 Jakob Schubert in the competition lead climbing final of the2018 IFSC World Championships | |
| Highestgoverning body | IFSC |
|---|---|
| Nicknames | Sport climbing |
| First played | 1985 (Lead), 1998 (Bouldering,Speed) |
| Characteristics | |
| Type | Individual sport |
| Equipment | Shoes,chalk,harness,rope,quickdraws |
| Venue | Indoor climbing wall |
| Presence | |
| Olympic | Since2020 |
| Paralympic | to be included in2028 |
| World Games | 2005–present |
| Part ofa series on |
| Climbing |
|---|
| Lists |
| Types ofrock climbing |
| Types ofmountaineering |
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| Key terms |
Competition climbing is a form of regulatedrock-climbing competition heldindoors on purpose-built artificialclimbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition climbing disciplines arelead climbing,bouldering, andspeed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner (or the "combined" winner). Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given topre-bolted lead climbing.[1]
Incompetition lead climbing, competitors start at the bottom of apre-boltedsport climbingroute and lead-climb to touch or secure the highestclimbing hold possible within a set time limit on a single attempt, making sure to clip the rope into pre-placedquickdraws while ascending. Incompetition bouldering, competitors climb short bouldering problems without a rope, with an emphasis on the number of problems completed, and the attempts necessary to do so. Incompetition speed climbing, competitors race-off in pairs on a standardised 'speed climbing wall' using atop rope on anauto belay, in the shortest time.
TheInternational Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) regulates and organizes international competition climbing events, including the biennialIFSC Climbing World Championships, and the annualIFSC Climbing World Cup that is held as a series of events during the year. Competition climbing was first featured at the2020 Summer Olympics in a once-off single combined format per gender, with the results based on a combination of lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing performances. Climbing at the2024 Olympics had speed climbing as a standalone event, although lead and boulder are still a combined event.
Competition climbing dates from the arrival ofsport climbing in the mid-1980s, which is a type of rock climbing where theclimbing protection ispre-bolted into theclimbing route, so the climber does not have to worry about their safety while ascending. Some were reticent about the ethics of competitive climbing, and in early 1985, several leading climbers signed theManifeste des 19 [fr], rejecting the concept. However, later in 1985, the first internationally recognized competition climbing event was held atSportroccia, which later became the annualRock Master competition. These were annual lead climbing competitions held outdoors on natural rock surfaces and their first winners wereStefan Glowacz,Patrick Edlinger andCatherine Destivelle.[2][3][4]
In 1988–89, the French Federation and Paul Brasset convinced theUIAA to regulate and administer competition climbing; it was agreed that events would be held on indoor artificial climbing walls and goverened by the a UIAA-subgroup known as theInternational Council for Competition Climbing (ICC).[2][3] In 1989, the firstUIAA Climbing World Cup was held over seven events around the world.[4] In 1991, the first biennialUIAA World Climbing Championships was held in Frankfurt.[2][3] In 1992, the firstUIAA Climbing World Youth Championships was held in Basel.[2][3] In 1998, bouldering and speed climbing were added alongside lead climbing for UIAA competition climbing events.[2][3][4] In 2005, competition climbing was added to theWorld Games.[2][3] In 2006–07, the UIAA-ICC ceded governance of competition climbing to a newly formedInternational Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) that theInternational Olympic Committee provisionally recognised.[2][3]
In August 2016, the IOC announced that competition climbing would be a sport in the2020 Summer Olympics, but that lead, boulder, and speed would be combined into a single medal event; this caused upset however it allowed the maximum number of disciplines to feature at the Olympics.[5][6] During August 3–6, 2021,Alberto Ginés López andJanja Garnbret won the first-evermen's andwomen's Olympic climbing gold medals at theTokyo Olympics, in the newly created combined event consisting of all three disciplines.[3][7]
After the Tokyo Olympics, it was announced that the2024 Paris Olympics would only combine lead climbing and bouldering into a single medal event, with speed climbing as a standalone medal event.[8]
In competition lead climbing, the competitors have 6 minutes to climb a 15-metre (49 ft) challenging, and usually significantly overhanging,pre-boltedsport-climbing route (with pre-placedquickdraws for their protection), constructed by aroute setter.[9][10] For the safety of the competitors, they must also clip their safety rope into the various quickdraws (that are attached to the bolts) while they ascend the route; failing to clip into a quickdraw terminates their climb at that position.[9][10]
In the wider sport of rock-climbing, pre-bolted lead-climbing routes are known assport climbs (in contrast totraditional climbing, where the climber places removable protection equipment as they ascend the route), confusingly however, "competition climbing" is sometimes also called "sport climbing", even though it also has bouldering and speed climbing.[1][10]
The climber is allowed one single attempt at the route.[9][10] Their score on the route is determined by the highest artificial hold number that they "controlled" before falling (i.e. all the artificial holds on the wall are numbered, starting with 1 at the bottom); if in addition, they had "used" that hold to make a controlled movement for the next hold before falling, a "+" is added to their score.[10] For example, falling while secured on hold 34, while reaching for hold 35, earns a score of "34+".[9]
Between rounds, the competitors are collectively given 6 minutes to inspect — but not attempt or practice — the next route.[9][10] After the brief inspection, they are kept in an isolation area to prevent them from observing other competitors on the route and collecting itsbeta (which would help them toflash the route); they are thus effectively lead climbing the artificial route as anonsight, which is the most difficult way toascend a new route.[9]
In competition bouldering, the competitors have to "solve" multiple short 4.5-metre (15 ft) bouldering problems over a set time period, with the fewest falls.[9][10] In contrast to lead climbing, these boulder problems are more complex, but each boulder problem can be attempted multiple times – with repeated falls – within a certain time limit (usually 5 minutes in qualifiers and 4 minutes in finals).[9][10] As in all bouldering, the competitors do not use a rope or anyclimbing protection, butcrash pads that are laid across the ground for safety.[9]
Each individual boulder problem has an official start position with proscribed positions for all four of the competitor's limbs at the base of the problem.[9] The competitor is judged to have completed the boulder problem when they have placed their two hands on the explicitly marked "top" hold and held it long enough to receive confirmation from the judge.[10] In addition to the top hold, "zone holds" are located at the mid-point of the problem, which if secured, earn a half point, in lieu of failing to earn a full point by "topping".[9][10]
As with competition lead climbing, the competitors cannot see each other's attempts which would help them to learn route's beta.[9] The climber's score is determined by the overall number of routes "topped", the most "zone holds" reached, and the number of attempts needed.[9][10] Where two climbers have the same score (i.e. "tops" plus "zones"), the number of "tops" takes precedence, and where they are still level, the fewest attempts takes precedence.[10]
In competition speed climbing, the competitors must ascend a 15-metre (49 ft), slightly overhanging, standardised climbing wall, where, unlike leading climbing or bouldering, the holds are always the exact same size and placed in the exact same location.[9][10] As the emphasis is on speed, the climbers do not have the time to clip into quickdraws (as per competition lead climbing) and instead use an auto-belaytop rope for climbing protection.[9][10]
In qualification, competitors race in pairs in Lane A and Lane B, however, they are not racing against each other, but against the clock.[9][10] Each competitor during qualification races twice — once in each Lane — and the eight fastest competitors, using their best time, reach the finals.[9] In the finals, competitors race against each other in elimination rounds, with the winner, regardless of time, advancing until the ultimate winner is decided.[9][10]
Over the years, two different combinations of disciplines have comprised the combined format. They can either be held as additional competitions or be calculated from the results of the other events.[11] The IFSC combined all three events into one competition from 2017 to 2021, after which they split out speed but kept boulder and lead in a combined format.
As sport climbing was allocated only a single medal per gender at itsOlympic debut in 2020, the IFSC opted to merge lead, boulder and speed into a single format, first held at the 2017 Climbing Youth World Championships. Individual rounds were scored as usual. For the overall result, an athletes ranks in each of the three competitions were multiplied, leaving the competitor with the lowest score as the winner.[6][7][11]
For the2024 Olympics two medals per gender were allocated. Speed climbing is now separate from theBoulder & Lead competition.[12]
Each of the four boulders features two zones worth 5 and 10 points respectively, and a top worth 25 points. Points are awarded for the highest hold controlled by the climber, minus 0.1 points for each attempt needed to reach that hold. On the lead route, the last ten holds from the top are worth 4 points each, the 10 before those 3 points each etc. If the last hold reached is not only controlled but used to progress along the route, 0.1 points will be added to the score. The scores of each round are added with the competitor with the highest score as the winner.[11]
The most important competition climbing events are administered by theInternational Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC):[2][13]
Climbing was included for the first time inthe 2020 Olympics as an additional sport.[2][6] The decision to combine three disciplines of lead, boulder and speed climbing into a single event had caused widespread criticism in the climbing world.[14] Inthe 2024 Olympics, boulder-and-lead combined and speed climbing were held as separate events.[12]
On 3 February 2022, the IOC designated sport climbing as a core Summer Olympic sport starting withthe 2028 Olympics.[15]
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As of 2023, themost successful overall male competition climber in history is Austrian climberJakob Schubert, followed by Czech climberAdam Ondra, and French climberFrançois Legrand. Legrand is the most successful lead competition climber, Austrian climberKilian Fischhuber is the most successful bouldering competition climber, and Chinese climber Zhong Qixin is the most successful speed competition climber.
As of 2023, themost successful overall female competition climber in history is Slovenian climberJanja Garnbret, followed by French climberSandrine Levet, and Austrian climberAngela Eiter. Garnbret is also the most successful lead competition climber, Levet also is the most successful bouldering competition climber, and Russian climber Tatiana Ruyga is the most successful speed competition climber.
As of 2023, Garnbret is the most dominant competition climber, male or female, of all time.[16][17]
As competition climbing developed in the 1980s, some of the leading sport climbers largely ignored it to focus on setting newgrade milestones in sport climbing. German climberWolfgang Güllich, the strongest sport climber of that era, avoided the climbing competition circuit throughout his career saying: "competitions are good for earning money, I see it as nothing more".[18] In 1990, British leading climberJerry Moffatt retired early from a promising competition climbing career saying: "I no longer had energy the energy to keep it all up. I wanted to get myself back again. I wanted to see my friends. I wanted to climb for myself. I wanted to dofirst ascents. Most of all I wanted to have fun".[19][20] In 2001, American climberChris Sharma, the strongest sport climber of his era, also retired early from competition climbing saying: "Personally, that's not ever really been my deal. I mean, competitions are fun, but 15 minutes after the competition they take the holds off. It's way more important for me to put up new routes and develop my vision in rock climbing. Create a legacy, create something lasting. No one remembers who won the freakin' World Cup in 1997, but people know who put upAction Directe.[21]
Since 2010, it has become increasingly rare for leading male and female rock climbers, both in sport climbing and bouldering, not to begin their careers as successful competition climbers. Exceptions remain, including leading French sport climberSeb Bouin, who wanted to instead focus on finding "mega lines" (a reference to Sharma's "King Lines") on outdoor crags, which he described as his sole motivation.[22]
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