| Dunagiri | |
|---|---|
 Dunagiri from the Kuari Pass | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 7,066 m (23,182 ft) |
| Prominence | c. 1,200 m (3,900 ft)[1] |
| Coordinates | 30°31′57″N79°50′02″E / 30.53250°N 79.83389°E /30.53250; 79.83389 |
| Geography | |
  Dunagiri Location in Uttarakhand, India | |
| Location | Uttarakhand, India |
| Parent range | Nanda Devi Group,GarhwalHimalayas |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 5 July 1939 byAndré Roch, F. Steuri, D. Zogg[2] |
| Easiest route | southwest ridge: rock/snow/ice climb |
Dunagiri (7,066 m) is one of the high peaks of theChamoli DistrictHimalayas in the northern Indian state ofUttarakhand. It lies at the northwest corner of the Sanctuary Wall, a ring of peaks surroundingNanda Devi and enclosing theNanda Devi Sanctuary.
According toRamayana, Sanjeevani is a magical herb that has the power to cure serious nervous system problems. It was believed that medicines prepared from this herb could revive someone when death was almost certain. The herb is mentioned in theRamayana whenRavana's sonIndrajit (Meghnath) hurls a powerful weapon atLakshmana. Lakshmana is badly wounded and is nearly killed.Hanuman was called upon to fetch this herb from MountDronagiri (Mahodaya) or theGandhamardhan hills, far to the north of the Vindhyas on the slopes of the Himalayas. The mountain of herbs is identified as the Valley of Flowers near Badri in Uttarakhand on the slopes of the Himalayas. It is sometimes called Gandhamardan, and at other times Dronagiri. Upon reaching Dronagiri Parvata or Gandhamardan, Hanuman could not identify the herb and lifted the whole mountain and brought it to the battlefield.[3]
Dunagiri was first climbed on 5 July 1939[4] by the Swiss climbersAndré Roch,F. Steuri andD. Zogg,[5] via the southwest ridge. In 1975,Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw climbed a particularly difficult route on the southeast buttress in a significant milestone for alpine-style climbing.[6] In 1978 the first Australian Himalayan expedition by the Australian National University Mountaineering Club made the fourth ascent via the south-west ridge.[7]Lincoln Hall andTim Macartney-Snape made the final summit attempt with Macartney-Snape successfully summiting.
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