Fort Madison is a city in and acounty seat ofLee County,Iowa, United States[5] along withKeokuk. Of Iowa's 99 counties, Lee County is the only one with two county seats. The population was 10,270 at the time of the2020 census.[6] Located along theMississippi River in the state's southeast corner, it lies between small bluffs along one of the widest portions of the river. Fort Madison is also the home of theIowa State Penitentiary.
Fort Madison was founded as the location of the first U.S. military fort in the upper Mississippi region.[7] A replica of the fort stands along the river.[8]Sheaffer Pens were developed and made in Fort Madison for many years. The city is the location of theIowa State Penitentiary—the state's maximum security prison for men. Fort Madison is the Mississippi river crossing andstation stop for Amtrak'sSouthwest Chief. Fort Madison has one of two remaining double swing-span bridges on the Mississippi River, theFort Madison Toll Bridge, the other being the Government Bridge in Rock Island, Illinois. It has a top level for cars and a similar level for trains; it is also the world's largest[1].
TheFort Madison Downtown Commercial Historic District is a collection of well-preserved historic storefronts from the late 19th century. Along with this is thePark-to-Park Residential Historic District. The Historic Park to Park District is a seven block long, three block wide section of homes that represent the Gothic, Victorian, and Tudor era. With a rich variety of architectural styles like Gothic Revival, Italianate, Second Empire, Eastlake Stick, Richardson Romanesque, Queen Anne, and Tudor. With two of the six parks within the District. It is on the National Historic Registry.
Fort Madison, built in 1808 (1903 artist's interpretation)Plans of Fort Madison, drawn in 1810 by a trading post factor
The city of Fort Madison was established around the site of the historic Fort Madison (1808–1813), which was the first permanent U.S. military fortification on the Upper Mississippi. Fort Madison was the site ofBlack Hawk's first battle against U.S. troops, the only realWar of 1812 battle fought west of the Mississippi. It was also the location of the first U.S. military cemetery in the upper Midwest.[9] The fort was named forJames Madison, fourth President of the United States.[10]
Fort Madison was one of three posts established by theU.S. Army to establish control over the newly acquiredLouisiana Purchase territories. Fort Madison was built to control trade and pacify Native Americans in the Upper Mississippi River region. The other two posts wereFort Belle Fontaine nearSt. Louis, which controlled the mouth of the Missouri, andFort Osage, near what is nowKansas City, which controlled trade with western Native American tribes.[11]
A disputed 1804 treaty with theSauk and affiliated tribes led to the U.S. claim of control over westernIllinois and parts of what is nowIowa. To establish control, the U.S. Army set out to construct a post near the mouth of theDes Moines River, a major trading route into the interior of Iowa. Not finding suitable land near the mouth of the Des Moines, the expedition also considered land nearQuashquame'sSauk andMeskwaki village at the head of theDes Moines Rapids, a choke point of trade and transportation on the Upper Mississippi below modernMontrose. Again, this land was not considered suitable for a fort. The Army settled on a location several miles upstream at what is now the city of Fort Madison.[12]
First called Fort Belleview, this post was also soon deemed inadequate. It was poorly situated at the base of a bluff next to a deep ravine, areas from which enemies could safely fire at the fort. Its construction led to resentment among the local Native Americans, especially the Sauk: They considered the 1804 treaty invalid, the fort threatened established trading networks, and American trade goods were considered inferior to French or British goods.[13]
Black Hawk lamented over the new fort, and disparaged its construction in his autobiography.
Almost from the beginning, the fort was attacked by Sauk and other tribes. U.S. troops were harassed when they left the fort, and in April 1809, only threat of cannon fire stopped an attempted storming of the fort.[14]
During its existence, several improvements were made to the fort, including reinforcing the stockade and making it higher, extending the fort to a nearby bluff to provide cover from below, and constructing of additional blockhouses outside the stockade. These improvements could not fully compensate for the fort's poor location, however, and it was again attacked in March 1812, and was the focus of a coordinated siege in the following September. The September siege was intense, and the fort was nearly overrun. Significant damage resulted to fort-related buildings, and the attack was only stopped when cannon fire destroyed a fortified Indian position.[15] Black Hawk participated in the siege, and claimed to have personally shot down the fort's flag.[16]
As the War of 1812 expanded to the frontier, British-allied Sauk and other tribes began a determined effort to push out the Americans and reclaim control of the upper Mississippi. Beginning in July 1813, attacks on troops outside the fort led to another siege. Conditions were so dangerous that the Army could not recover the bodies of soldiers killed outside the fort and troops could not leave the fort to collect firewood. The Army burned outbuildings to prevent them from falling into Indian hands.[17]
After weeks of paralyzing siege, the Army finally abandoned the post, burning it as they evacuated. They retreated in the dark through a trench to the river, where they escaped on boats. The date of the abandonment is unknown, as much of the military correspondence from this period of the war is missing, but it probably happened in September.[17] Black Hawk observed the ruins soon after. "We started in canoes, and descended the Mississippi, until we arrived near the place where Fort Madison had stood. It had been abandoned and burned by the whites, and nothing remained but the chimneys. We were pleased to see that the white people had retired from the country."[16]
United States government had establisheda federal fur trade station at Fort Madison in 1808. It was burned down in 1812 by order of the military commander who feared that it would endanger the fort.[18]
Early settlers built their homes near the ruins and named the town that grew up around them for the fort.[7] A large monument was erected in the early 20th century at the fort location. Archaeological excavations in the parking lot of theSheaffer Pen Company factory in 1965 exposed the fort's central blockhouse and the foundations of officers' quarters.[19] The site was listed on theNational Register of Historic Places in 1973.[20] A replica fort was built several blocks away; much of the labor was supplied by volunteer inmates at the nearbyIowa State Penitentiary.[8]
The fort site is now the subject of preservation efforts. After the Sheaffer Pen factory closed in 2007, the site was sold to developers. Arguing that Fort Madison is "Iowa's most important historical site", preservationists want to convert the parking lot into a memorial park dedicated to soldiers killed at the fort. So far, no agreement has been reached for its preservation.[21][22][23]
The first settler at the ruins of the fort was General John Holly Knapp, who in 1832 bought a claim to some land of the fort and built the first building in the fall of the same year, utilized as an Indian Supply Store. Early next spring and his cousin Nathaniel Knapp with family settled there, joined by some other settlers the same year, In June 1835, General Knapp and Nathaniel Knapp, laid out the town of Fort Madison. Due to some land title issues, in 1840 the town was relocated on the same lot lines by the government.[7]
According to theUnited States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 13.23 square miles (34.27 km2), of which 9.49 square miles (24.58 km2) is land and 3.74 square miles (9.69 km2) is water.[24]
Fort Madison is famous for the Tri-State Rodeo, RiverFest, Mexican Fiesta, Balloons Over the Mississippi, Art in Central Park and Annual Lighted Parade.
As of thecensus of 2020,[27] there were 10,270 people, 4,315 households, and 2,455 families residing in the city. Thepopulation density was 1,064.9 inhabitants per square mile (411.2/km2). There were 5,013 housing units at an average density of 519.8 per square mile (200.7/km2). Theracial makeup of the city was 86.0%White, 4.4%Black or African American, 0.4%Native American, 0.6%Asian, 0.0%Pacific Islander, 1.7% from other races and 6.9% from two or more races.Hispanic or Latino of any race comprised 6.2% of the population.
Of the 4,315 households, 27.0% of which had children under the age of 18 living with them, 37.0% weremarried couples living together, 8.6% were cohabitating couples, 33.0% had a female householder with no spouse or partner present and 21.4% had a male householder with no spouse or partner present. 43.1% of all households were non-families. 37.1% of all household were made up of individuals, 17.2% had someone living alone who was 65 years old or older.
The median age in the city was 42.2 years. 23.1% of the residents were under the age of 20; 5.4% were between the ages of 20 and 24; 24.4% were from 25 and 44; 25.3% were from 45 and 64; and 21.8% were 65 years of age or older. The gender makeup of the city was 50.5% male and 49.5% female.
As of thecensus[28] of 2010, there were 11,051 people, 4,403 households, and 2,667 families residing in the city. Thepopulation density was 1,164.5 inhabitants per square mile (449.6/km2). There were 4,956 housing units at an average density of 522.2 per square mile (201.6/km2). The racial makeup of the city was 89.3%White, 5.5%African American, 0.4%Native American, 0.6%Asian, 0.1%Pacific Islander, 1.6% fromother races, and 2.5% from two or more races.Hispanic orLatino of any race were 6.7% of the population.
There were 4,403 households, of which 28.7% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 41.7% weremarried couples living together, 13.4% had a female householder with no husband present, 5.5% had a male householder with no wife present, and 39.4% were non-families. 33.4% of all households were made up of individuals, and 13.9% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.26 and the average family size was 2.84.
The median age in the city was 39.9 years. 21% of residents were under the age of 18; 9.2% were between the ages of 18 and 24; 26.2% were from 25 to 44; 28% were from 45 to 64; and 15.7% were 65 years of age or older. The gender makeup of the city was 52.8% male and 47.2% female.
As of the census[29] of 2000, there were 10,715 people, 4,617 households and 2,876 families residing in the city. The population density was 1,162.9 inhabitants per square mile (449.0/km2). There were 5,106 housing units at an average density of 554.2 per square mile (214.0/km2). The city's racial makeup was 92.64% White, 2.67% African American, 0.28% Native American, 0.61% Asian, 0.17% Pacific Islander, 2.36% from other races, and 1.28% from two or more races. Hispanic or Latino of any race were 5.44% of the population.
There were 4,617 households, of which 28.2% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 46.7% were married couples living together, 11.8% had a female householder with no husband present, and 37.7% were non-families. 33.2% of all households were made up of individuals, and 15.8% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.27 and the average family size was 2.87.
Age spread: 23.6% under the age of 18, 8.4% from 18 to 24, 26.1% from 25 to 44, 23.1% from 45 to 64, and 18.8% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 40 years. For every 100 females, there were 90.5 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 86.3 males.
Themedian income for a household in the city was $34,318, and the median family income was $42,067. Males had a median income of $32,530 versus $21,170 for females. The city'sper capita income was $18,124. About 9.8% of families and 12.2% of the population were below thepoverty line, including 18.1% of those under age 18 and 9.1% of those age 65 or over.
The W.A. Sheaffer Pen Company was founded in Fort Madison in 1907 byWalter A. Sheaffer. Sheaffer owned a jewelry store, in the back of which he invented a lever-fillingfountain pen. Millions of pens were produced. The company was sold in 1997 to the French manufacturer Bic, which closed the Fort Madison plant in 2006, and then to theA.T. Cross Company ofProvidence, RI in 2014.[30] The Sheaffer Pen Museum in Fort Madison features many exhibits of the company's writing instruments.
An annual Parade of Lights along Avenue G takes place on the Friday afterThanksgiving, following which the lighted floats, sponsored by local businesses and industry, go on display in Riverside Park until afterNew Year's Day.[31]
The North Lee County Historical Society curated many historic locations in Fort Madison.[32]
TheBNSFswing span double decker bridge was the longest double decker, swing span bridge in the world when it was constructed in 1927 at 3,140 feet long.
The North Lee County Courthouse is the oldest activecourthouse in the state, built in the 1840s.
The North Lee County Jail was constructed in 1867 and served as a smalljailhouse into the 1970s. It is now the site of tours hosted by the city on aBeggars Night celebration everyHalloween.
Brush College was built in the mid-1800s to replace the logone-room school.
Fort Madison has a Mayor/City Council form of government. The city council consists of a Mayor and seven council members. Five council members are elected from individual wards and two are elected at large. The mayor is elected in a citywide vote. TheIowa State Penitentiary, a maximum security institution for men, is in Fort Madison.
Fort Madison also has a Catholic School System,Holy Trinity Catholic Schools, which formed in 2005 from the merger ofAquinas Schools in Fort Madison with the West Point Catholic schools.[34] Holy Trinity High School consists of a junior/senior high school. Holy Trinity Elementary School is a few miles away inWest Point, Iowa.
^abcKnapp, Henry E. (1919). "General John Holly Knapp".The Wisconsin Magazine of History.2 (3). Wisconsin Historical Society:337–340.JSTOR4630171. — A biographical sketch of the first settler and founder of the new Fort Madison
^"Station: FT Madison, IA".U.S. Climate Normals 2020: U.S. Monthly Climate Normals (1991-2020). National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. RetrievedJune 25, 2021.
Black Hawk (1882)Autobiography of Ma-Ka-Tai-Me-She-Kia-Kiak or Black Hawk. Edited by J. B. Patterson. Continental Printing, St. Louis. Originally published 1833.
Jackson, Donald (1958) "Old Fort Madison 1808–1813."Palimpsest39(1).
Jackson, Donald (1960) "A Critic's View of Old Fort Madison."Iowa Journal of History and Politics58(1) 31–36.
Jackson, Donald (1966) "Old Fort Madison 1808–1813."Palimpsest47(1).
Prucha, Francis P. (1964)A Guide to the Military Posts of the United States 1789–1895. State Historical Society of Wisconsin, Madison.
Prucha, Francis P. (1969)The Sword of the Republic: The United States Army on the Frontier 1783–1846. Macmillan, New York.
McKusick, Marshall B. (1965). "Discovering an Ancient Iowa Fort".Iowa Conservationist.24 (1):6–7.
McKusick, Marshall B. (1966). "Exploring Old Fort Madison and Old Fort Atkinson".Iowan Magazine.15:12–51.
Van; der Zee, Jacob (1913). "Old Fort Madison: Some Source Materials".Iowa Journal of History and Politics.11:517–545.
Van; der Zee, Jacob (1914). "Forts in the Iowa County".Iowa Journal of History and Politics.12:163–204.
Van; der Zee, Jacob (1918). "Old Fort Madison: Early Wars on the Eastern Border of the Iowa Country".Iowa and War.7. Iowa City: State Historical Society of Iowa:1–40.