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Donkey jacket

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Type of workwear jacket

A donkey jacket with PVC panels
Sack coat: the precursor to the donkey jacket worn from the mid Victorian era onwards by workers and soldiers. These did not have the leather shoulder patches of the modern work jacket. (Caption refers toBoston Corbett andJohn Wilkes Booth.)

Adonkey jacket is a medium-lengthworkwearjacket, typically made of unlined black or dark blue thickMeltonwoollen fabric, with the shoulders back and front reinforced and protected from rain withleather orPVC panels.

Originating in the United Kingdom, the garment is untailored at the waist such that it hangs down straight from the shoulders. The front vertical edges fall straight and are squared-off at the bottom edge which is also straight horizontally with no vent at the back. In length it reaches 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) below the crotch area. It has nolapels and is closed by four to five buttons at the front that fasten tightly up to the neck with a broad and stiff turn-up collar, allowing the wearer to protect the neck from wind, cold and wet weather. It is thus well suited to outdoors work in demanding conditions.

Origins

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See also:Lounge jacket

In 1888 George Key opened up his own shop above his father John Key's first-floor draper shop on Lower Brook Street inRugeley, Staffordshire, England. That same year, Key designed a new type of coat made of a hard-wearing material developed for those who were working on the construction of theManchester Ship Canal. Some of thenavvies worked ondonkey engines (a steam-powered winch or logging engine), providing the inspiration for the name of George Key's new coat: the donkey jacket.[1]

Design

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The donkey jacket is derived from the woolsack coat worn by workers in the 19th century, and theOxford English Dictionary references the term as first used in 1929: "one with leather shoulders and back".[2] The jacket usually has two capacious side pockets, and sometimes an inside "poacher's pocket".

Later versions replaced the leather with a PVC panel covering the shoulder-blade areas. This could befluorescent orange or yellow and is sometimes branded with the name of the company which supplied the jacket, or the name of the company for which the wearer worked.

Social significance

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The donkey jacket is regarded as typical of the British manual labourer and trade unionist as well as members of the political left. It is also favoured by traditionalistTeddy boys, Rockabillys andskinheads.[3][4] Former BritishLabour Party leaderMichael Foot was criticised for wearing what was described incorrectly[5] as a "donkey jacket" at aRemembrance Day wreath-laying ceremony[6] and he was shown wearing one on several covers of the satirical magazinePrivate Eye. Foot's office insisted it was actually a "very expensive short overcoat" chosen by his wife, fromHarrods.[7]

References

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  1. ^"Cannock Chase Heritage Trail". Archived fromthe original on 15 August 2012. Retrieved19 September 2015.
  2. ^"donkey". The Oxford English Dictionary. Second Edition, 1989. OED Online. Oxford University Press. Retrieved 9 November 2009.
  3. ^TradSkin.Org, (1999),alt.skinheads FAQ, . Retrieved 28 June 2007.
  4. ^Marshall, George (1991). Spirit of '69 - A Skinhead Bible. Dunoon, Scotland: S.T. Publishing.ISBN 1-898927-10-3
  5. ^Pallis, Sam (3 March 2010)."Michael Foot: RIP". Newstatesman.com. Retrieved5 September 2016.
  6. ^"The Michael Foot story".BBC News. 3 March 2010. Retrieved27 October 2020.
  7. ^"Collection highlights: Michael Foot's donkey jacket".People's History Museum. Archived fromthe original on 20 January 2015. Retrieved5 August 2015.
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