Aburrito (English:/bəˈriːtoʊ/,Spanish:[buˈrito]ⓘ)[1] orburro[2] in Mexico is, historically, a regional name, among others, for what is known as ataco, atortilla filled with food, in other parts of the country. The termburrito was regional, specifically fromGuanajuato,Guerrero,Michoacán,San Luis Potosí,Sonora andSinaloa, for what is known as ataco in Mexico City and surrounding areas, andcodzito inYucatán andQuintana Roo.[3][4][5] Due to the cultural influence of Mexico City, the termtaco became the default, and the meaning of terms likeburrito andcodzito were forgotten, leading many people to create new meanings and folk histories.
In modern times, it is considered by many as a different dish inMexican[6] andTex-Mex cuisine[7] that took form inCiudad Juárez, consisting of aflour tortilla wrapped into a sealed cylindrical shape around various ingredients.[8] In Central and Southern Mexico, burritos are still considered tacos, and are known astacos de harina ("wheat flour tacos").[5] The tortilla is sometimes lightly grilled or steamed to soften it, make it more pliable, and allow it to adhere to itself. Burritos are often eaten by hand, as their tight wrapping keeps the ingredients together. Burritos can also be served "wet"; i.e., covered in a savory and spicy sauce, when they would be eaten with a fork and knife.
Burritos are filled with savory ingredients, most often a meat such as beef, chicken, or pork, and often include other ingredients, such as rice, cooked beans (either whole orrefried), vegetables, such as lettuce and tomatoes, cheese, and condiments such assalsa,pico de gallo,guacamole, orcrema.
Burritos are often contrasted in present times with similar dishes such astacos, in which a small hand-sized tortilla is folded in half around the ingredients rather than wrapped and sealed, or withenchiladas, which usecorn masa tortillas and are covered in a savory sauce to be eaten with a fork and knife.
Etymology
The wordburrito means "little donkey" in Spanish, the diminutive form ofburro, or "donkey". Sonoran historian and politician, Horacio Sorbazo Díaz, explained that the term originated inSonora where some dubious taco stands would sell donkey meat instead of beef, and people, maliciously, began calling tacos "burritos" implying they were made with donkey meat.[9] Another possible origin is that it derives from the tendency for burritos to contain a lot of different things similar to how a donkey would be able to carry a large burden.[10]
History
Before the development of the modern burrito, theMaya civilization of Mexico usedcorn tortillas as early as 1500 BC towrap foods, with fillings ofchili peppers, tomatoes, mushrooms,squash, and avocados.[11] Historically, thePueblo peoples of theSouthwestern US also made tortillas filled with beans and meat sauce and prepared much like the modern burrito.[12] But these preparations could also be said to be the origin of the simplertaco, rather than the modern burrito.
The precise origin of the modern burrito is not known, but there is evidence that in Mexicoburrito was just another name, among others, for ataco, a rolled tortilla, whether corn or wheat, filled with meat or other ingredients. In the 1895Diccionario de Mejicanismos by Feliz Ramos i Duarte,burrito was identified as the regional name given in the Mexican state ofGuanajuato to what is known as ataco in other regions:[13][14]
Burrito: Tortilla arrollada, con carne u otra cosa dentro, que en Yucatán llaman coçito, y en Cuernavaca y en Mexico, taco.
Burrito: Rolled-up tortilla, with meat or other things inside, what in Yucatán is called acoçito and in Cuernavaca and Mexico [City] ataco.
— Feliz Ramos i Duarte
Both,Diccionario Agrícola Nacional (1935) by the MexicanDirección General de Estadística[15] andDiccionario de Mejicanismos (1959) by Mexican linguist and philologistFrancisco J. Santamaría, identifyburrito as another name for ataco in the state ofGuerrero, while in the State ofSinaloa it is specifically a taco filled with salt:[4]
En el Estado de Guerrero, taco, en el sentido de tortilla arrollada con comida adentro. En Yucatan le llaman coorto. En Sinaloa, taco de tortilla con sal.
(In the State of Guerrero, taco, in the sense of a rolled-up tortilla with food inside. In Yucatan they call itcoorto. In Sinaloa, a tortilla taco with salt.)
— Francisco J. Santamaría
The Dictionary of Mexican Spanish (Diccionario del Español de México) by theColegio de México also provides those definitions, stating that it is a regionalism from, both, the states of Guerrero andMichoacán fortaco; and also states that, in the state ofSinaloa, it is a "taco de sal" (salt taco), a rolled corn tortilla with salt in it.[5]
InVocabulario Sonorense (1966), Sonoran writer, historian and politician, Horacio Sobarzo Díaz, states the same, writing thatburro is another name for a taco, but argues that it's a regionalism from Sonora and that it originated from the fact that in some places in that state, donkey meat was sold instead of beef:[2]
Burro, s.m. Envoltorio de tortilla con carne o algún otro alimento, taco. Alude el vocablo a la carne de burro que ha sido apetecida por nuestros indígenas. La carne seca del vacuno es muy gustada en Sonora, y se ha observado en algunas ocasiones que, aprovechándose esta circunstancia, se trafique fraudulentamente con carne oreada de burro. Es de presumirse que en lugares donde se servían fritangas se "diera gato por liebre", y aludiéndose a ello maliciosamente se denominara burro al taco.
(Burro, s.m. A tortilla wrap with meat or some other food, taco. The word alludes to donkey meat that has been enjoyed by our indigenous people. Dried beef is very popular in Sonora, and it has been observed on some occasions that, taking advantage of this circumstance, dried donkey meat is fraudulently sold. It is presumed that in places where fried foods were served, a "bait and switch" was done, and alluding to this maliciously, the taco was calledburro (donkey).)
... the gentlemen from Morelia, suffering for their politeness in having escorted us, the two damsels of the bath, naiads of the boiling spring, pitying our hungry condition, came to offer their services; one asked me if I should like "to eat a burro in the mean time"? A burro being an ass, I was rather startled at the proposition, and assured her that I should infinitely prefer waiting a little longer before resorting to so desperate a measure. "Some people call them pecadoras", (female sinners!) said her sister. Upon this, the gentlemen came to our assistance, andburros orpecadoras were ordered forthwith. They proved to be hot tortillas, with cheese in them, and we found them particularly good.
Being thatburrito orburro was, originally, just a regional name for what is known as ataco orcodzito in other regions of Mexico, the use of both, corn and wheat flour tortillas was understandable. In fact, references toburritos made with corn tortillas appear as late as 1938 in California. Ana Bégué de Packman, author of the bookEarly California Hospitality (1938) wrote that corn and flour tortillas could be used interchangeably for making burritos.[17]
Currently, wheat flour tortilla burritos are known as "tacos de harina" (wheat flour tacos) in Central and Southern Mexico.[5]
Folk history
Stemming from the belief that burritos are distinct from tacos, there are many myths and folk stories about the origin of burritos, most of them originating in the United States.
An often repeated piece offolk history is the story of a man named Juan Méndez who sold tacos at a street stand in the Bella Vista neighborhood ofCiudad Juárez during theMexican Revolution period (1910–1921), while using a donkey as a transport for himself and his food.[18] To keep the food warm, Méndez wrapped it in large homemade flour tortillas underneath a small tablecloth. As the "food of theburrito" (i.e., "food of the little donkey") grew in popularity, "burrito" was eventually adopted as the name for these large tacos.[11]
In 1923, Alejandro Borquez opened the Sonora Cafe in Los Angeles that later changed its name toEl Cholo Spanish Cafe.[19] Burritos first appeared on American restaurant menus at the El Cholo Spanish Cafe in Los Angeles during the 1930s.[20] Burritos were mentioned in theU.S. media for the first time in 1934,[21] appearing in theMexican Cookbook, a collection of regional recipes fromNew Mexico that was written by historianErna Fergusson.[22] In 1956, afrozen burrito was developed inSouthern California byDuane Roberts.[23][24]: 192
Development of regional varieties
Mexico
Burritos are atraditional food ofCiudad Juárez, a city borderingEl Paso, Texas, in the northernMexican state ofChihuahua, where people buy them at restaurants androadside stands. Northern Mexicanborder towns likeVilla Ahumada have an established reputation for serving burritos. Authentic Mexican burritos are usually small and thin, with flour tortillas containing only one or two of several ingredients: either some form of meat or fish, potato,rice, beans,asadero cheese,chile rajas, orchile relleno.[25] Other ingredients may include:barbacoa,mole,refried beans and cheese (a "bean and cheese" burrito), ordeshebrada (shredded slow-cookedflank steak). Thedeshebrada burrito has a variation withchile colorado (mild to moderately hot) and one withsalsa verde (very hot). The Mexican burrito may be a northern variation of the traditionaltaco de Canasta, which is eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.[26]
Although burritos are one of the most popular examples of Mexican cuisine outside of Mexico, they are only popular in the northern part of Mexico. However, they are beginning to appear in some nontraditional venues in other parts of Mexico. Wheat flour tortillas (used in burritos) are now often seen throughout much of Mexico (possibly due to these areas being less than optimal for growing maize or corn), despite at one time being particular to northwestern Mexico, the Southwestern US Mexican-American community, andPueblo Indian tribes.
Burritos are commonly calledtacos de harina ("wheat flour tacos") in Central Mexico and Southern Mexico, andburritas (the feminine variation with 'a') in "northern-style" restaurants outside ofnorthern Mexico proper. A long and thin fried burrito called achivichanga, which is similar to achimichanga, is prepared in the state ofSonora and vicinity.[27]
The origins of the Mission burrito or Mission-style burrito can be traced back to San Francisco, in theMission Districttaquerías of the 1960s and 1970s. This type of burrito is produced on a steam tableassembly line, and is characterized by a large stuffed flour tortilla wrapped in aluminum foil, and may include fillings such ascarne asada (beef), Mexican-style rice, whole beans (notrefritos), sour cream and onion.
Febronio Ontiveros claims to have offered the first retail burrito in San Francisco in 1961 atEl Faro ("The Lighthouse"), acorner grocery store on Folsom Street. Ontiveros claims credit for inventing the "super burrito", a style which may have led to the early development of the "San Francisco style". This innovative style involves the addition of rice, sour cream and guacamole to the standard burrito of meat, beans, and cheese.[28][29] The Mission burrito emerged as a regional culinary movement during the 1970s and 1980s. The popularity of San Francisco-style burritos has grown locally atMission Street taquerias likeEl Farolito, and nationally at chains likeChipotle Mexican Grill,[30]Illegal Pete's,Chevy's Fresh Mex, Freebirds World Burrito,Qdoba, andBarberitos.Chili's had a brief stint with "Fresh Mex" foods and burritos between 2015 and 2017.[31] In 1995, World Wrapps opened in San Francisco'sMarina District and brought a burrito-inspiredwrap style to the restaurant industry.[32]
San Diego–style burritos include "California burritos" and carne asada burritos. The style has been described byfood writers as an "austere meal of meat, cheese and salsa", a contrast to the Mission-style burrito, which is typically larger and always contains more ingredients.[33] A significant subgroup of Mexican restaurants in San Diego serves burritos described as "no-frills" and, in contrast to Mission-style burritos, the assembly line is not used.[24]: 165 [34]
In the early 1960s, Roberto Robledo opened atortilleria in San Diego and learned the restaurant business. Robledo began selling small bean burritos (orburrititos) atLa Lomita in the late 1960s, and by 1970, he had established the firstRoberto's Taco Shop. By 1999, Roberto's restaurants had expanded to a chain of 60 taco shops offering fresh burritos known for their distinctive quality. Hoping to draw on the prestige of Roberto's, new taco shops in San Diego began using the "-bertos" suffix, with names like Alberto's, Filiberto's, Hilberto's, and others.[24]: 166–169 [35]
Contents of a California burrito
The California burrito originated at an unknown -berto's named restaurant in San Diego in the 1980s.[24]: 165, 168 The Fresh MXN chain (formerly Santana's) also claimed to be the originator of the California burrito.[36] The earliest-known published mention was in a 1995 article in theAlbuquerque Tribune.[37] The California burrito[38] typically consists of chunks of carne asada meat,French fries, cheese, and eithercilantro,pico de gallo, sour cream, onion, orguacamole (or some combination of these five).[24]: 153 [39][40][41] The ingredients are similar to those used in the "carne asada fries" dish, and it is considered a staple of thelocal cuisine of San Diego.[42][43] With the merging of French fries and more traditional burrito fillings, the California burrito is an example offusion border food.[34][43][44] The California burrito has also been described as a "trans-class" food item, as it is regularly consumed by people acrosssocioeconomic lines.[45] Variants of this burrito may addshrimp (surf and turf),[46] or substitutecarnitas (pork)[47] orchicken[43] for carne asada.
Thecarne asada burrito is considered one of the regional foods of San Diego.[48] Carolynn Carreno has said that to San Diegans, "carne asada burritos are as integral to the experience of the place as a slice of (pizza) pie is to a New Yorker."[49] The San Diego–style carne asada burrito is served with chunks ofcarne asada,guacamole, andpico de gallo salsa.[50][51] This "wall-to-wall" use of meat contrasts to burrito styles that use rice and beans as filler ingredients.[52]
Los Angeles
Los Angeles also has several unique local burrito varieties. The first is the most traditional and is exemplified by the versions at Mexican-American restaurants such as Al & Bea's, Lupe's #2, and Burrito King.[53][54] These restaurants have often been in existence for decades, and they offer a distinctlyAmericanized menu compared with the typicaltaqueria. The burrito of L.A. itself can take multiple forms, but is almost always dominated by some combination of:refried beans, meat (often stewed beef orchili), and cheese (usuallycheddar), with rice and other ingredients typical ofMission burritos offered as add-ons, if at all.[55]
The most basic version of this burrito consists of only beans and cheese; beyond this, there are the "green chile" and "red chile" burritos, which may simply mean the addition of chiles or a vegetarianchile sauce to theplain beans (as at Al & Bea's), meat or cheese as well.[56] Rice, again, is rarely included, which, along with the choice of chiles, is one of the style's most defining traits.[54] The menu will then usually go on to list multiple other combinations, such as beef and bean, all-beef, a "special" with further ingredients, etc. If the restaurant also offers hamburgers and sandwiches, it may sell a burrito version of these, such as a "hot dog burrito".[57]
In addition to the version described, Los Angeles is also home to three burrito styles that can be said to fall under the category of Mexicanfusion cuisine.[58] The first is the famed "kosher burrito", served since 1946 at itseponymous restaurant at1st Street andMain inDowntown Los Angeles.[59] Another is the Koreankogi burrito, invented by American chefRoy Choi, the first to combine Mexican andKorean cuisines.[60][61] The kogi burrito was named the seventh best burrito in Los Angeles in 2012 by theLA Weekly.[60] The kogi burrito is accented with chile-soyvinaigrette,sesame oil, and freshlime juice. Food writer Cathy Chaplin has said that "this is what Los Angeles tastes like."[62] Finally, there is thesushi burrito, most notably the version sold at theJogasakifood truck.[63] Wrapped in flour tortillas,sushi burritos include such fillings as spicy tuna,tempura, and cucumber.[62]
The existence of such a large truly Mexican community in Los Angeles also makes it possible to find a variety of authentic burrito dishes from differentregions of Mexico: fromOaxaca toHidalgo.[60]
Variations and similar dishes
Awet burrito is covered with a redchili sauce similar to ared enchilada sauce, withmelted shredded cheese on top. It is usually eaten from a plate using a knife and fork, rather than eaten with the hands.[64] This variety is sometimes called "smothered", "enchilada-style",mojado (Spanish for "wet"), orsuizo ("Swiss"; used in Spanish to indicate dishes topped with cheese or cream).
Aburrito bowl is not technically a burrito despite its name, as it consists of burrito fillings served without the tortilla. The fillings are placed in a bowl, and a layer of rice is put at the bottom.[65] In 2017, aMeal, Ready-to-Eat version of a burrito bowl was introduced.[66] It is not to be confused with ataco salad, which has a foundation of lettuce inside afried tortilla (tostada).
Ataco is similar to a burrito, but is served open rather than closed, is generally smaller, and is often made with corn tortillas rather than wheat tortillas.[68] The taco editor ofTexas Monthly argues that burritos are a type of taco.[69]
Dürüm is a Turkish wrap that is usually filled with typicaldoner kebab ingredients.
Taco Bellresearch chef Anne Albertine experimented with grilling burritos to enhance portability. This grilling technique allowed large burritos to remain sealed without spilling their contents.[70] This is a well-known cooking technique used by some San Franciscotaquerias andNorthern Mexicanburrito stands. Traditionally, grilled burritos are cooked on acomal (griddle).
Bean burritos, which are high in protein and low insaturated fat, have been touted for their health benefits.[71]Black bean burritos are also a good source of dietary fiber andphytochemicals.[72]
^Duggan, Tara (April 29, 2001)."The Silver Torpedo". San Francisco Chronicle.Archived from the original on February 27, 2009. RetrievedApril 24, 2007.
^abcMorales, Eric César; Carrillo, Julián (2012)."Burritos". In Herrera-Sobek, Maria (ed.).Celebrating Latino Folklore. ABC-CLIO. pp. 178–180.ISBN978-0-313-34339-1.
^Keoke, Emory Dean; Porterfield, Kay Marie (2002). "Snack foods".Encyclopedia of American Indian Contributions to the World: 15,000 Years of Inventions and Innovations. New York: Facts On File, Inc. p. 240.ISBN978-1-4381-0990-9.
^Hauck-Lawson, Annie S. (1998). "When Food is the Voice: A Case Study of a Polish-American Woman".Journal for the Study of Food and Society.2 (6). Association for the Study of Food and Society: 23.doi:10.2752/152897998786690592. "Don Carlos Taco Shop".San Diego Magazine. San Diego Magazine Publishing Company: 67. 2000.Archived from the original on July 4, 2023. RetrievedJanuary 10, 2015. Berkmoes, Ryan Ver; Averbuck, Alexis; Bender, Andrew; Bing, Alison; Cavalieri, Nate; Channell, Dominique; Kohn, Beth (October 1, 2010).Lonely Planet California Trips. Lonely Planet. p. 105.ISBN978-1-74220-390-4.Archived from the original on July 4, 2023. RetrievedOctober 29, 2015. Cappello, Nile (July 22, 2013)."California Burrito: Get To Know This Local Favorite".Huffington Post.Archived from the original on January 11, 2015. RetrievedJanuary 10, 2015.
^See for example:Berkmoes, Ryan; Benson, Sara (2009). "California Iconic Trips: A Burrito Odyssey".California Trips. Lonely Planet.ISBN978-1-74179-727-5.
^Ryan, Richard (Winter 2003). "Is it border cuisine, or merely a case of NAFTA indigestion?".Journal for the Study of Food and Society.6 (2):21–30.doi:10.2752/152897903786769607.S2CID143599750.
^Wyer, Sarah C. (Fall 2014)."The San Diego Burrito".Digest.3 (2). Chaplain College.Archived from the original on May 29, 2015. RetrievedMay 29, 2015.
^Carreno, Carolynn (November 10, 2004)."The Wrap that Ate L.A."Los Angeles Times.Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. RetrievedJanuary 17, 2013.
^Tan, Rebecca Lynne (October 20, 2013). "Mex out on food—Mexican cuisine hits Singapore in a big way, with more eateries". The Sunday Times (Singapore).
^The University of Pennsylvania Health System.Breakfast, Dinner or Anytime Burrito. Adapted from the Cancer Nutrition Information, LLC. Archive URL: March 25, 2006.
Further reading
Ellman, Mark; Santos, Barbara (2003).Maui Tacos Cookbook. Pendulum Publishing.ISBN0-9652243-3-3.