Andrzej Zawada (bornMaria Andrzej Zawada; 16 July 1928 – 21 August 2000) was a Polishmountaineer, expedition leader and pioneer ofwinterHimalayism. Zawada was an organiser and leader of numerous high-mountains expeditions, author of movies and photographs from expeditions, and co-author of Alpinist books. He was an honorary member of the BritishAlpine Club, FrenchGroupe de Haute Montagne [fr] andThe Explorers Club in the United States.
Zawada studied physics and geophysics inWrocław and Warsaw where he received a degree inseismology. From 1955–1993 he worked at the Institute of Geophysics of thePolish Academy of Sciences.
In 1956 the geophysicist Roman Teisseyre asked Zawada to join him on a Polish scientific expedition toVietnam, as part of theInternational Geophysical Year (1957–58). The team also includedKrzysztof Haman, Zawada acted as the expedition's film-maker.[1] That led to an invitation to join the Polish Research Expedition toSpitsbergen, 1957-1958 which was based at the newly establishedPolish Polar Station, Hornsund.[2]
In 1959, he was part of the expedition team withKazimierz Olech who made the first successful winter crossing of the main ridge ofTatra Mountains, which took 19 days.
In 1971, as chief he led the Polish expedition to make the first ascent to theKhunyang Chhish (7,852 m, 25,761 ft) in theKarakoram. He also reached the summit.[3]
WithTadeusz Piotrowski he made the first winter ascent ofNoshaq (7,492 m, 24,580 ft) in theHindu Kush (13 February 1973). It was the world's first winter climb above 7,000 metres (23,000 ft).
On 25 December 1974, Zawada became the first man in the world to exceed a height of 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) in the winter, alongsideZygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, by reaching a height of 8,250 metres (27,070 ft) onLhotse.[4]
In 1977, Zawada made the first crossing of the 1,600-metre (5,200 ft) north wall ofKoh-i Mandaras (6,631 m, 21,755 ft).
In February 1985Maciej Berbeka andMaciej Pawlikowski made the first winter ascent ofCho Oyu. It is the only winter ascent on an eight-thousander using a new route. Zawada led the expedition.[9]
On December 31, 1988 Zawada led the expedition whereKrzysztof Wielicki made the first successful winter ascent ofLhotse.[10]
Józef, Nyka (August 2000)."Andrzej Zawada "Lider"".Miesięcznik Ludzi Gór "Góry i Alpinizm" (in Polish). Archived fromthe original on 2007-09-27. Retrieved2007-11-27.
