1880s fashion in Western and Western-influenced countries is characterized by the return of thebustle. The long, lean line of the late1870s was replaced by a full, curvy silhouette with gradually widening shoulders. Fashionable waists were low and tiny below a full, low bust supported by acorset. TheRational Dress Society was founded in 1881 in reaction to the extremes of fashionable corsetry.
As in the previous decade, emphasis remained on the back of the skirt, with fullness gradually rising from behind the knees to just below the waist. The fullness in back was balanced by a fuller, lower chest, achieved by rigid corseting, creating an S-shaped silhouette, foreshadowing the more radical form of this shape that would become popular in the early 1900s. These gowns typically did not have a long train in the back, which was different from the gowns worn in the 1870s, and were extremely tight. They were known as the "hobble-skirt" due to the tightness of them. Winter gowns were made in darker hues whereas summer ones were made in lighter colors. Velvet was also a very popular fabric used during this period.[1]
Skirts were looped, draped, or tied up in various ways, and worn over matching or contrasting colored underskirts. Thepolonaise was a revival style based on a fashion of the 1780s, with a fitted, cutaway overdress caught up and draped over an underskirt. Long, jacket-like fitted bodices calledbasques were also popular for clothing during the day.
Gowns were sleeveless and low-necked (except for matrons), and were worn withlong over the elbow or shoulder length gloves of finekidskin or suede.
Chokernecklaces andjewelled collars were fashionable under the influence ofAlexandra, Princess of Wales, who wore this fashion to disguise a scar on her neck.
Thebustle returned to fashion and reached its greatest proportions c. 1886–1888, extending almost straight out from the back waist to support a profusion of drapery, frills, swags, and ribbons. The fashionable corset created a low, full bust with little separation of the breasts.
A usual type ofundergarment was calledcombinations, acamisole with attached knee- or calf-length drawers, worn under the corset, bustle, and petticoat. Woolen combinations were recommended for health, especially when engaging in fashionable sports.
Riding habits had become a "uniform" of matching jacket and skirt worn with a high-collared shirt orchemisette, with atop hat and veil. They were worn without bustles, but the cut of the jacket followed the silhouette of the day.
In contrast, hunting costumes were far more fashionably styled, with draped ankle-length skirts worn with boots orgaiters.
Tailored costumes consisting of a long jacket and skirt were worn for travel or walking; these were worn with the bustle and a small hat or bonnet. Travelers wore long coats likedusters to protect their clothes from dirt, rain, and soot.
Artistic dress remained an undercurrent in Bohemian circles throughout the 1880s. In reaction to the heavy drapery and rigid corseting of mainstream Paris fashion, aesthetic dress focused on beautiful fabrics made up simply, sometimes loosely fitted or with a belt at the waist. Aesthetic ideas influenced thetea gown, a frothy confection increasingly worn in the home, even to receive visitors.
Hair was usually pulled back at the sides and worn in a low knot or cluster of ringlets; later hair was swept up to the top of the head.Fringe or bangs remained fashionable throughout the decade, usually curled or frizzled over the forehead, often called "Josephine Curls."
Bonnets resembledhats except for their ribbons tied under the chin; both had curvy brims. Sometimes people wore ribbons too.
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Three piece suits, "ditto suits", consisting of a sack coat with matchingwaistcoat (U.S.vest) andtrousers (called in the UK a "lounge suit") continued as an informal alternative to the contrastingfrock coat, waistcoat and trousers.
The cutawaymorning coat was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere, with a dress shirt and anascot tie. The most formalevening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark waistcoat. Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with a winged collar.
In mid-decade, a more relaxed formal coat appeared: thedinner jacket ortuxedo, which featured a shawl collar with silk or satin facings, and one or two buttons. Dinner jackets were appropriate when "dressing for dinner" at home or at a men's club.
TheNorfolk jacket was popular for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits. It was made of sturdy tweed or similar fabric and featured paired box pleats over the chest and back, with a fabric belt.
Full-lengthtrousers were worn for most occasions; tweed or woollen breeches were worn for hunting and other outdoor pursuits.
Knee-lengthtopcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur collars, and calf-lengthovercoats were worn in winter.
By the 1880s the majority of the working class, even shepherds, adopted jackets and waistcoats in fustian and corduroy with corduroy trousers, giving up their smock frocks.
Shirtcollars were turned over or pressed into "wings". Dress shirts had stiff fronts, sometimes decorated withshirt studs, and buttoned up the back.
The usualnecktie was the four-in-hand and or the newly fashionableAscot tie, made up as a neckband with wide wings attached and worn with a stickpin.
Narrow ribbon ties were tied in a bow, and white bowtie was correct with formal evening wear.
As in the 1870s,top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear;bowlers and soft felt hats in a variety of shapes were worn for more casual occasions, and flat strawboaters were worn for yachting and other nautical pastimes.
Shoes of the 1880s had higher heels and a narrow toe.
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Young girls wore dresses with round collars and sashes. Fashionable dresses had dropped waists.Pinafores were worn for work and play. When going out, especially in the winter, girls wore many layers to keep warm. A warm coat was worn with kid leather gloves. Gloves were worn under a muff hand warmer, so when the girl removed her hands from the muff, her gloves would keep them warm. Just like ladies, all upper-class Victorian girls wore gloves when going out. A hat or bonnet was worn as well, along with long, knee-length button-up boots or shorter boots withgaiters to give the appearance of wearing long boots.
Older boys wore knee-lengthbreeches and jackets with round-collared shirts.
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