Cavan borders six counties:Leitrim to the west,Fermanagh to the north,Monaghan to the north-east,Meath to the south-east,Longford to the south-west andWestmeath to the south. Cavan shares a 70 km (43 mi) border withCounty Fermanagh inNorthern Ireland. Cavan is the 19th largest of the 32 counties in area and the 25th largest by population.[5]
The county is characterised bydrumlin countryside dotted with many lakes and hills. The north-western area of the county is sparsely populated and mountainous. The Cuilcagh mountain range contain the highest point,Cuilcagh, at 665 metres (2,182 feet).
Cavan is the source of many rivers.Shannon Pot on the slopes of Cuilcagh is the source of theRiver Shannon, the longest river in Ireland at 386 km (240 mi). TheRiver Erne is a major river which rises from Beaghy Lough, two miles (3 km) south ofStradone in Cavan and flows for 120 km (75 mi) toLough Erne. Other rivers in the county include theBlackwater River, which rises near Bailieborough and flows throughLough Ramor, joining theRiver Boyne at Navan;the Dee which springs nearBailieborough; theRiver Annalee which flows fromLough Sillan and joins the Erne; and theCladagh river which rises from Cuilcagh and flows intoFermanagh. TheGlyde and theOwenroe also source in Cavan.
Cavan is known as 'The Lakeland County' and is reputed to contain 365 lakes.[6] At 18.8 km2 (7.3 sq mi),Lough Sheelin is the county's largest lake; it is situated in the south of the county and forms a three way border on its waters between counties Meath, Westmeath and Cavan.[7] A large complex of lakes form in the north and west of Cavan into designated Specially Protected Areas (SPA); an example isLough Oughter. Other important wildlife protected lakes such asLough Gowna andLough Ramor are in the south and east of the county. Cavan has a mainly hilly (drumlin) landscape and contains just under 7,000 hectares (17,000 acres) of forested area, 3.6% of Cavan's total land area. The county contains forests such as Bellamont Forest nearCootehill,Killykeen Forest Park at Lough Oughter (a Coillte state forest concern),Dún na Rí Forest Park and the Burren Forest.
Met Éireann records the climate data for Cavan from their station atBallyhaise. UnderKöppen climate classification, Cavan experiences a maritimetemperateoceanic climate with cold winters, mild humid summers, and a lack of temperature extremes. The average maximum January temperature is 8.2 °C (47 °F), while the average maximum July temperature is 19.8 °C (68 °F). On average, the sunniest months are May and June, while the wettest month is October with 104.4 mm (4 in) of rain, and the driest months are May and June with 67.8 mm (3 in) and 67.9 mm (3 in) respectively. Humidity is high year round and rainfall is evenly distributed throughout the year, with the annual precipitation at Ballyhaise being 1,006 mm (40 in)
On average, snow showers occur between November and March. In the winter of 2010–11, record low temperatures for November, December and January were recorded in Cavan. In late December, the temperature at the station fell to −15.4 °C (4 °F), its lowest ever. On 21 December 2010, a daily maximum of −9.4 °C (15 °F) was recorded at Ballyhaise, the lowest daily maximum ever recorded in Ireland.[9] Summer daytime temperatures range between 15 °C (59 °F) and 22 °C (72 °F), with temperatures rarely going beyond 25 °C (77 °F). The average annual sunshine hours range between 1,300 hours in the north to 1,500 hours in the south.[10]
There are eight historicbaronies in the county. While baronies continue to be officially defined units, they are no longer used for many administrative purposes. Their official status is illustrated by Placenames Orders made since 2003, where official Irish names of baronies are listed under "Administrative units".
From around the thirteenth century the area (Cavan) was part of thepetty kingdom ofEast Bréifne anglicized Breffny O'Reilly after its then ruling Gaelic family. This in turn was the east divisionKingdom of Bréifne. For this reason the county is colloquially known as the Breffni County.[11] A high degree of defense was achieved by using the natural landscape of drumlin hills and loughs. The poorly drained heavy clay soils contributed as an obstacle against invasion.
From the late twelfth century East Breifne were subjected to Norman influence and the remains of several motte and bailie fortifications are still visible, as well as the remains of stronger works such as Castlerahan andClogh Oughter castle. The growing influence of several monastic orders in the new diocese calledTir Briuin Breifne from the mid twelfth century with abbey remains existent in locations such as Drumlane and later Trinity Island.
Historically, theUi BriuinKingdom of Breifne was part of the western province ofConnacht ruled over by the O'Rourke clan until around 1256 when under Norman occupation the kingdom was split in half. West Breifne still ruled by O'Rourkes and East Breifni ruled by O'Reillys. During the sixteenth century in the reign ofQueen Elizabeth I the county of Cavan was formed and transferred toUlster from 1584, following the composition of Breifne. In the south, theLough Sheelin area was part of Leinster until the late 14th century.[citation needed]
UnderJames VI and I, from 1610 thePlantation of Ulster saw the settlement and origins of several new towns within the county that include Bailieborough, Cootehill, Killeshandra and Virginia. Existing towns such as Cavan and Belturbet became over time more important as trading centres. Wars during the mid-seventeenth century aimed at trying to unsettle the Plantation only led to further plantations of English and Scottish settlers into the county, bringing with them better farming methods and the beginnings of a thriving flax and linen industry.
Some areas of Cavan were hard hit by theGreat Famine potato blight between 1845 and 1849. The winter of 1847 is particularly noted for the high levels of deaths nationally caused by diseases such as typhus and cholera. Several instances of eviction also occurred during the nineteenth century, with one such story where the local landlord inMountnugent parish decided to evict over 200 people. The famous ballad "By Lough Sheelin Side" is based on this event witnessed by the localCatholic priest.
Edward Saunderson, founder of theUlster Unionist Council, was born in the county. However, when theIrish Unionist Party met on 9 June 1916, the delegates from Cavan learnt that they would not be included in any "temporary exclusion of Ulster" fromHome Rule; they agreed only with very great reluctance.[12]
Cavan is divided into threelocal electoral areas: Bailieborough-Cootehill, Ballyjamesduff-Virginia and Cavan-Belturbet, which hold 18 county council seats in total. The2019 local elections in Cavan had an average voter turnout of 55.5%, roughly equalling the turnout in 2014 (56.42%). The highest turnout for an electoral area was Bailieborough-Cootehill with 57.1%.
It was formerly divided into therural districts of Bailieborough, Bawnboy, Castlerahan, Cavan, Enniskillen No. 2, and Mullaghoran, and theurban districts of Cavan, Belturbet and Cootehill.[13] The rural districts were abolished in 1925.[14] Belturbet and Cootehill were downgraded totown commissioners in 1950.[15][16] In 2002, the urban district of Cavan and the town commissioners of Belturbet and Cootehill becametown councils.[17] All town councils in Ireland were abolished in 2014.[18][19]
County Cavan is within theDáil constituency ofCavan–Monaghan, which returns five deputies.[20] This constituency was created in 1977, replacing the constituency ofCavan, which had been in existence from 1921. From 2016 to 2020, the area of West Cavan was within the constituency ofSligo–Leitrim.
Two national primary routes pass through the county, TheN3 road and theN16 road. The N3 is the longest route in Cavan, crossing the county for 60 km (37 mi) from the Meath border at Whitegate near Virginia and throughBelturbet intoFermanagh. The N16 begins inSligo and ends atBlacklion in the far northwestern tip of Cavan, it crosses the county for roughly 7 km (4.3 mi).
Three national secondary routes pass through the county. TheN87 road begins in Belturbet and passes throughBallyconnell andSwanlinbar before crossing intoCounty Fermanagh where it becomes the A32. TheN54 route from Monaghan and Clones joins the N3 atButlersbridge. TheN55 linksCavan toAthlone via Ballinagh and Granard.
Bus Éireann provide bus services to villages and towns across the county, including a direct route fromCavan toDublin Airport.
In the mid-1850s theMidland Great Western Railway built a line between the Inny Junction in County Westmeath (along their expanding network which was eventually to reachSligo) and Cavan town. The first railway station to open in Cavan, wasCavan railway station in 1856. Many notable railway stations were built in the 19th century such asKingscourt railway station and theCavan and Leitrim Railway. The railways were an important part of the economic development of Cavan and carried passengers and freight to all overIreland. The railways also helped the popularity ofGAA in Cavan grow, spectators could travel easily between towns.
AfterWorld War II, due to the shortage ofcoal in the country, uneconomic lines were terminated. In 1947 all passenger services were terminated though the transport of freight and livestock continued. TheGreat Northern Railway (G.N.R.) continued to serve theCavan and Leitrim Railway. However, in 1959 all services along the remaining rail lines were terminated and the stations along their routes were closed.
In the historical context and before water levels in lakes were lowered, water transport in the region was once very important through the complex of lakes and waterways that fed into the major river systems such as the Erne, Shannon and Boyne. Today however this is mainly confined to leisure craft on theRiver Erne andShannon-Erne Waterway from Belturbet and Ballyconnell as well as for angling activities. Cavan also has 365 lakes all around, one for everyday of the year.
InGaelic football, the dominant sport in the county,Cavan GAA competes annually in theAll-Ireland Senior Football Championship, which it has won 5 times, between 1933 and 1952. The team is currently in division 2 of theNational Football League. Cavan was the only county in Ireland without a seniorhurling team, the county board having discontinued the team in 2011. The sport was on the decline and the senior team was disbanded to promote Hurling at junior level. Cavan's senior hurling team was reformed in 2017.[22] They compete in division 3B of theNational Hurling League and in theLory Meagher Cup.
The first GAA club founded in Cavan wasBallyconnell in 1885. However the club didn't affiliate to GAA Central Council until March 1886 so that can be taken as the founding of the GAA in Cavan and Ulster.[23] The most successful club in Cavan isCornafean with 20Senior Football Championship titles, their last title was won in 1956.Ramor United are the current senior football champions. No team from Cavan has ever won anational orprovincial title.
As of 2016[update] Cavan had a population of 76,176,[25] a modest increase on the 2011 census. the2016 census reported the county's most numerous non-Irish nationalities as UK, Poland and Lithuania respectively.[25]
The 2016 census reported that of Cavan's 76,173 residents, 82% (62,393 people) identified asRoman Catholic. Other stated religions made up 11% of the population (8,671 people). 5% (3,904 people) stated that they followed no religion. 2% (1,209 people) did not state their religion.
The Cathedral of Saint Patrick and Saint Felim in Cavan town, is the seat of the Bishop of Kilmore and the mother church of theRoman Catholic Diocese of Kilmore.St Fethlimidh's Cathedral, near Cavan town inKilmore, is one of two cathedral churches in the Diocese of Kilmore, Elphin and Ardagh of the Church of Ireland. The Cavan Baptist Church is located in Oldtown and the Islamic Cultural Centre, which is primarily used as amosque, is located in Cavan town. There are two Methodist churches located inBallyconnell and Corlespratten. There are a number of Presbyterian churches throughout the county and a restored 1800s Wesleyan Chapel inBailieborough.
Agriculture is the largest industry in the county, especially dairy milk processing as well as pig and beef farming. Much of Cavan's land consists ofclay soils, which are rich in minerals, but heavy and poorly drained, makingpasture farming the dominant farming system in the county.[27] There is a total farmed area of 144,269 hectares (356,500 acres) in the county, and there are approximately 219,568 cattle in Cavan.Lakeland Dairies Group, which is based in Killeshandra and has manufacturing sites located throughout Cavan, is Ireland's second largest dairy co-operative with an annual revenue of €545 million.[28]
Cavan is one of Ireland's leading counties forpig production, with the county's farms raising a fifth of the national pig herd. Pig farming regulations have put pressure on the industry, which is highly dependent on affordable credit.[29] Traditionally an agricultural economy, Cavan has since expanded in other industries, chiefly quarrying, energy production and manufacturing facilities. As of September 2014[update], Cavan produced 113.14MW of wind energy, on 9 windfarms. The largest wind farm was inBindoo townland, with a capacity of 48 MW.[30][needs update] Peat cutting exists in the northwest of the county, in theCuilcagh range. Major industries such as Quinn Quaries and Gypsum Industries are also important employers within the county. There are a number of quarries located in the county and the Quinn cement facility is located inBallyconnell.[31]
Average Disposable Income per Person in Cavan is €17,251, roughly €4,000 behindDublin, Ireland's richest county and 89.3% of the state average. The county has seen a significant drop in average disposable income since the 2006 Census.[32][33]
Timothy J. Campbell – Cavan-born American lawyer and politician from New York
Dallán Forgaill (Saint Dallán orEochaid mac Colla) – early Christian poet, writer, and martyr to whom the original Old Irish words of the hymn "Be Thou My Vision" are often attributed
Marcus Daly – Cavan-born American businessman known as one of the three "Copper Kings" of Butte, Montana, United States
^Local Government Act 1925, s. 3: Abolition of rural district councils (No. 5 of 1925, s. 3). Enacted on 26 March 1925. Act of theOireachtas. Retrieved fromIrish Statute Book on 22 December 2021.
^European Parliament Elections (Amendment) Act 2019, s. 7: Substitution of Third Schedule to Principal Act (No. 7 of 2019, s. 7). Enacted on 12 March 2019. Act of theOireachtas. Retrieved fromIrish Statute Book on 21 December 2021.