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Long waves on a beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press: 28 March 2006

D. H. Peregrine
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, University of Bristol

Abstract

Equations of motion are derived for long waves in water of varying depth. The equations are for small amplitude waves, but do include non-linear terms. They correspond to the Boussinesq equations for water of constant depth. Solutions have been calculated numerically for a solitary wave on a beach of uniform slope. These solutions include a reflected wave, which is also derived analytically by using the linearized long-wave equations.

Information

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1967 Cambridge University Press

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