Appleorchards and brewers are mentioned as far back as the 8th century byCharlemagne. The first known record of Norman distillation was made by squireGilles de Gouberville in 1553, and theguild forcider distillation was created about 50 years later in 1606. In the 17th century, the traditional cider farms expanded, but taxation and prohibition of cider brandies were enforced elsewhere thanBrittany,Maine, andNormandy. The area called "Calvados" was created after theFrench Revolution, buteau de vie de cidre was already calledcalvados in common usage.
In the 19th century, output increased with industrial distillation and the working class fashion forcafé-calva. When aphylloxera outbreak in the last quarter of the 19th century devastated the vineyards of France and Europe, Calvados experienced a golden age. DuringWorld War I, cider brandy was requisitioned to make explosives for the armament industry due to itsalcohol content.[6] Theappellation contrôlée regulations officially gave AOC CalvadosPays d'Auge[7] a protected name in 1942. After the war, many cider houses and distilleries were reconstructed, mainly in thePays d'Auge. Many of the traditional farmhouse structures were replaced by modern agriculture with high output. The calvados appellation system was revised in 1984 and 1996.Pommeau got its recognition in 1991; in 1997, an appellation forDomfront with 30% pears was created.
Cider brandy is also made in the UK, and appears in records going back to 1678. Somerset cider brandy gained European protected geographical indication (PGI) status in 2011.[8]
Calvados is distilled from cider made from specially grown and selected apples, from over 200 named varieties. It is not uncommon for a calvados producer to use over 100 specific varieties of apples[citation needed] which are either sweet (such as the 'Rouge Duret' variety), tart (such as the 'Rambault' variety), or bitter (such as the 'Mettais', 'Saint Martin', 'Frequin', and 'Binet Rouge' varieties), the latter being inedible.[9]
The fruit is harvested and pressed into a juice that is fermented into a drycider. It is thendistilled intoeau de vie. After two or three years ofaging in oak casks, it can be sold as calvados. The longer it is aged, the smoother the drink becomes. Usually, the maturation goes on for several years.
The appellation of AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) for calvados authorizes double distillation for all calvados, but it is required for theCalvados Pays d'Auge.[10]
Double distillation is carried out in a traditionalalembicpot still, called eitherl'alambic à repasse orcharentais
The usual arguments[by whom?] for and against the two processes are that the former process gives the spirit complexity and renders it suitable for longer aging, whilst the latter process gives the calvados a fresh and clean apple flavour but with less complexity. A growing belief[by whom?] indicates that a well-operated column still can produce as complex and "age-able" calvados as double distillation.[citation needed]
The procedures in production, such aspressing,fermentation, distillation, and ageing, are regulated.
Usually, single-column distillation is used.
The more restrictiveAOC calvadosPays d'Auge area is limited to the east end of the department of Calvados and a few adjoining districts.
Extensive quality control, the basic rules for AOC calvados together with several additional requirements, is practiced.
Aging for a minimum of two years in oak barrels is required.
Double distillation in an alembic pot-still is used.
It must be produced within the designated area in Pays d'Auge.
A minimum of six weeks of fermentation of the cider is required.
Flavour elements are controlled.
Small calvados producer aroundCambremer on the cider route
AOC calvadosDomfrontais reflects the long tradition of pear orchards in the area, resulting in a unique[clarification needed] fruity calvados. The regulation is similar to the AOC calvados and the column still is used.
A minimum of 30% pears from the designated areas is used.
A three-year minimum of aging in oak barrels is required.
The orchards must consist of at least 15% pear trees (25% from the 16th harvest).
Fermier calvados ("farm-made") – some quality-minded producers both inside and outside the Pays d'Auge make "fermier calvados", which indicates the calvados is entirely made on the farm in a traditional agricultural way according to high quality demands.[11]
The age on the bottle refers to the youngest constituent of the blend. A blend is often composed of old and young calvados. Producers can also use the terms below to refer to the age.
"VS",Trois étoiles ***, andTrois pommes must be at least two years old.
Vieux orRéserve must be at least three years old.
"V.O." "VO",Vieille Réserve, "V.S.O.P.", or "VSOP" must be at least four years old.
"Extra", "X.O." "XO", "Napoléon",Hors d'Age,Tres Vieille Reserve must be at least six years old, but are often sold much older.
High-quality calvados usually has parts which are much older than that mentioned. Calvados can be made from a single (generally, exceptionally good) year. When this happens, the label often carries that year.
Calvados is the basis of the tradition ofle trou Normand, or "the Norman hole". This is a small drink of calvados taken between courses in a very long meal, sometimes with apple or pearsorbet, supposedly to reawaken the appetite. Calvados can be served as anapéritif, blended in drinks, between meals, as adigestif, or with coffee. Well-made calvados should naturally be reminiscent of apples and pears, balanced with flavours of aging. The less-aged calvados distinguishes itself with its fresh apple and pear aromas. The longer the calvados is aged, the more the taste resembles that of any other aged brandy. As calvados ages, it may become golden or darker brown with orange elements and red mahogany. The nose and palate are delicate with concentration of aged apples and dried apricots balanced with butterscotch, nut, and chocolate aromas.[citation needed]