Aso oke, (Yoruba: Aṣọ òkè, pronouncedah-SHAW-okay), known originally asÒfì, is a hand-woven cloth that originated from theYoruba people of Yorubaland within today's Nigeria, Benin and Togo. Usually woven by men, the fabric is used to make men's gowns, calledagbada and hats, calledfila, as well as Yoruba women'swrappers calledIro and a Yoruba women's blouse called Buba and a gown called Komole, as well as ahead tie, calledgele and so on.
Aso oke is from the Yoruba culture inKwara,Kogi,Ondo,Oyo,Ogun,Ekiti,Lagos, andOsun States in western Nigeria and other parts ofYorubaland with the town ofIseyin, in oyo state historically noted as a major production hub.
The way of making the cloth has remained the same for centuries, however new techniques and production methods have been looked into to eliminate the weight and thickness of the aso oke cloth. Lighter fabrics make this garment more accessible for casual wear, as many of the locally woven aso oke were unsuitable for certain climactic conditions.[1][2]
Other ways that designers have made this old traditional cloth become more modern is to "structurally manipulate and combine animal and floral motifs into definite shapes of grids and geometry, suitable for computer design applications." The basis of more traditional motifs would have originated from fables and folklore.
Aso Oke comes in various different colours.
Aso oke fabrics can also be worn with other Yoruba fabrics, like Aran, a velvet cloth with concentric designs.
When people speak of an aso oke, they are usually referring to the traditional Yoruba women's garment, which consists of four parts:[8]
However Yoruba women's garments is made typically from different Yoruba traditional fabrics, not just Aso oke, this includesAdire,Seghosen,Aso Olona and also different types of Lace and Ankara. Also Yoruba Women garments also includesPakaja/Kaja and hairbeads.
Yorubas around the world wear aso oke fabric for special occasions,[9] including holidays, weddings,[10] funerals and chieftain title ceremonies. All followers of theYoruba religion also wear aso oke fabrics and hats. Aso oke, specifically theetu type is used in theEgungun masquerade. The represented cloth is worn closest to the masker's skin, it has a similar resemblance to a shroud in which the deceased are wrapped in.[11]
The choice of the colour used in the making of the design for different Aso-Oke is a reflection of aspects of the beliefs and life of theYoruba people and is usually passed down from one generation to another within family lines. The patterns represent forms of non-verbal communication with each design telling a story. Traditionally, the materials used in the past were locally sourced and included native cotton, silk from caterpillar cocoons, and threads dyed with indigo.[12] The fabric design tools for the weaving include the Akata (propeller), Iye (the long wheel), Akawo (short wheel), Gowu and Kikgun (rollers), Aasa (strikers), Omu (extender used in holding the reel), and Sanrin (metallic peg).[13]
The technique involves several steps, which include preparing the yarn, which in most cases is made from dyed cotton or silk, setting the loom, and then weaving the fabric. The cotton used in making Aso-oke is hand made into thread which is combined with other materials in the production.[14] for the yarn are made from natural materials such as onion skin and bark, after which the yarn is made into threads and rolled onto bobbins. After the Yarn is made, theloom is set into two frames consisting of two vertical posts and a horizontal beam. The thread from the warp, which runs vertically, is wound on the beam and threaded through small metal or wooden frames called heddles, which help control the warp thread. The threads that run horizontally (called the weft) are then woven into the fabric with the control use of a shuttle through a technique known as pick and pick, which involves alternating between the two weft threads, thereby making a pattern by so doing on thefabric.[15]