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Arg of Tabriz

TheArg of Tabriz (Persian:ارگ تبريز,romanizedArg Alishah), and also known as theArg-e Alishah, theArch of Alishah, theArg Citadel, andMasjid Ali-Shāh, is the remnants of a largeacropolisfortification (whence themetathetic nameark orarg pluspolis), city wall andmosque, located in downtownTabriz, in the province ofEast Azerbaijan,Iran. Its structure has long been visible from far distances in Tabriz, more recently partially obscured by newly-erected buildings.

Arg of Tabriz
ارگ تبريز
NearTabriz in Iran
Arg of Tabriz, 2022
Site information
Type
ConditionPartial ruinous state
Location
Arg of Tabriz is located in Iran
Arg of Tabriz
Arg of Tabriz
Location of the Arg inIran
Map
Coordinates38°4′20.5″N46°17′19.7″E / 38.072361°N 46.288806°E /38.072361; 46.288806
Site history
BuiltAH 710 (1310/1311 CE)–AH 720 (1320/1321)
MaterialsBricks
FateMonument
Masjid-i-Jami of Ali Shah
Religion
AffiliationIslam(former)
Ecclesiastical or organisational statusMausoleum andmosque
(14th century–1641)
StatusInactive(partial ruinous state)
Location
LocationTabriz,East Azerbaijan
CountryIran
Map
Geographic coordinates38°4′20.5″N46°17′19.7″E / 38.072361°N 46.288806°E /38.072361; 46.288806
Architecture
Architect(s)Falaki Tabrizi
TypeMosque architecture
StyleIlkhanate
FounderAli Shah
CompletedAH 710 (1310/1311 CE)–AH 720 (1320/1321)
Demolished1641 CE(partially collapsed due to theTabriz earthquake)
Specifications
Minaret(s)Two(since destroyed)
Minaret height61 m (200 ft)
MaterialsBricks, marble, tiles
Official nameAlishah Mosque
TypeBuilt
Designated1932
Reference no.170
Conservation organizationCultural Heritage, Handicrafts and Tourism Organization of Iran
[1][2]

The structure was initially a compound, containing a great vaulted mosque, adjoining prayer halls and libraries, a vast courtyard containing a huge reflecting pool, and a mausoleum—all surrounded by a containing wall. It was built in 14th century during theIlkhanate era. The point of pride for the building was that its vaultedayvan was larger than the famous historic vault ofKhosrow/Kisra, theTaq Kisra atCtesiphon/Mada'in. However, with the sudden death of the governor of the city and with some construction complications in constructing a roofed building without pillar for such a huge complex, the mausoleum structure remained incomplete.

In the 19th century with the rise of tensions between Iran and Russia the structure rapidly turned into the city's fort and additional military installations such as a barracks and cannon foundry were added to the original structure. During the 20th century, the military installations were removed from original construction and the surrounding of the ark turned into a park. In the late 20th century a big mosque was built next to the citadel.

The former mosque was added to theIran National Heritage List in 1932, administered by theCultural Heritage, Handicrafts and Tourism Organization of Iran.

History

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Ali Shah Mosque

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The original construction of the mosque was made betweenAH 710 (1310/1311 CE) and AH 720 (1320/1321), during theIlkhanate era by Ali Shah, the Iranianvizier during the reign ofOljeitu andAbu Sa'id. Organized around fouriwans, and oriented towardsqibla, the Ali Shah Mosque had a marble paved rectangularsahn, 286 metres (938 ft) wide by 229 metres (751 ft) long, that was entered through apishtaq. Themihrab, visible at the centre of the only remaining qibla wall, has three relieving arches above it; and on either side of the mihrab are two windows, high above ground level. Bounded by large plain brick walls of all four sides, thesahn contained an octagonal fountain, with four stone lion monuments sprouting water, and surrounding trees. The walls were broken only by the curved corners of the qibla and the rounded bastion behind themihrab recess. The main iwanbarrel vault was 30.5 metres (100 ft) wide and 48 metres (157 ft) deep, that was 65.5 metres (215 ft) from the portal and the mihrab. The total height of the vault was over 45.7 metres (150 ft) and was approximately 24 metres (79 ft) above the ground. During the construction, the main barrel vault collapsed and the construction was stopped afterward.[1]

Twominarets rose from the base, measuring approximately 61 metres (200 ft) above the ground level. Attached to either side of the iwan walls were also amadrasa and akhanqa. Little is known about these two structures, as both have completely collapsed.[1]

Anearthquake in 1641 severely damaged and collapsed the monument.[3] Centuries later, between the eruption of theRusso-Persian War, 1804-1813, and theRusso-Persian War (1826-1828), the compound was quickly reconstructed as a military compound. During the reconstruction of the Arg compound, a foundry factory for the manufacturing of cannons for the Iranian Army was built as well as a military headquarters, a barrack for the troops, and a small palace.[4]Samson Makintsev (better known asSamson Khan) aQajar Iranian general ofRussian origin, lived inside the citadel for years together with his wife, the daughter ofPrince Aleksandre of Georgia.[5]

Shelling of Arg by Russian troops, 1911

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During the1911 Russian invasion of Tabriz, the Russians shelled the Arg in initial attacks. Once they captured the city, they used the Arg as a central command center. During their occupation, because of careless handling, the artillery pieces they used set fire to parts of Arg.

  • Russian flag over the Arg, during1911 Russian invasion.
  • Fire in the Arg due to careless handling of artillery pieces by Russian troops.

Destruction during the Pahlavi era

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During thePahlavi era, parts of the Arg, presumed to have been constructed in the 19th century during the Qajar dynasty, were destroyed. In the process much of the old Ilkhanid and Safavid remnants were also unwittingly destroyed, leaving only a tiny section of the back wall containing themihrab intact. This destruction was with the aim of leaving behind only the original Arg construction, ridding it of its later additions and constructions. Much of the original building was lost in the process. The southern part of the Arg was turned into a park, the "Mellat Garden" (lit.park of the people), before the1979 Iranian revolution.[4]

  • A plan for reconstruction of the Arg's surrounding before the1979 revolution.
  • Mellat Garden in, south of the Ark, before the 1979 revolution.

Destruction by revolutionaries, early 1980s

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In the early 1980s after the suppression of uprising of supporters ofMuslim People's Republic Party against the new establishment of mixing religion and state and neglecting of Azerbaijani minorities,Moslem Malakuti selected Juma of Tabriz as the new Imam. During his tenure in Tabriz, Juma began the destruction of the Arg's Qajar era addendum wall, cultural institutes, andark theater and replaced them with a new mosque for Friday prayers. Some people believe this destruction of local heritage was a systematic destruction of local Azerbaijani identity.[6]

Recent renovation, 1990s-present

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In the 1990s and 2000s, a rehabilitation and renovation project was executed by theIranian Organization for Cultural Heritages. During this rehabilitation, however, all of the remaining Qajar era development from the Arg citadel were destroyed.[citation needed] At the same period, a new big mosque was built next to the Arg citadel. The superstructure of the new mosque undermines the architecture of the Arg citadel.[4] Despite the regulations of the Iranian Organization for Cultural Heritages and several court hearings, the construction of the new structure was completed.

The construction of the mosque completely destroyed the ancient foundations of the original Arg that existed underground and were going to be used for a reconstruction attempt at the end of the Pahlavi era. Thus, the new Islamic regime eliminated any chance of methodical reconstruction by wiping out the remaining foundations of the Arg.[citation needed] Meanwhile, the main prayer hall of the ancient mosque was turned into a car park, in direct violation of the edict of the Koran which considered a mosque's ground to be sacred and inviolable as long as the traces of it remain. It is visually clear that the new car park was created on the remains of the main prayer hall of the 700-year old grand mosque.

Gallery

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  • The Arg, the southern view.
  • The Arg view at night, the southern view.
  • The Arg reconstruction, northern face.
Construction of a new mosque in front of the Arg citadel, 2013

See also

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References

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  1. ^abc"Arg-i Alishah".ArchNet. n.d. Retrieved22 March 2025.
  2. ^"Arg Alishah".Visit Iran.Ministry of Cultural Heritage, Tourism and Handicrafts. 2020. Retrieved22 March 2025.
  3. ^Melville, Charles (1981)."Historical Monuments and Earthquakes in Tabriz".Iran.19.Taylor & Francis:159–177.doi:10.2307/4299714.JSTOR 4299714.
  4. ^abcAjorloo, B.; Babaylou, A.N. (2015)."The Alienation of Qajarid Identity at the Arch of Alishah in Tabriz as the Result of Stylistic Restoration Methods"(PDF).
  5. ^Cronin, Stephanie, ed. (2013).Iranian-Russian Encounters: Empires and Revolutions Since 1800. Routledge. p. 150.ISBN 978-0415624336.
  6. ^ارگ علیشاه ، نماد ایستادگی تبریز میرود که فرو بریزد (in Persian). Archived fromthe original on 2015-12-08. Retrieved2015-06-15.

Further reading

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  • Hillenbrand, Robert (2000).Islamic Architecture: Form, Function, and Meaning. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. pp. 107, 424, 491.
  • O'Kane, Bernard (1995).Studies in Persian Art and Architecture. Cairo: The American University of Cairo. pp. 125–126.
  • Pope, Arthur Upham (1965).Persian Architecture: The Triumph of Form and Color. New York: George Braziller, Inc. pp. 177–179, 231.
  • Wilber, Donald N. (1955).The Architecture of Islamic Iran: The Il Khanid Period. New York: Greenwood Press, Publishers. pp. 146–149.

External links

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Wikimedia Commons has media related toTabriz Citadel.

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