| Canyonlands National Park | |
|---|---|
 Looking over theGreen River from Island in the Sky | |
 Location in United States##Location in Utah | |
| Location | San Juan,Wayne,Garfield, andGrand counties,Utah, United States |
| Nearest city | Moab, Utah |
| Coordinates | 38°10′01″N109°45′35″W / 38.16691°N 109.75966°W /38.16691; -109.75966 |
| Area | 337,598 acres (1,366.21 km2)[1] |
| Established | September 12, 1964; 61 years ago (1964-09-12)[2] |
| Visitors | 818,492 (in 2024)[3] |
| Governing body | National Park Service |
| Website | nps |
Canyonlands National Park is anational park of the United States located in southeasternUtah near the town ofMoab. The park preserves a colorful landscape eroded into numerouscanyons,mesas, andbuttes by theColorado River, theGreen River, and their respective tributaries. Legislation creating the park was signed into law by PresidentLyndon B. Johnson on September 12, 1964.[4]
The park is divided into four districts: the Island in the Sky, the Needles, the Maze, and the combined rivers—the Green and Colorado—which carved two large canyons into theColorado Plateau. While these areas share a primitive desert atmosphere, each retains its own character.[5] AuthorEdward Abbey, a frequent visitor, described the Canyonlands as "the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth—there is nothing else like it anywhere."[6]
In the early 1950s, Bates Wilson, then superintendent ofArches National Monument, began exploring the area to the south and west ofMoab, Utah. After seeing what is now known as the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park, Wilson began advocating for the establishment of a new national park that would include the Needles. Additional explorations by Wilson and others expanded the areas proposed for inclusion into the new national park to include the confluence of Green and Colorado rivers, the Maze District, and Horseshoe Canyon.[7]
In 1961,Secretary of the InteriorStewart Udall was scheduled to address a conference atGrand Canyon National Park. On his flight to the conference, he flew over the Confluence (where the Colorado and Green rivers meet). The view apparently sparked Udall's interest in Wilson's proposal for a new national park in that area and Udall began promoting the establishment of Canyonlands National Park.
Utah SenatorFrank Moss first introduced legislation in Congress to create Canyonlands National Park. His legislation attempted to satisfy both nature preservationists' and commercial developers' interests. Over the next four years, his proposal was struck down, debated, revised, and reintroduced to Congress many times before being passed and signed into law.[8]
In September 1964, after several years of debate, PresidentLyndon B. Johnson signedPub. L. 88–590, which established Canyonlands National Park as a new national park. Bates Wilson became the first superintendent of the new park and is often referred to as the "Father of Canyonlands".[9]
Canyonlands is a popular recreational destination. Since 2007, more than 400,000 people have visited the park each year, with a record of 911,594 visitors in 2021.[3] The geography of the park is well suited to a number of different recreational uses.Hikers,mountain bikers,backpackers, andfour-wheelers all enjoy traveling the rugged, remote trails within the Park. TheWhite Rim Road traverses theWhite Rim Sandstone level of the park between the rivers and the Island in the Sky. Since 2015, day-use permits must be obtained before travelling on the White Rim Road due to the increasing popularity of driving and bicycling along it. The park service's intent is to provide a better wilderness experience for all visitors while minimizing impacts on the natural surroundings.[10][11] Canyonlands National Park upholds a strict no-hunting policy.
As of 2016[update], the Island in the Sky district, with its proximity to theMoab, Utah area, attracts 76.7 percent of total park visitors. The Needles district is the second most visited, drawing 20.7 percent of visitors. The remote Maze district accounts for only about 1.5 percent of visitors, while river rafters and other river users account for the remaining 1.1 percent of total park visitation.[12]
Rafters andkayakers float the calm stretches of theGreen River andColorado River above theConfluence. Below the Confluence,Cataract Canyon contains powerful whitewater rapids, similar to those found in theGrand Canyon. However, since there is no large impoundment on the Colorado River above Canyonlands National Park, river flow through the Confluence is determined by snowmelt, not management. As a result, and in combination with Cataract Canyon's uniquegraben geology, this stretch of river offers the largest whitewater in North America in heavy snow years.
Political compromise at the time of the park's creation limited the protected area to an arbitrary portion of the Canyonlands basin. Conservationists hope to complete the park by bringing the boundaries up to the high sandstone rims that form the natural border of the Canyonlands landscape.[13]
On March 27, 2020, Canyonlands National Park was closed to help prevent the spread ofCOVID-19.[14]
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TheColorado River andGreen River combine within the park, dividing it into three districts called the Island in the Sky, the Needles, and the Maze. The Colorado River flows throughCataract Canyon below its confluence with the Green River.
The Island in the Sky district is a broad and levelmesa in the northern section of the park, between the Colorado and Green rivers. The district has many viewpoints overlooking the White Rim, a sandstone bench 1,200 feet (370 m) below the Island, and the rivers, which are another 1,000 feet (300 m) below the White Rim.
The Needles district is located south of the Island in the Sky, on the east side of the Colorado River. The district is named for the red and white bandedrock pinnacles which are a major feature of the area. Various other naturally sculpted rock formations are also within this district, includinggrabens, potholes, andarches. UnlikeArches National Park, where many arches are accessible by short to moderate hikes, most of the arches in the Needles district lie in backcountry canyons, requiring long hikes orfour-wheel drive trips to reach them.
TheAncestral Puebloans inhabited this area and some of their stone and mud dwellings are well-preserved, although the items and tools they used were mostly removed by looters.[15] The Ancestral Puebloans also createdrock art in the form ofpetroglyphs, most notably onNewspaper Rock along the Needles access road.
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The Maze district is located west of the Colorado and Green rivers. The Maze is the least accessible section of the park, and one of the most remote and inaccessible areas of the United States.[16][17]
A geographically detached section of the park located north of the Maze district,Horseshoe Canyon contains panels of rock art made by hunter-gatherers from the Late Archaic Period (2000–1000 BC) pre-dating the Ancestral Puebloans.[18][19][20] Originally called Barrier Canyon, Horseshoe's artifacts, dwellings, pictographs, and murals are some of the oldest in America.[19] The images depicting horses date from after 1540 AD, when the Spanish reintroduced horses to America.[19]
Since the 1950s, scientists have been studying an area of 200 acres (81 ha) completely surrounded by cliffs. The cliffs have prevented cattle from ever grazing on the area's 62 acres (25 ha) of grassland. According to the scientists, the site may contain the largest undisturbed grassland in theFour Corners region. Studies have continued biannually since the mid-1990s. The area has been closed to the public since 1993 to maintain the nearly pristine environment.[21]
Mammals that roam this park includeblack bears,coyotes,skunks,bats,elk,foxes,bobcats,badgers,ring-tailed cats,pronghorns,desert bighorn sheep, andcougars.[22]Desert cottontails,kangaroo rats andmule deer are commonly seen by visitors.[23]
At least 273 species of birds inhabit the park.[24] A variety of hawks and eagles are found, including theCooper's hawk, thenorthern goshawk, thesharp-shinned hawk, thered-tailed hawk, thegolden andbald eagles, therough-legged hawk, theSwainson's hawk, and thenorthern harrier.[25] Several species of owls are found, including thegreat horned owl, thenorthern saw-whet owl, thewestern screech owl, and theMexican spotted owl.[25] Grebes, woodpeckers,ravens, herons, flycatchers, crows, bluebirds, wrens, warblers, blackbirds, orioles, goldfinches, swallows, sparrows, ducks, quail, grouse, pheasants, hummingbirds, falcons, gulls, and ospreys are some of the other birds that can be found.[25]
Several reptiles can be found, including eleven species oflizards and eight species of snake (including themidget faded rattlesnake).[26] Thecommon kingsnake and prairie rattlesnake have been reported in the park, but not confirmed by the National Park Service.[26]
The park is home to six confirmed amphibian species, including thered-spotted toad,[27]Woodhouse's toad,[28]American bullfrog,[29]northern leopard frog,[30]Great Basin spadefoot toad,[31] andtiger salamander.[32] Thecanyon tree frog was reported to be in the park in 2000, but was not confirmed during a study in 2004.[33]
Canyonlands National Park contains a wide variety of plant life, including 11cactus species,[34] 20moss species,[35]liverworts,[35]grasses[36] andwildflowers.[37] Varieties of trees includenetleaf hackberry,Russian olive,Utah juniper,pinyon pine,tamarisk, andFremont's cottonwood.[38] Shrubs includeMormon tea,blackbrush,four-wing saltbush,cliffrose,[38]littleleaf mountain mahogany, andsnakeweed[39]
Cryptobiotic soil is the foundation of life in Canyonlands, providing nitrogen fixation and moisture for plant seeds. One footprint can destroy decades of growth.[40]
According to theKöppen climate classification system, Canyonlands National Park has acold semi-arid climate ("BSk").[41] Theplant hardiness zones at the Island in the Sky and Needles District Visitor Centers are 7a with an average annual extreme minimum air temperature of 4.0 °F (-15.6 °C) and 2.9 °F (-16.2 °C), respectively.[42]
TheNational Weather Service has maintained two cooperative weather stations in the park since June 1965. Official data documents the desert climate with less than 10 inches (250 millimetres) of annual rainfall, as well as hot, mostly dry summers and cold, occasionally wet winters. Snowfall is generally light during the winter.[43]
The station in The Neck region reports an average January temperature of 29.6 °F and an average July temperature of 79.3 °F.[44] Average July temperatures range from a high of 90.8 °F (32.7 °C) to a low of 67.9 °F (19.9 °C). There are an average of 45.7 days with highs of 90 °F (32 °C) or higher and an average of 117.3 days with lows of 32 °F (0 °C) or lower. The highest recorded temperature was 105 °F (41 °C) on July 15, 2005, and the lowest recorded temperature was −13 °F (−25 °C) on February 6, 1989. Average annual precipitation is 9.33 inches (237 mm). There are an average of 59 days with measurable precipitation. The wettest year was 1984, with 13.66 in (347 mm), and the driest year was 1989, with 4.63 in (118 mm). The most precipitation in one month was 5.19 in (132 mm) in October 2006. The most precipitation in 24 hours was 1.76 in (45 mm) on April 9, 1978. Average annual snowfall is 22.8 in (58 cm). The most snowfall in one year was 47.4 in (120 cm) in 1975, and the most snowfall in one month was 27.0 in (69 cm) in January 1978.[45]
The station in The Needles region reports an average January temperature of 29.7 °F and an average July temperature of 79.1 °F.[44] Average July temperatures range from a high of 95.4 °F (35.2 °C) to a low of 62.4 °F (16.9 °C). There are an average of 75.4 days with highs of 90 °F (32 °C) or higher and an average of 143.6 days with lows of 32 °F (0 °C) or lower. The highest recorded temperature was 107 °F (42 °C) on July 13, 1971, and the lowest recorded temperature was −16 °F (−27 °C) on January 16, 1971. Average annual precipitation is 8.49 in (216 mm). There are an average of 56 days with measurable precipitation. The wettest year was 1969, with 11.19 in (284 mm), and the driest year was 1989, with 4.25 in (108 mm). The most precipitation in one month was 4.43 in (113 mm) in October 1972. The most precipitation in 24 hours was 1.56 in (40 mm) on September 17, 1999. Average annual snowfall is 14.4 in (37 cm). The most snowfall in one year was 39.3 in (100 cm) in 1975, and the most snowfall in one month was 24.0 in (61 cm) in March 1985.[46]
| Climate data for Canyonlands – The Neck, Utah, 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1965–present | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °F (°C) | 58 (14) | 67 (19) | 78 (26) | 84 (29) | 97 (36) | 102 (39) | 105 (41) | 101 (38) | 98 (37) | 89 (32) | 72 (22) | 62 (17) | 105 (41) |
| Mean maximum °F (°C) | 48.0 (8.9) | 55.9 (13.3) | 68.5 (20.3) | 77.2 (25.1) | 86.5 (30.3) | 95.4 (35.2) | 98.8 (37.1) | 95.6 (35.3) | 89.9 (32.2) | 79.7 (26.5) | 63.1 (17.3) | 50.8 (10.4) | 99.4 (37.4) |
| Mean daily maximum °F (°C) | 36.8 (2.7) | 43.2 (6.2) | 54.2 (12.3) | 62.0 (16.7) | 72.4 (22.4) | 84.6 (29.2) | 90.8 (32.7) | 87.8 (31.0) | 79.0 (26.1) | 64.6 (18.1) | 49.1 (9.5) | 36.9 (2.7) | 63.5 (17.5) |
| Daily mean °F (°C) | 29.6 (−1.3) | 35.2 (1.8) | 44.5 (6.9) | 51.1 (10.6) | 61.3 (16.3) | 73.1 (22.8) | 79.3 (26.3) | 76.8 (24.9) | 68.0 (20.0) | 54.3 (12.4) | 40.8 (4.9) | 29.7 (−1.3) | 53.6 (12.0) |
| Mean daily minimum °F (°C) | 22.3 (−5.4) | 27.3 (−2.6) | 34.9 (1.6) | 40.1 (4.5) | 50.2 (10.1) | 61.7 (16.5) | 67.9 (19.9) | 65.7 (18.7) | 57.0 (13.9) | 43.9 (6.6) | 32.6 (0.3) | 22.6 (−5.2) | 43.8 (6.6) |
| Mean minimum °F (°C) | 10.2 (−12.1) | 14.2 (−9.9) | 20.7 (−6.3) | 25.8 (−3.4) | 34.0 (1.1) | 45.5 (7.5) | 56.5 (13.6) | 55.4 (13.0) | 42.3 (5.7) | 27.0 (−2.8) | 16.5 (−8.6) | 10.3 (−12.1) | 6.6 (−14.1) |
| Record low °F (°C) | −7 (−22) | −13 (−25) | 0 (−18) | 14 (−10) | 22 (−6) | 26 (−3) | 41 (5) | 41 (5) | 25 (−4) | 9 (−13) | 6 (−14) | −10 (−23) | −13 (−25) |
| Averageprecipitation inches (mm) | 0.55 (14) | 0.58 (15) | 0.75 (19) | 0.68 (17) | 0.87 (22) | 0.36 (9.1) | 0.91 (23) | 1.16 (29) | 1.00 (25) | 1.22 (31) | 0.55 (14) | 0.70 (18) | 9.33 (236.1) |
| Average snowfall inches (cm) | 6.1 (15) | 3.5 (8.9) | 3.0 (7.6) | 0.3 (0.76) | 0.1 (0.25) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.1 (0.25) | 3.2 (8.1) | 6.5 (17) | 22.8 (57.86) |
| Average extreme snow depth inches (cm) | 4.9 (12) | 4.0 (10) | 2.1 (5.3) | 0.6 (1.5) | 0.1 (0.25) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.4 (1.0) | 1.9 (4.8) | 4.6 (12) | 6.5 (17) |
| Average precipitation days(≥ 0.01 in) | 4.4 | 4.5 | 4.6 | 5.2 | 5.4 | 2.4 | 5.9 | 6.4 | 6.2 | 5.7 | 4.3 | 4.4 | 59.4 |
| Average snowy days(≥ 0.1 in) | 3.8 | 2.5 | 1.7 | 0.5 | 0.1 | 0.0 | 0.0 | 0.0 | 0.0 | 0.3 | 1.7 | 3.6 | 14.2 |
| Source: NOAA[47][48] | |||||||||||||
| Climate data for Hans Flat Ranger Station, Utah, 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1980–present | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °F (°C) | 55 (13) | 66 (19) | 75 (24) | 82 (28) | 92 (33) | 98 (37) | 101 (38) | 98 (37) | 95 (35) | 88 (31) | 70 (21) | 62 (17) | 101 (38) |
| Mean maximum °F (°C) | 47.1 (8.4) | 53.8 (12.1) | 65.3 (18.5) | 73.8 (23.2) | 82.9 (28.3) | 92.1 (33.4) | 95.8 (35.4) | 93.2 (34.0) | 87.5 (30.8) | 76.7 (24.8) | 61.2 (16.2) | 49.3 (9.6) | 96.3 (35.7) |
| Mean daily maximum °F (°C) | 35.0 (1.7) | 40.3 (4.6) | 50.1 (10.1) | 57.3 (14.1) | 67.8 (19.9) | 80.2 (26.8) | 86.6 (30.3) | 83.7 (28.7) | 74.9 (23.8) | 60.9 (16.1) | 46.5 (8.1) | 35.1 (1.7) | 59.9 (15.5) |
| Daily mean °F (°C) | 28.2 (−2.1) | 32.8 (0.4) | 41.3 (5.2) | 47.3 (8.5) | 57.7 (14.3) | 69.5 (20.8) | 75.6 (24.2) | 73.1 (22.8) | 65.0 (18.3) | 51.6 (10.9) | 38.7 (3.7) | 28.2 (−2.1) | 50.8 (10.4) |
| Mean daily minimum °F (°C) | 21.4 (−5.9) | 25.2 (−3.8) | 32.4 (0.2) | 37.2 (2.9) | 47.5 (8.6) | 58.8 (14.9) | 64.5 (18.1) | 62.6 (17.0) | 55.0 (12.8) | 42.3 (5.7) | 30.8 (−0.7) | 21.3 (−5.9) | 41.6 (5.3) |
| Mean minimum °F (°C) | 9.1 (−12.7) | 12.5 (−10.8) | 19.1 (−7.2) | 23.8 (−4.6) | 32.1 (0.1) | 42.9 (6.1) | 54.9 (12.7) | 54.0 (12.2) | 40.5 (4.7) | 25.9 (−3.4) | 14.8 (−9.6) | 9.0 (−12.8) | 5.6 (−14.7) |
| Record low °F (°C) | −5 (−21) | −12 (−24) | 9 (−13) | 16 (−9) | 20 (−7) | 31 (−1) | 40 (4) | 41 (5) | 31 (−1) | 6 (−14) | 3 (−16) | −10 (−23) | −12 (−24) |
| Averageprecipitation inches (mm) | 0.70 (18) | 0.67 (17) | 0.84 (21) | 0.67 (17) | 0.72 (18) | 0.37 (9.4) | 0.87 (22) | 1.09 (28) | 0.96 (24) | 1.16 (29) | 0.76 (19) | 0.77 (20) | 9.58 (242.4) |
| Average snowfall inches (cm) | 9.2 (23) | 7.4 (19) | 5.2 (13) | 2.9 (7.4) | 0.3 (0.76) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.7 (1.8) | 4.5 (11) | 8.3 (21) | 38.5 (96.96) |
| Average extreme snow depth inches (cm) | 7.6 (19) | 6.6 (17) | 3.7 (9.4) | 1.5 (3.8) | 0.3 (0.76) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.0 (0.0) | 0.6 (1.5) | 3.4 (8.6) | 5.7 (14) | 9.6 (24) |
| Average precipitation days(≥ 0.01 in) | 5.7 | 6.2 | 5.8 | 4.9 | 5.3 | 2.7 | 6.2 | 7.4 | 5.6 | 5.8 | 4.5 | 5.6 | 65.7 |
| Average snowy days(≥ 0.1 in) | 4.8 | 4.9 | 2.8 | 1.9 | 0.2 | 0.0 | 0.0 | 0.0 | 0.0 | 0.4 | 2.7 | 4.6 | 22.3 |
| Source 1: NOAA[49] | |||||||||||||
| Source 2: National Weather Service[50] | |||||||||||||
National parks in the Western United States are more affected byclimate change than the country as a whole,[51][52] and the National Park Service has begun research into how exactly this will affect the ecosystem of Canyonlands National Park and the surrounding areas and ways to protect the park for the future.[53] The mean annual temperature of Canyonlands National Park increased by 2.6 °F (1.4 °C) from 1916 to 2018.[54] It is predicted that if current warming trends continue, the average highs in the park during the summer will be over 100 °F (40 °C) by 2100.[55] In addition to warming, the region has begun to see more severe and frequent droughts[52][53] which causes native grass cover to decrease[56] and a lower flow of the Colorado River.[57] The flows of the Upper Colorado Basin have decreased by 300,000 acre⋅ft (370,000,000 m3) per year, which has led to a decreased amount of sediment carried by the river and rockier rapids which are more frequently impassable to rafters.[57] The area has also begun to see an earlier spring, which will lead to changes in the timing of leaves and flowers blooming and migrational patterns of wildlife that could lead to food shortages for the wildlife, as well as a longer fire season.[58]
The National Park Service is currently closely monitoring the impacts of climate change in Canyonlands National Park in order to create management strategies that will best help conserve the park's landscapes and ecosystems for the long term.[59] Although the National Park Service's original goal was to preserve landscapes as they were before European colonization, they have now switched to a more adaptive management strategy with the ultimate goal of conserving the biodiversity of the park.[60] The NPS is collaborating with other organizations including the US Geological Survey, local indigenous tribes, and nearby universities in order to create a management plan for the national park.[59][53] Right now, there is a focus on research into which native plants will be most resistant to climate change so that the park can decide on what to prioritize in conservation efforts.[59] The Canyonlands Natural History Association has been giving money to the US Geological Survey to fund this and other climate related research. They gave $30,000 in 2019 and $61,000 in 2020.[53]
A subsidingbasin and nearby upliftingmountain range (theUncompahgre) existed in the area inPennsylvanian time. Seawater trapped in the subsiding basin created thickevaporite deposits by Mid Pennsylvanian. This, along with eroded material from the nearby mountain range, became theParadox Formation, itself a part of theHermosa Group. Paradox salt beds started to flow later in the Pennsylvanian and probably continued to move until the end of theJurassic.[61] Some scientists believeUpheaval Dome was created from Paradox salt bed movement, creating asalt dome, but more modern studies show that themeteorite theory is more likely to be correct.
A warm shallow sea again flooded the region near the end of the Pennsylvanian.Fossil-richlimestones,sandstones, andshales of the gray-coloredHonaker Trail Formation resulted. A period oferosion then ensued, creating a break in the geologic record called anunconformity. Early in thePermian an advancing sea laid down theHalgaito Shale. Coastal lowlands later returned to the area, forming theElephant Canyon Formation.
Largealluvial fans filled the basin where it met theUncompahgre Mountains, creating theCutler red beds ofiron-rich arkose sandstone. Underwatersand bars andsand dunes on the coast inter-fingered with the red beds and later became the white-colored cliff-formingCedar Mesa Sandstone. Brightly coloredoxidized muds were then deposited, forming theOrgan Rock Shale. Coastal sand dunes and marine sand bars once again became dominant, creating theWhite Rim Sandstone.
A second unconformity was created after the Permian sea retreated. Flood plains on an expansive lowland covered the eroded surface and mud built up in tidal flats, creating theMoenkopi Formation. Erosion returned, forming a third unconformity. TheChinle Formation was then laid down on top of this eroded surface.
Increasingly dry climates dominated the Triassic. Therefore, sand in the form of sand dunes invaded and became theWingate Sandstone. For a time climatic conditions became wetter and streams cut channels through the sand dunes, forming theKayenta Formation. Arid conditions returned to the region with a vengeance; a largedesert spread over much of westernNorth America and later became theNavajo Sandstone. A fourth unconformity was created by a period of erosion.
Mud flats returned, forming theCarmel Formation, and theEntrada Sandstone was laid down next. A long period of erosion stripped away most of theSan Rafael Group in the area, along with any formations that may have been laid down in theCretaceous period.
TheLaramide orogeny started to uplift theRocky Mountains 70 million years ago and with it, the Canyonlands region. Erosion intensified and when the Colorado River Canyon reached the salt beds of theParadox Formation the overlying strata extended toward the river canyon, forming features such as TheGrabens.[62] Increased precipitation during theice ages of thePleistocene quickened the rate of canyon excavation along with other erosion. Similar types of erosion are ongoing, but occur at a slower rate.
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