Gopalpur tussar silk
Geographical indication
Alternative names	ଗୋପାଳପୁର ଟସର ବସ୍ତ୍ର
Type	Fabric
Area	Gopalpur,Jajpur district,Odisha
Country	India
Registered	2009
Material	Silk

The village ofGopalpur inJajpur District in the Indian state ofOdisha is known for producingtussar silk. Thehandicraft received theGeographical Indication tag by the Government of India in 2009. The fabric may be used fordhoti,shawls,scarves, andsaris.^[1]

Women and girls usually reel the tussar threads holding 'natai'^{[what language is this?]} in their right hand and unwinding the thread around thecocoons with their other hand. Twisting the filament, the weaver winds the yarns on the wooden 'natai' at a continuous speed. Embellishments are done by hand, either with extra weft or extra warp with a 'bandha'^{[what language is this?]} pattern in hand. The embellishments increase the value of the fabric. Alternatively, reeling machines are available.

Traditionally, thread is wound around the chadaki^{[what language is this?]} to fill thebobbins (nali) for weft with the help of aspinning wheel (charakha).Gandhi charakha or wooden charakha have been replaced by a metal part.

Fabric is woven using a 'cutshuttle technique', in which shuttles interlock with one another to formfoda kumbha in the weft direction. Shuttles on both sides interlock with the main shuttle for the main body of the fabric. By tie and die bandha technique, the foda kumbha pattern is copied for multiple productions.

Threads are dyed in different shades, such as maroon, red, plum and rust. Fabrics are designed in tussar and gheecha^{[what language is this?]} and enhanced with a weft and cut shuttle technique.

The tussar silk is mainly marketed by PWCS and SHGs^{[clarification needed]} traders through the Boyanika (OSHWCS), Sambalpuri Bastralaya, SERIFED, Pvt. traders. Sales also take place at exhibitions and in local markets. According to a 2013-14 survey, 745 looms operate in this cluster. Around 5,000 people are dependent on this industry for income.^[2]

• Geographical indications in Odisha
• Textile arts of India

• All articles with unidentified words
• Articles with unidentified words from October 2020
• Wikipedia articles needing clarification from October 2020