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Cuisine of Mexico City

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Culinary traditions of Mexico City
Cabeza tacos inMexico City

The cuisine ofMexico City encompasses a variety of cuisines. Restaurants specialize in the regional cuisines of Mexico's 31 states, and the city also has several branches of internationally recognized restaurants.

History

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In 1325, theAztecs settled in the region aroundLake Texcoco in the highlands of Central Mexico. Here they lived off the rich food resources of the lake and developed sophisticated constructions of canals for irrigation, terracing, and 'sunken' gardens calledchinampas to work the productive marsh lands around the lake.[1]

By the late 16th century, sweetened chocolate drinks spiced with nutmeg and cinnamon were very popular in Mexico City. As thecolonial era drew to a close refined multi-court meals had become standard for the Mexico City aristocracy, beginning with a soup likealbondigas, usually followed by a friedSpanish rice garnished with slices of hard boiled egg. The main dishes were numerous and consisted of stewed or roasted meats which could be mutton stew with chili, roast chicken stuffed with onion, or less commonly beef dishes. Meat courses were followed byfrijoles refritos, and for dessertcustard, sweetpastry or fresh fruits.[2]

19th century cookbooks rarely included recipes for corn-based dishes likeatole,tamales,quesadillas orenchiladas, and those that did called themalmuerzos ligeros (light brunches). The concept of anational cuisine was, in Mexico City, divided between the continental European style cuisine associated with Mexican elites and the typical commoner's fare.[3]

Gorditas prepared forDay of the Dead celebrations inCoyoacan

Once considered plebeian fare, by the 19th century, tacos had become a standard of Mexico City's cuisine. Workers moving to Mexico City from the rural countryside brought their culinary traditions with them. As unlicensed vendors began selling corn-based dishes on the street, authorities struggled to tax localtaquerias, imposing licensing requirements and penalties, they recorded some details of the types of foods being served by these establishments. The most frequent reference was fortacos debarbacoa. Also mentioned areenchiladas,tacos de minero andgorditas, along with oyster shops and fried fish stands. There is evidence of some regional specialties being made available for the recent migrants; at least two shops were known to servepozole, a type of stew similar tohominy that is a staple ofGuadalajara,Jalisco.[4]

In the 1940s, the first meal of the day, calleddesayuno, would have been a light meal of a hot drink like coffee or hot chocolate,atole (cornporridge) and sweet bread or pastry, usually eaten around dawn. The second meal,almuerzo, eaten a few hours later was more substantial and includedchilaquiles, eggs or meat. The hearty multi-course mid-day meal (comida) would have included a soup, rice, meat, vegetables and dessert. An early evening meal could include bread and coffee, and on special occasions a more substantial dinner might be served.Mole sauces were prepared for special feastdays.[1]

The commercial food industry expanded duringWorld War II after the construction of thePan-American Highway. Pre-sliced sandwich bread produced by commercial bakeries became a common household item, and beer began to overtakepulque as the most common beverage. Chicken became more widely available in the post-War era and processed meats likehams,sausages, and othercold cuts became available, aided by the arrival of European immigrants experienced in industrialized meat processing. Local butcher shops were stocked withcecina,chicharron andchorizo. Before this expansion of production and distribution, meat production had mostly taken place within the household.[1]

Specialties

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Mexican gelatin desserts at a local shop

Barbacoa de borrego (a slow-cookedlamb dish) is one of the most popular traditional dishes. It is more commonly prepared in the suburban outskirts in the Mexico City environs, such asTexcoco, where there is a centuries-oldbarbacoa tradition. The technique of wrapping the lamb inmaguey cactus leaves and cooking it overnight in an earthen oven is borrowed from traditionalMaya cuisine. Families from Mexico City often travel, usually on Sundays, to eat the dish where it is made. It is common for loyal clientele to patronize the same establishments as their parents or grandparents.[5]

Markets

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There were few roads in and out of Mexico City in the 1940s; the major food markets,La Merced andMercado Jamaica were mostly supplied by canal. There were few restaurants and little local food production aside from a few staple goods like cooking oil, flour and cookies. Most foods were prepared at home using corn, squash, beans, chiles and other locally grown crops available from the markets, usually accompanied by pork or beef.[1]

Mexico City is known for having some of the freshest fish and seafood in Mexico's interior.La Nueva Viga Market is the second largest seafood market in the world after theToyosu Market in Tokyo, Japan.[6]

Restaurants

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Chinese food at a restaurant in Mexico City'sBarrio Chino

Some of the dishes found in Mexico City's restaurants have pre-Conquest roots: lobster in red chile sauce,cactus fruit tortillas andtamales with greens in crab sauce, are based on historic dishes attested to in the 16th-centuryFlorentine Codex.[4]

In the 1850s, fine dining establishments with views ofChapultepec Castle began catering to wealthy clientele. In 1891, at the behest ofIgnacio de la Torre y Mier, Parisian chef Sylvain Daumont opened a restaurant in the city. Some menus have survived offering glimpses of the European-inspired cuisine served at the feasts, which featured no Mexican dishes. At Mexican presidentPorfirio Diaz's birthday celebration the wives of banquet guests watched from the balcony, as only men were seated for the meal.[3]

References

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  1. ^abcdVargas, Luis Alberto. "Diet and Foodways in Mexico City".Ecology of Food and Nutrition.27 (3):235–247.
  2. ^National & Regional Styles of Cookery: Proceedings : Oxford Symposium 1981. Oxford Symposium. p. 270.
  3. ^abPlicher, Jeffrey M. (1996). "Tamales or Timbales: Cuisine and the Formation of Mexican National Identity".The Americas.52 (2):192–216.
  4. ^abPilcher, Jeffrey M.Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food.Oxford University Press.
  5. ^Thome-Ortiz, Humberto (2017). "Heritage cuisine and identity: free time and its relation to the social reproduction of local food".Journal of Heritage Tourism.
  6. ^Daniel Leussink (Sep 4, 2020)."Tokyo's Toyosu fish market, the world's largest, taking outsized hit from pandemic". Reuters. Archived fromthe original on March 31, 2021.
Soups
and stews
Rice and pasta dishes
Bean dishes
Egg dishes
Vegetable
dishes
Meat dishes
Poultry
Pork
Beef
Seafood
Other
protein dishes
Cheese dishes
Antojitos
Corn dough
Wheat dough
Sauces and
condiments
Desserts
and sweets
Salads
Breads
Beverages
Variants
Regional
Fusion and diaspora
Historical
Topics
Coat of arms of Mexico City
Boroughs
Neighborhoods
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