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Ayvalık | |
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 View of Ayvalık town centre | |
 Logo | |
 Map showing Ayvalık District in Balıkesir Province | |
  Ayvalık Location in Turkey Show map of Turkey Ayvalık Ayvalık (Marmara) Show map of Marmara | |
| Coordinates:39°19′00″N26°41′40″E / 39.31667°N 26.69444°E /39.31667; 26.69444 | |
| Country | Turkey |
| Province | Balıkesir |
| Government | |
| • Mayor | Mesut Ergin (CHP) |
Area | 305 km2 (118 sq mi) |
| Population (2022)[1] | 74,030 |
| • Density | 243/km2 (629/sq mi) |
| Time zone | UTC+3 (TRT) |
| Postal code | 10400 |
| Area code | 0266 |
| Website | www |
Ayvalık (Turkish:[ˈajvaɫɯk]) is a municipality anddistrict ofBalıkesir Province,Turkey.[2] Its area is 305 km2,[3] and its population is 75,126 (2024).[1] It is a seaside town on the northwesternAegean coast ofTurkey. The town centre is connected toCunda Island by a causeway and is surrounded by thearchipelago ofAyvalık Islands, which face the nearbyGreek island ofLesbos.
Under the Ottomans Ayvalık had a flourishing olive-oil-production industry and the chimneys of the old factories can still be seen about town. In modern times production has revived in a smaller-scale boutique format.
Dailyferries operate between Ayvalık andMytilene on nearbyLesbos Island,Greece, during the summer with a reduced service in winter.
The nearest airport to Ayvalık isBalıkesir Koca Seyit Airport (EDO) nearEdremit.
Kydonies (Ancient Greek:Κυδωνίες) was an ancient Aeolian Greek port-town. Its name was changed to Ayvalık ('Quince orchard')[4] in the Ottoman era. Before 1923 the town was predominantly Greek, and although theTurks used its Turkish name, the Greeks used both the old nameKydonies and the new one Hellenised toAivali (Αϊβαλί). The Greeks knew Cunda Island asMoschonisia (literally "The Perfumed Islands") while the Turks called it Alibey Island (Alibey Adası).[citation needed]
Ayvalık is the southernmost district of Balıkesir province and lies betweenEdremit Gulf andDikili Gulf of theAegean Sea. Its centre is situated on a narrow coastal plain surrounded by low hills to the east which are covered withpine andolive trees. Ayvalık is surrounded by thearchipelago of theAyvalık Islands (the largest of which isCunda Island) in the west, and by a narrow peninsula in the south named the Hakkıbey Peninsula.
South of Ayvalık areAltınova andKüçükköy/Sarımsaklı which have long pristine beaches. To the north areGömeç,Burhaniye andEdremit.Dikili district ofİzmir Province is to the south of Ayvalık. To the east of Ayvalık liesBergama, with the remains of ancientPergamon.
The Greek island ofLesbos is west of Ayvalık and connected to it by ferry.
The town has ahot-summer Mediterranean climate (Köppen:Csa) with mild, rainy winters and hot, dry summers.
| Climate data for Ayvalık (1991–2020) | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 11.8 (53.2) | 12.9 (55.2) | 15.7 (60.3) | 20.0 (68.0) | 25.4 (77.7) | 30.3 (86.5) | 33.0 (91.4) | 33.0 (91.4) | 28.4 (83.1) | 23.1 (73.6) | 17.7 (63.9) | 13.3 (55.9) | 22.1 (71.8) |
| Daily mean °C (°F) | 7.9 (46.2) | 8.7 (47.7) | 11.1 (52.0) | 14.9 (58.8) | 19.9 (67.8) | 24.7 (76.5) | 27.3 (81.1) | 27.3 (81.1) | 22.9 (73.2) | 18.2 (64.8) | 13.3 (55.9) | 9.5 (49.1) | 17.2 (63.0) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 4.7 (40.5) | 5.2 (41.4) | 7.0 (44.6) | 10.4 (50.7) | 14.8 (58.6) | 19.3 (66.7) | 22.0 (71.6) | 22.3 (72.1) | 18.2 (64.8) | 14.1 (57.4) | 9.7 (49.5) | 6.4 (43.5) | 12.9 (55.2) |
| Averageprecipitation mm (inches) | 101.8 (4.01) | 99.51 (3.92) | 60.27 (2.37) | 45.97 (1.81) | 25.67 (1.01) | 13.96 (0.55) | 2.68 (0.11) | 2.89 (0.11) | 20.07 (0.79) | 64.76 (2.55) | 102.86 (4.05) | 114.8 (4.52) | 655.24 (25.80) |
| Average precipitation days(≥ 1.0 mm) | 8.1 | 7.6 | 6.4 | 5.2 | 3.6 | 2.1 | 1.8 | 1.0 | 2.7 | 4.1 | 6.7 | 9.2 | 58.5 |
| Averagerelative humidity (%) | 75.7 | 74.5 | 71.8 | 69.2 | 65.7 | 60.7 | 57.6 | 58.8 | 64.6 | 71.9 | 75.9 | 76.5 | 68.5 |
| Mean monthlysunshine hours | 102.6 | 122.7 | 185.9 | 231.6 | 296.9 | 345.0 | 379.1 | 356.9 | 276.4 | 199.6 | 126.8 | 85.9 | 2,709.2 |
| Source:NOAA[5] | |||||||||||||
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Archeological studies in the region have shown that Ayvalık and its environs were inhabited in theprehistoric era. Joseph Thacher Clarke believed that he had identified Ayvalık as the site ofKisthene, which was mentioned byStrabo as a ruinous place beside a harbour beyond Cape Pyrrha.[6] However, Engin Beksaç ofTrakya University preferred to site Kisthene at Kız Çiftlik, near the centre ofGömeç.
In his survey of the prehistoric and protohistoric settlements on the southern side of the Gulf of Adramytteion (Edremit) carried out in the 1990s and early 2000s, Beksaç studied the Ayvalık region. The survey identified several different settlements near the centre of Ayvalık which appear to relate to the Early Classical period.[citation needed] However, some settlements near the centre of Altınova were related to the prehistoric period, especially the Bronze and Iron Ages.[dubious –discuss]Kortukaya was identified in the survey as one of the most important settlements in the area and one that aids in the understanding of the interaction between the peoples of the interior and of the coast. The same is true of Yeni Yeldeğirmeni, another settlement near the centre of Altınova.
Beksaç identified traces of a hill fort on Çıplak Island (Chalkys). Some Late Bronze Age and Early Iron Age pottery fragments related to theAeolians were also found here. Two tiny settlements, near the centre of Ayvalık, formed part of theperaia ofMytilene.
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Pordoselene, on the eastern side ofCunda Island, near the sea, was another important settlement in Antiquity. All the archaeological data was related to the Classical and Medieval Ages.
During the Byzantine period, the constant threat posed by Arab and Turkishpiracy prevented the islet settlements from growing larger. Only Cunda Island could maintain a higher level of habitation as it is the largest and the closest islet to the mainland.
After theByzantine period, the region came under the rule of theAnatolian beylik ofKarasi in the 13th century. Later it was annexed to the territory of theOttomanbeylik (principality), which would become theOttoman Empire.
In 1770 the Ottoman navy suffered a major defeat against the Russians at Çeşme. The Ottoman admiralCezayirli Gazi Hasan Pasha and the men who survived the disaster were lodged on their way back to the capitalConstantinople by an Ayvalık priest. Hasan Pasha did not forget the kindness shown to his sailors in their hour of need, and when he becameGrand Vizier, he granted virtual autonomy to the Greeks of Ayvalık in 1773, paving the way for it to become an important centre of cultures for that community during the late 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries. Until 1922 Ayvalık remained an almost entirely Greek settlement.
The then British Ambassador Lord Strangford reported that Osman Pasha accepted the submission of the Aivaliotes, until he could get fresh instructions from Constantinople. However a squadron of Greek insurgents appeared, persuading the inhabitants to hope that it had come to their rescue, and that another revolt might meet with greater success. They accordingly rose en masse, and about fifteen hundred Turks were killed. But the appearance of the squadron turned out to have been merely accidental and it soon sailed away. The Turks then recovered their courage, and an indiscriminate massacre of the Greeks followed.[citation needed]
In 1891, there were 21,666 Greeks and 180 Turks living in the town of Ayvalık.[7]
As of 1920, Ayvalık's population was estimated at 60,000.[8] Its small port was used to exportsoap, olive oil, animal hides andflour.[8] The British described Aivali (Ayvalık) and nearby Edremid (Edremit) as having the finestolive oil in Asia Minor[8] and reported large exports of it toFrance andItaly.[8] This industry suffered during theFirst World War due to the deportation of the local Christian population (some of whom fled to the nearby Greek islands), who were the main producers of olive oil.[8] Alarmed at the decline of the industry, the Turkish government brought back 4,500 Greek families in order to resume olive oil production.[8] But although these repatriated Greeks were paid wages, they were not allowed to live in their own homes and were kept under official surveillance[8]
On 29 May 1919 the town was occupied by theGreek Army, only to be reoccupied by the Turkish forces under the command ofMustafa Kemal Atatürk on 15 September 1922. Some of the population managed to escape toGreece. However, many of the local men were seized by theTurkish Army and died ondeath marches into the interior ofAnatolia. Among the victims were the Christian clergy and the local metropolitan bishop,Gregory Orologas, as well as the novelistElias Venezis, who was one of the few to survive and wrote about his experience in his bookNumber 31328.[9][10]
Following theTurkish War of Independence, the Greek population and their properties in the town were exchanged for aMuslim population fromGreece, and other formerly held Ottoman Turkish lands, under the 1923 agreement for theExchange of populations between Greece and Turkey. Most of the new population consisted ofGreek Muslims fromMytilene (Lesbos),Crete andMacedonia, while the surviving Greeks of Ayvalik settled inLesbos andAigaleo, Greece. Until recently Greek could still be heard being spoken in the streets. Many of the town's older mosques are Greek Orthodox churches that have been given a new use.
Today, the population of Ayvalık is close to 80,000, which significantly increases during the summer due to tourism. Ayvalık and its environs are famous for high qualityolive oil production, which provides an important source of income for the local population.[11] Ayvalık and thenumerous islets encircling the bay area are popular holiday resorts. The largest and most important of these islets isCunda Island (Alibey Island) which is connected to Lale Island, and thence to the mainland, by abridge andcauseway built in the late 1960s. This was the first bridge in Turkey to connect lands separated by astrait. Both Ayvalık and Cunda Island are famous for theirseafood restaurants which line the seashore.
Ayvalık also has two of the longest sandybeaches –Sarımsaklı andAltınova beaches – in Turkey which extend as far as theDikili district ofİzmir nearly 30 km (19 mi) to the south. In recent years, Ayvalık has also become increasingly attractive toscuba divers.
Ayvalık International Music Academy (AIMA) was established in September 1998.[12] Students receive master-instructed classes forviolin,viola andcello.[12]
USA-basedHarvard University and Turkey'sKoç University run a Harvard-Koç University Intensive Ottoman & Turkish Summer School on Cunda Island every summer.[13][14]
Ayvalık is also a member of theNorwich-based European Association of Historic Towns and Regions (EAHTR).[15]
There are 34neighbourhoods in Ayvalık District:[16]
Both Ayvalık and Cunda have a rich heritage of old stone houses built by the lost Greek population and still often called collectivelyRum Evleri (Greek Houses). There are also a number of large and imposing Greek Orthodox churches, some of which have been converted into mosques. In the centre of town theAyios Yannis Kilise became the Saatlı Cami (Clock Mosque) whileAyios Yorgis became the Çınarlı Cami (Plane Tree Mosque). TheTaksiyarhis Kilise (Church of the Archangels) is now a museum. TheFaneromanı (Ayazma) Kilise is derelict.[17]
On Cunda there is another fineTaksiyarhis Kilise (Church of the Archangels) which was very obviously once at the very heart of the local community.
Cunda Island has a number ofmeyhanes with a very Greek feel to them as well as theTaş Kahve (Stone Teahouse) overlooking the harbour. In the back streets of Ayvalık theŞeytanın Kahvesi (Devil's Teahouse) is similarly Greek in atmosphere. It featured in a Turkish TV series calledİki Yaka Bir İsmail (Two Continents, One İsmail).[17]
Both Ayvalık itself and Cunda Island have attractive fishing harbours full of colourful boats. A few restaurants sell thepapalina (whitebait) which is a local speciality.[18]
The ruins of three important ancient cities lie within a short drive of Ayvalık:Assos andTroy are to the north, whilePergamon (modernBergama) is to the east.Mount Ida (Turkish:Kaz Dağı), which played an important role inancientGreek mythology and folk tales, is also near Ayvalık (to the north) and can be seen from many points in and around the town centre.
TheGulf of Edremit and the coastal resort towns ofDikili (near ancientAtarneus) andFoça (ancientPhocaea) are also within driving distance for daily excursions.
Ayvalık is said to have had millennia of experience[19] in olive cultivation and now has over 2.5 million trees covering 13,200 hectares (33,000 acres) or 41.3% of the region. Hundreds of these trees are over 500 years old. Commercial production began in the 1950s and became prominent in the 1960s.[20] The area is now the second largest producer of olives in Turkey.
TheAyvalık olive (24% and a good pollinator) is among the ten main cultivars in Turkey. 80% of the fruit is processed for oil, 20% for table olives,. The others areÇekiste (26% yield with 1,300,000 trees),Çelebi (400, 000 trees and a 20% yield ),Domat,Erkence (25% yield and good pollinator with 3,000,000 trees),Gemlik (29% yield and a good pollinator),Izmir Sofralik (20% yield),Memecik,Memeli (20% yield and a good pollinator), andUslu (900 000 trees).[21]
bishop ayvalik turkish 1922.
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