Ernest Daltroff | |
|---|---|
| Born | Ernest Léon René Lucien Daltroff (1867-11-17)17 November 1867 Sainte-Cécile, Saône-et-Loire, France |
| Died | 3 February 1941(1941-02-03) (aged 73) New York, US |
| Occupations |
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| Known for | FoundingParfums Caron |
Ernest Daltroff (17 November 1867 – 3 February 1941), was a Frenchperfumer and the founder ofParfums Caron in 1904.
Ernest Léon René Lucien Daltroff was born to an upper middle class family originally from Russia. His mother Ida-Caroline Bing used to put a drop of her perfume behind her son's ears before bed as a child.[1]
In his youth Ernest Daltroff travelled and then worked in the clothing industry.In 1900, he visited theExposition Universelle.[2]
Shortly after, as he memorised the captivating scents of flowers, fruits and spices and developed an exceptional olfactory memory, without any formal training, he chose to embark on the profession of perfumer.[1]
In 1903, with his brother Raoul, he established a workshop inAsnières-sur-Seine in the former perfumery "Emilia", 12 avenue de la Lauzière. Then in 1904, at the age of thirty-seven, he set up his company in premises located in the heart of Paris, at 10rue de la Paix. Already planning to reach an international market,[3] he partly adopted the name of the small "Mercerie Parfumerie Caron" at 20 rue Rossini (9th arrondissement of Paris), bought from Madame Anne-Marie Caron on 1 August 1903. He chose "Parfums Caron", a short name easily remembered and pronounced in several languages while still being associated with France, rather than his own foreign sounding name, in a country still troubled by theDreyfus affair.[4]
In 1906, he met Félicie Wanpouille, a youngmilliner who worked on the same rue de la Paix; She introduced him to her clients and became his collaborator and muse.
While Daltroff created fragrances, Wanpouille designed bottles and served as an artistic director,[5] together they launched great women's perfumes such asNarcisse Noir in 1911,N'aimez Que Moi in 1917.
After World War I, in 1918, Ernest Daltroff was invited to attend theBronx International Exposition of Science, Arts and Industries in New York with his competitorFrançois Coty. He won the prize for the most go ahead company, which opened up the American market for him during theinter-war period.[6]
Many creations followed, including:Tabac Blond,En Avion,Fleurs De Rocaille andNuit de Noël;[7] In his innovative palette, like François Coty, Daltroff often incorporated the bases produced byMr. Naef and the Fabriques de Laire, in particularMousse de Saxe.[8]
In 1923 a Caron boutique was opened onFifth Avenue in New York.[9][10]In 1932, Daltroff marries Madeleine Briet (1888-1987),[11] and in 1934, Ernest Daltroff, who was always convinced that a man should wear perfume, launchedPour Un Homme, at a time, when men mainly usedcologne.
In 1939, the rise ofantisemitism led Ernest Daltroff to take refuge in the United States,[12] arriving early 1940 on boardThe Manhattan and registering atEllis Island.[13] In France, Félicie took over the reins of the house until 1962 with Michel Morsetti, a perfumer trained by Daltroff. Ernest Daltroff never returned to Europe, and died in New York on February 3, 1941.
In 2000, in homage to Ernest Daltroff, perfumer Richard Fraysse created for the house of Caron,Lady Caron presented in a bottle engraved with theStatue of Liberty. "The challenge was, fifty years later, to imagine what Daltroff would have liked to create for the American woman".
Ernest Daltroff is described by Nathalie Chahine as the most subtle perfumer of his time whose work was closest to that of painters and musicians.[14] His legacy continues in the world of perfume and still influences modern perfumers, saysMichael Edwards.[15]