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Alcalá de Henares (Spanish pronunciation:[alkaˈlaðeeˈnaɾes]ⓘ) is a Spanish municipality of theCommunity of Madrid. Housing is primarily located on the north bank of theHenares. As of 2018[update], it has a population of 193,751, making it the region's third-most populatedmunicipality.
The nameAlcalá comes from theArabic wordالقلعةal-qalʿa, in connection to the fortress ofAlcalá la Vieja [es] (Qal'at Abd'Al-Salam). The appendix ofHenares (archaicallyFenares) referring to the river, thought to be derived either from the Latinfoenarius or the Arabicen-Nahr, is recorded for the first time in 1257, as a way to differentiate the town from the Islamic fortress.[3]
Roman mosaic of the four seasons, the House of Bacchus, Complutum
Inhabited since theChalcolithic phase of theBronze Age, the territory was conquered byRomans in the 1st century BC. They built the town ofComplutum near a previousCarpetanian settlement, Iplacea. With 10,000 inhabitants, it reached the status ofmunicipium and had its own governing institutions. It played an important role, located on the Roman road connectingEmerita Augusta andCaesaraugusta.[8] In the late 5th century, Complutum declined.[9]
In Late Antiquity, population underwent ruralization and dispersion into scattered settlements beyond the ruined Roman center; those included the so-calledCampus Laudabilis (the germ of the current urban centre and where tradition claims the martyrdom of the boysJustus and Pastor took place)— and around thevilla of El Val [es]).[9][10]
After theIslamic conquest of the Iberian peninsula, the territory became part of the eastern districts of theMiddle March of Al-Andalus, primarily controlled by Berber lineages of the Banu Salim, who seemed to be, at least outwardly, loyal toUmayyad central authority.[11] The hills on the Henares' left bank were repopulated, with archaeological evidence pointing at least to the 9th century.[12] The settlement grew, from watchtower toḤiṣn [es], and then a larger citadel,Qal'at Abd'Al-Salam [es],[13] hence the name ofAlcalá. The plains (presumably with sizeableMozarab population) were however not fully abandoned during the middle ages.[14] As it emerged the pressing need to defend the Tagus line from Christian advances in the 10th century, the fortification and the surrounding urban developments (with up to two neighborhoods beyond the walls) grew in size.[15]
On 3 May 1118, the territory was conquered by theArchbishop of ToledoBernard de Sedirac at behest of theKingdom of Castile. Soon after, on 10 February 1129,[16]Alfonso VII gave Alcalá toRaymond de Sauvetât, also Archbishop of Toledo, becoming an archiepiscopal property for centuries to come.[17] Raymond granted the town an oldfuero (charter) in 1135.[18] The document acknowledged a doublet of settlements, mentioning the castle and the town.[19] Throughout the middle ages, presumably also including 11th-century Islamic Alcalá,[20] the place also had a Jewish population, protected by the Archishops of Toledo under Christian rule, whosealjama should have had a size of about 750 by 1292.[n. 1] As warfare was left behind, the population in the more fertile and better communicated plains grew in importance relative to the castle, although the right bank settlement and the whole did not preserve the Christian name of Burgo de San Justo (or that of Complutum for that matter), but took the name of Alcalá.[14]
Its central position allowed it to be a frequent residence of theKings of Castile, when travelling south. The town'smudéjar population worked in agriculture, woodwork, pottery, and craftwork.[22] From the late 14th century, they were banned from living among Christians, so from then on they resided in a ghetto.[22] Likewise, the members of the local Jewish minority were primarily employed as craftspeople, merchants, lenders, tax collectors, and in liberal professions.[22] During the 15th century, the latter was one of the largest Jewish communities in Castile, accounting for about 200 families.[23]
Cardinal Cisneros officially opened the University of Alcalá on 14 March 1500,[24] leading to a new stage of urban development that transformed the preexisting urban fabric,[25] and so Alcalá became a truecollege town with the creation of regular streets, and plenty of colleges.[26] Cisneros also granted the town a newfuero in 1509.[27] The polyglot Bible known as theComplutensian Polyglot Bible, the first of the many similar Bibles produced during the revival of Biblical studies that took place in the 16th century, was printed at Alcalá under the care of Cisneros, who also encouragedHebrew studies at theUniversity of Alcalá,[n. 2] and broughtmoriscos from Granada for the university's building works.[28]
By the mid 16th century the service-based economy (dedicated to catering to clerics and students) already gave signs of decline.[29] The last years of the century were particularly dire for Alcalá, and a 1599 plague epidemics decimated the population.[30] With bad harvests and food scarcity, the 17th century started by following a similar demographic trend, to which theexpulsion of the Moriscos in 1610 also added on.[31] Despite being largely ruined, the town acquired the status of city in 1687 after long negotiations.[32]
In decadence since the mid-18th century, Alcalá de Henares experienced a relative demographic and economic upturn in the second half of the 19th century, based on its newly acquired condition of military outpost, to which an embryonic industrial nucleus was also added.[33]
The population steadily increased from 1868 to 1939.[34] The population was still agrarian to a large extent, with high levels of illiteracy and poverty.[34] Seeking social change,Republican and later Socialist movements grew in force in the city.[34] The leading figure in the latter movement wasAntonio Fernández Quer [es], who became the first municipal councillor from theSpanish Socialist Workers' Party in the province of Madrid in 1903.[34] Emerging in reaction to Socialist advances,Social catholicism also took hold in the city from 1905, founding a number of organizations such asCentro Católico de Acción Social Popular and theMutual Obrera Complutense.[34]
Following the1936 coup d'etat that sparked theSpanish Civil War, putschist elements seized key posts around the city.[35] However, following the botched coup in Madrid, Rebel forces in Alcalá eventually surrendered to Republican ColonelIldefonso Puigdendolas and his troops on 21 July.[35] Alcalá reportedly became a Soviet power base during the conflict—a "republic within the republic" where the Republican national government held a tenuous grip.[n. 3]
Thousands of prisoners were held in different camps in the city after the end of the war.[38] From March 1939 to February 1948, at least 264 individuals were executed in Alcalá by theFrancoist authorities.[38]
Alcalá de Henares is located in the central part of theIberian Peninsula, in the southern half of theInner Plateau. It lies on the valley of theHenares, a left-bank tributary of theJarama, which is in turn a right-bank tributary of theTagus. The right (north) bank of the river (on which the current urban nucleus was built) displays a very flat relief with a series of quaternaryfluvial terraces, while the left (southern) bank features a very steep slope ofclays from themiocene,[39] rapidly rising up to themoors ofLa Alcarria.
Standing at an average altitude of 654 m, and occupying some 88 km2; the city was for a long time contained in between the Henares to the South and theMadrid-Barcelona railway to the North. However, the increasing population brought on the sprawl of the urbanised area to the area located in between the railway and theA-2 motorway and beyond.
The climate in this city of central Spain issemi-arid, with cold, dry winters and hot, dry summers. The average year-round temperature is 14 °C (57 °F). The average year-round rainfall is about 300 mm (11.8 in), mainly in spring and autumn. Temperatures vary from some degrees below 0 °C (32 °F) in December and January to some over 40 °C (104 °F) in July and August. Dry season coincides with maximum heat in summer.
The major landmark and one of the great prides of the city, its university, uses sites throughout the city, but has two main campuses. The first is on the north side of Alcalá. This campus includes most science departments and student housing (as well as its own, separateRenfestation). The second, central campus, houses most of the humanities and social-science departments, including a law school.
The architectural influence of the university can be found in other present-day academic institutions. TheUniversity of San Diego is largely based on the Spanish university; its campus and address take the name "Alcalá Park". In addition, some buildings atTexas Tech University inLubbock, Texas were modeled after the architecture of Universidad de Alcalá de Henares.[41]
In 1293 in Alcalá de Henares KingSancho IV of Castile founded theUniversidad Complutense, one of the oldest universities in the world, as aStudium Generale. With the patronage ofCardinal Cisneros, it was recognized in a 1499papal bull, and quickly gained international fame as a main centre of learning of theRenaissance thanks to the production of theComplutensian Polyglot Bible in 1517, which is the basis for most[quantify] of the current translations. By royal decree, the university moved to Madrid in 1836 (initially as the Universidad de Madrid, later as the Universidad Central, which in the 1970s would finally be renamedUniversidad Complutense de Madrid). A new university was founded in the old buildings as theUniversidad de Alcalá in 1977. Parts of the new university occupy the buildings of the old Universidad Complutense in the city centre, including the modern Colegio de San Ildefonso, theColegio de Málaga and otherColegios, and the structures have served as a model for other universities across the Spanish territories in the Americas and other dependencies.
The university chapel dedicated to Saint Ildefonso has a monument to the university's founder, Cardinal Cisneros, byFancelli, an Italian sculptor.
Although the present university is named "Universidad de Alcalá", the ancient institution founded by Cisneros is the one now called "Universidad Complutense", translocated in the capital city of Madrid ("Complutensis" is the Latin word for "native of Alcalá"). The modern university is related to the original institution in name only, although it occupies the former buildings of the Complutense.
The Magistral Cathedral of Saint Justus and Saint Pastor andSaint Peter's of Leuven are the only churches worldwide to hold the title ofMagistral, as theircanons are required to be doctors inTheology.[42] The archbishop Carrillo (1446-1482) elevated the church to the rank ofcollegiate church. The current building was designed during the time ofCardinal Cisneros (1495-1517) he was awarded the title of "Master" and the current building was designed and constructed between 1497 and 1516 in late Gothic style typical of the age.[43] The tower was built between 1528 and 1582.
It was declaredBien de Interés Cultural in 1904.[44] During theSpanish Civil War (1936-1939), the church was burned. It lost virtually all its treasures in the fire, saving some bars and some chairs from the old choir. In 1991 the diocese of Alcalá restored and elevated to the status of cathedral-master, the Diocese Complutense recovering that which was from the 5th century until 1099.
The Cathedral of Alcalá is notable as one of only two churches in the world to be granted the special title "magistral" (along withSt. Peter's Church inLeuven,Belgium). The title reflects its former status as acollegiate church, and derives from the requirement that all of thecanons of the cathedral must possess the academic distinction ofDoctor of Theology in order to serve there. In addition to that of Saints Justus and Pastor, the cathedral also houses the tomb of renowned 17th-century Spanish sculptorGregorio Fernández.
The city is also home to the Archbishops Palace. This site is where Christopher Columbus and King Ferdinand planned the excursion to the West as well as the birthplace ofCatherine of Aragon, daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella, who would be the first wife of KingHenry VIII of England and therefore queen consort ofEngland.
Alcalá'sCorral of Comedies, which hosts a full program of theatre and is open for tours, is the oldest documented corral in the history of Spain.
The center of the city remains essentially medieval, with many winding cobbled streets, and many historic buildings. The city centre surrounds thePlaza de Cervantes and is traversed by a long pedestrian main street, theCalle Mayor. The city includes the Moorish quarter, the Jewish quarter, and the Christian quarter. These distinct neighborhoods have given Alcalá the reputation of "the city of three cultures".
The old city centre has been largely preserved, unlike the suburbs. There has been no clear planning by the city councillors regarding expansion, and the sprawling suburban areas are irregularly constructed, with the addition of 1970s-style high rise blocks in many places.
One of the most important streets in the city is theCalle del Cardenal Cisneros which takes tourists from the Madrid Gate at the entrance of the city, to the old city center and the cathedral in Santos Niños Square. The main park of Alcalá, Parque Municipal O'Donnell is a major recreational center for city residents and lies along a main road of Alcalá, Vía Complutense.
Recent archaeological excavations have opened up the city's Roman forum where a large complex comprising a basilica, public baths, acryptoporticus, a market and a large monumental façade stands out. Alongside the forum is the Domus with an extraordinary collection of Roman domestic mural paintings. On the outskirts is the House of Hippolytus, an old school. In turn, theRegional Archaeology Museum (MAR) holds highly valuable mosaics.
The city hosts a large population of international students due to the presence of the university, and in particular itsSpanish language and literature programs for foreign students. Alcalingua, a branch ofUniversity of Alcalá, is one of the major foreign language learning centers for students from abroad.
Alcalá is well known for its population ofwhite storks. Their large nests can be observed atop many of the churches and historic buildings in the city, and are themselves a significant tourist attraction. Situated in the lowlands of theHenares river, the city is an attractive home for the migratory storks due to the wide availability of food and nesting material in the area.
For over twenty years, Alcalá's storks have been counted and studied, and the active protection and maintenance of their nests is by official policy. Although once in danger of disappearing, with only eleven pairs counted between 1986 and 1987, the population has grown to around 90 resident pairs today, many of which have shortened the distance and duration of their typical migrations to remain in the city nearly all year.[45]
Some 18% of the population are of foreign origin, according to the official data, a large part of the newcomers (30%) are immigrants fromEastern Europe. ManyChinese businesses have also been established in the city. Alcalá has the largest community (18%) ofRomanian immigrants in Spain, with over 35,000 people. In 2007, for the first time, the immigrants from Romania created a political party for the elections to come.
The current mayor of the municipality isJudith Piquet, of thePP. In the most recent2023 elections, the PP benefitted from the fall ofCiudadanos, as happened nationally.
The A-2 highway as it passes through the municipality
Alcalá's excellent transport links with Madrid have led to its becoming a commuter town, with many of its inhabitants travelling to work in the capital. By Cercanias (railway) is the lines C2 and C7 that links Alcalá de Henares with Madrid in 35 minutes, or Guadalajara in 25 minutes, also exists in the peak hours trains called CIVIS, direct train, that makes the journey in 20 minutes. Also it is linked by bus to Madrid, Guadalajara and several towns and villages in nearby. By car, Alcalá de Henares is well linked with the state roads network with the nearbyA-2, the highway which starts in Madrid and continues on to Barcelona and to France.
Alcalá also has an intensive bus system called "Alcalá-Bus" which runs to all the major neighborhoods and costs 1,30 euro per ride.[citation needed]
The city celebrates the birthday of native sonMiguel de Cervantes on 9 October every year and organizes an annual Cervantes festival, theSemana Cervantina [es] (Cervantine Week).
Every year on 23 April, the anniversary of Cervantes' death, the city of Alcalá hosts theMiguel de Cervantes Prize, theSpanish-speaking world's most prestigious award for lifetime achievement in literature. The award is presented by theking of Spain at the University of Alcalá's historicColegio de San Ildefonso. Speeches about the importance of the Spanish language are customarily given by the king, the minister of culture and the laureate. The ceremony attracts a wide range of dignitaries to the city including members of the royal family, the prime minister, and others. During this ceremony the citizens of Alcalá can be heard singing the city's song, entitled "Alcalá de Henares".
Alcalá de Henares is a member (and promoter) of the Red de Ciudades Cervantinas (Network of Cervantine Cities).[46]
Alcalá hosts an annual "Noche en Blanco". During this festival the streets are filled with music, art, theatre, and dance as the city residents celebrate Alcalá's rich cultural heritage. The festival goes well into the night and centers around the Plaza de Cervantes where stages are set up to host the performances.[citation needed]
Saint Didacus, known as San Diego in Spanish, was born in Alcalá de Henares and is the namesake for the city ofSan Diego, United States. Alcalá de Henares is the birthplace ofCatherine of Aragon; it is twinned with the English city ofPeterborough inEngland, her final resting place.
Miguel de Cervantes (1547–1616), Spanish writer who is widely regarded as the greatest writer in the Spanish language and one of the world's pre-eminent novelists. His major work,Don Quixote, is considered the first modern novel, a classic of Western literature.
Juan Ruiz (1283–1350), known as the Archpriest of Hita, was a medieval Castilian poet. He is best known for his ribald, earthy poem,Libro de buen amor ("The Book of Good Love").
Complutenses, authors of the courses of Scholastic philosophy, theology and moral theology who were lecturers of the philosophical college of the Discalced Carmelites at Alcalá de Henares
^Azcárraga Cámara, Sandra (2017). "El origen del urbanismo romano en la actual Comunidad de Madrid: La fundación de Complutum en el Cerro de San Juan del Viso (Villalbilla, Madrid)".Zona arqueológica.20 (1). Alcalá de Henares:Museo Arqueológico Regional: 155.ISSN1579-7384.
^Martín-Serrano García, Pilar; Lavesa Díaz, Carlos (2008).Alcalá de Henares(PDF). Arquitectura y Desarrollo Urbano. Vol. 14. pp. 45–46.ISBN978-84-451-3127-5.
^Mercedes García-Arenal; et al. (2013).The Orient in Spain: Converted Muslims. Brill. p. 367.ISBN978-90-04-25029-1.Archived from the original on 2023-04-19. Retrieved2020-08-21.etymology of Alcalá: its Roman name, Complutum, arose from the fact that all the water-courses met there
^Library, New York Public (1938).Bulletin of the New York Public Library. p. 407.Archived from the original on 2023-04-19. Retrieved2020-08-21.Its old Roman name of Complutum was given to it, because it was the confluence, or meeting place of two rivers
^Freund, Wilhelm (1882).Grand dictionnaire de la langue latine (in French). Firmin-Didot. p. 569.Archived from the original on 2023-04-19. Retrieved2020-08-21.On a appelécompluvium le lieu où réunissaient les eaux pluviales.Varro = "They called the place where rain waters flowed togethercompluvium."
^Gómez López, Consuelo (1996). "La «Renovatio Urbis»: poder, ciudad y universidad en el siglo xvi".Espacio, Tiempo y Forma. Serie VII. Historia del Arte.9.Universidad Nacional de Educación a Distancia: 70.
^De la Morena, A (1999).La Catedral-Magistral de Alcalá de Henares, Patrimonio de la Humanidad (in Spanish). Diócesis de Alcalá de Henares.ISBN84-89285-12-8.
García Valcárcel, Reyes; Écija Moreno, Ana María; Valcárcel, Soledad (2001).Tierras de Alcalá. El valle del Henares (I)(PDF). Madrid: Secretaría General Técnica. Consejería de Educación de la Comunidad de Madrid.ISBN84-451-2101-4.Archived(PDF) from the original on 2022-10-09.
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