Gotland (/ˈɡɒtlənd/;Swedish:[ˈɡɔ̌tːland]ⓘ;[5]Gutland inGutnish),[6] also historically spelledGottland orGothland (/ˈɡɒθlənd/),[7] is Sweden's largest island.[8][9][10][11] It is also aprovince/county (Swedish län),municipality, anddiocese. The province includes the islands ofFårö andGotska Sandön to the north, as well as the Karlsö Islands (Lilla andStora) to the west. The population is 61,023 (2024)[12] of which about 23,600 live inVisby, the main town.[1] Outside Visby, there are minor settlements and a mainly rural population. The island of Gotland and the other areas of the province of Gotland make up less than one percent of Sweden's total land area. The county formed by the archipelago is the second smallest by area and is the least populated in Sweden. In spite of the small size due to its narrow width, the driving distance between the furthermost points of the populated islands is about 170 kilometres (110 mi).[13]
Gotland is afully integrated part of Sweden with no particular autonomy, unlike several other offshore island groups in Europe. Historically, there was a linguistic difference between the archipelago and the mainland withGutnish being the native language. In recent centuries,Swedish took over almost entirely and the island is virtually monolingually Swedish in modern times. The archipelago is a very popular domestic tourist destination for mainland Swedes, with the population rising to very high numbers during summers. Some of the reasons are thesunny climate and the extensive shoreline bordering mild waters. During summer, Visby hosts the political eventAlmedalen Week, followed by theMedieval Week, further boosting visitor numbers. In winter, Gotland usually remains surrounded by ice-free water and has mild weather.
Gotland has been inhabited since approximately 7200 BCE.[14] The island's main sources of income are agriculture, food processing, tourism, information technology services, design, and some heavy industry such as concrete production from locally minedlimestone.[15] From a military standpoint, it occupies a strategic location at the center of theBaltic Sea and is home to theGotland Regiment which was re-established in 2018.
The island was the home of theGutes, and sites such as theAjvide Settlement show that it has been occupied sinceprehistory.[17] A DNA study conducted on the 5,000-year-old skeletal remains of three Middle Neolithic seal hunters from Gotland showed that they were related to modern-dayFinns, while a farmer fromGökhem parish inVästergötland on the mainland was found to be more closely related to modern-day Mediterraneans. This is consistent with the spread of agricultural peoples from the Middle East at about that time.[18]
Torsätra runestone (U 614) raised in memory of one of the Swedish king's tribute collectors who fell ill and died during a trip to Gotland.Swedish History Museum, Stockholm.
Gutasaga contains legends of how the island was settled byÞieluar and populated by his descendants. It also tells that a third of the population had to emigrate and settle in southern Europe, a tradition associated with the migration of theGoths, whose name has the same origin asGutes, the native name of the people of the island. It later tells that the Gutes voluntarily submitted to the king of Sweden and asserts that the submission was based on mutual agreement, and notes the duties and obligations of the Swedish King and Bishop in relationship to Gotland.[19] According to some historians, it is therefore an effort not only to write down the history of Gotland, but also to assert Gotland's independence from Sweden.[20]
It givesAwair Strabain as the name of the man who arranged the mutually beneficial agreement with the king of Sweden; the event would have taken place before the end of the ninth century, whenWulfstan of Hedeby reported that the island was subject to the Swedes:
Then, after theland of the Burgundians, we had on our left the lands that have been called from the earliest timesBlekingey, andMeore, andEowland, and Gotland, all which territory is subject to theSweons; and Weonodland was all the way on our right, as far asWeissel-mouth.[21]
The number of Arabdirhams discovered on the island of Gotland alone is astoundingly high. In the varioushoards located around the island, there are more of these silver coins than at any other site in Western Eurasia. The total sum is almost as great as the number that has been unearthed in the entire Muslim world.[22] These coins moved north through trade betweenRus merchants and theAbbasid Caliphate, along theSilver-Fur Road, and the money made by Scandinavian merchants would help northern Europe, especially Viking Scandinavia and theCarolingian Empire, as major commercial centers for the next several centuries.[23]
On 16July 1999, the world's largest Viking silver treasure, theSpillings Hoard, was found in a field at Spillings farm northwest ofSlite.[27] The silver treasure was divided into two parts weighing a total of 67 kg (148 lb) (27 kg (60 lb) and 40 kg (88 lb)) and consisted mostly of coins, about 14,000, from foreign countries, mostly Islamic.[28] It also contained about 20 kg (44 lb) of bronze objects along with numerous everyday objects such as nails, glass beads, parts of tools, pottery, iron bands and clasps. The treasure was found by using a metal detector, and the finders fee, given to the farmer who owned the land, was over 2 million kronor (about US$308,000).[29] The treasure was found almost by accident while filming a news report forTV4 about illegal treasure hunting on Gotland.[30]
Early on, Gotland became a commercial center, with the town of Visby the most importantHanseatic city in theBaltic Sea.[31] In late medieval times, the island had twenty district courts (tings), each represented by its elected judge at the island-ting, calledlandsting. New laws were decided at the landsting, which also took other decisions regarding the island as a whole.[32] The earliest recorded law for the island isGutalagen, which was written around 1220 CE and remained in use until 1645 when Sweden regained control of the island from Denmark.[33]
The authority of the landsting was successively eroded after the island was occupied by the Teutonic Order, then sold toEric of Pomerania and after 1449 ruled byDanish governors.[32] In late medieval times, the ting consisted of twelve representatives for the farmers, free-holders or tenants.[citation needed]
On 22 April 1808, during theFinnish War between Sweden and Russia, a Russian army landed on the southeastern shores of Gotland nearGrötlingbo. Under command ofNikolai Andreevich Bodisko 1,800 Russians took the city ofVisby without any combat or engagement, and occupied the island. A Swedish naval force rescue expedition was sent fromKarlskrona under the command of admiralRudolf Cederström with 2,000 men; the island was liberated and the Russians capitulated. Russian forces left the island on 18 May 1808.
The traditionalprovinces of Sweden serve no administrative or political purposes today, but are historical and cultural entities. In the case of Gotland, however, due to its insular position, the administrativecounty (län),Gotland County, and themunicipality (kommun),Region Gotland, both cover the same territory as the province. Furthermore, thediocese of Visby is also congruent with the province.[39][40][41] Gotland is traditionally divided into 92sockens.[1] On 1January 2016, they were all reconstituted intoDistricts, administrative areas with the same borders as the former sockens.[42]
Gotland was granted its arms in about 1560.[43] Thecoat of arms is represented with a ducal coronet. Blazon: "Azure a ram statant Argent armed Or holding on a cross-staff of the same a banner Gules bordered and with five tails of the third." The county was granted the same coat of arms in 1936. The municipality, created in 1971, uses the same picture, but with othertinctures.
Detailed map of GotlandTopographic map of GotlandThe marine areas around Gotland, which lies between the numerals 7 and 8, which, along with No. 9, form theGotland Basin
Gotland is Sweden's largest island, and it is the largest island fully encompassed by the Baltic Sea (with Denmark'sZealand at the Baltic's edge).[8][9][10][11] With its total area of 3,183.7 km2 (1,229.2 sq mi) the island of Gotland and the other areas of the province of Gotland make up 0.8% of Sweden's total land area.[44] The province includes the small islands of Fårö and Gotska Sandön to the north, as well as the Karlsö Islands, (Lilla and Stora) to the west, which are even smaller. The island of Gotland has an area of 2,994 km2 (1,156 sq mi), whereas the province has 3,183.7 km2 (1,229.2 sq mi) [3,151 km2 (1,217 sq mi) of land excluding the lakes and rivers].[45] The population is 61,001 as of December 2021.[2] As of 2016, approximately 23,600 people (about 40% of residents) lived in Visby, which is the seat of the municipality and the capital of the county.[1]
Gotland is located about 90 km (56 mi) east of the Swedish mainland and about 130 km (81 mi) from theBaltic states,Latvia being the nearest. Gotland is the name of the main island, but the adjacent islands are generally considered part of Gotland and the Gotlandic culture:
There are several shallow lakes located near the shores of the island. The biggest isLake Bästeträsk, located nearFleringe in the northern part of Gotland. TheHoburg Shoalbird reserve is situated on the southern tip of the island.[46] The highest point of the island isLojsta Hed which stands 82 m (269 ft) above sea level. The average height of the island is 29 meters.[47]
Of these, Hemse is the largest settlement in southern Gotland and along with Roma the two largest inland villages. Burgsvik is the southernmost locality and Fårösund the northernmost. The island of Fårö is permanently settled, but with only a few hundred year-round residents and lacks a permanent fixed link to the main island. Residents are depending on an around the clock, free of charge,car ferry for transportation over a strait roughly 1.3 km (0.81 mi) wide, taking about eight minutes.[48][49] Fårö may get connected to the main island with abridge in the future, but the project has had plenty of delays related to funding.[50][51] At the closest point, the two islands are separated by less than 500 metres (1,600 ft), although that is at a distance from road connections.
Slite is the largest settlement on Gotland's sparsely populated east coast. The eastern coast of Gotland, including the adjacent marine waters and islets, has been designated an 150,000 haImportant Bird Area (IBA) byBirdLife International because it supports a suite ofwaterfowl,waders andterns.[52]
Gotland surrounded by the Baltic Sea showing the high levels of algal bloom in the waters (2019).
Gotland has a semi-continental variety of amarine climate (Cfb). This results in larger seasonal differences than typical of marine climates in spite of it being surrounded by the Baltic Sea for large distances in all directions. This is due to strong continental winds travelling over the sea from surrounding great landmasses.Seasonal temperature variation is smaller in more isolated places on the island such as Hoburgen or Östergarnsholm, having warmer autumn and winter, but are cooler during spring and summer days. Seasonal lag being exceptionally strong in the weather station Östergarnsholm. As an example, December is warmer than March with temperature lows being similar to April. August is typically the warmest month, an unusual occurrence in Swedish sites. In capital Visby, July and August temperatures tend to be quite even.
Since winters usually remain just above freezing andbrackish water remaining liquid longer than freshwater, the sea remains ice-free all year round, except during rare extremecold waves. The last time the whole passage from the mainland to Gotland froze was in 1987 whenicebreakers were used to maintain passenger and goods traffic to the island.[53]
Climate data forVisby Airport (2002–2020 averages, extremes since 1901)
Gotland is made up of a sequence ofsedimentary rocks of aSilurian age, dipping to the south-east.The main Silurian succession oflimestones andshales comprises thirteen units spanning 200 to 500 m (660 to 1,640 ft) of stratigraphic thickness, being thickest in the south, and overlies a 75 to 125 m (246 to 410 ft) thickOrdovician sequence.[61]
It was deposited in a shallow, hot, and salty sea on the edge of an equatorial continent.[62] The water depth never exceeded 175 to 200 m (574 to 656 ft),[63] and became shallower over time asbioherm detritus and terrestrial sediments filled the basin. Reef growth started in theLlandovery Epoch, when the sea was 50 to 100 m (160 to 330 ft), and reefs continued to dominate the sedimentary record.[61] Some sandstones are present in the youngest rocks towards the south of the island, which represent sand bars deposited very close to the shoreline.[64]
The island's main sources of income are agriculture along with food processing, tourism, IT solutions, design and some heavy industry such as concrete production from locally minedlimestone. Most of Gotland's economy is based on small scale production.[66]In 2012, there were over 7,500 registered companies on Gotland.[67] 1,500 of these had more than one employee.[15] Gotland has the world's northernmost established vineyard and winery, located inHablingbo.[68][69]
World War II erapillbox located near Brucebo, Gotland County
Gotland occupies a strategic location in the Baltic sea from a defence viewpoint. In March 2015, the Swedish government decided to begin reestablishing a permanent military presence on Gotland, starting with an initial 150 troop garrison,[71] consisting primarily of elements from theSwedish Army. It has been reported that the bulk of this initial garrison will make up a new motorised rifle battalion,[72] alternatively referred to in other reports as a "modular-structured rapid response Army battalion". A later report claimed that plans were at an advanced stage for asupport helicopter squadron and an Air Force "fast response Gripen jet squadron" to also be based on the island to support the new garrison and further reinforce the defences.[73] Prior to the disbandment of the original garrison, there had been a continuous Swedish military presence on Gotland in one form or another, for nearly 200 years.[74]
After the standing down of the original garrison, a battalion of theSwedish Home Guard is based on Gotland for emergencies as part of the Eastern Military Region (MR E). The unit,32:a Gotlandsbataljonen (the 32nd Gotland battalion), acts as a reserve component of theSwedish Amphibious Corps.[75] Among the residualwar reserve stocks reported to be still in storage on Gotland in March 2015, were 14 tanks[76] (Stridsvagn 122s) at theTofta skjutfält (theTofta firing range),[77][78] but without any crews or dedicated maintenance personnel assigned to them.[79]
A 2005 photo of 4 IFVs (Combat Vehicle 90) during an exercise atTofta skjutfält
Gotland currently has no local air defence capability.[80] Despite its importance as a naval base in the past,[81] as of 2004[update], there are no naval units based on Gotland.[80] The Tofta firing range itself (also known as the Tofta Tank firing range), is a military training ground which is located 8 km (5.0 mi) south of Visby. Another less common name for the range is the Toftasjön firing range. Tracing its origins back to 1898, as of 2008[update] the range extended over 2,700 acres (11 km2). It was a major training and storage facility for the Gotland garrison during its existence, and was still occasionally used for training by various elements of theArmed Forces since the garrison was shut down in 2005. However, from the second half of 2014 onwards, there has been a marked increase in the use of the range, especially by armored units (mostly company sized),[78] as tensions in Northeastern Europe have escalated. At least one of the buildings on the range, the former tankrepair shop, is currently owned by a private company (Peab), with the military renting back the top floor for its own use.[79]When not used by the military, a number of cultural and sports events have been held at the range, one of the most notable being theGotland Grand National [sv], the world's largestenduro race, from 1984 to 2023.[82][83]
During the late 2010s and early 2020s, Gotland has seen an increased focus on its strategic importance and an increase in military spending. TheGotland Regiment was re-established in 2018, the first time since World War II that a new regiment has been established in Sweden. Following the2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine andSweden's accession to NATO, military readiness on Gotland increased, with the Swedish government spending 150 million euros to expand military infrastructure on the island.[84]
The first modern day tourists came to Gotland during the 19th century and were known as "bathers".[85] Gotland became very popular with socialites at the time throughPrincess Eugenie who lived inVästerhejde, in the west part of the island from the 1860s.[86][87]
When a new law ensuring two weeks vacation for all employees in Sweden was passed in 1938, camping became a popular pastime among the Swedes, and in 1955, Gotland was visited by 80,000 people.[87] In the 1970s mostly young people were attracted to Gotland. Since 2010 the island has become a more versatile vacation spot visited by people from all over the world, in all manner of ways.[87]
In 2001, it was the fifth largest tourist destination in Sweden based on the total number of guest nights.[88] Gotland is usually the part of Sweden which receives the most hours of sunlight during a year with Visby statistically the location with the most sunshine in Sweden.[89] In 2007 approximately 750,000 people visited Gotland.[15]
In 1996, for the first time, ferries between Gotland and mainland Sweden carried more than 1 million passengers in a year. In 2007, the number of passengers exceeded 1.5 million.[90] In 2012, the ferries had 1,590,271 passengers and the airlines 327,255 passengers.[91] Even during theCOVID-19 pandemic tourism did not change much as Swedes chose to visit the island instead of travelling abroad.[92]
Number of tourists from top five countries in 2012[93]
The main port of call on Gotland is Visby. The city is visited by a number of cruise ships every year.[95][96] About 40 cruise lines frequent the Baltic sea with Visby as one of their destinations.[97] In 2005, 147 ships docked at Visby, in 2010 the number was 69.[98] In 2014, 62 ships are scheduled to visit Visby.[99] The decrease in visiting ships is due to the fact that the modern cruise ships are too large to enter Visby harbor.[98] Ships must anchor a fair distance from shore whereupon passengers are shuttled to shore in small boats, which is not possible during bad weather.[100] In 2007, the first proposition for building a new pier at Visby harbor, large enough to serve the modern cruise ships, was made.[101] In 2011, the matter of the new pier was discussed in theRiksdag[102] and in 2012 research and planning for the pier began.[98] In January 2014, a letter of intent for building a new cruise pier in Visby harbor was signed byRegion Gotland and Copenhagen Malmö Port (CMP). The pier was finished in 2018. The estimated cost is 250 millioncrowns (about US$38.52 million).[103][104]
The island is served by the only commercial airport,Visby Airport which offers connections to the Swedish mainland.[105] With 467,857 passengers in 2018,[106] it is the 9th largest airport in Sweden.[107] Daily flights toStockholm Arlanda Airport is a common way to reach or depart from the island.[108]
The eastern part of the Visby City WallThe lonely man on the cliff -Pelle Swedlund (1928). This painting portrays theHögklint, a giant and particular cliff nearVisby.
A number of stones withgrooves exist on Gotland. Archaeologists interpret these grooves as traces of an unknown industrial process in theHigh Middle Ages. There are approximately 3,700 grinding grooves, of which about 750 occur in the solid limestone outcrop and the rest in other rock formations. The latter often consist of hard rocks such as granite or gneiss, but also soft rocks such as sandstone occur.[109] Grinding grooves are also found in Skåne, in southern Sweden and in Finland. Astronomer Göran Henriksson dates a number of these grinding grooves to the Stone Age, fromc. 3300 BCE toc. 2000 BCE, based on astronomical alignments,[110] although his methodology has been heavily criticized.[111]
Replica of goldtorc fromHavor HoardThevalknut symbol has its most discovered examples on Gotland
The Medieval town of Visby has been entered as a site of theUNESCOWorld heritage programme. An impressive feature of Visby is the fortress wall that surrounds the old city, dating from the 13th century.[112]
Many of the residents still speakGutnish (Gutamål), theautochthonous language on the islands. But most of them now speakGotlandic (Swedish:gotländska), a Gutnish-influenced Swedish dialect.[113] In the 13th century, a work containing the laws of the island, called "the Gotlandic law" (Gutalagen), was published inOld Gutnish, as well as theGutasaga.[114]
Gotland is noted for its 94Medieval churches,[115] most of which are restored and in active use. These churches exhibit two major styles of architecture:Romanesque andGothic. The older churches were constructed in the Romanesque style from 1150 to 1250. The newer churches were constructed in the Gothic architectural style that prevailed from about 1250–1400. The oldest painting inside one of the churches on Gotland stretches as far back in time as the 12th century.[116]
Traditional games of skill likeKubb,Pärk, andVarpa are played on Gotland. They are part of what has become called "Gutniska Lekar", and are performed preferably on the Midsummer's Eve celebration on the island, but also throughout the summer months. The games have widespread renown; some of them are played by people as far away as in the United States.[117]
Gotland gives its name to the traditional farmhouse aleGotlandsdricka, a turbid beer with much in common with Finnishsahti, and related beers from theBaltic states.[121]
Round Gotland Race-sailing event ("ÅF Offshore Race") starting at Stockholm, around the island of Gotland and back.[125]
Gotland Grand National [sv] (GGN) is an annualenduro race on Gotland. GGN is a part of the Swedishenduroklassikern (enduro classics, Ränneslättsloppet, Stångebroslaget and Gotland Grand National). GNN is the world's largest enduro race.[126][127]
Stånga Games are annual games for Gotlandic sports. The games are held during five days each summer inStånga. The games are unofficially called "the Gotland Olympic Games". Some of the sports at the Stånga Games arepärk,varpa andcaber toss.[117]
The Long Ships, orRed Orm (original title:Röde Orm), a best-selling Swedish novel written byFrans G. Bengtsson, contains a vivid description of Gotland in the Viking Age. A section of the book is devoted to a Viking ship setting out to Russia, stopping on its way at Gotland and engaging a pilot from the island who plays an important part in their voyage. Gotlanders of the Viking era are depicted as city people, more sophisticated and cosmopolitan than other Scandinavians of their time, and proud of their knowledge and skills.
Naomi Mitchison, in her autobiographic book "You may well ask", relates an experience during a walking tour in Sweden: "Over in Gotland I walked again, further than I would have if I had realized that the milestones were inold Swedish miles, so that my disappointing three-mile walk along the cold sea edge under the strange ancient fortifications was really fifteen English miles [24 km]".[134]
The crime novels ofMari Jungstedt, featuring Detective Superintendent Anders Knutas, are set on Gotland.
For the 1989 Studio Ghibli film,Kiki's Delivery Service, by Hayao Miyazaki, he and other illustrators spent time in Gotland in preparation for animation.
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^Jansson, Sven B. F. (1962).The runes of Sweden. Stockholm: Norstedt. pp. 3–4.Archived from the original on 19 August 2014. Retrieved11 June 2014.
^Long, D.G.F. (1993). "The Burgsvik beds, an Upper Silurian storm generated sand ridge complex in southern Gotland".Geologiska Föreningen i Stockholm Förhandlingar.115 (4):299–309.doi:10.1080/11035899309453917.ISSN0016-786X.
^Laufeld, Sven; Martinsson, Anders (22–28 August 1981). "Reefs and ultrashallow environments. Guidebook to the field excursions in the Silurian of Gotland".Project Ecostratigraphy Plenary Meeting.
^"Därför säljs Gute vingård".www.helagotland.se. Gotlands Tidningar. 3 November 2015.Archived from the original on 11 February 2017. Retrieved9 February 2017.
^Pappinen, Lauri."English information".www.gutevingard.se. Gute Vingård AB.Archived from the original on 11 February 2017. Retrieved9 February 2017.
^"GOTLAND I SIFFROR" [GOTLAND IN NUMBERS] (in Swedish). Region Gotland. 2016. p. 19. Archived fromthe original on 10 September 2013. Retrieved14 September 2016.Number of permanent employees stationed on the island
^Olsson, Kjell."Militärbefälet på Gotland" [Military command on Gotland].www.gotlandsforsvarshistoria.se (in Swedish). Gotlands Militärhistoria och Gotlands Trupper.Archived from the original on 21 October 2020. Retrieved14 March 2015.
^abOlsson, Kjell."Militärbefälet på Gotland".www.tjelvar.se (in Swedish). Gotlands Militärhistoria och Gotlands Trupper.Archived from the original on 23 March 2015. Retrieved14 March 2015.
^Gottfridsson, Thomas (November 2013)."GGN firar 30 år med rekordantal" [Record breaking number of participants celebrates 30 years of GNN].www.helagotland.se (in Swedish). HelaGotland.Archived from the original on 2 April 2015. Retrieved14 March 2015.
^Visitors on these ships are not included in the statistics in the section above since they come to Gotland in ships owned by other shipping companies than Destination Gotland, and these visitors only disembark during the day and do not use the accommodation available on Gotland.
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^Andersson, Lars (29 January 2014)."Ny kryssningskaj i Visby".Website/Newspaper. Sjöfartstidningen.Archived from the original on 6 June 2014. Retrieved2 June 2014.
^Lindström, Jonathan; Roslund, Curt (2000)."Göran Henrikssons nonsensforskning".Folkvett. Vetenskap och Folkbildning.Archived from the original on 1 March 2014. Retrieved9 February 2014.
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^Lagerlöf, Erland; Svahnström, Gunnar (1973).Gotlands kyrkor: en vägledning (in Swedish) (2. omarb o utök. uppl. ed.). Stockholm: Rabén & Sjögren.ISBN91-29-41035-5.Archived from the original on 14 July 2014. Retrieved13 June 2014.
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