Cholent

Alternative names	Schalet,Hamin
Type	Sabbath stew
Place of origin	France[1]
Created by	Ashkenazi Jews
Main ingredients	Whole grains,meat,beans,potatoes
Variations	Hamin
Media:Cholent

Cholent orSchalet (Yiddish:טשאָלנט,romanized: tsholnt) is a traditional slow-simmeringSabbath stew inJewish cuisine that was developed byAshkenazi Jews first inFrance and laterGermany,^[1] and is first mentioned in the 12th century.^[2] It is related to and is thought to have been derived fromhamin, a similar Sabbath stew that emerged inSpain amongSephardic Jews and made its way to France by way ofProvence.^[1]

Max Weinreich traces the etymology ofcholent to theLatin present participlecalentem (anaccusative form ofcalēns), meaning "that which is hot" (as incalorie), viaOld Frenchchalant (present participle ofchalt, from the verbchaloir, "to warm").^[3][4] One widely quotedfolk etymology derives the word fromFrenchchaud ("hot") andlent ("slow").^[5] Another folk etymology derivescholent (orsholen) fromשלן, which means "that rested [overnight]", referring to the tradition of Jewish families placing their individual pots of cholent into the town baker'sovens that always stayed hot and slow-cooked the food overnight.^[6] Another mooted etymology is from Old Frenchchaudes lentilles (hot lentils).^{[citation needed]}

Shabbat stews were developed over the centuries to conform withJewish laws that prohibit cooking on the Sabbath. The pot is brought to a boil on Friday before the Sabbath begins, and sometimes kept on ablech orhotplate, or left in a slow oven or electricslow cooker, until the following day. Cholent originated as a barleyporridge in ancientJudea as a type of "harisa".^[1] Over the centuries variousJewish diaspora communities created their own variations of the dish based on local food resources and neighborhood influence.

There are many variations of the dish, which is standard in both theAshkenazi andSephardi kitchens and among other communities.^[7] The basic ingredients of cholent aremeat,potatoes,beans, andbarley though all shabbat stews contain some type of grain and meat or featuredvegetable. Slow overnight cooking allows the flavors of the various ingredients to permeate and produces the characteristic taste of each local stew.

In traditionalAshkenazi,Sephardi, andMizrahi families, stew is the hotmain course of the midday Shabbat meal served on Saturdays typically after the morning synagogue services for practicing Jews.Secular Jewish families also serve stews like cholent or eat them in Israeli restaurants.^[8] For practicing Jews, lighting a fire and cooking food are among theactivities prohibited on Shabbat by the writtenTorah.^[9] Therefore, cooked Shabbat food must be prepared before the onset of the Jewish Shabbat at sunset Friday night.

Cholent was first mentioned by name 1180 CE by R. Yitzhak ben Moshe of Vienna who says "I saw in France in the home of my teacher R. Yehuda bar Yitzhak that sometimes their cholent pots were buried. And on Shabbat before the meal, the servants light the fire near the cauldrons so that they warm well, and some remove them and bring them close to the fire".^[2]

The origins ofcholent date back to the 11th century, when the ChristianReconquista ofAl-Andalus orIslamic Spain, when culinary techniques from the Moorish period spread northwards into Europe throughProvence. In the late 12th or early 13th century, the SephardicSabbath stew known ashamin became a part of the traditions of the Jews of France.^[1]

Among the FrenchAshkenazi Jewish population, the traditional stew was renamedtsholnt,cholent orschalet, likely from the old French for warm,chald orchalt (the antecedent of today'schaud), or fromchald-de-lit ("warmth of the bed").^[1]

By the 13th century, the stew is described as having become widespread in Bohemia and Germany. Originally made withfava beans, thecholent of the French Ashkenazi was substituted with driedharicot beans from theAmericas in the sixteenth century. Since then,white beans,red kidney beans,pinto beans, and driedlima beans have all become common ingredients.^[1] Some Romanians addchickpeas in "a remnant of theSephardic influence due toOttoman control of the area".^[1]

Since European agriculture favouredbread wheat instead ofdurum, substitutions were made. In Germany,spelt became common incholent, while in Eastern Europe, the grain of choice becamebarley.^[1] The usual choice of meat in cholent is beef, either flank orbrisket, or, occasionally in Western and Central Europe, goose or duck.^[1]

In the mid-19th century, Polishcholent featured generous amounts of potato, while Hungariancholent used no potato at all.^[1] German variations added root vegetables. Onions might be added fried or raw, alongside garlic. The stew might also be sweetened with honey, sugar, or fruit, and spiced withcloves,paprika, orbay leaves.^[1]

As theJewish diaspora grew with Jewish migrations into Europe, North Africa, and elsewhere in the Middle East and Central Asia, Jewish diaspora communities developed their own variations of the dish based on the local climate, available ingredients and local influence.^[10] John Cooper argues that shabbat stews like cholent would have spread from Jerusalem east towards Babylon and simultaneously across the Mediterranean by North Africa into Iberia and eventually Italy and France^[11] while Marks cites Persian, Yemen, and Italian communities to predate Sephardim in Iberia.^[1]

The most accessible foods to Jews living in Israel before the destruction of theSecond Temple are likely to have been theMediterranean triad: grain, oil and wine, which were available at low cost and vast amounts. While both wheat and barley were grown in Israel, barley was more likely to supplement inland diets. Cooper argues wheat would have been twice as expensive as barley which could grow in rougher soils closer to Jerusalem.^[6] Barley could also be harvested earlier ensuring multiple crops in the same season.^[1]

Meats were consideredluxury goods that few could afford, except on special occasions like Shabbat and other holidays. Lamb and goat would have been more common as they grazed in arid climates, and provided supplementary products likewool and milk, while cattle were more expensive to maintain and prized assacrificial offerings.^[12][13]

Chicken was likely domesticated in Southeast Asia and popularized in Ur around 2100 BCE, though the Israelites would have been less likely to eat it due to association of Roman sacrifice.^[14] Until the8th century, the upkeep for chickens meant they could only be raised in small numbers, making them a delicacy few could afford outside of Shabbat.^[15]Olla podrida rose in popularity in the13th century featuring a porridge of vegetables, spices, and meat, usually beef. A famine in the14th century in Northern Europe caused a rise in cattle prices near Western Europe and North Africa,^[16] where most Jews were living under Moorish rule.^[17] This led to chicken replacing cattle as livestock, and resulted in many recipe alterations to accommodate these changes in Iberia and Northern Africa.

The increase in chicken led to a surplus of eggs as a renewable resource. "Huevos haminados" began to describe the long process of long roasting eggs in hamin pots overnight that produced a signature aroma. The concept of "re'ach nicho'ach" describes the direct line of spiritual connection of scents from the nose to the soul.^[18] giving the egg an extra spiritual strength for Jews.^[19] In Kabbalah, the eggs are even watched over by an angel.^[20]

The rise of the Spanish conquest of Iberia, known as theReconquista, stretched from as early as the establishment of Christian KingdomAsturias in the early 8th century^[21] until the surrendering of Granada in 1492 by the ruling Moorish Kingdom.^[22] Jews were faced with limited options after theAlhambra Decree expelled non-Christian religious practices or face expulsion. Jews who migrated west across the Mediterranean after the destruction of the Second Temple became known as "Sephardic" Jews (literally Spanish Jews)^[23] and often reintegrated themselves to well established Jewish communities in North Africa or even the Ottoman Empire whereladino language, a mix of Hebrew and Spanish, began to explode in popularity.^[24]

Jews "conversos" (converts) converted, either sincerely or as a ruse, began to mainstream Jewish practices into Iberian culture. Sephardim who remained religious learned to hide observation of shabbat by "hiding" or "concealing" their pots in the embers of household fires or underground ovens from their Christian neighbors.^[25] Hamin became known as adafina or dafina as local ingredients changed hamin's base to a rice and chicken dish to match local practices. Stews like "Gallina a la Vinagreta" began to rise in popularity nationally around the same making the ingredients almost indistinguishable.^[26]

The slow warming of the embers inspired an extra layer of precaution to the prohibition of cooking on shabbat, theblech. The blech covers a fire or modern stovetops to prevent cooking while allowing heat to transfer from one item to another indirectly as a warm source without "kindling".^[27] Hamin, scheena and cholent all commonly use a blech pinpointing their distinctions to a similar time period.^[28] The unique cooking requirements of hamin were later the inspiration for the invention of theslow cooker.^[29][30]

Even in ancient Israel, it is likely that vegetables supplemented stews with native vegetables like leek, garlic, and onions, which were more accessible to poorer communities like future Ashkenazi.^[31] Historians have little proof other than modern economic trends; these recipes were not well-documented at the time, and the decomposition of vegetables makes it difficult to find conclusive archaeological evidence of their presence in any given period.^[32]

After theColumbian Exchange, new vegetables likepotatoes,tomatoes, and beans rose in popularity. They offered more substantial nutrients at lower costs than meats but with more flavor than barley, wheat, or rice. In the Maghreb, a South American hot chili pepper called "harissa" thrived in the region's soil. Slow cooking crushed wheat, tomatoes, and harissa created a spicy sauce that added new flavors to classic rice dishes.^[33]

Beans from theNew World rapidly replaced barley and rice used in North Africa and Europe. In Greece and Turkey, "avicas" substituted the rice in hamin with white beans and even smaller haricot beans left over from Shabbat's Friday night dinner.^[34]

In Israel, cholent has become a dish widely available in restaurants. In 2013,cholenterias, casual restaurants specializing in cholent, emerged inBnei Brak and theHaredi neighborhoods of Jerusalem, and became the premier night hangout areas for Haredi men. Soon afterwards, cholent dishes spread to restaurants in secular areas.^[35]

Sephardim in Tel Aviv originated "sofrito" made of beef, potatoes, and various spices eaten at Friday night shabbat dinners and added to the main meal the next day.^[36]

In Germany, the Netherlands, and other western European countries the special hot dish for the Shabbat lunch is known asschalet,shalent, orshalet.^[37]

The Jewish people of Hungary adapted theHungarian dishsólet to serve the same purpose as cholent. Sólet was likely modified by the Jewish people living inPannonia when theMagyars arrived.^[38] This pork version of solet became so popular that it is sold across the country as a canned good in grocery stores.^[39]

In Italy, pasta is a common substitute for beans or rice in shabbat stews^[5] and is called "hamin macaron" when sampled in Iberia.^[40] The rise of Chassidism in the late 18th century popularized black beans in Eastern Europe as theBaal Shem Tov's favorite bean^[41] while Alsatian Cholent in France featured lima beans.^[42]

To honor the tradition of eggs in cholent, some American Jews long roast meatloaves for Friday night and place whole eggs to be peeled and eaten.^[43]The Kosher Cajun Cookbook features New Orleans-style Cajun food with kosher substitutes like gumbo and jambalaya.^[44] Puerto Rican hamin is considered a stewed "arroz con pollo."^[45]

In theshtetls ofEurope, religious neighborhoods in Jerusalem, and other cities in the Land of Israel before the advent of electricity and cooking gas, a pot with the assembled but uncooked ingredients was brought to the local baker before sunset on Fridays. The baker would put the pot with the cholent mixture in his oven, which was always kept fired, and families would come by to pick up their cooked cholent on Saturday mornings. The same practice was observed inMorocco, where black pots of s'hina were placed overnight in bakers' ovens and then delivered by bakers' assistants to households on Shabbat morning.^[37] Jewish stews were characterized by flour paste used to seal pots to prevent cooking and tampering which could cause the meal to becometreif.^{[clarification needed][46]}

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