Dumfries
| |
|---|---|
| Town andadministrative centre | |
 Skyline of Dumfries Town Centre, with theRiver Nith in the foreground | |
  Dumfries Location withinDumfries and Galloway | |
| Population | 33,470 (2022)[2] |
| Demonym | Doonhamer |
| OS grid reference | NX976762 |
| • Edinburgh | 63 mi (101 km) |
| • London | 285 mi (459 km) |
| Council area | |
| Lieutenancy area | |
| Country | Scotland |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Post town | DUMFRIES |
| Postcode district | DG1, DG2 |
| Dialling code | 01387 |
| Police | Scotland |
| Fire | Scottish |
| Ambulance | Scottish |
| UK Parliament | |
| Scottish Parliament | |
| 55°04′12″N3°36′11″W / 55.070°N 3.603°W /55.070; -3.603 | |
Dumfries (/dʌmˈfriːs/ ⓘdum-FREESS;Scots:Dumfries; fromScottish Gaelic:Dùn PhrisScottish Gaelic pronunciation:[ˌt̪unˈfɾʲiʃ]) is a market town and formerroyal burgh inDumfries and Galloway, Scotland, near the mouth of theRiver Nith on theSolway Firth, 25 miles (40 km) from theAnglo-Scottish border. Dumfries is thecounty town of thehistoric county ofDumfriesshire.[3]
Before becomingKing of Scots,Robert the Bruce killed his rivalJohn Comyn III of Badenoch at Greyfriars Kirk in the town in 1306. TheYoung Pretender had his headquarters here towards the end of 1745. InWorld War II, theNorwegian armed forces in exile in Britain largely consisted of abrigade in Dumfries.
Dumfries is nicknamedQueen of the South.[4] This is also the name of the town'sfootball club. People from Dumfries are known colloquially inScots language asDoonhamers.
There are a number of theories on the etymology of the name, with an ultimatelyCeltic derivation (either fromBrythonic,Gaelic or a mixture of both) considered the most likely.
The first element is derived either from the elementsdrum ordronn-,[5] (meaning "ridge" or "hump", also inGaelic asdruim[5]), or fromDùn meaning fort. One of the more commonly given etymologies is that the nameDumfries originates from theScottish Gaelic nameDùn Phris, meaning "Fort of the Thicket".[6]
The second element is less obvious, but may be cognate with theCumbricprēs, an element common in theBrythonic areas south of the River Forth.[5] As such, Dumfries has been suggested as a possible location ofPenprys, the mysterious capital of a land inMedieval Welsh literature, most notably mentioned in theawdl, "Elegy for Gwallawg" byTaliesin.[5]
According to a third theory, the name is a corruption of twoOld English orOld Norse words which mean "the Friars' Hill"; those who favour this idea allege the formation of a religious house near the head of what is now the Friars' Vennel.[7] If the name were English or Norse, however, the expected form would have the elements in reversed orientation (compareClarendon). A Celtic derivation is therefore preferred.
There is no definite record about the time and manner of Dumfries's founding.[7] Some writers hold that Dumfries flourished as a place of distinction during theRoman occupation of North Great Britain. TheSelgovae inhabitedNithsdale at the time and may have raised some military works of a defensive nature on or near the site of Dumfries; and it is more than probable that a castle of some kind formed the nucleus of the town. This is inferred from the etymology of the name, which, according to one theory, is resolvable into twoGaelic terms signifying a castle or fort in thecopse or brushwood. Dumfries was once within the borders of the Kingdom of Northumbria. The district around Dumfries was for several centuries ruled over and deemed of much importance by the invading Romans. Many traces of Roman presence in Dumfriesshire are still to be found; coins, weapons, sepulchral remains, military earthworks, and roads being among the relics left by their lengthened sojourn in this part of Scotland. TheCaledonian tribes in the south of Scotland were invested with the same rights by an edict ofAntoninus Pius. The Romanized natives received freedom (the burrows, cairns, and remains of stone temples still to be seen in the district tell of a time whenDruidism was the prevailing religion) as well as civilisation from their conquerors. Late in the fourth century, the Romans bade farewell to the country.[7]
According to another theory, the name is a corruption of two words which mean the Friars' Hill; those who favour this idea allege thatSt. Ninian, by planting a religious house near the head of what is now the Friars' Vennel, at the close of the fourth century, became the virtual founder of the Burgh; however Ninian, so far as is known, did not originate any monastic establishments anywhere and was simply a missionary. In the list of British towns given by the ancient historianNennius, the nameCaer Peris occurs, which some modern antiquarians suppose to have been transmuted, by a change of dialect, into Dumfries.[7]
Twelve ofKing Arthur's battles were recorded byNennius inHistoria Brittonum. The Battle of Tribruit (the tenth battle), has been suggested as having possibly been near Dumfries or near the mouth of theriver Avon nearBo'ness. After the Roman departure the area around Dumfries had various forms of visit byPicts,Anglo-Saxons,Scots andNorse culminating in a decisive victory forGregory, King of Scots at what is nowLochmaben over the nativeBritons in 890.[7]
When, in 1069,Malcolm Canmore andWilliam the Conqueror held a conference regarding the claims ofEdgar Ætheling to the English Crown, they met at Abernithi – a term which in the old British tongue means a port at the mouth of the Nith. Abernithi may have been Dumfries; and therefore it may have existed as a port in the Kingdom of Strathclyde, if not in the Roman days. However, against this argument is that the town is situated eight to nine miles (13 to 14 km) distant from the sea,[7] although theRiver Nith is tidal and navigable all the way into the town itself.
Although at the time 1 mile (1.6 km) upstream and on the opposite bank of the Nith from Dumfries,Lincluden Abbey was founded circa 1160. The abbey ruins are on the site of thebailey of the very early Lincluden Castle, as are those of the later Lincluden Tower. This religious house was used for various purposes, until its abandonment around 1700. Lincluden Abbey and its grounds are now within the Dumfries urban conurbation boundary.William the Lion granted the charter to raise Dumfries to the rank of aroyal burgh in 1186. Dumfries was very much on the frontier during its first 50 years as a burgh and it grew rapidly as a market town and port.[8]
Alexander III visited Dumfries in 1264 to plan an expedition against theIsle of Man, previously Scots but for 180 years subjected by the crown of Norway. Identified with the conquest of Man, Dumfries shared in the well-being of Scotland for the next 22 years until Alexander's accidental death brought an Augustan era in the town's history to an abrupt finish.[7] A royal castle, which no longer exists, was built in the 13th century on the site of the present Castledykes Park. In the latter part of the centuryWilliam Wallace chased a fleeing English force southward through the Nith valley. The force made it to the gates ofDumfries Castle which was closed to them. With a body of the town's people joining Wallace and his fellow pursuers when they arrived, the English force was annihilated at Cockpool on theSolway Coast. After resting atCaerlaverock Castle a few miles away from the bloodletting, Wallace again passed through Dumfries the day after as he returned north toSanquhar Castle.[9]
During the invasion of 1300,Edward I of England lodged for a few days in June with the Minorite Friars of the Vennel, before he laid siege to Caerlaverock Castle at the head of the then greatest invasion force to attack Scotland. After Caerlaverock eventually succumbed, Edward passed through Dumfries again as he crossed the Nith to take his invasion intoGalloway. With the Scottish nobility having requestedVatican support for their cause, Edward on his return to Caerlaverock was presented with a missive directed to him byPope Boniface VIII. Edward held court in Dumfries at which he grudgingly agreed to an armistice. On 30 October, the truce solicited by Pope Boniface was signed by Edward at Dumfries. Letters from Edward, dated at Dumfries, were sent to his subordinates throughout Scotland, ordering them to give effect to the treaty. The peace was to last until Whitsunday in the following year.[7]
Before becomingKing of Scots,Robert the Bruce stabbed his rival theRed Comyn at Greyfriars Kirk in the town on 10 February 1306. Bruce's uncertainty about the fatality of the stabbing caused one of his followers,Roger de Kirkpatrick, to utter the famous, "I mak siccar" ("I make sure") and finish the Comyn off. Bruce was subsequently excommunicated as a result, less for the murder than for its location in a church. Regardless, for Bruce the die was cast at the moment in Greyfriars and so began his campaign by force for the independence of Scotland. Swords were drawn by supporters of both sides, the burial ground of the monastery becoming the theatre of battle. Bruce and his party then attacked Dumfries Castle. The English garrison surrendered and for the third time in the day Bruce and his supporters were victorious. He was crowned King of Scots barely seven weeks after. Bruce later triumphed at theBattle of Bannockburn, which confirmed Scotland's independence in the conflict.
Once Edward received word of the revolution that had started in Dumfries, he again raised an army and invaded Scotland. Dumfries was again subjected to the control of Bruce's enemies. SirChristopher Seton (Bruce's brother in law) had been captured atLoch Doon and was hurried to Dumfries to be tried for treason in general and more specifically for being present at Comyn's killing. Still in 1306 and along with two companions, Seton was condemned and executed byhanging and thenbeheading at the site of what is now St Mary's Church.
In 1659 ten women were accused of diverse acts of witchcraft by Dumfries Kirk Session although the Kirk Session minutes itself records nine witches. The Justiciary Court found them guilty of the several articles of witchcraft and on 13 April between 2 pm and 4 pm they were taken to the Whitesands, strangled at stakes and their bodies burnt to ashes.[10]
TheMidsteeple in the centre of the High Street was completed in 1707.[11] Opposite the fountain in the High Street, adjacent to the presentMarks & Spencer, was the Commercial and later the County Hotel. Although the latter was demolished in 1984–85, the original facade of the building was retained and incorporated into new retail premises.[12] The building now houses a Waterstones Bookshop. Room No. 6 of the hotel was known asBonnie Prince Charlie's Room and appropriately carpeted in theRoyal Stewart tartan. The timber panelling of "Prince Charlie's room" was largely reinstated and painted complete with the oil painted landscapes by Robert Norie (1720–1766) in the overmantels at either end of the room and can still be seen as the upstairs showroom of the book shop.[13] TheYoung Pretender had his headquarters here during a 3-day sojourn in Dumfries towards the end of 1745. £2,000 was demanded by the Prince, together with 1,000 pairs of brogues for his kiltedJacobite rebel army, which was camping in a field not one hundred yards distant. A rumour that theDuke of Cumberland was approaching, made Bonnie Prince Charlie decide to leave with his army, with only £1,000 and 255 pairs of shoes having been handed over.[14]
Robert Burns moved to Dumfriesshire in 1788 and Dumfries itself in 1791, living there until his death on 21 July 1796. Today's Greyfriars Church overlooks the location of a statue of Burns, which was designed byAmelia Robertson Hill, sculpted inCarrara, Italy in 1882, and was unveiled by futurePrime Minister,Archibald Primrose, 5th Earl of Rosebery on 6 April 1882.[15] Today, it features on the 2007 series of£5 notes issued by the Bank of Scotland, alongside theBrig o' Doon.[16]
After working withPatrick Miller of Dalswinton, inventorWilliam Symington intended to carry out a trial in order to show than an engine would work on a boat without the boat catching fire. The trial finally took place on Dalswinton Loch near Dumfries on 14 October 1788. The experiment demonstrated that a steam engine would work on a boat. Symington went on to become the builder of the first practicalsteamboat.
The first official intimation thatRAF Dumfries was to be built was made in late 1938. The site chosen had accommodated light aircraft since about 1914. Work progressed quickly, and on 17 June 1940, the18 Maintenance Unit was opened at Dumfries. The role of the base during the war also encompassed training. RAF Dumfries had a moment of danger on 25 March 1943, when a GermanDornier Do 217 aircraft shot up the airfield beacon, but crashed shortly afterwards. The pilot,Oberleutnant Martin Piscke was later interred inTroqueer Cemetery in Dumfries town, with full military honours. On the night of 3/4 August 1943 aVickers Wellington bomber with engine problems diverted to but crashed1+1⁄2 miles (2.4 km) short of the Dumfries runway.[17]
During theSecond World War, the bulk of theNorwegian armed forces in exile in Britain consisted of abrigade in Dumfries.[18] When the army High Command took over, there were 70 officers and about 760privates in the camp. The camp was established in June 1940 and namedNorwegian Reception Camp, consisting of some 500 men and women, mainly foreign-Norwegian who had volunteered for war duty in Norway during theNazi occupation in early 1940. Through the summer the number was built up to around 1,500 under the command ofGeneralCarl Gustav Fleischer. Within a few miles of Dumfries are the villages ofTinwald,Torthorwald andMouswald all of which were settled byVikings.
Dumfries has experienced twoBoxing Day earthquakes. These were in 1979 (measuring 4.7 ML centred nearLongtown)[19] and 2006 (centred in the Dumfries locality measuring 3.6 ML ).[20] There were no serious consequences of either. There was also an earthquake on 16 February 1984[21] and a further earthquake on 7 June 2010.[22]
The National Records for Scotland mid 2012 estimated population of Dumfries was reported as 33,280.[23][24]
The2022 Scottish census revealed that 57% of the towns population identifies as having 'no religion', slightly higher than the Scotland wide figure of 51%. 35% identified as Christian (24%Church of Scotland, 8%Catholic and 4% other Christian) while 2% identified with another religion. 5% didn't answer question in the census as it was optional.[25]
A number of the local and chapels are notable architectural landmarks. St Michael's Church, built between 1761 and 1746, on the site of earlier places of worship dating back to the 12th century.[26] The church has a number of connections to the poetRobert Burns, and he was initially buried in its churchyard. In 1815, his remains were moved to a grand mausoleum in the south-east corner of the churchyard, where his wifeJean Armour and several family members are also interred.[27]
Greyfriars Church constructed between 1866 and 1867 in the Gothic style, stands on a site that was once partly occupied by a Franciscan monastery and partly by the town's old castle. St Mary's Church, another Gothic edifice built between 1837 and 1839, was erected on the location of a small chapel dedicated byChristina Bruce, to her husbandChristopher Seton, who was executed there byEdward I. It was put up for sale in 2024 by theChurch of Scotland for £38,000.[28]
St Andrew's Church, built from 1811 to 1813 in the Romanesque style, serves as a Roman Catholic church and the pro-cathedral of the Diocese of Galloway.[29] In 1851, Samuel Lewis described additional places of worship, noting the construction of an Episcopal chapel in 1817 at the cost of £2200. He also mentioned the presence of Free Church, United Presbyterian Church, Reformed Presbyterian, Independent, and Wesleyan chapels, as well as a Roman Catholic chapel.[30]
Dumfries has several primary schools, approximately one per key district, and four main secondary schools. All of these institutions are governed byDumfries and Galloway council. The secondary schools areDumfries Academy,Maxwelltown High School,St Joseph's College and Dumfries High School. Dumfries Academy was agrammar school until adopting a comprehensive format in 1983. In 2013 plans for a 'super school' were announced. These plans were later dismissed in favour of renovating existing schools.[31]
In 1999 Scotland's first multi-institutional university campus was established in Dumfries, in the 85-acre (340,000 m2) Crichton estate. In order of campus presence it is host to theUniversity of the West of Scotland (UWS) (formerly known as University of Paisley & Bell College),Dumfries & Galloway College, and theUniversity of Glasgow. Still in its infancy, the campus offers a range of degree courses in initial teacher education, business, computing, environmental studies, tourism, heritage, social work, health, social studies, nursing, liberal arts and humanities.[32][33] Despite the short-lived threat of closure to the University of Glasgow part of the campus in 2006, a campaign by students, academics and local supporters ensured that the University of Glasgow remained open in Dumfries. The University of Glasgow, since maintaining its provision in Dumfries, has launched a new undergraduate programme in primary teaching.[34]
Dumfries and Galloway Royal Infirmary is the principal secondary care referral centre for Dumfries and Galloway region. It now includes a maternity wing which replaced the old Cresswell Maternity Hospital.
Midpark Hospital, close to the site of the former Crichton Royal Hospital, is part of the Dumfries and Galloway NHS Board and provides a regional psychiatric, psychological and specialist addictions service within Dumfries and Galloway. In 1838William A. F. Browne accepted the position of Physician Superintendent at the newly created Crichton. It is at the Crichton whereUrsula Fleming gained much of her education and experience.
Like the rest of Dumfries and Galloway, of Scotland's three major geographical areas Dumfries lies in theSouthern Uplands. The river Nith runs through Dumfries toward the Solway Firth in a southwards direction splitting the town into East and West. At low tide, the sea recedes to such an extent on the shallow sloping sands of the Solway that the length of the Nith is extended by 13 km to 113.8 km (70.7 mi). This makes the Nith Scotland's seventh longest river. There are several bridges across the river within the town. In between the Devorgilla Bridge (also known as 'The Old Bridge') and the suspension bridge is aweir colloquially known as 'The Caul'. In wetter months of the year the Nith can flood the surrounding streets. The Whitesands has flooded on average once a year since 1827.[35]
Dumfries has numerous suburbs includingSummerhill, Summerville, Troqueer, Georgetown, Cresswell, Larchfield, Calside, Lochside, Lincluden,Newbridge Drive, Sandside,Heathhall,Locharbriggs, Noblehill and Marchmount.Maxwelltown to the west of the river Nith, was formerly a burgh in its own right withinKirkcudbrightshire until its incorporation into Dumfries in 1929; Summerhill, Troqueer, Lochside, Lincluden, Sandside are among other suburbs located on the Maxwelltown side of the river.Palmerston Park, home to the town's senior football teamQueen of the South, is on Terregles Street, also on the Maxwelltown side of the river.
Queensberry Square and High Street are the central focal points of the town and this area hosts many of the historical, social and commercial enterprises and events of Dumfries. During the 1990s, these areas enjoyed various aesthetic recognitions from organisations includingBritain in Bloom.
As with the rest of theBritish Isles, Dumfries experiences amaritime climate (Cfb) with cool summers and mild winters. It is one of the less snowy locations in Scotland owing to its sheltered, low lying position in the South West of the country. From 2 July 1908 the town held the record for the highest temperature reading in Scotland, 32.8 °C (91.0 °F) until being surpassed inGreycrook on 9 August 2003.[36] Its southerly latitude makes little difference to the average annual temperatures compared to more northerly coastal parts of Scotland. This is due to strong maritime influence from theIrish Sea cooling down summers due to frequent cloudy weather and cool water temperatures. There are plenty of higher areas to Dumfries' west, but even so those seldom allow warm air to stay untouched.
| Climate data for Dumfries 49m asl, 1991–2020, extremes 1951–1980 | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °C (°F) | 14.3 (57.7) | 13.3 (55.9) | 17.8 (64.0) | 19.3 (66.7) | 25.2 (77.4) | 28.3 (82.9) | 32.8 (91.0) | 28.6 (83.5) | 25.6 (78.1) | 22.8 (73.0) | 15.6 (60.1) | 13.9 (57.0) | 32.8 (91.0) |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 7.0 (44.6) | 7.7 (45.9) | 9.6 (49.3) | 12.2 (54.0) | 15.7 (60.3) | 17.9 (64.2) | 19.7 (67.5) | 19.2 (66.6) | 17.1 (62.8) | 13.4 (56.1) | 9.8 (49.6) | 7.3 (45.1) | 13.1 (55.6) |
| Daily mean °C (°F) | 4.4 (39.9) | 4.8 (40.6) | 6.3 (43.3) | 8.4 (47.1) | 11.4 (52.5) | 13.9 (57.0) | 15.7 (60.3) | 15.3 (59.5) | 13.4 (56.1) | 10.0 (50.0) | 6.9 (44.4) | 4.6 (40.3) | 9.6 (49.3) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 1.8 (35.2) | 1.9 (35.4) | 2.9 (37.2) | 4.5 (40.1) | 7.0 (44.6) | 9.8 (49.6) | 11.6 (52.9) | 11.4 (52.5) | 9.6 (49.3) | 6.6 (43.9) | 3.9 (39.0) | 1.8 (35.2) | 6.1 (43.0) |
| Record low °C (°F) | −13.9 (7.0) | −11.1 (12.0) | −12.2 (10.0) | −3.9 (25.0) | −2.2 (28.0) | 0.6 (33.1) | 2.8 (37.0) | 2.2 (36.0) | −1.1 (30.0) | −3.9 (25.0) | −9 (16) | −10.6 (12.9) | −13.9 (7.0) |
| Averageprecipitation mm (inches) | 121.7 (4.79) | 98.5 (3.88) | 86.3 (3.40) | 67.0 (2.64) | 69.2 (2.72) | 79.1 (3.11) | 82.9 (3.26) | 96.9 (3.81) | 90.7 (3.57) | 126.3 (4.97) | 130.3 (5.13) | 132.3 (5.21) | 1,181.2 (46.49) |
| Mean monthlysunshine hours | 47.0 | 72.1 | 102.6 | 149.0 | 185.8 | 147.2 | 151.0 | 146.4 | 115.1 | 90.5 | 59.3 | 43.8 | 1,309.8 |
| Source 1:Met Office[37] | |||||||||||||
| Source 2:ScotClim[38] | |||||||||||||
Scottish communities grantedRoyal Burgh status by the monarch guarded the honour jealously and with vigour. Riding the Marches maintains the tradition of an occasion that was, in its day, of great importance. Dumfries has been a Royal Burgh since 1186, its charter being granted by King William the Lion in a move that ensured the loyalty of its citizens to the Monarch. Although far from the centre of power in Scotland, Dumfries had obvious strategic significance sitting as it does on the edge of Galloway and being the centre of control for the south west of Scotland. With the River Nith on two sides and the Lochar Moss on another, Dumfries was a town with good natural defences. Consequently, it was never completely walled. A careful eye still had to be kept on the clearly defined boundaries of the burgh, a task that had to be taken each year by the Provost, Baillies, Burgesses and others within the town. Neighbouring landowners might try to encroach on the town boundaries, or the Marches as they were known, moving them back 100 yards or so to their own benefit. It had to be made clear to anyone thinking of or trying to encroach that they dare not do so.
In return for the Royal status of the town and the favour of the King, the Provost and his council, along with other worthies of the town had to be diligent in ensuring the boundaries were strictly observed. Although steeped in history, Scotland's burghs remained the foundation of the country's system of local government for centuries. Burgh status conferred on its citizens the right to elect their own town councils, run their own affairs and raise their own local taxes or rates. Dumfries also became the administrative centre for theshire of Dumfries, orDumfriesshire, which was probably created in the twelfth century and certainly existed by 1305.[39] When elected county councils were created in 1890 under theLocal Government (Scotland) Act 1889, the burgh of Dumfries was deemed capable of running its own affairs and so was excluded from the jurisdiction of the county council.[40][41]
The burgh of Dumfries was enlarged in 1929 to take inMaxwelltown on the west bank of the Nith, which had previously been a separate burgh inKirkcudbrightshire.[42][43] Further local government reform in 1930 brought the burgh of Dumfries within the area controlled by Dumfriesshire County Council, but classed as alarge burgh which allowed the town to continue to run many local services itself.[44] The town council was based atMunicipal Buildings in Buccleuch Street, built in 1932 on the site of an earlier council building.[45]
In 1975 local government across Scotland was reformed under theLocal Government (Scotland) Act 1973. The burghs and counties were abolished as administrative areas, replaced with a two-tier system of upper-tier regions and lower-tier districts.[46] Dumfries therefore became part of theNithsdale district in the region ofDumfries and Galloway. Nithsdale District Council took over the Municipal Buildings.[45] Ancient titles associated with Dumfries' history as a royal burgh likeprovost andbailie were discarded or retained only for ceremonial purposes. Robes and chains often found their way into museums as a reminder of the past. Further local government reform in 1996 abolished Nithsdale district, since when Dumfries has been governed by Dumfries and Galloway Council, which has its headquarters in the town atCounty Buildings, which had been built in 1914 as the headquarters of Dumfriesshire County Council.[47]
Dumfries remains a centre of local government for a much bigger area than just the town itself. But its people, the Doonhamers still retain a pride in their town and distinctive identity. This is never more so than during the week-long Guid Nychburris Festival and its highlight the Riding of the Marches which takes place on the third Saturday in June each year.
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Dumfries is located in thecouncil area ofDumfries and Galloway. It is the seat of the local council, whose headquarters are located on the edge of the town centre. Until 1995 Dumfries was also home to the council for the local district ofNithsdale. Dumfries also lends its name to thelieutenancy area of Dumfries, which is similar in boundaries to the formerDumfriesshire county.
On the Dumfries and Galloway Council, Dumfries is covered by four 4-seat wards: Abbey, Lochar, Nith and North West Dumfries. North West Dumfries is the only ward that solely covers areas within the town itself, with the others incorporating outlying areas. In the2017 council election, these wards elected 6Labour, 5Conservative and 4SNP councillors.
Dumfries is split into two UK Parliament constituencies:Dumfries and Galloway which is represented byJohn Cooper andDumfriesshire, Clydesdale and Tweeddale which is represented byDavid Mundell, both of theScottish Conservative Party. For Scottish Parliament elections, Dumfries is in theSouth Scotland electoral region and split between two constituencies. The western wards of Abbey and North West Dumfries are in the constituency ofGalloway and West Dumfries, while the eastern wards of Nith and Lochar are in the constituency ofDumfriesshire. The respective MSPs areFinlay Carson andOliver Mundell, both of theScottish Conservative Party.
In the2014 Scottish independence referendum, Dumfries and Galloway had the country'sthird heaviest 'No' vote at more than 65% of the ballots cast. That was more than 10 points higher than the national average pro-union vote.
Dumfries has a long history as acounty town, and as themarket town of a surrounding rural hinterland. TheNorth British Rubber Company started manufacturing in 1946 at Heathhall on the former site of theArrol-Johnston Motor Company which was said to be the most advanced light engineering factory of its day in Scotland. It becameUniroyal Ltd in the 1960s and was where theHunter Boot and Powergripengine timing belts were manufactured. In 1987 it changed name to the British subsidiary of theGates Rubber Company and later was known as Interfloor from 2002 until the factory closed in 2013.
Dumfries is a relatively prosperous community but the town centre has been exposed to the centrifugal forces that have seen retail, business, educational, residential and other uses gravitate towards the town's urban fringe.[48] This was started in the 1980s with the building of the Dumfries bypass. The immediate effect of this was as intended the diversion of transiting traffic away from the town centre. This brought with it an accompanying reduction in economic input to the town centre. The second effect of this has been more pronounced. Sites close to the bypass have attracted development to utilise the bypass as a high speed urban highway without the bottlenecks of the town centre and without the constraining limited town centre parking.
In a bid to re-stimulate development in Dumfries town centre, both economically and in a social context, several strategies have been proposed by the controlling authorities.[49]
As the largest settlement in Southern Scotland, Dumfries is recognised as a centre for visiting surrounding points of interest.[50] The following are all within easy reach:
Dumfries got its nickname 'Queen of the South' from David Dunbar, a local poet,[54] who in 1857 stood in thegeneral election. In one of his addresses he called Dumfries "Queen of the South" and this became synonymous with the town.[55][56]
The termdoonhamer comes from the way that natives of Dumfries over the years have referred to the area when working away from home. The town is often referred to asdoon hame in theScots language (down home). The term doonhamer followed, to describe those that originate from Dumfries.[55] The Doonhamers is also the nickname ofQueen of the South who represent Dumfries and the surrounding area in the Scottish Football League.[55] The crest of Dumfries contains the words, "A Lore Burne". In the history of Dumfries close to the town was the marsh through which ran the Loreburn whose name became the rallying cry of the town in times of attack – A Lore Burne (meaning 'to the muddy stream').[55][57]
In 2017 Dumfries was ranked the happiest place in Scotland byRightmove.[58]
Located on top of a small hill,Dumfries Museum is centred on the 18th-century windmill which stands above the town. Included are fossil footprints left by prehistoric reptiles, the wildlife of the Solway marshes, tools and weapons of the earliest peoples of the region and stone carvings of Scotland's first Christians. On the top floor of the museum is acamera obscura.[57]
Based in thecontrol tower near Tinwald Downs, the aviation museum has an extensive indoor display of memorabilia, much of which has come via various recovery activities. During the second world war, aerial navigation was taught at Dumfries also atWigtown and nearbyAnnan was a fighter training unit.RAF Dumfries doubled as an important maintenance unit and aircraft storage unit. The museum is run by theDumfries and Galloway Aviation Group and is the only private aviation museum in Scotland.[51] The restored control tower of the former World War IIairfield is now a listed building. The museum is run by volunteers and houses a large and ever expandingaircraft collection, aero engines and a display of artefacts and personal histories relating to aviation, past and present. It is also home to theLoch DoonSpitfire. Bothcivil aviation andmilitary aviation are represented.[17]
The Ewart Library is aCarnegie library, and was opened in 1904. Carnegie donated £10,000 toward the building of the library, and suggested that it was named after William Ewart, former MP for the area, and who was key in the introduction of acts of Parliament in both England and Scotland related to the creation of public libraries.[59]
The most significant of the parks in Dumfries are all within walking distance of the town centre:-
TheTheatre Royal, Dumfries was built in 1792 and is the oldest working theatre in Scotland.[61][62]
The theatre is owned by the Guild of Players who bought it in 1959, thereby saving it from demolition, and is run on a voluntary basis by the members of the Guild of Players. It is funded entirely by Guild membership subscriptions, and by box office receipts. It does not currently receive any grant aid towards running costs. In recent years the theatre has been re-roofed and the outside refurbished. It is the venue for the Guild of Players' own productions and for performances from visiting companies. These include: Scottish Opera, TAG, the Borderline and7:84. The Robert Burns Centre is an art house cinema in Dumfries.[63] The Odeon Cinema, which showed more mainstream movies, closed its doors in mid-2018 due to the local council refusing to allow Odeon to relocate, forcing them to close.
Dumfries was formerly home to one of the 11BBC studios in Scotland.Greatest Hits Radio Dumfries & Galloway, part ofBauer Media Group, broadcasts from Dumfries, and is also the main radio station for the area. Community radio stationAlive 107.3 broadcasts on 107.3FM in Dumfries and online.[citation needed] In 2018, Dumfries got a new radio station,Dumfries Community Radio. Also known as DCR Online, it is not a traditional FM radio station, but an online radio station.
The two local newspapers that specifically cover Dumfries and the surrounding are:-
TheLoreburn Hall (sometimes known colloquially as The Drill Hall)[66] has hosted concerts by performers such asBlack Sabbath,[67]Big Country,[68]The Proclaimers andScottish Opera.[66] The hall has hosted sporting events such aswrestling.[69] The new DG One sport, fitness and entertainment centre became the principal indoor event venue in Dumfries in 2007,[70] but in October 2014, it closed due to major defects being discovered in the building. However, the refurbished building reopened to the public in the summer of 2019.[71] The Theatre Royal has also reopened following renovation work.
There are many buildings in Dumfries made from sandstone of the local Locharbriggs quarry. The quarry is situated off the A701 on the north of Dumfries at Locharbriggs close to the nearby aggregates quarry. This dimension stone quarry is a large quarry. Quarry working at Locharbriggs dates from the 18th century, and the quarry has been worked continuously since 1890.[72]
There are good reserves of stone that can be extracted at several locations. On average the stone is available at depths of 1m on bed although some larger blocks are obtainable. The average length of a block is 1.5m but 2.6m blocks can be obtained. Locharbriggs is from theNew Red Sandstone of the Permian age. It is a medium-grained stone ranging in colour from dull red to pink. It is the sandstone used in theQueen Alexandra Bridge inSunderland, theManchester Central Convention Complex and the base of theStatue of Liberty.[72]
With a collection of over 400 Scottish paintings, Gracefield Arts Centre hosts a changing programme of exhibitions featuring regional, national and international artists and craft-makers.[73] Dumfries Art Trail brings together artists, makers, galleries and craft shops with venues accessible all year round.[74]
There are a number of festivals which take place throughout the year, mostly based on traditional values. Guid Nychburris (Middle Scots, meaning Good Neighbours) is the main festival of the year, a ceremony which is largely based on the theme of a positive community spirit. The ceremony on Guid Nychburris Day, follows a route and sequence of events laid down in the mists of time. Formal proceedings start at 7.30 am with the gathering of up to 250 horses waiting for the courier to arrive and announce that the Pursuivant is on his way, and at 8.00 am leave the Midsteeple and ride out to meet the Pursuivant. They then proceed to Ride the Marches and Stob and Nog (mark the boundary with posts and flags) before returning to the Midsteeple at 12.15 pm to meet the Provost and then the Charter is proclaimed to the towns people of Dumfries. This is then followed by the crowning of the Queen of the South.[75]
Since 2013, Dumfries has seen the annualNithraid, a small boat race up the Nith from Carsethorn, celebrating the town's historical relationship with the river. The region is also home to a number of thriving music festivals such as the Eden Festival (at St Ann's near Moffat), Youthbeatz (Scotland's largest free youth music festival), the Moniaive Folk Festival, Thornhill Music Festival,Big Burns Supper Festival and previously Electric Fields at Drumlanrig Castle.
Queen of the South represent Dumfries and the surrounding area in the third level of the country'sprofessional football system, theScottish League One.Palmerston Park onTerregles Street is the home ground of the team. This is on the Maxwelltown side of the River Nith. They reached the2008 Scottish Cup Final, losing 3–2 toRangers.[55] Dumfries City VFC are a virtual football club from the town.Dumfries Saints Rugby Club is one of Scotland's oldest rugby clubs having been admitted to theScottish Rugby Union in 1876–77 as "Dumfries Rangers".[76]
Dumfries is also home to a number of golf courses:
Of those listed, only the Dumfries and Galloway Golf Club is on the Maxwelltown side of the River Nith. This course is also bisected into 2 halves of 9 holes each by the town's Castle Douglas Road. The club house and holes 1 to 7 and 17 and 18 are on the side nearest toSummerhill, Dumfries. Holes 8 to 16 are on the side nearest to Janefield.
The opening stage of the2011 Tour of Britain started inPeebles and finished 105.8 miles (170.3 km) later in Dumfries. The stage was won by sprint specialist and reigning Tour de France green jersey champion,Mark Cavendish, with his teammate lead out man,Mark Renshaw finishing second. Cavendish had been scheduled to be racing in the2011 Vuelta a España. However Cavendish was one a number of riders to withdraw having suffered in the searing Spanish heat. This allowed Cavendish to be a late addition to the Tour of Britain line up in his preparation for what was to be a successful bid two weeks later in the2011 UCI Road World Championships – Men's road race. Cavendish in a smiling post race TV interview in Dumfries described the wet and windy race conditions through the Southern Scottish stage as 'horrible'.[77] DG One complex includes a national event-sized competitionswimming pool. The David Keswick Athletic Centre is the principal facility in Dumfries for athletics.[78] Dumfries is home toNithsdale Amateur Rowing Club.[79][80] The rowers share their clubhouse with Dumfries Sub-Aqua Club.[81]
The town is also home toSolway Sharksice hockey team. The team are current Northern Premier League winners. The team's home rink is Dumfries Ice Bowl. Dumfries Ice bowl is also recognised as Scotland's only centre of ice hockey excellence, and trials for the Scottish Jr national team are carried out at this venu. Dumfries Ice Bowl is also home to twosynchronised skating teams, Solway Stars and Solway Eclipse. In addition, Dumfries Ice Bowl is also home to several curling teams, competitions and leagues. Junior curling teams from Dumfries, consisting of curlers under the age of 21, regularly compete in the Dutch Junior Open based in Zoetermeer, the Netherlands. In 2007, 2008 and 2009 a Dumfries-based team have been the winners of the competition's Hogline Trophy.
Dumfries hosts three outdoorbowls clubs:[82]
Dumfries hosts cycling organisations and cycling holidays.[83][84][85]
In 1953 theKing's Own Scottish Borderers were granted the freedom of Dumfries.[86]
Dumfries is linked to the NorthboundA74(M) motorway atBeattock via theA701 road. TheA75 road eastbound links Dumfries to the southbound A74(M), leading to theM6 motorway andCarlisle. The A75 road west links Dumfries with the ferry port ofStranraer. TheA76 road connects toKilmarnock inAyrshire.
Dumfries railway station lies on theGlasgow South Western Line. It was awarded Best Station Awards byBritish Rail in 1986 and 1987. The train service is now operated byScotRail which provides services toGlasgow Central and Carlisle, and less frequent services direct toNewcastle. The nearest station to Dumfries on theWest Coast Main Line is 14 miles (23 km) east along theA709 road atLockerbie, and the nearest West Coast Main Line station linking directly to Dumfries by rail isCarlisle.
Maxwelltown station in the Summerhill district of the town was closed along with the direct line toStranraer via Castle Douglas as part of theBeeching cuts in 1965. Part of the disused railway track in Dumfries was later converted to a cycle path.
A number of well-known people were educated atDumfries Academy, among themHenry Duncan, founder of the world's first commercial savings bank,Sir James Anderson, who captained theSS Great Eastern on thetransatlantic telegraph cable laying voyages in 1865 and 1866,[87] A renowned Rector of Dumfries Academy, mathematician and friend of Robert Burns wasThomas White.J M Barrie, author ofPeter Pan, musicianJohn Law Hume of the Titanic orchestra,Jane Haining, international diplomatAlexander Knox Helm,John Laurie, actor (Private Fraser inDad's Army), artistChristian Jane Fergusson, artist SirRobin Philipson, singerJohn Hanson,Alex Graham, cartoonist best known for theFred Basset series andJock Wishart, who in 1998 set a new world record for circumnavigating the globe in a powered vessel.[88][89]Roger White,CEO of soft drinks groupA.G. Barr is a local lad who went to Dumfries Academy. FollowingWilliam A. F. Browne's 1838 appointment as Superintendent of the Crichton hospital, his son,James Crichton-Browne, was educated at the academy.
William Charles Wells, predecessor toCharles Darwin on the theory ofnatural selection was another schooled in Dumfries.GeologistRobert Harkness was schooled in Dumfries and subsequently resided in the town.Sir Frank Williams of F1 motor racing fame was educated atSt Joseph's College, Dumfries as wasCharles Forte, Baron Forte. St Joseph's was founded byBrother Walfrid, the founder ofCeltic F.C.
International chart-topping record producerCalvin Harris is from Dumfries. Dumfries was the hometown ofCalvin Harris until he left in 2008.Ray Wilson, lead singer ofStiltskin and laterGenesis was born in Dumfries as were fellow musiciansGeoffrey Kelly andIan Carr andEmma's Imagination singerEmma Gillespie is from Dumfries.Opera singerNicky Spence was born in Dumfries as wasBritain's Got Talent singerAndrew Johnston.Nigel Sinclair is aHollywood film producer.Michael Carter's acting career has seen him appear in a variety or productions ranging fromReturn of the Jedi toRebus.
Dumfries has produced a steady stream of professionalfootballers and managers. The best known footballers of their eras to come from Dumfries are probablyDave Halliday,[90]Ian Dickson,[90]Bobby Ancell,Billy Houliston,[90]Jimmy McIntosh,[91]Willie McNaught andTed McMinn.[90] Halliday, Dickson, Houliston and McMinn played for home town club,Queen of the South during their careers.Dominic Matteo[92][93] was born in Dumfries but moved to England while still a young boy.Barry Nicholson lost 4–3 to Queens playing forAberdeen in the 2008Scottish Cup semi-finals despite scoring[55] against the team he supported as a boy.[93] Ancell, Houliston, McNaught and Nicholson have represented Scotland and were joined in having done so in season 2010/11 byCammy Bell andGrant Hanley. Matteo gained 6 full caps for Scotland[93] after having represented England at under-21 level. Halliday was overlooked by Scotland in favour ofHughie Gallacher.[90] Gallacher played for The Queen's but was not from Dumfries. It was as a manager rather than a player thatThomas Mitchell made his name as a multipleFA Cup winner atBlackburn Rovers[94] before joining Woolwich Arsenal asArsenal F.C. were then named.
Dumfries is also the hometown of three-times24 Hours of Le Mans winner,Allan McNish,[95] as it was to fellow racing driverDavid Leslie.[95] Scotlandrugby union internationalistsDuncan Hodge,Nick De Luca,Craig Hamilton andAlex Dunbar were born in Dumfries as were professional golfersAndrew Coltart[96] andRobert Dinwiddie.Curling world championsDavid Murdoch,Euan Byers andCraig Wilson were all born in Dumfries. Formerdarts championRab Smith is anotherDoonhamer.
BBC BroadcasterKirsty Wark was born in the town as was fellow broadcasterStephen Jardine.[97]Neil Oliver (archaeologist, historian, author and broadcaster), grew up in Ayr and Dumfries. Author and earth scientistDougal Dixon is from Dumfries.Hunter Davies (author, journalist and broadcaster) lived in Dumfries for four years as a boy.[98]James Hannay as well as being a novelist and journalist spent the last five years of his life as the Britishconsul inBarcelona.John Mayne was born in Dumfries in 1759 and contributed in the field of poetry. World War I poetWilliam Hamilton was another born in Dumfries.Archibald Gracie, shipping magnate and business tycoon in USA, was from Dumfries. Banking executiveJohn McFarlane originates from the town. The architectGeorge Corson who worked mainly inLeeds, England, was born in Dumfries and articled toWalter Newall in the town.
PoliticianDavid Mundell was born in Dumfries as wereWilliam Dickson,William Pattison Telford Sr. andAmbrose Blacklock all of whom made their mark politically in Canada. Malcolm H. Wright was also born in Dumfries, father ofSophie B. Wright – New Orleans' educator and pioneer for women and children's rights. Suffragette and feminist campaignerDora Marsden spent the last 25 years of her life being cared for in Dumfries after her psychological breakdown.Dr Ian Gibson is another to leave his mark on politics.James Edward Tait was a Dumfries-born recipient of theVictoria Cross.William Robertson andEdward Spence are other Victoria Cross recipients.Robert Jenkinson, 2nd Earl of Liverpool, UK Prime Minister from 1812 to 1827, was quartered in Dumfries in 1796 during his military service.
David Haggart (1801–1821), was a Scottish thief and rogue who in 1820 in his escape from Dumfries Gaol, (site now occupied by Thomson's the Jewellers ), killed theturnkey. He was hanged in Edinburgh in 1821. His dictated memoir published as achapbook[99] became the subject of the 1969John Huston film "SinfulDavey" starringJohn Hurt.
A plaque on the wall on the site of the King's Arms Hotel, now Boots the Chemist's, records the presence there in 1829 of William Hare ofBurke and Hare notoriety. He was travelling to Ireland after the trial; his visit caused a near riot.[100]John Richardson, naturalist, explorer and naval surgeon was born in Dumfries as wasJohn Craig, mathematician, andpolymathJames Crichton.Benjamin Bell after being born in Dumfries went on to become considered the first Scottish scientific surgeon. His great-grandson wasJoseph Bell whoArthur Conan Doyle has creditedSherlock Holmes as being loosely based on from Bell's observant manner. Doyle's father, artistCharles Altamont Doyle, died inThe Crichton Royal Institution and is buried in the High Cemetery in Dumfries.[101]
Thomas Peter Anderson Stuart left Dumfries to go on and found theUniversity of Sydney Medical School.John Allan Broun's contribution to science were his discoveries aroundmagnetism andmeteorology.James Braid, surgeon and pioneer ofhypnotism andhypnotherapy, practised in Dumfries from 1825 to 1828 in partnership with William Maxwell.Ian Callum is eminent in the world of motor engineer. AChurch of Scotland minister the Rev. John Ewart of Troqueer in Kirkcudbrightshire produced eleven children of whom some have made a notable mark.Peter Ewart was an engineer who was influential in developing the technologies ofturbines and theories ofthermodynamics. His brotherJoseph Ewart became Britishambassador toPrussia. John, a doctor, became Chief Inspector ofEast India Company hospitals in India. William, father ofWilliam Ewart, was business partner of Sir John Gladstones (sic), father of four times Prime MinisterWilliam Ewart Gladstone. Gladstone junior was named after Ewart, his godfather.James Julius Wood was an early minister at St George's and aFree Church Moderator.
Dumfries istwinned with:
This article incorporates text from this source, which is in thepublic domain. This article incorporates text from this source, which is in thepublic domain.
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