Grodno,[a] orHrodna,[b] is a city in westernBelarus. It is one of the oldest cities in Belarus.[3] The city is located on theNeman River, 300 kilometres (190 mi) fromMinsk, about 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) from theborder with Poland, and 30 kilometres (19 mi) from theborder with Lithuania. Grodno serves as the administrative center ofGrodno Region andGrodno District, though it is administratively separated from the district.[1] As of 2025,[update] the city has a population of 363,718.[1]
The modern city of Grodno, founded in 1127, originated as a small fortress and trading outpost, on the extreme northern end of the deeply penetrated Slavic peninsula into the lands of the Baltic tribal union of theYotvingians.[3] It was also a home to theDregoviches Slavic tribe.[3] It was a significant city in Black Ruthenia and later part of theGrand Duchy of Lithuania, which joined thePolish-Lithuanian Union in 1385. Grodno faced numerous invasions, most notably by theTeutonic Knights. The city was an important trade, commerce, and cultural center in thePolish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, and one of its royal residences. TheKings of Poland and Grand Dukes of Lithuania allowed the creation of a Jewish commune in 1389, and the city received its charter in 1441. Grodno was the site of two battles during theGreat Northern War.
Grodno has a rich history with various rulers and influences. In 1793, Grodno became the capital of the Grodno Voivodeship, but was annexed by Russia in 1795 afterThird Partition of Poland. The city had a significant Jewish population before the Holocaust. AfterWorld War I, it was briefly part of the Belarusian People's Republic and the Republic of Lithuania before being taken over by Poland. DuringWorld War II, it was occupied by theSoviet Union and later byNazi Germany. Since 1945, Grodno has been part of Belarus. Today, it has a diverse population, including Belarusians, Poles, and a small Jewish community. The city is known for its historical architecture, including theOld Grodno Castle, and is a center for Roman Catholicism and Polish culture in Belarus.
In Belarusian Classical Orthography (Taraškievica), the city is named asГорадня (Horadnia). InLatin, it was known asGrodna (-ae), in Polish asGrodno, in Lithuanian asGardinas, inLatvian asGrodņa, in German asGarten,[4][5] and inYiddish asגראָדנע (Grodne).
Before arrival of theEast Slavs to theGrodno Region in the 10th–11th centuries, the area was inhabited byBaltic tribeYotvingians, who were heavilyLithuanized in the 5th-7th centuries already and especially during the formation of the State ofLithuania in the 13th century, and subsequently for a long time Grodno and its area was a part of theEthnographic Lithuania (e.g. even in the 19th century the Lithuanian-inhabited areas were still nearby the present-day suburbs of Grodno city).[6] The modern city of Grodno originated as a small fortress and a fortified trading outpost maintained by theRurikidprinces on the border with the lands of the Baltic tribal union of the Yotvingians. The first reference to Grodno dates to 1005.[7]
The official foundation year is 1128. In this year Grodno was mentioned in theKievan Chronicle asGoroden,[8] and located at a crossing of numerous trading routes.[citation needed] The same chronicle also reports in the year 1183: 'That same year all of Goroden burned, including all the stone churches, from a flash of lightning and a clap of thunder in a thunderstorm.'[9]
Grodno became part of theGrand Duchy of Lithuania in the 13th century, and the local stronghold was rebuilt by Lithuanians.[10] PrinceDaniel of Galicia briefly captured the city in 1253 and once again attacked it in 1259.[10] In 1276, DukeTraidenis gave shelter in Grodno to Yotvingians fleeing theTeutonic Knights' massacre.[10] The city was unsuccessfully attacked by the Rus' princes and Tatars in 1277, then repeatedly attacked, with varying success, by the Teutonic Knights in 1283, 1296, 1306, 1311, 1312, 1328, 1361, 1363, 1373, 1375, 1377.[11] In 1358 a convention took place in Grodno on border disputes between Lithuania and the PolishDuchy of Masovia.[12]
Since 1385 Grodno formed part of thePolish–Lithuanian union. The famous Lithuanian Grand DukeVytautas was the prince of Grodno from 1376 to 1392, and he stayed there during his preparations for theBattle of Grunwald (1410). During theLithuanian Civil War of 1389–1392, the city was captured byWładysław II Jagiełło in 1390, and then by Vytautas in 1391, with Vytautas-alliedKonrad von Wallenrode committing a massacre of 15 Polish prisoners-of-war.[13] After theOstrów Agreement of 1392, Vytautas expelled the Teutonic Knights, who in revenge captured the city, burned the castle and took 3,000 prisoners.[13] The city was attacked one more time by the Teutonic Knights in 1402.[14] Since 1413, Grodno had been the administrative center of apowiat inTrakai Voivodeship. Polish King Władysław II Jagiełło often stopped in Grodno, including in 1414, 1416, 1418 and 1425.[15] In 1425, Polish-Teutonic talks concerning the borders took place there.[15]
To aid the reconstruction of trade and commerce, the grand dukes allowed the creation of aJewish commune in 1389. It was one of the first Jewish communities in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. In 1441 the city received its charter, based on theMagdeburg Law. In 1445,Casimir IV Jagiellon received a delegation fromKraków in Grodno announcing his election as king of Poland.[15]
During theNapoleonic Wars and fights for Polish liberation, in 1812, Polishuhlans of PrinceJózef Poniatowski entered Grodno, followed by the French led byJérôme Bonaparte.[18] The entry of the allied Polish and French troops was met with enthusiasm by the population, theAccession to the Confederation of the inhabitants of the Grodno district was announced,Napoleon'sname day was officially celebrated and an obelisk was erected in honour of the French.[19]
Grodno in the 1860s on a drawing byNapoleon Orda, seat of authorities of the underground Polish Grodno Voivodeship from theJanuary Uprising on the left
In 1833, following the unsuccessfulNovember Uprising, notable local Polish independence activist and insurgent Michał Wołłowicz washanged by the Russians, and the local Dominican gymnasium was seized by the Tsarist authorities.[20]
Local Poles took part in Polish national mourning after the Russian massacre of Polish protesters inWarsaw in 1861.[21] Thedean of Grodno, Józef Majewski, was deported toTobolsk inSiberia for attempting to organise a procession toRóżanystok, a regional Catholic pilgrimage destination.[21] Count Aleksander Bisping was arrested and imprisoned here during theJanuary Uprising (1863-1864) before his exile toUfa.[22]: 210–211 After the fall of the uprising, a ban on the use of Polish in public places was introduced in 1865, andmartial law was in force in Grodno until 1871.[23]
As a result of Russian discriminatory policies (seePale of Settlement) the city experienced an influx of Jewish immigrants in the 19th century, and thus had a significant Jewish population beforethe Holocaust: according toRussian census of 1897, out of the total population of 46,900, Jews constituted 22,700 (around 48%, or almost half of the total population).[24]
Grodno Military Command, which is decorated with three flags of Lithuania, Belarus, and with the Coat of arms of Lithuania in January 1919[25]
After the outbreak of World War I, Grodno wasoccupied byGermany (3 September 1915)[26] and ceded byBolshevist Russia under theTreaty of Brest-Litovsk in 1918. After the war the German government permitted a short-lived state to be set up there, the first one with aBelarusian name—theBelarusian People's Republic. This declared its independence from Russia in March 1918 inMinsk (known at that time as Mensk), but then theRada of the Belarusian Democratic Republic had to leave Minsk and fled to Grodno and later to thetemporary Lithuanian capitalKaunas.[27] All this time the military authority in the city remained in German hands until April 1919.[28] Nevertheless, military units of theLithuanian Armed Forces were formed in the German-controlled part of theGrodno Region in 1918–1919.[28][29] For example, a Belarusian unit named1st Belarusian Regiment, commanded by Alaksandar Ružancoŭ, was formed mainly from Grodno's inhabitants in 1919 as a part of the Lithuanian Armed Forces and participated in Lithuania's side during theLithuanian Wars of Independence, thus large amount of its members were awarded with the highest state award of Lithuania –Order of the Cross of Vytis.[29][25] In accordance with an agreement between Lithuania and Belarus (Rada BNR), the Grodno Region was joined to Lithuania.[27] According to Lithuanian presidentAntanas Smetona, the Lithuanians considered granting an autonomy to the Belarusian territories within Lithuania (as requested by Belarusian side; there were Belarusian members in theCouncil of Lithuania and representation in the Government of Lithuania byLithuanian Ministry for Belarusian Affairs).[30][31]
Grodno skyline in 1934
After the outbreak of thePolish–Bolshevik War, the German commanders of theOber Ost feared that the city might fall to Soviet Russia, so according to the 1919 Treaty ofBiałystok on 27 April 1919 they passed authority to Poland,[28][32] which just regained independence several months earlier. The city was taken over by thePolish Army the following day and Polish administration was established in the city. The Poles disbanded the Lithuania's 1st Belarusian Regiment (which refused to carry out Polish orders) in Grodno and publicly humiliated, looted and repressed soldiers of this unit, including officers, as well as Lithuanian and Belarusian symbols and flags in the city were torn down and publicly ridiculed, and were replaced with Polish equivalents.[33] The city was lost by Poles to theRed Army on 20 July 1920 in what became known as theFirst Battle of Grodno.[34] The city was also claimed by Lithuanian government, after it was agreed by theSoviet–Lithuanian Treaty of 1920 signed on 12 July 1920 in Moscow that the city would be transferred to Lithuania.[35] However, Soviet defeat in theBattle of Warsaw made these plans obsolete, and Lithuanian authority was never established in the city. Instead, the Red Army organised its last stand in the city and theBattle of Neman took place there. On23 September the Polish Army recaptured the city. After thePeace Treaty of Riga, Grodno remained in Poland.[36]
View of Grodno in 1935
Initially, prosperity was reduced due to the fact that the city remained only the capital of a powiat, while the capital of thevoivodeship was moved toBiałystok. However, in the late 1920s the city became one of the biggest Polish Army garrisons. This brought the local economy back on track. According to the1921 Polish census, the population of the city was 49.9% Polish, 43.4% Jewish, 4.3% Belarusian, 2.0% Russian, 0.26% German and 0.05% Lithuanian.[37]
During thePolish Defensive War of September to October 1939 the garrison of Grodno was mostly used for the formation of numerous military units fighting against the invadingWehrmacht. In the course of theSoviet invasion of Poland (initiated on 17 September 1939) heavy fighting took place in the city between Soviet and improvised Polish forces, composed mostly ofmarch battalions and volunteers.[38] In the course of theBattle of Grodno(20-22 September) theRed Army lost some hundred men (according to Polish sources; according to Soviet sources – 57 killed and 159 wounded) and also 19 tanks and 4 APCs destroyed or damaged. The Polish side suffered at least 100 killed in action, military and civil, but losses still remain uncertain in detail (Soviet sources claim 644 killed and 1543 captives with many guns and machine guns etc. captured). Over 300 captured Polish defenders of the city, including Polish Army officers and youth, were massacred afterwards by the Soviets.[39] After the Soviet forces surrounded the engaged Polish units, the escaping Polish units withdrew to Lithuania.[citation needed]
In accordance with theMolotov–Ribbentrop Pact of August 1939, the city wasoccupied by the Soviet Union and annexed into theByelorussian Soviet Socialist Republic. Several thousand of the city'sPolish inhabitants weredeported to remote areas of the Soviet Union. On 1–2 October 1940, negotiations were held in Grodno between the Lithuanian and Belarusian communists to resolve territorial disputes between theLithuanian SSR and Byelorussian SSR.[40] The Lithuanians received less territories than they were appointed by the Supreme Soviet Decree of 3 August 1940 and on 6 November 1940 the Supreme Soviet of the Soviet Union adopted a new decree regarding the borders of the Byelorussian SSR and Lithuanian SSR.[40] The Byelorussian SSR transferred cities and surroundings ofŠvenčionys,Dieveniškės,Druskininkai to the Lithuanian SSR that were mostly inhabited by Lithuanians and the Lithuanians began administrating them in January 1941.[27][40] According to a 26 September 1940 meeting protocol of the Central Committee of theCommunist Party of Byelorussia,Panteleimon Ponomarenko, the First Secretary of the Communist Party of Byelorussia, narrated during the meeting that previously he discussed with the Soviet dictatorJoseph Stalin the issue of the territorial transfers between the Byelorussian SSR and the Lithuanian SSR and Stalin said to him that if he will not transfer territories where there are many Lithuanians he will be punished.[41]
On 23 June 1941, the city came underGerman occupation that lasted until 16 July 1944. It was administered as part of theBialystok District. Surviving inmates of the Grodno prison were released and the scale of theNKVD prisoner massacres revealed.[42]In the course ofOperation Barbarossa in World War II, the majority of Jews were herded by the Nazis into theGrodno Ghetto and subsequently killed inextermination camps.[43] The Germans also operated a Nazi prison in the city.[44]
Since 1945, the city has been a centre of one of the provinces of theByelorussian SSR, now of the independent Republic of Belarus. Most of the Polish inhabitants were expelled or fled to Poland in1944–1946 and1955–1959. However, in 2019 Poles were still the second-most numerous nationality in the city (22%), after Belarusians.[citation needed]
The Grodno Old Town was severely damaged during World War II and post-war authorities lacked will to preserve its heritage. TheChurch of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which because of its founder (14th century) was commonly referred to asVytautas' Church, was first turned into a warehouse and eventually in 1961 was blown up by a decision of the Grodno Executive Committee.[47] TheGrodno Town Hall (constructed in 1513) was demolished to expandSavieckaja Square. The early 17th century Baroque styleChurch of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Bernardine Monastery was demolished in 1951 also by a decision of the Grodno Executive Committee and the Grodno Regional Drama Theatre was built in its place.[48]
In 2005, the reconstruction of the historical centre of Grodno began. In 2008, the Belarusian Voluntary Society for the Protection of Historical and Cultural Monuments declared violations of the Law on the Protection of Historical and Cultural Heritage: the destruction of the cultural layer in the historic Old Market Square, demolition of 28Constructivist architecture buildings in Mickevich, Gorky and 17 September streets in order to replace them with a modern hotel complex and the main traffic flow is directed in dangerous proximity to the New and Old Castles, while the plans to rebuild the Grodno Town Hall and the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Vytautas' Church) are not being implemented.[49]
The reconstruction of theOld Grodno Castle was started in 2017 and also received criticism due to the lacking of historical authenticity.[50][51][52] For instance, the contemporary viewpoint was added near the central gates.[53] Some specialists disputed the restoration project, they found significant mistakes in documentation that appeared because the constructor could not read historical inventory descriptions written in Polish and German. For example, the shape of the dome above the central tower, added levels between towers and galleries. Some authentic 16th century walls were demolished.[54][55]
Despite its significant loss of heritage, the city still has the largest ensemble of historical buildings in Belarus. Known as the "royal city" and "a grand-ducal-royal city", it is a popular tourist destination.[56][57] In 2022, theBrest-Grodno area was declared a visa-free zone for foreign visitors staying up to 15 days.[58][59] Nevertheless, the British, American, Lithuanian, Canadian authorities as well as representatives of theBelarusian opposition urged against travel to Belarus because of safety concerns relating to the risk of arbitrary enforcement of local laws (resulting in arrests and detention) and theRusso-Ukrainian War.[60][61][62][63][64]
Jews began to settle in Grodno in the 14th century after the approval given to them by the Lithuanian Grand DukeVytautas.[65] During the next years, their status had changed several times and in 1495 the Jews were deported from the city and banned from settling in Grodno (the ban was lifted in 1503). In 1560 there were 60 Jewish families in Grodno. They were concentrated on the "Jewish street" with their own synagogue and "hospital". In the year 1578 the great synagogue of Grodno was built by rabbiMordehai Yaffe (Baal ha-Levush). The synagogue was severely damaged in a fire in 1599.[citation needed]
The community was not affected by theKhmelnytsky uprising but suffered during the 1655 Cossack uprising and during thewar with Sweden (1703–1708). After Grodno was annexed by the Russian Empire in 1795 it was made part of thePale of Settlement within which Jewish residency was allowed, and beyond which it was prohibited. Thus the Jewish population continued to grow and in 1907 there were 25,000 Jews out of a total population of 47,000.[citation needed]
In the period of independent Poland, a yeshiva had operated in the city (Shaar ha-Tora) under the management of RabbiShimon Shkop. Before the German-Sovietinvasion of Poland there were about 25,000 Jews in Grodno out of 50,000 total population.[66] During the German occupation of the city, on 1 November 1942 the Jews were concentrated in 2 ghettos. 15,000 men were confined to the old part of the city where the main synagogue was located. A high wall of 2 meters was built around the ghetto. The second ghetto was located in the Slovodka part of the city with 10,000 inhabitants. The head of theJudenrat was appointed Dr. Braur (or Brawer), the school's headmaster, who served in this duty until his execution in February 1943 during a roundup for a deportation to Treblinka.[67] Several local Jews wererescued by Poles who either hidden them in the city or transported them to other locations.[68]
On 2 November 1942 the deportations to the death camps began and during 5 days in February 1943, 10,000 Jews were sent toAuschwitz. Later, on 13 February, 5,000 Jews were sent toTreblinka. During the deportations, many synagogues were looted and some people were murdered. The last Jews were deported in March 1943. By the end of the war, only one Jew had remained in the ghetto. However, a few hundred survived in the camps or in hiding in the area. Perhaps as many as 2000 survived, including those who fled or were deported to the USSR.[69]
After the war, the Jewish community was revived. Most of the Jews emigrated after the collapse of the Soviet Union. Today there are several hundred Jews in the city with most of the community's activity centralized in the main synagogue that had been returned to the community by the authorities in the 1990s.[65] The head of the community is Rabbi Yitzhak Kaufman.[citation needed]
A memorial plaque, commemorating the 25,000 Jews who were murdered in the two ghettos in the city of Grodno was placed on a building in Zamkavaja vulica, where the entrance to the ghetto once was.[70]
The city has one of the largest concentrations ofRoman Catholics in Belarus. It is also a centre ofPolish culture, with a significant number ofPoles living in Belarus residing in the city and its surroundings.
TheEastern Orthodox population is also widely present. The city's Catholic and Orthodox churches are important architectural treasures.
Fountain in Central Park
The city houses theGrodno State Medical University where many students from different parts of Belarus acquire academic degrees, as do a number of foreign students. Other higher educational establishments areYanka Kupala State University of Grodno (the largest education centre in Grodno Province) and Grodno State Agrarian University. To support the Polish community, a Polish school was built in 1995, where all subjects are taught inPolish and students are able to pass exams to get accepted intoPolish universities.
The town was planned to be dominated by theOld Grodno Castle, first built in stone by Grand DukeVytautas and thoroughly rebuilt in theRenaissance style by Scotto from Parma at the behest ofStefan Batory, who made the castle his principal residence. Batory died at this palace seven years later (December 1586) and originally was interred in Grodno. (Hisautopsy there was the first to take place inEastern Europe.) After his death, the castle was altered on numerous occasions, although a 17th-century stone arch bridge linking it with the city still survives. The Wettin monarchs of Poland were dissatisfied with the old residence and commissionedMatthäus Daniel Pöppelmann to design theNew Grodno Castle, whose once sumptuous Baroque interiors were destroyed during World War II.
The oldest extant structure in Grodno is theKalozha Church ofSts. Boris and Gleb (Belarusian:Каложская царква). It is the only surviving monument of ancientBlack Ruthenian architecture, distinguished from other Orthodox churches by prolific use of polychrome faceted stones of blue, green or red tint which could be arranged to form crosses or other figures on the wall.[75]
The church was built before 1183 and survived intact until 1853, when the south wall collapsed, due to its perilous location on the high bank of the Neman. During restoration works, some fragments of 12th-century frescos were discovered in the apses. Remains of four other churches in the same style, decorated with pitchers and coloured stones instead of frescos, were discovered in Grodno andVaŭkavysk. They all date back to the turn of the 13th century, as do remains of the first stone palace in the Old Castle.
The extensive grounds of the Bernardine monastery (1602–18), renovated in 1680 and 1738, display all the styles flourishing in the 17th century, from Gothic to Baroque. The interior is considered a masterpiece of so-calledVilnius Baroque. Other monastic establishments include the old Franciscan cloister (1635), Basilian convent (1720–51, by Giuseppe Fontana III), the church of theBridgettine cloister (1642, one of the earliest Baroque buildings in the region) with the wooden two-storey dormitory (1630s) still standing on the grounds, and the 18th-century buildings of the Dominican monastery (its cathedral was demolished in 1874).
Other sights in Grodno include the Orthodox cathedral, a polychromeRussian Revival extravaganza from 1904; the botanical garden, the first in the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, founded in 1774; a curiously curved building on the central square (1780s); a254-metre-high TV tower (1984); and Stanisławów, a summer residence of the last Polish king.
The city is served byGrodno Airport located 18 km south-east of Grodno.[76] Some seasonal international and charter flights are available throughout the year.
The city's public transport includestrolleybuses, which began operating in Grodno on 5 November 1974.[77] The trolleybus system is operated by the city, and in 2009 it had 12 routes and carried around 66.5 million passengers per year.[78] Additional routes have been opened subsequently, including routes 21 and 22 in November 2019.[79]
Its railway station was once an important stop on the Poland-Lithuania route, but this has been cut on the Lithuanian side.
In 21 club municipal offices are more than 220 collectives, circles, and studios in which about 6500 children and adults engage in amateur performances.[84] Of 83 on-stage performance groups 39 are ranked "national", 43 "exemplary", and one "professional".[84]
Various festivals, national holidays and ceremonies are held annually in Grodno, among them "Student's spring", an international celebration of piano music or the republican festival of theatrical youth.[84]
In 2001 the Grodno regional executive committee established the Alexander Dubko award, named for the governor of Grodnenshchina, for the best creative achievements in the sphere of culture.[86] 84 persons have been awarded this prize.[87]
From 26 October 2016 residents of 77 countries can travel to Grodno and theGrodno District without a visa and stay there for up to 10 days.[88][89][90]
Solomon Perel (1925–2023), a German Jew who survived World War II by masquerading as an ethnic German. He spent two years at aKomsomol-run orphanage in Grodno, beforeOperation Barbarossa
Czesław Niemen (1939–2004), Polish musician, composer and one of the pioneers ofprogressive rock studied at a local music school
Grodno is a location for one of the missions in the alternate history RTSCommand and Conquer: Red Alert; Grodno was part of the Soviet Union and the Allied forces must work to rescue a special operative before her execution in a Soviet military base.
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^Felix Zandman, J. Szwarc and A. May, eds. (2016). "Liquidation of the Ghettos and the Deportations to the Camps (November 2, 1942 – March 12, 1942)". The German Occupation - 4. Lost Jewish Worlds.
^Megargee, Geoffrey (2012).Encyclopedia of Camps and Ghettos. Bloomington, Indiana: University of Indiana Press. p. Volume 2, page 892.ISBN978-0-253-35599-7.
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^"Trolleynews [regular news section]".Trolleybus Magazine. Vol. 56, no. 349. UK: National Trolleybus Association. January–February 2020. p. 26.ISSN0266-7452.
Марціновіч, А. (2008). П. В. Гринчанко (ed.).Горадна, Гораден, Гродно. Твае гарады, Беларусь (in Russian). Мн.: Мастацкая літаратура.ISBN978-985-02-0921-4.
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