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Dhoti

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(Redirected fromDhotis)
Ethnic wrap garment worn by men in the Indian subcontinent
For the far western area of theNepalese region, seeDoti.

ADogra dancer wears a dhoti, at atheatre inJammu.

Thedhoti is anankle-length breechcloth,[1] wrapped around the waist and the legs, in resemblance to the shape oftrousers.[2][3][4] The dhoti is agarment ofethnic wear for men in theIndian subcontinent.[5][6] Thedhoti is fashioned out of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, of usually around 4 yards (3.7 m) in length.[7][8]

Anillustration of dhoti-cladsepoys (soldiers), recruited into theBritish Indian military.

Thedhoti is considered to be the male counterpart of thesari, worn by females toreligious &secular ceremonies (functions).[9][10][11] Apitambar is a yellow silk dhoti worn on auspicious occasions.[12][13] Dhotis must not be confused with "readymade panchakachams"[14] or "dhoti pants", which are a newready to wear trend, popular among women and typical of children.[15][16][17] Although the termsmundu orveshti are used interchangeably with "dhoti",[18] they are different from thedhoti, which is "looped" or wrapped around the legs, in the form of trousers or pants.[19] The dhoti is better known aspanchakacham inSouth India, which may even be worn while doing dances such asmoonwalks.[20] While the sari is still draped by many women asdaily wear, only a few men know how to wrap the dhoti & use it every day.[21] The dhoti has been displaced by the "English clothes" of theBritish, in urban areas likeBombay (Mumbai).[22] Men in dhotis are looked down upon, because they are perceived aspoor, at some places such asshopping malls.[23] Also, with the addition ofkurta-pyjama sets fromCentral Asia during theMoghal empire,[24]pyjamas are worn instead of dhotis as ethnic menswear.[25]

Etymology and history

[edit]
Khasi folk dancers wearing "Jaiñboh" dhotis and other ethnic garb

The unstitched dhoti is also referred to as "dhautra" (IPA: /dʱɑwtɽɐ/) in Sanskrit, which means rope or cord. It evolved from the ancientantriya, which was passed in between the legs, tucked at the back and covered the legs loosely, then flowed into long pleats at front of the legs, the same way it is worn today as formal dhoti.[26]: 130  While a casual and short dhoti wraps around both legs firmly, in this style the back side of the dhoti is pulled to the front and tucked at the waist, before tucking the two loose ends at back, creating firmly fitted trouser-like dhoti that wraps around both legs. This style is more commonly worn by farmers and martial artists.[27][28] Stitched garments became popular inthe Indian subcontinent, with the coming ofPersians,Greeks & "barbarians"; nonetheless the dhoti prevailed insakaccha as well asvikaccha forms.[29] In theSunga period, there were two broad modes of wearing the dhoti, thesakaccha & thevikaccha.[30] In thesakaccha way, the cloth passed between the legs & was tucked at the back;vikaccha meant wearing the dhoti in the form of alungi.[31] In the past, there were variations in the styles of wrapping the dhotibased on castes, as in the case of Bombay'sSonars & thePeshwa Brahmins; for this reason English attire has been described as "caste neutral".[32][33]

M K Gandhi in 1935

During British rule incolonial India, the dhoti remained anational symbol of resistance and cultural identity, when worn without a shirt.[34][35][36] At the height of theIndian Independence Movement, weavingkhadi was a symbol of theswadeshi movement.[37] In 1921, the famed M K Gandhi himself championed only thedhoti often topless (without a kurta or shirt), to promote and identify with thehandicrafts produced by the rural & the poor of hishomeland.[38][39]

Names and styles

[edit]
Relief depicting men in anatariya anduttariya, 1st century CE
AManipuri dancer dressed asKrishna in yellow dhoti

The garment is known by various names based on language, such as:

Native scriptTransliterationLanguage or region
চুৰিয়া, ধুতিSuriya,DhutiAssamese
ধুতিDhutiBengali
ધૉતિયુDhotiyuGujarati
धोतीDhotīHindi,Maithili,Nepali andPali
मर्दानीMardānīHindi
ಧೋತ್ರ
ಕಚ್ಚೆ ಪಂಚೆ
Dhotra
Kachche Panche
Kannada
धोंतर,
आंगोस्तर,
आड नेसचे,
पुडवे
Dhontara,
Āṅgostara,
Āḍa nesace
Puḍave
Konkani
മുണ്ട്Muṇṭ‌Malayalam
धोतरDhotara aMarathi
ଧୋତିDhotīOdia
ਚਾਦਰਾChaadraPunjabi
வேட்டிVaettiTamil
పంచె, ధోవతిPañceTelugu
دھوتیDhotiUrdu
a In Marathi, adhotar is not the same as apancha (pluralpanche).
While the former is worn around the waist, the latter is normally atowel used afterbathing (comparebelow).

Custom and usage

[edit]
A Chakravati wears apancha in an ancient style. First century BCE/CE.Amaravathi village, Guntur district (Musee Guimet).
TheDidarganj Yakshi depicting thedhoti wrap

Thepancha is worn by many conservativeJain men when they visitderasars orbasadis forpuja; unstitched clothing is believed by some Jains to be "less permeable to pollution" and therefore more appropriate for religious rituals than other garments.[40] They also wear a loose and unstitched cloth, shorter than thepancha on top.

ABenaresi man in dhoti with a Central Asiankurta, inUttar Pradesh.

International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), known for its distinctive dress code, prompts Western adherents to wearpancha, usually ofsaffron or white cloth folded in ethnicBengali style.Maharishi Mahesh Yogi was known for wearing a white silk dhoti.[41] Traditionally, men wear the dhotitopless (without upper garments), while entering certainmandirs (Hindu temples) inSouth India, because stitched garments supposedly counter theenergy of the idol.[42][43][44][45] The dhoti is often worn with ashirt in other places.[46]

Thedhoti has been ethnically worn byfarmers,pehlwano (wrestlers) &shepherds (grazers) ofSikhs in thePunjab region; it was discouraged during thePunjab Subah Movement, owing it to the inter-communal tensions prevalent at the time.[47][48] Thedhoti was also worn bySouth Canarese Christian men to theirpre-nuptial ceremonies,church weddings &receptions until the 1960s when they fell out of favour; since thengrooms have been styling the blacksuit and tie instead.[49]

A man in dhoti paired with ashort kurta inRajasthan

There's a distinction between thelungi, a similar garment often worn by people at their homes,lungi is more casual and comfortable, the dhoti however is considered formal, it is sometimes worn by politicians.[50]

Gallery

[edit]
Mundu (dhoti) wearing spectators oftheyyam.
Kalaripayattu martial artists wearing thekalari dhoti.
A white mundu worn with a black shirt.
A veshti worn with shirt.

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related toDhoti.
  1. ^Singh, Amar; Rudolph, Lloyd I.; Kanota, Mohan Singh (2001).Reversing the Gaze: Amar Singh's Diary, a Colonial Subject's Narrative of Imperial India. Oxford University Press.ISBN 978-0-19-565869-9.
  2. ^Company, Fideler (1960).Life in Other Lands. Fideler. p. 78. Retrieved3 January 2021.It is arranged to look like a pair of baggy trousers. This garment is called a dhoti and is usually made of cotton.{{cite book}}:|last= has generic name (help)
  3. ^Bhandari, Vandana (2005).Costume, Textiles and Jewellery [i.e. Jewelry] of India: Traditions in Rajasthan. Mercury Books. p. 105.ISBN 9781904668893. Retrieved3 January 2021.One of the reasons for the dhoti's enduring popularity is its loose trouser - like form, which is convenient and extremely well - suited to the tropical Indian climate .
  4. ^K Parker, Lewis (1994).India. Rourke Book Company. p. 14.ISBN 9781559160056. Retrieved3 January 2021.Boys and men often wear adhoti. This is a piece of white cloth wound around the waist.Dhotis look like comfortable, baggy pants.
  5. ^"Indian Dhoti".Indian Mirror.Archived from the original on 29 July 2020. Retrieved3 January 2021.
  6. ^NAYAR, K P (2 May 1999)."NEPAL WAKES UP TO DHOTI POWER".The Telegraph (India). Retrieved16 August 2024.
  7. ^"Why a sari is both hot, and cool".The Times of India. 15 March 2015.
  8. ^Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (17 March 2015).World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. Routledge.ISBN 978-1-317-45166-2.
  9. ^Phd, Alloy S. Ihuah (2 August 2012).Philosophy, Religion and Politics: Essays in Honour of Very Rev. Fr. Moses Orshio Adasu. Lulu.com.ISBN 978-1-300-01966-4.
  10. ^"City women get talking about dresscode in temples".The Times of India. 3 December 2016. Archived fromthe original on 14 January 2025.
  11. ^Avasthi, Vivek (14 January 2020)."Sarees for women, dhoti for men: Officer's dress code for Kashi temple irks minister".The Federal.Archived from the original on 5 August 2020. Retrieved3 January 2021.
  12. ^Henry, Baden Powell (1872).Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab (etc.): Forming ... to the hand-book of the economic products of the Punjab. Engineering College Press. pp. 65, 67.
  13. ^Birdwood, George Christopher Molesworth (1884).The Industrial Arts of India. Chapman and Hall. p. 363.
  14. ^"Madisars made to fit just right". 16 May 2012. Archived fromthe original on 25 August 2024.
  15. ^"Doting Upon the Return of Dhoti Pants". 12 November 2018. Archived fromthe original on 7 July 2022.
  16. ^"Latest Fashion, Trends and Style for Dhoti Kurta for Girls – FayonKids". 16 May 2022. Archived fromthe original on 6 June 2022.
  17. ^"What are dhoti pants". Archived fromthe original on 4 November 2010.
  18. ^"What is Veshti".Rhythm Dhotis. 2020.
  19. ^Dasgupta, Reshmi R. (15 May 2011)."Cocktail Conversations: Veshti Vs Dhoti".The Economic Times. Archived fromthe original on 12 November 2021.
  20. ^"Dhoti dynamics".The Hindu. 25 June 2015. Archived fromthe original on 10 October 2024.
  21. ^"Why is Sabyasachi shaming women who can't drape sarees but not men who can't tie dhotis?".ThePrint. 13 February 2018. Archived fromthe original on 10 August 2022.
  22. ^"I'm a 24-year-old Gandhian and I'm not ashamed to wear a dhoti everyday". 4 January 2016. Archived fromthe original on 28 August 2024.
  23. ^"Indians look down on men in dhotis. It's a by-product of colonialism and disdain for the poor".ThePrint. 18 July 2024. Archived fromthe original on 18 July 2024.
  24. ^"Tracing the Origins of the Indian Kurta". 30 January 2023. Archived fromthe original on 31 January 2023.
  25. ^"Dynamics Evolution of Men's Ethnic Wear in Style & Comfort - KALKI Fashion Blog". 27 August 2023. Archived fromthe original on 2 March 2025.
  26. ^Govind Sadashiv Ghurye (1951)Indian Costume
  27. ^Indian Costume byGovind Sadashiv Ghurye 1966
  28. ^Ancient Indian Costume By Roshen Alkazi 1996
  29. ^Walker, Benjamin (9 April 2019).Hindu World: An Encyclopedic Survey of Hinduism. In Two Volumes. Volume I A-L. Routledge.ISBN 978-0-429-62465-0.
  30. ^Ayyar, Sulochana (1987).Costumes and Ornaments as Depicted in the Sculptures of Gwalior Museum. Mittal Publications.ISBN 978-81-7099-002-4.
  31. ^"Stylistic Changes in the Costumes and Jewellery in Indian Art".
  32. ^George, Rosemary Marangoly (21 November 2013).Indian English and the Fiction of National Literature. Cambridge University Press.ISBN 978-1-107-04000-7.
  33. ^Ambedkar, Bhimrao (20 November 2024).Destruction of Caste. Diamond Pocket Books Pvt.ISBN 978-93-6318-452-7.
  34. ^"Opinion | HALF-NAKED FAKIR MEETS OVERDRESSED KING".The New York Times. 19 October 1986. Archived fromthe original on 24 May 2015.
  35. ^"Gandhi Jayanti: When Mahatma Gandhi turned 'half-naked fakir' in Tamil Nadu | art and culture | Hindustan Times".Hindustan Times. 2 October 2019. Archived fromthe original on 3 October 2019.
  36. ^"Half Naked Fakir | About Gandhi | Articles on and by Gandhi". Archived fromthe original on 10 August 2024.
  37. ^Sankaralingam, Sathrukkan (2 September 2020)."Gandhi - Weaving a nation together".Minister White Blog. Archived fromthe original on 11 October 2020. Retrieved2 September 2020.
  38. ^"What made Gandhiji wear only Loincloth or Dhoti".pib.gov.in. Retrieved7 October 2021.
  39. ^"Importance of Veshties in Tamil Culture".Ramraj Cotton. Retrieved13 July 2022.
  40. ^Cort, John E (2001).Jains in the World: Religious Values and Ideology in India. Oxford University Press. p. 221.doi:10.1093/0195132343.001.0001.ISBN 9780195132342.
  41. ^Koppel, Lily (6 February 2008)."Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, a Guide On the Beatles' Spiritual Path, Dies".New York Times. p. C.10.
  42. ^"City women get talking about dresscode in temples".The Times of India. Archived fromthe original on 22 January 2025.
  43. ^"Karnataka: Rigid dress code put in place at Mahabaleshwar temple".The Times of India. Archived fromthe original on 22 January 2025.
  44. ^"Sartorial quirkiness".
  45. ^"Who says god likes topless men but not jeans?".The Times of India. 10 January 2016. Archived fromthe original on 1 March 2021.
  46. ^"Census of India, 1961". 1962.
  47. ^Brard, Gurnam Singh Sidhu (2007).East of Indus: My Memories of Old Punjab. Hemkunt Press.ISBN 9788170103608.
  48. ^Lamba, Krishan Gopal (1999).Dynamics of Punjabi Suba Movement. Deep & Deep Publications.ISBN 9788176291293.
  49. ^Silva, Severine; Fuchs, Stephen (1965)."The Marriage Customs of the Christians in South Canara, India".Asian Folklore Studies.24 (2):1–52.doi:10.2307/1177555.JSTOR 1177555.
  50. ^McLain, Sean (23 July 2014)."No Dhotis Please, We're Indian".Wall Street Journal. Retrieved3 November 2017.
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