Shell cordovan,cordovan, orcordwain is a type oftannedleather. Cordovan is anequine material made from thesuperficial fascia (orshell) of the lower layers of thehide on therump of a horse.[1] The material derives its name from the city ofCordoba, Spain, which was long known as a center of leather production and where this type of leather originated.[2] It is a difficult and expensive material to make. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic. Because it is made of connective tissue, it is smooth and lacks the pebbled effect of leather derived from the outer skin.[3]
After removal from the horse, the hide is measured from the root of the tail 18 inches (460 mm) forward on thebackbone. The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a "front" (the forward part) and the "butt". The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts, but is especially used in connection with the termgaloshes, meaning the vamps orboot-fronts cut from the shell of the butt.[4]
After being tanned, leather from the "front" is typically used in the fabrication ofgloves, or blackened, to be used in the tops of shoes. The "butt", after tanning, is passed through a splitting-machine which removes the grain, orhair side, revealing what is termed the "shell". The close fibers of the shell result in a smooth and pliable material.[4]
Historically, shell cordovan was used forrazor strops to hone razors in barber shops. It is used mostly in the manufacture ofshoes, includinghigh-endshoemaking, and is also used for wallets and watch straps due to its visual appeal and durability.[4] Inarchery, it is used to protect the fingers and is considered smooth and durable, ideal for afinger tab.
Outsideleather crafting, "cordwain" denotes a leather-grain embossed cover paper used for folders, covers, and similar applications in commercial printing.[5][6]
Cordwain... A term applied to a leather-grain finish on cover papers, produced by embossing.
Cordwain... [listed under] INDEX & COVER.