Western wear is a category of men's and women's clothing which derives its unique style from the clothes worn in the 19th centuryWild West. It ranges from accurate historical reproductions ofAmerican frontier clothing, to the stylized garments popularized byWestern film and television orsinging cowboys such asGene Autry andRoy Rogers in the 1940s and 1950s. It continues to be a fashion choice in theWest andSouthwestern United States, as well as people associated withcountry music orWestern lifestyles, for example the variousWestern orRegional Mexican music styles. Western wear typically incorporates one or more of the following:Western shirts withpearl snap fasteners andvaquero design accents,blue jeans,cowboy hat, a leatherbelt, andcowboy boots.
In the early days of theOld West, it was thebowler hat rather than theslouch hat, center crease (derived from the army regulationHardee hat), orsombrero that was the most popular among cowboys as it was less likely to blow off in the wind.[1] By the 1870s, however, theStetson had become the most popularcowboy hat due to its use by theUnion Cavalry as an alternative to the regulation bluekepi.[2][3]
Stampede strings were installed to prevent the hat from being blown off when riding at speed. These long strings were usually made fromleather orhorsehair. Typically, the string was run half-way around the crown of acowboy hat, and then through a hole on each side with its ends knotted and then secured under the chin or around the back of the head keeping the hat in place in windy conditions or when riding a horse.
The tall whiteten gallon hats traditionally worn by movie cowboys were of little use for the historicalgunslinger as they made him an easy target, hence the preference of lawmen likeWild Bill Hickok,Wyatt Earp andBat Masterson for low-crowned black hats.[4]
Originally part of the traditionalPlains Indian clothing,coonskin caps were frequently worn bymountain men likeDavy Crockett for their warmth and durability. These were revived in the 1950s following the release of a popular Disney movie starringFess Parker.[5][6]
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AWestern shirt is a traditional item of western wear characterized by a stylizedyoke on the front and on the back. It is generally constructed ofchambray,denim ortartan fabric with long sleeves, and in modern form is sometimes seen with snap pockets, patches made frombandana fabric, and fringe. The "Wild West" era was during the late Victorian era, hence the direct similarity of fashion.
A Westerndress shirt is often elaborately decorated with piping, embroidered roses and a contrasting yoke. In the 1950s these were frequently worn by movie cowboys likeRoy Rogers orClayton Moore'sLone Ranger.[7] Derived from the elaborate Mexicanvaquero costumes like theguayabera, these were worn atrodeos so the cowboy could be easily identifiable.[8]Buffalo Bill was known to wear them with a buckskinfringe jacket during his Wild West shows.
Another common type of Western shirt is the shield-front shirt (also called a bib shirt)[9])worn by many US Cavalry troopers during theAmerican Civil War but originally derived from a red shirt issued to prewar firefighters. The cavalry shirt was made of blue wool with yellow piping and brass buttons and was invented by the flamboyantGeorge Armstrong Custer.[10] In recent times this shield-front shirt was popularised byJohn Wayne inFort Apache and was also worn byrockabilly musicians like theStray Cats.
In 1946, Papa Jack Weil put snap buttons on the front, and pocket flaps on the Western shirt, and established Denver'sRockmount Ranch Wear.[11] Other early Western wear labels included California-based H Bar C, and Panhandle Slim, from Westmoor Manufacturing, which migrated from Minneapolis, to Omaha, and finally in 1975 to Fort Worth, Texas.[12]
Western shirts have been a staple of the American West and fashionable with young men since the 1960s and 1970s. AGQ writer in 2012 noted "vintage washed out westerns from the '70s becoming coveted items."[13]
When a jacket is required there is a wide choice available for both linedancers andhistorical re-enactors. Cowboy coats originated from charro suits and were passed down to the vaqueros who later introduced it to the American cowboys. These includefrock coats,ponchos popularised byClint Eastwood'sSpaghetti Westerns, short Mexican jackets with silver embroidery,fringe jackets popular amongoutlaw country,southern rock and 1980sheavy metal bands,[14] andduster coats derived from originals worn in the Wild West.[15] More modern interpretations includeleatherwaistcoats inspired by thebiker subculture and jackets with a design imitating thepiebald color of a cow. Women may wearbolero jackets derived from the Civil War erazouave uniforms,shawls,denim jackets in a color matching their skirt or dress, or afringe jacket likeAnnie Oakley.[16]
For more formal occasions inhabitants of the West might opt for a suit with "smile" pockets, piping and a yoke similar to that on the Western shirts. This can take the form of anIke jacket,leisure suit or three-buttonsportcoat.Country and Western singerJohnny Cash was known to wear an all-black Western suit, in contrast to the elaborateNudie suits worn by stars likeElvis Presley andPorter Wagoner.[17] The most elaborate western wear is the custom work created byrodeo tailors such asNudie Cohn andManuel, which is characterized by elaborateembroidery andrhinestone decoration. This type of western wear, popularized bycountry music performers, is the origin of the phraserhinestone cowboy.
In the early days of the Wild West trousers were made out of wool. In summer canvas was sometimes used. This changed during theGold Rush of the 1840s whendenimoveralls became popular among miners for their cheapness and breathability.Levi Strauss improved the design by addingcopperrivets[18] and by the 1870s this design was adopted byranchers andcowboys.[19] The originalLevi's jeans were soon followed by other makers includingWrangler jeans[20] andLee Cooper. These were frequently accessorised with kippy belts featuring metalconchos and largebelt buckles.
Leatherchaps were often worn to protect the cowboy's legs fromcactus spines and prevent the fabric from wearing out.[21] Two common types include the skintight shotgun chaps[22] and wide batwing chaps. The latter were sometimes made from hides retaining their hair (known as "woolies") rather than tanned leather. They appeared on the Great Plains somewhere around 1887.[23]
Women wore knee-lengthprairie skirts,[24] red or bluegingham dresses orsuede fringed skirts derived from Native American dress. Saloon girls wore short red dresses withcorsets,garter belts andstockings.[25] After World War II, many women, returning to the home after working in the fields or factories while the men were overseas, began to wear jeans like the men.
During theVictorian era, gentlemen would wear silkcravats orneckties to add color to their otherwise sober black or grey attire. These continued to be worn by respectable Westerners until the early 20th century. Following the Civil War it became common practice among working class veterans to loosely tie abandana around their necks to absorb sweat and keep the dust out of their faces. This practise originated in theMexican War era regular army when troops threw away the hatedleatherstocks (a type ofcollar issued to soldiers) and replaced them with cheappaisleykerchiefs.[26]
Another well-known Western accessory, thebolo tie, was apioneer invention reputedly made from an expensive hatband.[27] This was a favorite forgamblers and was quickly adopted by Mexicancharros, together with the slim "Kentucky" stylebowtie commonly seen on stereotypical Southern gentlemen likeColonel Sanders[28] orBoss Hogg. In modern times it serves as formal wear in many western states, notably Montana, New Mexico[29] and Texas.[30]
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