Appliqué is ornamentalneedlework in which pieces or patches of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique is accomplished either by hand stitching or machine. Appliqué is commonly practised withtextiles, but the term may be applied to similar techniques used on different materials. In the context ofceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration.
The term originates from theLatinapplicō[1] "I apply" and subsequently from theFrenchappliquer[2] "attach".
The term appliqué is derived from French and Latinverbsappliquer andapplicare, respectively, which both mean to apply or attach.[3] Like embroidery, it has a humble beginning. The technique was used as a way to strengthen worn areas of items or to patch holes that had formed. Early appliqué was used to lengthen the life of clothing and moved into artful techniques that can be seen inblankets andquilts from numerous cultures from all over the world.[4][5]
Archaeologists have discovered ancient examples of appliquéd leather inEgypt (980 BCE), and leather and felt appliqués have been found on carpets, wall hangings and saddle covers in 4th century BCE tombs inSiberia andMongolia.[6]Appliquéd cloth is an important art form inBenin,West Africa, particularly in the area aroundAbomey, where it has been a tradition since the 18th century and the kingdom ofDanhomè.There are folk traditions to embellish garments with leather appliqué inScandinavia, Russia and Eastern Europe, and leather appliqué is also found inGujarat, India, Pakistan and Morocco where men's clothing and leather slippers are decorated with embroidery and leather appliqué.Felt appliqué is used to add embellishments to women'saprons in Eastern Europe and decorative uses of felt appliqué are also seen among the nomadic tribes of Central Asia to decorateyurts, floor covering and bags.Reverse applique is used on theMola textiles of South America.
In the context of sewing, an appliqué refers to aneedlework technique in which patterns or representational scenes are created by the attachment of smaller pieces offabric to a larger piece of contrasting colour or texture.[7][8] Good textiles for appliqué are durable and don't easily fray, likefelt andleather.[9]
Applied pieces usually have their edges folded under, and are then attached by any of the following:
Appliqué is used extensively inquilting. "Dresden Plate" and "Sunbonnet Sue" are two examples of traditionalAmericanquiltblocks that are constructed with bothpatchwork and appliqué.Baltimore album quilts,Broderie perse,Hawaiian quilts,Amish quilts, EgyptianKhayamiya,tivaevae, theralli quilts ofIndia andPakistan also use appliqué.
It is particularly suitable for work which is to be seen from a distance, such as inbanner-making. A famous example of appliqué is theHastings Embroidery.[citation needed]
A lace-on-lace applique seam can be used to join edges of lace. Motifs in the design of the lace are overlapped and fastened down with awhipstitch.[10]
Modern consumerembroidery machines quickly stitch appliqué designs by following a program. The programs have a machine stops during stitching to allow the user to switch threads. First, the fabric that will be the background and the appliqué fabric are affixed into the machine's embroidery hoop. The program is run and the machine makes a loosebasting stitch over both layers of fabric. Next, the machine halts for a thread change, or other pre-programmed break. The user then cuts away the excess appliqué fabric from around the basting stitch. Following this, the machine continues on programme, automatically sewing the satin stitches and any decorative stitching over the appliqué for best results.
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