Ancient Rome played a pivotal role in thehistory ofwine. The earliest influences on theviticulture of theItalian Peninsula can be traced toancient Greeks and theEtruscans. The rise of theRoman Empire saw both technological advances in and burgeoning awareness ofwinemaking, which spread to all parts of the empire.Rome's influence has had a profound effect on the histories of today's major winemaking regions inFrance,Germany,Italy,Portugal andSpain.

The Roman belief that wine was a daily necessity made the drink "democratic" and ubiquitous; in various qualities, it was available to slaves, peasants andaristocrats, men and women alike. To ensure the steady supply of wine to Roman soldiers and colonists, viticulture and wine production spread to every part of the empire. The economic opportunities presented by trading in wine drew merchants to do business with tribes native toGaul andGermania, bringing Roman influences to these regions even before the arrival of the Roman military.^[1] Evidence of this trade and the far-reaching ancient wine economy is most often found throughamphorae – ceramic jars used to store and transport wine and other commodities.^[2]

The works of Roman writers – most notablyCato,Columella,Horace,Catullus,Palladius,Pliny,Varro andVirgil – have provided insight into the role played by wine inRoman culture as well as contemporary understanding of winemaking and viticultural practices.^[3] Many of the techniques and principles first developed in ancient Roman times can be found in modern winemaking.^[4]

The beginnings of domestic viticulture and winemaking on the Italian Peninsula are uncertain. It is possible that theMycenaean Greeks had some influences through early settlements in southern Italy, but the earliest evidence of Greek influence dates to 800 BC. Before this, viticulture was widely entrenched in Etruscan civilization, which was centered around the modern winemaking region ofTuscany.

Theancient Greeks saw wine as a staple of domestic life and a useful trade commodity. Their colonies were encouraged to plant vineyards for local use and trade with Greekcity-states. Southern Italy's abundance ofindigenous vines provided an ideal opportunity for wine production, giving rise to the Greek name for the region:Oenotria ("land of vines").^[5] The southern Greek colonies probably also brought their own wine pressing methods with them and influenced Italian production methods.^[6]

In theRepublican era, the culture of Roman winemaking was influenced by the viticultural skills and techniques of allies, and of regions conquered in Rome's expansion.^[7] The Greek settlements of southern Italy were brought under Roman control by 270 BC. The Etruscans, who had long-established, mostly maritime trade routes into Gaul, were largely Romanised by the 1st century BC.

ThePunic Wars withCarthage had a particularly marked effect on Roman viticulture. The Carthaginians practised advanced viticultural techniques, described in the work of the Carthaginian writerMago. Rome ransacked and burned the libraries of Carthage but the 26 volumes of Mago's agricultural treatise survived intact. They were subsequently translated intoLatin andGreek in 146 BC. Although this work did not survive to the modern era, it has been extensively quoted in the influential writings of Romans Pliny, Columella, Varro andGargilius Martialis.^[5]

For most of Rome's winemaking history,Greek wine was the most highly prized, with domestic Roman wine commanding lower prices. The 2nd century BC saw the dawn of the "golden age" of Roman winemaking and the development ofgrand cru vineyards. The famousvintage of 121 BC became known as the Opimian vintage, named forconsulLucius Opimius. Remarkable for its abundantharvest and the unusually high quality of wine produced, some of the vintage's best examples were being enjoyed over a century later.

Pliny the Elder wrote extensively about the first growths of Rome—most notablyFalernian,Alban andCaecuban wines. Other first-growth vineyards included Rhaeticum andHadrianum fromAtri of the Adriatic,^[8] along thePo in what are now the modern-day regions ofLombardy andVenice respectively; Praetutium (not related to the modern Italian city ofTeramo, historically known as Praetutium) along theAdriatic coast near the border ofEmilia-Romagna andMarche; and Lunense in modern-dayTuscany. Around Rome itself were the estates of Alban, Sabinum, Tiburtinum, Setinum and Signinum. Southward toNaples were the estates of Caecuban, Falernian, Caulinum, Trebellicanum, Massicum, Gauranium, and Surrentinum. InSicily was the first-growth estate of Mamertinum.^[5]

Modern estimates of Roman wine consumption vary. All classes drank it, but not the very young. Women seem to have consumed less wine than men. Wine was almost always diluted before drinking, by as much as an equal volume of water, except for the elderly, libations to the gods, and alcoholics. Phillips estimates that on average, each member of Rome's urban population (man, woman or child) consumed half a litre of undiluted wine daily.^[1] Tchernia and Van Limbergen estimate the same average consumption levelsper diem, per capita throughout the Greco-Roman world.^[9]

One of the most important wine centres of the Roman world was the city ofPompeii, located south of Naples, on theCampanian coast. An expanse of farms and vineyards covered the slopes of nearby Vesuvius, exploiting its exceptionally fertile soil to produce some of the best wines available to the Italian mainland, Rome and the Provinces.

The Pompeians themselves developed a widespread reputation for their wine-drinking capacity. The worship ofBacchus, the Romangod of wine, is attested by his image onfrescoes and archaeological fragments throughout the region.Amphoras stamped with the emblems of Pompeian merchants have been found across the modern-day remnants of the Roman empire, includingBordeaux,Narbonne,Toulouse andSpain. Evidence in the form of counterfeit stamps onamphoras of non-Pompeian wine suggests that the popularity and reputation of Pompeian wine may have given rise to earlywine fraud.^[10]

The 79 AD eruption ofMount Vesuvius had a devastating effect on Campana's well-established, long-distance maritime export and trade. Ports, vineyards, and the warehouses that stored the 78 AD vintage were destroyed. Prices rose sharply, making wine unaffordable to all but the most affluent, at a time when wine-drinking habits and demand had percolated down to the less affluent majority. The wine shortage, and the potential for increased profits, led to the hurried planting of new vineyards nearer to Rome and the replanting of existinggrain fields with grapevines.^[11]

The subsequent wine surplus created by successful efforts to relieve the wine shortage caused a depression in price, and in the medium term, damage to the interests of wine producers and traders. The loss of grain fields now contributed to a food shortage for the growing Roman population. In 92 AD,Roman EmperorDomitian issued anedict that not only banned new vineyards in Rome but ordered the uprooting of half of the vineyards in Roman wine-producing provinces.

Although there is evidence to suggest that this edict was largely ignored in the Roman provinces, wine historians have debated the effect of the edict on the infant wine industries ofSpain andGaul. The intent of the edict was that fewer vineyards would result in only enough wine for domestic consumption, with little or no surplus for foreign trade. While vineyards were already established in these growing wine regions, the ignoring of trade considerations may have suppressed the spread of viticulture and winemaking in these areas. Domitian's edict remained in effect for nearly two centuries until EmperorProbus repealed it in 280 AD.^[10]

The preservation of Pompeii has provided unique insights into Roman wine making and viticulture.^[6][3] Preserved vine roots reveal planting patterns. Whole vineyards have been excavated within the city walls (for example, at Pompei's former cattle-market, the Forum Boarium). This complements evidence of pressing and production technologies that worked in tandem with this cultivation.^[6] Some of these vineyards have been replanted in the modern era with ancient grape varieties and experimental archaeology used to recreate Roman wine.^[12][13]

Among the lasting legacies of the ancient Roman empire were the viticultural foundations laid by the Romans in lands that would become world-renownedwine regions. Throughtrade,military campaigns andsettlements, Romans brought with them a taste for wine and the impetus to plant vines. Trade was the first and farthest-reaching arm of their influence, and Roman wine merchants were eager to trade with enemy and ally alike—from the Carthaginians and peoples of southern Spain to theCeltic tribes in Gaul andGermanic tribes of theRhine andDanube.

During theGallic Wars, whenJulius Caesar brought his troops toCabyllona in 59 BC, he found two Roman wine merchants already established in business trading with the local tribes. In places likeBordeaux,Mainz,Trier andColchester whereRoman garrisons were established, vineyards were planted to supply local need and limit the cost of long-distance trading. Roman settlements were founded and populated by retired soldiers with knowledge of Roman viticulture from their families and life before the military; vineyards were planted in their new homelands. While it is possible that the Romans imported grapevines from Italy and Greece, there is sufficient evidence to suggest that they cultivated native vines that may be the ancestors of the grapes grown in those provinces today.^[14]

As the republic grew into empire beyond the peninsula, wine's trade and market economy echoed this growth. The wine trade in Italy consisted of Rome's sale of wine abroad to settlements and provinces around the Mediterranean Sea, yet by the end of the 1st century AD, its exports had competition from the provinces, themselves exporters to Rome.^[15] The Roman market economy encouraged the provinces' exports, enhancing supply and demand.^{[clarification needed][16]}

Rome's defeat of Carthage in the Punic Wars brought the southern and coastal territories of Spain under its control, but the completeconquest of theIberian Peninsula remained unaccomplished until the reign of CaesarAugustus. Roman colonization led to the development ofTarraconensis in the northern regions of Spain (including what are now themodern winemaking regions ofCatalonia, theRioja, theRibera del Duero, andGalicia) andHispania Baetica (which includes modernAndalusia)Montilla-Moriles winemaking region ofCordoba and thesherry winemaking region ofCádiz.

While the Carthaginians andPhoenicians were the first to introduce viticulture to Spain, Rome's influential wine technology and the development ofroad networks brought new economic opportunities to the region, elevating grapes from a private agricultural crop to an important component of a viable commercial enterprise. Spanish wine was in Bordeaux before the region produced its own.French historian Roger Dion has suggested that the balisca vine (common in Spain's northern provinces, particularlyRioja) was brought from Rioja to plant the first Roman vineyards of Bordeaux.^[14]

Spanish wines were frequently traded in Rome. The poetMartial described a highly regarded wine known asceretanum from Ceret (modern-dayJerez de la Frontera). Wine historianHugh Johnson believes this wine wasan early ancestor of sherry.^[14] Spanish wines penetrated more extensively than Italian wines into the Roman Empire, with amphoras from Spain discovered inAquitaine,Brittany, theLoire Valley,Normandy,Britain and theGerman frontier. The historianStrabo noted in his workGeographica that the vineyards ofBaetica were famous for their beauty. The Roman agricultural writer Columella was a native of Cádiz and was duly influenced by the region's viticulture.^[18]

In 2019, the oldestsurviving liquid wine, dating to the 1st century, was discovered in the city ofCarmona, Spain, part of Hispania Baetica, its contents were identified as a type ofSherry.^[19]

There is archaeological evidence to suggest that theCelts first cultivated the grapevine in Gaul. Grapepips have been found throughout France, pre-dating the Greeks and Romans, with some examples found nearLake Geneva dated to 10,000 BC. The extent to which the Celts and Gallic tribes produced wine is not clearly known, but the arrival of the Greeks nearMassalia in 600 BC certainly introduced new types and styles of winemaking and viticulture. The limit of Greek viticultural influence was planting in regions withMediterranean climates whereolives andfig trees would also flourish.

The Romans looked for hillside terrain in regions near a river and an important town. Their knowledge of the sciences included the tendency for cold air to flow down a hillside and to pool in frost pockets in the valley. As these are poor conditions under which to grow grapes, they were avoided in favor of sunny hillsides that could provide sufficient warmth toripen grapes, even in northerly areas. When the Romans seized Massalia in 125 BC, they pushed farther inland and westward. They founded the city of Narbonne in 118 BC (in the modern-dayLanguedoc region) along theVia Domitia, the first Roman road in Gaul. The Romans established lucrative trading relations with local tribes of Gaul, despite their potential to produce wine of their own. The Gallic tribes paid high prices for Roman wine, with a singleamphora worth the value of a slave.^[14]

From theMediterranean coast, the Romans pushed further up theRhone Valley, to areas where olives and figs were unable to grow but whereoak trees were still found. As a result of their experience in what is nownortheastern Italy, the Romans knew that regions whereQuercus ilex were found had climates warm enough to allow the full ripening of grapes. In the 1st century AD, Pliny notes that the settlement ofVienne (near what is now theCôte-Rôtie AOC) produced aresinated wine that fetched high prices in Rome. Wine historian Hanneke Wilson notes that thisRhone wine was the first trulyFrench wine to receive international acclaim.^[20]

The first mention of Roman interest in the Bordeaux region was in Strabo's report to Augustus that there were no vines down the riverTarn towardsGaronne into the region known asBurdigala. The wine for this seaport was being supplied by the "high country" region ofGaillac in theMidi-Pyrénées region. The Midi had abundant indigenous vines that the Romans cultivated, many of which are still being used to produce wine, including—Duras,Fer,Ondenc andLen de l'El. The location of Bordeaux on theGironde estuary made it an ideal seaport from which to transport wine along theAtlantic Coast and to theBritish Isles. Bordeaux soon became self-sufficient with its own vineyards to export its own wine to Roman soldiers stationed in Britain. In the 1st century AD, Pliny the Elder mentions plantings in Bordeaux, including the Balisca grape (previously known in Spain) under thesynonym of Biturica after the localBituriges tribe. Ampelographers note that corruption of the name Biturica isVidure, a French synonym ofCabernet Sauvignon, perhaps pointing to the ancestry of this vine with the Cabernet family that includes Cabernet Sauvignon,Cabernet Franc,Merlot andPetit Verdot.^[14]

Further up the Rhone, along theSaônetributary, the Romans encountered the areas that would become the modern-day wine regions ofBeaujolais, theMâconnais, theCôte Chalonnaise and theCôte d'Or. Rome's first allies among the tribes of Gaul were theAedui, whom they supported by founding the city ofAugustodunum in what is now theBurgundy wine region. While it is possible that vineyards were planted in the 1st century AD, shortly after the founding of Augustodunum, the first definitive evidence of wine production comes from an account of the visit by EmperorConstantine to the city in 312 AD.

The founding of France's other great wine regions is not as clear. The Romans' propensity for planting on hillsides has left archaeological evidence of Gallo-Roman vineyards in the chalk hillsides ofSancerre. In the 4th century, the EmperorJulian had a vineyard nearParis on the hill ofMontmartre, and a 5th-century villa in what is nowÉpernay shows the Roman influence in theChampagne region.^[21]

Although wildV. vinifera vines have existed along the Rhine since prehistory, the earliest evidence of viticulture dates to the Roman conquest and settlement of the western territories ofGermania. Agricultural tools, such as pruning knives, have been found near Roman garrison posts in Trier andCologne, but the first definitive record of wine production dates to the 370 AD work byAusonius titledMosella, wherein he described vibrant vineyards along theMosel. A native of Bordeaux, Ausonius compared the vineyards favorably to those of his homeland and seems to indicate that viticulture had long been present in this area. The reasons for planting Rhineland were to cater to the growing demand of Roman soldiers along theLimes Germanicus (German frontier) and the high costs associated with importing wine from Rome, Spain or Bordeaux. The Romans briefly considered building acanal that would link the Saône and Mosel rivers in order to facilitate waterway trading. The alternative was to drink whatTacitus described as an inferiorbeer-like beverage.^[21]

The steep hillsides along the rivers Mosel and Rhine provided an opportunity to extend the cultivation of grapes to a northerly location. A south-southwest-facing slope maximizes the amount of sunshine vines receive, with thedegree of angle allowing the vines to receive the sun's raysperpendicularly rather than at the low or diffuse angle vineyards on flatter terrain receive. Hillsides offered the added benefit of shielding vines from the cold northern winds, and the rivers' reflection offered additional warmth to aid in ripening the grapes. With the right type of grape (perhaps even an early ancestor of theGerman wine grapeRiesling), the Romans found that wine could be produced in Germania. From the Rhine, German wine would make its way downriver to theNorth Sea and to merchants in Britain, where it began to develop a good reputation.

Despite military hostilities, the neighboring Germanic tribes like theAlamanni andFranks were eager customers for German wine until a 5th-century edict forbade the sale of wine outside of Roman settlements. Wine historian Hugh Johnson believes this might have been an added incentive for thebarbarian invasions andsacking of Roman settlements such as Trier—"an invitation to break down the door."^[21]

Rome's influence onBritain with respect to wine is not so much viticultural as it is cultural. Throughout modern history, the British have played a key role in shaping the world of wine and defining global wine markets.^[22] Though evidence ofV. vinifera vines in the British Isles dates to theHoxnian Stage when the climate was warmer than it is now, British interest in wine production greatly increased following theRoman conquest of Britain in the 1st century AD.

Amphoras from Italy indicate that wine was regularly transported to Britain at great expense by sea, around the Iberian Peninsula. The development of wine-producing regions in Bordeaux and Germany made supplying the needs of local Roman colonists much easier and cheaper, but in Britain, no certain evidence of an early local or provincial wine industry has been found, possibly because climate and soil conditions have not favoured its preservation. Remnants of amphora production atBrockley Hill, inMiddlesex, have been dated to 70–100 AD, and may be explained as a sign of short-lived local wine production, brought to an end byDomitian's edict against vine cultivation during a widespread grain famine.^[23] The edict was rescinded byProbus in 270 AD. Investigations of theNene Valley and pollen analysis by Brownet al confirm several viticulture sites, at least from that date.^[24]

More than 400 artifacts depicting Bacchus have been found throughout Britain, evidence of his widespread cult as a wine-god. They include the great silver dish of theMildenhall Treasure, showing the rites of Bacchus' procession and his triumph overHercules in a drinking contest. InColchester, the earlycapital of Roman Britain, excavations have uncovered containers identifying over 60 different types of wines from Italy, Spain, the Rhine and Bordeaux.^[21]

Roman attitudes to wine were complex, especially among theequestrian andsenatorialclasses; the latter were supposed to have no interest in personal profits. Equestrian entrepreneurs often acted as agents and negotiators for landowners of the senatorial class, whose estates, large or small, were traditionally used to provide grain, olives and other food staples, not ingredients for luxuries such as wine production. Viticulture involved a very different set of skills, practices, abilities and landscapes than traditional agriculture, and a deal of expense at harvest-time, for picking, pressing and storage. The yields were notoriously unpredictable. For a large estate, a bad season's losses could be enormous, or the profits exceed what was considered proper for an aristocratic farmer-citizen. Very large wine estates were therefore quite rare, and the lowest risk investment strategy was an exchange of small, specialist properties already in production, along with the equipment, knowledge and skills that came with them, a ready-made wine estate. Considering the disinhibiting, even disabling effects of alcohol, any investment in commercial-scale wine production by Rome's ruling class was also of doubtful morality. Purcell suggests that for these reasons, Rome's upper classes were committed to refinement and high quality, and had only marginal open involvement in high volume wine production and the wine trade until the Imperial era.^[25]

Works of classical Roman writers—most notably Cato, Columella, Horace, Palladius, Pliny, Varro and Virgil—shed light on the role of wine in Roman culture as well as contemporary winemaking and viticultural practices.^[3] Some of these influential techniques can be found in modern winemaking. These include the consideration ofclimate and landscape in deciding whichgrape varieties to plant, the benefits of differenttrellising andvine-training systems, the effects ofpruning andharvest yields on the quality of wine, as well as winemaking techniques such assur lie aging afterfermentation and the maintenance of sanitary practices throughout the winemaking process to avoid contamination, impurities and spoilage.^[4]

Marcus Porcius Cato was a Roman statesman. He had been raised on his family's farm inReate, northeast of Rome, and wrote extensively on a variety of subjects inDe agri cultura (Concerning the Cultivation of the Land), the oldest surviving work of Latin prose. He comments in detail on viticulture and winemaking.^[5] He believes that grapes produce the best wine when they receive the maximum amount of sunshine, so he recommends that vines be trained in trees as high as possible and have all leaves removed once the grapes begin to ripen.^[1] He advises winemakers to wait until the grapes are fully ripe before harvesting, to ensure high quality in the wine and thus maintain the reputation of the wine estate. Inferior and sour wines should be reserved for the work-hands. Cato claimed that vineyard cultivation was the only profitable agricultural use for slaves; if they became unproductive for any reason, their rations should be cut. Once they were worn out, they should be sold on.^[26]

Cato was an early advocate for hygiene in winemaking, recommending, for example, that wine jars be wiped clean twice a day with a new broom every time; thoroughly sealing the jars after fermentation to prevent the wine from spoiling and turning into vinegar; and not filling the amphoras to the top but leaving some head space, allowing a degree ofoxidation.^[27] Cato's manual was fervently followed, becoming the standard textbook of Roman winemaking for centuries.^[5]

Columella was a 1st-century AD writer. His 12-volumeDe re rustica is considered one of the most important works onRoman agriculture. Its eleven volumes of prose are augmented by one on gardens (Volume 10), inhexameter verse. Volumes 3 and 4 delve into the technical aspects of viticulture, including advice on which soil types yield the best wine. Volume 12 concerns various aspects of winemaking.^[28]

Columella describes the boiling of grape must in alead vessel to concentrate sugars and at the same time allow the lead to impart sweetness and desirable texture to the wine,^[29] a practice that may have contributed tolead poisoning. He presents precise details on how a well-run vineyard should operate, from the optimum breakfast for slaves to the yield of grapes from eachjugerum of land and the pruning practices to ensure those yields. Many modern elements of vine training and trellising are evident in Columella's description of best practices. In his ideal vineyard, vines are planted twopaces apart and fastened withwillowwithies tochestnut stakes about the height of a man. He also describes some of the wines of Roman provinces, noting the potential of wines from Spain and the Bordeaux region. Columella extols the quality of wines made from the ancient grape varieties Balisca and Biturica, believed byampelographers to be ancestral to theCabernet family.^[30]

Pliny the Elder was a 1st-century ADnaturalist and author of the 37-volume RomanencyclopediaNaturalis Historia (Natural History), dedicated to the EmperorTitus. Published after Pliny's death near Pompeii following the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the work covers a vast array of topics, including serious discourse on viticulture and wine.

Book 14 deals exclusively with the subject of wine itself, including a ranking of the "first growths" of Rome. Book 17 includes a discussion of various viticultural techniques and an early formalization of the concept ofterroir, in that unique places produce unique wine. In his rankings of the best Roman wines, Pliny concludes that the vineyard has more influence on the resulting quality of wine than the particular vine. The early sections of Book 23 deal with some of the purported medicinal properties of wine.^[31]

Pliny was a strong advocate for training vines up trees in apergola, noting that the finest wines inCampania all derived from this practice. Due to the dangers in working on and pruning vines trained this way, however, he advised not using slaves, who were costly to buy and maintain, but rather vineyard workers hired with a stipulation in their contract to cover grave and funeral expenses. He described some contemporary varieties, recommending Aminean and Nomentan as the best. Some modernampelographers believe that two white wine varieties mentioned, Arcelaca andArgitis, may be early ancestors to the modern grape Riesling.^[30]

Pliny is also the source for one of the most famous Latin quotations about wine: "In vino veritas," or "There's truth in wine," referring to the often confessional loquacity of the intoxicated.^[32] This is not a commendation on Pliny's part: he regrets that the "excessive candour" of drunkards can lead to serious breaches of etiquette, and thoughtless disclosure of matters best kept private.^[33]

Marcus Terentius Varro, whom therhetoricianQuintilian called "the most learned man among the Romans,"^[34] wrote extensively on such topics as grammar, geography, religion, law and science, but only his agricultural treatiseDe re rustica (orRerum rusticarum libri) has survived in its entirety. While there is evidence that he borrowed some of this material from Cato's work, Varro credits the lost multi-volume work ofMago the Carthaginian, as well as the Greek writersAristotle,Theophrastus andXenophon. Varro's treatise is written as adialogue and divided into three parts, the first of which contains most of the discussion on wine and viticulture. He defines old wine as one removed from its vintage by at least a year; nonetheless, he notes that while some wines are best consumed young, especially fine wines such as Falernian are meant to be consumed much older.^[35]

The poetry ofVirgil recalls that of the Greek poetHesiod in its focus on the morality and virtue of viticulture, particularly the austerity, integrity and hard work of Roman farmers. The second book of thedidactic poemGeorgics deals with viticultural matters.^[36] Virgil advises leaving some grapes on the vine until late November when they become "stiff withfrost." This early version ofice wine would have produced sweet wines without the acidity of wine made from grapes harvested earlier.^[30]

Virgil's contemporaryHorace wrote often of wine, though no single work is devoted entirely to the subject. He espoused anEpicurean view of taking life's pleasures, including wine, inmoderation. Among the earliest recorded examples of deliberately choosing a wine for a specific occasion, Horace'sOdes included serving a wine from the birth-year vintage at a celebration of an honored guest. He writes of serving simple wines for everyday occasions and saving celebrated wines such as Caecuban for special events. Horace answered the question posed by theAlexandrian poetCallimachus as to whether water or wine was the preferred drink of poetic inspiration by enthusiastically siding withCratinus and the wine drinkers.^[37] His affinity for wine was such that while contemplating his death, he expressed more dread at the thought of departing from his beloved wine cellar than his wife.^[30]

Palladius was the 4th-century writer of the 15-volume agricultural treatiseOpus agriculturae orDe re rustica, the first volume of which was an introduction to basic farming principles. The 12 volumes following were dedicated to each month of the calendar and the specific agricultural tasks to be performed in that month. While Palladius deals with a variety of agricultural crops, he devotes more discussion to the practices of the vineyard than to any other. The last two volumes treat mostlyveterinary medicine for farm animals but also include a detailed account of late-Romangrafting practices. Though borrowing heavily from Cato, Varro, Pliny and Columella, the work of Palladius is one of the few Roman agricultural accounts to still be widely used through theMiddle Ages and into the earlyRenaissance. His writings on viticulture were widely quoted byVincent of Beauvais,Albertus Magnus andPietro Crescenzi.^[38]

The process of making wine in ancient Rome began immediately after theharvest with treading the grapes (often by foot), in a manner similar to the Frenchpigeage. The juice thus expressed was the most highly prized and kept separate from what would later come frompressing the grape.^[4][3] Thisfree-run juice was also believed to have the most beneficial medicinal properties.^[1]

Cato described the process of pressing as taking place in a special room that included an elevatedconcrete platform containing a shallow basin with raised curbs. The basin was shaped with gentle slopes that led to a runoff point. Horizontally across the basin were long, wooden beams whose front parts were attached by rope to awindlass. The crushed grapes were placed between the beams, with pressure applied by winding down the windlass. The pressed juice ran down between the beams and collected in the basin. As the construction and use of a wine press was labor-intensive and expensive, its use was generally restricted to large estates, with smaller wineries relying on treading alone to obtain grape juice.^[39]

If grape pressing was used, an estate would press the skins one to three times. Since juice from later pressings would be coarser and moretannic, the third pressing normally made wine of low quality calledlora. After pressing, the grapemust was stored in largeearthenware jars known asdolia. With a capacity of up to several thousand liters, these jars were often partially buried into the floors of a barn or warehouse.Fermentation took place in the dolium, lasting from two weeks to a month before the wine was removed and put in amphoras forstorage. Small holes drilled into the top allowed thecarbon dioxide gas to escape.^[1]

To enhance flavor, white wine might age on itslees, andchalk ormarble dust was sometimes added to reduceacidity.^[4] Wines were often exposed to high temperatures and "baked," a process similar to that used to make modernMadeira. To enhance a wine's sweetness, a portion of the wine must was boiled to concentrate the sugars in the process known asdefrutum and then added to the rest of the fermenting batch. (Columella's writings suggest that the Romans believed boiling the must acted as apreservative as well.) Lead was also sometimes used as a sweetening agent,^[5] orhoney could be added, as much as 3 kilograms (6.6 lb) recommended to sweeten 12 litres (3.2 US gal) of wine to Roman tastes. Another technique was to withhold a portion of the sweeter, unfermented must and blend it with the finished wine, a method known today assüssreserve.^[30]

As in much of the ancient world,sweet white wine was the most highly regarded style. Wine was often diluted with warm water, occasionallyseawater.^[5]

The ability to age was a desirable trait in Roman wines, with mature examples from older vintages fetching higher prices than that from the current vintage, regardless of its overall quality.Roman law codified the distinction between "old" and "new" as whether wine had aged for at least a year. Falernian was particularly valued for its aging ability, said to need at least 10 years to mature but being at its best between 15 and 20 years. The white wine from Surrentine was said to need at least 25 years.

In the manner of Greek wine, Roman wine was often flavored withherbs andspices (similar to modernvermouth andmulled wine) and was sometimes stored inresin-coated containers, giving it a flavor similar to modernretsina.^[4] Romans were particularly interested in thearoma of wine and experimented with various methods of enhancing a wine's bouquet. One technique that gained some usage in southern Gaul was planting herbs such aslavender andthyme in the vineyards, believing that their flavors would pass through the ground and into the grapes. Modern-day wines from theRhone are often characterized by using the aroma descriptors of lavender and thyme, presumably as a reflection of the grape varieties used and theterroir.^[1] Another widespread practice was the storage of amphoras in a smoke chamber called afumarium to add smokiness to a wine's flavor.Passum, or wine made from dried grapes or raisins, was also particularly popular and was produced in the eastern Mediterranean.^[3] It was widely used in ritual contexts and also found popularity in the kitchen and medicinal spheres.^[3]

The term "vinum" spanned a broad spectrum of wine-based beverages, the quality of which depended on the amount of pure grape juice used and how diluted the wine was when served.Temetum, a sacrificial grade, strong wine from the first pressing, was served undiluted, and was supposedly reserved for men of the Roman elite, and for offerings to the gods.^[40] Its name suggests an archaic Etruscan origin; in Rome's distant past,temetum might have been an alcoholic drink brewed fromRowan fruits.^[41] Well below that wasposca, a mixture of water and sour wine that had not yet turned intovinegar. Less acidic than vinegar, it still retained some of the aromas and texture of wine and was the preferred wine for the rations of Roman soldiers due to its low alcohol levels.Posca's use as soldiers' rations was codified in theCorpus Juris Civilis and amounted to around a liter per day. Still lower in quality waslora (modern-daypiquette), which was made by soaking in water for a day thepomace of grape skins already pressed twice, and then pressing a third time. Cato and Varro recommendedlora for their slaves. Bothposca andlora were the most commonly available wine for the general Roman populace and probably would have been for the most part red wines, since white wine grapes would have been reserved for the upper class.^[42]

The writings of Virgil, Pliny and Columella offer the most detail about the grape varieties used in the production of wine in the Roman empire, many of which have been lost to antiquity. While Virgil's writings often do not distinguish between a wine's name and the grape variety, he made frequent mention of the Aminean grape variety, which Pliny and Columella ranked as the best in the empire. Pliny described five sub-varieties of the grape that produced similar but distinct wines, declaring it to be native to the Italian peninsula. While he claimed that onlyDemocritus knew of every grape variety that existed, he endeavored to speak with authority on the grapes he believed were the only ones worthy of consideration.

Pliny described Nomentan as the second-best wine-producing grape, followed by Apian and its two sub-varieties, which were the preferred grape ofEtruria. The only other grapes worthy of his consideration were Greek varieties, including the Graecula grape used to makeChian wine. He remarked that the Eugenia had promise, but only if planted in theColli Albani region. Columella mentioned many of the same grapes but noted that the same grape produced varied wines in different regions and could even be known under different names, making it hard to track. He encouraged vine growers to experiment with different plantings to find the best for their areas.^[43]

Ampelographers debate these descriptions of grapes and their possible modern counterparts or descendants. The Allobrogica grape that was used to produce the Rhone wine of Vienne may have been an early ancestor of thePinot family. Alternative theories posit that it was more closely related toSyrah orMondeuse noire—two grapes that produce vastly different wines. The link between these two is the Mondeuse noire synonym of Grosse Syrah. The Rhaetic grape that Virgil praised is believed to be related to the modernRefosco of northeastern Italy.^[21]

In its early years, Rome probably imported wine as a somewhat rare and costly commodity, and its native wine-god,Liber pater, was probably a fairly minor deity. Rome's traditional history has its first king,Romulus, offer the godslibations of milk, not wine, and approve the execution of a wife whose husband caught her drinking wine.^[44] The writerAulus Gellius claims that in those earlier times, women were forbidden to drink wine, "for fear that they might lapse into some disgraceful act. For it is only a step from the intemperance ofLiber pater to the forbidden things of Venus". He cites the much respected arch-conservativeCato the elder as his source, but Cato's own writings make no mention of this.^[45][46] The claimed prohibition and the consequences of its subversion have parallels in the myths pertaining to the "Women's goddess"Bona Dea, the nature deitiesFaunus andFauna, and the founding of ancientLatium. Modern literature suggests that if there ever was such a prohibition it did not apply to wine and women in general, but to women of the elite classes and "particular types of [strong] wines" used in sacrifice, such astemetum. Women of the elite were expected to set the best possible example of female chastity and purity. Drunkenness could easily lead to adultery, but women who committed adultery could be lawfully punished by fines, loss of dowry or exile, at most.^[41][47]

Wine played a major role inancient Roman religion andRoman funerary practices, and was the preferredlibation for most deities, including one'sdeified ancestors, whose tombs were sometimes fitted with a permanent, usually stoppered "feeding tube".^[48] The invention of wine was usually credited toLiber or his Greek equivalents,Bacchus (later Romanised) andDionysus, who promoted the fertility of human and animal semen, and the "soft seed" of the vine. Ordinary, everyday, mixed wines were under the protection ofVenus, but were consideredprofane (vinum spurcum), and could therefore not be used in official sacrifice to deities of the Roman State. A sample of pure, undiluted strong wine from the first pressing was offered to Liber/Bacchus, in gratitude for his assistance in its production. The undiluted wine, known astemetum, was customarily reserved for Roman men and Roman gods, particularlyJupiter, king of the gods. It was an essential element of the secretive, nocturnal and exclusively femaleBona Dea festival, during which it was freely consumed but referred to euphemistically, as "milk" or "honey".^[49][50] Outside of this context, ordinary wine (that is, Venus' wine) tinctured with myrtle oil was thought particularly suitable for women; myrtle was sacred to Venus.^[51]

Venus' long association with wine reflects the inevitable connections between wine, intoxication and sex, expressed in the proverbial phrasesine Cerere et Baccho friget Venus (loosely translated as "without food and wine, Venus freezes"). It was employed in various forms, notably by the Roman playwright,Terence, and well into the Renaissance.^[52]

The major public festivals concerning wine production were the twoVinalia. At theVinalia prima ("first Vinalia") of 23 April, ordinary men and women sampled the previous year's vintage of ordinary wine in Venus' name, while the Roman elite offered a generous libation of wine to Jupiter, in the hope of good weather for the next year's growth.^[53] TheVinalia Rustica of 19 August, originally a rusticLatin harvest festival, celebrated the grape harvest, and the growth and fertility of all garden crops; its patron deity may have been Venus, or Jupiter, or both.^[54]

Early Roman culture was strongly influenced by the neighbouringEtruscans to the north, and theancient Greek colonists of Southern Italy (Magna Graecia) both of whom exported wine, and held viticulture in high esteem. Though Rome was still probably very "dry" by Greek standards, Roman attitudes to wine were drastically changed by the establishment and growth of empire.^[55] Wine had religious, medicinal and social roles that set it apart from other ingredients ofRoman cuisine. Wine might be watered by more than half its volume, possibly for taste or purification. Excessive drinking of undiluted wine was thought barbaric and foolish; on the other hand, undilute wine was thought to be beneficial and "warming" for old men. Throughout Rome's Republican and Imperial eras, the offering of good wine to guests at banquets was a mark of the host's generosity, wealth and prestige.^[56]

During the mid-to-later Republic, wine was increasingly treated as a necessity of everyday life rather than simply a luxury enjoyed by the elite. Cato recommended that slaves should have a weekly ration of 5 liters (over a gallon), though this should be sour or otherwise inferior wine. Should slaves become old, or sick and unproductive, Cato advised halving their rations.^[1] The widespread planting of grapevines reflects the increase in demand for wine among all classes; the expanding market for wine also reflects an overall change in Roman diets. In the 2nd century BC, Romans began to shift from meals consisting of moistporridge andgruel to those more bread-based; wine aided in eating the drier food.^[42]

The Bacchanalia were private Romanmystery cults of Bacchus, the Greco-Roman god of wine, freedom, intoxication and ecstasy. They were based on the GreekDionysia and theDionysian mysteries, and probably arrived in Rome c. 200 BC from Greek colonies in southern Italy, andEtruria, Rome's northern neighbour. They were originally occasional, women-only affairs, but became increasingly popular and frequent, and were opened to priests and initiates of both genders and all classes; they may have briefly supplanted an existing, lawful cult toLiber.^[57] Cult initiates employed music, dance and copious amounts of wine to achieve ecstaticreligious possession. The Roman Senate perceived the cult as a threat to its own authority and Romanmorality, andsuppressed it with extreme ferocity in 186. Of some seven thousand initiates and their leaders, most were put to death. Thereafter the Bacchanalia continued in much diminished form, under the supervision of Rome's religious authorities, and were probably absorbed into Liber's cult.^[58][59] Despite the ban, illicit Bacchanals persisted covertly for many years, particularly in Southern Italy, their likely place of origin.^[60]

As Rome assimilated more cultures, it encountered peoples from two religions that viewed wine in generally positive terms—Judaism andChristianity. Grapes and wine make frequent literal andallegorical appearances in both theHebrew and Christian Bibles. In theTorah, grapevines were among the first crops planted after theGreat Flood, and in exploringCanaan followingthe Exodus fromEgypt, one of the positive reports about the land was that grapevines were abundant. The Jews under Roman rule accepted wine as part of their daily life, but regarded negatively the excesses that they associated with Roman "impurities".^[61]

Many of the Jewish views on wine were adopted by the newChristian sect that emerged in the 1st century AD. One of the first miracles performed by the sect's founder,Jesus, was to have turned water into wine. In addition, the sacrament of theEucharist prominently involves wine. The Romans drew some parallels between Bacchus and Christ. Both figures possessed narratives strongly featuring the symbolism of life after death: Bacchus in the yearly harvest and dormancy of the grape; and Christ in thedeath and resurrection story. Eucharist's act of drinking wine as a stand-in for consuming Christ, eithermetaphysically ormetaphorically, echoes the rites performed in festivals dedicated to Bacchus.^[61]

The influence and importance of wine in Christianity was undeniable, and soon the Church itself would take the mantle from ancient Rome as the dominant influence in the world of wine for the centuries leading to the Renaissance.^[61]

Romans believed that wine had the power to both heal and harm. Wine was a recommended cure for mental disorders such asdepression,memory loss andgrief, as well as bodily ailments, frombloating,constipation,diarrhea,gout, andhalitosis tosnakebites,tapeworms,urinary problems andvertigo.

Cato wrote extensively on the medical uses of wine, including a recipe for alaxative: wine made from grapevines treated with a mixture of ashes,manure andhellebore. He recommended that the flowers of certain plants, e.g.juniper andmyrtle, be soaked in wine to help with snakebites and gout. He also believed that a mixture of old wine and juniper, boiled in a lead pot, could aid in urinary issues and that mixing wine with very acidicpomegranates could cure tapeworms.^[61]

The 2nd-century CEGreco-Roman physicianGalen provided several details concerning wine's medicinal use in later Roman times. InPergamon, Galen was responsible for the diet and care of thegladiators, and used wine liberally in his practice, boasting that not a single gladiator died in his care. Wine served as anantiseptic for wounds and ananalgesic for surgery. When he became EmperorMarcus Aurelius's physician, he developed pharmaceutical concoctions made from wine known astheriacs.Superstitious beliefs concerning theriacs' "miraculous" ability to protect against poisons and cure everything fromthe plague tomouth sores lasted until the 18th century. In his workDe Antidotis, Galen noted the trend in Romans' tastes from thick, sweet wines to lighter, dry wines that were easier to digest.^[30]

The Romans were also aware of the negative health effects of drinking wine, particularly the tendency towards "madness" if consumed immoderately.Lucretius warned that wine could provoke a fury in one's soul and lead to quarrels.Seneca the Elder believed that drinking wine magnified the physical and psychological defects of the drinker. Drinking wine in excess was frowned upon and those who imbibed heavily were considered dangerous to society. The Roman politicianCicero frequently labeled his rivals drunkards and a danger to Rome—most notablyMark Antony, who apparently once drank to such excess that hevomited in the Senate.^[61]

The ambivalent attitude of the Romans is summarized in an epitaph:

balnea vina Venus
corrumpunt corpora
nostra sed vitam faciunt
balnea vina Venus

"Baths, wine, andsex corrupt our bodies, but baths, wine, and sex make life worth living."

• Ancient Roman cuisine
• Ancient Greece and wine
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• Speyer wine bottle
• History of wine

• "Wine and Rome"
• "Roman Wine: A Window on an Ancient Economy"
• Emlyn K. Dodd (2020).Roman and Late Antique wine production in the eastern Mediterranean, Archaeopress.ISBN 978-1-78969-402-4

• Economy of ancient Rome
• Ancient wine
• Food in ancient Rome
• History of wine
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