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Chiton (garment)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Sewn garment in Ancient Greece
For the Neapolitan tailoring brand, seeKiton.
Charioteer of Delphi in an Ionic chiton

Achiton (/ˈktɒn,-tən/;Ancient Greek:χιτών,romanizedkhitṓn[kʰitɔ̌ːn]) is a form oftunic that fastens at the shoulder, worn by men and women ofancient Greece and Rome.[1][2] There are two forms of chiton: theDoric and the laterIonic. According to Herodotus, popular legend was that Athenian women began to wear the chiton as opposed to thepeplos after several women stabbed a messenger to death with the bronze pins characteristic of the peplos.[3]

Etymology

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The wordchiton is derived from aCentral Semitic language *kittān (e.g.Hebrewכֻּתֹּנֶתkuttṓnĕṯ), ultimately from a word for 'flax'.[4][5]

Different forms and wearing styles

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A shorter version of the chiton was called thechitoniskos.

Doric chiton

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TheDoric chiton is a single rectangle ofwoolen or linen fabric. It can be worn plain or with an overfold called anapoptygma (ἀπόπτυγμα), which is more common to women. It can be draped and fastened at the shoulder by pins (Greek: peronai;[6] Latin:fibulae) or sewing, or by buttons.[7]

Ionic chiton

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TheIonic chiton could also be made from linen or wool and was draped without the fold and held in place from neck to wrist by several small pins or buttons.

Herodotus states the dress of the women in Athens was changed from the Doricpeplos to the Ionic chiton after the widows of the men killedon military expedition to Aegina stabbed and killed the sole survivor with their peplos pins, each demanding where their husband was. This lynching 'seemed a thing more terrible than the disaster'. Thereafter their chitons were held with buttons, often styled with the face of theGorgon.

Zoster

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Belting of the charioteer (front view above)

A large belt called azoster could be worn over the chiton, usually under the breast ("high-girdled") or around the waist ("low-girdled") or a narrower "zone" or girdle could be used. The chiton's length was greater than the height of the wearer, so excessive fabric was pulled above the belt, like a blouse. A double-girdled style also existed. The chiton was often worn in combination with the heavierhimation over it, which had the role of a cloak.

Monochiton

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Two women wearing simplechiton poderes, without a belt or apoptygma (overfold). As they are not wearing himations, these are monochitons

When used alone (without a himation), the chiton was called amonochiton. A long chiton which reached the heels was called achiton poderes, while a longer one which dragged the ground was called achiton syrtos or anhelkekhitōn (ἑλκεχίτων) (lit.'a chiton that drags the ground').[8][9] A woman's chiton would always be worn at ankle length. Men wore the long chiton during the Archaic period, but later wore it at knee length, except for certain occupations such as priests and charioteers, and also the elderly.

A sleeved form was worn by priests and actors. The colour or pattern would often indicate status, but varied over time. The chiton was the outfit ofAphrodite because it was considered very feminine, although men also wore it.Dionysus is often depicted wearing it. The chiton was also worn by theRomans after the 3rd century BC. However, they referred to it as atunica. An example of the chiton can be seen, worn by thecaryatids, in the porch of theErechtheion in Athens. A charioteer's chiton can be seen on theCharioteer of Delphi (474 BC) in the image at the beginning of the article.[10]

This statuette of a Laconian shows a short oneshouldered chiton.

InSparta, Laconian women's clothing was simple and short. They wore the Dorianpeplos, with slit skirts which bared their thighs.[11] The Dorian peplos was made of a heavier woolen material than was common in Ionia, and was fastened at the shoulder by pins.[12] When running races, Spartan girls wore a distinctive single-shouldered knee-length chiton.[13]

See also

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References

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  1. ^Wilson, Nigel, ed. (2006).Encyclopedia of Ancient Greece. Psychology Press. pp. 245–.ISBN 978-0-415-97334-2.
  2. ^Radicke, Jan (2022-11-07)."1 tunica – Roman tunica and Greek chiton".Roman Women's Dress. De Gruyter. pp. 243–276.doi:10.1515/9783110711554-017.ISBN 978-3-11-071155-4.
  3. ^Garland, p. 144
  4. ^"Dress in the International Standard Bible Encyclopedia".International Standard Bible Encyclopedia Online.
  5. ^Blinderman, Charles (January 1, 1990).BIOLEXICON: A Guide to the Language of Biology. Charles C Thomas Publisher.ISBN 9780398082277 – via Google Books.
  6. ^περόνη.Liddell, Henry George;Scott, Robert;A Greek–English Lexicon at thePerseus Project.
  7. ^Elderkin, Kate (1928). "Buttons and their Use in Greek Garments".The American Journal of Archaeology.32 (3):333–345.doi:10.2307/497471.JSTOR 497471.S2CID 191392772.
  8. ^Autenrieth, Georg (1984).Homeric Dictionary. Duckworth Press. p. 330.ISBN 0-7156-1773-7.
  9. ^ἑλκεχίτων inLiddell andScott.
  10. ^"Charioteer of Delphi, Museum of Antiquities, Delphi". Usask.ca. Archived fromthe original on 2016-10-06. Retrieved2018-04-19.
  11. ^Pomeroy 1994, p. 36
  12. ^Pomeroy 2002, p. 134
  13. ^Pomeroy 2002, p. 31

Sources

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External links

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Wikimedia Commons has media related toChiton.
Clothing generally not worn today, except in historical settings
Body-length
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Skirts
Dresses
Outerwear
Underwear
Headwear
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