| Baluchari sari | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Production area | |
| Country |  India |
| State | West Bengal |
| Location | Bishnupur |
| Details | |
| Invented | 18 century |
| Origin Place | Baluchar,Murshidabad,West Bengal |
| Ingredients | Silk |
| Length | 5–6.5 metres (16–21 ft) |
| Breadth | 116–122 centimetres (3.81–4.00 ft) |
| Style | Bengal tradition |
| Usage | Festival |
| Status | |
| GI Status | Registered |
| Application No. | 173 |
Baluchari Sari (Bengali: বালুচরী শাড়ি) is a type ofsari, a garment worn by women in theIndian states ofWest Bengal,Tripura andAssam and the country ofBangladesh. This particular type of sari originated inWest Bengal and is known for depictions of mythological scenes on theanchal of the sari. It used to be produced inMurshidabad but presentlyBishnupur and its surrounding areas of West Bengal are the only place where authentic Baluchari saris are produced. It takes approximately one week to produce one such sari.[1][2] In 2011, the Baluchari Sari was granted the status ofGeographical Indication for West Bengal in India.[3]
Baluchari Sari made oftassar silk and a thousand years old when theJagat Malla king rule inMallabhum.[4][5] This flourishing trend later declined, especially during British rule, due to political and financial reasons. It became a dying craft as most of the weavers were compelled to give up the profession.
In the first half of twentieth century, Subho Thakur, a famous artist, felt the need to recultivate the rich tradition of Baluchari craft. Though Bishnupur was always famous for its silk, he invited Akshay Kumar Das, a master weaver of Bishnupur, to his center to learn the technique of jacquard weaving. Sri Das then went back to Bishnupur and worked hard to weave Baluchari on their looms with the financial and moral support of Sri Hanuman Das Sarda of Silk Khadi Seva Mandal.
According toManiklal Sinha,[6][7] Baluchari saree in the post independent year, government of India tried to recover. In obedience to the government of its then Sri Shyamadas babu this extinct Baluchari Tat-Veteran renowned artist 'Akshay Kumar Das (Potranga) and his subtle artwork discovered its weaving process by feeling. In this regard, he is completely helped by Nikhil Bharat Khadi and Village Development Commission certified byBishupur.
Silk Khadi Seva Mandal Local Director Hanuman Das Sarada. Thus 'Akshay Babur a renaissance of the Baluchari saree has been heralded through sheer hard work and a touch of innovative ingenuity.
Once Bishnupur was the capital of Malla dynasty and different kinds of crafts flourished during their period under the patronage of Malla kings. Temples made of terracotta bricks were one achievement of these rulers. A major influence of these temples can be seen in Baluchari sarees. Mythological stories taken from the walls of temples and woven on Baluchari sarees is a common feature in Bishnupur.[8]
The production process of Baluchari[9] can be divided into several parts:
Cultivation of cocoons: Since the discovery so many years ago that the fibre or filament composing the cocoon of the silkworm can be constructed into a beautiful and durable fabric, silkworms have been bred for the sole purpose of producing raw silk.
Processing of yarns: To make the yarn soft, it is boiled in a solution of soda and soap and then dyed in acid colour, according to the requirement of the sari. The yarn is stretched from both the sides in opposite directions putting some force with both palms. This process is needed to make the yarn crisper.
Motif making: Making of the motifs for 'pallavs' and other part of Baluchari is in itself an intricate process. The design is drawn on a graph paper, it is coloured and punching is done using cards. After punching, these cards are sewed in order and fixed in the jacquard machine.
Weaving: After thejacquard loom has been introduced, the weaving of a Baluchari sari takes five to six days. Two weavers work on a shifting basis.
Baluchari thus prepared becomes a sign of aristocracy, the attire of status. Maintenance of quality of Baluchari sari is taken care of precisely. The quality is checked from the stage of dying of the yarn to the packaging of the sari.[8]
[10]Baluchari saris, locally called Baluchori saris, today often have depictions from scenes of Mahabharat and Ramayana. During theMughal andBritish eras, they had a square design in thepallu with paisley motifs in them. They depicted scenes from the lives of the Nawab of Bengal featuring women smoking hookahs, nawabs driving horse carriages, and even European officers of the East India Company. It would take two craftsmen working for almost a week to produce one sari. The main material used is silk and the sari is polished after weaving.[11][12]
Baluchari saris illustrate Hindu mythological scenes,nature,folklore, legends, historical events, andabstract designs. They showcase gods, heroes, nature elements, love stories,battles, and contemporary patterns.[13]
While there isn’t a lot of variation in the method of weaving used today, balucharis can be broadly categorized based on the threads used in weaving the patterns:
With the changing times, the Baluchari sari has had a makeover and a touch of eco-friendliness in terms of the used yarns and colours.
Cotton Kapas is spun with fibres of banana plants and bamboo shoots and the dyes are extracts of fruits, flowers, leaves, and vegetables such as pomegranate, jamun, neem fruits and leaves, basil leaves, turmeric, marigold flowers, mangoes and others.
The organic baluchari cotton sarees were displayed in the sari fair organised by Rang Mahal, a forum of weavers from Nadia district in West Bengal. However, with the GI certification of Baluchari sarees with reference to Bankura district of West Bengal in India, it is now not permitted to use the term Baluchari for any other similar product based on cotton or any other material.[14][15]
The Baluchari sari was one of the award winners for the main weaving styles amongst 34 National Awards for the years 2009 and 2010 presented by the Hon. PresidentPranab Mukherjee.[16]
The Baluchari sari of Bankura was showcased at the India International Trade Fair organised atNew Delhi. The pavilion ofWest Bengal prominently displayed those products of handicrafts and handloom sector which were recognised for their unique nature keeping the theme "Skilling India" in view.[17]
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