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Chanel

Coordinates:51°30′38″N0°08′36″W / 51.51054°N 0.1432786°W /51.51054; -0.1432786
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
French fashion house
For other uses, seeChanel (disambiguation).
Not to be confused withChannel.
Due to technical limitations, "Chanel #5" directs here. For the fragrance by Chanel, seeChanel No. 5.

Chanel Ltd
Chanel Fragrance & Beauty boutique,Miami
Company typePrivate
IndustryFashion
Founded1910; 116 years ago (1910)
Paris, France[1]
FoundersCoco Chanel andPierre Wertheimer
Headquarters5 Barlow PlaceLondon, W1J 6DG United Kingdom
51°30′38″N0°08′36″W / 51.51054°N 0.1432786°W /51.51054; -0.1432786
Number of locations
500+boutiques[2]
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Products
RevenueIncreaseUS$19.7 billion (2023)[2]
6,407,000,000 United States dollar (2023) Edit this on Wikidata
IncreaseUS$4.0 billion (2021)[2]
Owners
Number of employees
32,000[2] (aug 2024)
Websitechanel.com

Chanel (/ʃəˈnɛl/shə-NEL,French:[ʃanɛl]) is a Frenchluxuryfashion house founded in 1910 byCoco Chanel inParis. It is privately owned by French brothers,Alain andGérard Wertheimer, through theholding companyChanel Limited, established in 2018 and headquartered inLondon.

Chanel specializes in women'sready-to-wear, luxury goods, and accessories and licenses its name and branding toLuxottica for eyewear.[3][4] Chanel is well known for itsNo. 5 perfume and "Chanel Suit".[5] Chanel is credited for revolutionizinghaute couture and ready-to-wear by replacing structured,corseted silhouettes with more functional garments that women still found flattering.[6]

History

[edit]

Coco Chanel era

[edit]
Establishment and recognition (1909–1920s)
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1920

The House of Chanel originated in 1909, when Gabrielle Chanel opened amillinery shop at 160Boulevard Malesherbes, the ground floor of the Parisian flat of thesocialite and textile businessmanÉtienne Balsan, of whom she was the mistress.[4] Because the Balsan flat also was asalon for the French hunting and sporting élite, Chanel had the opportunity to meet theirdemi-mondaine mistresses who, as such, were women of fashion, upon whom the rich men displayed their wealth – as ornate clothes, jewellery, and hats.

The actress Gabrielle Dorziat wearing a Chanel plumed hat (1912)

Coco Chanel would sell them the hats she designed and made, thus earning a living independent of Balsan. In the course of those salons, Coco Chanel befriendedArthur "Boy" Capel, an English socialite andpolo player friend of Étienne Balsan; per the upper class social custom, Chanel also became mistress to Boy Capel. In 1910, Boy Capel financed her first independent millinery shop,Chanel Modes, at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris. Because that locale already housed a dress shop, the business-lease limited Chanel to selling only millinery products, notcouture. Two years later 1913, theDeauville andBiarritzcouture shops of Coco Chanel offered for saleprêt-à-porter sports clothes for women, the practical designs of which allowed the wearer to play sports.[4][6]

TheFirst World War (1914–1918), affected European fashion through scarcity of materials, and the mobilisation of women. By that time, Chanel had opened a large dress shop at 31 Rue Cambon, near theHôtel Ritz, in Paris. Among the clothes for sale wereflannelblazers, straight-line skirts oflinen,sailor blouses, longsweaters made ofjersey fabric, and skirt-and-jacket suits.

Coco Chanel used jersey cloth because of its physical properties as a garment, such as its drape – how it falls upon and falls from the body of the woman – and how well it adapted to a simple garment-design. Sartorially, some of Chanel's designs derived from the military uniforms made prevalent by the War; and, by 1915, the designs and the clothes produced by the House of Chanel were known throughout France.[4] In 1915, Chanel opened her very first Couture House in Biarritz, France. She had 300 employees and even designed her first line of Haute Couture.[7]

In 1915 and in 1917,Harper's Bazaar magazine reported that the garments of La Maison Chanel were "on the list of every buyer" for the clothing factories of Europe.[4] The Chanel dress shop at 31 Rue Cambon presented day-wear dress-and-coat ensembles of simple design, and black evening dresses trimmed with lace; andtulle-fabric dresses decorated withjet, a minor gemstone material.[4]

Illustration of three women in Chanel day outfits consisting of belted tunic jackets and full jersey skirts, 1917

After the First World War, La Maison Chanel, following the fashion trends of the 1920s, produced beaded dresses made popular byFlapper women.[4] The simple-line, 'flat-chested' fashions Chanelcouture made popular were opposite of thehourglass figure fashions of the late 19th century – theBelle Époque of France (c. 1890–1914), and the BritishEdwardian era (c. 1901–1919). Chanel used colors traditionally associated with masculinity in Europe, such as grey and navy blue, to denote feminine boldness.[6][8] Chanel clothing often featured quilted fabric and leather trimmings; the quilted construction reinforced the fabric, design, and finish, allowing the garment to maintain its form and function while worn. An example is thewoolen Chanel suit – a knee-length skirt and a cardigan-style jacket, trimmed and decorated with blackembroidery and gold-coloured buttons, often accessorized with two-tonepump shoes, a necklace of pearls, and a leather handbag.[4][6][9]

In 1921, to complement Chanel's clothing lines, Coco Chanel commissioned perfumerErnest Beaux to create a perfume for La Maison Chanel. His perfumes included the perfumeNo.5, named after the number of the sample Chanel liked best. Originally, given as a gift to clients, No.5's popularity prompted La Maison Chanel to offer it for sale in 1922.

In 1923, to explain the success of her clothes, Coco Chanel toldHarper's Bazaar magazine that design "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance."[4][10]

Business partners (late 1920s)

The success of theNo. 5 encouraged Coco Chanel to expand perfume sales beyond France and Europe and to develop other perfumes – for which she required investment capital, business acumen, and access to the North American market. To that end, the businessmanThéophile Bader (founder ofGaleries Lafayette) introduced theventure capitalistPierre Wertheimer to Coco Chanel. Their business deal established the Parfums Chanel company, aparfumerie of which Wertheimer owned 70 per cent, Bader owned 20 per cent, and Chanel owned 10 per cent.[9]

Nonetheless, despite the success of the Chanel couture andparfumerie, the personal relations between Coco and her capitalist partner deteriorated, because, Coco said that Pierre Wertheimer was exploiting her talents as a fashion designer and as a businesswoman.[9] Wertheimer reminded Chanel that he had made her a very rich woman; and that his venture capital had funded Chanel's productive expansion of theparfumerie which created the wealth they enjoyed, all from the success of No. 5 de Chanel.

Nevertheless, unsatisfied, the businesswoman Gabrielle Chanel hired the attorneyRené de Chambrun to renegotiate the 10-per-cent partnership she entered, in 1924, with the Parfums Chanel company; the lawyer-to-lawyer negotiations failed, and the partnership-percentages remained as established in the original business deal among Wertheimer, Badel, and Chanel.[9]

War (1930s–1940s)

From thegamine fashions of the 1920s, Coco Chanel progressed to womanly fashions in the 1930s: evening-dress designs were characterised by an elongated feminine style, and summer dresses featured contrasts such as silver eyelets, and shoulder straps decorated withrhinestones – drawing from Renaissance-time fashion stylings. In 1932, Chanel presented an exhibition of jewellery dedicated to the diamond as a fashion accessory; it featured theComet andFountain necklaces of diamonds, which were of such original design, that Chanel S.A. re-presented them in 1993. Moreover, by 1937, the House of Chanel had expanded the range of its clothes to more women and presentedprêt-à-porter clothes designed and cut for the petite woman.[4] Among fashion designers, only the clothes created byElsa Schiaparelli could compete with the clothes of Chanel.[4]

Chanel's spymaster:
GeneralWalter Schellenberg, Chief of theSicherheitsdienst

During theSecond World War (1939–45), Coco Chanel closed shop at Maison Chanel – leaving only jewellery andparfumerie for sale – and moved to theHôtel Ritz Paris, where she lived with her boyfriend, Hans Günther von Dincklage, a Nazi intelligence officer.[4][6][9] Upon conquering France in June 1940, the Nazis established a Parisian occupation-headquarters in theHôtel Meurice, on theRue de Rivoli, opposite theLouvre Museum, and just around the corner from the fashionable Maison Chanel S.A., at 31 Rue Cambon.[4]

Meanwhile, because of the Nazi occupation's official anti-Semitism, Pierre Wertheimer and family, had fled France to the U.S., in mid-1940. Later, in 1941, Coco Chanel attempted to assume business control of Parfums Chanel but was thwarted by an administrativedelegation that disallowed her sole disposition of theparfumerie. Having foreseen the Nazi occupation policy of the seizure-and-expropriation to Germany of Jewish business and assets in France, Pierre Wertheimer, the majority partner, had earlier, in May 1940, designatedFelix Amiot, a Christian French industrialist, as the "Aryan" proxy whose legal control of the Parfums Chanel business proved politically acceptable to the Nazis, who then allowed the perfume company to continue as an operating business.[9][11]

Occupied France abounded with rumours that Coco Chanel was a Nazicollaborator; her clandestine identity was secret agent 7124 of theAbwehr, code-named "Westminster".[12] As such, by order of GeneralWalter Schellenberg, of theSicherheitsdienst, Chanel was despatched to London on a mission to communicate to British Prime MinisterWinston Churchill the particulars of a "separate peace" plan proposed byReichsführer-SSHeinrich Himmler, who sought to avoid surrendering to theRed Army of the Soviet Russians.

At War's end, upon theAllied liberation of France, Chanel was arrested for having collaborated with the Nazis. In September 1944, theFree French Purge Committee, theépuration, summoned Chanel for interrogation about her collaborationism, yet, without documentary evidence of or witnesses to her collaboration with the Nazis, and because of Churchill's secret intervention in her behalf, theépuration released Coco Chanel from arrest as a traitor to France.[9][13] Despite having been freed by the political grace of Churchill, the strength of the rumours of Chanel's Nazi collaboration had made it impossible for her to remain in France; so Coco Chanel and her German lover, Hans Günther von Dincklage, went into an eight-year exile toSwitzerland.[4][9]

In the post–war period, during Coco Chanel's Swiss exile from France, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris and regained formal administrative control of his family's business holdings – including control of Parfums Chanel, theparfumerie established with his venture capital, and successful because of the Chanel name.[9]

In Switzerland, the news revived Coco Chanel's resentment at having been exploited by her business partner, for only ten per cent of the money. So she established a rival Swissparfumerie to create, produce, and sellher "Chanel perfumes". In turn, Wertheimer, the majority capital stock owner of Parfums Chanel, saw his business interests threatened, and his commercial rights infringed because he did not possess legally exclusive rights to the Chanel name. Nonetheless, Wertheimer avoided a trademark infringement lawsuit against Coco Chanel, lest it damage the commercial reputation and the artistic credibility ofhis Chanel-brandparfumerie.

Pierre Wertheimer settled his business and commercial-rights quarrel with Chanel, and, in May 1947, they renegotiated the 1924 contract that had established Parfums Chanel – she was paid $400,000 in cash (wartime profits from the sales of perfume No. 5 de Chanel); assigned a 2.0 per cent running royalty from the sales of No. 5parfumerie; assigned limited commercial rights to sellher "Chanel perfumes" in Switzerland; and granted a perpetual monthly stipend that paid all of her expenses. In exchange, Gabrielle Chanel closed her Swissparfumerie enterprise, and sold to Parfums Chanel the full rights to the name "Coco Chanel".[9][14]

Resurgence (1950s–1970s)
A Chanel suit, 1965

In 1953, upon returning to France from Switzerland, Coco Chanel found the fashion business enamoured of the "New Look" (1947), byChristian Dior; the signature shape featured a below-mid-calf-length, full-skirt, a narrow waist, and a large bust (stylistically absent since 1912). As a post–war fashion that used some 20 yards of fabric, theHouse of Dior couture renounced wartime rationing of fabric for clothes.[9]

In 1947 – after the six-year austerities of theSecond World War (1939–45) – the New Look was welcomed by the fashion business of Western Europe because sales of the pretty clothes would revive business and the economy.[4]

To regain the business primacy of the House of Chanel, in the fashion fields ofhaute couture,prêt-à-porter, costume jewellery, andparfumerie, would be expensive; so Chanel approached Pierre Wertheimer for business advice and capital.[9] Having decided to do business with Coco Chanel, Wertheimer's negotiations to fund the resurgence of the House of Chanel, granted him commercial rights to all Chanel-brand products.[9]

In 1953, Chanel collaborated with jewelerRobert Goossens; he was to design jewelry (bijouterie and gemstone) to complement the fashions of the House of Chanel; notably, long-strand necklaces of black pearls and of white pearls, which high contrast softened the severe design of the knitted-wool Chanel Suit (skirt and cardigan jacket).[6]

The House of Chanel also presented leather handbags with either gold-colour chains or metal-and-leather chains, which allowed carrying the handbag from the shoulder or in hand. The quilted-leather handbag was presented to the public in February 1955. In-house, the numeric version of the launching date "Chanel 2.55" for that line of handbags became the internal "appellation" for that model of the quilted-leather handbag.[4]

The firm's initial venture into masculineparfumerie was aneau de toilette called Pour Monsieur. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought Bader's 20 per cent share of the Parfums Chanel, which increased the Wertheimer percentage to 90 per cent.[9]

Later, in 1965, Pierre's son,Jacques Wertheimer, assumed his father's management of theparfumerie.[9] About the past business relationship, between Pierre Wertheimer and Coco Chanel, the Chanel attorney, Chambrun said that it had been "one based on a businessman's passion, despite her misplaced feelings of exploitation . . . [thus] when Pierre returned to Paris, full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."[9]

Coco Chanel died on 10 January 1971, at the age of 87.[4] She was still designing at the time of her death.[4] For example, in the (1966–1969) period, she designed the air hostess uniforms forOlympic Airways, the designer who followed her wasPierre Cardin. In that time, Olympic Airways was a luxury airline, owned by the transport magnateAristotle Onassis. After her death, the leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourgé.[4] So far, the bags designed by Chanel are still very popular in the vintage market.[15]

After a period of time, Jacques Wertheimer bought the controlling interest of the House of Chanel.[4][9] Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company, as he was more interested in horse breeding.[9] In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories.

Alain Wertheimer, son of Jacques Wertheimer, assumed control of Chanel S.A. in 1974.[4][9] In the U.S., No. 5 de Chanel was not selling well.[9] Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased.[9] He used famous people to endorse the perfume – fromMarilyn Monroe toAudrey Tautou. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuadedKarl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion houseChloé. Chanel has partnered with friends and ambassadors over the years including notable actors, musicians, and other artists:G-Dragon,Jennie,Angèle,Whitney Peak,Caroline de Maigret,Margaret Qualley,Victoria Song,Wang Yibo,Minji,Go Youn-jung,Lily-Rose Depp,Keira Knightley,Kristen Stewart,Marion Cotillard,Nicole Kidman, andPenélope Cruz.[16][17][18][19][20][21][22][23][24][25][26][27][28][29][30][31][32]

Post-Coco era (1980s–present)

[edit]
Chanel couture by Lagerfeld: the A/W 2011–2012 collection
A Chanel store in North America

In 1981, Chanel launched Antaeus, aneau de toilette for men. In 1983Karl Lagerfeld took over as chief designer for Chanel. Like Chanel, he looked into the past as inspiration for his designs. He incorporated the Chanel fabrics and detailing such as tweed, gold accents, and chains. Lagerfeld retained what was signature for Chanel but also helped bring the brand into the present. In later collections Lagerfeld chose to break away from the ladylike look of Chanel and began to experiment with fabrics and styles. During the 1980s, more than 40 Chanel boutiques opened worldwide. By the end of the 1980s, the boutiques sold goods ranging from US$200-per-ounce perfume, US$225 ballerina slippers to US$11,000 dresses and US$2,000 leather handbags. Chanel cosmetics and fragrances were distributed only by Chanel outlets. Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn explained the firm's approach, saying, "We introduce a new fragrance every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors. We don't confuse the consumer. With Chanel, people know what to expect. And they keep coming back to us, at all ages, as they enter and leave the market." 1984 saw the launch of a new fragrance in honor of the founder,Coco. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch debuted. By the end of the decade, Alain moved the offices toNew York City.[9]

Maison de Chanel increased the Wertheimer family fortune to US$5 billion. Sales were hurt by the recession of the early 1990s, but Chanel recovered by the mid-1990s with further boutique expansion.[9]

In 1994, Chanel had a net profit equivalent to €67 million on the sale of €570 million in ready-to-wear clothes and was the most profitable French fashion house.[33]

In 1996, Chanel bought gun-makersHolland & Holland, but failed in its attempt to revamp the firm.[9] The swimwear label Eres was also purchased in 1996.[34] Chanel launched the perfumes Allure in 1996 and Allure Homme in 1998. The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, Précision, in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a travel collection, and under a license contract withLuxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames.

While Wertheimer remained chairman, Françoise Montenay became CEO and President. 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by Chanel, the J12. In 2001, watchmaker Bell & Ross was acquired. The same year, Chanel boutiques offering only selections of accessories were opened in the United States. Chanel launched a small selection of menswear as a part of their runway shows.

In 2002, Chanel launched the Chance perfume andParaffection, a subsidiary company originally established in 1997[35] to support artisanal manufacturing, that gathered together Ateliers d'Art or workshops including Desrues for ornamentation and buttons, Lemarié for feathers,Lesage for embroidery, Massaro for shoemaking and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection was designed by Karl Lagerfeld.

In July 2002, a jewelry and watch outlet opened onMadison Avenue. Within months, a 1,000-square-foot (90 m2) shoe/handbag boutique opened next door. Chanel continued to expand in the United States and by December 2002, operated 25 U.S. boutiques.[9]

The Chanel flagship store atPrince's Building, Hong Kong

Chanel introducedCoco Mademoiselle and an "In-Between Wear" in 2003, targeting younger women, opened a second shop on Rue Cambon, opened a 2,400 square feet (220 m2) boutique inCentral, Hong Kong, and paid nearly US$50 million for a building inGinza, Tokyo.

In 2007,Maureen Chiquet was appointed CEO. She remained CEO until her termination in 2016.[36]

In 2018, Chanel announced relocation of its global headquarters to London.[37][38][39] In December of the same year, Chanel announced that it would ban fur and exotic skins from its collections.[40]

In February 2019, Lagerfeld died at age 85.[41]Virginie Viard, who had worked with Lagerfeld at the fashion house for over 30 years, was named the new Creative Director.[42] Viard departed the brand in June 2024.[43]

In December 2021,Leena Nair was appointed Global Chief Executive Officer.[44][45][46]

In February 2024, Chanel opened its U.S. flagship store dedicated to watches and fine jewellery onFifth Avenue inMidtownManhattan,New York City, nearBillionaires' Row.[47]

In December 2024,Matthieu Blazy was appointed the next artistic director of Chanel.[48] Previously, he was creative director of Italian leather goods lineBottega Veneta where his work garnered critical acclaim and commercial success.[49] In a 2025 Paris fashion week space-themed runway show, Chanel ventured in a new direction with industry insiders attributing the change to Blazy.[50]

Exhibitions and retrospectives

[edit]

ThePalais Galliera featured a retrospective Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto (October 1, 2020 – August 17, 2021). The exhibit later traveled toMitsubishi Ichigokan Museum in Tokyo,National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne (December 3, 2021 – April 25, 2022), and will debut at London'sVictoria & Albert Museum (September 16, 2023).[51][52][53][54]

TheThyssenBornemisza National Museum inMadrid explored the relationship and reciprocal influence between Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle Chanel with a four-part exhibition (October 11, 2022 – January 15, 2023) spanning their works between 1915 and 1925.[55][56][57][58][59]

TheMetropolitan Museum of Art, home to the annualMet Gala in thefinancial andfashion capital ofNew York City, first honoured the house with a (May 5-August 7) 2005 exhibit chronicling the work of Coco Chanel's designs dating back to the 1920s. The museum'sCostume Institute will unveil a posthumous retrospective, paying homage to former Creative Director,Karl Lagerfeld (May 5-July 16).[60][61][62][63]

Philanthropy, sustainability, arts and culture

[edit]

Fondation Chanel is the philanthropic arm of the house. Founded in 2011, some of the organization's key initiatives include promoting greater healthcare advocacy; addressing the disparities in gender-based violence; and "accelerating economic agency and empowerment". Fondation Chanel has partnered with organizations in Africa, Asia, Europe, Latin America, the United Kingdom, and the United States.[64][65][66]

Chanel announced (June 2021) an anchor investment in the Landscape Resilience Fund, contributing $25 million to farmers grappling with the impacts of climate change. Setting a new series of science-based targets, the company also launched the No.1 de Chanel beauty and fragrance line in 2022, with 97% naturally derived ingredients and eco-conscious packaging designed. The house also announced goals in accordance with theParis Climate Agreement to reduce its carbon footprint by 50% by 2030 and reduce its emissions from value chain by 40% by 2030. As part of the Chanel Mission 1.5 Climate Action Plan, the brand has pledged to transition to 100% renewable electricity by 2025. The company is also sourcing eco-responsible tweeds; shifting to maritime transport with a goal of 80% shipments by sea by 2024; and supporting land and livelihood projects throughout communities in Africa, Southeast Asia, and Latin America.[67][68][69][70][71][72][73] In January 2024, Chanel launched an initiative with the consortium of 15 cosmetics-manufacturers, called the Traceability Alliance for Sustainable Cosmetics to catalyze traceability in the cosmetics sector.[74][75]

Arts and culture

[edit]

The Chanel Culture Fund is a global program of initiatives and partnerships. Since its inception, the House has partnered with theNational Portrait Gallery (London),The Centre Pompidou (Paris), and thePower Station (Shanghai). The Fund awards an annual prize (Chanel Next Prize) of €100,000 to ten artists in the fields of performing and visual arts.[76][77][78][79][80][81][82]

Yana Peel, global head of arts and culture said of the Fund in an interview with Harper's Bazaar, "At a time when we are navigating our way through complex new environments around the world, we know that artists generate transformative ideas that help us envision the way forward. Chanel has always championed the vitality and advancement of the arts, and we now expand that tradition through the Fund with a focus on supporting cultural innovators and path-breakers who are mapping out what's next."[83]

Corporate identity

[edit]

The Chanel logotype comprises two interlocked, opposed letters C, one faced left and the other faced right. The logotype was given to Chanel by the Château de Crémat, Nice, and was not registered as a trademark until the first Chanel shops were established.[84][85]The logo is commonly known to stand for "Coco Chanel" and has become one of the most recognizable logos in the world. It has also become the symbol of prestige, luxury, and class.[86]

In 2022, Chanel donated €2 million towardsCare andUNHCR. The money will go to Ukraine to help it during theRussian invasion.[87]

Worldwide, Chanel S.A. operates around 310 Chanel boutiques; 94 in Asia, 70 in Europe, 10 in the Middle East, 128 in North America, 1 in Central America, 2 in South America, and 6 in Oceania. The shops are located in wealthy communities, usually in department stores likeHarrods andSelfridges,Bergdorf Goodman,Neiman Marcus andSaks Fifth Avenue, high streets, shopping districts, and inside airports.[9] In 2015, the company paid a record $152 million for 400 NorthRodeo Drive inBeverly Hills. This is the most expensive amount paid for retail space in Los Angeles.[88] In October 2020, the company bought its flagshipBond Street boutique in London for £310 million.[89][90]

Trademarks

[edit]

One timeline measurement for Chanel presence in the United States is via trademarks registered with theUnited States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). On Tuesday, 18 November 1924, Chanel, Inc. filed trademark applications for the typeset markChanel and for the interlockingCC design plus word mark. At that time, the trademarks were registered only for the perfume, toiletry, and cosmetic products in the primary class of common metals and their alloys. Chanel provided the description offace powder, perfume, Eau de Cologne, toilet water, lipstick, androuge, to the USPTO.[91]The Chanel and double-C trademarks were awarded on the same date of 24 February 1925 with respective Serial Numbers of 71205468 and 71205469. The first trademark application for the No. 5 perfume was on Thursday, 1 April 1926, described as perfume and toilet water. First use and commercial use was stated as 1 January 1921. Registration was granted on 20 July 1926 with Serial Number 71229497.

Combatting counterfeits

[edit]

Along with other makers, Chanel is a target of counterfeiters.[92] An authentic classic Chanel handbag retails from around US$4,150, while a counterfeit usually costs around US$200. Beginning in the 1990s, all authentic Chanel handbags were numbered.

In 2018, Chanel filed a lawsuit in the Federal District Court of the Southern District of New York, alleging The RealReal was hosting counterfeit (fake) Chanel products on their website and implying to customers that an affiliation existed between the two.[93][94]

Due to the high volume of Chanel counterfeits, the legal department at Chanel has set up a website to educate consumers about "Spotting Fake vs Authentic CHANEL Products".[95] Many fashion bloggers[96][97] are spreading awareness about identifying fake luxury items such as Chanel's products.[98]

  • Two interlocking Cs for "Coco Chanel", introduced ca. 1990
    Two interlocking Cs for "Coco Chanel", introduced ca. 1990
  • Perfume label trademark "No. 5 de Chanel" and font, introduced in 1926
    Perfume label trademark "No. 5 de Chanel" and font, introduced in 1926
  • Logo name and font, introduced in 1924
    Logo name and font, introduced in 1924
  • Interlocking Cs used on Chanel products
    Interlocking Cs used on Chanel products

Products

[edit]
Le nez de Chanel: the perfumer Ernest Beaux (1881–1961) created No. 5 de Chanel in 1921.
Chanel presented Perfume No. 5 to the market in 1922; created by Ernest Beaux in 1921

Handbag

[edit]

Introduced in 1955, the Chanel 2.55 handbag revolutionized women's fashion by incorporating a shoulder strap,[99] allowing for hands-free use. Over the years, Chanel has consistently updated its handbag designs while maintaining their classic appeal. For instance, in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld introduced the 11.12 handbag,[100] featuring the now-iconic double-C logo.[101]

Chanel's pricing strategy has involved regular increases to reinforce the brand's exclusivity. The Classic Flap bag, for example, has seen its price rise from $220 at its inception to over $10,000 in recent years.[102] These adjustments are influenced by factors such as rising material and labor costs, as well as strategic pricing decisions to maintain the brand's luxury positioning.[103]

Fragrance

[edit]

In 1924,Pierre Wertheimer founded Parfums Chanel, to produce and sell perfumes and cosmetics; theparfumerie proved to be the most profitable business division of the Chanel S.A. corporation.[9][104] Since its establishment,parfumerie Chanel has employed fourperfumers:

Fragrance and Skincare counter atMyer inSydney

Perfumes

[edit]
  • Allure EDT
  • Allure Eau Sensuelle EDP
  • Allure Eau Sensuelle EDT
  • Chance Eau Vive
  • Chance Eau Fraiche
  • Chance Eau Tendre
  • Coco
  • Coco Mademoiselle
  • Coco Noir
  • Cristalle
  • Cristalle Eau Verte
  • No. 5
  • No. 19
  • No. 19 Poudre
  • No 22
  • Gardénia
  • Bois des Iles
  • Cuir de Russie
  • Eau de Cologne
  • 31 Rue Cambon
  • No. 18
  • Coromandel
  • Bel Respiro
  • 28 La Pausa (named forLa Pausa, Chanel's villa on the French Riviera)[105]
  • Sycomore
  • Beige
  • Jersey
  • 1932
  • Misia
  • Boy
  • 1957
  • Le Lion de Chanel

Colognes

[edit]
  • Allure pour Homme
  • Allure pour Homme Sport
  • Allure pour Homme Eau Extreme
  • Allure pour Homme Cologne Sport
  • Allure Homme Edition Blanche
  • Antaeus
  • Égoïste
  • Platinum Égoïste
  • Bleu De Chanel Eau de Toilette
  • Bleu De Chanel Eau de Parfum
  • Bleu De Chanel L'Exclusif
  • Bleu De Chanel Parfum
  • Pour Monsieur

Makeup and skincare

[edit]

Cosmetics are the most accessible Chanel product, with counters in department stores across the world, includingHarrods,Galeries Lafayette,Bergdorf Goodman,Hudson's Bay andDavid Jones, Wojooh,Selfridges,[106]John Lewis & Partners andBoots as well as its own beauty boutiques.

Products lines

[edit]
  • Mascara
  • LA MOUSSE
  • Hydra Beauty
  • Le Blanc
  • Le Lift
  • Sublimage
  • Blue Serum
  • La Solution 10 de Chanel
  • Vamp Nail Polish
  • N°1 line (skincare and makeup products based on holistic beauty and eco-friendly principles)[107]

Fine jewellery

[edit]

Chanel 'High Jewellery' was founded in November 1932. Chanel debuted 'Bijoux de Diamants' at her Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris mansion.[108] It was also the first high-end jewelry collection created by a fashion designer.[109] The 'Bijoux de Diamants' was inspired by celestial forms such as stars, comets, and the moon. Gabrielle Chanel designed an estimated 50 pieces with white and yellow diamonds set in platinum and yellow gold.[110] The collection, a collaboration with the London Diamond Corporation, aimed to revitalize the diamond trade during the Great Depression.[111] In 2012, the company created a special collection to celebrate Diamants' 80th anniversary. Current collections include High Jewelry, Camelia, Comete, Coco Crush, Baroque, 1932, Ultra, Bridal and Jewelry Watches.[112]

Watches

[edit]
Further information:Chanel J12

The Chanelwristwatch division was established in 1987.[113] In 1995, division presented a second design, theMatelassé.[113] Although thePremière andMatelassé wristwatches were successful products, the presentation, in 2000, of theChanel J12 line of unisex style wristwatches, made of ceramic materials, established Chanel wristwatches as a Chanel marque.[113] The J12 line of wristwatches features models in four dial-face sizes: 33mm, 38mm, 41mm, and 42mm.[113][114] In 2008, Chanel S.A. andAudemars Piguet developed theceramic Chanel AP-3125 clockwork, exclusive to the House of Chanel.[115]

As of 2024, Chanel holds 25% stake inMB&F, 20% inF. P. Journe and undisclosed stake inRomain Gauthier.[116]

Wine

[edit]

Chanel owns the wineriesChâteau Rauzan-Ségla,Château Canon,St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery, and Domaine de i'lle located on the island of Porquerolles in the Cotes de Provence AOP.

Swimwear

[edit]

In 2018, Chanel acquired clothing brand Orlebar Brown,[117] specializing in tailored men's swim shorts.

Gallery

[edit]
  • Chanel handbag in quilted-leather with adjustable double-chains to wear on the arm or shoulder.
    Chanel handbag in quilted-leather with adjustable double-chains to wear on the arm or shoulder.
  • A 1965 Chanel suit showing the chain that is a distinctive technique for constructing a Chanel suit. It gives even light-weight materials a good drape and stabilize the suit as it weighs down the hem.[118][119]
    A 1965 Chanel suit showing thechain that is a distinctive technique for constructing a Chanel suit. It gives even light-weight materials a gooddrape and stabilize the suit as it weighs down the hem.[118][119]
  • Belgian King Baudouin and Queen Fabiola visit the Nixon White House with a quilted leather Chanel handbag in 1969.
    BelgianKing Baudouin andQueen Fabiola visit theNixon White House with a quilted leather Chanel handbag in 1969.
  • Chanel original Robot clutch
    Chanel original Robot clutch
Fashion collections and runway shows
DesignerSeasonCityLocalePresentation dateLineThemeFor sale
Karl LagerfeldFall–Winter 2010ParisGrand Palais6 July 2010Haute coutureA lionOn order
Spring–Summer 20115 October 2010Ready-to-wearAn orchestraMarch 2011
Paris–Byzance31 rue Cambon7 December 2010A Byzantine palaceMay 2011
Spring–Summer 2011Pavillon Cambon–Capucines25 January 2011Haute coutureBallet[120][121]On order
Fall–Winter 2011Grand Palais8 March 2011Ready-to-wearA frozen gardenSeptember 2011
Cruise 2011AntibesHôtel du Cap5 May 2011Cruise collectionOutdoorsNovember 2011
Fall–Winter 2011ParisGrand Palais5 July 2011Haute coutureNight-time Place Vendôme[122][123]On order
Spring–summer 20124 October 2011Ready-to-wearUnder the Sea and FlorenceMarch 2012
Paris–Bombay6 December 2011An Indian palace[124]May 2012
Spring–Summer 201224 January 2012Haute coutureAn aeroplane in flight[125]On order
Fall–Winter 2012–20136 March 2012Ready-to-wearQuartz WorldSeptember 2012
Cruise 2013VersaillesPalace of Versailles13 May 2012Cruise collectionGardens of VersaillesNovember 2012
Fall–Winter 2012ParisGrand Palais3 July 2012Haute coutureNew VintageOn order
Spring–Summer 20132 October 2012Ready-to-wearNew energyMarch 2013
Paris-EdinburghLinlithgowLinlithgow Palace4 December 2012Ready-to-wearBarbarian romanceMay 2013
Spring–Summer 2013ParisGrand Palais22 January 2013Haute coutureThe ForestOn order
Fall–Winter 2013–20145 March 2013Ready-to-wearAround the worldSeptember 2013
Cruise 2014SingaporeDempsey Hill Army Barracks9 May 2013Cruise collectionVacationNovember 2013
Fall–Winter 2013–2014ParisGrand Palais2 July 2013Haute coutureThe future[126]On order
Spring–Summer 20141 October 2013Ready-to-wearArtMarch 2014
Métiers d'art Paris-Dallas 2013–2014DallasFair Park11 December 2013Ready-to-wearTexas/ AmericanaMay 2014
Spring–Summer 2014ParisGrand Palais21 January 2014Haute coutureSport[127]On order
Fall–Winter 2014–20154 March 2014Ready-to-wearThe Chanel Shopping CenterSeptember 2014
Cruise 2015DubaiThe World14 May 2014Cruise collectionArabiaNovember 2014
Fall–Winter 2014–2015ParisGrand Palais8 July 2014Haute couturePied-à-terreOn order
Spring–Summer 201530 September 2014Ready-to-wearChanel BoulevardMarch 2015
Spring–Summer 201527 January 2015Haute couturePaper FlowersOn order
Fall–Winter 2015–201610 March 2015Ready-to-wearBrasserieSeptember 2015
Cruise 2016SeoulDongdaemun Design Plaza4 May 2015Cruise collectionK-popNovember 2015
Fall–Winter 2015–2016ParisGrand Palais7 July 2015Haute coutureCasinoOn order
Spring–Summer 20166 October 2015Ready-to-wearAirportMarch 2016
Spring–Summer 201626 January 2016Haute coutureZen gardenOn order
Fall–Winter 2016–20178 March 2016Ready-to-wearNo setSeptember 2016
Cruise 2017HavanaPaseo del Prado, Havana4 May 2016Cruise collectionOld HavanaNovember 2016
Fall–Winter 2016–2017ParisGrand Palais5 July 2016Haute coutureAtelierOn order
Spring–Summer 20174 October 2016Ready-to-wearMainframeMarch 2017
Spring–Summer 201724 January 2017Haute coutureMirrorsOn order
Fall–Winter 2017–20187 March 2017Ready-to-wearSpace ExplorationSeptember 2017
Métiers d'art

Paris–Hamburg 2017–2018

HamburgElbphilharmonie6 December 2017Ready-to-wearSailors Uniforms[128][129]May 2018
Spring–Summer 2018ParisGrand Palais23 January 2018Haute coutureFrench Garden[130]On order
Cruise 2018Paris3 May 2018Cruise collectionCruise[131]On order
Fall–Winter 2018–2019Paris3 July 2018Haute coutureAtelierOn order
Spring–Summer 20193 October 2018Ready-to-wearChanel by the SeaOn order
Métiers d'art

Paris–New York 2018–2019

New YorkMetropolitan Museum of Art6 December 2019Ready-to-wearAncient Egypt[132]June 2019
Spring–Summer 2019ParisGrand Palais23 January 2019Haute coutureMirrorsOn order
Fall–Winter 2019–20206 March 2019Ready-to-wearChanel in the Snow / Alpine VillageSeptember 2019
Virginie ViardCruise 2019–2020Paris3 May 2019Cruise collectionTrain StationNovember 2019
Fall–Winter 2019–20202 July 2019Haute coutureCoco's LibraryOn order

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
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