Around a hundred years ago, and earlier, theharbour, with its depth, capacity and overall safety, had few equals in Europe; its entrance was very narrow,[7] commanded by forts, and could even be shut by aboom.[8][9][10]
Ferrol is one of the starting points of theEnglish Way[18] of theCamino de Santiago.[19] Due to the modern requirement thatpilgrims must travel 100 km (approx. 62 mi) by foot in order to be officially recognised, the city is a preferential starting point for those traversing the English Way.
The first historical mention of this settlement, then calledBurum[20][21][22] orArotebrarum Portum,[23] appears in the history ofPomponius Mela,[23] a Roman historian who in the year AD 43 detailing a description of thePortus Magnus Artabrorum,[24][25] the "great port of theArtabri". The current toponym Ferrol, though, can only be traced back to the Middle Ages; a document from 1087[26]mentions sancto Iuliano de Ferrol, near the monastery of San Martín de Jubia (12th century, inRomanesque style), where Ferrol is probably the local evolution of thegenitive form of theLatin name Ferreolus; Ferrol was probably, in origin, the estate of one Ferreolus.[27] In 1982 the government of Spain officially adopted the name Ferrol in accordance with its long history and tradition.[28][29]
Another theory about theetymology of the name Ferrol posits some relation to the Latin wordferro (iron), as the area has long been rich in metals, especially iron andtin, but alsogold andsilver. It is possible, since the bay of Ferrol was such a well guarded port, that the oldfishing village was named after the metal by traders[30] reaching the enclave.
Alternatively, the name may derive from the legend of a Breton saint,Ferreol, who supposedly arrived there on a ship amid a chorus of seven sirens.[citation needed] Another tradition says that Ferrol comes from farol, alluding to the heraldic figure that appears on the coat of arms of the city.[31] However, according to experts, the coat of arms of Ferrol dates back only to the eighteenth century.[32]
The existence of prehistoric human settlements in the area that would later become Ferrol is suggested by the abundance ofburial chambers andmegalithic monuments, as well aspetroglyphs and other archaeological findings.[33] ThePhoenicians[34][30][35] established in this area severaldried and salted cod stations and their presence, together with that of theAncient Greeks, is well documented by such classical historians asHerodotus,Strabo,Pomponius Mela, andPtolemy.[36] InRoman times, in the 1st century BC, a fishing port existed which also traded in metals (like silver,[37] gold,[38][39]tin[40] and iron[41]), and wild horses.[40] Near Ferrol[42] there is a place called Naraío[43] (famous for its medieval castle), whose name bears aphonetic resemblance Strabo's Nerium,[33]modern dayCape Prior.[42] In ancientHispania, these parts of theIberia were dominated by theArtabri[44] (or Arrotrebae[45][46]), who gave their name to the Portus Magnus Artabrorum ("Great Port of the Artabri"),[42] formed not only by the bay of Ferrol butthe three rias of Ferrol,Betanzos and A Coruña. Ferrol was then, as it is today, a first class natural harbour in the treacherous waters[34] of the Atlantic, and very well guarded. Historically, it has often been described as the best natural port in Europe.[47]
Following the collapse of the Suebic-Visigothic state, theseChristian parts of Iberia saw very little change in comparison with other parts of the peninsula, becoming part of theKingdom of Asturias[3] as early as 750AD.[51][52] Over time, the Kingdom of Asturias[53] would split into further Christian kingdoms, causing the area to change hands several times betweenGalicia,Leon, and finallyCastile.
The castle ofSan Felipe at the entrance of the harbour
During the Second Crusade Ferrol played a significant role when the crusade ships organised by Pope Eugene III en route to the Holy Land, sought refuge in its bay due to the rough waters they encountered after leaving Dartmouth and the English Channel in the Atlantic in May 1147AD when the contingent carrying 6,000 English and Scottish crusaders just joined a continental fleet of 5,000 Germans and 2,000 Flemish crusaders numbering all together a total 164 ships that needed a safe haven and some of the ships repairs and resupplying. Once in the safety of the bay of Ferrol they did have time to visit neighbouring Santiago de Compostela on 24th May 1147AD to celebrate Pentecost Day in the City of St. James the Great where they visited his Holy Remains. The sea journey to the Holy Land continued but another storm in the Atlantic forced the fleet to dock at Porto where they met King Alfonso I of Portugal who convince them to join forces in order to take the enclave of Lisbon from the Saracens and that's how the best port in the Iberian Peninsula fell to into Christian hands on 25th October 1147AD becoming integral part of the Kingdom of Portugal straight away and from 1255AD its very own capital.
In 1568[58][59] a fire reduced the old medieval town to rubble;[60] in the same period some parts of the existing fortifications at the entrance of theestuary were built.[61] The town was considered more important as a royal arsenal at this time than as a harbour.[62][63]
With the arrival of theBourbons in the 18th century, Ferrol became a leading naval centre.[64] Ferrol was made capital of the Maritime Department of the North, formed underFerdinand VI andCharles III for the defence of theSpanish Colonial Empire in America.[65] Rapid improvements followed, notably under the leadership of theMarquis of Ensenada, and the position of Ferrol was made almost unassailable from the sea, the difficulties of disembarking troops on its precipitous coast being strengthened by a renewed line of fortresses and newly built castles, including that of San Carlos.
Ferrol is famous[71] in the history of the struggle between theSpanish Empire and theBritish for being one of the only enclaves in the world, together withCartagena de Indias, that always resisted occupation successfully; Ferrol was virtually impossible toblockade in theage of sail, as strong westerly winds would take any blockading force away along the treacherous north coast of Spain towards theCosta da Morte (Coast of Death), where they had no safe haven. The geography of Ferrol meant that an entire Spanish fleet could slip out on a single tide. By the time the British were able to resume the blockade, the Spanish would be safely away and out to sea. Despite these advantages, a decline set in during the reign ofCharles IV, and in 1800, during theFerrol Expedition, after the defences had been reduced, a British fleet of 109 vessels landed troops on the beach ofDoniños to take the Castle of San Felipe. Although only equipped with meagre artillery, the castle's small defence force under the command Count Donadio, together with a sizable number of volunteer citizens of Ferrol, successfully resisted the attack and the fleet withdrew. The alliance with theUnited Kingdom during thePeninsular War of 1808–1814 failed to prevent the deterioration in the town's fortunes. The arsenals and fortresses were abandoned and they were easilyoccupied by the French in 1809.[72]
When the war withNapoleonic France was over, many of the South American colonies[73] chose to pursue independence from Spain and the shipyards of Ferrol went into a serious decline, losing most of their civilian, clergy and military population. By 1824, Ferrol had a population of just 10,000 civilians and about 6,000 military personnel (stationed locally, if not permanently, at least during most of the year). Its mathematical school for marine artillerists, the pilot school, and the Spanish Royal Academy of Naval Engineers[74] were almost completely empty, in stark contrast to the glorious years of abundance[75][76] before theBattle of Trafalgar in 1805.[77]
Aerial view of the city (2009)
Ferrol built only twoships of the line between 1794 and 1845,[78][79] although nine frigates and a considerable number of smaller warships were also constructed in this period. After half a century of decreased activity, it lost its title of capital underFerdinand VII. However, there was a massive renovation during the leadership of Cardinal Alberoni and in just a few years fourteen great line-of-battle-ships were launched. New activities sprang up and Ferrol was employing 2,000 workmen[80] in its foundries, now in full operation. A School of Naval Engineers[79] was established where 40 students were taught the scientific principles of their profession by competent instructors educated in England and France. So successful in bringing the world's most advanced technologies was the administration of theMarquis de Molina,[81] the Spanish Minister for Naval affairs, that by 1858 the Royal Dockyards of Ferrol were launching Spain's first steam propelled ship, which was also its firstiron-hulled sailing ship.
The second half of the 19th century brought to the Royal Dockyards of Ferrol not only employment, but also concomitant social and political tensions,[82][83] which culminated in the failed republican uprising of 1872.[84][85] Steamers between Ferrol and the port ofHavana inSpanish Cuba were in frequent operation at the time, such that shipyard workers who got into trouble with the local authorities in Ferrol often fled to theSpanish Main.[86][87]
Art Nouveau building in Ferrol, designed by Rodolfo Ucha
From the days of the Armada to the present, the Bay of Ferrol has attracted numerous ships seeking repairs or refuge after meeting with disaster[88][89] or rough waters trying to cross the Bay of Biscay in bad weather. Such was the case ofCleopatra, carrying one of the two Cleopatra Needles,[90][91] which stands today on the Thames Embankment in London, UK. It arrived in Ferrol on 19 October 1877 after almost sinking off the west coast of France five days earlier. A plaque commemorating the event and those who died can be seen at the base of the Needle in London.
For a period of sixteen years, the technicians were exclusively British, and the situation was not altered till 1925, when management was taken over by Spanish engineers. This was one of the new policies introduced by the newly installed government of the dictatorMiguel Primo de Rivera[102] (1923–1930). The arrival of the British coincided with the construction of a localtram system (1924–1961).[103]
In view of the outbreak of theSpanish Civil War, and due to the fear of social unrest in the naval station, theForeign Office in London[104][105] organized a ship to repatriate all the remaining British citizens. On 22 July 1936,HMSWitch[106] left Ferrol bound for Britain.At the beginning of the war, the shipbuilding yards, workshops, foundries and dry docks in Ferrol were taken over by the state. They were fullynationalized in 1945 under the name "Bazán", later renamed "IZAR", and, from January 2005,Navantia. The town was the birthplace ofFrancisco Franco, after whom the city was officially known asEl Ferrol del Caudillo from 1938 to 1982. The end of theSpanish State and thearrival of democracy in 1978 did little to arrest Ferrol's economic decline,[107][108] and from 1982 to the early 1990s, the city faced numerous problems due to the waning of thenaval sector. The beginning of the new millennium, however, has been a time of economic expansion and prosperity in general.[109] A new motorway and anouter-port[110] have been built, as have numerous arcades and shopping centres, mostly in the outskirts of the city between Ferrol and Naron. Young shoppers and their families frequent the stores and enjoy weekend days out with amenities like bowling, cafeterias, fast food outlets, cinemas and sports facilities.
The Spanish Navy Spanish Squadron[111][112] still takes part innaval demonstrations and in June 2008 Ferrol hosted the largeNATO Maritime Exercise Loyal Mariner (RN).[113]
The Ferrol Terminus railway station, connectingLugo to Ferrol, branching off from the line fromMadrid to nearby A Coruña, was sanctioned by the Cortes in Madrid as early as 1865 but was not finally inaugurated until 1904. A century later, the High SpeedAVE Railway suffered similar delays, eventually opening in 2013.[114]
In September 2017,[115] a new local railway branch serving the outer port of Ferrol (known as the Canelinas-Ferrol container port), the inside of the bay docks and the Ferrol Terminus railway station was given the green light to begin construction, and aims to move large numbers modern containers in and out of Ferrol, distributing goods throughout Galicia and the rest of Spain and Europe. A small railway local branch operated here in the early years of the 20th century. At that time, Ferrol itself and its ports were intended solely for the Royal Navy and its shipyards,[70] and hence were not open to the general commerce per se. Historically, however, there have been many exceptions, with local businesses including PEMSA (timber), PYSBE (dried and salted cod) and HISPANIA (pencils), in addition tomanufacturers of hats,paper andleather, plus naval and hardware stores. Items such ascorn,wine,brandy,vinegar,pilchards andherrings (and other produce from Ferrol's own fisheries) have also been exported.[116]
Like much of Galicia, Ferrol has a humidoceanic climate, characterised by year-long mild temperatures, rainy winters, and relatively dry summers, although it is slightly wetter than the typical SpanishMediterranean climate during the summer season.
As of 2024, the foreign-born population is 6,135, equal to 9.5% of the total population. The 5 largest foreign nationalities areColombians (1,057),Venezuelans (655),Cubans (584),Moroccans (480) andBrazilians (424).[2]
^abTofiño de San Miguel, Vicente; Mengs, Anton Raphael; Salvador Carmona, Manuel; Ballester, Joaquín; Vázquez, Bartolomé; Valdés, Antonio; Asensio, Josef (1789).Atlas marítimo de España [Material cartográfico]. Madrid: [s.n.] p. 35.
^abWilliam of Malmesbury; Henry of Huntingdon; Roger of Hoveden; Ethelwerd; Ingulf; Savile, Henry; Bishop, George; Newbery, Ralph; Barker, Robert (1596).Rervm anglicarvm scriptores post Bedam praecipvi. London: G. Bishop, R. Nyberie, & R. Barker. pp. 172.
^Young, Otis E. (1965). "The Spanish Tradition in Gold and Silver Mining".Arizona and the West.7 (4):299–314.JSTOR40167137.
^Spiering, E.D; Pevida, L.R; Maldonado, C.; González, S.; Garcia, J.; Varela, A.; Arias, D.; Martı́n-Izard, A. (1 November 2000). "The gold belts of western Asturias and Galicia (NW Spain)".Journal of Geochemical Exploration.71 (2):89–101.doi:10.1016/S0375-6742(00)00147-3.ISSN0375-6742.
^William of Malmesbury; Henry of Huntingdon; Roger of Hoveden; Ethelwerd; Ingulf; Savile, Henry; Bishop, George; Newbery, Ralph; Barker, Robert (1596).Rervm anglicarvm scriptores post Bedam praecipvi. London: G. Bishop, R. Nyberie, & R. Barker. pp. 174–178.
^Tofiño de San Miguel, Vicente; Mengs, Anton Raphael; Salvador Carmona, Manuel; Ballester, Joaquín; Vázquez, Bartolomé; Valdés, Antonio; Asensio, Josef (1789).Atlas marítimo de España [Material cartográfico]. Madrid: [s.n.] p. 21.
^This is a very special day becauseSaint Julian[dubious –discuss] is thepatron saint of Ferrol. On this day all the locals enjoy having a gorgeous traditional sweet rice pudding following a local recipe as they have been doing for so long that nobody can tell for sure when this ancient tradition really started.
^OnSaint Josephine's Night all the men of Ferrol take to the streets with their guitars and other musical instruments, wearing traditional gear design for purpose, to sing beautiful songs to every woman young and old, particularly those with the name Josephine or "Peppa" (which means Josephine in Spanish, hence "Noche de la Pepitas", literally "Night of the young Peppas").
^Every year at the end of the Holy Week the city of Ferrol celebrates a bank holiday devoted to theHoly Virgin Mary at mount Chamorro where a shrine was built by theAndrade family about a century earlier than the discovery of the Americas byChristopher Columbus in 1492.
^For"Corpus Christi"Ares and other localities ofFerrolterra, following an ancient Christian tradition, celebrate and rejoice plentiful in style, covering themain streets of their city centres with colourful flowery carpets.
^St. John's Eve (or Bonfire Night) is celebrated in all the parishes ofFerrolterra with the lighting of bonfires.
^This special day is celebrated in different ways throughout the different parishes ofFerrolterra; while some of them enjoy preparing beautiful floral offerings dedicated to theVirgin Mary pretty much in the"Corpus Christi" carpets fashion, others are more inclined to organize a small sea or landprocession if not a food party.
^In different parts ofFerrolterra, particularly in theSierra da Capelada wherehorse breeding is an important industry, there is an interesting celebration ofCeltic roots involving food, music and horses. This is a"Rapa das Bestas" where the newly born horses are marked and have their hair cut as the major part of the event. Of course, the whole event and festivity is open to all visitors.
^Usually involves different activities like theatrical performances, rock concerts, fireworks and all sorts of organized entertainment.
^Literally, a re-enactment of the battle which took place in Ferrol between the British and the localSpaniards in the year 1800 where the British, the belligerent force, were driven out from their attempt to capture the most important naval station of Spain in northernIberia. There were well founded reasons for the British to believe that the Spaniards were going to take side withNapoléon a few years later. And this was exactly what happened.(in Spanish)Website of the voluntaries from Madrid 1808–1814
