Famagusta,^[a] also known byseveral other names, is a city located inCyprus. It is located east of the capital,Nicosia, and possesses the deepest harbour of the island. During theMiddle Ages (especially under themaritime republics ofGenoa andVenice), Famagusta was the island's most important port city and a gateway to trade with the ports of theLevant, from where theSilk Road merchants carried their goods toWestern Europe.

Famagusta Αμμόχωστος (Greek) Gazimağusa (Turkish)
City and municipality
Varosha Othello Castle Lusignan Palace St Anne Church Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque Osman Fazil Mosque Famagusta Walls Famagusta Port
Interactive map outlining Famagusta
Famagusta Location withinCyprus Show map of Cyprus Famagusta Location within theEastern Mediterranean Show map of Eastern Mediterranean Famagusta Location withinAsia Show map of Asia
Coordinates:35°07′30″N33°56′30″E / 35.12500°N 33.94167°E /35.12500; 33.94167
Country(de jure)	Cyprus
District	Famagusta District
Country(de facto)	Northern Cyprus[1]
District	Gazimağusa District
Government
• Mayor	Simos Ioannou (Republic of Cyprus) Süleyman Uluçay (claimantTurkish Republic of Northern Cyprus )
Area [2]
• Municipality	37.7 km2 (14.6 sq mi)
• District	997 km2 (385 sq mi)
Population  (2019)[4]
• Municipality	55,648
• Density	1,500/km2 (3,800/sq mi)
• District	91,307[3]
Time zone	UTC+2 (EET)
• Summer (DST)	UTC+3 (EEST)
Website	Famagusta Turkish Municipality (in Famagusta) Famagusta Municipality (in exile)

The city was known asArsinoe orArsinoë (Ancient Greek:Ἀρσινόη,Arsinóē) inantiquity,^[5] afterPtolemy II ofEgypt's sister and wifeArsinoe II.

By the 3rd century, the city appears asAmmochostos (Ancient Greek:Ἀμμόχωστος orΑμμόχωστος,Ammókhōstos, "Hidden in Sand") in theStadiasmus Maris Magni.^[6] This name is still used inmodern Greek with the pronunciation[aˈmoxostos], while it developed intoLatinFama Augusta,FrenchFamagouste,ItalianFamagosta, andEnglishFamagusta during the medieval period. Its informalmodern Turkish nameMağusa (Turkish pronunciation:[maˈusa]) came from the same source. On 25 December 1975, the formal name inNorthern Cyprus was changed by an act of parliament toGazimağusa ([ɡaːzimaˈusa]) with the addition of the titlegazi, meaning "veteran".^[7][8]

In the early medieval period, the city was also known asNew Justiniana (Ancient Greek:Νέα Ἰουστινιανία,Néa Ioustinianía) in appreciation for the patronage of theByzantineemperorJustinian, whose wifeTheodora was born there.

The old town of Famagusta has also been nicknamed "the City of 365 Churches"^{[citation needed][clarification needed]} from the legend that, at its peak, it boasted a church for every day of the year.

The city was founded around 274 BC, after the serious damage toSalamis by an earthquake, byPtolemy II Philadelphus and named "Arsinoe" after his sister.^[9] Arsinoe was described as a "fishing town" byStrabo in hisGeographica in the first century BC. In essence, Famagusta was the successor of the most famous and most important ancient city of Cyprus, Salamis. According to Greek mythology, Salamis was founded after the end of the Trojan War by Teucros, the son of Telamon and brother of Aedes, from the Greek island ofSalamis.

The city experienced great prosperity much later, during the time of theByzantineemperorJustinian. To honor the city, from which his wifeTheodora came, Justinian enriched it with many buildings, while the inhabitants named it New Justiniania to express their gratitude. InAD 647, when the neighboring cities were destroyed by Arab raiding, the inhabitants of these cities moved to Famagusta, as a result of which the city's population increased significantly and the city experienced another boom.

Later, when Jerusalem was occupied by the Arabs, the Christian population fled to Famagusta, as a result of which the city became an important Christian center, but also one of the most important commercial centers in the eastern Mediterranean.

The turning point for Famagusta was 1192 with the onset ofLusignan rule. It was during this period that Famagusta developed as a fully-fledged town. It increased in importance to the Eastern Mediterranean due to its natural harbour and the walls that protected its inner town. Its population began to increase. This development accelerated in the 13th century as the town became a centre of commerce for both the East and West. An influx of Christian refugees fleeing thedownfall of Acre (1291) inPalestine transformed it from a tiny village into one of the richest cities in Christendom.

In 1372 the port was seized byGenoa and in 1489 byVenice. This commercial activity turned Famagusta into a place where merchants and ship owners led lives of luxury. By the mid-14th century, Famagusta was said to have the richest citizens in the world.^[10] The belief that people's wealth could be measured by the churches they built inspired these merchants to have churches built in varying styles. These churches, which still exist, were the reason Famagusta came to be known as "the district of churches". The development of the town focused on the social lives of the wealthy people and was centred upon the Lusignan palace, the cathedral, the Square and the harbour.

•  
  Territories, colonies and trade routes of theRepublic of Genoa
•  
  Territories, colonies and trade routes of theRepublic of Venice
•  
  View of Famagusta in the 1480s, fromBeschreibung der Reise von Konstanz nach Jerusalem

In 1570–1571, Famagusta was the last stronghold in Venetian Cyprus tohold out against the Turks underMustafa Pasha. It resisted a siege of thirteen months and a terrible bombardment, until at last the garrison surrendered. The Ottoman forces had lost 50,000 men, including Mustafa Pasha's son. Although the surrender terms had stipulated that the Venetian forces be allowed to return home, the Venetian commander,Marco Antonio Bragadin, was flayed alive, his lieutenant Tiepolo was hanged, and many other Christians were killed.^[11]

With the advent of the Ottoman rule, Latins lost their privileged status in Famagusta and were expelled from the city. Greek Cypriots natives were at first allowed to own and buy property in the city, but were banished from the walled city in 1573–74 and had to settle outside in the area that later developed intoVarosha. Turkish families from Anatolia were resettled in the walled city but could not fill the buildings that previously hosted a population of 10,000.^[12] This caused a drastic decrease in the population of Famagusta. Merchants from Famagusta, who mostly consisted of Latins that had been expelled, resettled inLarnaca and as Larnaca flourished, Famagusta lost its importance as a trade centre.^[13] Over time, Varosha developed into a prosperous agricultural town thanks to its location away from the marshes, whilst the walled city remained dilapidated.^[12]

In the walled city, some buildings were repurposed to serve the interests of the Muslim population: the Cathedral of St. Nicholas was converted to a mosque (now known asLala Mustafa Pasha Mosque), abazaar was developed, public baths, fountains and a theological school were built to accommodate the inhabitants' needs. Dead end streets, an Ottoman urban characteristic, was imported to the city and a communal spirit developed in which a small number of two-storey houses inhabited by the small upper class co-existed with the widespread one-storey houses.^[14]

With the British takeover, Famagusta regained its significance as a port and an economic centre and its development was specifically targeted in British plans. As soon as the British took over the island, a Famagusta Development Act was passed that aimed at the reconstruction and redevelopment of the city's streets and dilapidated buildings as well as better hygiene. The port was developed and expanded between 1903 and 1906 andCyprus Government Railway, with its terminus in Famagusta, started construction in 1904. Whilst Larnaca continued to be used as the main port of the island for some time, after Famagusta's use as a military base inWorld War I trade significantly shifted to Famagusta.^[15] The city outside the walls grew at an accelerated rate, with development being centred around Varosha.^[14] Varosha became the administrative centre as the British moved their headquarters and residences there and tourism grew significantly in the last years of the British rule. Pottery and production of citrus and potatoes also significantly grew in the city outside the walls, whilst agriculture within the walled city declined to non-existence.^[15]

New residential areas were built to accommodate the increasing population towards the end of the British rule,^[14] and by 1960, Famagusta was a modern port city^[16] extending far beyond Varosha and the walled city.^[15]

The British period saw a significant demographic shift in the city. In 1881, Christians constituted 60% of the city's population while Muslims were at 40%. By 1960, the Turkish Cypriot population had dropped to 17.5% of the overall population, while the Greek Cypriot population had risen to 70%.^[17] The city was also the site for one of theBritish internment camps for nearly 50,000Jewish survivors of theHolocaust trying to emigrate toPalestine.^[16]

From independence in 1960 to theTurkish invasion of Cyprus of 1974, Famagusta developed toward the south west of Varosha as a well-known entertainment and tourist centre. The contribution of Famagusta to the country's economic activity by 1974 far exceeded its proportional dimensions within the country. Whilst its population was only about 7% of the total of the country, Famagusta by 1974 accounted for over 10% of the total industrial employment and production of Cyprus, concentrating mainly on light industry compatible with its activity as a tourist resort and turning out high-quality products ranging from food, beverages and tobacco to clothing, footwear, plastics, light machinery and transport equipment. It contributed 19.3% of the business units and employed 21.3% of the total number of persons engaged in commerce on the island. It acted asthe main tourist destination of Cyprus, hosting 31.5% of the hotels and 45% of Cyprus' total bed capacity.^[18]Varosha acted as the main touristic and business quarters.

In this period, the urbanisation of Famagusta slowed down and the development of the rural areas accelerated. Therefore, economic growth was shared between the city of Famagusta and the district, which had a balanced agricultural economy, with citrus, potatoes, tobacco and wheat as main products. Famagusta maintained good communications with this hinterland. The city's port remained the island's main seaport and in 1961, it was expanded to double its capacity in order to accommodate the growing volume of exports and imports. The port handled 42.7% of Cypriot exports, 48.6% of imports and 49% of passenger traffic.^[19]

There has not been an official census since 1960 but the population of the town in 1974 was estimated to be around 39,000^[20] not counting about 12,000–15,000 persons commuting daily from the surrounding villages and suburbs to work in Famagusta. The number of people staying in the city would swell to about 90,000–100,000 during the peak summer tourist period, with the influx of tourists from numerous European countries, mainly Britain, France, Germany and theScandinavian countries. The majority of the city population were Greek Cypriots (26,500), with 8,500 Turkish Cypriots and 4,000 people from other ethnic groups.^[20]

During the second phase of theTurkish invasion of Cyprus on 14 August 1974 theMesaoria plain was overrun by Turkish tanks and Famagusta was bombed by Turkish aircraft. It took two days for theTurkish Army to occupy the city, prior to which Famagusta's entire Greek Cypriot population had fled into surrounding fields. As a result of Turkish airstrikes dozens of civilians died, including tourists.^{[citation needed][21]}

Unlike other parts of the Turkish-controlled areas of Cyprus, theVarosha suburb of Famagusta was fenced off by the Turkish army immediately after being captured and remained fenced off until October 2020, when the TRNC reopened some streets to visitors. Some Greek Cypriots who had fled Varosha have been allowed to view the town and journalists have been allowed in.^[22]

UN Security Council resolution 550 (1984) considers any attempts to settle any part of Famagusta by people other than its inhabitants as inadmissible and unjust and calls for the transfer of this area to the administration of the UN. The UN'sSecurity Council resolution 789 (1992) also urges that with a view to the implementation of resolution 550 (1984), the area at present under the control of theUnited Nations Peace-keeping Force in Cyprus be extended to include Varosha.^[23]

Famagusta's historic city centre is surrounded by thefortifications of Famagusta, which have a roughly rectangular shape, built mainly by the Venetians in the 15th and 16th centuries, though some sections of the walls have been dated earlier times, as far as 1211.^[24] Some important landmarks and visitor attractions in the old city are:^{[25][26][27][28]}

• TheLala Mustafa Pasha Mosque
• TheOthello Castle
• Palazzo del Provveditore - the Venetian palace of the governor, built on the site of the former Lusignan royal palace
• St. Francis' Church
• Sinan Pasha Mosque
• Church of St. George of the Greeks
• Church of St. George of the Latins
• Twin Churches
• Nestorian Church (of St George the Exiler)
• Namık Kemal Dungeon
• Agios Ioannis Church
• Venetian House
• Akkule Masjid
• Mustafa Pasha Mosque
• Ganchvor monastery

In an October 2010 report titledSaving Our Vanishing Heritage,Global Heritage Fund listed Famagusta, a "maritime ancient city of crusader kings", among the 12 sites most "On the Verge" of irreparable loss and destruction, citing insufficient management and development pressures.^[29]

Famagusta is an important commercial hub of Northern Cyprus. The main economic activities in the city are tourism, education, construction and industrial production. It has a 115-acrefree port, which is the most important seaport of Northern Cyprus for travel and commerce.^[30][31] The port is an important source of income and employment for the city, though its volume of trade is restricted by theembargo against Northern Cyprus. Its historical sites, including the walled city, Salamis, the Othello Castle and the St Barnabas Church, as well as the sandy beaches surrounding it make it a tourist attraction; efforts are also underway to make the city more attractive for international congresses. The Eastern Mediterranean University is also an important employer and supplies significant income and activity, as well as opportunities for the construction sector. The university also raises a qualified workforce that stimulates the city's industry and makes communications industry viable. The city has two industrial zones: the Large Industrial Zone and the Little Industrial Zone. The city is also home to a fishing port, but inadequate infrastructure of the port restricts the growth of this sector.^[30] The industry in the city has traditionally been concentrated on processing agricultural products.^[32]

Historically, the port was the primary source of income and employment for the city, especially right after 1974. However, it gradually lost some of its importance to the economy as the share of its employees in the population of Famagusta diminished due to various reasons.^[33] However, it still is the primary port for commerce in Northern Cyprus, with more than half of ships that came to Northern Cyprus in 2013 coming to Famagusta. It is the second most popular seaport for passengers, afterKyrenia, with around 20,000 passengers using the port in 2013.^[34]

The mayor-in-exile of Famagusta is Simos Ioannou.^[35] Süleyman Uluçay heads the Turkish Cypriot municipal administration of Famagusta, which remains legal as a communal-based body under the constitutional system of the Republic of Cyprus.^[36]

Since 1974, Greek Cypriots submitted a number of proposals within the context of bicommunal discussions for the return of Varosha to UN administration, allowing the return of its previous inhabitants, requesting also the opening of Famagusta harbour for use by both communities. Varosha would have been returned to Greek Cypriot control as part of the 2004Annan Plan but the plan had been rejected by a majority(3/4) of Greek Cypriot voters.^[37]

The walled city of Famagusta contains many unique buildings. Famagusta has a walled city popular with tourists.^[38]

Every year, the International Famagusta Art and Culture Festival is organized in Famagusta. Concerts, dance shows and theater plays take place during the festival.^[39]

A growth in tourism and the city's university have fueled^[40] the development of Famagusta's vibrant^[41] nightlife. Nightlife in the city is especially active on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights and in the hotter months of the year, starting from April. Larger hotels in the city havecasinos that cater to their customers.^[42] Salamis Road is an area of Famagusta with a heavy concentration of bars frequented by students and locals.^[43]

Famagusta's Othello Castle is the setting for Shakespeare's playOthello.^[44] The city was also the setting forVictoria Hislop's 2015 novelThe Sunrise,^[45] andMichael Paraskos's 2016 novelIn Search of Sixpence.^[46] The city is the birthplace of the eponymous hero of the Renaissance proto-novelFortunatus.^{[citation needed]}

Famagusta was home to manyGreek Cypriot sport teams that left the city because of theTurkish invasion and still bear their original names. Most notable football clubs originally from the city areAnorthosis Famagusta FC andNea Salamis Famagusta FC, both of theCypriot First Division, which are now based inLarnaca. Usually Anorthosis Famagusta fans are politically right wing where Nea Salamis fans are left wing.

Famagusta is represented byMağusa Türk Gücü in theTurkish Cypriot First Division. Dr. Fazıl Küçük Stadium is the largest football stadium in Famagusta.^[47] ManyTurkish Cypriot sport teams that left Southern Cyprus because of theCypriot intercommunal violence are based in Famagusta.^{[citation needed]}

Famagusta is represented by DAÜ Sports Club and Magem Sports Club in North Cyprus First Volleyball Division. Gazimağusa Türk Maarif Koleji represents Famagusta in the North Cyprus High School Volleyball League.^[48]

Famagusta has a modernvolleyball stadium called the Mağusa Arena.^[49]

TheEastern Mediterranean University was founded in the city in 1979.^[50] TheIstanbul Technical University founded a campus in the city in 2010.^[51]

TheCyprus College of Art was founded in Famagusta by the Cypriot artistStass Paraskos in 1969, before moving to Paphos in 1972 after protests from local hoteliers that the presence of art students in the city was putting off holidaymakers.^[52]

Famagusta has three general hospitals.Gazimağusa Devlet Hastahanesi, a state hospital, is the biggest hospital in city.Gazimağusa Tıp Merkezi andGazimağusa Yaşam Hastahanesi are private hospitals.

• Saint Barnabas, born and died in Salamis, Famagusta
• Chris Achilleos, illustrator of the book versions on theBBC children's seriesDoctor Who
• Beran Bertuğ, formerGovernor of Famagusta, first Cypriot woman to hold this position
• Marios Constantinou, former international Cypriotfootballmidfielder and currentmanager.
• Eleftheria Eleftheriou, Cypriot singer.
• Derviş Eroğlu, former President ofNorthern Cyprus
• Alexis Galanos, 7th President of the House of Representatives and Famagusta mayor-in-exile (2006-2019) (Republic of Cyprus)
• Xanthos Hadjisoteriou, Cypriot painter
• Oz Karahan, political activist, President of theUnion of Cypriots
• Oktay Kayalp, former Turkish Cypriot Famagusta mayor (Northern Cyprus)
• Harry Luke British diplomat
• Angelos Misos, former international footballer
• Costas Montis was an influential and prolific GreekCypriot poet, novelist, and playwright born in Famagusta.
• Hal Ozsan, actor (Dawson's Creek,Kyle XY)
• Dimitris Papadakis, a Greek Cypriot politician, who served as aMember of the European Parliament.
• Ṣubḥ-i-Azal, Persian religious leader, lived and died in exile in Famagusta
• Touker Suleyman (born Türker Süleyman), British Turkish Cypriot fashion retail entrepreneur, investor and reality television personality.
• Andrekos Varnava (born 1979), academic, historian and author
• Alexia Vassiliou, singer, left here as a refugee when the town was invaded.^[53]
• George Vasiliou, formerPresident of Cyprus
• Vamik Volkan, Emeritus Professor of Psychiatry
• Derviş Zaim, film director

Famagusta istwinned with:

• İzmir, Turkey (since 1974)
• Corfu, Greece (since 1994)^[54]
• Patras, Greece (since 1994)^[54]
• Antalya, Turkey (since 1997)
• Salamina (city), Greece (since 1998)^[54]
• Struga,North Macedonia
• Athens, Greece (since 2005)^[54]
• Mersin, Turkey^[55]

Sources

• "Famagusta: Regal Capital"(PDF).Cyprus Today.48 (3). Press and Information Office, Ministry of Interior of the Republic of Cyprus:5–21. 2010. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 2018-11-05. Retrieved2016-03-28.
• Enlart, Camille (1899).L'art gothique et la Renaissance a Chypre. Paris, pp. 251–255.
• Magusa.org (English)Archived 2019-08-03 at theWayback Machine. Official website of Famagusta.
• Gürkan, Muzaffer Haşmet (2008).Kıbrıs'ın Sisli Tarihi (in Turkish) (1st ed.). Galeri Kültür.
• Langdale, Allan (2010)."At the Edge of Empire: Venetian Architecture in Famagusta, Cyprus".Viator. 41:No. 1, January. Brepols Publishers:155–198.doi:10.1484/J.VIATOR.1.100571.
• Smith, William (1854).Dictionary of Greek and Roman Geography. s.v. Arsinoe
• Uluca, Ege (2006),Gazimağusa Kaleiçi'nin Tarihsel Süreç İçindeki Kentsel Gelişimi ve Değişimi (PhD thesis) (in Turkish),Istanbul Technical University, retrieved4 January 2016

• Weyl Carr, Annemarie (ed.),Famagusta, Volume 1. Art and Architecture (=Mediterranean Nexus 1100-1700. Conflict, Influence and Inspiration in the Mediterranean Area 2), Turnhout: Brepols Publishers, 2014.ISBN 978-2-503-54130-3
• DVD / Film: The Stones of Famagusta: the Story of a Forgotten City (2008); Allan Langdale, "In a Contested Realm: An Illustrated Guide to the Archaeology and Historical Architecture of Northern Cyprus" (2012).

• Konrad von Grünenberg, complete onlinefacsimile ofBeschreibung der Reise von Konstanz nach Jerusalem.
• Famagusta City Guide
• Famagusta, 2015The New York Times feature article
• Complete online facsimile of Camile Enlart,L'art gothique et la renaissance en Chypre : illustré de 34 planches et de 421 figures, Paris, E. Leroux, 1899.
• Old maps of Famagusta,Historic Cities site