Flannel is a softwovenfabric of varying fineness. Flannel was originally made fromcardedwool orworsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool,cotton, orsynthetic fiber. Flannel is commonly used to maketartan clothing,blankets,bed sheets,sleepwear, and several other uses.
Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibres from the loosely spun yarns to form anap on one or both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form.
The term "flannel shirt" is often mistakenly used to refer to any shirt with aplaid or tartan pattern. However, 'flannel' refers simply to the fabric; not all flannel shirts are plaid and not all plaid shirts are flannel.
The word's origin is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back toWales, where it was well known as early as the 16th century. The fabric was called ''Welsh cotton'', and despite its name, it was a coarsewoolen material with a fluffed surface similar to flannel.[1][2]
The French termflanelle was used in the late 17th century, and the GermanFlanell was used in the early 18th century.[3]
Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as "cottons" orfriezes, coarse woolen cloth that was the localtextile product. In the 19th century, flannel was made particularly in towns such asNewtown, Montgomeryshire,[4]Hay on Wye,[5] andLlanidloes.[6] The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread ofcarding mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart fromfulling). The marketing of theseWelsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by theDrapers Company of Shrewsbury.[7][8][9]
Flannel became popular in the United States during the Civil War, when it was imported as an inexpensive, sturdy material for soldiers’ basic coats and undershirts. American entrepreneur Hamilton Carhartt is most credited with popularizing flannel garments in the USA. He opened a flannel-focused textile plant, the first of its kind, in Detroit in 1889. It was during the years following this introduction that the American middle class adopted the flannel shirt as a workwear staple.[10]
At one time, Welsh, Yorkshire, Lancashire, and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used, some being softer and finer than others. Dyes determine the flannel's color; this was achieved by mixing white, blue, brown, and black wools in varying proportions. Lighter shades were achieved by bleaching withsulphur dioxide.[11]
During the 1950s, Irish designerSybil Connolly, inspired by Aran Island and traditional Irish peasant skirts, designed a 'Red Flannel' skirt using red flannel wool.[12]
Originally, flannel was made of fine, shortstaple wool, but by the 20th century, mixtures ofsilk andcotton had become common. At this time, flannel trousers became popular in sports, especially cricket, and it was used extensively until the late 1970s. Flannelplaid shirts became popular teen wear in the early 1990s, being part of thegrunge style of bands likeNirvana andPearl Jam.[13]
Flannelette typically refers to a nappedcotton fabric imitating the texture of flannel. Theweft is generally coarser than thewarp. The flannel-like appearance is created by creating a nap from the weft; scratching it and raising it up. Flannelette can either have long or short nap, and can be napped on one or two sides. It comes in many colours, both solid and patterned.[14]
Baby flannel is a lightweight fabric used for childrenswear.[15]
Cotton flannel orCanton flannel is a cotton fabric napped on one or two sides.
Ceylon's flannel was a name for a wool and cotton mixture.[11]
Diaper flannel is a stout cotton fabric napped on both sides, and used for making clothdiapers.
Vegetable flannel, invented by Léopold Lairitz in Germany in the 1800s, uses fibres from theScots pine rather than wool.[16]
Flannel, flannelette, and cotton flannel can be woven in either atwill weave orplain weave. The weave is often hidden by napping on one or both sides. After weaving, it is napped once, thenbleached,dyed, or otherwise treated, and then napped a second time.[17]
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