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| Cha chaan teng | |||||||||||||||||
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| Traditional Chinese | 茶餐廳 | ||||||||||||||||
| Simplified Chinese | 茶餐厅 | ||||||||||||||||
| Jyutping | caa4 caan1 teng1 | ||||||||||||||||
| Literal meaning | "tea restaurant" | ||||||||||||||||
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Cha chaan teng (Chinese:茶餐廳;Cantonese Yale:chàhchāantēng;lit. 'tea restaurant'), often called aHong Kong-style cafe ordiner in English, is a type ofrestaurant that originated inHong Kong.[1][2][3]Cha chaan tengs are commonly found in Hong Kong,Macau, and parts ofGuangdong. Due to thewaves of mass migrations from Hong Kong in the 1980s, they are now established in majorChinese communities in Western countries such asAustralia,Canada, theUnited Kingdom, and theUnited States. Likened to agreasy spoon cafe or an Americandiner,[3][4]cha chaan tengs are known for eclectic and affordable menus, which include dishes fromHong Kong cuisine andHong Kong-style Western cuisine.[5] They draw comparisons to Westerncafés due to their casual settings, as well as menus revolving aroundcoffee andtea.
Since the 1850s,Western cuisine in Hong Kong had been available only in full-service restaurants—a privilege limited for the upper class, and financially out of reach for most working-class locals. In the 1920s, dining in a Western restaurant could cost up to $10, while a working local earned $15 to $50 per month.[6]
After theSecond World War, Hong Kong culture was influenced by British culture,[3] with locals beginning to add milk to tea and eating cakes. SomeHongkongers set upcha chaan tengs that targeted a local audience.[citation needed] Providing different kinds of Canto-Western cuisine and drinks with very low prices led to them being regarded as "cheap Western food", or "soy sauce Western food" (豉油西餐).[3]
In the 1950s and 60s,cha chaan tengs sprang up as rising lower class incomes made such "Western food" affordable,[3][7] causing "soy sauce western restaurants" andbing sutt (冰室, "ice rooms") to turn intocha chaan teng[8] to satisfy the high demand of affordable[7] and fast Hong Kong-style Western food.[8]
In recent years, the management ofcha chaan tengs has adapted to developments in the Hong Kong economy and society. During the1997 Asian financial crisis,cha chaan tengs became much more popular in Hong Kong as they still provided the cheapest food for the public.[9]
Before 2007, mostcha chaan tengs allowed people tosmoke, and some waiters would even smoke when working. Since 1 January 2007,Hong Kong law prohibits smoking within the indoor premises of restaurants.
In April 2007, one of the Hong Kong political officers suggested thatcha chaan teng be listed in theUNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists, because of its important role in Hong Kong society.[10] On 19 December 2007, lawmakerChoy So Yuk proposed, during alegislative council session, that Hong Kong's cha chaan teng be recognised and put up toUNESCO as an "intangible cultural heritage of humanity". The proposal came about after a Hong Kong poll found that seven out of ten people believed the cafes deserved a UNESCO cultural listing.[11] However, despite these proposals, cha chaan teng was not added to UNESCO's lists.[3]
In June 2014, a number of well-known dishes atcha chaan tengs—namely milk tea,yuenyeung,pineapple bun, andegg tart—were enlisted into the first Intangible Cultural Heritage Inventory of Hong Kong.[12]
The name, literally "tea restaurant", serves to distinguish the restaurants from Western restaurants that provide water to customers instead of tea.Cha chaan teng establishments provide tea (usually weak tea) called "clear tea" (清茶 cing1 caa4) to customers as soon as they are seated. Some patrons use this hot tea to wash theirutensils, a common custom in Hong Kong. The "tea" in the name refers to inexpensiveblack tea, which differs from the traditionalChinese tea served in traditionaldim sum restaurants andteahouses (茶樓).
The "tea" may also refer to tea drinks, such as theHong Kong-style milk tea and iced lemon tea, which are served in manycha chaan tengs. The older generations in Hong Kong refer to dining in these restaurants asyum sai cha (飲西茶; lit: "drinking Western tea"), in contrast to goingyum cha.
Somecha chaan tengs adopt the word "café" in their names. This is especially the case when located in English-speaking countries where they are commonly known as "Hong Kong-style cafes" and are instead best known for their serving ofyuenyeung and Hong Kong-style (condensed milk) coffee.
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Usually, tea restaurants have high customer turnover, at 10–20 minutes for a sitting. Customers typically receive their dishes after five minutes. The waiters take the order with their left hand and pass the dishes with their right hand. This is said to embody Hong Kong's hectic lifestyle. During peak periods, long queues form outside many restaurants.
The staff in acha chaan teng work long hours, sometimes also night shifts.
Because of the limited land and expensive rent,cha chaan tengs are gradually being replaced by chain restaurants, such asCafé de Coral,Maxim's, andFairwood. As chain restaurants dominate the market, Hong Kong'scha chaan teng culture is disappearing. They are, however, increasing in popularity overseas, with many opening up in Cantonese diaspora communities as a casual alternative to more traditional Chinese restaurants.[13][14][15]
To speed up the ordering process, waiters use a range of shorthands when writing down orders (essentially, a Cantonese equivalent to the phenomenon of Americandiner lingo).
Customers similarly use special phrases when ordering:
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Acha chaan teng serves a wide range of food, fromsteak towonton noodles tocurry tosandwiches, e.g.Hong Kong-style French toast.[16] Both fast food andà-la-carte dishes are available. A largercha chaan teng often consists of three cooking places: a "water bar" (水吧) which makes drinks,toast/sandwiches, andinstant noodles; a "noodle stall" which preparesChiuchow-style noodles (including wonton noodles); and a kitchen for producing rice plates and other more expensive dishes.
Drinks
The invention of drinks likeyuenyeung (鴛鴦), iced tea with lemon (凍檸茶), andCoca-Cola with lemon (檸樂) is often credited culturally tocha chaan tengs.
Adding ice in a drink may cost an extra fee. Some people simply ask for a glass of ice.
Snacks
Fried dishes
Soup dishes
Miscellaneous dishes
A feature found incha chaan tengs is set meals. There are various sets available throughout the day for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner. The lunch and dinner sets usually include a soup and a drink. Generally, there is an additionalHK$2–3 charge for cold drinks. Sometimes, an additionalHK$5 is charged for toasting the bread (烘底).
Other sets include:
Generally, the tables incha chaan tengs are square for four people, or round for six to eight people. For each table, there is a piece of glass that covers the top and some menus are placed between the table and glass. During lunch or dinner, customers are sometimes requested to "daap toi" (搭枱), meaning they share a table with other customers who were already seated before. This helps save space, provide waiting guests with seats faster, and give customers in a hurry a seat.
Much of the plastic-ware found on the table is provided by beverage companies as a form of advertising. This plastic-ware includes containers holdingtoothpicks, plastic menu holders, etc. Brands likeOvaltine,Horlicks, andRibena are the usual providers. To minimise costs,cha chaan tengs also rarely have utensils that bear their own brand name. As a result, the same utensils can be found in many differentcha chaan tengs, even different chains. These utensils can be bought insupermarkets, department stores, and stores specializing in restaurant supplies.
Walls and floors incha chaan tengs are often tiled because they are easier to clean (especially inHong Kong's humid summer weather). In overseas communities, these restaurants are famous for stocking Chinese newspapers and having LCD televisions on the wall, broadcasting Hong Kong news services.
Other kinds of local restaurants related tocha chaan teng in Hong Kong includechaan sutt (餐室; lit. "meal chamber"),bing sutt (冰室; lit. "ice chamber"), andbing teng (冰廳; lit. "ice dining room"), which provide a lighter and more limited selection of food thancha chaan teng.
In the old days, these eateries only sold different types of "ice", sandwiches, and pasta butno rice plates. However, some of the restaurants bearing these titles today ignore the tradition, and provide all kinds of rice plates and even wonton noodles. Originalchaan sutts,bing sutts, andbing tengs, which can be regarded as the prototype ofcha chaan tengs, are now scarce in Hong Kong.
In June 2009, Hong Kong retail design storeG.O.D. collaborated withStarbucks and created a store with a "Bing Sutt Corner" at their store onDuddell Street. It is a concept that fuses the retro Hong Kong teahouse style with the contemporary look of a coffeehouse.[19][20]
Somecha chaan tengs have moved to abuffet style of service.Fei Du Du Cha Chaan Teng, owned by Stephen Cheng inTsuen Wan, was the first knowncha chaan teng to move to a buffet style, on 1 March 2013.[citation needed] The idea originated when Cheng, facing high rent, decided to try a new method to run his business to compete with the highinflation rate.[21] With reported success, several other restaurants also switched to buffet style.
Customer reception seemed generally positive, as prices decreased. One customer fromSham Shui Po said the meal was almost 70% cheaper than the food served in the industrial regions nearby.[22]
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