's emerging tourist attraction is the shopping streetHwangnidan-gil. The address of Hwangnidan-gil is 1080, Poseok-ro, Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang Province.[163] There are about 400 stores,[164] including restaurants, cafes, bookstores, and gift shops. Hwangnidan-gil became popular through social networking sites, and neighboring Gyeongju's historical site is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The advantage of the Hwangnidan-gil is the result of voluntary efforts by merchants without help from local governments.[163]
Gyeongju Sinmun, a local newspaper company is housed in this building.
Gyeongju has two main local newspapers; theGyeongju Sinmun and theSeorabeol Sinmun.[166] Both are weekly newspapers providing news via online as well and their headquarters are located in the neighborhood ofDongcheon-dong.[167][168] The Gyeongju Sinmun was founded in 1989 and provides various news and critics on anything concerning Gyeongju.[169] Its online newspaper, Digital Gyeongju Sinmun opened in December, 2000 to provide live local news out of the limit as a weekly newspaper and to establish mutual information exchanges from Gyeongju locals. In 2001, Gyeongju Sinmun started to present Gyeongju Citizen Awards to people who try to develop the local industry and economy, culture and education, and welfare service. Since 2003, theWolseong Nuclear Power Plant headquarter co-hosts the awards with Gyeongju Sinmun.[170]
TheSeorabeol Sinmun was established in 1993,[171] however, from November 15, 2000, to November 10, 2005, its publication was stopped for financial difficulties after the 1997 Asian economic crisis had left a strong impact on the nationwide economy.[172] Since 2006, Seorabeol Sinmun presents Serabeol Awards to people having devouring to develop Gyeongju.[171][173]
Gyeongju is strongly associated with the education tradition ofHwarangdo ("Way of the Flower of Young Men") which was established and flourished during the Silla period. It is a military and philosophical code that offered the basis of training toHwarang, a military cadet of youths from the aristocratic class. The training equally emphasized practicing academic and martial arts based on Buddhism and patriotism. A number of Silla's greatest generals and military leaders such asKim Yu-sin were Hwarang who played a central role in Silla unification of the Korean peninsula. As Silla was integrated into the next ruling dynasty,Goryeo, the system declined and was officially disbanded in theJoseon period. However, the spirit and discipline were revived in the second half of the 20th century as a form of Korean martial arts with the same name.[180][181]
Formal education has a longer history in Gyeongju than anywhere else in South Korea. TheGukhak, or national academy, was established here in 682, at the beginning of theUnified Silla period.[182] Its curriculum focused on the Confucian classics for local officials.[29] After the fall ofSilla in the 10th century, theGukhak closed. However, due to Gyeongju's role as a provincial center under theGoryeo and earlyJoseon dynasties, the city was home to state-sponsored provincial schools (hyanggyo) under both dynasties such asGyeongju Hyanggyo. During the later Joseon dynasty there were severalseowon, or private Confucian academies, were set up in the city such asOksan Seowon andSeoak Seowon.[183]
The education system of Gyeongju is the same as elsewhere in the country. Schooling begins withpreschools; there are 65 in the city. This is followed by six years inelementary schools; Gyeongju has 46. Subsequently, students pass through three years ofmiddle school. There are 19 middle schools in Gyeongju. High school education, which lasts for three years, is notcompulsory, but most students attend and graduate from high school. Gyeongju is home to 21 high schools,[183] of which 11 provide specialized technical training. At each of these levels, there is a mix of public and private institutions. All are overseen by the Gyeongju bureau of North Gyeongsang's Provincial Office of Education.[184] Gyeongju is home to a school for thementally disabled, which provides education to students from preschool to adult age.[92]
Gyeongju is home to four institutions oftertiary education.[92]Sorabol College is a technical college in the district of Chunghyo-dong that offers majors specializing in tourism, leisure, health care and cosmetic treatments.[185][186]
Each of Gyeongju's three universities reflects the city's unique role.Dongguk andUiduk universities are Buddhist institutions,[187][188] reflecting that religion's link to the city.[189][190]Gyeongju University, formerly Korea Tourism University, is strongly focused on tourism, reflecting its importance in the region.[191]
According to the 2008 yearbook of Gyeongju, the total number of medical institutions was 224 with 3,345 beds, including two general hospitals, thirteen hospitals, 109 clinics, five nursing homes, forty two dental hospitals, twoKorean traditional medicine hospitals and 50 Korean traditional medicine clinics.[192] There are also twenty eight medical institutions related to Gyeongju Health Center affiliated to the Gyeongju City government.[92]
The two general hospitals are associated with two major universities in Gyeongju and nearbyDaegu. One is theDongguk University Gyeongju Hospital, located in the district of Seokjang-dong, which is affiliated with Dongguk University Medical School and Center. The Gyeongju Hospital was opened in a seven-story building in 1991 to provide Gyeongju locals with a quality medical service and train medical specialists in the region.[193] After various renovations the hospital currently has 24 departments including aradiationoncology center and 438 beds.[194] It is also assigned as a teaching and learning hospital and in partnership with Dongguk University Oriental Hospital.[195] The other general hospital is a branch ofKeimyung University, Dongsan Medical Hospital in Daegu. It is the successor of Gyeongju Christianity Hospital founded in 1962, and was reborn as the current general hospital in 1991. The Gyeongju Dongsan Hospital is located in the district of Seobu-dong and has 12 departments in a three-story building.[196]
A view ofHyeongsan River from Dong Bridge. The river is one of water sources of Gyeongju.
Water supply and sewage disposal are municipal services which are respectively handled by the Water Supply Office and Water Quality and Environment Office. Water comes from theHyeongsan River, the multi-purposeDeokdong Dam and several streams. The city is divided into seven water districts, with eight filtration plants and seven sewage treatment plants.[197] One of the sewage treatment plants, Angang Sewage Disposal Plant began operating in April 2005 by the co-investment of the governments of North Gyeongsang and Gyeongju with a fund of 44,300,000,000won to install facilities to prevent the pollution of theHyeongsan River, which is a main water source for Gyeongju andPohang residents. The plant is located on a spacious site with 39,000 m2 (420,000 sq ft) in Homyeong-ri,Gangdong-myeon in Gyeongju where nature friendly facilities provide recreational venues for the locals. Through 56.1 km (34.9 mi) of sewer pipes and 14pumping stations, the plant has a capacity of 18,000 tonnes ofdomestic sewage per day that comes fromAngang-eup, andGangdong-myeon. The facilities have high-powered disposal equipment developed by related industrial companies to maintain the discharged water at the first or second degree in quality, so that it is used asriver maintenance flow andagricultural water in case adrought occurs.[198]
The city had managed its own recycling service, but privatized it since July 1, 2009.[199]
Other utilities are provided by private entities or South Korean government-owned companies. Seorabeol City Gas, an affiliate ofGS Group, provides gas to the Gyeongju residents,[200] while, electrical power is supplied by the public enterprises,Korea Hydro & Nuclear Power via theWolseong Nuclear Power Plant. The plant is known for the only nuclear power plant operatingPHWRs (Pressurized Heavy Water Reactor) in South Korea[22] and supplies about 5% of South Korea's electricity.[201] The owner, Korea Hydro & Nuclear Power[202] began to build the Wolseong 1 in the districts ofYangnam-myeon,Yangbuk-myeon andGampo-eup in 1976. Since 1983, the power plant has been providing commercial service[202] and operating with the PHWRs that has a capacity of 678,000 kW. As the construction of each Wolseong 2, 3 and 4 with a capacity of 70,000 kW were completed respectively in 1997, 1998 and 1999, Wolseong Nuclear Power plant site has been successfully operating the four PHWRs plants.[22] New project, Sinwolseong No. 1 and No. 2 are currently under construction which is estimated to be completed until 2011–12.[203][204] TheWolseong Low and Intermediate Level Radioactive Waste Disposal Center, which treats and stores low and intermediate level radioactive waste from the local power plants,[205] is overseen and inspected by the Korea Institute of Nuclear Safety (KINS).[206]
The city lies at the junction of two minor lines operated by theKorean National Railroad. TheJungang Line runs from Seoul to Gyeongju and carries trains from theDaegu Line, which originates inDongdaegu.[23] In Gyeongju, the Jungang line connects to theDonghae Line which runs betweenBusan andYeongdeok.[23] TheGyeongbu Expressway, which runs from Seoul to Busan, passes through Gyeongju,[23] and Provincial Highway 68, aided by the South Korean government, connectsSeocheon inSouth Chungcheong Province to Gyeongju.[207] Additionally national highways such as Route 4,[208] 7,[209] 14,[210] 20,[211] 28,[212] 31,[213] and 35[214] crisscross the city. Since the city is a popular tourist destination, nonstop bus services are available from most major cities in South Korea.[215]
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