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Assamese cuisine

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Culinary tradition
A spread representing Assamese cuisine. It shows sauteed greens,khar, fish, pork,pitika and thekaji lemon wedge, in traditional bell metal utensils. There is no sweet dessert and the meal ends withbetel nut chewing.
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Indian cuisine
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Part ofa series on the
Culture of Assam

Assamese cuisine is the cuisine of theIndian state ofAssam. It is a style of cooking that is a confluence of cooking habits of the hills that favourfermentation anddrying as forms of preservation[4] and those from the plains that provide extremely wide variety of fresh vegetables and greens, and an abundance of fish and meat. Both are centred on the main ingredient — rice.

Assamese cuisine is a mixture of different indigenous styles with considerable regional variations and some external influences. It is characterized by very little use of spices and strong flavor due to the use of endemic exotic fruits and vegetables that are either fresh, dried or fermented.

Fish is widely used, and birds likeduck, pigeon,squab, etc. are very popular, which are often paired with a main vegetable or ingredient;beef used to be eaten before Britishcolonialism,[5] and now Muslim communities continue to do so.[6]

Preparations are rarely elaborate. The practice ofbhuna, the gentle frying of spices before the addition of the main ingredients so common in Indian cooking, is absent in the cuisine of Assam.[7] The preferred oil for cooking is the pungent mustard oil.

Kosu xaak aru madhuxuleng (Colocasia with Polygonum microcephalum)

A traditional meal in Assam begins with akhar, a class of dishes named after the main ingredient. Another very common dish istenga, a sour dish. Traditionally, bothkhar andtenga are not eaten together in the same meal, though it has become common lately. The food is usually served inbell metal utensils made by an indigenous community calledMariya/Moria.Tamul (betel nut, raw or fermented) andpaan generally conclude the meal.

Though still obscure, this cuisine has seen wider notice in recent times.[8] The discovery of this cuisine in the popular media continues, with the presenters yet to settle on the language and the specific distinctiveness to describe it.[9]

Ingredients

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Rice

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Rice is the most important ingredient in this cuisine. The diversity of rice grown in the region has led to speculation that the grain was first domesticated in the Assam-Yunnan region. Both theindica as well as thejaponica varieties are grown in Assam. The most popular class of rice is thejoha or scented rice. As a staple, rice is eaten either steam boiled (ukhua) or sundried (aaroi). Some very high quality rice varieties,Karaballam orkauribadam etc., are available in Assam only.

Rice is eaten as a snack in many forms: roasted and ground (xandoh), boiled in its husk and flattened (chira), puffed (akhoi).Kumol saul is rice that is precooked, dried and then husked; it can be simply soaked in warm water and eaten as a light meal.

Rice is a part of all meals in Assam. A traditional breakfast consists ofchira withyogurt andjaggery. Typically, farmers eat cooked rice soaked overnight (poita) simply accompanied with salt,mustard oil,onions, etc. Snacks arexandoh,kumol saul orboka saul, sticky rice or bora saul, which can be eaten with sweet or salty accompaniments. For other major meals, rice could be boiled, steamed, or wrapped in leaves and roasted. 'Sunga Saul' is a special preparation in which (sticky) rice (bora saul) is cooked in bamboo hollows called 'sunga'. 'Sewa diya Bhaat' is another preparation where sticky rice is steamed over boiling water. They are generally served with meat or fish. Sticky rice is also wrapped in leaves, usually plantain leaves ortora pat, and dropped into boiling water to prepare 'tupula bhat'.

A special class of rice preparations, calledpithas are generally made only on special occasions like theBihu. Made usually with soaked and ground glutinous rice (bora saul), they could be fried in oil with asesame filling (xutuli pitha), roasted in young green bamboo over a slow fire (sunga pitha) or baked and rolled over a hot plate with a filling (kholasaporia pitha).

Fish

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Masor tenga

The next most important ingredient is fish, harvested from the many rivers, ponds and lakes in the region. The extremely wet climate and the large numbers of water bodies has ensured that large varieties of freshwater fish are available in abundance in the valley. It is a staple item in Assamese cuisine. There is no traditional ethnic community in Assam that does not eat fish. Most traditional rural households have their own ponds forpisciculture. Some of the most popular big fishes are theborali (freshwater dhark),rou, andcital (big),khoria (medium) (Chitala chitala),maagur,xingi,borali,bhokua orbahu,xal, andxoul. Small varieties of fish available and eaten in Assam includeputhi (swamp barb),ari (long-whiskered catfish),goroi (green snake head/spotted snake head),kawoi (climbing perch;Anabas testudineus),kholihona (Indian paradise fish;Ctenops nobilis)borolia,mua,seniputhi,tengera,lasin,bhangun, andpabho.[10][11]

Puthi maas (swamp barb)

Themas tenga (sour fish), which is commonly eaten by most communities of Assam, has lately become a signature dish of Assamese cuisine. The most popular souring agent for thetenga istomatoes, though ones made withkajinemu juice (thick skinned elongatedlemon) andthekera (driedmangosteen), Ou-tenga, teteli,kordoi tenga (south-east Asian starfruit), andtengamora(roselle leaves) are also popular.

The most common way of eating fish in traditional Assamese homes is by preparing a stew with herbs, vegetables, and greens as per preference and availability. Fish is also prepared by roasting or char-grilling. A common favourite dish is a small fish roasted in banana leaves (paatotdia).Hukoti is a special fish dish prepared from dried small fish like (puthi maas) pounded with arum stem and dried and stored in bamboo tubes. Variations of this exist among the ethnic communities of northeast India in general and Assam in particular. Dried and fermented small fishputhy mas (Ticto barb), three to four in number, are roasted with lavish amounts of green chilis, tomatoes,ginger andgarlic (all roasted). The ingredients are then pounded in a mortar to make a coarse paste and served with rice. Fish eggs and innards are also cooked and consumed. Petu bhoja (fried fish intestines) is also considered a delicacy along with the traditional Assamese Jal, which is an herbal fish curry made with medicinal herbs like bhedailota (Chinese fever vine), noroxingho (curry leaves), bon dhunia, man dhunia, manimuni (Asiatic Pennywort), tengesi leaves, and more. It is known for its rich flavour and medicinal and antioxidant qualities.

Meat

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The Assamese meat and fish dishes are characterized by a low amount of spices and oil, higher quantity of ginger, noroxinghow paat (curry leaves), Khorisa (fermented bamboo shoot) and lemon juice, and differ completely in taste from the dishes of neighboring Bengal and are quite similar to the cuisines of nearby South-East Asian and East Asian countries.Chicken,venison,squab,mutton,duck andpork is very popular among the indigenous ethnic Assamese communities likeSonowals,Bodo,Rabha,Keot (Kaibarta),Ahom, Moran,Sutiya etc. Upper caste Assamese Hindus, such asAssamese Brahmins (including Ganaks) andKayasthas of Assam,Kalitas of Lower Assam refrain from pork consumption.Beef is occasionally consumed byAssamese Muslims, although they traditionally refrain from consuming pork. TheChristians, many indigenous Assamese communities, and thenon religious sections consume all types of meat.

The basic cooking methods include cooking, shallow and deep frying.Onla, of theBodos, is made with ground rice and specialherbs and constitutes a complete meal in itself. Other meats includesquab,duck,chicken,goat meat,venison, andturtle althoughvenison andturtle meat are legally prohibited. The combination ofduck/white gourd andsquab/papaya orbanana flower is very popular. Meat is generally stewed using limited spices as well as a choice of herbs and vegetables.

Most communities of Assam are entomophagous. Various indigenous ethnic groups of certain areas partake of the silkworm, water bugs, grasshoppers, and other insects. Insects are fried or cooked or roasted in leaves and then prepared according to the timing of the meal. The redant eggs (amroli poruar tup) is considered a delicacy during theRongali Bihu festival.

Green vegetables

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Main article:List of vegetables used in Assamese cuisine

The environs ofAssam are rich in vegetation, and green leafyvegetables, calledxaak, are an important part of the cuisine. Some of them are grown while others like thedhekia (fern) grows wild. There is a bewildering variety that is eaten and according to custom, one has to have 101 differentxaak (greens) duringRongali Bihu. Herbs, greens, and vegetables are commonly eaten by simply cooking in water and salt, lightly frying, as a thick soup or by adding to varieties of lentils. They are also prepared in combination with fish, meat and eggs.

Spices of Assam

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Among spices there areginger,garlic,onion,cumin seed,black cumin,black pepper,chilli,turmeric,coriander seed,cinnamon,cardamom,clove,fenugreek seed,white mustard seed,aniseed,Malabar leaf, etc. Some herbs peculiar to Assam aremaan dhaniya,moran Ada,madhuhuleng,bhedai lota,manimuni,masundari,tengesi,thekera,kordoi,outenga,tengamora':etc. An Assamese meal is incomplete without green chilis, many varieties of which are available in the region. Assam is famous for thebhut jolokia orghost pepper, which was recognized as the hottest chili in the world. Panch-furan (mixture of 5 spices) is used for adding flavour to Dail. Dail was not originally eaten by the indigenous people of Assam, but has slowly been adopted and adapted to local preferences due to external influences.

Preparations

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Although the modern cuisine of Assam has been influenced to a small extent by East and North Indian cuisine,Assam is still rich in traditional dishes which are similar to the cuisines of East Asian and South-East Asian nations.

Khar

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An Assamese 'khar'(Kharwai-a traditionalKachari tribe dish) recipe preparation with rohu fish head

The khar is a signature class of preparations made with a key ingredient, also called khar. The traditional ingredient is made by filtering water through the ashes of the sun-dried skin of a few varieties ofbanana, which is then calledkola khar (The name derived from the local term for banana, "kol" or "kola.") A traditional meal invariably begins with akhar dish, which can be prepared with rawpapaya, mustard leaves, vegetables,pulses, fish or any other main ingredient.

Xôkôta is a severely bitter type of preparation. It is prepared with dryjute leaf,urad bean andkhar. However, the combination ofkhar (alkaline) andtenga (acidic) is not recommended. The liquid khar is also simply eaten askharoli with rice which is prepared by adding a few drops of mustard oil. Assamese people have a peculiar tradition of eating a large variety of bitter dishes, many of which are considered delicacies. Some dishes in this category include,fresh bamboo shoot, cooked or lightly fried,cane shoot,Neem leaves fried,titabhekuri,bitter gourd,Xukuta,Titaphool,Sewali Phool etc.

Masor tenga

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Dhekiyaxak andoutenga

Themasor tenga is a light and sourfish dish, another signature class of preparations. There are numerous ways of preparing the sour fish curry among Assamese people. The souring ingredient could bemangosteen,lemon,tomatoes,roselle leaves, Outenga, Manimuni, Tengesi, etc. Another important ingredient is kokum.[12] Fish dishes made with fermentedbamboo shoot (khorisa) are generally sour, but they are not calledtenga. Fish is fried inmustard oil or stewed withbottle gourd orspinach or boiled simply. Anothertenga dish is prepared withmatimah (urad bean) andoutenga (elephant apple).Bottle gourd can be added to it.Tengamora (Roselle (plant)) ornoltenga (Indian chestnut vine) andlentil is a distincttengacurry.

Naraxingho masor jul

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Thenaroxingho masor jul is another authentic dish from Assam.The fishes are cooked in a light gravy of curry leaves which is a common aromatic herb used in southern and some northern parts of India. The curry leaves are also known as noro-xingho paat in Assamese. The fish preparations in Assam emphasize on retaining the natural flavours of the fish, and hence, few spices are used.

Pura

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Pura maas mankho

Pura refers to various forms of grilled and roasted food. Vegetables, meat and fish are often served in this form. Aalu bengena pura pitika, pura maas pitika (mashed grilled fish), pura mankho etc. are a few of the popular dishes.

Poitabhat

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See also:Panta bhat

Poitabhat is a favourite dish inAssam during the summer season. Cooked rice is soaked overnight and left to ferment. It is and served withmustard oil,onion,chili,pickles,pitika (mashes), etc. The 'poitabhat' preparation is sometimes made alcoholic according to preference.

Pitika - পিটিকা

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Side dishes calledpitika - পিটিকা (mashes) is a signature characteristic of this cuisine. The most popular isaloo pitika - আলু পিটিকা (mashedpotatoes) garnished with rawonions,mustard oil, greenchillies and sometimes boiled eggs.Khorisa tenga is mashed fermentedbamboo shoot, sometimes pickled inmustard oil andspices.Kharoli is fermented mashed mustard (Brassica campestris var. toria) seed to which akhar has been added, andkahudi to which an acidic agent (lemon juice, dried mangosteen) has been added.Pitikas are also made from roasted or steamed vegetables (tomatoes andeggplants being very popular). Small fish,asiatic pennywort,matikaduri,tengamora leaves,heartleaf,dôrôn (Leucas longifolia), etc. are roasted separately wrapped in banana leaves and mashed into 'pitika'.

Pickle

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Pickles are made ofmango,indian gooseberry,hog plum,Indian olive,Tamarind,star fruit,mangosteen,radish,carrot,elephant apple,Indian jujube,chili,lime,garlic, etc. Panitenga and kharoli are signature Assamese pickles made from ground mustard seeds.

Chutney and salad

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Chutney is made ofcoriander,spinach,tomato,heartleaf,curry leaf,chilli,lentil,chickpea etc.Xukan masor (chutney made ofdried fish) is popular among the tribal communities.Salad is made ofcarrot,radish,tomato,cucumber,beetroot, etc.

Bor

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'Bor' are fried balls of mashed lentil or gram — it is equivalent to vada in few other Indian languages. It may contain other green leafy vegetable locally called 'xaak' within it, and it is best while served with 'teteli' (tamarind) curry or dip. There is a huge variety of 'bora' preparations in Assamese cuisine. The base ingredients include greens, vegetables, fruits, flowers, skin, and shoots of various plants. 'Bora' can also be prepared from fish eggs etc.

Fritter

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Fritter is made of flower and tender leaves ofpumpkin, banana, tender leaves ofbottle gourd,eggplant, tender leaves ofnight-flowering jasmine, etc. It is a new style of cooking somewhat having external influences.

Some other preparations

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Panitenga

Some other preparations in Assamese cuisine includeKahudi,Panitenga,Khorikatdiya,Tenga sorsoriya,Posola, etc.

Beer

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Xaj, a type of rice beer, offered in traditional utensils

Liquor is an integral part of linguistically and culturally diverse communities in Assamaese society. Rice is a primary ingredient for the many rice beers (Nam-lao - নাম-লাও) or (Laopani/Xaaj) and liquors made in Assam by different ethnic communities:zou (Bodo),Aapong (Mishing),Rohi (ৰহি) andMod (মদ) (Sonowal Kachari),Chuje (Chutia),Nam-lao -নাম-লাও (Tai-Ahom),Haj (Tiwa),Hor (Karbi),Photika - ফটিকা (Kachari), etc.

Snacks and cakes

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Main article:Assamese Jolpan

Jolpan

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Jolpan (snacks) inAssamese are often consideredbreakfast foods, although they are not always served as breakfast in Assamese cuisine. They are eaten as light meals between main meals and widely served duringBihu,weddings, Assameseshraadhs or any other kind of special occasions and gatherings. Some types of jolpan areBora saul (varieties ofsticky rice),Komal Saul,Xandoh,Chira,Muri,Akhoi, Sunga saul, etc., eaten in combination with hot milk,curd,jaggery,yogurt or seasonal ripe fruits. These are probably some of the earliest forms of "cereals". Assamese people have been eating them mainly as breakfast for many centuries.

Pitha

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Pitha (rice cake) is a special class of rice preparation generally made only on occasions likeBhogali Bihu in Assam. Made usually with soaked and ground rice, they could be fried in oil, roasted over a slow fire or baked and rolled over a hot plate. Some pithas areTil Pitha,Ghila Pitha,Xutuli Pitha,Sunga Pitha,Bhapotdiya Pitha,Lakhimi Pitha,Tora Pitha,Tekeli Pitha,Deksi Pitha,Muthiya Pitha,Kholasapori Pitha, etc.

It is made in other areas of East and South-East Asia and has similarities with them rather than any Mainland Indian cuisine form etc.

Laru

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Larus aresweet balls that are associated with traditional Assamese food:Laskara, narikolor laru,tilor laru are often seen in Assamese cuisine.

Tea

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Tea (Saah inAssamese) is an indispensable part of Assamese cuisine. It is served in form ofBlack tea,Milk tea,Herbal tea,Spiced tea, Green Tea, Lemon tea (adding lemon juice to black tea), etc. Most of the Assamese people like to drink laal saah(red tea).

Tamul

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Main article:Areca nut

An Assamese meal is generally concluded with the chewing oftamul (Assamese:তামোল). Pieces ofbetel nut (Areca catechu) are eaten in combination with betel leaf (Piper betle), ediblelimestone andtobacco.

See Also

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Notes

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  1. ^"639 Identifier Documentation:aho – ISO 639-3".SIL International (formerly known as the Summer Institute of Linguistics). SIL International. Retrieved29 June 2019.Ahom [aho]
  2. ^"Population by Religious Communities".Census India – 2001. Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India. Retrieved1 July 2019.Census Data Finder/C Series/Population by Religious Communities
  3. ^"Population by religion community – 2011".Census of India, 2011. The Registrar General & Census Commissioner, India. Archived fromthe original on 25 August 2015.2011census/C-01/DDW00C-01 MDDS.XLS
  4. ^(Das & Deka 2012)
  5. ^"In the bookFolk Literature of Assam, Prafulla Dutta Goswami mentions that all kinds of cattle were consumed by the inhabitants of Assam much before the caste system and the colonial order had taken over." (Barman 2018)
  6. ^"Inspite of becoming Hindu, the Tai Ahoms have not given up their food habits, i.e., taking pork, beef, chicken, and rice beer." (Gogoi 2011:227)
  7. ^Babbar, PurobiQueen Bee Of Assamese CookingArchived 8 June 2007 at theWayback Machine
  8. ^Krich, John (6 July 2012)."Hot Like Fire: Asia's 5 Spiciest Cuisines 4.Assamese".Time.Time.Archived from the original on 8 April 2013. Retrieved22 January 2013.
  9. ^Janer, Zilkia (December 2012)."Assamese food and the politics of taste".Seminar (640).Archived from the original on 7 May 2013. Retrieved22 January 2013.
  10. ^Fish Species of Assam
  11. ^List of fishes in Kaziranga National Park
  12. ^"Masor Tenga Recipe: How to Make Masor Tenga Recipe | Homemade Masor Tenga Recipe".Archived from the original on 13 September 2017. Retrieved11 September 2019.

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