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Big wall climbing is a form ofrock climbing that takes place on both very long and very sheermulti-pitchclimbing routes – ofat least 6–10pitches or 300–500 metres in length – that typically require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. Big wall routes are sustained and exposed and the climbers typically remain suspended from the continuously sheer and vertical rock face, even hanging from the face when sleeping, with limited options to sit down or escape unless theyabseil down the route—which is itself a complex and risky action. It is therefore considered a physically and mentally demanding form of rock climbing.
Big wall climbing is typically done bypairs of climbers using atraditional climbing style, but with the distinction that the non-lead climber usually ascends byjumaring up afixed rope to save time and energy. It requires an extensive range of supplies and equipment over and above that of traditional-climbing that is carried inhaul bags, such asportaledges,aid climbing equipment,poop tubes, and food and water. Big wall climbing also requires additionalclimbing techniques such as using pendulums/tension traversing, using aid climbing techniques, employingtrail ropes, jumaring, and sometimes the technique ofsimul climbing.
Big wall climbing began in theDolomites with pioneers such asEmilio Comici inventing many techniques and tools in the 1930s, and then spreading throughout the entire European Alps by climbers such asRiccardo Cassin andWalter Bonatti with his milestone solo ascent of theDru in 1955. From the 1960s, American climbers led byRoyal Robbins developedYosemite into the world's most important big-wall climbing venue, withLynn Hill's 1993first free ascent ofThe Nose onEl Capitan being an important milestone in big-wall history. High-altitude big-walls have been scaled inPatagonia and in theHimalayas.
Big wall climbing isrock climbing on large and very sheer / vertical climbing routes that often take a full day, if not several days, of continuous climbing to ascend. Big wall climbing is a form ofmulti-pitch climbing but there is no definition of how manypitches are needed for a route to be a big wall; a minimum ofat least 6–10 pitches (or roughly 300–500 metres) is typically required. Big wall climbing is usually done in pairs aslead climbing, however, due to the length of the climbs, the second climber usually ascends via afixed rope to save energy and time.[1][2]
Big wall climbing can be performed asfree climbing, however, it is common for big wall climbers to use some level ofaid climbing on the route, as it is often impossible for very large multi-pitch routes to have a uniform level of difficulty (i.e. there may be some sections that are well beyond the difficulties of the rest of the route).[3] Most big wall routes requiretraditional climbing techniques forclimbing protection however some routes havebolted sections (orpitons) likesport climbing routes. Big wall routes have also beenfree solo climbed.[1][2]
Big wallclimbing routes are typically sustained (due to them being continuously sheer) and exposed, where the climbers are suspended from the rock wall during their entire ascent with limited availability to sit down (e.g. few large ledges), or to escape from the wall other than byabseiling back down the entire route (which can be itself a risky process). Big wall climbing is thus a more serious undertaking than regular multi-pitch rock climbing, and climbers will generally only attempt big wall routes atgrades that they can easily manage as multi-pitch routes.[1][2]
The duration and sustained exposure of big wall climbs require greater equipment—and equipment-handling skills—over and above what is required for multi-pitch routes. Big wall climbers need to be able to haul gear and supplies up the route as they climb (using pulleys andhaul bags), ascend onfixed ropes (the non-leading climber), build major anchor points (forhanging belays),hammer-in bolts and pitons as required, and set upportaledges for resting and sleeping. Given the length of the routes, this must happen efficiently.[1][2]
In determining what is a "big wall", there is not only debate about the height requirements but also on whether it includesalpine climbs such as the north faces of theEiger and theMatterhorn, which also have a lot of snow and ice.[4] Regardless, a number of walls are considered particularly notable in the development of big-wall climbing:[5][4][6]
In addition to the above big walls, several other locations are regarded as having impressive big walls that have been climbed. However, their level of challenge — often due to the variable or poor quality of the underlying rock face — has not been as notable in the development of big wall climbing, and they are no climbed as frequently as the above walls. They includeTroll Wall (Norway),Cerro Autana (Venezuela),Naranjo de Bulnes (Spain),[14]Tsaratanana Massif (Madagascar),[14]Potrero Chico (Mexico),Ketil (Greenland), andNotch Peak andThe Streaked Wall (Utah).[4][5][14]
One of the earliest examples of "big wall climbing" dates from 1887 when a 17-year-oldGeorg Winklerfree soloed theVajolet Towers in theDolomites.[15] The Dolomites were the birthplace of big wall climbing, and where pioneerEmilio Comici invented many big wall techniques such asaid climbing with multi-stepaiders,hanging belays andbivouacs, advanced rope maneuvers, and leading with atrail rope. In 1933, Comici climbed the overhanging north face of theCima Grande, then the world's hardest big wall route. Other pioneers such asRiccardo Cassin, a leadingalpinist, created harder routes and spread big wall techniques across the Alps.[5] In 1955,Walter Bonatti ushered in modern big wall climbing with his six-day solo of a new route on the southwest pillar of thePetit Dru, one of the most important big wall climbs in history.[5][16]
In 1957, a team led byRoyal Robbins climbed theNorthwest Face of Half Dome inYosemite, ushering in modern American big wall climbing.[7] In 1958, a team led byWarren Harding aid climbedThe Nose onEl Capitan using siege tactics (600 pitons and 125 bolts) over 47 days; while the ascent got worldwide recognition it was controversial due to the excessive use of aid.[7] Robbins' ethos of minimizing the use of aid prevailed over that of Harding, and his legacy of partially aided ascents including theSalathé Wall (1961), theNorth American Wall (1964), and theMuir Wall (1968) cemented Yosemite, and the granite walls of El Capitan, as the world's most important big wall climbing venue and Robbins' place in big wall history.[16][17]
The development of big wall techniques and tools in the European Alps and Yosemite led to a worldwide search for new big walls. In 1963, a team led byChris Bonington established the first big wall routes on theCordillera Paine,Chile andPatagonia, followed closely by new Italian-led routes. In 1972,Doug Scott, and laterCharlie Porter, developed big wall routes onMount Asgard, and highlighted the enormous big wall potential ofBaffin Island.[11] In 1976, a British team led byJoe Brown ascended one of the first-ever high-altitude big wall routes with the graniteTrango (Nameless) Tower in theKarakoram,[5] which was followed in 1992 by the two-man team ofJohn Middendorf andXaver Bongard [de] who ascended the east buttress of the neighboringGreat Trango Tower, putting upThe Grand Voyage (1,340-metres, 33-pitches, VII 5.10 A4+), the longest big wall route in the world.[8]
Starting about 1910, leading climbers began to fullyfree-climb major big wall routes. Tita Piaz,Hans Dülfer, Emil Solleder, Gian Battista Vinatzer, Mathias Rebitsch and Frank Sacherer were the most prominent in their respective generations. In 1988,Todd Skinner and Paul Piana freed theSalathe Wall on El Capitan at5.13b (8a).[7][16] In 1989,Wolfgang Gullich, with others, established the mega-routeEternal Flame on Nameless Tower (fully freed by theHubers in 2009),[16] and in 1991, createdRiders on the Storm on the Torres del Paine.[16] In 1993,Lynn Hill claimed one of the greatest prizes in big wall climbing by freeingThe Nose on El Capitan at5.14a (8b+).[7][16] In 2001,Alexander Huber freedBellavista [it] on theCima Ovest at8c (5.14b).[16] In 2015,Tommy Caldwell andKevin Jorgeson freedDawn Wall on El Capitan at5.14d (9a).[7][16] During this era, new milestones were also set inbig-wall free solo climbing byAlexander Huber, withBrandler-Hasse Direttissima on theCima Grande in 2012 at7a+ (5.12a), byHansjörg Auer, withFish Route on theMarmolada in 2007 at7b+ (5.12c), and byAlex Honnold withFreerider on El Capitan in 2017 at7c+ (5.13a).[16]
Big wall climbing requires the equipment used intraditional climbing andmulti-pitch climbing (but in greater volume as the pitches are of fuller length), as well as specific additional items that are needed for extended multi-day muti-pitch big wall routes, including:[3][18][19]
Many big wall climbers carry a set ofaid climbing equipment includingaiders,daisy chains,pitons (and alsoangles,knifeblades,copperheads and even bolt kits), ahammer,hooks (and alsoskyhooks,talon hooks,cam hooks),prusiks,fifi hooks and achest harness/gear sling. This is because some aid techniques may be required (see Techniques).[3][18][19]
The sustained and exposed nature of big walls requires secureanchor points. These can be for creating temporary camps (e.g. from whichportledges are suspended), but also for setting uphanging belay systems (including a bosun's chair for comfort), and strong-points for long and complex abseils, pendulums, or tension-traverses (see Techniques).[3][18][19]
A distinctive aspect of big wall climbing is the need for extra-long 60–70-metre (200–230 ft)fixed or static ropes that are in addition to the standarddynamic ropes (which will also be extra long for big walls) that are used in alllead climbing. Static ropes are used by the non-lead climber to ascend the route usingascenders (i.e.jumaring), while lighter and thinner non-climbing statictrail ropes are also used by both climbers to haul up equipment at the end of each pitch, and also to pass equipment between them while climbing (they are not strong enough for climbing).[3][18][19]
Water is one of the heaviest elements that the climbers have to carry, and big walls typically require circa 3-4 liters per day per person to be hauled along the route. Mistakes due todehydration in the sustained and serious environment of big wall climbing can have serious outcomes. Climbers will also need food/energy provisions to sustain them for the ascent, including any unforeseen delays (e.g., getting trapped in bad weather).[3][18][19]
While the essence of big wall climbing is that oftraditional climbing, and particularlymulti-pitch climbing, it also uses a number of specific techniques that are important in being able to meet the unique challenges of ascending big wall routes, which include the following:[3][20]
The use ofaid-climbing techniques is common in big wall climbing as the scale of the routes mean that some sections may have difficulties that are way beyond the difficulties encountered on the rest of the route.[3] In addition, abseil retreat from big wall routes is serious and complex, and thus climbers may use aid to maintain their upward momentum rather than retreating (also calledFrench free climbing).[3][20]
The belayer (or second-climber) is often not themselves belayed as they ascend the route as per a normallead climbing team format. To conserve energy and move quickly on the long routes, the lead-climber will anchor their dynamic lead-rope on finishing the pitch, allowing their belayer tojumar-up the now fixed lead-rope (cleaning out the protection that was installed by the lead-climber en route) usingascenders ortop rope soloing.[3][20][21]
To speed up their ascent on long big-wall routes, some climbing pairs will usesimul climbing techniques where both climbers (the lead climber and the belayer) move simultaneously up the route without any need to use pitches per lead climbing. Simul climbing techniques are complex and dangerous, and require significant coordination and trust between the climbers.[3][20]
Some big wall routes can have long horizontaltraverse pitches that need to be climbed in order to get to the nextcrack system. These traverse pitches place increased demands on the skills of the non-leading climber as they cannot use fixed-rope techniques to jumar-up to the lead climber and they effectively have to also lead the pitch (albeit with the protection pre-placed). The 2017 filmThe Dawn Wall features an extremely difficult big wall traverse pitch that the following climber,Kevin Jorgeson, spent several days trying to overcome.[3][20]
On some big wall routes, the 'traverse pitches' may simply be too blank or featureless for most climbers. In such cases the climbers may need to usependulums ortension traverses (e.g. a half-pendulum that uses rope tension for aid) to move horizontally to reach the next crack system.[3][20] One of the most notable isKing Swing, 100-foot swing from Boot Flake to Eagle Ledge on theNose (VI 5.9 C2) of El Capitan.[22][23]
The lead climber may also use an additionaltrail rope, which is a thinner and lighter static-rope they trail behind as they ascend. It allows them to pass equipment with their belayer below while on the climb (e.g. pieces of aid gear). Once the lead climber has reached the top of the pitch, they anchor their dynamic lead-rope (which the belayer then jumars up on), and can start hauling up equipment with the trail rope.[3][20]
Big wall climbing is used exclusively in relation to rock climbing. Long rock climbing routes that also have ice or snow, are referred to asalpine climbing. There is overlap in the skill sets, and many famous alpinists such asWalter Bonatti,Catherine Destivelle, andAlexander Huber, were also big wall climbers. The most common grading systems used in big wall climbing are theFrench,American (also known as the Yosemite Decimal System), and to a lesser extent theUIAA rock climbing grades forfree climbing; theA-grade or C-grade systems are used for sections ofaid climbing.[24][25]
In addition to the above rock climbing grades (for both free climbing and for aid climbing), aNational Climbing Classification System (NCCS) grade is sometimes quoted on North American big-wall (andalpine) climbs, that are described by theAmerican Alpine Club (republished in 2013) as follows: "North American NCCS grades, often called "commitment grades", indicate the time investment in a route for an "average" climbing team":[26][27]
Because of the great length of big-wall routes, detailedtopos are usually provided outlining the grades on each pitch, and the aid climbing versus free climbing options at key sections. For example, one of the most famous big wall routes is the 31-pitch 870-metre routeThe Nose, on El Capitan, which is graded VI 5.9 C2 as a partial aid climb (mainly due to its roof section), but which is graded VI5.14a (8b+) if climbed completely free.[24]
The following big wallfree climbingredpoints (i.e. no aid) are notable in the evolution of big wall climbing grade milestones and standards from being a skill used inalpine climbing to a standalone sport in its own right; some are at the borderline of being multi-pitch rather than big wall climbs:[16]
A number of big wall-free climbs are notable for their high altitude or the remoteness of the expedition:
A number of notable films have been made focused on big wall climbing including:[46]
