Collegiate Gothic architecture is a popular theme within the aesthetic.
The fashion of the1930s and1940s features prominently in the dark academia aesthetic, particularly clothing associated with attendance atOxbridge,Ivy League schools, and prep schools of the period. A number of the articles of clothing most associated with the aesthetic are cardigans, blazers, dress shirts, plaid skirts,Oxford shoes, and clothing made ofhoundstooth andtweed, its colour palette consisting mainly of black, white, beige, browns, dark green, and occasionally navy blue.[3][6]
The subculture draws on idealised aesthetics ofhigher education and academia, often with books and libraries featuring prominently. Activities such ascalligraphy, museum visits, libraries, coffee shops, and all-night studying sessions are common among proponents.[4]
The subculture has similarities withGoth subculture, tending to romanticize the finding of beauty and poetry in dark themes.[11] Tim Brinkhof ofBig Think has stated that "moody architecture and philosophical pessimism" are key aspects of the aesthetic.[12] Hannah Southwick ofUSA Today has described it as a "melancholic aesthetic," citing a fashion stylist who described it as "boarding school meets goth enthusiast."[13]
The trend emerged on social media siteTumblr in 2015, as an aesthetic that captured the imaginations of a maturing "Harry Potter generation",[14] with variousfandoms using the site to share dark, Gothic revival interior and architectural photos.
Dark academia rose in popularity during theCOVID-19 pandemic. Increased interest in dark academia has been credited to the shutdown of schools.[3]
Book Riot writer Zoe Robertson stated that the subculture draws on "seductive depictions of shadowy extravagance" and reminds her "to see the rot in the foundations of an institution I can't stay away from, and build my own school in defiance."[26] One writer compared it to the contemporarycottagecore lifestyle aesthetic, saying that while cottagecore requires a home in the country and leisure time for crafting, dark academia's "simple act of putting on a blazer and readingDostoevsky is far more doable."[27]
Some commentators have attributed the rise in popularity of the subculture as a reaction to cuts to university funding and the corporatisation of higher education.[28][29][30]Honi Soit writer Ezara Norton stated that it "reveals a deep disillusionment with [education models that devalue knowledge unless it can be used to generate profit], and a longing for a space free to learn unencumbered by aneoliberal agenda."[31] Writing forJacobin, Amelia Horgan argued that the trend was in part a response to the COVID-19 pandemic, which resulted in students leaving campuses to learn in their family homes where many did not have access to adequate study space, providing "a fantasy of the university experience" which they were unable to obtain. However, she also noted that the world presented in the aesthetic was very different from that of the contemporary university, highlighting trends in UK academia as an example of the impacts of neoliberal policies on education, including long hours andcasualisation for teaching staff and students having to work multiple part-time jobs to cover their costs.[32]
In part in reaction to the growth of the subculture, the related "light academia" subculture has experienced a rise in popularity, often featuring lighter and softer imagery and colours and more overt emphasis on optimism.[33][34]
Dark academia has been criticised for various reasons, including the aesthetic's perceivedEurocentrism, lack of diversity, and glamorisation of unhealthy lifestyle choices.[35][36][37][38][39]Critics have argued that theliterary canon from which it draws inspiration is an overwhelmingly white one, with Tim Brinkhof claiming that content creators associated with dark academia "prefer to discuss Oscar Wilde andEmily Dickinson overToni Morrison orJames Baldwin".[40][41][42][12] Sarah Burton, a sociologist fromCity, University of London, noted that the aesthetic lacks representation of various groups including "most women, working class, people of colour, plus-sized, individuals with low economic or cultural capital, disability, caring and domestic activities and labour (especially the enjoyment of these), motherhood, queerness, and the everyday nature of academic life".[43] In response to the aesthetic's lack of diversity, efforts have been made to incorporate literary works from Black authors such asLangston Hughes into dark academia.[44][45]
The sub-culture has also been criticised as elitist and as an "old money aesthetic".[46] Drawing on the threefold typology of educational traditions outlined byRaymond Williams in his bookThe Long Revolution, Amelia Horgan has described dark academia as being rooted in the attitudes of "old humanists committed to preserving and sustaining a traditional and hierarchical culture while preserving the legacy of humanistic study."[32] Amy Crawford of theUniversity of Dundee has stated that the sub-culture "tends to romanticise European upper-class education."[47]Kevin N. Dalby of theUniversity of Texas at Austin has stated that "its association with higher learning and Ivy League schools, in particular, creates elitism that does not enable just anyone to be a part of the group."[48] Conversely, other commentators have noted that fashion items associated with the trend are easily and cheaply sourced from thrift stores.[49]
Others have argued that the aesthetic places too much emphasis on the aesthetic of art and higher education instead of proper study and analysis of these works, leading to misinterpretations of the source material.[50][51] It has also faced criticism for potentially glamourising unhealthy behaviours, such as sleep deprivation, overworking, and substance misuse.[52][53][54][55]
^abBrinkhof, Tim (January 22, 2022)."What is "Dark Academia," and why is it trending on social media in 2022?".Big Think.Archived from the original on June 13, 2022. RetrievedJune 6, 2022.Dark Academia has been accused of being Eurocentric, seeing that the style is built around European universities with predominantly Western curricula. Go on TikTok, and you will find that most Dark Academia content creators prefer to discuss Oscar Wilde and Emily Dickinson over Toni Morrison or James Baldwin, even though the latter two authors were just as insightful as the former. Talking with magazines, more than one social media influencer said they received DMs from others asking if they would fit into the subculture if they weren't white or wealthy.
^Bologna, Caroline (October 14, 2021)."Dark Academia Is Coming For Fall. Move Over, Cottagecore".Huffington Post. RetrievedNovember 7, 2021.The subculture of dark academia has faced criticism for inherently promoting Western colonial education and the supremacy of classical literature.
^Edwards, Caroline (April 24, 2020)."Dark Academia is the witchy literary aesthetic sweeping TikTok".Archived from the original on November 26, 2022. RetrievedNovember 14, 2022.At first glance the aesthetic does seem like one that might attract a community of rich white people, those with old money or interested in high society, but the opposite is true, as 19-year-old TikTok user @etherealacademia points out. "Unlike some other aesthetics, dark academia fashion and decor is really affordable," the college student says, noting its accessibility. They often buy their books, antiques and clothes at thrift stores for cheap prices.
