 Tani Yutaka, theMalayan-Japanese secret agent, photographed in Baju Melayu | |
| Type | Traditional dress |
|---|---|
| Place of origin | Malaysia |
| Manufacturer | Malays |
Baju Melayu (Jawi:باجو ملايو) is a traditionalMalay costume for men, originated from the court ofMalacca Sultanate and is traditionally worn by men inBrunei,Malaysia,Singapore, parts ofIndonesia (especiallySumatra andKalimantan), southernPhilippines, and southernThailand.[1][2] In its formal form, Baju Melayu is thenational dress ofMalaysia[3] andBrunei,[4] typically worn during official events and functions.
A basic combination of Baju Melayu attire comes in two main parts. The first being thebaju (long-sleeved shirt) itself which has either raised stiff collar known as thecekak musang collar (literally fox's leash) or the round neckline with a short slit opening down the front, known as theteluk belanga collar. The second part is the trousers calledcelana orseluar.[5] The two parts are made out of the same type of fabric which is usually cotton, or a mixture of polyester and cotton. In a formal attire, a skirt-type adornment is added, which is either thesamping, made out ofsongket,tenun cloth or thesarong, made out of cotton or a polyester mix. Jet-black or dark-colored headgear called thesongkok to be worn to complete the formal attire. For a ceremonial attire or known in Malay assepersalinan, commonly worn during cultural functions, thesongkok headgear typically replaced with thetengkolok.[6] The normalbaju can sometimes be substituted with a combination oftekua[7] (a type of short sleeves jacket). In a more elaborate dress,baju sikap orbaju layang (a type of coat)[8][9] andpending (ornamental belt buckle) are worn.[10] Optional accessories include a kris tucked into thesamping folded at the waist,[11] and a traditionalcapal (sandal).[12]
The term 'Baju Melayu' literally means the 'Malayshirt'. The wordbaju (Jawi:باجو) is derived fromPersian:بازو,lit. 'upper arm',[13] whileMelayu (Jawi:ملايو) is theendonym forMalay peoples. The earliest literary reference to the term 'Baju Melayu' was from theMalay Annals, written sometime between 15th to 16th centuries.[14][15] However, its early usage in the literature might possibly in generic form, referring to the general Malay clothing, rather than a specific type of outfit.[16][17]
An alternative term, the 'Baju Kurung' (Jawi:باجو كوروڠ) literally 'concealed' or 'enclosed dress', which was also a generic one, is thought to be introduced later, supposedly coined for the design created by Temenggung Tun Hasan during the reign of Sultan Mahmud Shah, that manage to conceal most of body parts.[18][19] It was this term, that embodies the philosophical foundation for the dress of both men and women, that became popular for the next hundreds of years afterMelaka Sultanate.[20] However, in modern Malaysia, the men's outfit was renamed 'Baju Melayu' to distinguish it from the women's outfit which remain to be known asBaju Kurung. Nevertheless, the generic use of the term 'Baju Kurung' survived inSingapore and it continued to refer to the traditional outfits for both sexes.[2]
Men and women have their hair in a knot, and are clad with a single piece of cloth. Girls of rich families wear four or five golden circles on their foreheads, and the daughters of the common people use strings of colored glass beads instead.
The early Malay clothing style, like most of the tropical world, was simple and using a single piece of cloth for both sexes. This was the description byFei Xin, aChinese Muslim and an Arabic scholar who wrote an account about pre-IslamicPahang in theXingcha Shenglan.[21] The rise of Melaka Sultanate in the 15th century brought about significant changes to the Malay clothing style. As an important trading port, Melaka emerged not only as a commercial, but also a cultural and religious centre. The strong infusion of Islamic values as well as the extensive influence brought by multi-ethnic trading communities, encouraged the development of different aspects of Malay culture; language, literature, arts and cultures.[18]
The strong Islamic influence had transformed the early Malay clothing styles in accordance to Islamic values.[18][22] The first literary reference to 'Baju Melayu' was from theMalay Annals written during the heyday of Melaka Sultanate.[14][15] TheMalay Annals attributes the introduction of court protocol and dress codes and other rules toSultan Muhammad Shah (1424-1444). The legal code of the sultanate,Undang-Undang Melaka is also thought first promulgated in this period. During Muhammad Shah's reign, it was decreed that the manner of Malay dress must be distinct from those of the foreign lands, be it fromatas angin (Arab, India and Europe) orbawah angin (China and Khmer).[23] It was believed that from this era, the early form of a distinctive Malay dress, consisting of the basickain (cloth),baju (shirt), anddestar (headdress), began to take shape in Melakan society.[24][25][26]
In later years of the sultanate, a proper ceremonial dress of a Malay men, calledlima persalinan ('five clothing parts') which was described in theHikayat Hang Tuah, is said to appear during the reign ofSultan Mansur Shah (1459–1477). The five basic parts are garment (baju), bottom (seluar), headgear (destar), sash (sebai), waist (kain samping).[27] Further improvisations took place during the reign ofSultan Mahmud Shah (1488-1511), when Temenggung Tun Hassan introduced an expanded version of the shirt with a more loose-fitting shape and lengthened sleeves to wrist level. It was said that the termBaju Kurung ('concealed dress') was then coined for the creation as it successfully concealed most of body parts.[18] The clothing style along with other Malay cultural values were then spread throughMalayisation of the region, by many succeeding Malay sultanates.
The Melakan style of dress remains in Malay societies for the next hundreds of years before it was brought again to the fore during the reign ofAbu Bakar of Johor (1862-1895).[18] Numerous reforms were undertaken during his rule, including the modernisation of Malay clothing style. A more elegant style ofBaju Kurung was introduced with a shortened hem of the shirt to the level of the back, three pockets and a round neckline with a short slit opening down the front. The style was named after the former capital ofJohor,Telok Blangah, and was introduced by Dato'Jaafar Muhammad, who would become the firstMenteri Besar of Johor.[28] It was said that the new style was invented to differentiate Abu Bakar's followers clothing style with that old Melakan clothing style worn by the descendants ofSultan Hussin and their followers that resided inIstana Kampong Glam.[29] Another popular style calledCekak Musang was also said to had been introduced during the reign of Abu Bakar by a resident of Teluk Belanga called Haji Othman or Tuan Busu or Wan Busu. Initially calledBaju Wan, it has the same cut withTeluk Belanga style but with a high collar split and tighten with 5 buttons.[30] This style went on to become the most popular style until modern times, while the Teluk Belanga style remains a unique clothing style to the state of Johor.[31]
The traditional Baju Melayu commonly features a form ofbaju (shirt) with fourpesak (side panels) and twokekek (small gussets) under the armholes so that they fit and hang well.,[32] although the more contemporary adaptations tend to omit these features in their design. Thebaju is traditionally worn by men with trousers called theseluar. Theseluar are traditionally wide at the top, fastened with a running string called tali, and closer at the legs where it extends to below the knees. The styles of seluar include theseluar Aceh,seluar gadah which reaches to the ankles andseluar pendek which terminates at about the middle of the thighs. Theseluar panjang are long and are sometimes buttoned at the feet.[33] The different styles of Baju Melayu can be generally distinguished in the neck opening design of thebaju, as well as the wearing styles and combinations, depending on status and regions. But the most common syles of Baju Melayu are as follows:
This style is named afterTelok Blangah inSingapore, where the administrative capital ofJohor was located under the rule ofTemenggong Daeng Ibrahim.[28] His sonAbu Bakar who succeeded in 1862, initiated various reforms during his administration including the introduction of the new style of Malay dress. In 1866, following the shift of the capital toTanjung Puteri (later known as Johor Bahru), in commemorating the event, the new style of Baju Melayu was named after the old capital.[29] Among modifications done to included a shortened hem of the shirt to the level of the back and three front pockets. The most striking feature of this style is that the shirt's neck opening is hemmed with stiff stitching calledtulang belut (literally eel's spine) and ends with a small loop at the top of one side to fit a singular button known askancing. A type of button, set in a cluster of diamonds is calledkunang-kunang sekebun, while the golden button is calledgaram sebuku.[32] The shirt is worn together with asamping orsarong which either wrapped below the shirt ('dagang dalam') or above the shirt ('dagang luar').[34] In the past, only members of the royal family and aristocrats were allowed to wear the samping indagang luar style.[31]
The style literally means the 'fox's leash', a name used to describe the design of its collar. It was also introduced during the reign of Sultan Abu Bakar, by a resident ofTelok Blangah called Haji Othman or Tuan Busu or Wan Busu. Its original name wasBaju Wan and comes with the same cut with Teluk Belanga, but with a raised collar.[30] Theplacket of thebaju will seem to form a third of thebaju from the top when it is worn with thekain samping orkain sarung.[35] However, the hemline of thebaju actually runs to the middle of the lap. The placket typically has three to five buttonholes and is fastened together by dress studs calledkancing orsitat which are not unlike those used in Western-style formaldress shirts. The studs usually have screw-on backs and can be made from a variety of materials including gold, silver, and precious or semi-precious stones. The studs may also be connected with a light metal chain which will be concealed behind the shirt when the placket is fastened. Contrary to Teluk Belanga style, the samping in this style is typically worn above the baju, in a style known asdagang dalam.[36] This style of Baju Melayu is considered the most common throughout the region and has been adopted as the formal dress in Malaysia and Brunei. In other parts of Southeast Asia, a type of dress identical to theCekak Musang style is also commonly known asTeluk Belanga or its other spelling variants;taruk balanga (Maranao-Tausūg) andtaluak balango (Minangkabau).[37][38]
The third but less known style is Kolar Tunku. It was originally made for the firstPrime Minister of Malaysia,Tunku Abdul Rahman and has the same cut as Cekak Musang and Teluk Belanga but different collar's design. It took inspiration fromMandarin collar that comes with rounded collar's corner. Unlike Cekak Musang style, it has no button at the collar, leaving only three buttons on the placket.[39]
The Baju Melayu is also the source of inspiration for a number of uniforms worn by several uniformed services and martial arts organizations. The officialfull dress uniform orbaju istiadat ('ceremonial uniform'), or uniform number 1 for theenlisted rank personnel of theMalaysian Armed Forces, is inspired from the wearing style of Baju Melayu, by having white tunic coats and trousers, worn together with dark green songkok and green and gold brocadesamping.[40][41] This tradition dates back to the establishment of theRoyal Malay Regiment in 1932. Its original regimentalservice dress uniform, consisted of a green velvet songkok, spotless white top and trousers as well as a green and red silk samping.[42] In modern times, theCentral Band of the Royal Malay Regiment that commonly perform in the ceremonial dress, became the most senior and the official central band of theMalaysian Army that is dedicated to providing ceremonial honours and music to theYang di-Pertuan Agong, thePrime Minister, theChief Justice, thePresident of the Senate, and theSpeaker of the House of Representatives.
In the Police force, the design of the ceremonial uniform for the non-gazetted officers of theRoyal Malaysian Police is identical to that of armed forces, but comes with blue and black brocade samping.[41] An almost similar design can also be found adopted in the full-dress uniform of theRoyal Brunei Armed Forces with only differences are in colour variants. In traditionalSilat trainings, the uniform is commonly consist of a baggy black trousers and a black long sleeves baju melayu. Some schools require the practitioners to wearbengkung (belts) during training, with different colours signifying different rank, while some silat schools replace the bengkung with a modern buckled belt. Headdress is optional but donning a blackbandana is popular.[43] Asarong can also be worn along with a roll of cloth which could be used as a bag, a blanket or a weapon[44]
The Baju Melayu is commonly worn by Malay men inSoutheast Asia during major Islamic festival celebrations likeEid ul-Fitr,Eid al-Adha andIslamic New Year, particularly in countries with significant Malay populations;Brunei,Indonesia,Malaysia,Singapore,Thailand, andPhilippines.[2]
In Brunei and Malaysia where Malays are the dominant ethnicity, Baju Melayu is the national dress for men.[3][4] Day to day usage is maintained in general religious occasions, like visiting mosques or for a religious gathering, or in other social functions like weddings. A full Cekak Musang attire in black, worn together with a blacksongkok andsamping embroidered with gold thread, is considered a formal dress.[45] It is the national attire required by protocol during official national events, especially highly formal ones like the official celebration of theYang di-Pertuan Agong orSultan of Brunei's birthday, the sworn in of a Prime Minister and cabinet members, and the appointment of ambassadors.[45] Malaysian ambassadors presenting their credentials to foreign heads of state are also required to wear the black Baju Melayu.[46] The white Baju Melayu is worn by the royalties when mourning the passing away of a member of the royal family. In civil service, Baju Melayu is an alternative formal attire to be worn on Fridays or in any highly ceremonial events.[47] Some private companies also allowed their male workers to wear Baju Melayu on Fridays, whereas others have it as a policy. Baju Melayu is also adopted as the formal uniform for Fridays in both primary and secondary public schools.
In Indonesia, both theBaju Melayu in both collar styles (and other Malay clothes such asBaju Kurung) is popular in provinces with large Malay populations such asRiau, theRiau Islands,West Kalimantan and a few other provinces mainly inSumatera and other places where the presence of ethnic Malays are dominant. Recently, theBaju Melayu has become more popular and is not only worn at traditional events, but also on informal occasions. Government officials inRiau and other places wear them proudly during official events (even national events). TheBetawi version ofBaju Melayu is calledBaju Demang, because Betawi are also part of the bigMalay tradition, its customs and attire is similar to the Malay. Other local indigenous Malay ethnics in Indonesia also have their own style ofBaju Melayu probably which have the same similarities such as the usage of theSongkok as the headdress for men andkain samping.
Clothing identified withIndonesian culture and still worn today | |
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