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SANYAL & Co., WiTH THE INDIA OF WITH EXTRACTS FROM AND THE CHASAB TRANSLATED AND ANNOTATED BY JADUNATH SARKAR, M.A, OF EKGLJSH LITERATURE, PATNA COLLEGE. ABBREVIATIONS. A.VThe Ain-i-Akbari, trans, by Blochmann and Jarret Ain) (Bibliotheca IndicaV A... The Indian Atlas (see p. 167 . A. & C. Gaz. ...The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer, 4 vols. (Calcutta 1842). Al-Badaoni...The Muntakhabu t~Tawarikh } trans, by Rankini and Lowe (Bibliotheca Indica). Eayley... Gujarat. (W. H. Allen, 1886). C...The Chahar Gulshan Cunningham... History of the Sikhs> 2nd ed., 1853. Dora... History of the Afghans, 2 pts. (O. T. F., 1829-36). Duff- History of the Mahrattas, 3 vols. (1826). Elliot... History of India, by Elliot and Dowson, 8 vols. Ferishta...Briggs's translation, 4 vols. (1829). /. G. or Imp. Gars. ...The Imperial Gazetteer of India , 2nd edition. K...The Khulasatii-t Tawarikh. Y * , \ . . .Letts's Popular Atlas. Malcolm... History of Persia, 2 vols. (1829; m... miles. m...mahals. ... footnote. Rajasthan^ ...Tod's Rajasthan, 2 vols (Indian Publication Society, Tod J Calcutta, 1897-99) Rev. Res. ...The Revenue Resources of the Mughal Empire \ by E. Thomas. Stein... Memoir on Maps of Ancient Kashmir (Asiatic Society of Bengal). Stewart... History of Bengal, (Calcutta, 1847). Tieff. ...Tieffenthaler's Geographic de /' Indoustan (being Vol. I. of Bernoulli's Description de f Inde, Berlin, 1786). IX C H A P T SCOPE AND MATERIALS. Nobody can be more sensible of the imperfections of this book than the author. But he hopes that nobody Author's apology. . , . , _. who knows what it is to translate a Persian work bristling with obscure geographical names from a single and incorrectly transcribed manuscript, will be hard upon him for these imperfections. In antiquities continual supersession is the rule. The path of the Indian antiquarian is, moreover, beset with peculiar difficulties. It is seldom that the requisite materials are all accessible to him. He has to settle the texts of his authorities, few of which have been printed and fewer still edited. He is expected to correct and identify wrongly-spelt proper names, though he has often no second manuscript to collate with the one lying before him. Then, again, he can expect very little help from brother-antiquarians, because the field is large and the labourers few Pandits and Maulavis are of little assistance except in throwing light on the grammar or explaining the pro- bably meaning of the text. They are ignorant of historical criticism ; the usual materials on which the antiquarian works being obscure books and not classics, they arc never studied as text-books or even read for pleasure by our Pandits arid Maulavis. The historical student in India is thrown almost entirely on his own resources. He may, therefore, claim a partial, if not a plenary, pardon for his sins. To expect perfection in such a branch of study is hardly more reasonable than to ask a goldsmith to give a proof of his professional skill by prospecting for gold, digging the mine, extracting and refining the ore, and then making the ornament. Our task is, therefore, often a thankless one. The very nature of the subject precludes any high degree of excellence, at least what would be regarded as excellence by those familiar with the brilliant results achieved by the students of European history ; and the Indian antiquarian for all his pains is rewarded X INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [I. with censure. In spite of the great risk of failure, I have been tempted to step into the field, by the importance of the subject treated here. A contribution to our knowledge of it, thougb im- perfect, may still have its value. The Ain-i-Akban gives "the Administration Report and Statistical Return of Akbar's government as lt was " in IS94 A D '' with a minuteness of aetail and accuracy of information which leave little to be desired. But, for the remaining century and a half during which the Ikjghal Empire lasted, we have no statistical record in English. With the consolidation of the British Power in India we again emerge into light. We have the works of Rennell, Buchanan-Hamilton and other explorers of the early British period. The East India Company was renowned for its liberal patronage of literature dealing with India, and we are in no want of materials for a statistical study of India even before the publication of Hamilton's East India Gazetteer (c. 1830.) There is, thus, a gap in our knowledge of Indian topography and statistics for the period extending from 1595 to 1760 A. D. This gap ought to be filled up, for there is no wajjit of materials for a study of this period from the point of view indicated above First, there are the professed attempts at the description of India made in contemporary Persian works, like the Khulasdtu-t- Tawdrikh and the Chahdr Gulshan* extracts from which have been here translated. Unfortunately, these are the only con- temporary works of the class we need. Elliot names another, the Hadiqatu-l-Aqalim, but it is much later in date. Secondly, M A there arc incidental mentions of facts that are (6) Side-lights, important for our study, in the Persian histories of India. But they are so scattered and the books in which they , occur have been so seldom correctly edited, that I have not been able, within the time at my command, to work these materials up ,with anything like fulness. Indeed, an exhaustive study of 'these side-lights on Indian topography would, in the present state *] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XI of our materials, take up decades. Lastly, we have the works , . _ . of European travellers mostly accessible to our (c) Travels. r y readers, Bernier and Tavernier, Mannucci, and Tieffenthaler. The Geography of Hindustan of the last is very valuable, being based on several Persian topographical works and the author's own observation during his long residence in India ; but its extreme scarcity and French garb* have made it less known in India than Bernier's Trawls. From these works we get, among other things, details of the Mughal revenue which have been embodied by Thomas in his Revenue Resources of the Mughal Empire. Rcnnell's Atlas (Folio, 1781), invaluable as it otherwise is, does not strictly fall into this class. It treats of British India. The Khulasatu-t-tawarikh. Elliot calls the author "Subhan Rai Khattri, an inhabitant of Pattiala." (viii, 5) In the Bengal Asiatic Society's Catalogue of Persian Works> he is named Sujan Rai But on the last page of the Society's MS. D. 156 (which 1 call the A-text), the author's name is spelt carelessly and looks like "Sajan Rai Nahdari.''f Among the pious founders of Batala, our author mentions a "Sujan Singh Qanongo 1 ' (p 85 of my translation), but we cannot know for certain whether that person was the same as our author. His birthplace was mistaken by Elliot for Pattiala, whereas it was really Batala, a town in the Gurdaspur district of the Panjab. (p 83 of translation). From internal evidence the date of composition seems to have been some year between 1695 and 1699 A. D. Date. . (i) On page 12 we read * La Geographic de>l Indouslan^ ecrite en Latir Le Pere Joseph TieiTenthaler, being the ist vol. oft et geographique DE L'INDE," by M. Jean Ber t He is here described as "an inhabitant of Bat: Persian, and Sanskrit learning, and was the absolu 1 epoch in pleasantness of style and literary skill," xii INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [i. intervened between the death of the Saint Mahiu-d-din Abdul Qadir Gilani (in 561 A H.) and , the writing of this book. This gives 1 1 ! i A. H (1699 A. D.) as the date of the work, (ii) On p. 81 we are told that the book was written more than 40 years "after the commencement." If we take the expression to mean the commencement of Aurangzib's reign, the date would be later than 1107 A H. (1695 A. D.) But if it means the commencement of the work of embanking the Ravi at Lahor (in the 4th year of the reign), the date would be 3 years later, i e , 1698 A. D. (iii) On p. 90 we are told that the book was written in the 23rd year of the pontificate of Guru Govind. i. e., in the 4Oth year of Aurangzib's reign (1107 A H., 1695 A D.) Col. Lees writes, "The author brings his narrative down to the end of the year 1107 A. H. It was continued for some years later by another hand " (Elliot viii. 8.) I find that MS. D 156 ends with the death of Auraiigzib, evidently an addition by a copyist. Elliot tells us, "It was written in 1107 A. JT. (,1695-6 A. D) and occupied two years in its composition" (viii 5) and also that the author wrote in the 4Oth year of the reign of Aurangzib. Its style is the corrupt one characteristic of an age of decadence. It is rhetorical without ceasing Style. . to be prosaic ; the embellishments have a tinsel glitter. The author has borrowed certain set phrases which he uses every now and then. Assonance, which is the vice of most Persian writers, degenerates into mere jingle in his hands. Hence the repetitions which in the translation may strike the reader as meaningless "It is a well-known general history. The opening chapters which arc the best portion of the work, give a Scope- good account of the products of Hindustan, and its geography, as known in the time of Aurangzib." The author's account of the early kings of Delhi is brief, and that of the first four Mughal Emperors copious. He has said very little of Shah ,Jahan, and "he closes with the period when Aurangzib has succeeded in getting rid of his rivals and has no longer a com- I]' INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Xlii petitor for the throne." (Elliot, viii, 6.) It is, however, with these opening chapters that we are here concerned. In the MS. used by Elliot (Quarto, 19 lines to the page), they occupy pp.12-99. In the A-text (Folio, 19 lines to the page), they cover 104 pages, - from leaf 6 page 2 line i (which I briefly put as 6 b. i) to leaf 58 page 2 line 12 (which I express by 58. b. i2\ This portion is subdivided in the following manner ; (i) Description of Hindustan, commencing from 6. b. i. (2) The Province of Shah Jahan abaci or Delhi, 17 b. 9 (3) Akbarabad or Agra, 24. b 14. (4) Allahabad, 26. a. 3. (5) Oudh, 27 a. 8. (6) Bihar, 28 a 17. (7) Bengal, 29 . 18. (8) Orissa, 31 . 13. (9) Aurangabad, 32 a 13 (10) Berar, 32 b. 16. (ii) Khandeshu 33 a 17. (12) Malwa, 33 b 12. (13 Ajmir, 34 a 18 (14) Gujrat or Ahmadabad, 35 6.6. (15) Thatha, 37 b. 10. (16) Multan, 38 b 17. (17) Labor, 41 b i. (18) Kashmir, 52 b 5. (19) Kabul, 55 i. 3, ending at 58 b. IT, where the "History of the Kings of Hindus- stan" commences. Of the above, the first chapter of 22 pages (6 b i 17 b 9) gives a general description of Hindustan, its flowers, fruits, sages, and hermits, in a florid and bombastic style. But the account is so vague, so barren of facts, and written in terms of such extravagant praise, that I did not consider it worth printing in my translation The curious will get a sample of it in the -'Description of Hindustan" extracted by Elliot (tiii. 3) from the Mukhtasiru t Tawartfsh, which is identical in language with the account given by the Khulasat The description of the Sub ah of Kabul, occupying 6 pages of the A-tcxt, has also been omitted from my translation, as Kabul is outside the geographi- cal limits of India. My translation, therefore, covers nearly 76 pages of the text, or exactly 1438 lines In the account of each of the 17 Subahs here translated, our - , . author first describes, more or less fully, the Heads of information. chief towns, holy places, and other interesting localities of the province, with the lives of its saints. Then comes an account of the chief manufactures, crops, and rivers ; and last of all the boundaries of the province, the names of XIV INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [I. its chief districts ( Sarkars ), the number of its subdivisions (mahals] and its revenue in dam ( ?V f a rupee. ) The des- criptions of the towns are in many cases borrowed from the Ain-i-Akbari either verbatim or in a modified form. But in several instances, notably in the province of the Panjab, our author supplements the Ain-i- Akbari with original information. As he was a native of the Fanjab, he naturally gives an original account of it ; but the farther we proceed from the Panjab the more does he draw on the Ain } till at length his accounts of provinces like Bengal, Orissa, and Kashmir, become mere transcripts of the Am. In the century that intervened between the Ain and the Khulasat, changes Occurred in the Mughal Empire, and many of them have been embodied by our author ; but, unfortunately, the expansion of the Mughal Empire under Aurangzib finds no statistical record in the Khulasat. Possibly the statistics of the newly annexed Subahs had not yet been compiled, or probably they were not accessible to our author, though the author of the Chahar Gulshan, writing half a century later, used them. Where the Khulasat supplies any additional information, I shall notice it in my detailed account of the several Subahs. The names of the Sarkars, the numbers of the mahals, and the amount of the revenue, as given by oul author, enable us to institute an interesting comparison with the Ain, that is, to make a comparative study, however rude and incomplete, of the India of Akbar (1594 A. D) and the India of Aurangzib (1695 A. P.). The Asiatic Society of Bengal has two manuscripts of this work, numbered respectively D. 156 andD. 157 in the Catalogue of Persian Books. The former (which I call the A -text ^ was copied a on the loth of the month of Zi-qada in the 9th year of the reign of Muhammad Shah [1728 A.D.] at the time of the feast of Nau-roz in the evening of Saturday" (Colophon) It is a thick folio volume, 19 lines to the page, transcribed in a legible hand and fairly correct, though omissions and errors (especially in the spelling of proper names) I] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XV occur on almost every page. The more important of these have been noticed in the foot-notes of my translation. The second manuscript, D. 157, (which I designate the B-text), is a modern copy, incomplete, full of mistakes, and so badly written as to be hardly legible ; most of the proper names in it are incomprehen- sible, as the dots have been omitted. It has, however, been of use in supplying the more important of the omissions in the A-text. The Bankipur Oriental Library of Khan Bahadur Khuda Bukhsh Khan has a MS.* of this work, but it is incorrect, without rubrics, and written in a hurried and careless hand. This fact, coupled with my want of leisure, prevented me from using it in collating the text. The Chahar Gulshan. "This work, which is also known as Aklibdru-l-Nawddir (Accounts of Rare Things , was composed by Author. T. . / - >1 .__., Tr . . / . . Rai Chatar Man Kayath in the year 1173 AH. (1759 A.D.), the last sheets being finished only a week before his death. As it was left in an unconnected shape, it was arranged and edited, after his death, by his grandson, Rai Bhan Rai Raizada in 1204 A. H. (1789 A.D ) The editor has added nothing to his grandfather's labours." (Elliot, viii. 255). ^ n * ne Preface of the Khuda Bukhsh MS the editor is, however, named "Chandar Bhan Munshi Kayath Saksina (?), entitled RAizida." In the (lithographed) Persian Catalogue of Khuda Bukhsh, the author is described as ' l Ri Chatar Man R&i, of the tribe of Kdyath Sakina, who was in the service of Ghaziu-d-din Khan, Wazir of the Empire, 3 ' and the date of com- Date* position is given as 1173 AH. On the last page of this MS. we read that the book records Indian history down to the reign of the Emperor Mahiu-d-din Shah Jahan the * It is thus described in his Persian Catalogue of Oriental Works, "Written in the Nasta'liq hand, neatly but with many mistakes, the first page gilt, with borders of vermillion,on Kashmiri paper, copied in the year 1234 A H." (1818 A.D.) XVI INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [i. Second, who "increased the splendour of the throne in the year 1173 A.H., with the help of the Wazir of the Empire, Ghaziu-d- din Khan alias Shahdbu-d din Khan, at the time of the second invasion of Ahmad Shah Abdali " The style is terse and precise. The sentences are short and simple, some of them being without verbs. The whole work looks like a set of notes reduced to the smallest compass, rather than a finished treatise. It is refreshing to meet with a writer free from that ''indirection of speech" which was considered a merit in Persian compositions and that vague rhetorical display and pretence which disgusts us in so many minor writers. The Chahar Gulshan or "Four Gardens" is a condensed history of India, with descriptions and statistics of the several provinces and the lives of holy men. The following is an analysis of the work.* I. The kings of Hindustan (N India) from Judhishthira to Shah Jahan the Second (,1759 A.D.), with a statistical account of the several Subahs, their chief towns, forts, rivers, rulers, and saints : (i) DELHI 3. a 14 its kings 3 b. 4 Saints 21 a 10 -Hindu Shrines 36 b. 5 Melas 37 b 4- Chhattars 39 a. 5 Rivers and canals 39 b. n Mines 40 b. 6 Statistics of the province 41 a. 4 Detailed statistics of the Sarkars 41 b I. (2) AGRA 42 a It* rulers and saints a 5 Forts, buildings, &c 44 a. i Hindu shrines a. 12 Rivers 44 b. 12 Mines 45 a. 9 Provincial statistics a. 13 Delailed statistics of the Sarkars 45 b. 4 (3). PAN JAB 46 a. 7 its kings a. 15 Saints 46 b. i Hindu Shrines 47 a. 9 Forts and buildings 47 b. 14 * The leaves are numbered as in the Khnda Bukhsh MS, Each page has 15 short lines as a rule, but the statistical figures are written in a finer hand and then more lines are put in the page, some of them being written crosswise, In such cases I have not given the' exact number of the line (which is some- times impossible to determine), but the number which the line would have had from its position if the page contained the usual 1 5 lines only. The reader will thus be able to see at a glance in what portion of a page a certain line is situated. Ij INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Mosques and gardens 48 a. 9 Doabs and rivers 48 b. 7 Mines 49 a. 7 Provincial Statistics a. 12 Detailed Stat. 49 b. 3 (4) MULTAN, 50 a. i its rulers*. 8 Saints 50*. 3Forts 51 b. 2 r Prov. Stat. b. 6 Detailed Stat. 51 a. 13. (5) THATHA, 52 a, g its kings and Jdms 52 b. 9 Prov. Stat 53 #. 8 Detailed Stat *. 13. '6) KASHMIR, 53 b. 4. its kings b n Lakes, hills, shrines and springs 56 a. 12 Mines and rivers 57 b. 10 Prov. Stat. 58 a. 4 Detailed Stat. a. 13. (7) ORISSA, 58 b. 2. Saints b. 7 Temples b. 8- Prov. Stat. 60 a. I. Detailed Stat. a. 8. (8) BENGAL, 60 a. 12 its rulers 60 b. 8 its divisions and neighbouring countries 62 a. 2 Prov. Stat. 63 a. 4 Detailed Stat a. \\ Rivers 63 b. 6. (9) BIHAR 63 b. n Kings and Saints b. 14 Rivers 64 *. 1 5 Hindu Shrines 64 b 13 Provincial Stat. b. 15 Detailed Stat. 65 #. 5. (10) ALLAHABAD, 65 & 2 Kings . 6 Saints b. 10 Hindu holy places 67 a. 2 Forts 67 i. 2 Mines . 7 Prov. Stat. b. 13 -Detailed Stat. 68*. 6. (11) OUDH, 68*. 7- Holy tombs 69 a. 2 Kings and Saints a. 7 Hindu holy places a, ii other towns 69 b. 3 Prov. Stat. b. 7 Detailed Stat. 70 a i. (12) AJMIR, 70 a. 10 Kings and Saints a 13 Forts and mines 71 a 2 Prov. Stat. 72 a. 7 -Detailed Stat a 13. U3) GujRAT, 72 b. 12 Kings and Saints 73 a. 6 Hindu holy places 74 b. ii Cities 75 b. 2 Prov. Stat. 76 a. 8 Detailed Stat. 76 b. 2 (14) MALWA, 77 a. i Kings a. 5 Cities 79 b. I Prov. Stat. 80 a. ii Detailed Stat. 80^.4. (15) Kabul, 81 a. Swad 84 a i to a 12. II An account of the Five Subahs of the Deccan, with their rulers, saints, chief towns, forts, and Hindu Book II. holy places. The Deccan, 84 a. 13 (16) BERAR, 84 b. n Provincial Statistics 85 b. Detailed Stat 86 a. 3. (17) KHANDESH 86 a. 14 -Prov. Stat 87 b. 6 Detailed Stat. b. 9. (18) AURANGABAD, 87 b. 13 Prov. Stat. 88 <z. 13 Detailed Stat. 88 b. i. Crops 88 b. (19) BijAPUR, 89 a. 3 Prov. Stat. 90 b. 14 Detailed Stat. 91 a. i Nagarkot fort a. 8. Revenue in money a. 14. (20) HAIDARABAD, 91 b. 2 Conquest of Golconda 92 a. 8 Prov. Stat. 94 a. 5 Detailed Stat. a. 10 B XVili INDIA OF AURANGZ1B. [L (21) BlDAR, 94 b. ii Prov. Stat 95 a. 7 Detailed Stat, a. 10 Industries and fruits a, 15 The SULTANS of the Deccan 96 a. i. The FORTS of Aurangabad 116 b. 2 of Khandesh and Berar 117 a. 7 of Bidar a 10 of Bijapur a. 12 of Haidarabad 117 b. 14 The SAINTS of the six Subahs of the Deccan nS a. 6 Hindu shrines, Springs, and Rivers 119 a. 10 to 120 a. 11. III. The Distances and Stages, or a ROAD-BOOK showing B kill t ^ le sta S es on th e roads leading from Delhi to the different chief towns of India. 120 a. 12 to 125 a. 15. IV. An account of the Hindu FAQIRS including the Sikh Gurus, the last in the list being the successor of Ajit Singh, 125 b. \ to the end of the book. The book contains "so much information in a small compass that it resembles the ocean placed in a cup. The histori cal part is a mere abstract, and of no value ; but the work has other points of interest, especially in the matter of the Biographies of the Muham- madan saints, which arc written in a true spirit of belief, though the writer is a Hindu. The accounts of the Hindu fakirs, the Itineraries, and the Statistical Tables of the 22 Subas arc also useful, though it is to be regretted that the latter are not given in sufficient detail to enable us to institute safe comparisons between its results and those given in the Ain-i-Akbari" (Elliot viii, 25S-) The topographical notices in Bk. I. are mostly a repetition of the corresponding portions of the Ain-i- Akbari, though necessarily in an abbreviated form. I have, therefore, merely given the names of the places in my translation, without quoting the descriptions in full. But in some places additional information is supplied, and every such item I have translated. The details of fairs, amusements, and other things, which are mostly vague and rhetorical, have been omitted by me. Nor have I translated the dry and short chronicles of the kings, or disturbed !] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XIX the holy repose of the saints* in the pages of my authority. My translation of Bk.I. is thus an abridged one, though the statistical and topographical points the only materials of value have been given with sufficient fulness. Bk. II. has been translated almost fully, though some of the topographical notices in the chapters on Aurangabad and Berar arc merely copied from the A in and the Khulasat. The accounts of the kings and saints have again been omitted, as also the history of the siege of Golconda, because the siege of Bijapur, here translated in full, forms a good specimen of this kind of composition. In both these Books, the detailed statistical tables of the S^tbahs have presented an insurmountable difficulty,-)- They are evidently written by a T^t takeS ^ th P erson other than thc transcriber of the rest of the book, and in a very small and illegible hand. Moreover, though the headings ( Sarkar,' 'Area,' 'Revenue' &c are put down in every column, yet in several cases the names of the Sarkars and the figures for the area and revenue are not given, the spaces being left blank. Then, again, the numbers are not ex- pressed by numerals, but by Arabic letters which represent figures according to the system called raqam\ In the Khuda Bukhsh MS. one particular word-figure has puzzled me. It does not correspond to any of the figures given in the Muktab-nama, but looks like 3 and 7 joined into one. This letter seems to have been written over and altered by some other hand after it was first put down. In his statistics, our author first gives the total area, revenue, &c. of each Subah (province) written fully in words, and then in the detailed account (tafsil-i-sarkdrdn) the separate area, revenue &c of each of the Sarkars (divisions) composing the Subah, But these latter when added together do not always agree with the provincial total given above in the same chapter, I have * Except in the case of Shaikh Mina, the patron saint of Lucknow, of whom the Am (Vol. III.) gives no account. t Thomas has noticed a similar discrepancy between the Provincial total and the taqsim-jama in the Dastur al-Amal (Rev. Res. pp 40 and 41). $ Thomas, Rev. Res. p. 45 XX INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [l. in every case pointed this out in my notes within square brackets at the end of each chapter in my translation of the Chahar Gulshan. The lists of the forts of the Deccan have been given in full, but only a few of these 260 places have been iden- FO De S ccfn tlie tified > because * had n t the "Indian Atlas" sheets for the Deccan with me, and also be- cause when a name was found on the Map similar to one in my text, I could not know whether it ever was a fort. Then, again, several places were found bearing the same or similar names, and in the corrupt state of my text I could not decide which of them was the place intended. Tieffenthaler gives lists of the forts of the Deccan They agree in many points with the lists of my authority, but differ from the latter in number and sometimes in names. Hence I conclude that both Chatar Man and Tieffenth- aler borrowed their lists from the same (unnamed) Persian work, the one with more and the other with less fulness. I have put the two lists side by side in my account of the Deccan, In the Road-book (Book ill) we have 10 pages containing tables of the stages in the roads leading from Road-book. ^ ... ^ . . . . r . T . Delhi to various other cities of the kmpirc, such as Bijapur, Atak, Kabul, Patna, Agra, Srinagar &c. I have reproduced the tables without any change, because, though each column is easy enough to follow, it is not very clear what is meant by the entries on the two sides or by the numerals used in some places. The latter evidently mean distance in kos from the last stage, but all the distances are not given. The Fourth Book has not been translated at all. It will be thus seen that the 2nd and 3rd Books are of the greatest value to us. They supply such in- r g formation as we cannot have from any other source. The same may be said of the Statistical Tables in Book I. also. Unfortunately these tables are in some cases evidently incorrect and in some others incomplete. I had no materials for supplying the omissions or rectifying the errors. Hence a comparison with the Ain would not be absolutely correct, I.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XXI Still, the Chahar Gulshan is of far greater value to us than the Khulasat. Though written in 1759 its statis- ti?tlcal < TalSes Sta tics are evi dently of an earlier date, having been probably borrowed from some Dastur-al- Amal (Revenue Manual) of about 1720 A. D The author states that he cannot give the statistics of Bijapur and Haidarabad, "as Nizamu-1-mulk Asaf Jah during his viceroyalty carried away with himself the papers of every one of the six divisions of the Deccan." (p. 156) Asaf Jah first set up the standard of indepen- dence in the Deccan in 1720 A. D. Hence 1720 is the upward limit of the date of these statistics. In 1759, when the Chahar Gulshan was completed, the Empire of Delhi was a name only ; the true Emperor was a fugitive ; the Marathas had been enjoy- ing much of the Deccan since 1716, and in 1725 they first crossed the Narbada under Baji Rao ; the Panjab had been ceded to Ahmad Shah Durani eight years before. The statistics of this work obviously belong to a period when the whole Mughal Empire was still intact, the Emperor of Delhi still reigned in fact, and the provincial revenues were still paid into the Imperial Exchequer. The Chahar Gulshan^ therefore, shows us the Mughal Empire as it was about 1720 A D. I had unfortunately to translate this work without any critical apparatus of the text. Though Elliot says that the Chahar Gulshan is common in India, I could not procure a second copy. The Asiatic Society of Bengal does not possess it. The only copy that I could get was the one in Khan Bahadur Khucla Bukhsh Khan's Oriental Library (Patria.) It has been neatly transcribed on Kashmiri paper, with a gilt front-page, by a man who was more remarkable for the beauty of his penmanship than the soundness of his Persian scholarship. Mistakes are numerous. In several places, esp. in the case of proper names (such as the towns which form, the boundaries of Suba/is), he has left blank spaces, as if he failed to make out the original which he transcribed. The copy is an octavo volume of 160 leaves, with 15 lines to the page, (except INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [l, in the case of the statistical tables, when more lines arc compressed into a page.) Elliot mentions a MS. of 560 quarto pages with 13 lines to the page. Before I could translate these two works, I had to edit them. Emendation and I first copied out the MSS. and settled and Translation. punctuated the texts, reading them with a Maulavi. Then I turned them into English, corrected the spelling of proper names, and elucidated obscure passages. In the latter work, Jarrett's translation of the Ain-i-Akbari (vol ii, and Dr. Stein's Memoir on Maps of Ancient Kashmir have been of the greatest service to me. The former, though inaccurate in some minute points (as I have pointed out in my notes), has been my guide all through the description of Hindustan, not only on ac- count" of the A in having been the basis of the topographical notes of these two Persian works, but also on account of the scholarly notes of Col. Jarrett. Of Dr. Stein's Memoir it is impossible to speak too highly. But for it, the Persian accounts of Kashmir would have remained hopelessly obscure and confused. The Imperial Gazetteer of India (2nd Edition) was at my elbow while writing the notes. I have added a marginal analysis to the Khulasat but not to ^ ^ the Chahar Guls/ian* as the latter is very much Annotation. t 1 J shorter and more condensed. In the foot notes I have tried with the help of modern sources of information and maps to throw light on the topography of Mughal India and to identify the places mentioned. In the latter work I have been only partly successful, as the corrupt condition of my texts made it impossible to Romanize correctly many of the proper names. I had to leave out, for want of space, much interesting matter, such as a contrast between then and now as regards the condition of particular places, old legends, &c ; but I have given references to other works which will guide the curious. * The differentiation of the types (the antique being employed in the head- ings of my translation) will, I hope, supply this omission in the case of the Chahar Gulshan, J.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. In the work of identifying old places, which has been done with different degrees of success in different parts, the following Atlases were before me : (i) Sheets marked ^Letts^s Popular Atlas" bound in one volume with the title of "Chatterjee's School Atlas" (George Gill & Sons, London, 1891 ) They are drawn on a scale of 35 miles to the inch, being neither too large nor too small for my purpose. Except for the representation of elevations forests &c. by colours and later additions (esp. railway lines), these sheets are identical with (2) "the Atlas of India, revised by J. Walker, selected from the Maps published under the superintendence of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge" (Edward Stanford, London, 1853). This latter work has also been used by me, inasmuch as it is the oldest large scale map of India and makes, of all the good maps we have, the nearest approach to the India of the Mughals. (3) That most useful publication, the Indian Atlas issued by the Surveyor-General of India on a scale of 4 miles to the inch, is so costly that one cannot complete Hindustan even after spending a hundred rupees. When it failed me, Letts's Atlas was consulted, sometimes with good results. (4) A very finely executed Atlas of Southern India (printed by John Walker, London, and issued by Pharoah and Co., Madras, c. 1854), on a scale of 16 m. to the inch, might have supplied my want of the Indian Atlas sheets for S. India. But the hopelessly illegible spelling of names in the Second Book of the Chahar Gulshan made it useless to me. (5) The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer ( 4 vols , pub. by Rushton & Co., Calcutta, 1842), contains District maps of as much of Northern India as was then in British possession. But these plates have little to add to Letts's Atlas, which is a fuller, though later work. (6) Rennell's Bengal Atlas (Folio, 1781), though consulted, has been of only limited use, because it deals with Bengal and Bihar, of which provinces our authors Sujan Rai and Chatar Man, living up-country, had a very meagre and evidently second-hand knowledge. XXIV INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [l. The Itinerary or Road-book is the most valuable part of the Chahar Gulshan. Of the main routes of Mug- Boad-book. hal India we know something from Bernier, Tavernier, and Tieffenthaler, and the materials thus derived have been utilised in one of my own chapters. Elliot's translations from the Persian histories of India and Lowe's translation of Al-Badaoni, vol. II., throw side-lights on the stages and main lines of the old roads. But great as the value of Elliot's work is as a guide to the Muhammadan historians of India, it is not always reliable in its details, especially in the case of obscure proper names. Nearly all the histories which Elliot and Dowson dealt with were in unedited MSS., and the encyclopaedic charac- ter of their work prevented minute attention to all its parts. For the purposes of a road-book, howover. minute accuracy in the spelling and identification of the names of places is of the utmost importance. Elliot has not tried to trace out all the places mentioned in his history, nor has he given their names in Persian characters as Briggs has done in the Appendix to his translation of Ferishta ; vol. iv. ). Such a course might in many cases have helped us to discover the correct name by tentatively varying the dots. Hence I have not been able to derive as much information from Elliot and Lowe as can be wished for. Rennell's Bengal Atlas is prefaced by a road- book* which, unfortunately, affords no help in elucidating the Chahar Gulshan, as the routes are different in the two works. The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer^ Vol. n. Pt. I., has one invaluable "Indian Road-book" covering 229 pp. and another (entitled "the Bengal and Agra Road-book") covering 37 pp., with an addi- tional 19 pp., a total of 285 pages, containing detailed information about the distances between the stages, and the nullahs^ bazars, toll-gates, ferries, wells, tanks, &c. on the route. From this source we get a good account of the main roads, before the old order * The copy of Rennell's Atlas in the Library of the Asiatic Society of Bengal is wanting in this road-book. II.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB : EXTENT. XXV had altogether disappeared from India, before railways were introduced, before the British dominions had extended beyond the Sutlej and the vast changes wrought by the annexation of the Panjab Sind and Burma and the Sepoy Mutiny, had taken place, CHAPTER II. THE MUGHAL EMPIRE : ITS EXTENT. When in 1580, the 25th year of Akbar's reign, "the ten years' settlement of the revenue was made, His Majesty apportioned the Empire into twelve divisions, to each of which he gave the name of Subah and distin- guished them by the appellation of the tract of country or its capital city. These were Allahabad, Agra, Oudh, Ajmir, Ahma- dabad [*.*., Gujrat], Behar, Bengal, Delhi, Kabul, Lahor, Multan, Malwah : and when Berar, Khandesh, and Ahmadnagar, were conquered, their number was fixed <& fifteen" ( Am. ii. 115 ) The above list omits Kashmir, which was conquered in 1586. In the detailed account of the 15 Subahs given in the Ain, vol. II, no mention is made of Ahmadnagar, but Kashmir is added to com- plete the tale of 15 Subahs. In the Chahar Gulshan Ahmadnagar is included in the Subah of Aurangabad ( see p. 151. ) We may, therefore, conclude that Ahmadnagar did not form a Subah by itself. It should also be noted here that in Abul Fazl's time Orissa and Thatha were included in Bengal and Multan res- pectively, though they were afterwards constituted into separate provinces. Indeed, even Abul Fazl himself in the detailed account of the Subahs speaks of Thatha as a Subah and not Sarkar (Ain.\\.^g.} Akbar's 15 Subahs valent to 17 Subahs of later times. By 1695 this number had increased to the additional Subah (Khulasat). By 17 the date of the records preserved in number reached the maximum of 21, the ] Bijapur, Haidarabad, and Bidar. XXVI INDIA OF AURANGZIB : EXTENT. [IL The following table will exhibit the numbers of the Sarkars Sarkars and ( divisions of a province ) and Mahals ( sub- Mahals- , divisions ) in the three periods* named above. I, have omitted Kabul for the reasons already stated, Number of Sarkars Number of Mahals Subahs, in A.D. in A.D. IS94 1695 1720 1594 1695 I72O I. Delhi 8 8 12 237 229 ' 248 2. Agra 13 H 12 262 268 254 3. Allahabad ... 10 16 17 177 247 269 4. Oudh 5 S 5 133 197 149 5. Bihar 7 8 8 200 240 252 6. Bengal 19 27 28 688 1109 J243 7. Orissa 5 IS? 12 99 233 258 8. MaKva 12 12 II 301 309 259 9. Ajmir 7 7 8 197 123 23,* 10. Gujrat . 9 9 10 138 188 256 II. Multan 3 3 4 88 96 u'3 12. Thatha 5 4 - 4 53 58 . 60 13. Panjab 5 5 5 232 316 329 14. Berar I3t 10 10 242 200 20O 15. Khandesh ... i 5? i 32 112 133 16. Kashmir i i 7 38 4 6 75 17. Aurangabad . . . 8 ii 80 116 1 8. Bijapur is! ii-4j 19. Haidarabad ... , 12 96 20. Bidar - 4 54 Total 123 IS7 196 3.117 4,051 4,716 * The figure? for the third period are the Provincial Totals marked /P* , in the- notes to my translation. ? indicates that the figures are of doubtful accuracy. t The Atn, in the preliminary statement, gives the number of Sarkars as 16 and that of mahals as 242; but in the detailed account only 13 Sarkars 'are named and the mahals of these 13 make up the total of 242. t These two figures are supplied from the Dastur-al-amal (D. 163) as the / d Culshan is silent on this point. It.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB : EXTENT. XXVii We thus see that side by side with the outward expansion of the Empire caused by the annexation of new r Empire. territory, an expansion which is represented by the increase in the number of Suba/is^-" there was going on an internal growth in the old provinces. -They were brought more under control, administration became more systematized, and sub-division of territory became more minute- ly developed. Thus, taking the same number of Subahs yviz, 16) as the basis of our comparison, we find that Akbar's 123 Sarkars had increased in a century to 149, and 25 years later to 154 SarkarS) while his 3117 mahals increased to 3971 in 1695 A.D. and to 4336 in 1720 A.D Including the newly acquired territory, the total number of Sarkars rose from 123 to 157 and 196, and that of mahals from 3,117 to 4,051 and 4.716 in 1695 an d 1720 A.D. respectively. We shall see later on that changes were continually going on in the extent of the Subahs, A Subah of Constant changes. ^ . , . , 1695 was not identical in extent with the Subah of 1594 bearing the same name, though the two had much in common. Sarkars were taken away from one province and attached to another, to suit new administrative needs, just as in British India, we see now and then a sub division taken away from one district and merged into another, or even a district transferred from one province to another. In this respect, as in many others, our present has its roots deep down in our past. It will be thus seen that the Mughal administration was not of a stereotyped character, it had not much of 'Chinese immobility, 1 It showed the same elasticity that characterises, arid must char- acterise, every system that lasts centuries. This administrative development is still more strikingly illus- Area of measured trated b ^ the incrcase in the area (mqba) of land. measured land (zamin-i paimuda) Unfortu- nately, the Khulasat is silent on this point, and so our comparison must be between the India of 1594 and the India of 1720, and even in this it must be limited to those Subahs of which the xxviii INDIA OF AURANGZIB : EXTENT. fn. statistics are available. In the following table the area of mea- sured land is given in bighas and bisuas (a bisua being one-twenti- eth of a bigha.) The Chahar Gulshan gives the "measured land" for Orissa as 9,01,26,259 bighas, a figure so obviously incorrect that I have suggested an emendation in my table. Subahs. Area in bighas Area in bighas in 1 594 A D. in 1720 A. D. i. Delhi 2,05,46,81616 6,9356,572 18 2. Agra 2,78,62,18918 5,58.79,2072 3. Allahabad ... 39,68,0183 i,97,03,9 8 3i5 4. Oudh 1,01,71,180 1,90,22,908 5. Bihar 24,44,120 1,31,52,84416 6. Bengal . . . 3,34775 7. Orissa * * [91,26,259?] 8. Malwa 4266,2216 1,29,64,538 9. Ajmir 2,14,35,9417 1,74,09,684 10. Gujrat 1,69,36,3773 1,27,49,3746 11. Multan 32,73,932-4 44,54,20615 12. Thatha ... 13. Pan jab 1,61,55,6433 2,43,19,960 14. Berar 2,00,28,10013 15. Khandesh ... ... 88,00,000 1 6 1 6. Kashmir ... ... Total for 16 Subahs 12,70,60,440 27,81,76,1561* 17. Aurangabad ... 2,55,70,950-9 1 8, Bijapur ... 19. Haidarabad ... ... 20. Bidar ... 78,72,19410 Grand total ... ... 31,16,19,301 * We thus see that in the 16 Indian provinces of Akbar the Progress of Land area of measured land rose from 12,70,60,440 Survey. bighas to 27,81,76,156^ bighas, an increase of nearly 119 p. c. Not only were provinces left unsurveyed by Akbar such as the newly conquered Bengal, Orissa, Berar, * Excluding the area of Orissa given within square brackets. IH.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB : REVENUE. XXIX and Khandesh, -surveyed for the first time during the interven- ing 125 years, but progress was also made in the survey of the older provinces, the result being an increase of the measured area in every province except Ajmir and Gujrat. If we include the four provinces annexed to the Empire last of all, we have for 1720 A. D., a total surveyed territory of 31,16,19,301 bighas as against 12,70,60,440 bighas in 1594 A. D. CHAPTER III. THE MUGHAL EMPIRE : ITS REVENUE. Mr. E. Thomas gives us seven different estimates of the reve- Thomas's Esti- nue of the Mughal Empire between 1594 and mates. I7O7 His first authority is the Ain-i-Akbari (1594), his second the Badshah-nama (1648), his third and fifth the Dastur-al-amals (revenue manuals) of 1654 and a later and unknown date, his fourth Bernier (1665), his sixth Mannucci (1697), and his seventh Ramusio in Harris's Voyages (1707). From these I have chosen the first and the fifth Dastur-al-amal f . . . . c for comparison with the revenue returns fur- nished by the Khutasat (1695) and the Chakar Gulshan (1720), because they are based on official records, as my two authorities are, though Thomas makes little of the former and prefers "to rely upon external testimony rather than upon the formal papers of the servants of the State : these latter usually refer to a given assessment or settlement of the land revenue for a term of years, without marking in an/ distinct way the incidental fluctuations of absolute collections, the loss of territory, or the spread of conquest whereas a competent witnes^ at head quarters [ like any of the European travellers] would be in a position to obtain exact infor- mation of the actual income for the current year, as it was reported, on immediate realization from the various divisions of the empire."* But the authors of the Khulasat and the Chakar Gulshan wrote far away from the capital ; hence, their source of information must * The Revenue Resources of the Mughal Empire^ pp. 40 and 41. XXX I3TDIA OF AURANGZIB r REVENUE. [ill, have bfeen official records like the Dastur-alamal. Their returns partake of the character of these official records in being "definite and distinct in their totals." A* comparison of their figures with those of foreign observers 'at head-quarters" would not be fair. I am, also, inclined to assign a later date than Thomas, say 1700 A. b., to the Dastur-al-amal MS. C. ( Thomas, p. 41 ), because the figures supplied by it make a close approximation to those of the Chahar Gulshan and evidently belong to a period when the newly conquered Siibahs of the Deccan had been fully settled. Thomas, writing in 1871, had Glad win's translation of the Ain-t-Akbari before htm, as is evident also from his footnotes - In compiling my column of revenue for 1594 I have followed Jarrett's translation, converting the dams into rupees,* with the following modifications and corrections : (1) For Berar, the A in (ii. 231) gives a total revenue of 64,26,03,272 dams. But by adding together the revenues of the f 3 Sarkars of the province we get a total of 64,60,07,264 dams. The former slim has been accepted as the difference between the two is slight ( Rs. 85,099-12 10 only.) (2) In the revenue of the Panjab, Jarrett has dropped the final zero in the rupee equivalent of the dams (ii. 315). (3) In the revenue of Multan the rupee equivalent of the dams is 3785 ; 090 and not 3,78,590 as given by Jarrett (ii. 328.) But by adding together the taqsimjama of the Sarkars we get a total pro- vincial revenue of 20,16,75,418 dams (Rs. 50,41,885), which I have adopted. Thomas, however, raises the a*mount to 38,40,30,589 dams. ( Rev. Res. p. 13). (4) The total revenue of Thatha is given as 66,15,593 dams. This is evidently incorrect, because the taqsimjama of the Sarkars amount to 6,62,51,393 dams (ii. 339.) I have accepted the latter sum. '(5) The revenue of Kashmir is explicitly given as 6,21,13,040 * In converting dams into rupees in the following tables I have taken every fraction above 12 ann^s as an entire rupee. III.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB : REVENUE. dams (ii. 368) ; but oh the preceding page we are told that Kazi Ali's revenue was 746,70,411 dams and Asaf Khan's assessment less than that amount by 8,60,034 dams. This ought to yield a revenue of 7,33,10,377 dams (Rs. 18,45,259-6-10.) I had, however, to accept the first-mentioned sum. Hence, my figures for Akbar's revenue will be found to differ somewhat from those given by Thomas. His total of Akbar's revenue excluding Kabul is Rs. 13.38,38,552 against my Rs. 13,21,36,831 for the same number of provinces. In the column for the Dastur-al amal, MS. C., I have followed pp. 42 and 43 of Thomas and not pp. 52 and Dastur, MS. 0. Ar . L _ r t , ;! 53, as some of the figures of the latter pages unaccountably differ from those given in the former. In all subsequent quotations from this source, pp, 42-aud 43 will be followed in preference to pp 52 and 53 of Thomas. In the column for the C/ia/iar Gulshan, the revenue of every Subah is the rupee equivalent of the provincial total in dams and . .not of the taqsim jama of the Sarkars added together. In the 'case of Bijapur, however, I have given the "collection in. cash" (p. 156) Kabul, Qandhar, Badakhshan, and Balkh have been left out of my calculations, as they arc outside the frontiers of India. XXXlt INDIA OF AURANGZIB : REVENUE. REVENUE IN RUPEES IN A. D. [III. 1594 1695 1700 ? 1720? C/ ft/* 1 t (Ain-i-Akbari) (Khulasat) (Dastur-al* (Chahar tjuuuns amal Gulshan) MS. C.) I. Delhi 1,50,40,389 1,86,58,375 3,05,73,753 2,64,65,892 2. Agra 1,36,56,257 2,45,45,000 2,40,29,175 2,24,16,110 3. Allahabad 53,10,695 94,01,525 1,05,33,673 72,55,806 4. Oudh 50,43,954 66,13,500 69,89,490 83,10,015 5. Bihar 55,47,985 95,18,250 73,58,6i3 94,60,434 6. Bengal 1,18,18,167 J, i ',72,500 i,3,i5,903 1,40,72,725 7. Orissa 3i,43,3i6 1,01,02,625 43,21,025 8. Malwa 60,17,376 92,25,425 1,02,08,667 90,04,593 9. Ajmir 72,10,039 1,38,84,000 i,5o,74,5oo 1,75,29,829 10. Gujrat 1,09,20,557 1,45,94,750 1,34,13,125 i3 2 >57,233 H. Multan 50,41,885 6i,i5,375 49,95,057 45,90,786 12. Thatha 16,56,285 23.74 2 5o 17,20,025 I7i32,938 13* Panjab 1,39,86,460 2,23,34,500 2,23,2^,985 1,45,29,765 14. Berar 1,60,65,082 1,51,81,750 2,31,63,625 2,25,60,000 15. Khandesh 1,13,82,35$ 1,10,90,475 1,05,00,000 1,15,00,750 1 6. Kashmir 15,52,826 31,57,125 69,47,784 53,20,502 17. Aurangabad 1,29,07,000 2,95,93,375 2,95,00,002 1 8. Bijapur _- 5,63,68,178 3,36,84,771 19. Haidarabad 2,^0,70,875 2,73^20,875 20. Bidar "~ 2,05,13,750 1,55,13,750 Total 13,21,36,831 20,12,76,425 33,68,16,584 29,40,76,776 Total Revenue. We may make a further study by comparing the total revenue of India proper at all the dates mentioned by Thomas with the totals supplied by the Khulasat and the Chahar Gulshan. The authorities are cited within brackets after the years : 1594 (Ain-i-Akbari) ... 1648 (Badshah-nama)... 1654 (Dastur-al amal) 1665 ? (Bernier) ... Rs. 1 3, 2 r, 36,8 3 1 (for 16 Subahs.) 2 1, 1 5,00,000 ( 19 ) n ' 6,35,12,752 ( 18 22,06,70,500 ( 1 8 11 1695 '(Khulasat) 1697 (Mannucci) I7op?(/?<w/wr, MS. C.)... 1707; (Ramusio) 1720 f(C$akar Gulsfian) 20,12,76,425 ( 17 ! 38,30,39552 ( 21 33,68,16,584 ( 20 29,77,70,876 ( 20 29,40,76,776 ( 19 omitting Bengal.) ) omitting Bengal.) ) ) omitting Orissa.) DELHI.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. CHAPTER IV. THE PROVINCES : 1 DELHI Under Akbar this province extended 165 kos in length from Palwal to Ludhiana, and 140 kos in breadth from the frontier of Rewari to Kumaon, or 130 kos from Hissar to Khizrabad. (A in. ii. 278) The Khulasat and the Chakar Gulshan merely repeat the above description of its limits. The Sarkars (divisions) and mahals, ( sub-divisions ) of which this province was made up at different periods Divisions. , . , r . . . ,, may be learned from the annexed table : 1594 A. D. (Authority : Ain ii ) 8 Sarkars^ 237 mahals 1665 ? ( ,, Bernier ) 16 230 parganas 1695 ,, ( Khulasat} 8 229 mahals 1700? ,, ( Dastur-al-amal *) 12 ,, 261 1720 ? ., ( ChaJiar Gulshan ) 12 248 * The Dastur-al-amal I have used is MS. D. 163 of the Library of the Asia- tic Society of Bengal. It is referred to by Thomas on p. 40 line 3 of the foot- note (Rev. Res.) Owing: to the carelessness or ignorance of the copyist of this MS. I have shared Thomas's difficulty in discriminating the badly formed raqams or abbreviated word-figures. I suppose the date of this work to be about 1700 A. D. XXXIV INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ DELHI. I now give the names of the Sarkars* with the number of the mahals belonging to each : (1594) Delhi Badaon Kumaon Sambhal 48^. 13 21 47 Shahranpur 56 12 27 33 (i6 9 5) (1720) Delhi Delhi 51 Badaon Badaon 20 Kumaon 7 Sambhal Sambhal 49 Shahranpur Shahranpur 28 Rewari Rewari 1 1 Hissar Hissar 28 Sirhind. Sirhind 3$ Narnol Narnol f 15 Tijara 18 Rewari Hissar Sirhind Narnol Narnol f Tijara Srinagar 7 Faizabad 12 Thus we see that the extent of the province was changed in each of the two latter periods, first by substituting one Sarkar for another of Akbar's list, and secondly by the incorporation of new Sarkars with it. Yet, the authors of the Khulasat and the Chahar Guishan slavishly followed Abul Fazl in defining the boundaries of the province, though the latter's demarcation could not truly apply to the new state of things. The 2nd of the above tables will also show the comparative numbers of mahals for the Sarkars taken separately, in 1594 and 1720 The total area of measured land for the entire province in- creased from 2,05,46,817 bighas in 1594 to 6j93,56,573 bighas in 1720. Below is given comparative view of the areas and revenues of the Sarkars common to the Ain and the Chahar Gulslian, though some of them are included in different provinces in the two works. * Tieffenthaler, in his account of Hindustan, merely repeats the "divisions" of the Ain. His account of the Deccan comes from another source. The date of his statistics must have been much earliei than that of the publication of his work (1786.) Where he merely repeats the Am I do not quote him. t The Ain includes Narnol and Tijara in the Province of Agra. Faifcabad is now included in Oudh. Area and Eevenue. DELHI.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XXXV Sarkars Area in bi& r has in A. D. \ Rev. in I Is. in A. D. 159* 1720 1594 1720 Delhi Badaon ICurnaon 71,26,108 80,93,850 1,21456 1,65,928 3075,315 8,70,426 TO T O O 4 *? 61,63,043 29,22,244 4 ^o ooo Sambhal Shaharanpur Rewari Hissar Sirhind Tijara Narnol 40,4 7* 1 93 35,30,370 n,5S.oii 31MA97 77,29,466 7,40,001 20,80,046 47,53,321 3^,29,315 13,95,535 71,48,184 1,57,86,388 2,00 376 68,04,356 16,73,536 21,95,991 8,80,566* 13,13,872 40,19,763 442,511 12,51,167 35,41,843 27,27,682 10,26,983 22,09,483 60,81,227 8,07,322 19,20,819 Here we notice an increase of the measured area in every Sarkar expect Delhi, Badaon, and Tijara, while the revenue shows a marked increase everywhere except in Kumaon, The total Provincial Revenue was in 1594 (A in. ii. 285) 1648 (Badshahnamd) 1654 (Dastur-al-amal) 1665 (Bernicr) 1695 (Khulasat] 1697 (Mannucci) 1700 (Dastur-al-amal, MS. C.) 1707 (Ramusio) 1720 (Chahar GulsJian) (TiefFenthalcr, p. 135)... I give below an account of the places of note in this province, indicating within brackets in which of the three works, the Atn, the Khulasat, and the Places of Note- Rs. 1,50,40,389 2,50,00,000 f 3^9,70,978 t 1,95.25,000 f 1,86,58,375 1,25,50,000 f ,. 3,03,23,753 t 3,o5,48-753 t 2,64,65,892 >i 3,05,73,753 * This is not given separately in the Am (ii. 293) ; but I have worked it out by subtracting the revenues of the other 7 Sarkars from the total provincial revenue. t All these figures are taken from Thomas, pp. 52 and 53, except the figures for 1700 which are taken from pp. 42 and 43 of his work, for a reason already stated. XXXVI INDIA OF AURANGZIB, [ DELHI. Chahar Gulshan ( marked A, K, and C respectively ), they are mentioned. (i) TOMBS of Muhammadan Saints : Panipat, the burial-place of Abu Ali Qalandar alias Sharfuddin ; Sirhind that of Fariduddin Sani and Muhammad Masum Kabuli ; Sadhaura that of Shah Qames ; Sunam that of Shaikh Taiwi (K) ; Hansi that of Jamal- ud-din, the successor of Fariduddin Ganj-i-shakkar (A & K. ) and Badaon. (ii) Hindu HOLY FLACKS : (O Thaneswar \ A, K, & C ), near which flows the Saraswati, one of the sacred rivers. In the neighbourhood is the lake of Kuru-kshetra in which vast crowds of pilgrims bathe. (2) Har mandil or Hari mandir ( A, K, & C ) in the city of Sambhal ; here Kalki,the last Incarnation of Vishnu, will be born as the son of a Brahman. (3) Ndnak-matJi or Ndnak- matd, (K & C) near Sambhal, was a holy place of the Sikhs. Tief- fenthaler thus describes it (i. 140), u Nanakmatha, a place celebrated for the hand (or writing) of Nanak carved on a tree, 30 m from Barili, 18 short miles from Philibhit, and 3 m. from the nearer bank of the Garra " (4) l y rabhds kund (A & C), a hot-water spring in the hill of Islamabad. (5) A hot-water spring near the town of Sahna, 14 kos from Delhi (A & C), "the peculiarity of which is undoubtedly due to a sulphur mine." (A.) (6) Near Narnol is a sacred well which overflows of itself when the conjunction of the moon occurs on a Friday. (A & C.) (7) Bardwar, Ilrishikesh, Badrinath, and Kcdarnatli, in the Himalayas, near the source of the Ganges. The first thrcv are mentioned by K. and all of them by C. ; but, curiously enough, the Am has nothing to say about any of them,- not even Ilardwar, though the Kumbh mela there must have been as famous in Akbar's time as in Au- rangzib's. (S) Jog-mdyd (C) near the garden of Mihr-parwar Begam. (9) Sitrajkund* a sacred reservoir near the Serai of Khawajah Bakhtawar Khan, south of Delhi (C) (10) Nagam-budh where the Fish Incarnation of Vishnu appeared (C.) ui) Parsun, * There is another Surajkundv^ Oudh (Am ii. 173). DELHI.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XXXVii the hermitage of Rishi Pardshar, 2 kos west of Faridabad,, south of Delhi. (C) (12) Pinjaur, 30*48 N. 78-59 E, contained the shrine of Bhima Devi (K) (13) Bhupa ? an old shrine on the bank of the Saraswati, 10 kos from Thanes war (C). (iii) Famous GARDENS : (i) The garden of Hafiz Rakhnah at Sirhind (A) (2) The garden of Fidai Khan Koka at Pinjaur (K), "laid out on the natural slope of the ground in six separate and successive terraces, one below another." Delhi was the capital of Hindustan and the intellectual and political centre of all India, during the empire Delhi City. * . __ t . ._ , ' , , , .,. of the Mughals. Under Akbars grandson it was renamed after the reigning monarch, and it is by this name of Shah-Jahanabadft&X. it is spoken of in K. & C., and indeed in all later Persian histories. An idea of the splendour, wealth, and population of the metropolis may be gathered from the Khnlasat, which breaks into poetry in the description of it. The city was commanded by a red sand-stone fortress, and enclosed by a stone wall and a broad ditch, while the river Jumna washed its feet in the eastern side. Firuz Shah's canal flowed through the city and spread freshness and verdure along its margins. The population of Delhi was cosmopolitan. Trade, education, diplomacy, admi- nistration, pleasure, and curiosity alike drew to it vast crowds from remote regions. The bazar, especially the Chandni Chauk, contained the produce of every country in the world, for here thronged the rich and the gay, here the "wealth of Ind" changed hands. The Khulasat mentions the Jaw a Rlasjid and the Imperial Bath only among the grand public buildings, but omits the Pearl Mosque and the Audience Halls built by Shah Jahan. Glorious as Shah-Jahanabad was, it was situated in the grave- yard of Indian capitals. In its neighbourhood Its Environs. \ . . . . * . had sprung up capitals and royal palaces in every age of Indian history. The Khulasat enumerates sixteen such, and the record of former dynasties and their royal seats stretches through the epochs of Mughals and Pathans, Rajputs and Pandavas, till it is lost in the twilight of fable. On the fall of a XXXVlli INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [DELHI, dynasty or the desolation by fire or plague of one city, or at the changing caprice of the reigning despot, the site was changed and the capital was shifted to a place a mile or two off, where a new capital soon sprang up, only to share the fate of its predecessors when its short day of glory was over. Thus the environs of Delhi, for miles and miles round, arc littered over with historic ruins, among which the lamp of the antiquarian may help us to discover the vestiges of the past The suburbs were not only rich in such ruins, but during the later Empire boasted of the villas of the rich and the mansions of the nobles, each reposing in the midst of its extensive gardens and clusters of trees. Other gardens there were in the suburbs which enclosed the tombs of nobles and ministers, scholais and saints. "Within and around this large town are the tombs of many of the former kings ; but the most famous is the sepulchre of the Emperor Humayun. The tombs of nobles, ministers, scholars, and accomplished persons, situated within orchards and gardens, are too many to be enumerated. There is a separate city formed by the tombs of the departed" (p. 10 of transla- tion.) Here, far off from the din and dust of the city, were their "places of sleep" as the Khulasat touchingly calls their tombs. If the wrangle of the school, the controversy of the church- porch, the rivalry of the council -chamber, the intrigue of the Court, and the strife of the stricken field were fitly represented by the big roaring city where they had passed so much of their lives, surely, these graves,, each standing apart within its grassy compound, each shaded by green trees, far away from the noise and bustle of the metropolis, were also emblematic of the silence and peace of that sleep in which they await the judgment of their Maker. The Chahar Gulshan gives a long acconnt of the melas and chhattars, 1 5 are separately named, held Fairs near Delhi, in which devotion and trade were combined. Primarily religious gatherings, they were soon converted into fairs, in which the pleasure-seeker and the trader outnum- DELHI.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XXXIX bered the devotee and the pilgrim. Such fairs were held near Hindu shrines and Moslem saints' tombs alike (pp. 123 and 124). But the Ganges Fair at Garh Mukhteswar seems to have surpas- sed all others in grandeur and merriment, while in point of sanc- tity and true devotion the Kumb/t mcla at Hardwar was, as it still is, at the head of all Indian fairs. As we read the account of these numberless fairs anJ gatherings round Delhi, we almost for- get that the Chahar Gulshan was written in 1759. The gay and fickle butterflies of the capital seem to have turned the year into one long holiday and spent their lives in a round of merry-making and sight-seeing, as if Nadir Shah's invasion were not a thing of living memory to them and the spear of the Mara- tha and the long knife of the Durani Afghan did not yearly glitter before their eyes. In the hills of Kumaon were mines of gold, silver, lead, iron, copper, orpi merit and borax (A in. ii. 280 and Khulasat p. 16 of trans.) "Cultivation depends upon rain and irrigation, and in some places on wells. In certain tracts tillage yields 3 crops in the year. The fruits of Iran, Turan and Hindustan grow in plenty" 'Khulasat, p. 22, and Ain, p. 278). No manufacture is mentioned in any of these 3 works, except Manufacture. that of rose-water at Pinjaur in K. 2. AGRA. The length of this province was 175 kos from Ghatampur to Palwal, and its breadth [TOO kos} from Kanauj Extent to Chanderi in Malwa. (Ain. ii, 179) K. & C. merely repeat the above boundaries, though evidently inapplicable tp the altered Subak of Agra of their times xl INDIA OF AURANGZIB, [ AGRA. Divisions- The province was divided into Sarkars and mahals in the the following manner : 1594 ... 13 Sarkars, 262 mahals 1665 ... 14 216 parganas 1695 ... 14 ,, 268 mahals I/OO ... 22* ,, 244 1720 ... 12 254 I next give the names of the Sarkars with the number of the mahals belonging to each : 33"* i6 30 21 16 16 (1695) 11720) Agra Agra 48 Kalpi Kalpi 14 Kanauj Kanauj 30 Kol Kol * 13 Gwalior Gwalior 23 Irij Irij 20 Satuan Bay an wan 30 Narwar Narwar 23 Mandlapur Mandlaer 15 Alwar Alwar 43 Bari ? Sahar 7 Tijara [Two not named] Sanor 6 Here it should be noted that the Ain includes Narnol in Agra, but K. & C. include it in Delhi. Tijara is placed in Agra by A. & K. and in Delhi by C., the latest of the 3 works. A. & C. mention the Sarkar of Bayanwan 3 for which a note in the Ain adds the variant San wan, evidently the same as the Satuan of K. K. mentions by name only 12 out of its 14 Sarkars. Alone among the 3 works, K. mentions a Sarkar named Bari, and C. another named Sanor. The total area of measured land increased from 2,78 62,190 Area and Revenue. bigjias in 1594 to 5,58,79,207 4'//dtf in 1720. (1594) Agra Kalpi Kanauj Kol Gwalior Irij Bay an wan 27 Narwar Mandlaer Alwar Sahar Tijara Narnol 5 14 43 7 18 16 ' This may be a copyist's error for 12, AGRA.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ give below a comparative study of the areas and revenues of the Sarkars common to 1594 and 1720. Area in bighas in Rev. in Rs.in Sarkars. 1594 1720 1594 1720 Agra 9,10,07,324 2,00,97,473 47<9548i 1,50,601 ? Kalpi 3,00.023 47.92,565 12,33,918 10,00,028 Kanauj 27.76674 54,62,569 13,14,615 25,01,386 Kol 24,61.730 26,69,310 13,74,823 11,14,239 Gwalior 11,46,465 4146,148 742,091 24,90453 Irij 22,02,125 3343-777 9,44,510 22,24,046 Bayanwan 7 62,014 1249,197 2,11482 8,84,183 Narwar ^ 3<94>353 41,46,147 1,05,833 4,09,002 Mandlaer 65,642 47,92,462 93452 5,00,534 Alwar 16,62,012 24,57,410 9,9S8o5 23,98,356 Sahar 7.63,474 14,27,148 147,939 6,13,689 Here an increase of the measured area is noticed everywhere except in the Sarkar of Agra, the increase being more than ten- fold in Kalpi and Narwar. The area of Kol in 1 594 is wrongly given in Jarrett's translation, the final zero having been dropped by oversight. The revenue of the Sarkar of Agra in 1720 cannot be correctly stated, as the leaf containing it is partly wormeaten. The rise in the revenue is most marked in Gwalior, Bayanwan, Narwar, Mandlaer, and Sahar, there being slight decreases in Kalpi and Kol only. The total provincial revenue was In 1594 Rs. 1,36,56,257 1697 1648 2,25,00,000 1700 1654 341,15,052 1707 1665 2,52,25,000 1720 1695 245,45,00 (Tieff. i. 169). (i). Muhammadan TOMBS : (i) At Sikandra, 5m. from Agra, Places of Note.* is the tomb of Akbar (K). (2) In the Taj * Henceforth in these topographical notes I shall leave out the Chahar, Guhkan where it merely repeats the A in or the Khulasat, which preceded it in date. Rs. 2,22,03,550 2,40,29,175 2,86,69,003 2,24,16,110 2,8044,004 xlii INDIA OF AURANGZIB, [ AGRA. Mahal Shah Jahan lies buried by the side of the wife he loved. (3) Kalpi (A & K) contains the tombs of many saints. (4) Gwalior (K) holds the tomb of Shaikh Muhammad Ghaus. (5) At Makhanpur (K), now in the Cawnpur District, is the tomb of Shaikh Bahau-d-din, a place of annual pilgrimage. (6) Char- bagh, now called Rambagh, (A) opposite Agra on the other side of the Jumna, where Faizi lies buried, (li). HOLY PLACES of the HINDUS : (v Rangtah (A) on the bank of the Jumna, near Agra. (2) Mathura (A & K) one of the most famous of the places of Hindu worship. The Khulasat adds that the celebrated temple of Keshava Rai was demolished by order of the Emperor Alamgir (in 1669 A.D.) and a mosque erected on the site. Thefaujdar Abdu-n Nabi Khan built another mosque (the "cathedral" mosque) and a beautiful ghat called Bisrant. (3) Kanori(A) had hot springs. (iii). TOWNS : Fatihpur-Stkri, A. & K ) a village 12 kos from Agra, was raised into an important and beautiful city by Akbar, who built here a fort, palace, mosque, college, religious house, &c. Near it is a lake, 4 miles square, on the bank of which the Emperor constructed a court-yard, a minar> and polo-grounds. It was to Akbar what Versailles was to Louis XIV. or St. Cloud to Napoleon I. On the death of Akbar the importance of the place declined. (2) Kanauj, (A & K), a very old city and a capital of Hindustan in ancient times. (3) Gwalior (A & K) its impregnable fort was used as a state prison. This district was the home of good musicians (including the famous Tdnsen) and beautiful women. (4) Biana (A & K.), a very old city, the import- ance of which entirely declined on the rise of Agra. It had a strong fort in which captive rebels used to be confined (according to the Khulasat}, but which even in Akbar's time had fallen into disuse and was looked upon as a lumber-room of old curiosities (A). Agra was formerly a village belonging to the sub-division of Biana. Sikandar Lodi (1488-1516) chose it for his capital and founded a city on the left AGRA.] INDIA OF AURANG2IB. xliii bank of the Jumna. The citadel got the name of Badal-garh. Akbar made it his capital, partly to escape from the over-crowded and insanitary old site of Delhi and its intolerable heat, but chiefly because Agra occupied a more central position in the Empire, From Agra issued three main roads, one leading to Allahabad Patna and Bengal, another to the Deccan, and a third to Rajputana. Agra was, therefore, a far rrtore convenient base of supplies in his Indian wars than Delhi. A campaign into Rajputana, Gujrat, or Ahmadnagar could be more readily undertaken from Agra. Taking advantage of the unoccupied site on the right bank of the river, he laid out a fine city, with "a royal palace, the residences of many of the nobility,... numerous mansions and gardens." "The Jumna flows through the city for four kos, and on both sides lofty buildings and charming villas have been built". Akbar's red sand-stone fort was built in 1566 A i>. He beautified his new capital, fortified it, and finally gave it his own name, for it is known as Akbar-abad in Muhammadan histories. But like all other royal favourites, Agra enjoyed glory and importance during one reign only. Jahangir did not share his father's love of this city ; he was more attracted by Lahor and Kashmir. Shah Jahan deserted it for Delhi and lavished his wealth in beautifying a new city there, which was named after him Shah-Jahanabad. But he made ample amends for it : he immortalised Agra by his priceless gift of the Taj Mahal. Aurangzib had, of needs, to shift the capital to his camp during the long and arduous wars in the Deccan, where cities soon grew out of Mughal encampments. At last he laid down his old bones in the scene of his toil, without being able to return to the capital of his fathers. Opposite Agra, on the other bank of the Jumna, was the pleasant garden of "Char- bagh, a memorial of Babar." In this suburb Abul Fazl was born, and here his brother Faizi, the poet-laureate of Akbar, lies buried. The A in mentions copper mines at Perath, ( in Narnol ), Singhana, Udaipur, and Kotputli^ silver mines at Perath) old and unremunerative copper and turquoise mines at Toaah Bhim } [ K. wrongly transfers INDIA OF AURANGZIB. ( AGRA. the last description to Kalpi> ] an iron mine in Gwalior, and a red-stone quarry near Fatihpur. Biana was famous for its mango (A), wood-apple^ and melon (K) f< Indigo of the finest quality and excellent hinna" were also to be had here (A) "Sugar of extreme whiteness" was manufactured at Biana and a famous kind of Aigar-candy at Kalpi. (A & K) Industries. _ tl ,-.,* Excellent carpets were woven at Fatihpur (A) and Ahvar, the latter place producing articles of glass also. Agra was famous for its "gold and silver embroidery on turbans and on other kinds of cloth --very nicely done," (K ) 3. ALLAHABAD. Its length from Sinjhauli (in the Jaunpnr District) to the sou- thern hills (the Kaimur ranee) was 160 kos ; Extent. its breadth from Chausa (on the Ganges) to Ghatampur was 122 kos (A. & K ) The following were the Sarkars and mahals of which the pro Divisions. vince was composed in different periods : 1594 ... 10 SarkarS) 177 mahals 1665 ... 17 2\6parganas 1695 ... 16 247 mahals 1700 ... 17 269 1720 ... 17 269 (Tieffenthaler) 9* Sarkars (1594) (1695) (1720; Allahabad \\m Allahabad Allahabad 11 Benares 8 Benares Benares 9 Jaunpur 41 Jaunpur Jaunpur 42 Manikpur 14 Manikpur Manikpur 14 Chunar 13 Chunar Chunar 15 Kalinjar 11 Kalinjar Kalinjar 10 * All the Sarkars mentioned in the A in, except Bhatb-khora. ALLAHABAD.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. xlv Corah 9 Corah Corah 8 Ghazipur 19 [The other 9 Ghazipur 17 Bhathkhora 39 not named] Bhathkhora Karrah 12 Karrah 12 Barhar 18 [The other 6 not named] The total area of measured land for the whole province . . _, rose from 39,68,018 bighas in 1594 to Area and Revenue. * -^ in 1720. Area in big has in Rev. in Rs. in Sarkars 1594 1720 1594 1720 Allahabad ... 573-3H 15,53,607 5,20,834 9,69,147 Benares 36,869 4-53,354 2,21,733 i,35,750 Jaunpur 8,70,265 54,51.119 14,09,852 25,97088 Manikpur 6,66,222 21,01,324 8,47913 15,06,270 Chunar 1,06,270 7,40,687 1,45,266 87,500 Kalinjar 5,08,273 43>3< s ,324 5-95.987 11,75,001 Corah 3)41,170 i3>57^7 4,34,939 14,39.183 Ghazipur 2,88,770 J 7>33,349 3.35,7^2 3,63,836 Karrah 4,47,557 14,17,127 5,67,051 9,29,140 Everywhere the area of measured land increased remarkably,the increase being most striking in the Sarkars of Benares, Jaunpur, Chunar, Kalinjar, and Ghazipur. As regards revenue, there was an unaccountable falling off in Benares and Chunar, but in the other seven Sarkars there is an increase, sometimes a great increase. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 53,10,695 in 1697 Rs. 77,38,000 1648 1,00,00,000 1700 1,05,33,673 1654 1,31,97,029 1707 1,14,13,581 1665 94,70,ooo 1720 72,55,8o6* 1695 94,01,525 Tieff. 1,14,13,581 * This amount is of doubtful accuracy, as the taqsim jama of all the Sarkars taken together, exceeds it by more than 20 lacs of Rupees, INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ ALLAHABAD. (1) ALLAHABAD (A. K. & C.) is called Praydg in the Hindu Scriptures. The confluence of the two grand Places of Note- ~ , T , rivers, Ganges and Jumna, was very early recognised as a one of the holiest of places, and bathing here was regarded as a means of washing away all sins.* The third mem- ber of the Hindu riparian trinity, the Saraswati, which seems to have mysteriously disappeared after the early age of faith and which devotees of every place have sought to locate in their own neighbourhood, was supposed to have here joined the other two rivers and thus given to Allahabad its name of Tribeni or 'the three braids of hair.' Akbar renamed the town Illahabas (A) ; but Shah Jahan changed the name into lllahabad (K.) Akbar's sand- stone fortress still exists and excites admiration by its strength and massiveness. Within the fort there is a very old tree called the Akshaya-bata or 'the imperishable banian tree.' The Ain does not mention it, though it must have existed from long before Akbar's time. Jahangir cut it down and fixed on the stump a caldron of iron (K.) But the tree grew again and shook off the obstruction. Both K. & C. mention that "in former times" there was a saw here, under which devotees used to place their necks and make a sacrifkal offering of their heads ''in the hope of final redemption and the obtaining of their desires in the next world. This practice was forbidden by Shah Jahan." As the Ain does not mention this act of self-immolation, it must have originated after Akbar's time. In Magh vast crowds of pilgrims assembled at Allahabad and daily bathed in the Ganges for one month (K. & C. but not A ) A poll-tax was levied on the pilgrims by the Imperial Government. (K.) But, as all pilgrim-taxes were remitted by Akbar, this tax must have been re-imposed by one of his successors. (2) BENARES, a, very ancient and holy city, and a seat of ' * As Kalidas says, "Internally purified by bathing at this meeting-place of the waters of the two Consorts of the Sea, one is exempted from re-birth after 4eath, even though he may not have been spiritually enlightened." (Raghu, xiii.) ALLAHABAD,] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. xlvii Hindu learning. K. & C. do not mention Aurangzib's iconoclastic acts. C. gives to the town an alternative name, Muhammadabad. (3) Chunar a strong stone fort. (4) Kalinjar, a lofty stone fortress containing the temple of Kal Bhairav. (51 Jaunpur, a large city. (A. & K.) An iron mine is mentioned near Kalinjar, and small bits of diamond were also found there by the Mines. peasants, evidently near the surface of the ground. (A. & K.) Melons and grapes were abundant Jawdri and bajra did not grow, and moth was scarce. (A. & K.) In the Crops &c. . forest near Kalinjar, ebony trees were found and many kinds of fruits grew spontaneously. (A. & K.) Wild elephants were caught in the village of Kantal (A) and in the forests near Chunar and Kalinjar (A. & K.) Cloths, especial \y jhona and mihrkul were beautifully woven _ . at Benares, Jalalabad and Mau (A. & K. ) Industries . v Woollen carpets were manufactured at Jaunpur and Zafarwal (A.) 4 OUDH. Under Akbar this province extended from the district of Gorakhpur to Kanauj, 135 kos, and from the northern mountains to Siddhaur, 115 kos. (A. K. & C.) The following table will show the number of its Sarkars and Divisions. mahals in different periods 1594 ... 5 Sarkars, 133 1665 ... 5 >, 1695 ... 5 1700 ... S 1720 ... 5 xlviii INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [OUDH. 2lm. 24 II 22 55 (1695) [The same names.] Sarkars \ 1 594) Oudh Gorakhpur Bahraich Khairabad Lucknow The province seems to have suffered because is was distinctly marked off from vinces by broad rivers. The total area of measured land rose Area and Revenue in 1 594 to 1,90,22,908 (1720) Oudh 22m. Gorakhpur 57 Bahraich 12 Khairabad 24 Lucknow 34 no change of territory, the neighbouring pro- from 1,01,71,180 bighas bighas in 1720. Sarkars Area in bighas in Revenue in Rs. in 1594 1720 1594 1720 Oudh Gorakhpur Bahraich ... Khairabad Lucknow... 27,96,207 2,44,283 18,23435 19,87,700 33,07426 43.83,869 53>4,6or 27,52,37B 6546,458 10,23,908 2,98,170 6,03,013 10,91,109 20,17,904 14,32,340 27,97,842 6,29,929 2044,896 13,80,000 Hence we see that in every Sarkhr except Lucknow the area and revenue increased, Gorakhpur and Khairabad being very prominent in respect of this increase. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 5043,954 1697 1648 75,00,000 1700 Rs. 69,89490 1654 90,99,571 1707 ,, 80,58,195 1665 68,30,000 1720 83,10,015 1695 66,13,500 Tieff. ,, 80,32,928 The Khulasat merely repeats the account of the Ain without . , adding a single item of its own. (i) Ajodhya, Places of Note ^ birth _ place of Ram> the hero of the Ramayan. It is a very old and sacred city, and had formerly a ;veiry large population. Near the city are two large tombs, vul- garly believed to hold Seth and Job. Muhammadans made annual pilgrimages to them. (2) Rattanpur was the place of burial OUDH,] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. of Kabir, who wanted to combine the Hindus and the Muham- madans into one sect. The place is now called Maghar. (3) Bahraich) an old town with many gardens in its environs Here are the tombs of two holy warriors of Islam, -Salar Masaud (sister's son of Mahmud of Ghazni) and Salar Rajab (father of Firuz Shah Tughlaq ) Grand processions were formed by pilgrims to them. (4) Nimkhar^ a large fort and a holy place of the Hindus. Near it is a reservoir, the Brahmawart-kund, in which the water boiled and eddied. In the same neighbourhood there was another sacred tank, in which the figure of Mahadeva was manifested on the sand. (5) Charmiti^ where flames spontaneously issued from the ground at the Holt festival. (6) Suraj-kund, a place of pilgrim- age. Elliot (ii. 549) identifies it with Asokpur, between Ajodhya and Gonda. -7) Lucknow, where Shaikh Mina lies buried. (His life is given in the Chahar Gulshan, see p. 135). (8) Bilgram, a small but healthy town, remarkable for the keen wit and musical skill of its inhabitants, and containing a well the water of which "increased intelligence and comeliness." 19) Dokon, a village near Bahraich, formerly containing a copper mint Excellent rice was produced here, especially the three varieties, sukhdas, madkhar Vbadrahkir* ace. to K.l, and Crops. . jhanuah ) which were matchless "for whiteness, delicacy, fragrance and wholesomeness." Rice was here sown three months earlier than in other parts of India. Game was plentiful. In the environs of Ajodhya gold was obtained by sifting dust Pish was speared by men in boats on the Sai Industries^ river. A brisk trade was carried on with the people of the Himalayan region, who brought, on the backs of men goats and hill ponies, gold, silver, copper, musk, the tail of the yak cow (qutas\ and other things, and carried back in exchange cloth, amber, salt, ornaments, glass and earthen ware, &c. (see p. 32). INDIA OF AUKANGZIB. [ BIHAR. 5. BIHAR. The length of the province from Telia-Garhi to Rohtas was Extent. Divisions. 1 20 kos, and its breadth fron Tirhut to the northern (? southern) mountains, no kos. ( A.) The province was composed of the following Sarkars and mahals : 1594 1665 1695 1700 1720 Sarkars (1594) Bihar* (Patna)46 m. Monghyr 31 Champaran Hajipur Saran Tirhut Rohtas 7 Sarkars, 200 mahals 8 245 parganas. 240 mahals. 250 252 3 ii 17 74 18 (1695) [The last 6 Sar- kars of the Am are repeated, but the other 2 Sarkars are not named.] (1720) Bihar Monghyr 40 Champaran 3 Hajipur 1 1 Saran 27 Tirhut 102 Rohtas 7 Shahabad 1 2 Hence we learn that Shahabad was constituted as a Sarkar after the time of Akbar. The provincial total of measured land increased from 2444,120 bighas in 1594 to 1,31,52,845 bighas in 1720. Area and Revenue. Sarkars. Area in bighas in Rev. in Rs. in 1594 1720 1594 1720 Bihar Monghyr Champaran Hajipur ... Saran Tirhut Rohtas 9,52,598 67,09,647 12,78,698 20,04.910 27,40,649 1,37,835 6,83,276 15,04,500 479494 10,20,487 43<535 10,05,575 2,40,603 ii,33,i85 8,83 220 7,37,080 7,07 ; 050 85,7U 4,3<59S3 2,29,053 2,66,464 47,335 22,37,856 io,45,275 * The Sarkar of Bihar must not be identified with the modern Sub-division of Bihar. PREFACE. THIS book is an attempt to present the topography and statis- tics of Mughal India, as far as we can learn them from the Persian works, Khulasatu-t-Tawarikh (1695 A D.), Dastur-al Amal (1700 A. D. ?), and Chahar Gulshan (1720 A. D. ?), all three of which* are in manuscript. These sources of information have been sup plemented by Abul Fazl's Ain-i-Akbari (Blochmann and Jarrett translation) and the Jesuit missionary Tieffenthaler's Geograpil de f Indoustan (Bernoulli's French version), which, though publis ed in 1786, was based on Persian works fully half a century earl' in date. A very detailed comparison has, also, been institui between the India of Akbar and, broadly speaking, the India Aurangzib. The revenues of the several provinces of the Mugf Empire have been given separately for ten different period sifi, the time of Akbar to that of Tieffenthaler ; and thus the $it given in Thomas's Revenue Resources of the Mughal Empire w been supplemented and partly checked. The various sta^g the main roads of Mughal India have been traced on the b> n Tavern ier's Travel s^ the Chahar Gulshan, Tieffenthaler's Geogrfi de f Inaoustan, and an old Indian Gazetteer of 1842. Finallyf topographical and statistical portions of the Khulasatu-t-Taw tr * and the Chahar Gulshan, (178 pages), have been here tram for the first time and copiously annotated. iat The title of the book, therefore, does not fully expr ast contents. Its size, too. gives an inadequate idea of the laP u * has involved, especially in making out proper names and a^ viated Arabic word- figures (raqam) from badly-transcribed <s - sian manuscripts If the net result of the researches em* 1611 in this work be imperfect and wanting in finality, I 'he^k. difficult nature of the subject and our want of the re$-) f< 1 pronounced upon it. 11 The Hunterian spelling has in most cases been adopted here, especially when a name occurs for the first time ; but the current spelling of the names of famous places has been retained. The two 'kafs have been represented by q and k respectively. All corrections and suggestions, especially from those who have ac- cess to better MSS of the two Persian works translated here, will be thankfully received.*' My thanks are due to Khan Bahadur KIIUDA BUKHSH KUAN of Bankipur, to whose enlightened courtesy I am indebted for the use of a MS of the Chahar Giilshan, and to Maulvi ABDUL IAI of Patna College, with whom I read the KJmlasat and revised ^portion of the Chahar Giilshan. JADUNATH SARKAR, such communications should be sent to me addressed Ghoramara, P. O, < District, Bengal. BIHAR.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB, If The revenue column for 1720 is very incorrect, because the detailed revenue ( taqsim jama ) of the Sarkars total up to 21,84,21,981 dams only, whereas the revenue of the province taken as a whole is given as 37,84,17,380 dams (see p. 135.) Hence a comparison between 1594 and 1720 would not be safe in this particular. * The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 5547>9 8 5 in 1697 Rs. 1,21,50,000 1648 1,00,00,000 1700 73,58,613 1654 ,, 1,36,32,523 1707 1,01.79,025 166 5 95,80,000 1720 94,60,434 1695 95.18,250 Tieff. 1,01,79,525 (i) Patna,t\\e capital of the province; most of its houses Places of Not Were roo ^ eci w * th **' e (A. & K.) It was named Azimabadby Prince Azimu sh-shan when he was Governor of Bihar, 1703 A. I). (2) Gay a, a famous Hindu shrine where the Hindus offer pindas of grain and water to the souls of their ancestors. (A.&K.) (3) Baidyanath (K) in the hilly region, has a famous temple of Mahadeva, at which miracles were wrought (see p. 36. ^ The Khulasat tells a remarkable story of the way in which the priests of the temple imposed on the credulous, among whom the author of the work was one. The Aindoes not mention the place. .'4) Tirhut was for a long time "a seat of learning and a centre of Hindu culture." (A. & K.) (5) Rajgir had a quarry of stone. (A) (6) Rohtas, a strong and lofty fort (A & K.} (7) Monghyr, the border district between Bengal and Bihar (A. & K.) Long pepper grew in the jungles of Champaran ; in that district the seed of the vetch mash was cast Crops c. ^^ unploughed soil, where it grew "without labour or tilling." (A & K.) Tirhut had an excellent breed of buffaloes, which often proved more than a match for tigers. (A & K.) This district was algo famous for its curd ; the milkmen were prevented by a superstitious dread from adulterating milk. lA & K.) Orange-groves stretched for miles and miles here (A.) The jack-fruit grew to a large size in Hajipur. (A & K,) All lil INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [BIHAR, over the province excellent rice was grown. Poor people ate a kind of pulse named khesari (A. & K.) Sugar-cane grew well and in plenty. Betel-leaf, esp. the maghi variety of it, was one of the famous articles of the place. (A. & K ) No mention is made of indigo cultivation now so widely spread over N. Bihar by any of our three authorities. Rent was paid in cash and not by division of crops between landlord and tenant. (Ain, ii. 151.) Elephants were numerous, horses and camels less procurable. , , , 'A. & K.) This fact would surprise those who Animals- have seen the vast assemblage of horses at the Sonepur fair now-a-days. A fine species of Barbary goat was bred here. Fighting-cocks and game were abundant. (A & K.) Stone ornaments were carved at Rajgir near Gaya, (A) Good paper was made in this district. (A. & K.) Industries. Gilt glass ( A. & K.) and various kinds of cloth (K) were manufactured in this province. But the paper and cloth industries have now died out. The saligram stone, worshipped by the Hindus as a form of the Deity, was found in plenty in the Gandak (K) and Son (A) rivers. 6. BENGAL. In Akbar's time, what little of Orissa was possessed by the Mughals was regarded as a part of the province of Bengal though in a succeeding reign it was formed into a separate Subah. For the purpose of comparison Orissa will be always considered in this book apart from Bengal. Bengal was 400 ko$ in length from Chittagong to Telia-Garhi, and 200 kos in breadth from the northern hills to the southern frontier of the Sarkar of Madaran. The account of Bengal in the Chahar Gulshan is very unsatis- factory. The provincial totals of Sarkars and Divisions. . , r Q , , ^ , mahals are given as 28 and 1243, ^ ut t" e totals formed by adding up the detailed statistics are 31 and 959 respectively. Moreover, the Sarkars are not treated separately, BENGAL.] INDIA OF AURANGZJB. liii but the statistics given are for the Sarkars joined together in groups of two and two. To add to our difficulties, several names are so carelessly written in the MS as to be almost illegible. A com- parative study of the revenues and areas of the Sarkars in 1594 and 1720 is impossible, as the Chahar Gulshan is silent on these points. 1594 1695 1700 1720 Sarkars (1594) Udner (Tanda) $2 m. Fatihabad 31 Jannatabad (Gaur) 66 Taj pur 29 Pinjara 21 Barbakabad 38 Bazoha 32 Sonargaon 52 Sylhet 8 vSharifabad 26 Sulaimnnabad 31 Ghoraghat 84 Madaran 16 Bagla 4 Chatgaon 7 Mahmudabad 88 Khalifatabad 35 Purnia 9 Satgaon 53 t 19 27 34 28 Sarkars, 688 ' mahals 1109 4*5 (?) (1695) [The ist 15 Sarkars of the ^4/77 are re- peated, but the other 12 Sarkars required to complete K's total of 27 SarAa/sare. not named. | 1243 (1720) Udner Fatihabad-Madaran 14 Jannatabad in Bengal 73 Taj p u r- 1 J i n j a r a 26 Pinjara Barbakabad 47 Barbakabad- Bazoha 5 Bazoha 2 Sonargaon-Balgaon 72 * Sylhet Ghoraghat 16 Sharifabad-Khalifatabad Sulaimanabad 31 Ghoraghat- Mahmudabad Madaran -Sonargaon 52 15 98 Mahmudabad and Fatiha- bad 38 Khalifatabad and Bankar 24 Purnia 1 1 Salgaon-Farmandihi 7 Udaipur Taj pur in Bengal 30 Jannatabad in Kamrup 55 Mahkar in Kamrup 15 Dakhankol-Sharifabad 29 Bihar-Dakhansikol Salimabad near Bihar 2 Balgaon-Salimabad 37 Jannat-Sylhet 124 Maljih*-[annat I Tappa Kori-Maljih 25 Farmandihi Tappa Kori 4 Khuldabad-Satgaon 53 Sulaimanabad-Khuldabad 53 * The Am mentions Rangaon and Maljipur as two of the mahals of the Sarkar of Barbnkabad. (ii 137 ) t Blcchmann, in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal ^ (1873. Pt. I, p. 209), thus identifies the Sarkars of Bengal under Akbar ; Sarkars North and liv INDIA OF AURANGZIB. ( BENGAL. The Ain does not give the area of measured land in Bengal, probably because it was a province the con- Area Revenue ^ which had been completed only a few years before the book was written. The Chahar Gulshan gives the total measured area as 3, 34, 775 bighas, a figure very much smaller than that for Other Subahs. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 1,18,18,167 in 1700 Rs. 1,31.15,903 1648 1,25,00,000 1707 1,31,15,906 1654 1,14,46450 1720 1,40,72.725 1^95 ,1 1,15,72500 Tieff. 86,21,200* 1697 400,00,000 vfor Bengal and Orisa.) The Khulasat merely repeats the main portion of the infor- ^, ,. A mation supplied by the Ain. The only point Places of Note .,.,.. in which it is original is the statement that Dacca or Jahangir-nagar was the seat of government at that time, and that it was a beautiful, populous, and spacious city with a thriving trade in "the products of the seven climes." In Akbar's time the provincial capital was Tanda. FORTS : (i) Bagla> situated in the Sundarban. The rivers here are tidal ; in 1584 a terrible inundation took place in this Sarkar in which many houses and East of the Ganges: (i) Lakhnauti or Jannatabad [ = Malda.] (2) Purnia. (3) 7V*#tf?-=East Purnia and West Dinajpur. (4) PanjaraSt=zDinajpur (5) Ghoraghat** Dinajpur, Rungpur, and Bogra. (6) ffar&a&a&ad'-MMah, Rajshihi, and Bogra. (7) #rt7/^z-Rajshahi, Bogra, Pabna, and Dacca, (8) Sylhet (9) Sonargaon 'W. Tipara and Noakhali. (10) Chittagong. Sarkars in the Gangetic Delta: (n) Satgaon^n Parganas, W. Nadia, and S. W. Murshidabad. (12) Mahmudabad=*N. Nadia, N. Jessore, and W. Faridpur. (13) Khalifatabad^ S. Jessore and W. Bakarganj. (14) Fathabad Faridpur, S, Bakarganj, and the islands at the mouth of the Meghna. (15) Bakla** Bakarganj and Dacca. Sarkars South of the Ganges and West of the Bhagi- rathi : (16) Tandah or Audambar Murshidabad. (17) Sharifabad Bnrd- wan. (18) Sulaimanabad ** N. Hughli and portions of Nadia and Burdwan. (19) Hfa<faran~\V. Birbhum, Burdwan, and W. Hughli. * *' According to the latest Register of the Empire", as TierTenthaler adds, (i- 437). BENGAL.] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. lv boats were destroyed, and two lacs of living beings perished. (2) Lakhnauti or Gaur, the ancient Hindu and early Muham- madan capital of Bengal, was abandoned for its unhealthy climate. Humayun named it Jannatabad. Akbar's general and governor, Munim Khan, was attracted to this town * by its fine buildings ; but he died here (1576). From that time forward it was shunned as death, f It had a brick fort and several monuments of great antiquity. In the neighbourhood were a lake, from which the city was protected by an embankment and a poisonous tank, the water of which condemned criminals were forced to drink. (3) Mahmu- dabad, a fort in the midst of a swamp. (4) Tanda, the seat of government from 1564 to 1592 A D. (5) Dacca, the seat of govern- ment from 1609 to 1704, when Murshidabad took its place. Rajma- hal (named Akbar-nagar) was the provincial capital from 1592 to 1608 A, D. and again from 1639 to 1660.]: PORTS : (i) Chittagongvt&s named Islamabad by the Subahdar Islam Khan Mashedi in 1638 A D. Christian and other mer- chants flocked here. There was a belt of forests at the back of the town. (2 & 3) Hugkli and Satgaon^ two ports, a mile apart from each other. Both of them were occupied by Europeans as early as Akbar's time. "The staple food of the people is rice and fish ; wheat, barley ^ and other grains are not esteemed wholesome" Crops, Tenure, &c. * (A) io this K. adds, Nay more, they have not even the custom of eating bread Having cooked bnnjals herbs and lemon together, they keep it in cold water and eat it the neJtt day. It is very delicious when mixed with salt. They carry it to distant places and sell it at a high price." (p. 41). So many varieties of rice were cultivated that if only one grain of * A I Badaoni) ii. 220. t Cf. the pun of Nizamu-d-din, "az Gaur bcrgor ra/7, from Gour they went to the gor (grave)." Elliot, v. 395 . \ All these dates are from Stewart's History of Bengal. Stewart's Bengal. But Khafi Khan gives the date as 1665 A, D. (Elliot, vii. 275), Ivi INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ BENGAL, each Iqnd were taken the specimens would fill a pitcher. Some tracts yielded three harvests in the year. The tenants were very submissive, and paid their rent in cash in eight monthly instalments. It was not customary, as in Upper India, to divide the crops between government and tenant, nor to subject rent-free lands to assessment. The mango grew in the Sundarban and elsewhere, nearly all over Bengal. There was a creeper bearing the Fruits &c. . mango in Kampur The orange grew in Barbakabad and Sylhet. The latter district also produced the sangtarah (a fruit like the orange\ the China root, and aloes- wood. Betel-nut of the finest quality grew in Bengal. (Noakhali is still famous for it.) Mahmudabad produced long pepper and Hugli pomegranate, Wild elephants roamed over the forests of Khalifatabad and Araccan. Sharifabad was famous for "a beauti- Animals- . , . r , . f r fui species ot cattle, white in colour, of a fine build," and carrying loads up to 15 maunds, and for Barbary ^zte and fighting cocks. Hill-ponies were numerous in Ghoraghat. Pegu was famous for its white elephants. Araccan had the gayal, an animal sharing the characteristics of the cow and the buffalo ; but no cow or buffalo was found there ; horses were scarce and camels dear. At Harpah in the Sarkar ot Madaran, there was a mine yielding small diamonds An iron mine ex* Minos* isted in Bazoha. In Pegu were mines of ruby, diamond, gold, silver, copper naphtha, and sulphur. Silk and sack-cloth (jute) were manufactured in Ghoraghat, ganga-jal cloth in Barbakabad, and fine muslin Industries &c- 7 c r> i r r in oonargaon. Bengal was famous for its mattresses, some of which were so nicely made as to 4 resemble woven silk." One variety of it is named by K. sital-pati, a name which it still retains. Boat-building was highly developed in this land of rivers and creeks. Boats "are of different kinds for purposes of war, carriage, or swift sailing. For a siege they are BENGAL] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. IvH so adapted that when run ashore, they* overtop the fort and facilitate its capture. The sukhasan } a crescent-shaped litter with a moveable top of cloth, carried by men on poles, was a favourite conveyance of the rich. Horsemanship was rarely practised in this province. The houses were made of bamboos ; but some of them were so elegantly built as to cost Rs. 5 } ooo ; these, however, lasted long. Salt was in great demand and was brought from great distances. Diamonds and precious stones were among the imports. Eunuchs were numerous in Ghoraghat and Sylhet Kamrup was celebrated for the beauty and sorcery of its women, of which wonderful tales were told. (p. 43.") 7. ORISSA. In the Ain-i'Akbari Orissa is included in the province of Bengal, but K. and C. regard it as a separate province. Its boundaries arc not laid down in the Ain, and hence the two later works are silent on this point. The Am only tells us that when Orissa was added to Bengal the length of the latter was increased by 43 kos and the breadth by 23 kos (ii. 116) K. & C., however, assign to this province a length of 1 20 kos and a breadth of 100 kos. The province was composed of the following Divisions. ,. . . divisions : I 594 S Sarkars, 99 mahats. 1665 II 12 parganas 1695 --I5 n 2 33 ^ahals 1700 13 214 1720 - 12 258 The Ain mentions the following Sarkars : Jalesar (28 mahal$\ Bhadrak (7 m , Katak (21 m\ Kalang Dandpat (27 m), and Raj- mahendri (16 m \ K. & C. merely repeat these without mention- * Evidently the goloi or stern to which the rudder was tied and which had a sort of poop on iu G Iviii INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ ORISSA ing the names of the other Sarkars required to complete their lists. The two later writers evidently had no original information of Orissa, but merely copied the Ain. The Chahar Gulshan assigns to the province an area of , ^ measured land amounting to 5,95,079 Birsinghi Area and Revenue. , . f b '-' /y xr , bighas, which it converts into 9,01.26,259 Akoar- shahi biglias. The latter figure is evidently incorrect. Our usual comparison of the areas and revenues of the several Sarkars in 1594 and 1720 is impossible here, as C. does not supply the necessary information. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 3i,43>3 1 6 [ in 1697 Rs 57,07,500 1648 50,00000 1700 43,21,025 1654 56,39,500 1665 7270,000 1695 1,01,02,625* 35.70,500 1720 [not given! Tieff. 35,70,525 The A in says that there were T29f brick forts in the province. _ K. & C. merely repeat the account of the Ain. Places of Note. ^ 7 f (i) Katak, a stone fort and the scat of govern- ment. It contained a nine storied palace of Rajah Mukund (2) Puri, temple of Jagannath. (3) Kanarak, temple of the Sun, with 28 other temples in the neighbourhood. The staple food consisted of rice, fish, brinjals, and herbs. Rice was cooked steeped in water, and laid Customs &c. aside to be catei) the next day. Betel-leaf grew in plenty. The people lived in reed huts, anointed their^ bodies with sandal rubbings, and wore golden ornaments like women. The women adopted a tropical simplicity of dress and had a poor name for chastity. Books were written on palm leaves with a dry steel pen, quill and ink being rarely used. Cloth was manufactured and eunuchs were procurable in this province. An incredibly large sum. t 29 according to K. C. \ Ain. ii. 127. INDIA OF AURANGZJB. lix 8, M A L W A, Us length from Garha (Mandla) to Banswara was 245 kos and its breadth from Chanderi to Nandurbar 230 kos (A. and K.). The province was made up of the following divisions : 1594 ... 12 Sarkars, 301 parganas. 1665 ... 9 190 1695 ... 12 y$g mahals. 1700 ... ii 117 1720 ... ii Extent. Divisions. Sarkars (1594) Ujjain, 10 m Raisin 35 Chanderi 61 Sarangpur 24 Mandu 16 Hindia 23 Gagron 12 KotriParaya 10 Bijagarh 29 Kanauj 57 Mandesor 17 ' Nandurbar 7 259 (1695) [The first 9 Sarkars of the A in are re- peated, but the other three arc not nam- ed.] (1720) Ujjain Raisin Chanderi Sarangpur Mandu Hindia Gagron 13 38 49 24 23 13 12 Kotri Paraya 9 Garh* Mandesor 55 16 Shahabad f 7 The total area of measured land increased from 42,66,221 Area and Revenue, bighas in 1594 to 1,29,64,538 bighas in 1720. * Garh is the same Sarkar as the Kanauj of the Ain, (see p. 142 n.) t May be a copyist's mistake for Nandurbar, Ix INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ MALWA Sarkars. Area in bighas in Revenue i n Rs. in 1594 1720 1594 1720 Ujjain Raisin xCanaui 9,25,622 1,59617 42,02,057 89850 10,95,695 9 C 1 O77 13,11,816 20,35,408 5c i i Cn Chanderi Sarangpur ... Mandu Hindia ATanHf^nt* . 5,54.278 7,06,202 I 2,29,970 39,93,213 17,05,818 4,91,627 A "? A r\c\ z,^i,yz/ 7,75,944 8.24872 344725 2,90,274 T n T c ? C o3^b u 23,12,090 2,56,791 7.36,189 28,625 Gagron Kotri P. Nandurbar 1 or ShahabadJ 63,529 1,90,039 20,59,604 43 4 6,63,374 6,12,508 10,59.586 w 1 535 2,00,798 12,54,056 4.36*067 4,55,592 2,25,000 1648 1654 1665 1695 Places of Note. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 60,17,376 in 1697 Rs. 99,06,250 1,00,00,000 1700 1,02,08,667 1,39,32,933 1707 1,00,97,541 91,62,500 1720 90,04,593 92,25,425 Tieff. 1,14,13,581 The Khulasat merely repeats the Ain without adding a single item of original information, (i) Ujjain the capital was a very large city and a holy place of the Hindus Here the famous Vikramaditya reigned in the days of yore. In its environs were 360 temples and many summer-houses built in former times. (2) Chanderi, a large town with a stone fort. It is said to have contained 14,000 stone houses, 384 bazars, 360 serais, and 12,000 mosques ! (3) Mandu had a large fort and many old buildings. It was the capital of the local Muhammadan dynasty from 1387 to 1526, and contains the tombs of the Khilji * This is evidently incorrect, as by adding together the areas of the several mahals of this Sarfcar we get a total of more than thrice this figure. (Ain. ii. 207). MALWA] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Ixi kings. (4) Dhar^ an old town and the capital of the celebrated Rajah Bhoj. (5) Garha (Mandla), the ancient capital of the Gond dynasty, was situated in a wooded region. (6) Tumun, a village on the Betwa, where mermen were seen ! It had a large temple from which no sound could issue. [The Khulasat names it Numan and says that a perennial spring of water (and not merman) was found here ] Wheat, poppy, sugar-cane, mango, melon, grape, (the last two specially well in Nandurbar), fine tama- Crops &c- rind (\\i Bijagarh), and betel-leaf were the chief products of this province At Hasilpur (in the Sarkar of Mandu) and Dhar, the vine bore twice a year. Wild elephants abounded in Bijagarh, Hindia, and Garha Cloth of the best texture was woven here. The philosopher's stone was believed to have been found in this Industries &c. province ! No person of any class whatever, was without arms. High and low alike gave to their children, up to the age of 3, opium to eat. 9. A J M I R . Its length from Ambar to Bikanir and Jesalmir was 168 kos, and its breadth from the frontier of the Sar- Extent- kar of Ajmir to Banswara (in Sirohi) 150 kos. (A. & K.) The province was subdivided in the following Divisions. manner : 1594 ... 7 Sarkar s, 197 parganas ,, 123 mahals 217 238 Ixii INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ AJMIR (1720) Ajmir 30 Chitor 35 Rantambhar 83 Jodhpur 27 Nagor 31 Bikanir Kumbhalmirf Jesalmir * 8 Here we see that Bikanir and Jesalmir were regarded as two distinct Sarkars and the headquarters of another Sarkar was removed from Sirohi to Kamalmir, after Akbar's time. The total area of measured land decreased Sarkars (1594' } (1695) Ajmir, 28 m. [The same as Chitor 26 the Sar&ars Rantambhar 73 of the Ain.1 Jodhpur 22 Nagor 31 Bikanir* II Sirohi 6 Area and Revenue. bighas in 1720 from 2,14,35,941 bighas in 1594 to 1,74,09,684 Qpr lr o re Area ii i bighas Rev. ii i Rs. in 1594 in 1720 in 1594 in 1720 Ajmir Chitor Rantam ... Jodhpur 56,05487 16,78,801 60,24,196 64,25,670 9,35,507 8264,551 15,54,535 7,5TJ9J 22,45614 - ,63,210 2,66,194 24,63,044 30,85,359 66,30000 Nagor Bikanir & \ 80,37.450 17,83,354 10,09,746 1,18,7150 19,89,017 / 2,50,000 Jesalmir J Sirohi or \ 10 51,036 I 2,18,250 I 27 OOO Kamalmir J The area of measured land shrank very considerably in Nagor and in a less degree in Chitor, but it increased in Ajmir and Rantambhar. The revenue of Ajmir showed a great decline in 1720, but that of every other Sarkar increased, the increase being most striking in Chitor, Jodhpur, and Sirohi. The total provincial revenue was * Under Akbar, Bikanir and Jesalmir together formed one Sarkar (A in. ii. 2770 t Kamalmir is 50 m. N, E. of Sirohi. AJMIR] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. * . Ixiil in 1594 Rs. 72,10,039 in 1697 Rs. 2,19,00,002 1648 1,50,00,000 1700 1,50,74,506 1654 1,62,19,042 1707 ,, 1,63,08634 1665 2,19,70,000 1720 1,7529829 1695 1,38.84,000 Tieff i ,63,08,642. Here the Khulasat adds a good deal to the information ^, -__ A supplied by the Am. The Subahwas made Places of Note up of the three Rajput States, Mcwar, Marvvar, and Haraoti (Bundi-Kota), ace. to the Ain. FORTS : Ajmir, Jodhpur, Bikanir, Jesalmir, A market, Abu-garh, Jhalor, Chitor, Kamalmir, Mandal, and others (A.1 The residence of the gover- nor was at Chitor. (A.) Near Ajmir was the fort of Garh-i-Bithh, the memorial of the mythical Rajah Bithal. In the environs of the city were a large lake named Anasagar and a natural spring named J ha Ira, on the bank of which last was the tomb of Khawajah Muainu-d-din Chishti, to whose shine Akbar so often went on pilgrimage. Push/car ^ a large lake 3 kos from Ajmir, was considered one of the holiest sheets of water in India (K.) Sam- bkar contained a lake from which excellent salt was extracted (K.) The Khulasat describes the process in detail, though the Ain is silent on this particular, Jawarij moth and lahdarah (A, but bajra ace to K ) were grown in this province (A & K.) The revenue was Crops &c always paid in kind, and amounted to \ or \ of the produce (A. & K.) The people lived in conical bamboo huts (A). At Chainpur and some other places (A & K) there were copper mines, which the Ain describes as "ex- tremely profitable." At Jawar, 24 m. S. of Udaipur, was a zinc (or lead?; mine (A.) In the Indian Atlas we find ''copper and lead mines" 6 m. S. of Chenpuria (25 I2N 74'29E.) The /. G. speaks of the zinc mines of Jawar as now unworked. K mentions an iron mine at Gaugarh % a dependency of Chitor ; the name cannot be traced in the Indian Atlas, which, however, gives a Gangrar a few miles N. of Chitor, IXlV INDIA OF AURANGZIB. 10, OUJRAT. Its length from Burhanpur to Dwarka was 302 kos ; and its breadth from Jhalor to Daman 260 kos, or from Edar to Cam bay 70 kos. (A ) Extent. Divisions The following were its divisions : 1594 9 Sarkars, 138 mahals 1665 9 190 parganas 1695 9 1 88 ^mahals 1700 ... 10 216 1720 ... 10 256 Sarkars (1594) (1695) (1720) Ahmadabad, 28 m [The first 8 Sarkars Ahmadabad 34 Pattan 16 of the Am are re- Pattan 16 Nandod 12 peated, but Sirohi* Nandod 12 Baroda 4 is given instead of Baroda 4 Broach 14 Sorath.] Broach H Champanir 9 Champanir 10 Surat 3 1 Surat 37 Godhra 12 Godhra 1 1 Sorath (Kathia- Sorath 63 war) 12 Islarnnagar 15 The total area of measured land decreased from 1,69,36,377 Area and Revenue, biotas in 1594 to 1.27,49,374 bighas in 1720. Area in bigJias Rev in Rs. Sarkars. in 1594 in 1720 in 1594 in 1720 Ahmadabad . 8024,153 63,76,319 5207,675 67,78,179 Pattan 38,so,ooif 24,23,308 15^08,127 10,16.184 Nandod 541.^18 ... 2,10,940 . Baroda 922,212 9,85.415 10 28,647 7,30,296 Broach 3,49771 28,69,141 546,141 14,12,540 Champanir ... 80,337 3,72,184 3,75,247 8,18,567 Surat 13,12,816 7.23,000 4,75,879 I9>65,57i Godhra 5,35,255 ... 85.465 40,502 Sorath 13,20,014. 15,85-934 1171,259 * Evidently a mistake for SoraUi, as Sirohi has been already included in the Subah of Ajmir. t Wrongly given as 3,85,00,015 in A in. ii. 254; I have correc- ted it to 38,50,000 bighas 15 bisuas by adding together the areas of the mahals. GUJRAT ] INDIA OF AURA^GZIB. Here we notice a marked falling off of area in the Sarkars of Ahmadabad, Pattan and Surat, and an increase in Baroda, Broach, and Champanir. The revenue shows a great decrease in Pattan, Baroda, Godhra, and Sorath, and enhancement in Ahmadabad, Broach, Champanir, and Surat. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 1,09,20,557 1648 1,32,50,000 1654 2,17,32,201 1665 i,33>95>ooo 1695 ., 1,45,94750 1697 Rs. 2,33,05,000 1700 i.s^i^S 1707 1,51,96,228 1720 1,32,57,233 Tieff. 1,13,68,728 K. merely repeats A,, adding only five new facts of very minor ,_, - importance, (ii Pattan (Anhilwarra) was the Places of Note. TT , v _ , , Hindu capital from 746 to 1194 A. D. It had 2 forts. (2) Champanir was the next capital, that of the Muham- madans, from 1494 to 1560. It had a fine fort. (3) Ahmadabad, founded in 1412 by Sultan Ahmad, was the seat of the governor under the Mughals. It had 360 porahs (see p. 6i) and 1000 stone mosques. Abul Fazl records that in his time only 84 of the former were in a flourishing condition. In its environs were Rasulabad (the burial-place of Shah Alam Bokhari), Batwa (that of Qutb-i Alam) and Sarkhej (that of Ahmad Khattu, and Sultan Ahmad and other princes.) (4) Mahmudabad\aA beautiful build- ings, villas, and game preserves ; it was founded by Sultan Mah- mud Begarra. (5 & 6) Salir and Mulir, 2 famous forts in the Nosari District. (7) JunagarJi had a stone fort. (8) Osam y a hill-fort. (9) Girnar, another hill-fort HOLY PLACES OF THE HINDUS ; (i) Sidhpuron the Sarsati, a place of pilgrimage. (2) Barnagar had 3000 pagodas, each with a tank. The residents of the city were mostly Brahmans. (3) Som~ nath (also called Pattan) held the famous emblem of Shiva. It had a stone fort and a capacious harbour. Near it were Plial-ka- tirath (the Shrine of the Arrow;, where Krishna was mortally wounded in the foot by a hunter with an arrow. The pipal .tree on the bank of the Sarsati under which he died, gave the name H INDIA OF AUKANGZIB. [GUJRAT of Pipal-sir to the place, which was highly venerated. (4) Mul,* where a miracle annually took place in the temple of Mahadeva, (see p. 65). (5 & 6) Paranchi and Korinar. (7) Palitana^ where there were many Jaina temples and a fort. (8) Dwarka (also called Jagat) had a famous shrine of Krishna, who was believed to have reigned here after leaving Mathura. (9) Girnar had many Jaina temples in its environs . PORTS: (i) Cambay, where many merchants congregated. (2) Surat, a famous emporium and the place of embarkation of pilgrims to Mecca, (3) Broach, another famous port, known in Sanskrit at Bharukacclia and in Greek as Barugaza. The Ain names 21 others. The revenue was assessed by valuation of crops, survey being _ - seldom resorted to (A.) Jawari and bajrah Crops &c. \ ) J J were the staple crops and formed the principal food of the people. Wheat was imported from Malwa, and rice from the Deccan. (A & K.) On the whole, the province was rather backward in agriculture ; but "fruit trees were so numerous that the country might well have been called an orchard" (p. 66) There were numerous mango-groves. Figs, musk-melons, grapes, and pineapples grew in plenty, the first three especially in Kathiawar and the last in Surat. Baglana was famous for its peaches, apples, grapes, pineapples, pomegranates, and oranges (A., or "lemons and mangoes" ace. to K ) Excellent indigo was produced and exported to European Turkey Hedges of prickly pear were set up around the fields, and hence the country was diffi- cult to traverse. (A & K.) Fine oxen were bred in Kan and Pattan ; a pair often sold for Rs.soo (K 'Rs. 500'), and those of the latter place travelled 50 kos in 12 hours ! In Cutch (A. 'Navanagar') camels, goats, and horses of a peculiar breed were found. K, throws light on the origin of the last : ''It is said that * So named by K. A., however, calls it Mill Mahadeo and Bayley GUJRAT] INDIA OF AURANGZIB, once upon a time a merchant was conveying Arab horses by way of the river [or ocean ?] when the ship was suddenly wrecked and a few of the horses reached the bank on planks, and thus arrived in this country. The breed of those horses is still here." (P. 66) In the Bhadar river the fish were so delicate that they melted when exposed to the Sun (A & K) Leopards abounded (A), and were often trapped and trained to hunt (K) This maritime province has been famous from ancient times T , , . for its trade and industries. The vast number Industries- of its natural harbours (each an emporium), its contact with diverse foreign nations, and (probably) its backward- ness in agriculture, all caused the energies of the people to be directed into the channel of industries. A large number of artisans carried on painting, seal-engraving, and inlaying mother- of-pearl on boxes and inkstands. Stuffs of gold embroidery, such as chirak (coloured-turban), fotaJi (loin-band ),/fl;;/#/*zw (flowered woollen stuff), khara (undulated silk cloth), velvets, and brocades were skilfully woven ( A. & K ) Good cloth was manufactured at Pattan (A) and alchah at Broach (K.) Various stuffs of Tur- key Persia and Europe were finely imitated here (A.&K.) Swords, daggers, (esp. the jamdhar and khapwah} y bows and arrows were well made, Somnath being noted for its good swords Rare perfumes (A & K.) of many kinds were manufactured, Nosari being famous for "a manufactory of perfumed oil, found nowhere else." ( A ) A brisk trade was carried on in jewelry and in silver [ K. 'gold' 1 imported from Turkey and Iraq. Salt was extracted from the Rann (A. & K.), the salt duty being levied in Jhalwarah (A). "The roofs of houses are usually of tiles and the walls of burnt brick and lime... The walls [in some houses] have hollow spaces between" (A & K), "and there are secret paths for going in, so that in time of need men can seek their safety by escaping by means of these paths" (K.) "Some wealthy men, having built vaults, cover the buildings with lime and mortar in such a way that the pure and clear rain watefr Ixviii INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ GUJRAT enters into the cave which has been made like a tank/' (K.) The Imp. Gazetteer (i. 97) speaks of the practice as still current, but the Ain does not mention it 11. MULT AN. Length from Firuzpur to Sewistan 403 kos, breadth from Khatpur to Jesalmir 108 kos. [K, '125 kos'\ The province was sub-divided in the following manner : ... 3 Sarkars, 88 mahals Extent Divisions. 1594 ., 1665 1695 - 1700 1720 Sarkars (1594) Multan, 47 m Dipalpur, 29 Bhakkar, 12 4 96 parganas 3 96 mat ials 4 ii 103 4 M 113 (1695) [The 3 Sarkars of the Ain are repeated.] (1720) Multan 53 Dipalpur 24 Bhakkar 15 Sewistan 21 Here we see that the Sarkar of Sewistan, which in 1594 was included in the Subak of Thatha, had by 1720 come to be incorporated with the Subak of Multan. The total area of measured land rose from 32,73,932 bighas Area and Revenue in 1594 to 44,54,207 bighas in 1720. Sarkars Area in bighas in Revenue in Rs. in 1594 1720 1594 1720 Multan ... Dipalpur ... Bhakkar ... 5,58,649 14,33-767 2,82,013 1347.908 32,33,354 4,60,623 31,80,684 6,59,931 6,09,681 44,54,207 The area of the Sarkar of Dipalpur as given by the Chafiar Gulshan is the same as that given for the entire Subah in the MULTAN ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. same work. Hence this figure must be incorrect, though a treb- ling of Akbar's measured area in a century and a quarter would not in itself have been impossible. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 50,41,885 1697 Rs. 50,25,000 1648 70,00,000 1700 49,95057 1654 84,60,529 1707 53,61,073 1665 1,18,40,500 1720 45,90,786 1695 61,15,375 Tieff. 51,59,999- Here K. adds a great deal to the information derived from the (0 Multan, one of the oldest cities of _. *** ^ Places of Note . . India. In Sanskrit Mulasthanpur. The Malli of this place offered a stout resistance to Alexander. In Mughal times the city had a brick fort and a lofty minaret. Here were the venerated tombs of Shaikh Bahau-cl-din Zakaria and others (A. & K.) Among the 'others', K. mentions Shaikhs Sadru-d-din, Ruknu-d-din, Yusuf Kurdezi, Musi Gilani, and Shamsu-d din Tabrizi. (2) The tomb of Sayid Zainu l-Abidin, the father of Sultan Sarwar, 4 kos S. of Multan, and a place of pilgrimage in summer. (K.) (3) Sakhi Sarwar, the burial-place of Sultan Sarwar (a holy warrior of Islam), and his wife and son, 40 kos W. of Mul- tan (K.) The Khulasat gives a long account of the miracles wrought at their tombs (p 74.) (4 Uch, the burial-place of Shaikh Jalal, grandson of Sayid Jalal Bokhari (K.) (5) Ajodkan (modern Pak Pattan), west of Multan, contains the tomb of Shaikh Faridu- d-din Ganj-i-shakkar (K.) (6) Bhakkar (Bukkur), an impregnable fortress on an island in the middle of the Indus, identified by some with Mansurah (A & K.) (7) The Lakhi Jungle. -In the rainy season the Sarkar of Dipalpur becomes flooded. And "when the water subsides, so many jungles spring upf all over this land, owing to the great moisture, that a pedestrian has great difficulty in travelling" and a rider greater still. (K.) The Imp. Gazetteer tells us that this interior upland is "interrupted at places by an impenetrable jungle impassable alike for man and horse" The wise Diwan, Rajah Todar jMal, anticipated the modern 1XX INDIA OF AURANGZIB. ( MULTAN policy of Buffer States by absolutely surrendering to the Baluchis the territory between Kot Korur and Dhankot, to which the Im- perial government had a nominal right, "fixing them as a strong barrier between Hindustan and Khorasan, and thus setting up a firm rampart on the confines of the two countries." (K ) As the Indus every year ate away its banks or shifted its channel, the houses on the two banks were built of wood and straw and not brick or stone. Zabti or assessment of crops at special rates was the custom , , , . rt here. Flowered carpets, satranjis. and chhints Industries &c * J with figures, Were woven in Multan, and Arab horses were brought for sale from Iraq by the Qandhar route. (K). 12. THATHA. For a long time it was an independent country. Akbar annexed it and made it a part of the Subah of Multan. But it was recog- nised as a separate Subah in the following reign, and possibly even in Akbar's time.* Length from Bhakkar to Kach and Mekran 257 kos, breadth ,, from Badin to Lahori Bandar (port) 100 kos Extent. or from Chando (in Bhakkar) to Bikanir 60 kos. (A.> The province was subdivided in the following Divisions. manner : 1594 5 Sarkar. , 53 mahals i66s ... 4 54 parganas 1695 ... 4 58 mahals 1700 ... 4 59 1720 ... 4 60 * The Ain (ii. 339) speaks of Thatha as "the fourth Sarkar ot the Subah of Multan", but a little below it is spoken of as a Subah : "This Subah contains 5 Sarkars? Tieff. gives all the Sarkars of the Ain except Hajkan. THATHA] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Sartors (1594) (1695) (1720) Thatha, 180* Thatha Thatha, 24 Nasirpur 7 Nasirpur Nasirpur 10 Hajkan 11 Hajkan 14 Sewistan 9 Sewistan Chakar-Hala 8 Chakar-Hala 10 Amarkot The Chahar Gulshan includes Sewistan in Multan. In the Ain, Amarkot is only a mahal of the Sarkar of Nasirpur. The area of measured land is not given either by A. or C. Ee venue Sarkars 1594 1720 Thatha Rs. 6,50,000 7,99.391 Nasirpur ., i,95> 8 6$ 3,01,421 Hajkan 2,94,614 2,04,237 Chakar Hala 1,27,135 4,3 Sewistan 3,88,670 3,15740 The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 16,56,285 1648 20,00,000 in 1697 R S - 60,02,000 1700 17,20,025 1654 22,30,750 1707 22,95,420 1665 23,20,000 1720 17,32,938 1695 v 23,74,250 Ticff. 17,20420 The Khulasat supplements the Am in four points only, all of them of minor importance. Otherwise, it Places of Note . . f . merely repeats the mam portion of the inform- ation supplied by the Ain (O Brahmanabid, now in ruins, was the ancient capital of the province. It had a grand citadel with 1400 towers. Then Alor became the capital, and last of all (2} Thatha, also called Debal (A. & K.) The Khulasat adds that Thatha was a great emporium of trade, pearls and other articles being much imported. (3) Niklaj, 70 kos from Thatha on the sea-coast, contained a shrine of Durga, the sanctity of which was enhanced by its difficulty of access. "Sanyasis naked from head to foot, having chosen a life of hunger and thirst, reach this place INPIA OF AURANGZIB. [ THATHA and perform worship. The journey in going and coming back occupies more than 1 5 days and involves many hardships." (K.) The staple food of the people was rice and fish ['and curd/ K.j Excellent shall rice grew here. The revenue Crops &c* . . was realised by division of crops, the share of the State being one-third (A. & K ) In the Manchur lake, fisher- men lived on floating rafts or artificial islands. Mangoes grew in the province, and the wild melon was found in desert tracts. Fine camels were abundant and a good breed of horses was also procurable (A.) Game, especially wild- Animals. , , , j -ij\ asses, hares, nog-deers, and wild boars, were hunted. In the Indus river was found a very sweet-flavoured fish called the pala (A. & K.) Other kinds of fish were dried and ex- ported in boats Fish-oil was extracted and used in boat-building. There were some iron mines and salt pits, which (the Khulasat adds"> yielded a large revenue. Near Thatha Mines. was a quarry 01 yellow stone which was used in building. The A in gives and the Khulasat repeats, a long and interesting account of the Sorcerers ^called 'Liver-eaters') of this province. (Pp 68, 69). It is curious to observe how closely the English superstition about witches resembled the Indian. 13 PAN JAB. Length from the Sutlej to the Indus 180 kos ; Extent. breadth from Bhimbar to Chaukhandi, 86 kos. (A.) The province was divided into doabs in- Divisions. f Sarkars 1594 ... 5 doabs, 232* mahals 1665 ... 14 Sarkars 314 farganas 1695 ... 5 doabs, 316 mahals 1700 ... - 4S 8 1720 ... 5 ii 329 * The A in (ii. 315) gives 234 pargcwas in the preliminary statement, but by adding together the mahals of the Sarkars we get 232 mahals. 1>ANJAB ] INDIA OF AURANGZlfc. Ixxiii Sarkafs (i 594) ] aland har Doab, 60 in Bari 52 Rechnau 57 Chinhat 21 Sind Sagar,, 42 (1695) (1720) [The 5 doabs Jalaydhar Doab, 69 m of the ^fz>/.] Bari ,, 57 Rechnau 49 Chinhat ,, 22 Sind Sagar ,, 48 Kangra 63 The total area of measured land rose from 1,61,55,643 bighas Area and Revenue in i 594 to 2,43,19,960 bighas in 1720. Sarkars Area in bighas in Rev. in Rs. in 1594 1720 1594 i 1720 [alandhar 32,7^,^03 39 39,5 1 8 31 09,130 35.0375' Bari 45,^0,003 5^3^ S 57 35,70,204 49,33.75' Rechnau 42,53,148 c^s.5?,oio 43,01,192 10,66,088 Chinhat 26,33,210 40,41,809 H), T2,S6O 23,17,218 Sind Sagar 14,09,929 12,56,771 12,97,805 35,14.984 Kangra - H,5i,346 The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 1,39,86,460 1707 Rs. 2,06,53,302 1648 2,25,00,000 1,45,29,765 1654 ,, 2,72,43,994 excluding Kangra. 1 720 1665 2,46,95,000 11,59,81,111 1695 ,, 2,23,34,500 [including Kangra. 1697 .. 2,33,95,000 Tieff 2,24,53,304. 1700 2,23,25,985 Places of Note The chapter on the Panjab is by far the longest and most important in the Khulasat, whereas the ac- count of the same province in the Ain i-Akbari is very meagre and incomplete In treating of the Panjab, Abul Fazl is silent on the industries, fairs, important cities, holy men, and other points on which he has usually a wealth of information in the case of other Subahs. On the other hand, the author of the Kkulasat was a native of the Panjab, and he has lovingly recorded I Ixjdv INDIA OF AUKANGZIB. [ PANJAB every piece of information he could collect about his own province. His account is, therefore, accurate, full, and up to-date. and nowise inferior to the best descriptive chapter of the Ain. A brief summary only is possible here ; for the full account the reader is referred to my translation (pp. 80 in,) The few points supplied by the Ain are marked 'A', all the rest, though unmarked, being supplied by K 1 have no space in this chapter for the succession-list of Sikh Gurus (pp. 88-90) and the detailed descrip- tion of the courses of the six rivers of the Panjab (pp. 102-110), which K. furnishes. CITIES : (i) Lahor, supposed to have been founded by Lava, the son of Ramchandra, the hero of the Rama- Lalior van ; hence its other name Lahawar (A. & K.) In the later Hindu period, Sialkot became the provincial capital and Lahor fell into decay But Malik Ayaz, the favourite of Mahfnud of Ghazni restored the town and defended it by a fort, and it again became a capital and remained so under the last two Ghaznivide kings. Under Tatar Khan, a noble of Bahlol Lodi, it again became the seat of government. Subsequently it was repaired and enlarged by Akbar. (A. & K ) Jahangir loved it particularly, and he increased its beauty and importance in various ways. He lies buried at Shahadra, on the other bank of the Ravi, and near him sleeps his brother-in-law and minister, Asaf Khan. Near Lahor Shah Jahan laid out the famous garden of Shalimar which was one of the wonders of India. Aurangzib constructed a bund, 2 kos in length, to prevent the encroachment of the Ravi upon the town. He also built a lofty stone mosque at a cost of 5 lacs of Rupees. But the cathedral (jama ) mosque of Wazir Khan is more celebrated. The saint Pir Ali Hajuri lies buried in this town. (2) Jalandkar contains the tombs of the saints Nasiru d-din and Abdulla Sultanpuri. (3) Guru Govind Chak Other Cities. had a large garden and tank to which pilgrim- ages were made annually. (4) Ramtirath, a holy place. (5; Batala ( in the modern Gurdaspur District) was the birth-place of the PANJAB ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. IxXV author of the Khulasat. A long and minute account of its foundation, history, buildings, and holy men, has been given in pp. 83-87 of my translation. In its environs were the tombs of many holy men. (6) At Dhiafipur, near Batala, lived the Hindu saint Babalal, who was much respected by Dara Shekoh. (7) Achal, 2 kos from Batala, contained the shrine of Kartik, the son of Mahadeva. At the vernal equinox a mela took place here, of which a graphic description has been given in pp. 91-93. (8) At the foot of the hill-fort of Kangra is Nagarkot, con- taining the shrine of Bhavani. Pilgrims visited it in September and February. Some of them, in order to gain their wishes, used to cut out their tongues ( A., but K. adds that others severed their heads) before the idol, but the lost limbs were restored miraculously, and the men lived. ( A. & K. ) (9) Jawala- mukhi, 10 kos from Nagarkot ; here tongues of flame issued from the ground and were worshipped as a manifestation of the Devi (A. & K.) (10) Sialkot, supposed to have been founded by Shalya (a hero of the Mahabharat,) and restored by Shalivahan (the founder of the Shaka era),, an old fort being traditionally ascribed to the latter. In later times it was repaired by Shahabu- d-din Ghori, Man Singh, and Masdar Khan Faujdar in succession. Among the 'pious founders' of the town were many members of the Jaina. tribe of Bhabra. In the rainy season, when its canal over-flowed, the townsmen merrily disported themselves in the water on inflated skins. It was a scat of Muhammadan learning, the school kept by Maulana Kamal and his descendants being especially famous (ii) DJwnkal, 4 m. S. of Wazirabad, a place of pilgrimage (12) Purmandal, 14 m. S. E. E of Jummu city, had a temple of Shiva, to which pilgrims, mostly hill-men, flocked in the month of Baisakh. (13) Sodhra^m. N. E. of VVazirabad. Near it Ali Mardan Khan, the famous engineer of Shah Jahan founded a city named Ibrahimabad after his son, and laid out a fine garden, watered by a canal issuing from the Tavi river. (14) Gujrat, a town founded in the reign of Akbar, as the headquarters of a separate pargana created by detaching villages 1XXV1 INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ PANJAB from the pargana of Sialkot. Shah Daula,a holy man of this town, whose illumination of mind was believed to have led him to dis- cover hidden treasure, spent large sums in adding buildings and bridges to the town and otherwise increasing its splendour. One of these bridges is given in the Indian Atlas (p. 98 of translation.) (15) Balnath Jogi (or Tilla), a hermitage and resort of Jogis, where pilgrims assembled on the Shiva-ratri. (A. & K.) (16) Atak Banaras, a famous fort built by Akbar, was the ethnic frontier of India. "It is a city ... midway between Hindustan and Kabulistan, so that on this bank the manners, customs, and lan- guage are Indian, while on the other bank are the houses of the Afghans and Afghan customs and speech" Just below it the Indus swept violently through a narrow channel. The danger of the passage was increased by two jutting precipices of black slate, which formed a whirlpool between them. Many boats were wrecked here. The name of the rock ( Jalali ) originated in a bon mot of Akbar (p. 109) (17) There was a sacred lake (named Kota Chhinal) in the mahal of Makhiala. It rivalled in sanctity the Pushkar lake of Ajmir. The Pan jab was a very fertile province (A.) Cultivation depended upon irrigation from wells (A. & K.) Crops &c. ' very good water-wheels were constructed by mechanics here. The autumn crops depended upon rain (K.) Musk-melons could be had all the year round. (A) Excellent vine, mango, rice, and sugar* cane grew here. Snow was brought down from the northern mountains (A) by the rich to cool their drinks. Horses of good breed were procurable, csp. at Awdn (A., or 'Astpur-mati' according to K.) On this point the Ain is absolutely silent, and all our know- ledge comes from the Khulasat. Bajwara Industries. , r TT , . ( ii m. trom Mosniarpur ) was famous for its cloth manufacture, esp. sirisaf> adhars (?), doriah, panch tolia^ jhona, white chirah, and gold-embroidered jotah. At Sultanpur in the Jalandhar doab, chhint, dolai> and embroidered cloths were finely made. Sialkot was celebrated for the manufacture of paper PANJAB] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Ixxvif (esp. silk-paper and a variety called the Man-singhi], embroidered cloth (esp. bafta } chirah, fotah. sozani. adsaka (?), table-cloth, tray- covers, and small tents), and weapons (\\\z jamdhar, katari^ and lance.) At Gujrat were manufactured swords, jamdkars, and embroidered cloth. A species of horse resembling the Arab, was bred here, some of them selling for a thousand Rupees each. Near the salt mines of Shamsabad, trays dishes lamps and other fancy-articles of rock-salt were made (A). Similar art-ware was also manufactured from sweet lime in that region. The A in mentions copper and iron mines at Sakct and Mandi in the Jalandhar doab. salt mines at Dhankot Mines on the Indus and at Makhiala and Shamsabad. The Khulasat mentions the last two places only, and gives a long account (pp. 100, 101) of the extraction of rock-salt near Sham- sabad and the names of the best mines (Keora and Khura.) From the A in we learn that the merchants purchased rock -salt from the mines at 2f to 9;.; pics a maund, the landlord charged a royalty of 4 annas on each porter of salt (i.e., on say ii maunds;, and the State levied a duty of iij pies on every maund. Thus, a maund of salt at the pit's mouth cost in all from 5 annas if. pies to 5 annas 8-]~ pies ; a little less than 5J annas on an average was the cost price of rock-salt in Akbars reign. There was also a quarry of sweet lime in this region (K). In Jummu there was a mine of tin (qal'i} ''Taking gravels from the river Tavi and setting them on fire, tin of unparalleled whiteness, hardness, and durability" was made (p. 98.) u ln some places in the northern mountains, there are mines of gold, copper, brass, and iron, which yield re- venue to the Imperial government" (K ) In certain rivers, esp. the Bias and the Jhilum, gold. (the Ain adds 'silver, copper, rut, zinc, brass, and lead') was obtained by washing sand. (K ) 14. BE EAR. Length from Pitalwari to Wairagarh 200 60s, breadth from Bidar to Hindia i8o/fotf (A. & K.) Ixxviii INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ BERAR Divisions. 1594 ... 1665 ... 1695 ... 1700 ... 1720 ... Tieff. ... The province was divided in the following manner : 13* Sarkar s, 242 parganas 20 191 200 mahals (No Sarkar named.) 10 12 10 13 Sarkar s (i 594) Gawil, Panar Kherla Narnala Kallam Basim Mahur Pathri Mahkar Pitalwari Manik-durg Telingana Ramgarh 200 (1720) 46 parganas Gawil, 5 35 34 3i 8 20 18 4 9 8 19 5 Panar Kherla Narnala Kallam Basim Mahur Pathri Mahkar 46 mahals 4 24 37 28 8 21 II 22 Pitalwari 9 Area and Revenue We do not know the area of measured land under Akbar, but in 1720 the province had 2,00,28,100 bighas. The Chahar Gulshan does not give the taqsim jama or revenue of the different Sarkars, hence a detailed com- parison with the A in is impossible. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 1,60,65,082 in 1697 1,58,07,500 1648 1,37,50,000 1700 2,31,63,625 1654 1,47,65,000 1707 1,53,50,625 1665 1,5875,000 1720 2,25,60,000 1695 - 1,51.81,750 Tieff. 2,03,50,625 See anic xxvi. ;/ t. BERAR] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Ixxix K. and C, merely reproduce the account of the Ain, the first in a very abridged form and the second more Places of Note - . r . f , , fully ; the only item of information that they add is that monkeys abounded in the country ! TOWNS : (f) Ellich- pur, the provincial capital, produced a beautiful flower named the bhum-cliampa. (2) Shahpur, a city which grew out of the encamp- ment of Prince Murad, son of Akbar. (3) Kherla, a fort on a plain, containing a hillock which was worshipped, HILL FORTS : (l) Gawil, (2) Panar, (3) Narnala, (4) Mahur, containing a temple of Jagad-dhatri), (5) Ramgarh, (6) Manikdurg, (7) Pital- ivari, which had 24 temples cut in the sides of its neighbouring hills. There were a petrifying well near Khcrla and a petrifying spring near Melgarh. Lake Lonar (Sanskrit Lavaneshvar} was considered sacred by the Hindus and named Vishnu-Gaya, one of the three Gayas of the world. Near it a spring flowed in a miraculous manner out of a rock shaped like a cow's mouth (p. 145). A great part of the province was covered by forests ; the chief inhabitants were savage races like the Gonds, Animals- , l except in the western side where there were Rajput settlers. Wild elephants abounded near Khcrla, Waira- garh, and Ranigarh ; buffaloes were numerous near Kallam, Mahur (where they yielded half a maund or more of milk each), Indor, and Narnala. Mines of steel and other metals existed near Indor and Nar- nala. Near Wairagarh were diamond mines, Mines, &c. ' (the Imp. Gazetteer adds 'ruby mines') ; but they are no longer worked. Figured cloth was woven at Waira- garh ; excellent stone utensils were carved at Indor and Narnala ; the materials for the manufacture of soap and glass were extract- ed and salt petre produced from the Lonar lake Lustre was given to weapons of steel by dipping them in the water of a spring in Gawil. Ixxx INDIA OF AUKANGZIB. [ BERAR The following forts belonged to this province : Forts. (Chahar Guts ban.) (Tieffenthaler, i. 365) Gawil Gawil Kamla Khelna Narnala Parnala Nauagarh Golconda Baila? Manda Babhalgarh ? Hdmgarh 15. KHANDESH. Length from Boregaon (adjoining the Sarkar of Hindia) to ^ Laling (near Dhulia) 7^ kos ; breadth from Extent- " Jamod (in the modern Akola District) to Pal (adjoining Malwa) 50 kos, and in some parts 25 kos only. Divisions. J 594 ... T Sarkar 32 mahals 112 3 134 J720 ... i 133 The area of measured land in 1594 is not given Area and Revenue . .. , . . . 00 . . 7 by the Am, that in 1720 was 88,00,001 btghas. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 1,13,82,556 | in 1697 Rs. 1,11,05,000 1648 ,. 1,00,00,000 j 1700 ,, 1,05,00,000 1654 1,24,23,250 1707 1,12,15,750 1665 . 1,85,50,000 1720 1,15,00,750 1695 1,10,90,475 Ticff. 7^,15,755 K. and C. merely repeat the account of A., the first adding two unimportant points (viz., the growth of Places of Note \ . & aloes near Burhanpur and the weaving of alfia cloth in this province), the second adding what is more import- ant, a description of Ahmadnagar and a legend about its capture. This province was named Khan- desk or 'the country of the Khan' from Nasir Khan (named Ghizni Khan by A. and Gharib Khan by K.), who ascended the throne in 1 399, first assumed the ensigns KHANDESH] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. of royalty, and received the title of Khdn from his suzerain, the king of Gujrat (Ferishta). In Akbar's time, Prince Danial was appointed Viceroy and the province was re-named* after him Dan-desh, a name which it soon lost, (i) Talnir, a strong fort was the first capital (13821480) ; (2) Burhanpur next succeeded. In Akbar's time (3) Aszr, a strong hill-fort conquered by Abul Fazl, was the seat of the Governor. There were many gardens near Burhanpur; sandal-wood (and aloes/ K.) grew here. It had a large population including thriving artisans of various classes. (4 & 5) Pipaldol (in Jamod) and Malkdmad, 2 hill-forts. HOLY PLACES of the Hindus: (i) Near Adilabad was a holy lake in which King Dasaratha expiated his sin (the accidental shooting of a hermit's son.) Tieffenthaler describes Adilabad as 'a city surrounded partly by stone walls, with a small and very old fort, situated on the bank of the Parna,' (p. 368). (2) Damarni ('Amarni,' C.) contained a tank in which a hot spring constantly bubbled up. (3) Near the town of Chopra the Tapti and the Girni united, and there was the holy shrine of Rameswar at their confluence. (4) Near the village of Cliangdeo, the Tapti and the Purna mingled together. It was called Chakra-tirtha "j* and contained an idol of Shiva, about which a legend was told. Near it was a spring of miraculous origin (A&C.) The peasants were docile and industrious ; scarcely any land was out of cultivation ; the villages were very populous and flourishing (A.) Jawari was the chief cultivation, in some places three crops of it were raised in the year. Rice of good quality and betel-leaf in abundance grew here (A., K., and C.) Good cloth stuffs were woven in the province, especially sirisaf Industries. and bhiraun (K. 'and alfid) at Dharamgaon. * C{, the title of Azimabad given to Patna by its Governor, Prince AsimU'Sk'shan^ in 1703 A. D. t Tieffenthaler mentions in his chapter on Oudh ( p. 276) Chakratirtha, 'a reservoir on the bank of which is a temple sacred to Bherouri (Bhairava or Shiva) j IxXXli INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ KHANDESH Forts (CJiahar Gulshaii) (Tieffen thaler, p. 365) I. Burhanpur same 2. Asirgarh ... same 3- Rudi Manik * Aurang-garh 4- Hargarh Marg-garh 5- Maura-garh > M6ra 6. Parnala Paniala 7- Fatihabad Narabad 8. Bhatnir Balissar 9- Mul .- Maol 10 Mujha Mular ir. Sultangarh Aurdngarh 12. Sanula Pania-gola 13- Songarh Sonda or Piinda 16. KASHMIR _ . Length from Oambar Vcr (Phamber ?) to the Extent """ Kishan-Ganga, \2Qkos, breadth from 10 to 25 kos (A) or 80 kos (K.) In Akbar's time the whole country was regarded as one Sarkar, but Abul Fazl found it convenient to retain Divisions ........ . the old division into two tracts the Mar-raj in the east (with 22 mahals) and the Kamraj in the west with 16 mahals], with further subdivisions, as given below. These last were evidently mistaken by C/p. 132) for a division into 7 Sarkars. 1594 ... i Sarkar, 38 mahals i66s 5 45 parganas 1695 ... I 46 mahals 1700 . . . - ,, 53 1720 ... 7 75 i, Tieff. n 44 parganas * Tieff. (p. 484) mentions a fort named Rudar Mai in the Subah of KASHMIR ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. IxXXItl (IS94) 0720) Mar-raj Tract (22 mahals^ Environs of Kashmir, 36 m Srinagar city, I m Kamraj, 22 m. East of Srinagar, 3 m Srinagar, 3 N. E. 7 N. 7 S. E. ii S E. ii Kam-raj Tract (16 mahals) [The othcr Mah<* ls are not N. W. 2parganas accounted for.] S. W. 12 [The other two mahals are not accounted for.] Revenue. The total provincial revenue was in 1594 Rs. 15,52,826 | in 1697 Rs. 35,05,000 1648 37.50,000 1700 ,, 69,477^4 1654 ,, 28,59,750 1707 ,< 5747,734 1665 3,50,000 ? | 1720 53-20,502 1695 31,57,125 | Ticff 25,00,000 The Khulasat has merely copied much of the account of the Ain, adding only one item of original inform- PlacesofNote. ^.^ = ^^ ^ .^ ^ ^ kinds . (l) soft and moist, and (2) hard and black 1 ' ! Still more evident is the ignor- ance of the author of the Chahar Gulshan concerning Kashmir. As the whole chapter deals with marvels and miracles, and the account of the A in itself is far from correct, a summary of it has not been given here. But I should like to draw the reader's attention to the extracts from Dr. Stein's Memoir quoted in the foot-notes of my translation. 17. AU RAN GAB AD. At this point we are deserted by the A in and the Khulasat. A comparison between the Deccan of Akbar Authorities for ^ ^ Deccan of Aurangz ib is impossible, the Deccan. because only a very small portion of the Deccan owned the sway of Akbar. Still, a description of the Deccan 1XXX1V INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ AURANGABAD after its annexation to the Mughal Empire is not without interest or importance. The author of the Khulasat tries to give an account of the Subah of Aurangabad ; but the Ain^ which he has so long faithfully copied, now fails him, and he shows his own ignorance. His account of Aurangabad is not worth the paper it is written on. It is exactly like an article such as a clever sub- editor would write in the 'silly season/ when hard pressed for 'copy' in the midst of an absolute dearth of news. The whole of p. 49 of my translation contains nothing but vague rhetoric. The only useful things that the author gives are the history of Daulata- bad and the extent and revenue of the province. Happily, Tieffcnthalcr comes to our aid here His account of the Deccan is taken from some Persian works which he does not name, but which seem to have included a Dastur-al-amal (called by him 'a register of the empire') and the sources of the Chahar Gulshan. Henceforth I shall place the two (T. and C.) side by side in my description. The province of Aurangabad had a length of 150 kos and a breadth of 100 kos (K.) East of it lay Berar, west Salhir and Mulhir (in the Nosari Dis- trict), south Bijapur, north Burhanpur and the river Pambra (C ) Divisions. 1665 8 Sarkars, 79 parganas 1695 ... 8 80 mahals 1700 ... 14 140 1720 ... ii 116 Tieff. ... 14 140 The following are the 1 1 Sarkars mentioned by the . Chahar Gulshan \ (i) Daulatabad (or Aurangabad), 19 mahals, (2) Ahmad- nagar, 20 m, (4) Jalna, 10 m, (4) Islamabad Kokan 7 ;;z, (5) Shola- pur, 3 m, (6) Jooner ? 13 m, (7) Pattan ? 3*0, (8) Sir? i m, (9) Purainda ? 19 #z, (10) Sakha ? 1 1 m, (11) Fatihabad, n m. Tieff- enthaler incidentally mentions the following "principalities and governments" as belonging to this province : (i) Sopan in the Kokan, (2) Baglana, (3) Javar, a district between Baglana and AURANGABAD] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Ixxxv Kokan*. He speaks of Ahmadnagar (or Balghat) as a province distinct from Aurangabad and yielding a revenue of Rs. 1,64,12,500 (i. 490). The total area of measured land in 1720 was 2,5570,950 bighas. Area and Revenue- \C) The total provincial revenue was in 1648 Rs. 1,37,50,000 in 1707 Rs. 2,58,73,622 1654 1,26.79,000 1720 v 2,95,00,002 1665 1,72,27,500 Tieff.-f" 2 ' 57 ' SI ' 22S 1695 1,29,07,500 ie '1,, 2,51,24,125 I700 S 2 >95>93,375 (Thomas, p. 42) i,, 2,60,71,119 (Dastur. MS. D 163) (i) Daulatabad, anciently called Dhara nagari, and then ._, ,., Deogir When Muhammad Tiurhlaq made Places of Note & i it his capital, he re-named it Daulatabad (1338 A. D.) The Mughal forces captured it in 1632 A. D. (2) At the village of Khirki, 10 m. from it, Aurangzib founded a new city which he named after himself Aurangabad. This was the pro- vincial capital under the Mughals. Here are Aurangzib's palace and the mausoleum of his wife. (3) Ahmadnagar. C. describes this city in the account of Khandcsh, but includes the Sarkar of Ahmadnagar in the Subah of Aurangabad Near the city were two famous gardens, the Fara-bagli and the Bihisht-bagh Tieffen thaler thus describes them: "Ahmadnagar is a large and populous town, 2\ m. in circuit, 5 stages distant from Aurangabad and Satara alike It is adorned with magnificent buildings and is watered by a canal which conducts water to the houses. There are many gardens in and ar6und it, of which the principal, named Farabagh, is 2000 * He further (i. 505) speaks of the following cities of the Kokan as having formerly belonged to Nizamu-l-mulk (j;Vr), hut been afterwards annexed by Aurangzib to the province of Aurangabad : (i) Kaliani ; with 499 villages, (2) Bimbri\ with 463 v. ($) Janol with 170 v. (4) Aminabad^ with 180 v. (5) Karnala with 123 v. (6) Kunbhal with 22 'places' (7) Nagina with 249 v. (8) Goshala t with 63 'places,' (9) Kunch, (10) Vergorna&N\ti\ \ 16 v. (i 1} Nasrapur with 50 v. (12) Vabra> with 31 v. and (13) Sablak with 151 villages. Ixxxvi INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ AURANGABAD yards in circuit, In the centre of it is a tank 528 yards in circuit and fed with water brought from the hills by subterranean canals. In this tank is a large and lofty building with a high cupola and 320 rooms. Another garden, named Paradise \i.e. 9 Bihisht-bagh] is 612 yards long ( ?) and has an octagonal tank, from the middle of which rises a magnificent edifice." ^Condensed trans, of p. 490.) The province was famous for its sugar-cane (esp., the soft and black variety) and man^o. Cocoa-nut erew in Crops &c- . f abundance, and so also did betel-leaf, rice, and the flower kcora. The ChaJiar Gulshan (p. 162) mentions 144 forts as belonging to this province, while Tieffenthaler (i. 479) gives 141 only. I have put the latter within brackets by the side of those names of the former of which they seem to be variants The numbers arc those which the forts bear in my translation Forts. 1. Kaliani (Kalian) 22. 2. Bakhari (Muktari Sewai) 23. 3. Puri (Goh6ra) 24. 4. Qila Manik (Manik) '^3- 5. 5 , Masi (Bassi) 26. 6. Balgarh (Malgarb) 7. Manranjan (same) 27. 8. Mankar-garh (Malak-garh) 28. 9. Sarmar-rai (Marmardarai) 29. Jo, Bhamri (Kasmari) 30. II. Dhankhora (Dhan Bavara) 31. 13. Barrilaf (Rdssef) 33. 14. Bahr&ngarh (Bheroun-garh) 34. 15. Barili (Parli) . 36. 16. Durg-garh (same) 37. 17. Sardari (Sorwari) 38. 1 8. Rampuri (Rajoii) 39. 19. Ratan-garh (same) 40. 20. Sdrda-durg (Saradurg) 42. 2 1 . Sakatra ( Bhenkara) Son-garh (Loungarh) Snrpal-diirg (Sorandurg) Koliana (Gopala) Kur-garh (Gorgarh) KalantU (Calaya) Khora / (Catora) Kanak-dnrg (Cantdurg) Ghosala (Gossala) Mat-garh (Mangarh) Manik-garh (same) Madh-garh ( ) Mandal-garh (Mandan-garb) Mulk-garh (Merg-garh) Haidar-garh (same) Manpdl-garh (Betal-garh) M6r-garh (Surgarh) Isa-garh (Alfagarh) Go-ganj (Cocandeh) Deodand (Deodita, commonly called Deotana) AURANGABAD] INDIA OF AURANGZIB, Ixxxvii 43. Uniri (Aondbari) 46. Chdndbari (Chandiri) 47. Dhak (same) 48. Koplds (Kelass) 49. Konkdna (Gangdna) 50. Udurg (Aod durg) 51. Bisrdm-garh (Rdmgarh) 52. Bhuri (Bavani) 53. Sauddgir (Songarh) 54. Padam-durg (Padam-garh) 55. Partab-garh (same) 56. Puma (Torna) 57. Chandan-garh (same) 58. Raj-garh ( ) 59. Rajdnrg () 60. Karur (Karod) 61. Khanderi (same) 62. Kotwal-garh (Khewal-garh) 63. Kalman-gaih (Kalje-garh) 64. Kdnu (Kdmdri) 66. Makarand-gaih (same) 67. Dabdal-garh (Didan-garh) 68. Waniiba (Darssona) 69. Bansli (Beli) 70. Sakota (Masm'nia) 71. Ahangarh (Rengarh) 72. Bandd-garh (Massandgarb) 73. Kijr garh (Kanjar-garh) 74. Suddas (Massudak) 75. Harsal (Marsul) 77. Begampur (same) 78. Daulatabad (.,) 79. Ajldu (Achala) 80. Ahmadnagar (same) 81. Islamabad or Jalnd (or Chakla) 82. Azim-garh (Azimgarh or M6r) 84. Amur (Anb6r) 85. Aud-gir (And-garh) 86. Usa (Oss^r) 87. Undh (Aonda) 88. Islamabad or Rdiri(Islam-garh or Rapari) 89. Anjrdni (Anjerai) 90. Alang (same) 91. Anki-banki (Atki-patki) 93. Bahadur-garh or Bikapur ( or Nandagaon) 94. Bula (Turia) 95. Buhdr (Lossiara) 96. Sarddri (Sarfardzi) 97. Bdni-garh (Maga-garh) 98. Malih (Paniala) 99. Sdlih (Pencl) 100. Ptirainda (Barbada) 101. Nand-gaon (see 93) 102. Bhim-garh (Pemgarh) 103. Bamar-bank (Bandeka) 104. Warangal-darf ( Portugal Bdri or the garden of the Portuguese) 105. Judhan (Jcklhi) 106. Jaula (Jurna) 107. Chdndpur (Jawand-d6r) 1 08. Parand (Mdrand) 109. Chanun (Chcvval) no. Dharat (Derp) in. Dabhra(Ddra) 112. Rajmand (Rajend) 113. Rdjkot (same) 144. Rdsanj (Rdmsej) 115. Rtila (Dola) 1 1 6. Sadhu-durg (Madh6r-durg) 118. Sagar-garh (same) 119. Son- garh () 120. Sholdpur (Sevvapur) 121. Qandhdr (same) 122. Fatihabad or Dhdri ( or Dhdrgarh ) 123. Gulbarga (same) 124. Khaddsa (Gunddna) 125. Kahan-garh (Khatan-garh) Ixxxviii INDIA OF AURANGZIB. AURANGABAD 126. Kalubi (Khanoti) 127. Khajar-bajar (Kanjar-manjar) 129. Kurang (K6rand) 130. Guldhar (Calossora) 131. K&nra (Kandana) 132. Kurang (Koarand) 133. Kalul-garh (same) 134. Kar-garh (Mer-garh) 135. Lauh-garh (same) 136. Muftahu-1-fatuh (same) 138. Markand (Markandeo) 139. M&huli (same) 140. Manik-ganj () 141. Mahur () 142 Nal-durg () 143. Sarbas (Harbans) 144. Harchand-garh (same) The following forts are mention, ed by the Chahar-Gidshan only : 12, Dargdhi-khora 32. BaU 35. Basant-garh 41. Bhaskar 44. Unak-danda 4$. Mulk-garhi 65. Bari 76. Aurangabad 83. Buna 92. Ahuhat ii 6. Sinkhar 128. Nakhra 137. Bndh. The following forts are mention- ed by TierTenthaler alone : Dilk^na Kunch (Kunja ?) Arsgir Asse-ewar Mukund-garh Mal-gir Ao-garh Amora Gorek-chand Madma-kund. 18. BIJAPUR. North of it Extent. lay Aurangabad, in the south Adoni and the Krishna river, in the cast Gulburga, and in the west Tull-ghat (in Kokan) (C.) According to Tieffenthaler (i. 498) its length extended from the Tamira river to Setubandh Rameswar, and its breadth from Chaul* and Dhabulf to the frontier of Orissa. Neither the Chahar GulsJian nor Tieffenthaler gives all its Sarkars and mahals ; but the Dastur-al-amal assigns to the province 15 Sarkars and 114 Divisions. * A port about 8m. S, of Kolaba. t A port due west of Satara. BIJAPUR ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Ixxxix mahals. Tieffenthaler incidentally mentions the following divi- sions : $ I. Bijapur ( 'domain' ) 2. 3- Bad am Kokan. i 6. 7. Lakmir ( 'principality' ) 8. Gadak ( 'district' ) Balsar ( ) () 9- 10. IT. Deughi ( ) Ossa ( 'district' ) 4. Sholapur ( 'canton' ) 5. Dhar () Sikhar ( ) The Chahar Gulshan incidentally names two Sarkars only, (12) Nurkal and the Kokan, The Kokan was sub-divided into the following parganas. Here Tieffenthaler (i. 506) helps us to correct the Chahar- Gulshan (pp. 155 & 156 of transla- tion). (Chahar Gulshan] 1. Kubir or Bhagundd, 748 mauzas, Rev. Rs. 4,91,819 2. [Not named] 927;;, 63,763 3. Muzaffarabad, 1,66,875 4. [Not named] -~ 45,000 5^ Kodana, 56;;;, 7^33^ 6. Sarangah 33,750 7. Khalo, 235;;;, 1,66,875 8 Stihli, 52 w, ; , 4^,000 (Tieffenthaler} Kota or Ponnda, 749 villages, Rev. Rs. 4,91,812 Khelna, 92 vill , Turghod Solwdla, 50 vill , Pachaiben, 50 vill., Ragnti, 100 vill., Barzaptir, 235 vill , Siiri, 72 vill., 81,226 18,125 72,500 33,750 1,86,875 45,000 1700 1707 1720 TiefT. Places of Note. The total provincial revenue was in 1697 Rs. 5,00,00,000 fS,63,68,T78 (ace to Thomas, p 43) 15,63,70,688 (ace. to Dastur, MS. D. 163.) 2,69,57,625 3,36,84,771 ^cash realisation.') C 5, 88,87, 500 C acc - to a Register of the Empire') \2,48,75,ooo ('the [actual] annual revenue') (i) Bijapiir. C gives a long account of its siege and capture. Here the most noticeable thing is Aurangzib's suspicious habit and mean-mindedness, which we may contrast with Akbar's frank spirit and large hearted kind- K XC INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ BIJAPUR ness in dealing with conquered enemies.* (2) Torna^ a hill-fort situated on^the top of a hill, (18-14 N. 73*17 E.) The walls were of stone, and about 5 yards in thickness. Of its two gates only the northern one was kept open. It was 1395 yards in circuit, with 24 towers and 389 parapets. A ditch 9 yds. broad surround- ed the fort, but it ran dry in summer (3) Nagarkot, a fort on a plain, buit by Ram Raja, ruler of the Karnatik. (C). Tieffenthaler (PP- S3 an d S4) thus describes it : "It is situated on a slight elevation, on the frontier of the Karnatik, close to the further bank of the Kahati river. It has two gates, one in the S. E, the other in the North towards the river. The ditch runs east up to the bank of a tank. It contains two wells into which one descends by steps. The wall has been constructed with irregular stones. The fort is 24 or 50 miles from Bijapur, according to the road followed. The circumference of the walls is 1475 yds. with 1422 embrasures. There are in all 18 towers ; the ditch is a dry one. The gate is about 14 yds. broad and 7 yds. deep. The interior parapet of the wall is 3 to \\ yards (thick) Crops, Industries, &c. Not given separately for this province. The Chahar Gulslian (see p. 164) mentions 120 forts, while Tieffenthaler gives 131 in his list ( i. 497 ). I have put the latter within brackets. The numbers are those which the forts bear in my translation. i. Bijapur (same) 2. Islam-gain () 3. Alang (Aland) 4. Achalpur (Amelpur) 5. AmaUink (Ankalang) j 6. Rewni (Anoli) 7. Aniraj-durg (Bijraj-durg) 1 8. An darnel (Endor) 9. Ast-garhi (Amel-giri) 1 ii. Turn (Marvi) * "In this year (1588), Sadik Khan [Akbar's] governor of Bhakar, under orders, proceeded to attack the country of Tatta... Jani Beg, ruler of Tatta,... sent envoys with suitable gifts to the Imperial Court. The Emperor took compassion on him, and sent ^farman to Sadik Khan, saying, "I bestow the country upon Jani Beg. Withdraw from its occupation." (Elliot, v. 456) Jani Beg was created a noble of the court, commanding 5,000 horse. Similarly, the king of Kashmir, on making his submission to Akbar, was enrolled among the nobles of the Empire and granted a large jagir in Bihar. BIJAPUR ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XCl 12. Panch-dnrg (Bije-durg) 61. Shah mandar (S&da-bandar) 14. Mahinvgarh (Bhim-garhj 62. Wazir-garh (same) 1 5. Sudar-g^rh (Bi'mdar-garh) 6> Vilait-garh () 1 6: Badnur(Badl6r) 64. Hum a (Holia) 17. Sak-durg (Sdldnrg) 65. Bank a bala (Makabalad) 19. Bdi-buzdni (Rai-borani) 66. Harbans-garh (same) 22. Banli (Bhaou) 67. Chandan-garh (Chanda-garh) 23. Salliki (Sankali) 68. M ah ul-garh ( S am an-g arh) 24. Sadh-garh (Sidh-garh) 69. (iulaband-garh(Calanedh-garh) 25. Nupar-garh (Lopar-garh) 70, Ciandharb-garh (same) 26. Sapandan-durg (Mandan-garh) 71- Mor-garh (Murka) 27. Susar (Sawai ) 72. Naulpur (Lolpiu 1 ) 28. Siah-durg (Sita-durg) 73- M ard an - ga i h (same) 29. Kalki (Kalanki) 78. Asgharnagar or Akluj (Assad- 30. Kisan-garh (Kap.'il-garh) nagar or Akluj) 31. Lakhmir (same) So Imtiaz-garh (Ambar-garh Ri'i- 32. Lumsi-garh (Lussigarh) cloli*) 33. Nadar-garh (same) 81. Kaburah (Kaloia) 34. Bhdl-garh (Nah:il-garh) 82. Mtinini (Miirdhani) 35. Mahammat-garh (Bhemat-garh) 3- Banal-garh (Bangarh ) 36. Mandhi-garh (Mohib-garh) 84. Biisutimin (Lessuhan) 37. Nandu-garh (Nandi-gaih) 85. ikildtt garh (same) 38. Bdlslpur (Malapur) 89. Bunsi (same) 39. llarang (Marand) 90. "Mathura (Mahora) 40. Dangpur (Delpur) 91. Nural (same) 41. Bhukhan-garh (Puhar-garh) 92. Manga Ikot () 42. Muclgal (Mukel) 95- Rajhans-garh (Rajsissgarh) 45. Mandpdl (Nandpul) 97- Anmal-garh (Birpiil-garh) 47. Bundi-kotha (Londi kot) 98. San kul a (S angola) 51. Bundi 1 t ,. , x \ (Sundi-kot) 52. KotpurJ 99. 100. Sadhur/Sidhpur) vSachinand-garh ( Sodanand 54. Rasul-garh (Rehu-garh) laka) 55. Kandal-garh (Kundan-garh) IOI. Sribast-garh (Siri mast-garb) 56. Kular-garh (Kolar) 102. Harkona-garh (Hargovand) ; 57- Jub-garh (Jeri-koh) 103. Kanul-garh (Nakpnr-garh) 58. Bhiim-garh (Bhum-Shankar) 104. Martaza-bfld {Martazabad, com- 59. Rahim-gaih (same) monly called Mcrch) 60. Ruin-garh () 105. Mangal-band (Mangal-garh) A mistake for Adoni. XCtl INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ BIJAPUR 107. Baldatpai (Baland-garh) 108. Mdham.(Manjan) 1 10. Sabanjdn-garh (Sobans-garh) in. Mandal garh (Mdndar-garh) 112. Mahmdngarh (Masnad garb) 113. Nasirabad (same, also called Darb&r) 114. Nandpal (same) 115. D iir ti-g a r h ( D ilr u ga r h ) 1 16. Bijuli (same) 1:7. Huli-garh (Muli-garh) 1 1 8. Hali-hiU (Beli-jal) 119. Huli-honur (Holipur) 120. Hun mail (Bhubali) The following forts are mentioned by the Chahar Gulshan only : 10. Rang-durg 13. Him-dnrg 1 8. Naumadar-garh 20. Mitkhiirai 21. Mdkhiirali 43. Susal 44. Barad 46. Saubat-durg 48. Gokalpur 49. Chhilam 50. Lund 53. Khua 74. Suram-sakh 75. Kurnbar-aUil 76. Khadi 77. Ladhdsadha 79. Azimnagar or Malkj'ipur 86. Bilainur 87. Bhus-garh 88. Padishah-pur 93. Khabnl 94. Dhubri 96. Athsli-garh 1 06. Mudgal 109. Haidar-garh. The f611owing forts are mentioned by Tieffenthaler alone : Sahodar-garh Barjit-garh Malcau Jelda Jankari Raouli Ramkha Rahcli Langha Mandak Muki-garh Musseljera Budand-durg Kudiloya Ilakim-kota Ltilgarh Liil-kundi Pendala Islam-garh Shcigarh Mandanbord Dadharsa Dfwar-durg- Rehli Sera Shah clurg Sarndla Rajhur or Firnznagar Kamarnagar or Karniin Kachandar-garh Gadak MaAkl Mdheli Machandar garh Nasratabad-Bangar INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XClli 19. HAIDARABAD. Its boundaries are not given either by C. or by Tieff. Divisions. 17 - i& Sar fears, 129 mahals 1720 ... 12 96 The Sarkars of 1720 with the number of their mahals : i. Devar-konda, 18 m 8. Kulpur 8 2 Warangal 10 9. Rajmahendri 12 3. Rajgopal 8 TO. On the further side 4. Kam-bhim-mandi 5 of the Krishna 19 5. Ibrahimpattan IT On this side of 6. Nixampattan 5 the Krishna 6 7. Muhammadanagar 5 Revenue. The provincial revenue* was in 1697 Rs 5,00,00,000 T^ f 2 >5 a 7>875 (^cc. to Thomas, p 43) I 7OO j > '\ 1 2,73.37,500 (acc. to Dastur, MS D 163.) 1707 2,78.34,000 1720 2,73,20,875 TiefT. 2,77,82.500 (i. 4941 The only places of note that are mentioned by C. arc Haidara- , , . bad and Golkonda. No account is <nvcn of In^jistnes &c. . . the crops, industries, &c, of this province separ- ately. But we incidentally learn from C. that Haidarabad was famous for the handicrafts, which were established there by King Abul Hassan, and that the State derived large revenues from [the tax on] the juice of the date-palm (toddy) and from the diamond mines. The Chahar Gulshan assigns to the province 54 forts and Tieffenthalcr (i. 494) 57 'forts and castles.' The latter arc placed within brackets. The numbers are those borne by the forts in my translation. * The revenues given by Thomas (p. 53) for 1648, 1654, and 1663-66 for the Subah of Haidarabad were really derived from Telingana, before the kingdom of Haidarabad (Golconda) was annexed. Hence, they would-be misleading in our comparative study. XCIV INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ HAIDARABAl> 2. Danur-garh (Devar-garh) ' 3. Muhammadabacl ( same, also called Golkonda) 5. Khtilds (KoUss) 6. Martaza-nagar ( same, also called Kotta) 7. Kaluh-badar (Katiladam) 8. Makha (Messi-rnaka) 9. Kurnal-garh (Gopal-garh) 10 Mustafa-nagar (same) i r. Haidar-nagar (Haidar garh) 13. Ki'ihjiauli (Ghameli) 14. Tubal-kandan (Dan-knndar) 15. Mandakrapur (Mandak) 1 6. Hasab-nasab (Jetpat) 17. Kanji-kup (Kichikossand) 1 8. Jangal-pet (Jangal-bnr) 19. Mdsrur (Mauvar) 22. Sadah-danam (Sidham) 23. Habur(Ranor) 25. Walrruik (Danbao) 28. Tvarudh (Karoda) 29. ]jansi dliar (same) 30. JIarmali (llarndla) 31. Urksla (Ardhakamla) 32. Udrun (Dardn) 34. Khulirah (Khelna) 35. Karab-kali (Ghirbdn-kali) 37. Kumin (G6pi) 38. Ubur (Devar) 39. Pancbla (Bejila) 40. Lundhdi (Lulidni) 41. Korur (Karor) 42. Kalapur (Kalanor) 43. Kuli (same) 45. Abdulla-garh (same, also called Ourdgarh) 46. Bidli-garh (Tili-garh) 47. Sundanvbar (Londam-bar) 49. Kharam-war l dar (Dorod-dar) 50. 53- The i. 4- 12. 20. 21. 24. 26. 27. 33- 36. 44. 48. 5 1 - 52- 54- The Khajla (Jejela) Dharam-rdm (Diraj Ram) following forts are mentioned by the Chahar Gulshan only : Haidarabad Rasdpur Basant-nanam Nanmalgarh Golkonda Arganur Makah-kur Bhu-gaih IMankal 'Absi B Jim in Manja-dnrg Nimi Khim Runi following foils aie mentioned by TiefTenthaler only : Shcwnagar (ihora Kalank(>r Darnokl * Barzapur Kadernak KalcSl Loci am Kalvva Hetbalam Ldgaum Sewar Jamteli Dandoros Alighir-patan Loki-ba-lam Kardad Karan-garh INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XCV 20. BIDAR. Extent.. East of it lay Haidarabad, west Aurangabad, S. W. Gulburga, and north Burhanpur. (C.) The Chahar Gulshan and the Dastur-al-amal agree in giving ~. . . to this province 4 Sarkars and 54 mahals. the Divisions. L f jt > former naming them. Sarkars (1720) Bidar, 8 mahals Kallian 2 Rumgarh I Mandir 43 Area and Revenue. The total area of measured kind in 1720 was 78,72,194 bighas. The provincial revenue was in 1700$ Rs ' ^32,68,558 (ace. to Thomas) \ 1,32,68,568 (ace. to the Dastur, MS, D. 163) 1707 93,24,359 1720 i,SSi3.7SO Tieff. 93,24,374 C. and Tieff. assign to this province the same 5 forts : Bidar ._ (also called Muhammadabad), Ranigir, Firuz- garh) Kalian , and Muzaffarnagar or Balkhi ('Balighir' ace. to Tieff.) Nutmeg and Cardamom grew in abundance in the Deccan. . _ European almond grew in Haidarabad. Plan- Fruits of Deccan. tain grew in plenty, and there were many varieties of -it (see p. 162) Betel-nut, though plentiful, had a very good flavour and high prices were paid for it. The corinda grew well in certain places. It was much relished by the Emperor Aurangzib. (C) This was quite in keeping with the sour temper of the man who "inhibited" music.* Bidar gave its name to a beautiful kind of gold and silver m- Industries of laying on pots In several places of the Deccan, Deccan. cloth was well woven, csp. the gold badla, do- patta, bordered korta> chirah, sarpech, kamar-band, and chhint (C.) * "The minstrels and singers of reputation in the service of the court were XCVI INDIA OF AURANGZIB. CHAPTER V. THE ROADS. The Chahar Gulshan gives the stages of the following 24 roads, of which the first 13 have been traced either fully or in great part. Of the remaining 1 1 roads, a few of the stages have been identi- fied, but they not not enable us to trace accurately the alignment of these highways. In the case of some of the latter class, we encounter the further difficulty of not knowing for certain where the road begins and where it ends and the relative positions of the different stages. Roads mainly traced. * 1. Agra Delhi. S. Delhi Ajmir 2. Delhi Labor. j 9 Delhi Barili Benares Patna. 3. Labor Gnjrat Atak. j 10 Delhi Kol. 4. Atak Kabul. | n. Agra Allahabad. 5. Kabul Ghazni Qandahar. I 12. Bijapur Ujjain. 6. Gnjrat Srinagar. | 13 Sironj Narwar. 7. Labor Mullan. Roads partly traced. 14. Aurangabad Ujjain ? 15. Golkonda Aslr H India. 16. Hindia ? Sironj. 17. Narwar ? Gwalior Dbolpur ? 18. D ho) pur Agra ? 19. Mnltan Bhakkar. 20. Srinagar Atak. 21. Ajmir Abmadabad ? Roads not traced at all. 22, Surkhab Kabul. 23, Qandahar ? Multan. 24. Qandahar ? Atak. , made ashamed of their occupation, and were advanced to the dignities of mansabs. Public proclamations were made prohibiting singing and dancing. It is said that one clay a number of singers and minstrels gathered together with great cries, and having fitted up a bier with a good deal of display, round which were grouped the public wallers, they passed under the Emperor's jharokha-i-darsan or interview-window. When he inquired what was intended by the bier and the show, the minstrels said that Music was dead, and they were carrying his corpse for burial. Aurangzib then directed them to place it deep in the ground? From Khafi Khan. (Elliot, vii, 283.) ROADS] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [The stages are given on the left, one below another ; tho<e that have been identified are printed in Italics, while unidentified and doubtfully trans- literated names are printed in Roman type, the last having a note of interroga- tion after them. When not otherwise stated, the italicized places have been found in the Maps (see ante xxiii.). The distance in mile given after a stagt is its distance from the s/a^e immediately preceding it.j 1. AGKA to DELHI, 80 kos. Sikandra, 5 m. N.W. of Agra Here is the tomb of Akbar. Fara/i-Seral, 13* m N.W. W. of the last stage. Jhandipiir, 3 m N. Ganu-ghdt ? a/>//#r<7 Serai on the Jumna. AT<?//^-Serai, 5 m N of Jhandipur ; it is on the Jumna Naurangabadi not given in the Atlas, but the A. & C. Gazetteer places it 9?> m. from Farah, ic > iJ m. N. of Koila. MA THURA, 6 m. N. of Koila. Akbarpur, 12 m N.W. Chdtd, &pucca Serai, 6 m. N Deotdna, 3 m. N. W. Kosi Serai, 3^ m. N. W. Hodal, 8 m. N. W Banchdri, 3^ m. N. Khataila, 4 m. N, Mitnaul, 2\ m. N. Khera Serai, 2\ m. N. (also named Baminec Khcra) Palwal, 6 m. N. This was the frontier town between the provinces of Delhi and Agra. Baghaula, 4 m. N Pirthala, 2\ m. N, Sikri, 3 m. N. Ballab-garh, 5 m N Faridabad, 5i m. N. Serai of Khawajah Bakhtawar Khan. This man, a favourite eunuch of Shah Jahan, built 2 villages named after himself. (Elliot, vii. 150) Badarpur. Tavernier mentions Badalpura, 8 kos S. of Delhi. INDIA OF AURANGZIB. (ROADS Neither name is found in the Ind. Atlas. But there is a Madan- pur> 8 m. N. of Fandabad. Tank of Raja Kishan Das, 1 1 m from the Turkoman gate of Delhi (A. & C. Gaz). Serai of Mahbat Khdn, Barapula DELHI, 1 6 m. N. of Faridabad as the crow flies'. The following stages are given by Tavernier (Ball's trans, i. 104): Agra Goodki Serai, 6 kos, Shaiki Serai (near Mathura), 5 kos Koti Serai, 16 kos Palwal, 15 kos Badalpura, 18 kos Delhi, 8 kos. Tie ff en thaler mentions the following stages : Agra Sikandra Gaugath, on the further bank of the Jumna, ( = the Ganu-ghat of the Chahar Gulshan ?) Renka, opposite Gaugath, Runkuta, 8 miles from Agra, Chandipur ( =Jhandipur ), 12 m. from Agra Aurangabad, on the Jumna, 3 m. on, Mathura Chaomao, a Serai 6 m. from Mathura Chdta, a fortified Serai, Horel (=Hodul), 12 m, from Chaomao Palwal, 12 m. on Faridabad Delhi (Pp. 206 & 207). The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer (1842) mentions the following stages : Agra .Cantonment) Nnrcutta, 12 m. Furrah, 10 m Muttra ( Cantonment \ 13 m. Jeyt, 10 m. Chattah, 12 m. Horul, 15 m. Baminee Khera, 15 m, Peertal, 13 m. Faridabad, 13 m.-Kisscn Dass ka Talao, 10 m. Delhi (Cantonment), 11 m. 2. DELHI to LAHOE. Badli, 7 m. N. W. of Delhi. Narela, 81 m. N. N. W. Sonepat, nj m. N. W. Ganaur, 9 m. N. Samalkha, 8 m. N, Panipat, ioj m, N. Gharaunda, 10 m, N, ROADS ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. XClX Serai-Pul, evidently a Serai near the bridge (put) over the Western Jumna Canal, in the 6th mile from Gharaunda (A. & C. Gas.). Karnal, 10 m. N. of Gharaunda. Taraori, 9 m. N. N. W. Azimabad, is given in Letts's Atlas in the very locality in which Taraori is given in the Indian Atlas. After it the Nai river is crossed. Thanisar, 13 m. N. N. W. of Taraori. Here the Saraswati river is crossed. Shahabad, 13 m. N. Umballa, 16 m. N. N. W. After it the Ghaggar river is crossed. Serai-Nun. Serai Hajjam. Todar Mai ? Aluwa, 18 m. N. W. of Umballa. Sir hind, 11 m. N. W. KJianna^ \Q\ m. N. W. W. Serai-Lashkar Khan, 20 m. from Sirhind (A. & C. Gas.) Douraha, 25 m. from Sirhind. (A. & C. Gaz.) Ludhtana, 14 N. W. After this the Sutlcj is crossed. 'Phulour, ii m. N N. W. Nur-mahal> 12 m, W. Nakodar, 7 rn. W. Dakhni, 5 m. N. W, (also named Jahangirpur). Here is the old bed of a river (the Bias ?). Sultanpur, 13 m. W. Here the Kalna river is crossed imme- diately west of the town, and the Bias river 6 m, further N. W. at the ferry of Baoo-pur. Fatihabad, 13 m. N. N. W., as the crow flics, lTaurangabad,7lm.'R.W. of Fatihabad and 4| m. S. E. E. of Tarn Taran. *Nuru-d-din-Serai> 8 m. N. W. Serai-Amanat Khan> ii m. N. W. W. C INDIA OF AURANGZIB, [ ROADS Darkah Pul ? Is it a mistake for Kunchnee-ka Pul t 8J m. N. W. of Hosheear Nugur (A. 30), on the high road from Amritsar to Lahor ? Hushiar-N cigar ^ 5 m. N. of Serai Amanat Khan and 21 m. E. of Lahor in a straight line. Shah ganj. LABOR. Tieffenthaler gives the following stages: Delhi Narela, 12 miles Sonepat, 6 m.- Ganor, 6 m Panipat, 12 m. Karnal, 14 m. Azimabad, 7 m. Thaniswar, 9 m.- Shahabad, 12 m. Uinballa, 12 m.- Serai built by Nilkanth, 10 m. Sirhind, 10 m. Machiwara, on the further bank of the Sutlcj, 14 m., [the frontier of the province of the Pan jab] Rahon, 8m. Rajaga, 10 m. -Serai Nuruddin, 10 m. Adinanagar, 15 m. Patiala, 12 m, Kalanor, 12 m. Serai Amanat Khan, on the road to Atak, Shahdara, 15 m. from Kalanor Lahor, 2 m. (Pp. 146 & 113) Or, from Ludhiana to Phulour, 12 m. Nakodar, 12 m. Sultan- pur, 12 m. The Bias, 7 m. Govindwdl, 5 m, -Serai Amanat Khan, 13 m. Lahor, 12 m. ^^ Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer (1842) gives the following route: Delhi near Alipur, 10 m. Barotah, 10 m. Burki Choki, 13 m. Somalkha, u m. Panipat, 12 m. Garaunda, 10 m. Karnal, 12 m. Lilakhcri, 10 m. Thanisar, 13 m. Shahabad, 14 m. Kotkuchua, 8 m. Umballa, 9 m. Rajpura, 13 m. Pattarsi, 8 m. Sirhind, 9 m. Kunha ka Serai, 11 m. Douraha ka Serai, 14 m. Ludhiana, 14 m. Phulour, 7 m Noor Mahal, 14 m.Kalke, 15 m. Kapurthala, roj- m. Birawal, 14! m. Joondiala, 13^ m. Amritsar, 12 m. Bania- ka-Dera, 15 m. Shalimar, 15 m. Lahor City, 51 m. 3. LAHOR to ATTOCK. Shahdara^ 3 m. N. of Lahor fort, on the other side of the Ravi. Fazilabad, not found in the Maps, but Tieff. places it 12 m. N. of Lahor, where the Indian Atlas gives a "Pucka Surai in ruins." ROADS] INDIA OF AURANGZIU. d Judhir-pul ? Probably ''Pool Shah Dowla" on the Degh river, 22 m. N. of Lahor (A. 30). Eminabad, io m. N. N. W of ''Pool Shah Dowla," and 9 m. S. of Gujranwala. Hakimabadpur. Ghukkar Cheemah, xol m. N. of Gujranwala. Wazirabad, 10 m N. After this the Chcnab is crossed. Gujrat, 9 m. N. Khwaspur, u m. N. N. W. of Gujrat and 6 m S W. W. of Daulatnagar. After this the Bhimbcr river is crossed . Kinari. Probably Kharian, a pass 12 in. N. W of the last stage. Khariala,) 3?, m. N. W. of Kharian Serai Alamgir, 3 m N. W. The Jhilum river is ii m. N. W of it. S'aid Khdn! Naurangabad, given in the Indian Atlas (Sheet 29) as adjoining Serai Alamgir. Chokuha There is a Chakoa, 9 m N. W. of Rohtas fort (A. 29). Khurda JalAl. Tieff. mentions a Serai i-Jalal Khan, 20 m. N. W. of Rohtas. Mahsa ? Paka ? Tieff. mentions a Paka, 10 m. N. W. of Serai i-Jalal Khan. Rowat, \\\ m, S. E. of Rawal Pindi. Laskari ? Rawal Pindi. Hazira ? Tieff. mentions a Khurja, 5 m. N. W. of Rawal Pindi. Kalapani. Kala-ka-Serai, 17 m. N. W. of Rawal Pindi, as the crow flies. Hassan Abdal, 9 m. N. W. Madrota, 19 m. N. W. W. ATAK, J\ m. W., on the eastern bank of the Indus. Tavernier ({.91) gives, the following stages: Wazirabad Kariald or Sarai-i-Alamgir, 16 kos Tulpuri, 19 kos Rawat, 16 kos Kalapani, 16 kos Atak, 16 kos. Cll INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ ROADS Tieffenthaler gives the following routes : Labor. Shahdara, 2 m. Shah Daulatpur (? Shah Daula Pul) 12 m. Eminabad, 12 m. Wazirabad, 12 m. Lahor. Firuzabad, 6 m. Pool-i-Shah Daula, 6 m. Eminabad, 6 m. Ciitcha Serai, 6 m. Ghakkar Chi ma, 6 m. Wazirabad, 6 m. (P. H4) Lahor. Elchi Serai, 4 m. Fazilabad, 8 m. Pool-i-Shah Daula, 6 m. Eminabad, 6 m. Ghakkar Chirria,! 2m, Wazirabad, 12 m. (P. 86) Then, Wazirabad -Gujrat 5 m. Khawaspur, 8 m The Jhilum, 8m. Rohtas, 5 m Chokuha, 10 m. Scrai-i-Jalal Khdn, 10 m. Paka, 10 m Rawat, 10 m Rawal Pindi, 7 m. Kurja, 5 m. Kalapatii, 5 m. Hassan Abdal, 5 m, Dingaron Serai, 6 m. -Mandrota, 5 m.--Atak, 5 m. The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer (1842) gives the route detailed below; Nowrangabad Serai Jhilum city, 2 m. Rohtas, ii| m. Udurana, S\ m. Bukrala, 8 m. Tumako, near Dhumak, 9* m. Pucca Serai on the right bank of the Kassi Nadi, 14 m. Manikyala, \2\ m. Hoormak, gl m. (after crossing the Sohan river) Rawai Pindi, 2 m. (after crossing the Kali Nadi) Jani-ka-Sang, 13^ m Vab, 14 m. Burhan, 8 m. Shamsabad, 13 m. Atak, 10 m 4. AT TOOK to KABUL. Khairabad, on the western bank of the Indus, opposite Attock. Qasdri ? Evidently a mistake for Niri, 4?r m. N. of Khairabad. Akora, 10 m. N. W. of Khairabad, as the crow flies. Sindh ? Probably a mistake for Nowshera, 9 m. W, of Akora. Khan-khanan. Peshawar, 22 m.'W. of Nowshera. Jumrood, lit m. W. This fort is only 3|- m. east of the mouth of the Khyber Pass. Dah-ghuldman ? ROADS] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. CUl Alt Masjid) 10 in. W. of Jumrood. Landikhana^ I2| m. N. W. Dhaka, 7i m N. N W. ; on the southern bank of the Kabul river, at the western mouth of the Khyber Pass. Surkh diwar. The A. & C Gaz. mentions the ruins of this place, between Bareekab(9| m. S. E. of AH Boghan) and AH Baghan. Ali-Boghan, 31 m. N. W. W. of Dhaka. Jalalabad)*]\ m. N. W. W., on the southern bank of the Kabul river, or 'the stream (nahar) of Surkh-&b' according to the Chahar Gulshan. The Surkh river falls into the Kabul, a few miles west of Jalalabad. Jdi? Charbagh-khurd ; there is a Balabagh, \2\ m. S, W. W, of Jalalabad. Chdrbagh-kahin Serai Chilla ? Gandamak, 29 m. S. W. of Jalalabad. Malik AH Jagdalak, 17 m N. W. of Gandamak. Birang-badehcit ? Sar-dahana. Not given in the Maps. Tieff, places it (Shcr-Dahan) 5 m. from Jagdalak. Tazin, 5 m. E. of Qahar Jabbar Qahar Jabbar, 16 m. S. W. of Jagdalak. Khurd Kabul, 6 m W But-khak, 10 m. N. Bagrami, 5! m. W. KABUL Fort, 6 m W. Taverniei\i 91) give-* the following stages : Atak Nowshera, 19 kos Peshawar, 14 kos Khairbari ?, 14 kos Dakka, 6 kos AH Baghan, T7 kos Nimla-bagh, 19 kos Barikab, 17 kos Kabul, 19 kos Tieff enthaler (p 72) lays down the following route : Atak Khairabad N^ri, 3 m. Akdra, 4 m , Girdab, 4 m. Nausheta^ Civ INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ROADS 4 m. Shahabad, 8 m. Juigiisar, 4 m Peshawar, 3 m. Jamrud, 7m. Ali Masjid, 8 m Landikhana, 8 m. HaftChah, 8m. Dagd, 5 m. Barikdb, 6 m. Jalalabad, 10 m. Fatihabad, 6 m. Nimboul, 6 m Gandamak 6 m. The Surkh-ab, 6 m. Jagdalak, 6 m. Sher-dahan, 5 m. Tazi, 8 m. Khurd Kabul, 5m Budakak ; 5 m Kotalieklang 4 m. Kabul, 3 m The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer mentions the following stages : Attock Khyrabad, 2 m -Akora, 10 m. Nowshera, 10 m. Pubbee, 9 m. Peshawar, 12 m. Howulsur, 8i m. Near Kadam, 6\ m. Ali Masjid, n m. Landikhana, 13 m Dhaka, 8J m. Hazarinow, 8J m. Char Debr, u^ m. Ali Boghan, 14 m. Jalalabad, 6\ m. Sultanpur, 8J m. Fatihabad, 7| m. Siffaud Sung near Gandamak, ni m.- Surkhab, gl m. Jagdalak, 13 m. Kutta Sung, 7 m. Baba Esaw, Near Tazeen, 31 m. Khurd Kabul, \2\ m. Boothak, 9 m. Kabul, Si m. 5. KABUL to QANDAHAR. Sufid-sang Char-asia, o m. S. of Kabul. Laghmdn ? Deh-nau. Danbara ? Bakhsawand ? Hajt-asia. SJiash-gaon, 3 m. S. Sher-i-dana^ 3 m. S. - y a mountain pas?. Mausoleum of Sultan Mahmud, marked Rosa in the IVTap, a little north of Ghazni. G/iazniFort, u m. S. of Shcr-i-dana. Dera Nani, 12 m. S. KarslWgh or Fardbdgh ? Barik-diwdr ? Here was the frontier of Qandahar. ShastaL Ab-i tazi } 5 rn. S. &OADS ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. W Sar-i-asp, 16 m, S. W. Kalat GJiilzai, 10 m. S. W. Qandahar is 75 m. S. W. of it. The stages of the last 75 miles of this road are not given. Tavernier (i. 91) gives the following stages : Kabul Shiganu ( ? = Shashgaon), 40 kos Karabagh, 17 kos -Masur, 17 kos Ab-i-Tazi, 6 kos Kalat-i-Ghilzai, 8 0.? Shahar-i-Safa, 12 kos Qandahar, 10 kos. Tieffenthaler and the A . & C. Gazetteer do not describe this road. 6. LAHOE to KASHMIR. From Lahor to Gujrat, as in 3. From Gujrat : Daulatnagar, 12 m. N. of Gujrat Bhimbar, 16 m, N., on the western bank of the Bhimbar river. Chauki Hati, not given in the Atlas, but TiefT. places it 4 royal miles (ie., 7 ordinary miles) N. of Bhimbar and speaks of its having a cave with 2 elephants carved on the rock. Notvshera, 16 m. N. of Bhimbar, on the western bank of the Tawi river. Changiz-Hati, TiefT places it 4?, m. N. of Nowshera, but the Indian Atlas gives Chingas Serai %\ m. N. N. E. of Nowshera. Inayetpur, probably Moradpur^ 7 m N.E of Chingas Serai (A. 1^9) Rajaor^ 16 m. N. N. E. of Nowshera. Thana, Thanna Bazar, 12 m. N. (A. 29). Barantgula, 5m N, N. E. There is a waterfall here. Poshana. 2 m. from Baramgula. ace. to TiefT. Serai- AH Mardin Khan, or Serai-Muhammad Kuli, 3j m. onward, ace. to TiefT. S'aid Hala ? or Serai Sokhta, ace. to TiefT. Hirpur, 10 m. N. of Poshana (Tieff) Shddimarg, or Shajamarg, 6 m. from Hirpur, ace. to Tieff. Khanpur, 18 m. N. N. E. of Hirpur (Tieff; an d 1 1 m. S. of Srinagar (Stein's Map). Srinagar, n m. N m CVl INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ Another road goes from Rajaor to Kashmir : Rajaor Saifabad. Poonch, 42 in. N. N. W. of Rajaor, as the crow flies. Aliabad, Walker's Atlas has Shookrabad, between Poonch and Oori. Oori, a well-known gorge, 17 m. N. of Poonch. Bhamiar, 8J m. N. E. E. Bdramula, 10 m. E Srinagar is 30 m. E. of it, as the crow flies. Tieffenthaler, (P. 87) gives the following route : Wazirabad Gujrat, 5 m Daulatnagar, 8 m Kathra (a fort built by Issatiar Khan) 5 m.Bhimbar, 5 m Sahatabad, 12 m Nowshera, 10 m. Serai-i-Zangiz, 10 m.- Rajawar, 10 m. Thana, 10 m. Baram- gula, 7 m. Poshana, 6 m. Serai Aliabad Serai Sokhta Hira- pur, 10 m. from Poshana Shajamarg Serai, 6 m. Khanpur 6 m. Kashmir (ie , Srinagar) 6 m. He quotes the following route from The History of Shah-Jahan (probably the work of Abdul Hamid Lahori or that of Muhammad Salih Kambu) : Bhirnbar Chauki Hati, 4 royal miles ( = 7 or- dinary miles)- Nowshera, 3i m. Changiz Hati, 4| m. Rajawar, 5 m. Thana, 4^ m.Baramgula, si m. Poshana, 2 m. Serai i- Muhammad Kuli, 3! m. Serai Sokhta (a pucca Serai), 3i m. Hirapur, 3! m. Shajamarg 4 m, Khanpur, 3 m.- Srinagar, 5 m. (P, 88). Tieffenthaler (P. 89) speaks of the following route as generally followed by merchants : From Nazibgarh, (a fort built by the Afghan Nazib) -Alamnagar Dharampur Shahranpur Tajpur Gular Nahn (at this place the road enters into the mountains) Bilaspur Jala Zoali Haripur Makrota Bissuli Badroa Kishtawar Srinagar. 7. LABOR to MULTAN. Abul Hassan. Aurangabad. fcOADS] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Nowshahra, 42 m. S. W. of Labor. Mopalkee, 13^ m. S. W. Satghara> 14 m. S. Kamal, Khan Kumalwala, ip| m. S. W. W ; or it may be Kot Kumalyuk, 3O'43'3O N. 72*43 E. (A. 17). Chauki Fatu, probably Jhook, \\\ m. N. E. of Harappa. Harappa, 30*38 N. 72 56 E. Chichawatni, nj m. S. W. W. Ali Sahwa, probably Sahwa Gureeb, 6 m. W. Talumba, 21 m. W. Sard, 19 m. W. in Walker's Atlas ; not given in the Indian Atlas, in which it ought to be N. of Serrate Siddhoo. Khalid, not found. Walker gives a Kulalpur, 8 m. N. W. of Sird. Mardanpur, probably Mundalpoor, 14 m. S. S. W. of Kulalpur, and 36 m N. E. of Multan (Walker, Sheet xii.). The stages of the remaining 36 miles are not given in the Chahar Gulshan. Tieffenthaler (P. 119) gives the following stages : Lahor Katpur Guzar Serai Noshahra - Satghara Harpan (Harappa) Maktunpur Kanpur Multan ; the total distance is 120 or 160 miles. 8. DELHI to AJMIR. Serai Alawardi, 16 m. S. W. of Delhi, and r m. N. of the Gurgaon Railway Station. Pataudi, 19^ m. S. W. Rewari, 13 m. S W. Kot, 44 m. S, S. W, Putli, i m. S. W. BardurAyAn ? Chuksar, probably Jubner, 13! m. N.N.E. of Sambhar (A. 33 S E ) Sdmbhar, a city on the S. E. bank of the Sambhar lake. Miiranda, probably Momana, loj m S. W of Sambhar city. Sarsard, probably Horamara, ni m. S. W.,of Momana, and 24 m N. E. of Ajmir. cvi?i INDIA OF AURANGZIB, ROADS 21. AJMIR to AHMADABAD. (120 kos, ace. to the Chahar Gulshan.) Jhalor, 147 m. S, W. of Ajmir, as the crow flies. Jhalor was the frontier town between the provinces of Ajmir and Gujrat. The other stages are not given in the Chahar Gulshan. In Akbar's time the under-mentioned routes were followed (Elliot, v.) : Nagor. Ajmir Ajmir. Mirath, Mirtha. Jitaram. Sojhat. I PAH Bhagwanpur. Sirohi. Jhalor. Jhalor. Pattan Nahrwala, Haibatpur. j Pattanwdl. Disa fort. Ahmadabad. Ahmadabad. | Ahmadabad. We also learn from the Tabqat-i-A kbari that from Bhagwanpur the road by Sirohi was shorter than the road by Jhalor. (Elliot, v. 362). 7 ieffenthaler (P. 332) lays down the following route : Gujrat (f>, Ahmadabad)- Pethapur, 12 m.~ Mesdna, 12 m.-Sitapur, 20 m. Palhanpur, 6 m. BilmAl, 20 m. Jhalor, 20 m 9. DELHI to MOEADABAD and BENARES to PATNA Delhi. Cross the Jumna. Shahdata, 3 m. E. Serai Basant ? Ghaziu-d-din-nagar (ace to Letts's Atlas] or Ghaziabad (ace. to the Indian Atlas], 8 m. E. of Shahdara. In coming to this town the Hindun river has to be crossed. Dasna % 6 m. E. KAlan deh-ni ? Hap&r, 1 6 m. N. E. E. of Dasna. After this place, the Kali river is crossed* ROADS] INDIA OF AURANOZIB. CIX Bagsar, also called Gangadharpur, 13^ m. N. E. E. of Hapur. Rath-Sahi ? Abridge of Bdbd Dargahi, a follower of Guru Nanak" (Ch Gulshan). Garh-Muktesar, 6i m. E. of Bagsar, on the western bank of s the Ganges. Bagri, 13 m. N. E E. \ Amroha, loi m. N. E. E. Moradabad, i8J m. E. on the western bank of the Ramganga, and 46 m N. W. of Barili. From this point we lose all trace of the road, as given in the Chahar Gulshan, and have to pick it up at Rai Barili which is 234 m, S. S. E. in a straight line. Rai Barili, on the eastern bank of the Sai river, 49 m, S. E, E. of Cawnpur and 79 m. N. N. E. of Allahabad. Selon, 21 m. S. Kharah ? probably Kurrah, on the western bank of the Ganges, 26 m. S. of Selon, Dia M4i ? Kurrah is only 3 m. N. of the Agra- Allahabad road, and Diarodi was probably the point in this road at which it was joined by the road from Rai Barili. From Diamdi we lose all trace of the latter road, but at Benares we pick it up again. Benares. Serai Said Rdzi Ghazipur^ 39 m. N. E. of Benares ; on the left bank of the Ganges. Bnxar> 2401 E., on the right bank of the Ganges, which river is crossed at Chausa, 7 m S. of Buxar Ranisagar 25 m. N. E E. of Buxar, and 20 m. W. of Arrah. Bisambhar. There is a Bisutnkurpur, ioi m. N. N. E. of Arrah and a little west of the place where the Son falls into the Ganges. Patna. Tavernier (i. 1 1 8) went from Benares to Patna by the following CX INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ROADS route : Benares Bahadurpur, 2 kos Sadrdza-ki-Serai, 8 kos Mohanid-ki> Serai, 6 kos Khurmdbad, on the Koodra river, 8 kos Sasseram, 4 kos Daudnagar, 9 kos Arwal, on the Son, 10 kos Aga Serai, 9 kos -Patna, 10 kos. The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer gives the following stages: Benares Chobepur, 12 m. Syedpur, u m. Nandganj, i2j m. Ghazipur, 10 m. Muhammadabad, 14 m. Near Kuruntadee, 13 m. Near Buxar, 2\ m. Chota Bhojpur, 10 m. Rani Sagar, 13 m. Gajrajganj, 12^ m. Arrah, 8i m Kuttesur, 11 m, Dinapur, 14^ m. Patna, TT m 10. DELHI to KOIL Delhi ; here cross the Jumna. Patparganj, 3^ m. S. E. of Delhi, on the eastern bank of the Jumna. Chalera, 5 m, S. E E. Pucca Serai of BhageL 3^ m. E. of Chalera. After this cross the Hindun river. Begampur^ 5^ m. S. E. of Bhagel. Serai Khdsi. There is a Kasna, 6 m S. E of Begampur. Sikandrabad, 15 m S E. E of Begampur. Khurja y 16 m. S. Well of Sitaram. Chandaus, \\\ m. S. of Khurja Koil, 18 m. S. E. of Chandaus, and 2 m. S, of Aligarh. Harduaganji 6 m. E. The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer gives the following stages : Delhi (Cantonment) Patparganj, 8 m Surajpur, 14^ m. Sekandra, 14 m. Choolah, 10 m. Khurja, 7 m - Somnathganj, 14 m. Aligarh 15^ m. Koil, 2 m. 11. AaRA-ALLAHABAD-BENARES. Tomb of Wazir KMn. Firvxabad, 24 m. E. of Agra, as the crow flies. ROADS] INDIA OF AURANG2IB. orf Shikohabad, n m. S. E E. Etawah, 34 \ m. S. E. Rdjpur, $2 m. S. E., and 13 m. N. N. W. of Kalpi. Koorarah, 29 m. S. E. of Rajpur, and 18 m. S. E. E. of Kalpi. Hutgaon, 90 m, S. E. of Kalpi, and 52 m. N. W of Allahabad. Shahzadpur, 32 m, N. W. of Allahabad., on the southern bank of the Ganges. Fatihabad, probably Fatihpur, 9 m. N. W. of Allahabad. Allahabad. The following stages are evidently on the road from Allahabad to Benares, though the Chahar Gulshan does not explicitly say so : Bans Barili. Hanuman nagari. There is a Hanumangavj 10 m, E. of Allahabad. Shah-Jahanpur. Sandha^ 27 m. W. of Benares. Mulld Ltisad-wali ? Probably Mirza Murad, 14 m. W. of Benares. Here the Chahar Gulshan abruptly stops, without giving the remaining stages to Benares. Tavernier(\. 113) travelled by the following route : AGRA Firuzabad, 9 kos Serai Murlidas, 9 kos Etawah, 14 kos A jit Mai. 12 kos Sikandara, 13 kos Sankal, near Musa- nagar, 14 kos Shenirabad, 12 kos Serai Shahzada, 10 kos Hutgaon, 13 kos Aurangabad, 9 kos Alumchand, 9 kos Alla- habad, 8 kos Sadul Serai ^Sydabad ?), 16 kos Jagadis Serai, IO kos Baboo Serai, TO kos-- BENARES, 10 kos. Tieffenthaler (P. 240), lays down the following route : Allaha- bad Handia, 12 m. Gopiganj, 9 m. Mirza Morad, 10 m Benares, 8 m. The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer gives the following stages ; AGRA (cross the Jumna) Etimadpur, 14 m Firuzabad, 13^ m. Shekohabad, 12\ m. Murlidhar-ka-Serai ; 8 m. Jaswant-nagar, I4j m. Etawah, 9^ m. Bukiwar, 14 m. Ajitmal, 11 m. INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ROADS Ooria, 14 m Sikandra, loj m Shah Jahanpur, 10 m. Boghni, 7 m. Musanagar, loj m. Ghatampur, 12 m. Jahanabad, IOJ m. Kajwa, 13 m. Khuapur, io| m. Fatihpur, 10 m. Munda-ke- Serai, 13 m. Chauki-ke-Serai, 13! m Daranagar, near Karrah, 14^ m.Kusia, loi m.- Mufti-ka-Purwa, 15^ m. ALLAHABAD, 13 \ m Jhoosee, 4^ m. Sydabad, 13^ m. Ooj-ke-Chauki, 13^ m. Gtisiet, 13^ m. Tamashabad, ioi m Mohun ke-Serai, n| m. BENARES, 7 m. 12. BIJAPUR to UJJAIN. Bijapur Fort. Bijapur City. Kanwaldpur. Not found in Letts ; it may be a mistake for Sholapur, which is 60 m. N. of Bijapur. Nandgaon. There is a Ntmbgaon 18-5 N. 74-58 30 E, about 100 m N. N W. of Bijapur Chambliargoonda, 38 in. N. N W. of Nimbgaon, and 33 m S, of Ahmadnagar. Izdabad, probably Kalarabad or Mandavgdon, 17 m. N. N. W. of Chambhargoonda Ahmadnagar fort, 19 m, N. of Mandavgaon. Bihisht-bagh, a garden north of Ahmadnagar. After this the Pain-Ganga river is crossed. From this stage we lose sight of the road and have to take it up again, 140 m. north, at Bhikhangaon. Durjanpur. Three villages in succession (not named). Cutcha Serai. Bhikhangaon. 21 49 N. 76 i E. ; 39 m. N. N. W. of Burhanpur. Gogdon> 14 m, W. Mnlthan t 7 m. N. Serai Mdlchand, probably Balkhar. Akbarpur^ an important ferry over the Narbada, 25 m. N. W. of Gogaon, and 12^ m. W. of Mandlesar, ROADS ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB. Jahangir-nagar. Nunhara. There is a Liinhera, 2\ m. west of Akbarpur, on the opposite bank of the Narbada. Elliot refers to it (vii. 1 8) as Lonihara Dikthan, 30 m. N. of Akbarpur. Dipalpur, 19 m. N. Fatikabad or Jharolia, 14! m. N. N. E, across the Gamhir river. Garden of Aurangzib. Darband or the Gate of Ujjain ? Ujjain, i2i m, N. E of Fatihabad. 14. AURANGABAD to UJJAIN ? Aurangabad. Pulmari, 14 m N. Pathri. Alund, 13 m. N. E, of Pulmari. Serai Kamun. Sailur, 8 m. N, E, of Alund. Golagaon. Fardcipur. Elliot speaks of it as a pass midway between Auranga- bad and Burhanpur (vii. 498), or about 32 kos from Aurangabad (vii. 307), which would be near Ajurita. Pass of Fardapur. Serai-i-Hatam Beg. Bikhari ? Idulabad, 37 m. N. N. E. of Ajunta, and 5 m. p:. of the junction of the Purna and the Tapti. From this point to Ujjain, 150 m N., we lose sight of the road. Antn. Bahari ? Ujjain City. Firozpur village. Serai-i- Sultan Mahmud. n CXIV INDIA OF AURANG2IB, [ ROADS 15. (JOLKONDA-ASIR-HINDIA. Golkonda. Bidar, 67 m. N. W. Qandahar, 68 m. N. Ellichpur, i66m. N. N. E. Takht-bahz;id ? Asir, 77 m. W. of Ellichpur ; the Tapti is crossed 10 m. E. of it. River Mdndhdr ? Serai Mdndhdr ? Minduh. This cannot be the Mandu of Malwa. Daudnagar Serai-Bir ? New Serai Serai Serai-Bhrangana ? Serai Chinpur, 36 m. N. E. of Asir. Serai-Nim Charwa. 18 m, N. N. E of Chinpur. Serai-Beli ? Serai-Bijhula. Tavernier calls it Bichola and places it 4 kos S. of Hindia. Hindia, 27 m. N. of Charwa, on the right bank of the Narbada. Tavernier followed the route given below : Burhanpur Piombi Serai, 5 kos Pander (Mandwa), 3 w -Balki Serai Bal- wara), 6 kos Nawel-ki-Serai, 5 kos Kusemba, 5 kos Chainpur, 3 kos Charwa, 8 kos Bichola, 8 kos Hindia, 4 kos. The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer gives the following stages between Asir and Charwa: Asir Borgaon, 13^ m Khirgaon, 9 m Bamgarh, 8 m. Gangapat (river), 11 m. Gorapachhar (river), nj m Charwa, 12 m. 16. HINDIA ? to SIEONJ. Serai-Ntirbari, Probably Newardi^ 22 i m. N. of Hindia. (A. 53 S. W.) KOADS ] INDIA OF AUKANGZIB, CXV Ichhawar, 37 m. N. of Hindia. Sihor> 13 m. N. Serai-Nimak. Duraha, 15 m. N. of Sihor. * Bhatk khira Serai, 30 m. N. E. It is an obscure village away from the modern roads as given in the Indian Atlas, Tavcrnier names it Hatiakhera Cutcha Serai. Nla Bhua ndla. The river Baha has to be crossed midway be- tween Bhatkera and Barda Serai of Bar6da village. There is a Barda, 15 m. N. of Bhatkera (A. 52. S. E ) A village named Baroda is SJ m. W. of Barda, Serai Basant-baria ? Serai Kdnkar ? Probably Gangakheri^ 14 m. N. of Barda, and 5 m. S. S. W. of Sironj. Serai Niudria ? j) 19 m. N. of Barda, on the E. bank of the Kethan river. Tavernier gives the following stages : Hindia Onquenas ? 4 kos Tiqueri ? 5 /#.$ Tool meden ? 4 kos Nova Serai, 4 kos fchiwar, 4 kos Sihor, 5 kos Shaikhpura, 3 kos Duraha, 3 kos Hatiakheia 3 kos Dilod, 4 kos San Khaira ? 3 kos Sironj, 12 kos. 13. SIRONJ to NAEWAR. Stone Serai. Mogul Serai, 14 m. N. of Sironj. Afghan-Serai. Kachner Serai, 9 m. N. of Mogul Serai. Shahdaura, 13 m. N. Serai of Madh-kathi village ? Kaldbagh village, 16 m. N. of Shahdaura. Serai Abul Hassan. Tiimddu-nagar ? Tieffenthaler calls it Buradii-nagar, and places it 6 m. S. of Kailarasand 8 m. N. of Nai Serai. At that place CXV1 INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ROADS the Indian Atlas gives Budadanga, 13! m. N. of Kalabagh, Rajhula village. Serai S'aid. Probably a mistake for c Serai-i-Sind,' some Serai near a ferry of the Sincl river. Serai Badridas. Evidently a mistake for Kailaras, (io m. N, of Budadanga), which was a stage in the routes of Tavernier and Tieffenthaler alike. The latter mentions a place with a similar name, Badarwas, "a village, being the frontier of the district \Sarkar\ of Narwar, on the road from Narwar to Sironj " (P. 179) Badarwas is situated 8 m. N. N. W. of Kalabag. (A. 52. N. E.) . Sawari village. Evidently a mistake for Sipri, 15 m. N of Kailaras. Tieffenthaler calls it Sheopur, but Tavernier names it correctly. Dongri,%m N.E.ofSipri. Midway between it and the next stage the Sind river is crossed. Narwar C\ty, 14 m. N. E. It is situated S. E. of a bend of the Sind river. Tavernier travelled by the following route : Sironj Mughal Serai, 6 kos Paulki Serai ? 2 kos Kachner, 3 kos Shahdaura, 6 kos Kalabagh, 6 kos Akmati? 2 kos Kailaras, 9 kos Sipri, 6 kos Dongri, 4 kos Ghat [i.e., ferry over the Sindh river], 3 kos Narwar, 4 kos. Tieffenthaler (P. 349) gives the following stages : Sironj Mughal Serai, 6 m Shahdaura, 11 m. Nai Serai, 7 m. Buradunagar, 8 m Kailaras, 6m Sheopur, 6 m. Narwar, 12 m. 17. NARWAR-GWALIOR-DHOLPUR ? Malancha Serai ? Nun River Nun Village ? Nun Serai, 12 m, S. S. W. of Antri, on the N. bank of the Noon river. Serai-i-Sardar Khan, Probably Barki Serai } 5* m. S. of Antri. ROADS ] INDIA OF AURANGZIB, CXVli Cutcha Serai. Antri^ 10 m. S. of Gwalior. Serai Sarmast ? Serai-i-Gajpati in the city [of Gwalior] ? Gwalior is 40^ m. N. N. E. of Narwar in a straight line. Serai-i-Khan daurn. Serai-i-Awad Sing. Serai-i-Mihr AH. Serai Sang ? Garden of Khan Jahan River Sankh. This river is crossed by the modern road 14^ m. N. N. W. of Gwalior fort. Serai Kanwari. Evidently the place where the Kumari river was crossed, 10); m. N. of the ferry over the Sankh river, which forms the preceding stage. Dliolpiir, 36! m. N. N. W. of Gwalior in a straight line ; 1 1 m. N. N, W. of the ferry over the Kumari river. The Chambal has to be crossed 2 m. before reaching the modern town of Dholpur ; the old fort of Dholpur, however, stood on the bank of the Chambal close to the ferry, which was formerly guarded as an approach to Agra. Tavernier travelled by the following route : Narwar Barki Serai, 9 kos Antri, 3 kos Gwalior, 6 kos 'The Sank river, 5 kos Kuari Serai (on the Kuari river), 8 kos Dholpur, 6 kos. The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer lays down the following route : Antri Jinsee, 12111. Gwalior Residency, 6i m Dimaila, Iim. Hingona, 12 m Dholpur, 13! m 18. DHOLPUR- AGRA? Dholpur, after crossing the Chambal from the south This town is 50 m. S. of Agra. Serai Sadiq. There is a Sadiqpur, 7 m. N N. E. of Dholpur. Fatihabad CXVili INDIA OF AURANGZIB. [ ROADS Serai Begam Serai Shaikh Serai Than ? Serai Abu Said Hassan Jamal-nagar Serai-Sambhci ? Ser&i-Sikandra, evidently Sikandarpur, 11 m. S. of Agra. Serai Sara Kakuba, y\ m. S of Agra, and 4 m N. of Sikandarpur. Serai Mulukchand ? Tavernier gives the following stages : Dholpur Mania Serai, 6 kos Jajou-ka-Pul, 8 /w Agra, 4 kos The Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer lays down the following route : Dholpur Munia, 9 m (after crossing the Banganga or Utangan), Jhajhur, 8i m -Tehara, 5 m Agra, 12 m Tavernier travelled from Surat to Burhanpur by the following route : Surat Bardoli (Panoli), 14 kos Bailor, 10 kos Kerkoa (Begam Serai), 5 kos Nawapur, 15 kos Nandurbar, 9 kos Dol- medan, 14 kos Sind-khair, 7 kos Talnir, 10 /'^Chopra, 15 kos Sankh, 13 kos Nabir ? 10 kos Balleda, 9 kos Burhanpur, 5 kos. Tie ffent hater's route from Qandahar to Multan is reproduced below, as the road given by the Chahar Gidshan is hopelessly illegible and confused : Qandahar Koshaz, 41 m Mastani, 46 m. Ouchen, 28 m. The Sindh river, 31 m. Multan, 14 m 'The road is 160 royal miles or 300 ordinary miles in length." (P. 75 ) KHULASATU-T-TAWARIKH. [The figures within square brackets indicate the leares of the Bengal Asiatic Society's Persian manuscript D 153, while a or b stands for the front or back page of each leaf.] I. DELHI. The Metropolitan Province of Shah-Jahanabad. [17, b.] We learn from many Indian and Persian histories that in ancient times the capital of the rulers of Hindustan was the city of Hastinapur, on the bank of the river Ganges. The spaciousness and extent of this town is spoken of as having been very great in that age. Though it is still inhabited, yet it has not so large a population at present. When, in the days of the Pandu and Kuru kings, a quarrel broke out between the two parties, the Pandus migrated from the city of Hastina- pur to that of Indrapath,* on the bank of the river Jumna, and made it their capital. After a long period, in the year 440 of Vikramajit (383 A.D.), Raja Anangpal Tomarf founded the city of DELHI near Indrapath. After that, Rai Pithora,* in the year 1200 and odd of Vikramajit, built a fort and town after his own name. Sultan Qutbu-d-din Aibak and Sultan Shamsu-d-din Altamsh lived in the fort of Rai Pithora. Sultan Ghiasu-d-din Balban, having built * Sanskrit Indraprastha. + A text reads Toniuar. The Ain (ii. 300) gives the daie as 429 Samvat (372 A.D.) and the name as Tonwar. Tod spells the name Tuar, and assigns 848 Samvat (729 A.D.) as the date. (Rajasthan^ I. 92). For Anangpal, see Elliot, iii. 565 and Ain. ii. 212. J Prithvi-raja, the Chohan king, who died in 588 A. H, (1192 A.D.) which is the year 1249 of the Vikram era* Old capi and pala near Del (i)Hasti pur (2) (3) Rai P thora KHULASAT: DELHI. 4) (5) (6) (7) (8) Tughla qabad (9) (10) Firuza bad (ii (12) Din panah another fort in 666 A. H. (1267-68 A.D.), named it Sar- ran.* Sultan Muizzu-d-din Kaikubad, having in the year 686 A. H. (1287 A. D.) founded on the bank of the river Jumna another city with charming buildings, named it Kilugarhi ; f Amir Khusrau has celebrated { it in his book, the Qiranu-s-Saadain. Sultan Jalalu-d-din Khilji having founded the city of Kushk-lal^ [18a*] and Sultan Alau-d-din the city of Ku shit- S air i>\\ made them capitals. Sultan Ghiasu-d-din Tughlaq Shah founded the city of Tughlaqabad in 725 A. H. (1325 A. D.) Sultan Muhammad Fakhru-d-din Jauna, his son, having founded another city, built a lofty palace with one thousand pillars ; and other charming houses of red stone were also constructed. Sultan Firuz Shah having in 755 A.H. (1354 A. D.) built a large town, Firuzabad, cut [a canal and made] the river Jumna come near. f Three kos from Firuzabad is another palace containing a world-gazing tower, which still stands on a hillock; the people call it the Lath (Pillar) of Firuz Shah. Sultan Mubarak- Shah founded Mubarakabad. The Emperor Nasiru-d-din Muhammad Humayun having in 938 A. H. f (1531 A. D.) [re-] built and decorated Indrapath, made it his capital under the name of Dinpanah. Sher Shah Afghan, having demo- * So reads the A-text. Elliot has Shahr-Zaghan (the City Kite), t In the A-text the word may also be read as Kitlu-garki. I have followed Elliot (in 126.) The Am (ii. 279) has Kelu- Khati. I See Elliot iii. 1525. 'The Ruby Palace', or 'the Red Palace 1 . || 'The Palace of Satiety'. IT A-text gives 938 A. H. Elliot reads 943 A. H. (viii. ii), but gives the correct date 939 A. H. in the description of the building of Dinpanah in V 124-126. Dinpanah means <the Shelter of the Faith'. KHULASAT: DELHI. ished the city of Ala [-u-d-din Khilji] known as Kuahk- Sain, founded another. His son, Salim Shah in 953 A. H. (1546 A.D.) built the fort of Salimgarh, which is still extant, in the midst of the river Jumna, opposite the citadel of Shah-Jahanabad. Although each of these kings founded a separate city and made it his capital, yet Delhi alone became famous in all parts of the country as the capital of the kings of Hindustan. In the year 1048 A. H. (1638 A, D.), corresponding to the I2th year from the glorious accession of the Emperor Shah Jahan, he founded a city near Delhi and named it Shah-Jahanabad. On this town being founded, all the cities of the former kings, which have been described above, lost their names and became famous under the general name of Shah-Jahanabad, just as other rivers on uniting with the river Ganges get the name of Ganges. Its citadel is built very strongly with red stone and contains charming buildings, many palaces (which are the store- houses of pleasure), all sorts of houses (which are the lurking-places of cheerfulness), many kinds of seats (which are the abodes of repose), several pleasant porticoes, flowing canals, large tanks, spacious reser- voirs of water, lofty fountains, gardens of eternal spring, trees loaded with fruits, which everywhere [18 6] re- mind one of the land of Paradise ; and every part of the town rivals Paradise. Every one of its palaces looks more beautiful than the palace of a Kaiser (em- peror) ; every one of its mansions ravishes the soul like the mansion of Kisra* [Verses :] Every spot of its soil is like Paradise ; In every place there is a garden. Its flower-beds are so pleasant, that one may say garh (14) Sh J ah an at 1638 A. Its beau * One of the titles of Naushirwan the Just. KHULASAT : DELHI. The Jumna canal. Cosmopoli- tan popu- lation of Delhi That its lanes are the streets of Paradise. Its air is heart-attracting and heart-captivat- ing ; Freshness is like a slave-child of this place. Around it is a broad ditch full of pure water, so very clear that a grain of sand in it is visible in a dark night, and so very deep that its fishes rival the Fish supporting the universe. [Verses :] At the bottom of its water, so great is its purity, A blind man can count the fine sands at midnight. Its depth is so great That the earth seems to have disappeared from its bottom. The river Jumna, flowing eastwards, acquires dig- nity and glory by kissing the feet of this fort, and goes onwards with a hundred kinds of splendour. A royal canal,* which has been cut from the hill of Sir- mur, adds to the splendour of the streets and markets of the city and confers bounty on the citizens. Enter- ing grand houses, it keeps tanks and reservoirs full to the brim and gardens fresh ; or issuing from fountains it forms a wonderful spectacle. [Verse:] On every side of that garden there is a canal, Rising and falling like a party of drunkards. A wall of stone aud mortar encloses the city. Its circumference is more than the imagination can com- prehend ; and the number of the population within and around it is beyond the range of description* The men of Roum (Turkey), Zanzibar, and Syria, the English, the Dutch, the men of Yemen, Arabia, Iraq, Khorasan, Khwarizm, Turkistan, Kabul, Zabulistan, * Excavated by Finir Shah in 1356 A. D. (Elliot, iv. 8.) KHULASAT : DELHI. Cathay, Khotan, China, Machin,* Kashghar, Qalmaqis- tan, Tibet, and Kashmir and other provinces of Hindu- stan, have chosen their abode in this large city, and, having learnt the manners and speech of this place, which is the place of origin of the Hindustani lan- guage, they engage themselves in their own business and trades. The classes of its population agree together like prose sentences, and the manners of its people ar e harmonious like the verses of poetry. Its heart-ravishing houses have perfect beauty and charm ; its soul-refreshing pleasure-houses possess grace and happiness ; [19 a] its streets look like the flower-beds of a garden in ornament and beauty ; the squares of every ward of this town are beautiful and heart-ravish- ing like the squares of a garden ; every one of its houses and mansions looks like flower-beds of eternal spring; in every lane and street are canals filled to the brim with water of a sweet taste ; the roads of its bazar are bright and heart-attractive like the veins of jewels ; its shops are full of happiness and beauty like the two eye-brows of beloved ones. In this bazar, where all precious and rare things of every country port and city and all wonderful articles can be had, are bought and sold at one place the rubies of Badakhshan and sparkling pearls and sapphires, lustrous pearls of Oman, bright pearls, corals, and other lustrous jewels of sea and mine ; at another place various kinds of cloth, merchandise, weapons, food- stuffs and drink, perfumes, and other articles which men require. At another place, many kinds of dry and fresh fruits of every country excite a sweet sensa- tion and pleasure in the membranes of the stomachs of fastidious lovers of good cheer. Elsewhere elephants The Bazar in Delhi. * Mahachin or Greater China, a named applied to China. (Ain ii. 118 and Elliot, i. 45). KtftJLASAT ! DELHI. Jumma Musjid. of renown, wind-paced horses, and swift sumpter camels and other animals in thousands and thousands, yield profit to the buyers and sellers. Every day the bustle of the buying and selling of all commodities is great, and the crowd of buyers and sellers is beyond limit or calcu- lation ; somuch so, that you may here collect in one day all the royal articles suitable for the requirements of a kingdom ; and the necessary outfit of a thousand soldiers can be got together in one hour, without the delay of preparation. [Verses :] The men of Iraq and Khorasan have placed before them their commodities without limit ; Europeans, having come from Europe, have arranged rare imports in order before them. On every side sits a jeweller, having caused the oceans to lament {the robbery of their gems.] On every side have been set a hundred lustrous rubies ; in every shop is a mine of Badakhshan. From a single shop can be offered for our inspection the articles of the seven climes.* Although in every lane, bazar, square, and street they have erected mosques, temples, monasteries, and colleges, (from which men derive the benefits of this world and the next, and gain material and spiritual advantages), yet in the centre is the Emperor's Jumma mosque, strongly built with red stone in the year 1060 A. H, (1651 A. D.), corresponding to the 24th year of Shah Jahan's reign, It is so high that the voice of its muazzin\ reaches the ears of the deni- * The Arab geographers regarded the whole world as divided into seven climates- (A in ii, 115 H.) t The crier who summons the people to prayer in a mosque. KHULASAT : DELHI, zens of the sky. [19] It is so spacious that a world may be put within it. Its pulpit is high like the dignity of the summit of the noble law of Muhammad. Its arches are the places of adoration of men of religion. Its cupolas lift their heads up to the dome of heaven. Its minars reach the ramparts of the sky. Its doors are open to all, like the doors of the liberal. Its interior is ready to impart bounty like the interior [*. *?., heart] of holy men. Its porticoes and cells are places for the peformance of austere devotions. Its turrets and pulpits are the lecture-rooms of good men. Its quadrang- les are free from impurities, like the hearts of the pure- hearted. Its reservoirs of water are full of bounty like the ambition of high-minded men. [Verses : ] From its quadrangle another bounty can be derived ; In its reservoir one can get the water of*Jausar* On account of its height the sky appears to be one of its steps ; The Moon and the Sun are under its shadow. Its portico is the altar of the Children of the Faith; It is a counterpart of the mosque of Agsa.j Among the good buildings is the Imperial Bath. What an excellent bath, well situated and inscribed with pleasure ! Its air, like the air of New Year's Day, refreshes the spirit, and like the days of April scatters bounty. Its hot-rooms create warmth like the excite- ment of pleasure. Its cool rooms give repose to fatigu- ed constitutions. In temperateness it rivals the air of Paradise. Its dome vies with the upper sky. Its warmth, like natural warmth, J stimulates health. One grows robust from its coolnes, wjiich is like the I m peri a Bath * The river of nectar in Paradise. t The Temple of Jerusalem. I That is, the warmth of the body of a living being. KHULASAT : DELHI. Praise of Delhi in prose, coolness of the body. The Sun wanders from sign to sign in the sky in longing for its tower. The Moon heartily desires it in order to get rid of her chill. Whosoever enters it, feels the different temperatures of the different seasons. He puts off the vestments of [worldly] ties ; he paces the path of retirement like lonely hermits, he chooses the path of purity and cleanliness like those who are pure in their nature. Many diseases are cured by the bath, such as disorder of the brain, heaviness of the limbs, yawning caused by crop-sickness, and dulness of the system. Many kinds of happiness are gained in it, such as cheerfulness of spirit, freshness of the brain, liveliness of the heart, and purity of the body. The tempering of water and heat is [always] a difficult matter. But in this wonderful place water and fire issue harmoniously blended together. No other place is free from wind and dust ; but this is a rare place, as wind and dust cannot enter here. [Verses :] In it water and fire work together ; Air and dust are away from its door. In it there is a sky named Hammam (bath) [20. a.] The Moon and the Sun are called the gul and jam* (rose and cup.) In this world, from the temperateness of its constitution, The elements have been [harmoniously] blended together. In short, it is a city of perfect spaciousness and extent ; a capital city and the centre of the kingdom. Travellers of the seven climates and tourists of the habitable world cannot point out any other town on the surface of the earth so spacious or so largely populated. * Our author probably means that the bath may be likened to the concave roof of heaven, and that the rose and the cup play the parts of Sun and Moon in this heaven. KHULASAT : DELHI. The city of Stamboul (Constantinople,) the capital of the Sultan of Roum, which is famous for its largeness and extent, is not a tenth part of a tenth part of this city. The cities of Kazwin * and Isfahan, the capitals of the Shah of Persia, which are famous for excellence and beauty, do not come up to even a single quarter of this city. Eloquent and accomplished poets and elo- quent masters of condition and speech f have described the beauty of this unparalleled city in heart-ravishing verses, prose pieces, and odes. Among them are the following : [Verses :] It is a great city, exactly like heaven, The centre of India, and the capital of kings. Like the circuit of heaven it enhances pleasure. Like a garden in spring it exhilarates the spirit. Its inhabitants are all like favourite sons, Accomplished, ingenious, and learned. All of them are victorious in battle and conquerors of the world ; All of them are of a nature acceptable to the Lord of the world. All of them have the dignity and rank of Khans ; All possess the elegance and pomp of a king ; All are sagacious like Abu AH ; J All of them repeat the name of God like the angelic host. All are layers of healing ointment on woun- ded hearts ; All are free from the troubles of the times, * Situated a little to the west of Teheran, t That is, wise men. t Abu AH Husain bin Abdullah bin Sina, better -known as. Avicenna, b. 980, d, 1036 A, D, 2 and in verse. KHULASAT : DELHI. Tomb of Humayun, All are sweet-voiced like David ; All distinguished in their respective arts and professions. All with the face of Yusuf and the love of Zuleikha ;* All with the disposition of Farhad f and the taste of Shinn. All closely united to the persons of their desires, All intoxicated with the wine of happiness. Within and around this large town are the tombs of many of the former kings ; but the most famous is the sepulchre of the Emperor Humayun, which is situated in the Kilugarhi of Kiqobad, on the bank of the river Ganges. The tombs of the Nobles, Ministers, Scholars, and accomplished persons each of whom was in his own days reputed perfect, situated within orchards and gardens, are too many to be enumerated. There is a separate town formed by the tombs of the departed. There are so many saints' tombs, the manifestations of blessing, that their number cannot be expressed in writing. Among them, situated two or three kos from the town is the tomb of Khawajah Qutbu-d-din Bakhtiar Kciki, J [20. .] the son of Khawajah Kamalu-d-din Ahmad Musi. It is said that his birth-place was Ferghanah. When a child, he felt attracted to God. His Holiness Khizr happened to pass by him and the mirror of his understanding became polished. In the 1 8th year of his life in this world of dreams, he got the rank of successor from Khawajah Muinu-d-din Tomb of Qutbaddin Bakhtiar Kaki * The wife of Potiphar. "r A celebrated Persian statuary, famous for his love of Shirin (Malcolm's Histoiy of Persia, I. 129.) I Also known as Uski from his birthplace. Born 585, A. H. For his life see Derm ii. 2-5 and Ain. iii. 363. A prophet. (Ain. in. 375). KHULASAT : DELHI, Chishti * and set out on his travels. Having reached Baghdad, he gathered grace from many saints in that country. Coming to Multan he met Shaikh Bahau-d- din Zakaria. f In the reign of Sharnsu-d-din Altarnsh, he came to Delhi, in order to meet Khawajah Muinu- d-din Chishti, his preceptor. That true preceptor, by divine inspiration came from Ajmir to Delhi for the purpose of meeting him. The interview pleased both of these members of the court of God. They lived together for some time. After a few clays, Khawajah Muinu-d-din went back to Ajmir, but Qutbu-d-din elected to live at Delhi and thereby conferred much grace upon the men of this world. Afterwards on the morning of the I4th Rabiu-1-Awal, 633 A. H. (1235 A. D.), J he left this fleeting world. In this quarter is also the tomb of that manifesta- tion of light, Shaikh Nizamu-d-din Auliya, alias Muhammad bin Ahmad Darnal. Born in the country of Ghaznin in 632 A. H. (1234 A. D), he, on reaching years of discretion, came by chance to Budaun and there acquired the usual learning. Gaining victories in disputations, he became famous under the name of Nizam the Disperser of Assemblies, In his 2oth year, he went to the town of Ajodhan [| and became the disciple of Shaikh Faridu-d-din Ganj-i-Shakkar. If Having got in his hand the key to the treasury of Reality, he departed for Delhi, in order to guide the people. Having conferred grace on many seekers [after spiritual knowledge], he gained great eminence. His disciples were famous men, namely, Shaikh Nasiru-d-din * Born 537 A. H. d. 633 A. H. (A in. iii. 361). t See A In (iii 362) for his life. | According to Niarnutu-llah, 603 A. II. (Dorn, pt. II. S-) See Ain. (ni. 365) for his life. (i Or Pak Pattan in the Panjah, ^F See Am (iii 363) for hib lie. Tomb < Nizami din Auliya; KHULASAT: DELHI Mahiuddin Abdul Kadr Gilani. Mahmud surnamed the Lamp of Delhi and Arnir Khusrau in Delhi; Shaikhs Alau-1-Haq and Akhi Siraj in Bengal ; Shaikh Ojihu-d-din Yusuf at Chanderi; Shaikhs Yakub and Kamal in Malwa ; Maulana Ghias at Dhar ; Maulana Maghis in Ujjain ; Shaikh Hisamu-d-din in Gujrat ; Sharkhs Burhanu-d-din and Muntakhab and Khawajah Hasan in the Deccan ; and in [21. a.] many other places. And even now all his descendants and vicars are successfully acting as spiritual guides to the people of this country. In short, His Holiness marched away from this perishable world to the eternal world at 9 A. M. on Wednesday, the 1 8th of Rabiu-s-Sani, in 710 A. H. (1310 A. D.) He gained greater fame for saintship than all other saints of Hindustan. The genealogy of this member of the Court of God goes back to the saint of saints, His Holiness Miran Mahiu- d-din Abdu-1-Kadr Gilani, * who is said to have been one of the Sayids descended from Husain, and in the fifth generation form Shaikh Shibli. f Near Baghdad is a village named Jil which was the residence of His Holi- ness ; hence he is known as Jilani, and also as Gilani. Born in 471 A. H. (1078 A. D.), he was unrivalled in his age in customary and spiritual learning. He inherited the mantle of saintship of Shaikh Abu Said Mubarak. His greatness of character, amiability of speech, wonder- ful acts, and impressive miracles arrested the attention of the world. Crowds of people came to him from all sides of the earth with material and spiritual desires, and, by placing the yoke of faith on the shoulders of their souls, gained their desires. In 561 A. H. (1165 A. D.) in his ninetieth year, His Holiness hastened from the perishable to the eternal world. Five hundred and * See Am, iii. 357. t The Ain has "spiritually connected with Shibli through four intermediaries.'' KHULASAf : DELHI. fifty years have passed away from his departure up to the writing of this book, and his auspicious name is still living, and in every part of the world numbers of men still repose their faith in him. In short, thirty kos from Shah-Jahanabad is PAN I PAT, an old town. In this town is the revered tomb of Abu AH Qalandar. * This Shaikh in his fortieth year came to Delhi and gained the happiness of meeting with Khawajah Qutbu-d-din Bakhtiar, and for twenty years acquired secular knowledge, when he attained to a passion for God, and the mirror of his soul became illuminated. Having thrown into the water of the Jumna all books of worldly learning, [21. b\ he set out on travel. Going to Turkey, he con- versed with Shamsu-d-din Tabrizi, Maulana Jalalu-d-din Rumi (who has written spiritual Masnavis\ and other holy men of that country, and was greatly benefited. After his travels, returning to his own country, he led the life of a recluse at Panipat, and from that place passed on to the eternal world. His many miracles are his memorial. The tomb of this Manifes- tation of Light is an object of pilgrimage to the people of the world. SlRHIND is an ancient town, and a dependency of Sainanah."\ Sultdn Firuz Sh&h, in his own reign, in 760 A. H. (1359 A. D.) separated it from Sam^nah and made it an independent pargancih ; and its population and splendour daily increased. Although many favourites of the court of God have their tombs here, yet, among the saints of the present time Shaikh * Better known as Sharafu-d-din of Panipat. For his life, see Ain^ iii. 368. t Samanah is mentioned in the Ain (ii. 296) as one of the mahals of the Sarkar of Sirhind in the Subah of Delhi. It is now in Patiala, Pan i apt tomb of Abu AH Qalandai Sirhind 14 KHULASAT : D EL1JJ. Sadhaura, Sunam. Hansi. Shrine of Bhima Devi Faridu-d-din Sani and Shaikh Muhammad Masum Kabuli repose in this town. Both of these great saints had the gratification of guiding men in the time of the Emperor Shah Jahan ; numbers of people are spiritually benefited by reposing their faith in him.* Even now his descendants are seated in the seat of adoration. At Sadhaura f is the place of sleep of Shah Qames, who enjoyed the honour of saintship in his life-time. At Sunam J is the tomb of Shaikh Taiwi, an object of pilgrimage to people. At Hansi, which is an old town, is the tomb of Shaikh Jamalu-d-din, the successor of Shaikh Faridu-d-din Ganj-i-Shakkar. In short, there are so many tombs of eminent saints in this province that they defy calculation. I have selected only these few. As I have done writing about the holy places connec- ted with the Muhammadan saints, a few of the Hindu shrines situated in this province ought to be described. Twenty kos from Sirhind, on the skirt of the hills, is a shrine, Ekhat Bhuayah (Kot Bhima?), associated with Bhima Devi, and from ancient times a place of worship of the Hindus. In the fourth year of Alamgir, (1661 A.D.) Fidai Khan Koka, one of the great nobles, made it his residence and named it Bejaur. By command of the Emperor, he expelled the Raja of this place from his ancestral home, [22. a.] laid out a pleasant garden with five terraces one above another, and built attractive * The text has the singular number, + Sadhaurah was a niahal of Sirhind and had a brick fort. (Am. ii. 296.) J Ain. ii. 296. Different from Bajwara (42. A), a village in Hoshiarpur Dis- trict, Panjab, i# miles east of Hoshiarpur town. A very ancient place, and, originally the head-quarters of the ISaru Rajputs. The fort was built by the Kangra chief Suusar. (Imperial Gaz^ i. 439.) K1IULASAT: DELHI. edifices and pleasant mansions. By bringing to this garden the canal which issues from the hill, he caused fountains to flow. They form a wonderful spectacle and a rare sight. The abundance and sweet scent of the 'red flower* which is an expression signifying the rose of this place are famous. The writer of this book went in the spring season to walk in this garden of eternal spring. On that single day, forty maunds of the rose-flower, according to the Alamgiri measure of weight, were taken to the rose-water factory. And it daily increased. Thirty kos south of Sirhind is the ancient town of Thanisar, and near it is a very large tank named KURU-KHET* (Kuru-kshetra). In Hindu books it is called the Navel of the Earth, and it is held that the creation of earthly beings began here. Looking upon it as an honoured place, they consider it an act of great merit to bathe in its tank. Although it is meritorious at all times to bathe in it, yet, on the day of the Solar eclipse large numbers of people, high and low, great and small, male and female, assemble here from all parts of the world and all sides of the country and from remote distances. They give away in charity many kinds of things, both in cash and kind, openly and secretly. Even if a man happens to be a stingy miser or an empty-handed person or a pauper, he on that day and at that place practises liberality beyond his means and capacity. Besides the aforesaid lake, there are many tanks reservoirs and wells in the out-skirts of the city and in many other places. The river Sarsatt passes by this town. The ancient books mention the names of all places which are associated with the old devotees. [A space] about forty kos [in area] is considered holy because the Pandus and Kurus who reigned over the Rose-wai Thanesv Bathing the tan! Kurukshi * See Ain. ii. 281 n. KHULASAT: DELHI. Sambhal Nanak Math Kaniaun ; mines The Jumna its source Uh: Philoso- pher's stone people of Hindustan fought in this place and drank the draught of martyrdom.* Forty kos eastf of the capital is the old town of SAMBIIAL ; within it is Har Mandir>\ an ancient place of worship. It is believed that the last man, the manifestation of divine light, will be born here. [22. &] Near it is a place called Nanak Math, where the followers of Baba Nanak assemble and chant his praise. Northwards lies the mountain of KUMAUN, contain- ing mines of gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, arsenic, and borax. The musk-deer, qutas\ cow, hawk, falcon, pony, and wild honey are plentiful here. The land- holders of this place, by reason of the inaccessibility of the mountain and the impregnability of their strong- holds, do not obey the rulers of Hindustan. There are two large rivers in this province. The first is the JUMNA. Its source is unknown. After issuing from China and traversing difficult mountainous countries, it reaches the country of Leh, as travellers report. It is said that gold abounds in this country. Many bits of stone have the property of the Philoso- pher's stone, i.e., on touching them copper, iron, and other metals are turned into gold. As this stone cannot be distinguished, the people of this country put iron shoes on their goats, sheep, and kine, and send them to graze on the hills. Very often the shoes of these grazing animals become golden by contact with that stone. The vases, kettledrums, and other articles utensils of the king of this country are of gold. * The word originally meant death in a religious war, then, death in any sort of battle. t A-text reads north, but has a marginal correction east. \ The Ain reads Hart Mandal (ii. 281.) Elliot (viii. 304) mentions 'Nanak-math in the skirt of the hills.' A-text reads * Nanak -mat a.* Jairett explains it as the Yak cow. (Ain. ii. 172.) KHULASAT: DELHI. In short, this river after leaving this place, reaches the territory of SlRMUR. The king of this country proves his obedience and holds himself and his kingdom in safety by sending by the river highway boat- loads of ice as a present to the Emperors of Hindustan and their nobles and ministers. Therefore, all people, high and low alike, call him the Ice-King (Barfi-Rafah^ Near the city of Sirmur the river leaves the hill and descends to the plain. The Emperor Shah Jahan ordered a palace to be built at this place on the bank of the swelling torrent. The high grandees and other Imperial officers having each built a house worthy of his condition and rank, a heart-ravishing city has been formed, which is famous under the name of Mukhlis- pur.* The Emperor often travelled to this pleasant place, [23. #] and enjoyed great happiness. From this place branches off a royal canal, which may be styled one-half of the river Jumna. It runs up to the metropolis Shah-Jahanabad ; it does good to the crops of many parganahs, confers freshness on the gardens in the suburbs of the capital, lends happiness to the streets and bazar, and enhances the splendour of the Imperial palaces. The above river, after emerging from the hill and adding splendour to many tracts, reaches the foot of the city of Shah- Jahanabad. On its bank is situated a fortress con- taining charming houses and the mansions of the nobles. Fifteen leagues from this place, it reaches the feet of the towns of Mathura, Gokul, and Sri Vrindavan. Then it arrives at the capital Akbarabad (Agra.) In this town also there are Imperial and baronial palaces on the bank of the river. Issuing thence, it flows by the fortified town of Etawah, and then the city of Kalpi. Sirmur, Shah Jahan's pleasure- house at Mukhlispi Jumna canal. * Literally, the * Beloved or Pure city.' 3 KHULASAT: DELHI. Next it comes to the city of Akbarpur,* the birth-place of Rajah Birbal of Akbar's time. On its bank stand the lofty spacious and strong houses of that Rajah. The river CHAMBAL unites with the Jumna near Akbarpur, and the rivers Betwah, Dhasan,f and others which come from the direction of Gondwanah fall into the Jumna apart from each other. Thence going to the mahal of MalkusahJ it unites with the waters of the Ganges at the foot of the fort of Allahabad. The second is the GANGES. Nobody knows its source ; but the Hindus believe that it descended from heaven, as old and authentic works say. After issuing from heaven and descending on the hill of Kailas, it leaves the latter and reaches the country of China. It is stated in the Shahnamah of Firduusi that the resi- dence of Prince Siaus the son of Kikaus Shah and son-in-law of Afrasiab, was on the bank of the river Ganges. After leaving China it arrives at Badti\\ in the mountains. The region [is called] Himanchal^ that is * The Circle of Ice/ Hindus look upon the dissolution of the elementary body at this place as a cause of redemption in the next world, so much so that Union with the Chambal and the Ganges. The Ganges : its course. Badri, * A petty village, 79*23 E. 26'3i. N. (Atlas, sheet 68,) near which the Jumna and the Chambal unite. There is another Akbarpur, the head-quarters of a tahsil in Cawnpur district, midway between Cawnpur and Kalpi, but it is far away from the river. (/. G. i. 138.) t The Dhassan> a tributary of the Betwa (Atlas, sheet 69 S. W.) \ In the Sarkar of Kanauj (Am. ii. 185.) Elliot spells it Mai- konsah (iv. 416.) Saius went over to Afrasiab (King of Turan), married his daughter Feringees, and received as her dowry the countries of Chin and and Khoten, of which he fixed Kung as capital. (Malcolm's History of Persia, I. 30.) || Better known as Badrinath, a peak in the Garhwal district, containing a shrine of Vishnu. (/. G. i. 410.) IT Literally, * the skirt of snow.' The usual name is Himachal, the mountain of snow. KHULASAT: DELHI. the Pandus, who were the rulers of the people of this country, [23. b.] abandoned their bodily frames at this place. It is situated in this very mountain. In this hilly region the banks of the river are so high that the water can be hardly seen. The crossing is not done in boats. At appointed places they firmly tie thick ropes to trees on the two banks and use this as a sort of bridge. People come and go over it In the language of that country, it is called chhakna* The crowds of men who come to Badri on pilgrimage from all sides of the world, if they once gaze at this spectacle, become alarmed and frightened in crossing the river. In short, this river having come out of the hill of Badri, reaches the foot of the city of Srinagar,f the residence of the king of that country. Thence it passes by HRISHIKESH, and issues from the hill at Hardwar. Although according to the holy books the river Ganges should be worshipped from "^ origin to its end, yet HARDWAR is described as the greyest of all holy places [on its banks.] Every year, on the day when the Sun enters the sign of Aries, which is called Baisdkhi^ people from every side assemble here. Especially in the year when Jupiter enters the sign of Aquarius (other- wise named Kunibli) which happens once every 12 years, vast numbers of people assemble here from remote distances. They consider bathing, giving alms, and shaving the hair and beard at this place, as acts of merit, and the throwing of the bones of the dead into the Ganges [as the means of] salvation of the deceased. Its water is carried to distant places as a valuable * Hunter calls it ckika (/. G. viii. 65.) t The chief town of Garhwai, District. J Baisakh, a Hindu month, from the middle of April to that of May. Imperial Gazetteer^ v. 333. Ropebridj Hrishikes Hardwar Kunibh inela 2O KHULASAT : DELHI. Praise of Ganges water Towns on the Ganges present It is a most wonderful fact that if the water is kept in a pot even for a year, it does not acquire a bad smell or change its colour. Undoubtedly its water, which is pleasant to the taste, free from impurity like the hearts of the pious, and full of grace like the souls of God's chosen ones, equals in purity and sweetness the water Kausar * and rivals in delicacy and agreeableness the water of Salsabil.f Its perfect purity makes it suitable to men of all constitutions. Many benefits [24. a.] are derived from it ; that is to say, it confers health and recovery on the sickly, and the benefits of medicine in the case of long-standing diseases. It causes stoutness and cheerfulness in the healthy. It gives purity to the unclean stomach and brightness to the internal heat ; it increases the appetite and stimulates the sexual energy. It makes the amber-coloured face look like the ruby, and the saffron-complexioned face purple. This is the reason why the kings of Hindustan and the great nobles, wherever they may be, drink the water of the Ganges. In short, this river after leaving Hardwar and flowing by the BARHA J of the Sayyids, arrives at the foot of the fort of Hastinapur, which in olden times was the capital and had a population covering a space of some leagues in length and breadth. Thence, passing by the forts of Muktesar, Anup-shahar, Karanbas, Soron, and Badaon, (which are famous places), it reaches Kanauj, * The river of nectar in Paradise. t A fountain of pure 'water in Paradise. J A cluster of twelve villages in MuzafFarnagar District, held by a famous family of Sayyids or descendants of the Prophet. (Ain. i. 390). Garh-Muktesar, a manal of the Sarkar of Delhi (Ain ii- 287). Anupshahar, a town in a tahsil of the same name in the N. W. P. (7. G. I. 294.) Karanbas. is described in Imperial Gazetteer vii. 465. Soron, 78*49 E. 27*53 N., is given in Atlas, (sheet 68). KHULASAT: DELHI. an ancient town, and increases the splendour of that country. Leaving this place and passing by Sirajpur, Khajwah, Manikpur, Shahzadpur* and other mahals^ it arrives at the foot of the fort of Allahabad. There the Jumna, coming with some other rivers, becomes united with it. Thirty kos from this [junction], it reaches the city of Benares. Then passing by Chunargarh and some other makalS) up to the point where it reaches the foot of the city of Patna, 72 navigable rivers, having come p atn a down from the northern and southern mountains, unite with it at different places, at distances from each other ; and they from one deep river whose bank cannot be seen. All these rivers get the name of Ganges. Thence passing by Jahangirabad, f Akbarnagar (alias Rajmahal,) Maqsudabacl (Murshidabad) Mirdadpur, and Khizrahati, it reaches the foot of the town of Jahangir- nagar Dacca. After some leagues, it parts into two branches ; one, flowing east, gets the name of Padmavati J and falls into the ocean near the port of Chatgaon ; the other, turning south, branches off into three channels, of which the first is called Sarsati, the second Jumna, and the third Ganga. [24. 6.] This third, with its thousand branches, joins the ocean near the port of Satgaon. The Sarsati and Jumna also fall into the ocean at the same place. * All given in Lett's Popular Atlas, India, sheet 10. t Rennell's Bengal Alias gives Janguira^ J8 miles w. of Bhagal- pur (Sheet 2), and Hazeryhutti, 31 miles E. of Murshidabad (Sheet 6.) The Khizrahati of the text must be a mistake for Haz- rahati (Ain. ii. 132.) Jarrett wrongly spells it I\hiztakhani'm the next page of the Ain. Mirdadpur not identified. J The main stream of the Ganges in Lo\\er Bengal is called the Padma, Sanskrit Sapta-gram (seven villages), the ancient name of Hugli (Ain ii. 125), KHULASAT: fcELHI. Wickedness of dwellers on the Ganges Agriculture Extent Revenue. Travellers say that from its beginning (the emerg- ence of the river from the hill) to its end (its reaching the ocean,) the inhabitants of its banks are all men of wicked professions, quarrelsome, thieves, highway rob- bers, shedders of blood, and oppressors of men. As on bathing in this river, sins become detached from the bodies of men, so these sins are certainly by transmi- gration born again on its banks in the form of men, and become the cause of such wicked deeds. In short, in this province the climate is almost temperate. Cultivation depends upon rain and irriga- tion, and in some places on wells. In certain tracts, tillage yields three crops [in the year.] The various fruits of Iran, Turan, and Hindustan and fragrant flowers grow in plenty. The houses are lofty and built of brick or stone. Eastwards lies the province of Akbarabad, west- wards* that of Lahore, southwards Ajmir, and north- wards the hilly region of Kumaun. From Palwalf in the direction of Akbarabad to Ludiana on the bank of the river Sutlcj, the length is 160 kosl ; and from the Sarlcar of Revvari to the hill of Kumaun, the breadth is 140 kos. The Satkars are Shah-Jahanabad, Sirhind, Hisar-Firuza, Shahranpur, Sambhal, Badaon, Rewari and Narnal 8 Sarkars, comprising 229 mahals. The revenue of the province is 74 kror, 63 lac, and 35 thousand dam (Rs. 18,658,375.) * A text omits the passage from " westwards " to "direction of Akbarabad." B-text supplies the omission. t /, Gazetteer, xi. 21, and Ain. ii. 278. \ 165 kos, according to Ain. ii 278. The Ain gives Kumaun instead of Narnol, the latter being a Sarkar of the province of Agra (ii. 193.) Now, deducting the revenue of Kumaun and adding that of Narnol, we get 61, 19, 99, 66j dam (Rs. 15,299, 991-8) as the revenue of the province of Delhi in Akbar's time. (Ain. ii. 285). II. AGRA. The Province of Akbarabad, the Seat of the Empire. AGRA was originally a village, a dependency of the parganah of Biana. King Sikandar Lodi (1488-1516) considering it to be a pleasant place, made it the capital during his reign and founded a worthy city.* After that the town became known as BADAL GARH.f Subsequently, the Emperor Akbar, regarding it as the centre of the protected empire, laid the foundations of a stone fort of perfect strength ; and a town of unpar- alleled spaciousness and extent became inhabited under the name of Akbarabad. Travellers [25. a.] have seen few such strong forts or large towns. The water of the Jumna flows through the middle of the town for 4 kos ; and on both sides lofty buildings and charming villas have been built. Men of every race and country live in it ; and articles of the seven divisions of the globe are bought and sold here. Various kinds of fruits, espe- cially the melons of Persia and Turkistan, many kinds of flowers, and excellent betel-leaf are also found here. The air is delicious. Although its excellent artisans of every art and workmen of every profession are skilful in their respective trades, yet gold and silver embroidery on turbans and other kinds of cloth is very nicely done. Merchants, coming from [the other parts of] the king- dom and distant places, make purchases and gain profit. In short, this town has every ornament. There are in it the tombs of many great saints and eminent scholars ; and the illuminated sepulchres of their Majesties the Agra Akbar's capital Tombs of Akbar and Shah Jahan * The Agra of the Lodis lay on the left bank of the river, while Akbar's city was on the right bank. (Am. ii. 180 n.) t According to Elliot this name was applied to the citadel of Agra (v, 491) and also to an out- work of Gwalior fort (v. 13). KHULASAT: AGRA. Biana Sikri Akbar's buildings. red stone quarry Gwalior, a state prison iron mines Emperors Jalalu-d-din Akbar* and Shahabu-d-din Muhammad Shah Jahanf are situated near this town. BlANA J was formerly a great city and had a strong fort, and captive rebels used to be confined in its fort Its wood-apples and melons are excellent, and mangoes sometimes grow to one seer [in weight.] SIKRI was a village, a dependency of Biana, and 12 kos from Akbarabad. The Emperor Akbar. having at the instance of the greatest of eminent saints Shaikh Salim, built a stone fort, strong houses, mosques, schools, and villas, and named it Fatihpur, made it a capital. Near it is a large tank, two kos in length and breadth alike, which confers bounty on the people. There are on its banks a royal platform, high turrets, arenas for elephant-fights, and ground for playing chaugan.\\ Near it is a quarry of red stone ; pillars, slabs, and other building requisites of every size that is desired, are taken out of it. GUALIAR is a populous place, with a pleasant climate. Its strength and impregnability are well-known, and prisoners sentenced to punishment are confined within it. The excellence of speech of its inhabitants, the singing of its musicians, the enchanting power of its singers, and the charm of its fair ones are famous. There are iron mines in some places in this district. In this town is the tomb of Shaikh Muhammad Ghaus,1f who in his time had the rank of a saint. * At Sikandra, 5 miles N. \V. of Agra city. t In the Taj Mahal. \ Now a town in the Bhartpur State, Rajputana, 50 m. S. W. of Agra (I. G. ii. 418). Shaikh Salim-i-Chishti, who died in 979 A. H. || Hockey, according to Blochmann's interpretation. (Am. i. 297.) t Died 970 A. H. (1562 A. D.) He had great influence over Akbar when the Emperor was young (Al-Badaoni. ii. 28 and 62.) For his tomb, see Fergusson, 576. KHULASAT : AGRA. KALPI [25. 6. J is a town on the bank of the river Jumna, and the burial-place of many saints. The sugar-candy of this place is famous. There is a cave containing mines of copper and turquoise, but the expense [of working them] is greater than the return. MATHURA is an ancient town on the bank of the Jumna. It is the birth-place of Sri Krishna. Hindu books describe its great honour. It has been known as a place of worship from the beginning of its existence. In modern times, the temple of Keshav Rai* was famous, but it was demolished by command of the Emperor Alamgir and a mosque was built [ in its place. ] Abdu-n-Nabi Khan, the commandant of the forces, by building a flight of beautiful steps on the bank of the river Jumna, has increased the beauty of the city and conferred bounty on the townsfolk ; this place is called Bisrant (Repose.) He has made his name celebrated also by building a high mosquef in the middle of the city. KANAUJ is an ancient town on the bank of the river Ginges. Its climate and fruits are excellent. At MakhanpurJ, a dependency of Kananj, is the place of sleep of Shaikh Baciiu-d-dm, better known as Shah Madar and Shah-baz, who was one of the eminent saints of India. Many people, both high and low, believe in His Holiness, and once a year groups of men from distances assemble with golden banners and discharge their vows ; and for some days there is a vast crowd of people and a wonderful spectacle. f He *The temple of Keshava Deva was demolished and a mosque erected on its site in [669 (I. (i x. 54.) Elliot calls it the Dchra. Kesu /to/ and its builder Nar Singh Deo 15imdela fvii. 184.) tThe Jama Masjid, built m 1662. (/. u- x- 84.; \ Now in Cawnpur District. (/. (7. ix. 2i<^. His life is given in A in. (iii. 370.) Kalpi Mines Muttra Hindu temple demolished Ghat Kanauj KHULASAT: AGRA. Chambal Extent flourished ] in the reign of Sultan Ibrahim Sharqi (1401-1440 A. D.)* In this province are two rivers : one, the Jumna, a detailed account of which has been already given ; the other, the Chambal, which issuing from Hasilpur 'a dependency of Malwa) passes within eight kos of Agra, and through the territory of Bhadaurf and the mahals of the Karkar of Irij,* and falls into the Jumna near Akbarpur, a dependency of Kalpi. In short, east of this province lies Ghatampur ; north the river Ganges ; south Chanderi ; west Palwal. Its length from Ghatampur in Allahabad to Palwal (a dependency of the province of Shah-Jahanabad) is 170 kos. Its breadth from Kanauj to Chanderi (appertain- ing to the province of Malwa i is 100 kos. Its Sarkars are Akbarabad, Bari, Alwar, Tijarah, Irij, Kalpi, Satuan, Kanauj, Kol, [26. a.} Narwar, Mandlapur (Mandlaer), Gualior, and [two] others, 14 Sar/cars comprising .?68 mahals. Its revenue is 98 kror and 1 8 lac dam iRs. 24, 545, ooo) and 65 thousand and 8 hundred abnah. Revenue * The A -text is corrupt here. t Not intlcntified. I Spelt I rich in Imperial Garcttecr (vii, 23), now in Jhansi District. It is close to the Betwah and not the Chambal. J5 Under Akbar, this province had 13 Sarkars, 262 mahals, and a revenue of Us. 13, 656, 257-9-6. (excluding Narnol which our author assigns to the province of Delhi and not to the prpvince of Aijra, as the Ain does.) Of the remaining- twelve Sarkars of the Ain, Bayamvan may be identified with the Satuan of our text, aud Sahar may be one of the two Sarkars left unnamed by our author, while the other ten agree with the list given above. (Ain. ii. 311.) III. ALLAHABAD. The Broad and Spacious Province of Allahabad. In Hindu books it is named Prayag and also Tribeni. The Emperor Akbar, having built between the rivers Ganges and Jumna a strong stone fort and excellent mansions, founded a city and named it Illahabas. But the Emperor Shah Jahan, in his own reign, gave it the name of Allahab.id.* The rivers Ganges and Jumna mingle together at the foot of the fort. Moreover, a stream issuing from the fort falls in- to the above mentioned river ; it is called Sarsati. For this reason, the place is called Tribeni (three braids of hair), that is, u the union of three rivers." But the Hindu books do not speak of the Sarsati issuing from this place. Within the fort there is a very old tree, called the Akhay Bar, f that is, the imperishable [Banian tiee.] It is narrated in Hindu books that this tree has been always there and will remain undestroyed till the end of the world. By command of the Emperor Jahangir, it was cut down and a cauldron of iron firmly placed over [the stump.] But by the will of God, the tree again raised its head from under this iron and grew high. In short, the Hindus regard this place as a very ancient and most holy place of worship, indeed, as the king of holy places. In winter, when the Sun enters the Sign of Capricorn (which they call flfidw), crowds of people assemble together from all sides of the world and, staying here for one month, daily engage in cere- monial ablutions ; and every one gives alms to the poor and indigent, as far as he can. They also pay a Allahabad Union of three livers Sacred B;tnian tree H<ihmg in tin.- month of Al<itrh * Ain. ii. 161. note. t Described in the Imperial Gazetteer, i, 196. 28 KHULASAT : ALLAHABAD. Pilgrim tax Benares a seat of Hindu earning certain sum per head to the Imperial government As they consider it meritorious to dissolve the combination of elements (the human body) here, many men in former times used to place themselves in the road* in the hope of final redemption and the obtaining of their desires in the next world. This practice was forbidden in the time of Shah Jahan. Thirty kos from it is BENARES, which is written as Banarasi (Baranasi) in Hindu books. As it is situated between the rivers Barna and Asi, it is celebrated under that name. It is also written as Kashi. It is an old town, with the habitations forming a bow, while the river Ganges flows by it like the bow-string. On account of its association with Mahadeo/f [26. b.] it has been regarded as a place of worship from ancient times. It is a treasury of learning, an assembly-hall of learned men, and the school of those that desire the lore of the Hindus. Brahmans who have acquired learning and perfection and readers of the Vedas who are masters of their condition and speech, have their residence here. And Brahmans and sons of Brahmans, from countries far and near, assemble in this city, live here for acquiring and perfecting knowledge, and derive benefit and grace. Many ascetics and pious men, having by God's grace renounced worldly ties, take up their abode here and remain engaged in praising the Lord of Slaves (God ', with a view to making the body free [from passion], which is described in ancient books as the means of salvation in the next world. Aged men and dis- appointed devotees come here with the desire of dying and surrendeiing their lives to the Creator of life. * A- text reads " Khwcsh tan ra dar rail iniawardand^ * put themselves in the way,' but the meaning is not clear. t "Worshipped under the name of Vishwcshivar* Lord of the Uni\eibe. KIIULASAT : ALLAHABAD. There is a place near it on the bank of the Ganges. Every time that Jupiter enters the Sign of Leo, a hillock becomes visible in the middle of the river and remains so far a month ; and many people worship God. This spectacle is one of the miracles manifested by the power of God. CHUNARAH is a stone fort situated on a hill,* which is unparalleled in height and strength. The river Ganges flows at its feet. In its neighbourhood, a tribe, f naked from head to foot, lives in the forest by archery and hunting. KALINJAR is a stone fort on a sky-reaching hill, Nobody can tell its origin. In this fort there are full- flowing streams, many tanks, and the temple of Kal Bhtiiton^ about which last marvellous legends are current. Near it is a forest with ebony trees and wild fruit plants. Many wild elephants are trapped in this forest. Near it is a mine of iron ; and in many places bits of diamond are found, and the people of the place get a share. JAUNPUR is a large town. Sultan Firuz Shah founded it in his own reign and named it after Sultan Muhammad Fakhru-d-din Jauna, the son of his pater- * " On a sand-stone rock jutting into the Ganges and 80 to 175 feet above the level of the surrounding country. (7. G. ii. 346.) t Probably the Tionds ; but the I. G. mentions the Kols and not the Gonds as living in Mirzapur District, in which Chunar is situated. \KalBhairai)) meaning Shiva the Destroyer. "Above the temple is a tank cut out of the solid rock . . . Beyond this is a rock-cut figure of gigantic proportions, repiesenting Kal Bhairan^ with snakes for a head-dress, in which is set the moon .... The figure must be 30 feet high " (/. G'. iii. 336 ) See also Ain. ii. 159. Jauna and Firuz were the sons of two brothers, Ghiasu-d- din Tughlaq and Malik Rajab, respectively. (Al Badaoni, i. 302.) For the foundation of the city, sec Elliot, iii. 307. A miracle Chunar Kalinjar Temple Mines Jaunpur KHULASAT : ALLAHABAD, Crops Industries Extent Revenue nal , uncle. As it was situated In the midst of a re- bellious district, he ordered the commandant of the fort to keep himself always ready for fighting the rebels and to practise bloodshed and cruelty. In short, the whole of this province has an agree- able climate and produces many kinds of flowers and fruits, [27. a.] especially melons and grapes, in plenty. Agriculture is excellent. Moth (vetch) is scarce, Jawari (millet) and Bajra (spiked millet) are not met with. Jhonah and mihrkul* and other kinds of cloth are well woven here. The chief rivers are the Ganges and the Jumna. The Gumti, Sarju, Barna, and other rivers are [the smaller ones.] Its length from Sinjhauli in Jaunpur to the southern mountainf is 160 kos ; its breadth from the ferry of Chausa on the Ganges to Ghatampur is 120 kos. East of it lies the province of Bihar ; west, the province of Akbarabad ; north the province of Oudh ; south, Bandhugarh (Banda.) Its Sarkars arc Allahabad, Benares, Jaunpur, Chunarah, Kalinjar, Khura,J Manikpur, and [nine] others, 16 Sarkars^ comprising 247 maJials. The revenue of this province is 37 kror t 60 lac, and 61 thousand dam (Rs. 9,401,525-) * Two kinds of cotton cloth mentioned in Ain i. 95. t The Kaimur range (Ain. n. 157 //.) J Korarah (Coni/i] in Fatehpur District. (Ain* ii. 167.) The Ain mentions ten Sar/:ars, viz., the above seven and three others Ghazipur, Bhath-khora, and Karra, (for the last see Imp. titis. vin. 48.) Under Akbar the province had 10 Safkars, 177 mahals, and a revenue of Rs. 5,310,695 79. (Ain. ii. 160). IV. OUDH The Choice Province of Oudh. OUDH is a large and ancient town. In Hindu books it is called Ajodhya, the birth-place of king Ramchand. His building a bridge over the ocean, his going to Lanka (Ceylon) with a countless host of monkeys and bears, his slaying Ravan (the king of that country), and his recovery of his wife (who was preserved chaste and pure during her captivity under Ravan,) are well-known. The history, Rtunayan, is an account of his strange and wonderful deeds. As this city was the birth-place of king Ramchand, it is held to be one of the holiest places. One kos from it, the river Ghaghar (Gogra) having united with the river Saraju,* passes by the foot of the fort [of Ajodhya.] In the outskirts of the city, they sift dust and get gold. In the town are the tombs of Shish (Seth), the son of Lord Adam (the peace of God be on him ! ) and Ayub (Job), the prophet, both places of pilgri- mage to Muhammadans. At Ratwipur is extant the tomb of KAlUK,f who at Benares in the time of Sultan Sikandar Lodi, carvad out a path from the material city to the spiritual capital through excess of devotion to the Lord of Slaves, (i. e. y died.) Many mysteries of spiritual knowledge and subtle secrets of theological truth, expressed in Hindi verses, remain as his memorial among many people, high and low alike. * The Ain has by mistake ^ivcn " the Sai. " (ii. 171) t Kabir lived between 1380 and 1420 A. ]). Hunter says that his tomb is situated at Magha?) a village in Gorakhpur District, 26.42 N. 83.11 E. (7. G. ix. 139.) Oudh Muhammad- an shrines Kabir's tomb KHULASAT: OUDH Bahraicb Tombs Mint Merchan- dise BAHRAICII is a large [27. &] and old town on the bank of the river Saraju. Its suburbs are charming. Here are the tombs of Salar Masaud *, a relative of Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni) and Rajab Salar,t (the brother of Sultan Ghiasu-d-din Tughlaq Shah and the father of Sultan Firuz Shah both rulers of Hin- dustan). Groups of men from distant places come on pilgrimage with golden banners, hold assemblages here, and make many presents. Near the city is the village of Dokon which has for a long time been a mint for copper-coinage. From the northern mountains are brought many articles loaded on the backs of men, goats, and hill- ponies. Gold, copper, lead, musk, qutas, honey, the acid clinic (which is prepared by boiling together orange-juice and lemon), zedoary (which is called Knc/iur in Hindi), pomegranate, dry ginger, long pepper, atnber, salt, asafcetida, glass ornaments, utensils, wax, woollens, hawk, tercel, the royal white falcon, the sparrow-hawk, and other articles of the mountains come to this place to be sold ; || and at times there is a great and ceaseless crowd ; merchants from all sides come here, make purchases, and gain profit. * Salar used for Sipah-salar or General. Masaud was the son of Mahmud's sister ; he fell in a battle with the Hindus at Bahraich in 1033 A. D. and thus received the rank of a holy warrior. (Ghazi) Ain. ii. 172 n. For his life, see Elliot ii. 515 etseq. + He died in 1316 A. D. (Elliot, iii. 273.) \ Not found in Atlas. A -text reads o audik-i- Hindi, evidently a corruption. || The Ain, (ii. 172) speaks of "White and coloured cloths, amber, salt, asafoetida, ornaments, glass and earthen ware " having been carried back by the hillmen in exchange. KHULASAT : OUDH. 33 NIMKHAR* is a large and famous fort The river Gumti flows by its feet. Near it is a tank sacred to Brahma.f Within it the water boils and there is such an eddy that one cannot sink in it. Whatever is thrown into it, is cast out. It is regarded as a great shrine. [There were many sacred] books of the Hindus, which, owing to the changes of the revolving heavens, the vicissitudes of time, and revolutions, turned their faces towards non-existence. Learned devotees, by reason of their illumination of mind and excess of spiritual information, bring these books into manifesta- tion anew on the bank of this tank and thus confer favour on the men of the world. In the neighbourhood there is a tank, the source of a good stream, one yard broad and four fingers deep, that mixes with the river Godi (Gumti). Brahmans versed in the Vedas read charms and perform worship here. By the power of the Ail-Powerful, [28. a.} the figure of Mahadeva suddenly becomes manifest on the sand, and men wonder at it ; it quickly disappears. If anybody throws rice and other things into it, no trace of them remains. Near it is a place named Charmati ; J at the Holi festival, torches of fire blaze of themselves and increase the wonder [of spectators]. LUCKNOW is a large town on the bank of the river Gumti. Shaikh Mina, whom people regard as a Sacred tank Nimkhar sacred tank Luc now * A town in Sitapur District, 20 miles from Sitapur, and *a place of great sanctity, with numerous tanks and temples 3 (/. G. x. 336). t Named Brahmdwart-kund in the Ain. \ Spelt Chardmiti in the Ain (ii. 173). I could not find any such place near Nimkhar in Atlas, sheet 68. The Imperial Gazetteer (viii. 505) quotes the Ain. 34 KHULASAT: OUDH. Bilgram Rice Rivers Extent saint, reposes here. Surajkund is a holy place ; people resort to it from distances. The town of BlLGRAM has a pleasant climate. Many people of this place are intelligent and skilled in music. There is a well here, the water of which, when drunk for 40 days running, increases knowledge and beauty of appearance. In short, all over this province, the climate is pleasant, flowers and fruits are plentiful, and cultivation is excellent ; especially the varieties of rice named Sukhdas, Badrahkir, and Jhanuah * are unparalleled in whiteness, freshness, fragrance, and deliciousness. The Shati rice is here sown three months earlier than in other parts of Hindustan. At the commencement of the dry season, the rivers are in flood, and the water covers the land. As the water rises, the stem of the Shali also grows longer. If the flood takes place before the grain has been formed, the Shali yields no harvest, Wild buffaloes are plentiful. When the plains and deserts become covered with water, the wild beasts come to the human habitations and men have the pleasure of hunting many kinds [of game]. The principal rivers are the Saraju, the Ghaghar, the Sai, the Gumti, and the Rudi (Rapti ?). The length of the province from the Sarlear of Gorakhpur to Kanauj is 130 kos^ and its breadth from the northern mountains to Sadhur| (a dependency of Allahabad) is 115 kos. East of it lies the province of * The Am (ii. 171) gives Sukhdas, Madkhar, Jhanwah.' But in * the statistics of the prices of certain articles ; (i. 62), the Sukhdas and Jinjiu only are mentioned. + 135 koS) according, to Am. t The Ain (ii. 170) narnes it Sidhpur. Jarrett has failed to trace it. But Elliot (ii. 534) mentions a Saddahur, the same as Siddhaur\ a town in Bara Banki District in Oudh. (7, Cr, xii, 473,) KIIULASAT: BIHAR, 35 Bihar ; west, Kanauj ; north, the mountains [of Hima laya]; south, Manikpur. The Barbara are Oudh, Gorakhpur, Bahraich, Khairabad, Lakhnau, five Sar- Jcars, comprising 197 mahals. The revenue of the , I Revenue province is 26 kror, 45 lac, and 40 thousand dam* (Rs, 6,613,500). V. BIHAR. The Province of Eternal Spring, f Bihar or Patna. PATNA, the capital of this province, is a large town on the bank of the river Ganges. Most of the houses are covered with tiles, which are called Khaprad in the language of this country. Thirty Jcos south of this city stands the shrine of (java - GAYA, on the skirt of the hills. Hindus, [28. 6.] having come from distances, make offerings to the souls of departed ancestors. Especially during the 40 days when the Sun remains in the Sign of Sagittarius, many men resort to this place and please the souls of their ancestors by reading spells an making offerings of grains and water (pinda). And they regard this as a deed of piety and merit on their own part and the cause of the redemption of the dead. Near it is the quarry J of a stone resembling marble. Ornaments are made of it. Good paper is also manufactured here. * In Akbar's time it had the same five Sarkars^ but 133 mahals, and a revenue of Ks. 5,043,954-4 as. (Ain. ii. 173)- t This epithet is used for the sake of a pun, the Persian word for Spring being bahar. J The Ain, (ii, 152) says, ' In the Sarkar of Behar, near the village of Raj gar.' 36 KHULASAT: BIHAR. Monghyr. In the district of MONGHYR a stone-wall has been built from the river Ganges to the hill. This is regarded as the boundary of Bengal. In this district, on the skirt of the hill, there is a place named the Jharkhand* Baid anath ^ ^ a ^'j na ^ (Baidyanath), sacred to Mahadeva. Here a miracle. miraculous manifestation puzzles those who behold only the outside of things. That is to say, in this temple there is a peepul tree, of which nobody knows the origin. If any one of the attendants of the temple is in need of the money necessary for his expenses, he abstains from food and drink,*)- sits under the tree, and offers prayers to Mahadeva for the fulfilment of his desire. After two or three days, the tree puts forth a leaf, covered with lines in the Hindi character, written by an invisible pen, and containing an order on a certain inhabitant of any of the parts of the world for the pay- ment of a certain sum to the person who had prayed for it. Although his residence may be 500 leagues [from Baidyanath], the names of that man and of his children, wife, father, and grandfather, his quarter, country, home, and other correct details about him are known from the writing on the leaf. The high-priest, writing agreeably to it on a separate piece of paper, gives [it to that attendant of the temple]. This is called the hundi (cheque) of Baijnath. The suppliant, having taken this cheque, goes to the place named on it, according to the directions contained in it. The man upon whom the cheque has been drawn, pays the money without attempting evasion or guile. A Brahman once brought a hundi of Baijnath to the very writer of this book, and he, knowing it to be a bringer of good fortune, paid the money and satisfied the Brahman. * The Ain, (i. 340) identifies ///<2r/ i tev/ xvith Chota Nagpur. There is a class of Brahmans named Jharkhandi. t That is, he sits dharma,~z. practice of extortionate Brahmans, which has fyeen made an offence by the Indian Penal Code. KHULASAT: BIHAR. 37 More wonderful than this is a cave at this holy place. [29. a.] The high-priest enters Into the cave once a year, on the day of the Shiva-brata* and, having brought some earth out of it, gives a little to each of the ministers of the temple. Through the power of the Truly Powerful, this earth becomes turned into gold, in proportion to the degree of merit of each man., TlRHUT has long been a seat of learning and a centre of Hindu culture. Its climate is excellent. The curd of this place remains unchanged and pleasant to the taste for one month. If any milkman adulterates his milk with water, some calamity from the invisible world visits him. Its buffaloes are so strong that the tiger cannot hunt them. In the rainy reason, owing to the excess of water, the deer, the elk, and the tiger come down together to inhabited places, and men have the pleasure of hunting. In the district of CliAMPARAN, they sow the seed of the vetch wdsh without ploughing the soil, and it grows without the labour of cultivation. The long pepper grows abundantly in its jungles. RoiiTAS is a fort on the summit of a lofty hill difficult of access. Its circumference is 14 kos. Culti- vation takes place here ; and there are many gushing fountains. Water is everywhere obtained on digging 4 yards. In the rainy season, more than 200 lakes of water are formed and the water-falls delight the eye and the ear. In short, in this province the summer is very hot. The winter is very temperate ; in less than two months [warm quilted] cotton tunics cease to be necessary, The rainy season lasts for six months. The land continues green and moist all the year round, owing to Another miracle Tirhut Champaran Rohtas Climate * Shiva-ratrii the Night of Shiva, a Hindu holy day. KHULASAT: BIHAR, Agriculture Fruits Cuttle Manufacture! Rivers :\ Sone the abundance of rivers. The wind does not blow violently ; dust-storms do not rise. Agriculture is excellent ; especially the Shali rice is unparalleled for goodness and excellence. Poor men consume a grain named Khcsari, which resembles matar (peas) and causes sickness. Sugar-cane grows plentifully and well. Betel-leaf, especially the maghi variety, is very delicate, beautiful in colour, flawless,* fragrant, and sweet to the taste. Fruits are plentiful ; the jack-fruit in particular grows so large that a man can carry one with difficulty. The muchkand'f is a flower like the dhatura flower and very fragrant ; it is not found elsewhere. Milk is very good and cheap. Horses and camels are less procur- able. Elephants are good and numerous. The castrated Barbary goats [of this province] are good and so fat that they can hardly walk [29. #.] ; people carry them on charpoys (litters). Its parrots and game-cocks are famous. Many kinds of game enhance pleasure. Various kinds of cloth are woven and articles of gilt glass manufactured here. There are many rivers here, but the largest of them is the Ganges. The Son comes from the south. Its source and those of the Johila I and the Narbada bubble * The Ain, (ii. 151) reads k thin in texture. 5 liut A-text reads <V -/<"'>//, 'without cracks,' which has been adopted above. t Sanskrit muihakunJa. I have, however, seen this flower blooming in North Bengal. Its petals are thicker and more widely separated at the fringe than those of the dhatura ; but in other respects the resemblance is striking. \ The Ain, (ii. 150) has, "The head-springs of these* rivers, the Son, the Narbada, and the Johila bubble up from a single reed-bed in the neighbourhood of Garha." In the A-text Johila is spelt as Chala. T\& Johila is a tributary on the left bank of the Son in the upper portion of its course (/. 6\, xiii. 52*) Garha is a town in Jubbalpur Dist., and the ancient capital of the Gond dynasty of Garha Mandla. (7. G. v. 12,) JCHULASAT : BIHAR. 39 up from one bush of reeds (bamboos) near Garha. The Narbada flows towards the Deccan. The Son and the Johila, having come in this direction, unite with the Ganges. The Saraju t having come from the mountains of the north, falls into the Ganges near Maner.* The Gandak, too, comes from the northern mountains and mingles with the Ganges at Hajipur ; whosoever drinks its water gets the goitre, which gradually becomes as big as the cocoanut, and is called joghod\ especially in the case of children. For forty Jcos [along the course] of this riverj the salgram is found. It is a black stone, considered to be one of the manifestations of the Deity. It is of many kinds, each of which goes by a different name and is worshipped. The Karamnasa, having come from the southern mountains, falls into the Ganges at the ford of Chausa. Its water is considered bad ; at the time of crossing this river, people take care that no drop of its water may touch their body. The Pu.npun, coming from the southern hills, joins the Ganges near Patna. It is said that up to the city of Patna 72 navigable rivers, flowing from the north and the south, fall into the Ganges. The smaller streams are countless. The length of this province from Garhi to Rohtas is l2O/t'os; its breadth from Tirhut to the northern mountains is no kos. Eastwards lies Bengal, west- wards Allahabad and Oudh, in the north and south * The Ain has "The Son... joins the Ganges near Maner." Our text is wrong, because the Sarju (Gogra) falls into the Ganges near Chapra and not 'near Maner/ (/. G. v. 139.) tin Bihar it is called ghogha, \ The Ain says this of the Son, but Jarrett's note mentions the Gandak. Teliagarhi) a pass in the Sonthal Parganahs, between the Rajmahal hills and the Ganges, (/. G. xiii. 236.) Saraju Gandak Kararanasa Punpun Extent KHULASAT: BENGAL. lofty hills. Its Sarkars are Hajipur, Mungirj Champaran, Saran, Tirhut, Rohtas, and others, eight divisions comprising 240 mahals. The revenue of the province is 38 kror, 7 lac, and 30 thousand dam* (Rs. 9,518,250.) Revenue VI. BENGAL. The excellent Province of Bengal, The seat of government of this province is Dhaka (Dacca) or Jahangir-nagar, which is very spacious. It is beautifully and elegantly inhabited for some kos. The commodities and products of the seven climes [30. a.] are found here. Men of every race and country live in it. The original name of this country was Bang. As the kings of former days constructed embankments 20 yards broad and 10 yards high throughout the province in order to keep out the excessive [flood of ] water, and named them a/*, by the combination [of these two terms] it came to be called Bangala in the current speech of the world. The summer here is almost temperate and the winter mild, short, and moderate. It begins to rain at the commencement of the Sun's journey through the Taurus, and the rainy season lasts 6 months ; the water covers the land, but the embankments stand above it. The principal cultivation is rice ; and there are so many varieties of it that if one grain of each were ' * The Ain* (ii. 153) gives seven Sarkars (viz., Behar in addition to the above-mentioned six), 200 mahals, and a revenue of Rs. 5, 547,985-1-3. The eighth Sarkar was Patna. tFrom Sanskrit #//', a ridge of earth. (A in. ii. 120 n.} The word is now applied in Bengal to the low ridges, (about a cubit in breadth and a foot in height,) which divide fields, Dacca Derivation of Bengal Climate Agriculture KHULASAT: BENGAL. taken they would fill a big pitcher. In the same plot of land they sow and reap rice thrice [in the year] and very little is lost. As the water rises, [the stalk] grows taller and the ears of corn do not get under the water ; so much so that men who know have seen ears of corn with [stems] 60 cubits in length. The customs of zabti* and ykalla-bakkshi do not prevail here. The rent due is collected in this way : the cultivator for eight months in the year pays rent pie by pie (by instal- ments), and he is habitually submissive [to the landlord.] The staple food is rice and fish ; wheat, barley, and other grains are not to the taste of the people. Nay more, they have not even the custom of eating bread. Having cooked brinjals, herbs, and lemon together, they keep it in cold water and eat it the next day. It is very delicious when mixed with salt. They carry it to distant places and sell it at a high price. Flowers and fruits are numerous. The betel-nutf grown here is so good that the mouth is dyed red on chewing it. Diamonds, emeralds, jaspers, and rubies come in plenty from the ports. Houses are built of reeds (bamboos) ; and some are so well made that a single one costs five thousand Rupees ; and they last a long time. Some mattresses are so finely woven that they look nicer than silk. They also make mattresses which are called 8itaL-pati,+ In this country they travel in boats, especially in the Rent system Staple food Bamboo houses mattresses * Zabti has been -interpreted by Jarre tt as (i) the subjection of rent-free lands to assessment, (in Bengal) and (2) charging crops at special rates of revenue, (in Bihar) AUL (n. 153^.) GhaMi- bakkshi means the division of gram between the government and the husbandman. Ain. (11. 122, and 338 .} t Noakhah is famous far it. \ Lit. l the cold mattress.' KHULASAT: BEN-GAL. conveyances 'Eunuchs 'Gaur Sylhet rainy season. In summer people travel in the which is such that one can comfortably sit, stretch himself at full length, or sleep within it while travelling. Over it they spread a covering for keeping out heat or rain.f Riding on elephants is pleasant. The people seldom ride horses. In this country the direction of affairs is entrusted to women. J Men and women go naked. Eunuchs come largely from this country and they are of three kinds : the first is called Sandali and also AUaKi$ * * the second is called Badami, * * and the third is named Kaftiri, * * In every animal except man haughtiness abates when it is castrated ; but in man it increases, so much so that the ill-temper and harshness of speech of eunuchs have become proverbial. LAKHNAUTI (Gaun is an old town, which was the first capital of this province. When the Emperor Humayun graciously came here he renamed it Jinnatahad, as its air was pleasant; It has a strong fort. East of it lies a large lake ;j| if its embankment were to break, the city would be covered with water. The province of SVLIIET is situated within the mountains. Its shields are famous. The fruit called sang-tatak,*\\ resembling the orange in colour but * The Am, (ii. 122) names it Sukhasan, 'comfortable seat.' In A-text, the word may also be read as Singasan^ 'throne.' It is a palanquin with a crescent-shaped roof. t The two texts are corrupt. The A-text reads, Bar faraz an jehat tabish o barish guzin sair tanahi bar sar bad* 1 he last five words may also be translated as 'travelling on camels alone is unsuit able.' The B-text reads I after gttxin y ''bazibai bar sazatidj that ia, *they make [sukhasans] beautifully.' In the translation adopted here 1 have partly followed the Ain (ii. 122). J The B-text has 'business is chiefly transacted by speech.' A few words have been omitted here in the translation. || Named in Ain, (ii. 123,) Chhatiapatia. If Jarrett identifies it with the citrus detumana, which is called Balavi Icbu in Bengal. (Ain ii. 124 n). KHULASAT : BENGAL.. 43 larger and very sweet, the China root,* and aloes wood grow in plenty. At the end of the rains they cut this tree and fell it to the ground. After some time, having guessed its greenness or maturity, they convey it f [to the market.} In this province they make many eunuchs. In the Sarkar of Gkoragkat\ silk and jute cloth, the Ghoraghat kunt horse (hill ponies), and geldings are plentiful, and Indian fruits abundant. The Sarkar oj Bagla on the Hu^hli sea-coast is well known. There is a forest in the environs of its fort. From the first of every lunar month to the I4th day y the river is filled with waves and they swell like mountains and present a wonderful spectacle. From the I5th day to the end of the month, the waves decrease little [by little.] Near it|| is KAMRUP, also called Kaonm. The beauty of the women of this place is very great ; their magic, enchantment, and use of spells and jugglery are greater than one can imagine. Strange stories a>ie told about them, such as the following. By the force of m.igic they build houses, of which the pillars and ceiling are made of men. These men remain alive, but have not the power of breathing and moving. By the power of magic they also turn men into quadrupeds and birds, so that these men get tails and ears like those Kanmip Female soivery * The Smilax glabra (Ibid.} t The Ain has, 'They give them [the trees] various names according to their greenness or maturity' (n. 125.) | In Rennell's Bengal Atlas, Sheet 6 T Ghoraghat is plated 27 m. N. N. W. of Bogra. This Satkar included the Kungpuiv Dinajpur, and (part of) Bogra Districts. 8 Hughli, including the Sundarbanb. || In the A in, which our author copies closely HI this pail, Kamrup comes just after Kuch Bihar. The phutbe 'near it' must not, therefore, be taken literally here. "44 KHULASAT : BENGAL, Wonderful trees. of beasts. They conquer the heart of whomsoever they like and bring him under their command. They can foretell the movement or repose [of the planets] of heavens, the dearth or cheapness of grains, the length or shortness of the life of any one. [31. a\ Cutting open the womb of a woman of full pregnancy, they take out the child and read its future. * In this territory there is a wonderful tree ; whenever it is pierced a sweet liquid drops from it, and makes the thirsty satiated with water. There is another tree which yields as fruit both the mango and the grape.f In this province there is a flowering plantj which will not wither for more than two months after being uprooted, nor lose its colour and smell. They make necklaces of it. Near this province lies ASSAM, which is very spa- cious. When any of its rulers dies, his favourites, both male and female, bury themselves alive with him. If any one dies leaving no heir behind him, they bury all his property with him. The country of MAIIACHIN is situated near it. | China From the city of Khan BaligJi, its capital, to the ocean, for the distance of 40 stages, a canal has been cut, the two sides of which have been embanked with stone Assam * The Ain has 'They divine somewhat as to the future" (ii. 127.) t This sentence is based on our author's misconception of the Aift t which says, 'They have also a mango tree that ha 6 ; no trunk ; it trails like a climbing vine over a tree, and produce^ fruit.' (ii. 117). J Probably the Tulsi, the trunk of which is cut into beads, which are strung together and worn by the Vaishnavs. S Lit., the Greater China. Khan Bali^h was corrupted into Camvalo, which Chaucer mistook for the name of a person : "The other was yclept Camballo" (Squares Talc.) KHULASAT: BENGAL. 45 and lime. King Alexander of Roum * advanced from this country to that. Having traversed the whole of that country, he came [back] by way of the river. By order of King Alexander, eminently wise philosophers have placed on the sea-shore a talismanic human hand, which, whenever a ship comes in that direction, forbids it by a gesture, [as if to say] ' Don't come this way T f In the south-east there is a large country named Arracan ; the port of Chatgaon lies within it. Ele phants abound ; white elephants are also found. Horses, camels, and donkeys J are high-priced. Cows and buffaloes are not found at all. There is an animal, piebald and parti-coloured which shares the character- istics of both buffalo and cow. Its milk is drunk. The religion of its inhabitants is different from Hinduism and Islam alike. They marry their own sisters, even twin- born sisters, and abstain only from marrying their own mothers. They call their men of religion and piety Walt and never act contrary to their good counsels. [31 .] It is their custom to station the females of warriors at the court, the men themselves not having to make their obeisance.il Most of the people are black- complexioned and beardless. Near it is a country named Ckin?\ One side of this * Alexander of Macedon advanced from Tartary to India, and not as stated above. t This traveller's tale finds no mention in the sober pages of Abul Fazl, J The A-text reads asp o shutar o khur giran. This goes against the reading proposed by Jarrett (A in li. i 19), 'hordes are scarce and of small size.' The A-text reads Ra-wali, by wrongly repeating a previous suffix ra. |] I have followed the Ain here. In the A-text, the passage mayalbo be translated as * It is their custom to have female warriors present at the Court, and the men have to bow [to them.]' 1 The Ain gives its alternative name Pegu (/.*., Lower Hurma.) Arracari Cattle Strange religion Pegu 4 6 KHULASAT : BENGAL. Rivers Extent Revenue country is dry* and contains mines of ruby, diamond, gold, silver, naptha, and sulphur. The inhabitants of this land fight with the tribe of Magh (Burmese) for the sake of the mines. In short, this country (Bengal) is extremely spacious. The largest of its rivers is the Ganges in praise of which volumes have been written. The second river is the Brahmaputra ; it issues from the mountains of Kuch [Bihar], then waters the Sarkar of Bazuha r f and after- wards enters into the ocean. The length of this province from the port of Chatgaon to Garhi is 40x3 kos ; its breadth from the north to the limits of the Saikar ol Madaran is 200 kos. East of it lies the ocean, west the province of Bihar, north and south high hilks. Its Sarkars are Tandah, Fathabad, Jinnatabad, Bagla, Tajpur, Pinjarah, Barbakabad, Bazuha, Sonargaon, Sylhet, Chatgaon, Shartfabad, Sulaitnanabad, Ghora- ghat, Madaran, and others, 27 Sarkars, comprising 1109 mahals. Its revenue is 46 kror and 29 lac damsj (Rs. 11,572,500,) with 4,200 guns and 4400 boats. * Jarrett reads Arab an in the place of dry. t Mymensing-Bogra, (Ain i. 520 n.) J The Ain (ii. 129) gives 24 sarkars^ 787 mahals, and a revenue of Ks. 14,961, 482-15-7, with 4260 guns and 4400 boats, for Bengal and Orissa taken together. The Sarkars, in addition to the 15 named above, are Mahmudabad, Khalifatabad, Purniyah, Satgaon, Jalesar, Bhadrak, Katak, Kalang Drindpat, and Raj Mahandrah, of which the last five belong to Orissa. In the A-text Pinjatah may also be read as Hijrak. VII. ORISSA. The Happy Province of Orissa. It has 29* pucca forts. Its climate is good. The rainy season lasts eight months, winter three months, and summer one month. Fruits and flowers are plentiful, especially the Nasrin^ (which is very delicate and fragrant) and the Keora/i. Betel-leaves of many varieties are grown. Paddy is the grain chiefly cultivated. The people eat rice, fish, brinjals, and herbs. They cook in the night, lay the food aside, and eat it the next day. They write books on palm-leaves with an iron pen, which is held in the clenched fist ; paper and ink are rarely used, [32. a.] Eunuchs are also made in this country, and good cloth is manufactured. Bargaining takes place through the medium of the kauri, which is a small white shell of the ocean. Four of these make one ganda.\ In the southern direction, on the shore of the ocean, within the city of Purushottampur (Puri), stands the temple of fagannath, which was built by King Indra- dyumna. Its foundation is dated more than four thousand years ago. Near it is a temple dedicated to the Sun. The revenue of this kingdom for 12 years was spent in constructing it. Us walls are 150 cubits high and 19 cubits thick. It has three doors. Intelligent and fastidious connoisseurs are filled with wonder on seeing it. * The Ain gives 129 forts, (ii. 120) t Hindi name, seoti. \kganda is one-twentieth of an anna. At Kanarak. Manners of the people Temples at Jagannath and Kanarak KHULASAT : ORISSA. Tehngana Extent Revenue Deogiri DauUtabad Near it is a country Tana Raj* in which the men encrust their bodies with sandal [rubbings] and wear ornaments like women, while the women do not cover their body excepting the private parts. Their coverings are mostly made of the leaves of trees. A woman keeps a husband for a week only. * * [Two lines of the text omitted in the translation.] The length of this province is 120 kos y and its breadth $00 kos. Its Sarkars are Jalesar, Bhadrak, Katak, Kalinga, Rajmahendri, and others, in all 15 Sarkars comprising 233 rnahals ; and its revenue is 40 kror, 41 lac, and 5 thousand damf (Rs. 10,102,625.) VIII. AURANGABAD. The Province of Aurangabad, of Auspicious Foundation. It is stated in some histories that fin former times this town was celebrated under the name of Dharana- gari. Then it became famous as Deogir. When Sultan Muhammad Fakhru-d-din Jauna, king of Delhi, brought the whole kingdom of Deccan under his rule, he gave the name of Daulatabad \\ to the fort of Deogir, and * This may be a mistake for Raj-mandria, (Raj Mahendri-) t The Ain assigns to Grissa five Sarkars (the same as here), 99 Mahals, and a revenue of Rs, 3,143,315-15-2, which are included in the area and revenue of Bengal. I It was surnarned Khujista-baniad. (Elliot, vii. 256.) The A -text reads Dharanagari, Elliot (vii. 41) calls it Deogir or Dharagar. It must not be confounded with Dhar, the capital of Raja Bhoj, which is situated in Malwa. (Ain. ii. 197.) || Daulatabad is TO miles north-west of Aurangabad. It was made a capital by Muhammad Tughlaq in 1338 A.D. Aurangabad was the capital of a Mughal province comprising much of the territory of the old kingdom of Ahmadnagar. KIIULASAT : AURANGABAD. 49 made it his capital. After Sultan Muhammad, the whole of this country passed out of the possession of the kings of Delhi. Three hundred years afterwards, in the reign of the Emperor Shah Jahan, the fort of Daulatabad was re-captured ( 1632 A. D.) The Emperor Aurangzib Alamgir, [32. />] when a prince, on being appointed Governor of the Deccan, founded the city of AURANGABAD near the above-mentioned | Aurangabad fort at a place which was called the village of KlllKKI* It is undoubtedly a city of great extent and a town of great spaciousness. Its air is always mild like the air of Paradise and delights the spirit and the heart (Timate like the spring of April. Its wind, like the wind of spring, is pleasant atid cheering. Its air, like intoxi- cating wine, is stimulating and comforting. Every crop of this place, refreshes the world like the rose. Every morning of it is a means of embellishment to spring. Its winter has the breeze of New Year's Day. Its summer puts forth the splendour of spring. For four months, from the commencement of [the Sun's journey in] the Gemini to ("his course in] the Virgo, the clouds shower clown rain. Every kind of fruit grows in perfect sweetness. But some fruits are of such species as do not sjrow in other countries. Various kinds of fresh o flowers grow in gardens and woods, too many to be counted. The grains are so good and so plentiful that they always maintain a low price. Many kinds of precious stuffs, and lustrous jewels of high price-, can be procured in this city. Its inhabitants, who live happily and well, as lords of fortune and riches and masters of wealth and pomp, its beautiful women, versed in the | * The Imperial Gazetteer it. 387) says that the town was founded by Malik Am I jar in 1610, and first named }\irki. Auran^/.ib built a palace and the mausoleum of his wife, and made it the capital of a subaJi. 7 KHULASAT : BERAR, "Extent Revenue Village officers arts of blandishment, and ravishing the heart with their moon-like foreheads, all these cannot be adequately described in writing. The length of the province is 150 kos, and its breadth \ookos. It has eight sarkars, comprising So mahals. Its revenue is 51 kror, 62 lac, and So thousand dam* (Rs, 12, 907,000.) IX. BERAR. The Province of Berar This country lies between two mountains In the south. Its climate and agriculture are good. In this country the Chaudhuii is called Deshniukh, the Qanongo is called Dcshfandc, the Mukaddam is called Patcl, and the Patwari is called Kalkarni* Wild elephants abound. Rawgarh\ is a stone fort on a hillock, Its three sides are enclosed by two streams. Kcrla\\ is a stone- fort on a plain. In the middle of [ 33. a. ] it is a hillock, which they worship. Four kos from it is a well, which turns into stone the bone of any animal that falls into eluded in the Mughal Empire after Akbar's time. t Mitktidtlam^ chief village revenue officer ; Patwari) land steward ; Chaudhiiri) headman of a caste or village ; QanongO) that officer tn each distiict who is acquainted with its customs and land-tenure. (Ain> ii. 45-47.) The A-text reads Kar-karni. \ The A-text reads Mtir^arh. Ramgarh is a town in Mandla Dist., C. P., situtated on a hillock above the Burhner river. (/. G. xi. 447.) The A-texl has do ritd ; but the Ain (ii. 230) gives forests. || The Gond kingdom of ivherla had its centre at Betul, C. P. (/. 329.) KHULASAT: BEKAR. it. Near Melgarh * there is a spring of water which petrifies wood and other things that are thrown into it. At Biragarh f there is a diamond mine ; figured cloths are well woven here. At Indorc and Narnal \ there are mines of steel and other metals. Charming utensils of stone are carved here, A wonderful cock is found here, with bone and blood of a black colour. Lonar is a very holy place which is (alsc/i called Vishnu Gaya. It has a very deep tank, one kos square and fed by a spring ; a high mountain surrounds it. It contains brackish water ; and the materials for making glass, soap, and saltpetre come out of it and yield a large revenue. Monkeys are numerous in this country. There are many rivers in this province, the greatest being Gang Gautami, also called GUDAVARI. The Ganges of Hindustan is sacred to Mahadeva, but this river is sacred to Gautam, who was a famous saint (Riski.) They relate wonderful legends about [ it j and do it great worship. It flows from the mountain of Sakiya near Trimbak,^ and passing through the country of Ahmadnagar reaches Bcrar, [then] (lows into Telin- gana, and falls into the sea on that side. When the planet Jupiter enters the sing of Leo, people come here from distances and form a large gathering, which is famous in all parts of the kingdom. Among the other rivers are the 7W/!| and the 1 apti, both of which are __ _ _ _ I * Imp. Gaz. mentions Md^hat, a tahik in Elhchpur Dist. (ix. 403.) t This is Wairagirh, a village: in Chanda Dist., 20.25 N. 80.7 E "Diamond and ruby mines were formerly worked'' (7 G. xni. 513.) I Narnala, a hill-fort in Akola Dist., Herar. (/. (;. x. 213.) In Nasik Dist. (Ai/i, 11. 228 ;/.) || Can it be the 7>W, which rises, like the Tapti and the Wardha, m the plateau of Muliai? The Imp. G,K (n. 329) men- tions anothei river, the 7>r^, with a somewhat similar name. Petrifying well and spring another Gava. (odavari Othei KHULASAT: BERAR. Extent Revenue. worshipped. Another river, the Purna, issues near Dewalgaon,* and one source of it issues 12 kos higher up than the source of the Tali.f Another river is the Munia,\ which rises near Deogaon (Dewalgaon.) In short, the length of this province from Batiala to Biragarh is 200 kos ; its breadth from Bidar to Hindia is 180 kos. Eastwards lies Biragarh, westwards Mahkarabad, || northwards Hindia, southwards Telin- gana. Ten sarkars comprising 200 mahals [ belong to it. ] Its revenue is 60 kror, 72 lac, and 70 thousand dam*\ (Rs. 15, 181, 750.) * * The A-text reads Nulgaon* Dewalgaon is the name of two villages in Buldana, one beiny 22 m. E. of Ajunta, the other 76. 20 E. 20.5 N. (Letts' Atlas, sheet 3.) The Dewalgaon mentioned in /. G. (iv. 235) cannot be the place intended here. t The A-text reads, o ck sar-i-an do az dah karoh balatar az chashma-i-Tali bar aid. But the Ain has, " and again the Warda issues forth ten kos higher up than the source of the Tali" (ii. 228.) \ Evidently the Murna, a tributary of the Puma, (L (J. xi. 320.) The Ain reads c Napta ?' $ Batiala or Pitalwari was a Sarkar which included Chandor (Ain.) The /. G. (in. 365) gives Chandur^ a town in Amaraoti Dist. || There is a Mvkhcir* 20.1 N. 74.24 E. in Letts' Atlas, sheet 3. The Mokher of /. G. ix. 477 could not have been meant here. ^1 Under Akbar, it had 16 Sarktm, 142 parganahs, and a revenue of Ks. 14,000,000. (Aw, ii. 231.) X. KHANDESH. The Province of Khandesh- BURHANPUR, the capital of this province, is a large city, situated on the bank * of the river Tapti. Many skilful men live in it. In its outskirts are several charming gardens ; many sandal trees and aloes and many kinds of fruits and flowers grow here. But in summer dust-storms rise. In the rainy season roses and tulips grow in plenty. The chief cultivation [ 33. b. ] is jawari. In a few places rice and paddy grow ex- cellently, and also abundance of betel-leaf. The cloths sirisaf, alfia, and bhiraun+ are well woven here. Changdeo\ is a village near which the rivers Tapti and Purna unite ; it is regarded as a very sacred place and called chakra-tirtha In short, there are many streams in this province. The greatest is the Tall, which rises between Uerar and Gondwana. The Puma also rises in the same place. The rivers Girni and Tapti unite together near Ckoprah \\ This place being regarded as great in sanctity, people from distant places come to worship here. Burhanpur. Crops. Cloth nanufacture. Rivers. * The Ain incorrectly says * three kos distant from the Tapti. 3 (ii. 223.) t Shis'if and bhiraun are named in the Ain (i. 94.) The alfia of the text may be a mistake for the ah huh of the Ain. J 21. 2 N. 76 E. (Letts* Atlas, Sheet 6). Curious derivations have been proposed for this woid by Glad win and Jarrett (Ain, ii. 224 .) I suggest the following as a more probable one : The word is Sanskrit and means a place hallowed by the descent upon it of any portion of the body of Sati cut off by Vishnu with his Jiakra or disciib. || The A-text wrongly reads Junirah. 54 KHULASAT: KHANDESH. Origin of its name Extent Revenue. This country acquired its name" of from Gharib Khan, its king. During the Khalifate of the Emperor Akbar, when the fort of Asir was won by the valiant sword of Shaikh Abu-1-Fazl and this province was presented to Prince Danial, the second son of His Majesty, it was named Dan-desh by royal command. The land-owners of this province are all Kolis,f Bhils, and Gonds. Its length from BorgaonJ near Hindia to Laling near the province of Ahmadabad is 75 kos ; its breadth from Jamod near Berar to Pal (adjoining Malwa) 50 kos, East of it lies Berar, west and north Malwa, south Jalna. It has five sarkars, comprising 1 12 mahals. Its revenue is 44 kror, 36 lac and 19 thousand iRs. 11,090,475.) * Khan-desh, a hybrid word meaning 'the country of the Khan or lord. 3 Gharib Khan's name is given as Ghizni Khan, with the title of Nasir Shah in Ain* ii. 226. Ferishta calls him Nusseer Khan (iv. 286,) and says that he received the title of Khan from the King of Gujrat and was the first of his line to assume the ensigns of royalty, (d. 1437 A.D,) There was a Ghizni Khan of Malwa, a contemporary of Nasir. (Ferishta, iv. 194.) The Ain has evidently confounded the two names together. t For the Kolis, see Ain (ii. 245 n) and Elliot (v. 4^9.) J Borcgaom, 12 m. N. of Asirgarh and 65 m. S. W. S. of Hindia. (Letts 3 , Sheet 6.) Laling, an ancient fort and the "fron- tier fortress of the Furrukhi kings," 6 m. from Dhulia, in Khandesh Dist. (/ G. iv. 281.) Jamod is in Akola Dist. (vii. 132.) There is a Pali, 28 m. S. E. E. of Hoshangabad. (Lett?, Sheet 6.) Under Akbar it had 32 mahals and a revenue of Rs. n, 382, 355-12-9 (Ain. ii. 224.) XL MALWA. Malwa, the Province of Pleasant Climate. UjJAlN is a large and old town. It was the capital of Rajah Vikramajit, whose era is current even now in Hindustan. It is said to have been very large in that age. The river Shuparma (Sipra) flows by its feet. It is regarded as a very sacred place. What a miracle that at times waves of milk flow here and men, filling pots with it, take it away and use it ! By the power of God, this miracle has been often manifested, CHANDERI is one of the large and ancient towns, and has a stone fort, 384 bazars, 360 spacious serais and 12,000 mosques. Various classes of men live in it. Numan* is a village on the bank of the river Tawa. A perennial spring of water is found here. There is also a large temple in which, if a kettle-drum is beaten, no sound comes out and nobody [outside] can hear it. MANDU is a large city, 12 kos [in circumference.] In the centre of its fort there is an octagonal tower. Formerly [ 34. a. ] for some period (1387 1526 A. D.^ it was the capital. It contains lofty buildings, monu- ments of the dead, and the tombs of the Khilji kings. It is a miracle that in summer water trickles down from the cupola of the tomb of Sultan Mahmud,f son of Sultan Hushang, and people lay bets on it.J It is said * Not identified. The Ain has "Tumun is a village on the river Betba, in which mermen are seen " (ii. 196.) The A-text reads bar saJial-i-daria-i- Tawa zindah chashma abcdar o namodar gardad. t A double mistake for 'Sultan Hushang, the father of Sultan Muhammad.' For his tomb, sec Ferishta, iv. 190. J The A-text reads o marduui bad o kardand ; the last word may be a mistake for garo kunand (lay bets.) Can it mean rain- gambling ? Ujjain, Chanderi, Mandu tomb of Sultan H ushang. KHULASAT: MALWA. Dhar Climate Crops. armed population. Rivers. that in this province there is a stone which turns into gold whatever metal touches it. In the Hindi language it is called paras* DHAR is a town which was for- merly the capital of King Bhoj and other kings of great state. In short, in this province the climate is temperate. It is seldom found necessary to wear [ padded ] cotton tunics in winter, or to cool water with saltpetre in sum- mer. The rains last four months. It inclines a little to cold and at night counterpanes have to be used. The soil of this province is a little high-lying in com- parison with other lands, and the whole of it is arable. Both crops [ of the year ] grow excellently, wheat poppy, sugar-cane, mango, melon, and grape grow well. In some places, especially in Hasilpur, the vine bears fruit twice in the year. Betel-leaf grows wonderfully well. In many forests elephants are numerous. High and low alike give their children opium to eat up to the age of three years. No person, whether a peasant, bunnia, artisan, skilled mechanic, or any other, is with- out a weapon of war. The chief rivers of this province are the Narbada, the Sarakanz, the Sind, the Betam, the Godi, and the Shuparma^ At every two kos there is a very clear and light stream, on the banks of which the willow grows wild as well as many-coloured and sweet-scented flowers, [esp.] the hyacinth. In the forests, trees and greenswards are numerous. * Sanskrit sparsha, touch. t The Ain (ii. 195) has " the Narbadah, the Sipra, the Kali Sind the Betiva, and the AW/." Jarrett identifies the Kodi with the Lorn. Retain, is Betwa ; Shuparma is Sipra (?) Godi is a tributary of the Narbadah. There are three Sind rivers in Malwa, viz.. the Sind, the Kali Sind, and the Chota Sind. In the A-text sara- kani o sind may be a mistake for Sipra o Kali Sind, which is the reading of the Ain. KHULASAT: MALWA. j The length of this province from the extreme limit Extent' of Garha * to Banswara is 240 kos ; its breadth from Chanderi to Nandurbar is 230 kos. In the east lies Bandhu (Banda), in the west Gujrat and Ajmir, in the north Narwar,f in the south Baglana. The Sarkars are Ujjain, Raisin, Chanderi, Sarangpur. Bijagarh, Mandhu, Gagron, Kobhri,J Hindia, and others, 12 Sarkars comprising 309 mahcds. Its revenue is 36 kror, 90 lac, and 70 thousand cara (Rs, 9,225,425.) XII. AJMIR. The Province of Ajmir, the abode of goodness- AJMIR is an ancient town. Near it is the fort of Ajmir the memorial of Raja Bithal, on [ 34. b ] a hillock which is difficult of access. Near the city is a fake, named Anasagar^ three kos in circumference Lake and very deep. Many aquatic animals, crocodiles, &c., iive in it. There are royal mansions on its banks. The tomb of the Illuminated Khawajah Muainu-d- Muainu-d- din Chishti is situated within the city, on the skirt of u ^- s ^ l the hills, and by the side of the lake Jkalra.** This Khawajah, the son of Ghiasu-d-din Chishti, one of the Chishti Sayyids, was born in 537 A. Ii. (1142 A. D.), at the village of Sijz, in the district of Sijistan. In his 1 5th year, his eminent father passed on to the other world. Ibrahim Qahandazi, (who was one of the * Garha Mandla. t Narwar^ a town in Gwalior State. J A mistake for Kotri Parayah (Ain. ii. 197.) The other three Sarkars are Kanauj, Mandesar and Nadarbar. In Akbar's time it had 12 Sarkars^ subdivided into 301 parganas with a revenue of Rs. 6, 017, 376. (Ain^ ii, 197) |] Imp Gaz., L 119. ^ Rajasthan, \. 802. ** A natural spring at Ajmir. (/. Cf, i. 133.) KtfULASAT: AJMIR. attendants of the Court of God), cast his eyes upon him. He felt attracted to God, and began to look out for a spiritual guide. At Harun, a dependency of Naishapur, he joined the company of Khavvajah Usman Chishti, and practised austerities. In his 2Oth year, he gathered blessings from Shaikh Abdu-1-Kadir Gilani, i. e., His Holiness Miran Mahiu-d-din. In 588 A. H. (1192 A. D,), when Sultan Shahabu-d-din Ghori conquered Hindustan, he came to Delhi and afterwards went to Ajmir for the purpose of retirement. His precious breath benefited crowds of people. He journeyed to the land of bliss on Saturday, the 6th Rajab, 630 A. H, (1233 A. D.)* His holy tomb is an object of pilgrimage to men. Three kos from Ajmir is a very large lake named PusilKAR.f Nobody can forma guess as to its depth. It is an old place of worship. In the books of the Hindus it is regarded as the guide [chief] of holy places ; it is held that if a man bathes in and walks round all other holy places on the face of the earth, but does not come to bathe in this lake, he gains no merit. CHITQR is a famous fort and [ the name of] one of the Sarkars of this province. There is an iron-mine at Gaitgarh^ a dependency of it. Mines of copper exist at Chinpnr, a place in Mandal. This fort was formerly in the possession of [ 35. a.] the Rana. The Emperor Akbar personally attended to its conquest, and after great fighting and struggle triumphed, the story of which is famous. In former times, the chiefs of this place were called Rawals ; but now for a long time Pushkar lake Chitor * The Atn, (in. 362) gives 633 A. H. (1236 A. D.) t Rajastkan, i. 792. J Atlas (Sheet 35 N. E.) gives a Gangrar, a few miles N. of Chitor, 25. 3N. 74. 4oE. Chenpuria, 25. 12 N. 74. 29E. (Atlas, Sheet 34 S. W.) The Atlas gives " copper and lead mines," 6 m, south of it. Afatidalt a town 70 m. N. E. of Udaipur. ( L G. w. 287.) KHULASAT : AJMIR. they have been called Ranas. They speak of them- selves as belonging to the clan of Gehlote, one of the descendants of Naushirwan the Just. As their ancestor dwelt in the village of Sisoda, they have become famous as Sisodia. As a Brahman* treated them [kindly in their misfortune,] they are also 'called Brahman. It is customary for the Rana to be rnavked [on the forehead] with a tilak of human blood at the time of his accession to ths seat of royal ty.f In SAMBHAR, excellent salt is manufactured. Near the city there is a large lake four kos in length and one kos in breadth. Its water is extremely briny. Within the lake there are many tracts of land like paddy- fields. After loosening the soil with the spade, they fill it to the brim with the water of this lake. In rj or 16 days, during which the land absorbs the water, all these tracts of land become full of salt. Having dug it with the spade and thrown it up on the banks, they sprinkle water ; the earth becomes separated from it, and pure salt comes out. It becomes blue, red, or white ; J several lacs of Rupees' woith are an- nually sold. The Imperial Government levies a tax on it. In this province are many deserts ; and water comes from a distance [below the surface.} Agriculture de- pends upon rain. Jawari, bajrah, and moVh are abun- dant. One-seventh or one-eighth of the crop is pakl to the Treasury. The custom of payment f of rent] in money is rare. The spring harvest is scanty. Winter is almost temperate and summer very hot in many places. The southern mountains and [some otherj The Ranas- * The Rishi Harita^ according to Tod, (1.235.) The Am (ii. 269) reads Haranj, with a variant Afarij (Maricha.) t For the origin of this custom see Rajasthan, i. 233. J " Nearly .the whole of the salt extracted is white or slightly discoloured. Some portions are blue and red.'' (/, G. xii. 188.) Sambhac salt lake. 6q KHULASAT: AJMIR. Deseits. Extent places are inaccessible. The inhabitants are Kachwaha,* Rahtor y and other Rajputs. The great haughtiness of this people is due to the desert, which has no water for leagues and leagues. This want of water prevents the Imperial forces from at all reaching the habitations of these people. The length of this province [35. &.] from Amberf to Bikanir and Jesalmir is 168 kos ; its breadth from the limits of the district of Ajmir to Banswara is 150 kos. In the east lies the metropolitan province of Akbarabad ; in the west Dipalpur in Multan ; in the north the villages belonging to Shah-Jahanabad ; in the south Gujrat Ahmadabad. The Sarkarsare Ajmir, Chitor, Rantambhar, Jodhpur, Nagor, Sirohi, and Bikanir, seven Sarkars, comprising 123 mahals. The revenue of the province is 55 kror, 53 lac, and 60 thousand dam \ (Rs. 13, 884, ooo.) Revenue. Former capitals. XIII. GUJRAT. The Pleasant Province of Gujrat Ahmadabad. From the histories of the country of Gujrat, esp,, the History of Bahadur Shah (a ruler of this coun- try), we learn that in former times its capital was Pattan\\, and for some time Champanir. When Sultan Ahmad, the son of Sultan Muhmmad, the son of Sultan Muzaffar Shah, adorned the throne as king, he in the year 812 A. H. H (1409 A. D.) built on the bank of the river Sabarmatti a strong fort, new houses, * Rajasthan, \. 93. t 5 m, i\. E. of Jaipur. t Under Akbar it had 7 Sarkars, 197 mahals, and a revenue of Rs. 7, 210,038-14-9. (Afti, ii. 271.) Tarikh-i- Bahadur Shahi^ by Sam Sultan Bahadur Gujarati. || Pattan, the Hindu capital, 746-1194 A. D. (/. G. xi. 82,) Champanir, the Muhammadan capital, 1494-1560 A, D. (ii. 333.) If A mistake for 815 A. H. (Ferishta, iv. 14.) KHULASAT; GUJRAT 6f and a spacious town, which he named Ahmadabad and made his capital. It grew up into a large town, as he reigned for 32 years and 6 months, and in the period of his kingship caused it to be well peopled. Outside it 360 places of a special kind (each of which is called a Pora/i)* became inhabited and the essentials of towns are found in every one of them. It contains a thousand mosques, monasteries, and mznats with wonderful inscriptions. In the Porah of Rasulabad is the tomb of Shah Alam Bokhari, f who enjoyed the dignity of saintship. Many men were the disciples and believers of His Holiness. In short, in this town the roofs of houses are mostly tiled, and the walls are of brick and lime ; and some have been built prudently on broad stone foundations, [In them] the walls are hollow and there are secret paths for going in, so that in time of need men can seek their safety by escaping by means of these paths. Some wealthy men having built vaults, [36.#.] cover the buildings with lime and mortar in such a way that the pure and clear rain-water enters into the cave, which has been made like a tank . It is called tankah (?) in the language of this country. They drink this water all the year round. Painters, inlayers, and other skilful workmen arrange oystei shells in such a way as to form beautiful lines. Pen-holders, small boxes, and other things are made [in this way]. Cloth of gold tissue, chirah (coloured turban), fotah (loin- band), jamahwar (flowered woollen stuff), velvet, brocade, silk-cloth, and khara (undulated silk-cloth), Ahmadabadr 1409. * A quarter of a town, having its own gateway. (Ain> ii. 240 and /. G. i. 95.) t Born 1415 died 1475 A. D., (Atn, ii. 372.) J /. G. \. 97- .. The Ain (ii, 240) has, *' Painters, seal-engravers, and other handicraftsmen are countless. They inlay mother-o'-pearl with great skill and make beautiful boxes and inkstands. " Porah Houses hollow- walls Reservoirs of rain- water. Manu- factures : Cloth KHULASAT: GUJRAT. Weapons Batwa Pattan Champanir Surat are well- woven here. They imitate various fabrics of Turkey, Europe, and Persia ; the dotki * especially, is excellently woven, and it is carried to distant lands by way of present. Swords, jaindhars, khapwah^ and bows are well-made. Lustrous jewels are bought and sold. The silver and gold of Turkey and Iraq are imported. In pleasantness of climate and availableness of good articles, it is unparalleled. Three kos from Ahmadabad is the pleasant village of Batwa, I the place of sleep of many saints, parti- cularly of Qutb-i-Alam, the father of Shah Alam Bokhari. A covering, about one cubit [square] is spread over it. Some people imagine it to be wood, some stone, some iron ; and they relate wonderful stories [about it] Pattan is an old town ; in former times it was the capital of the kings of this country. It has two strong forts, one of stone and the other of brick. In this country excellent cows are found. Champanir, a good fort on a rock half a kos high, has several gates. At one place they have dug about 60 yards and covered the top with planks, which are removed in time of danger. Sarat, the famous port, was the capital for some time. There are some other ports || in this [district.] The river Tapti flows by it, and after 7 ko* falls into the sea. Various fruits, esp., pineapples, are abundant ; many kinds of flowers are plentiful, and sweet scents of every kind are found in excellence. * In the A-text this word may he read as watani, "belonging to the country." Can it mean the country-made paper for the manufacture of which Ahmadabad has lon^ been famous? (/. G. i. 95.) * ' (Ain. i. no.) Jamdhar is Sanskrit t Two kinds of dagger. Yamadhara, death-edge. \ Hunter's spelling (/. G i. 98.) Bayley has * Batoh, a suburb of Ahmadabad' (Gujarat, 237.) The stone is described by Jarrett. (Azn, ii. 240 //.) || The Ain (ii. 243) mentions Ramie} , Khandewi, and Balsar. - KHULASAT : GUJRAT. The sect of Zoroastrians (Parsis), having come from Pars and taken up their abode here,keep up among themselves the practice of fire-worship. Between Surat and Nandurbar is an inhabited hilly region called Bag tana* The country is cultivated and has a good climate. Many kinds of fruit, esp. peach, apple, grape, pineapple, [36.^.] pomegranate, lemon, and mango, grow well. It has seven famous forts, of which Saler and Mulher* are [the most] celebrated. The chiefs are of the clan of Rathor. Bkaronch (Broach) has an excellent fort, and the river Narbada, after washing its feet, falls into the sea. Jt is a famous port. Some other portsf belong to this district Many kinds of cloth are woven here ; the alchah\ of this place is especially famous, and merchants carry it to all sides of the world. The Sarkar of Sorath (Kathiawar) was formerly a se- parate State The kings of this land hrid 50,000 cavalry and one lac of infantry, and they did not live on friendly terms with the kings of Ahmadabad. The Khan- khanan of Akbar brought this country under real subjugation. It has a length of 125 kos from the port of Ghogha to the port of Aramra, and a breadth of 72 kos from Sardhar to the port of Diu. Its climate is agreeable, and its fruits and flowers excessive. Grapes and melons also grow here. The country is in scattered tracts, and every tract has an independent ruler. Owing to the abundance of forests and the puzzling intricacy of the hills, they are of a rebellious The Parsi* Baglana Broacfi Cloth manufacture, Kathiawar Us extent * In tbe Nosari district of the Gaekwar's dominions. + The Ain (11. 243) names Kawi, Ghandhar, Bhabhut, and Bhankora. % Mentioned in Ain, i. 94. Aramraw (Letts' Atlas, Sheet 5) is 19 m. N. of Dwarka, with the Beyt Island lying east of it. Sardhar is given as Sur- dhaur* in the very centre of the peninsula, 13 m. S. S. E. of Rajkote. Jarrett has failed to identify it, though it is given both in Bayley's map and in Letts' Atlas, KHULASAT : GUJRAT, Junagath Girnar Somnath Destruction of the Yadu tribe. Death of Krishna. disposition. Junagarh is a stone fort, very strong and firm. Sultan Mahmud, * King of Gujrat, took it by force after a long struggle and built another fortress near it. Girnal (Girnar), a fort on the summit of a hill, has many springs of water, and is a very holy place. Near it the stream Bhad&r falls into the ocean, f Its fish are so delicate that they melt if kept in the sun for a while. Excellent camels and horses are found in its neighbourhood. SOMNATH is an old place of worship and is famous in all directions. It lies three kos from the sea, and there are five ports J in its territory. The stream S&rsati discharges [itself into the sea] near it ; and it, is regarded as the greatest of holy places. It is well known that about five thousand years ago, fifty-six kror of men of the tribe of Jadu sportively took to fighting with one another, between the rivers Sarsati and Haran,% and went down || [to Hell.J Two and a half ltos*k from Somnath is a very sacred place, Bhal 6a t ** where an arrow from the hand of a hunter pierced the foot of Sri Krishna, and he passed away to the next world under a peepul tree on the bank of the river Sarsati. It is called Belnir, ff and is regarded as a very sacred spot. [37. a.] * 'Mahmud i., Bigarah, 1459-1505 A. D. (Bayley's Gujarat, ch. viii.) t The A-text reads dar nazdikt-e-an rud-i-Bhadar ta daria- t-shur piwandad mahi chunan &c. The Ain (ii. 245), however, gives, "Near the village of Tunkaghosha, the river Bhadar falls &c. 3> | Named in At/i, ii. 246, Letts' Atlas, sheet 5, has Sursooty and Heerny. They fall into the sea together near Somnath. || Our author, though a Hindu, uses the conventional phrase of Moslem historians in describing the death of infidels. IT The A-text reads O dar nim karohe. \ have followed the Ain here. ** The Ain reads Bhalka Tirath (the shrine of the Arrow), The Imp. Gaz (xili 50) names it Bhat kund* ft The Ain reads Pipal-sir* KHULASAT : GUJRAt. In the town of Mul* there is a temple of Mahadeo. Every year on a certain day before the rainy season, an animal, (which is called Sakh^ in the Hindi language) becomes visible here. A little smaller than the pigeon, offensive in odour, and white and black in colour, it alights on the top of the temple, groans, wallows on the ground, and gives up the treasure of life. That day the people of the city having assembled together burn various kinds of incense ; and from the proportion of black and white colour in it \i.e , the plumage of the bird] they form their guess as to the rainfall : from blackness they infer rain and from whiteness drought. Near it is DWARKA, also called Jagat. It has a famous shrine. As Sri Krishna, coming from Mathura to this place, chose it as his abode, it is held to be a place of great sanctity. Near it is the village of Kasi*> of which the inhabitants are of the Ahir race and outside the pale of the Hindu religion. They eat food cooked by anybody and marry many wives. When a new governor arrives at this place, they exact a promise from him that no notice would be taken of the unchastity of their women, and then only do they consent to live [under him], otherwise, they emigrate and abandon their homes. Adjoining it, is a land (the Rann\ 90 kos in length. Before the rainy season, the ocean overflows and floods this country. When the rains subside, it decreases, and the land dries up and yields abundance of salt. + The A in names it Mul Mahadeo, Bayley has 'Madhopur in the perganah of Manglor.' (Gujarat, 197). Letts, Sheet 5, has Madhupoor^ 10 m. N.W. of Maungrote. t Sakh may a corruption of Suk^ a well-known bird. The Ain has Muk/i. I The Ain has, "The Kathis are numerous in this tract ; they are of the Ahir caste." For Kathis see /. G* viii, 89. 9 Shiva temple Miracle. Dwarka Aboriginal tribe. The Rann. KHULASAT : GUJRAT. Gulch. Horses of Arab breed Crops Thorny hedges. Fruits. Hunting leopards good oxen. KACH is a separate country. Its breadth [is 100 tos]* and length 250 kos. West of it lie Sind and many a desert Camels and goats are plentiful ; the Arab horses of this country are famous. It is said that once upon a time a merchant was conveying Arab horses by way of the river, when the ship was suddenly wrecked and a few of the horses reached the bank on planks and thus arrived in this country. The breed of those horses is still here. In short, in this province the climate is temperate. Much of it is desert. The chief crops wejawart and bajrah) which are the principal articles of food. The spring harvest is scanty. Wheat and other grains come from Malwa and Ajmir, and rice from the Deccan. Around crops and gardens are set thorny plants which form strong hedges. For this reason, the country is hard to travel in. On account of the abundance of trees it does not yield the pleasures of hunting. Mango and other fruit trees are so numerous that the country may well be called an orchard. From I'attan (Anhilwara) to Baroda, a 100 kos, is full of mango trees, which yield the finest fruits, some of which taste sweet even when unripe. [ 37 b ] The fig grows excellently, and the melon can be had in winter and summer alike. Grapes and roses are plenti- ful. The dmta (leopard) abounds in the desert ; it is trapped every year and trained to hunt. The oxen of this country are famous for their weight, bulk, graceful motion, and swift pace. A pair sells for more than 500 rupees. In half a day they travel 50 kosft The chief rivers of this province are the Sabarmatti^ * The A-text is wrong. The correction has been made from the Am. t The Ain (ii. 242) ascribes this feat to the oxen of Pattan. KHULASAT : GUJRAT. the Vatrak, the Mahendri^ the Narbada, the Tapti, the Sarsati, and the Haran. There are two fountains, called Jamuna-Ganga. The length of this province from Burhanpur to Dwarka is 302 kos ; its breadth from Jalor to the port of Daman is 263 kos. Eastwards lies Khandesh, west- wards Dwarka (situated on the coast), southwards the mountains border it everywhere, nothwards lie Jalor and Idar. In the south are the ports of Daman and Kambhayat The Sarkars are Ahmadabad, Pattan, Nadot, Bahronch, Baroda, Champanir, Godhra, Surath, and Sirohi, 9 Sarkars comprising 188 mahals, 13 ports, and [a revenue of] 58 kror^ 37 lac, and 90 thousand dam^ (Rs. 14,594,750). XIV. THAT HA. The Pleasure-increasing Province of Thatha. In ancient times, the capital of this country was a large town named Brakmanqbad. Its citadel had 1400 bastions, each at the distance of a tanab * [from the next one.] Then Alor\ became the capital ; many of its bastions and battlements are still to be seen. After that Diwal, now [called] THATHA and [also] I)ebal,\\ became the seat of government. It is a large town and the emporium of all things, esp., pearls and other Rivers. Extent. Revenue. Old capitals Thatha * The Vatrak falls into the Sabarmatti^ 6 m. N. of Khaira, The Mahendri (Mahinadi ?) may be the Mahi river. t Under Akbar it had 9 Sarkars^ 138 mahals, and a revenue of Rs. 10,920,557-8-0. (Ain, ii. 252.) t Lit., a chain (60 yds.) ; a measure of length. (Ain 9 ii. 62.) The A-text has the corrupt reading Adpuri. || The A-text is wrong. I have corrected it with the help of the Ain, (ii. 337.) KHULASAT : THATHA. Mines Fish the pala Sorcerers Eating the liver, articles from harbours in plenty. They take a third part of the crop from the peasants fas rent] in this country. The mines of salt and iron yield a large revenue. Six kos [from this town] is a quarry of yellow stone ; having hewn the stone into the required length or shortness, they use it in buildings. In many places, the people depend upon boats [for conveyance], and they are of many kinds. Taking the big and small ones, the boats will number four thousand. Game, wild asses, hares, the kotah pachah (hog-deer), hogs, and fish are plentiful. The staple food is rice, curd, and fish. Having dried the fish and filled boats with them, the people export them to ports and other places. They extract oil from fish [38. .] and use it in boat-[building.] There is a species of fish named Palwah* which is unparalleled in sweetness of taste and flavour. It enters into the river Sind from the ocean and is caught with nets. Nowhere else can it be found. Curd is very well made. Its taste does not change in four months. Flowers are plentiful, and fruits of many kinds, esp. the mango, grow well. Small melons are found in the desert. The SOKCKRERSf of this country are notorious in all directions. By glances and spells they take away the livers of men, especially those of children. The glance of the magician has the greatest influence upon all men at the time of eating meals. It is said that in the course of time the sorcerer acquires such power that every one at whom he looks grows insensible. [When the victim is] in that condition, he robs the liver and eats it, sharing it with his brother magicians ; and the * "The chief of the fresh-water varieties [offish] is the pala, nearly allied to the hilsa of the Ganges. The local consumption and also the export of dried fala are very large." (/. G. vii. 14.) Lit, liver-eaters. KHULASAT : THATHA. cup of the life of that unconscious man is filled to the brim, (he dies ) When the magician wishes to make anybody like himself, he gives him a bit of the liver to eat and teaches him spells. He rides on the hyena, a carnivorous animal of the woods, tames it by the might of spells, and gets news from a distance [by its help.] When he is caught, expert [witch-doctors] cut open the calf of his leg and extract a grain resembling the seed of the pomegranate. It is given as food to any one who is under the malign influence of sorcerers, and he is cured by the grace of God. These magicians know such magic and incantation that if you throw them into a river after tying a mill-stone round their neck, they do not sink ;* nor do they burn in fire. But when those who are experts in such matters wish to bring back one of them from the path of sorcery, they brand both of his temples, sprinkle his eyes with salt, and keep him suspended in a room for 40 days ; he is given food without any salt, and counter-spells are recited to him. By this process the sorcerer is made to forget his own spells, and he turns back from his wicked ways. The practitioners of witchcraft arc , mostly women ; only a few are men. I have seen with my own eyes the harm done by these godless persons, who have taken away the livers of children those tender plants of the garden of life. These godless people live in every town ; but the city ol Thatha abounds in them. Seventy kos from Thatha is Niklajft a place sacred to Durga, and situated between the north and the west, near the ocean. Owing to the difficult character of the and riding* the hyena How to cure of sorcery Durga Temple. * Compare with this the old mode of trying witches in England : "The victim being stripped naked and cross-bound was cast into a pond or river, in which it was held that it was impossible for her, if guilty, to sink." (Brand's Popular Antiquities^ 598.) t Not identified* KHULASAT : THATHA. path through the desert, the absence of water and the plundering habits of the Bhil tribe, it is hard for any one to reach this place. But some [38. .] Fakirs, esp. Sanyasis naked from head to foot, having chosen a life of hunger and thirst, reach this place and perform worship. The journey, in going and coming back, occupies more than 1 5 days and involves many hard- ships. The Sarkar of SEWISTAN (Sehwan), a dependency of this province, is on the bank of the river Sind. In this tract there is a large lake, two days' journey in length. It is called Mancfmr.* Having constructed platforms on the surface of the water, some fishermen live there and earn a livelihood by the profession of catching fish. Similarly, in the province of Kashmir also, the people construct platforms covered with earth on the surface of water. In this province from the limits of Multan and Uch to Thatha and Kiraj -Mekranf, there are high northern mountains of hard stone, where the tribe of Baluch and a few Afghans live. Southwards from Uch to Gujrat, are sandhills and the abodes of the Bhatti (to which the chief of Jesalmir belongs by birth) and other Rajput clans. From Bhakkar to Nasirpur and Amarkot live the Soda\ and Jareja tribes, and others also. Sehwan Lake * Manchur Floating houses Tribes * A large lake near the town of Sehwan. t The A-text may also be lead as Ganj-Mekran* The Am (ii. 336) has Kach and Mekran. Jarrett takes the word Kiraj as an Arab corruption of Kachh (334 n.) Elliot holds that Kiraj was situated in Kachh (i. 391.) In Walker's map, the capital of Mekran is given as Kedje^ 26 28'N 62 28'E. J The Sodah have been identified by Tod with the Sogdoi of the Greek historians. Hunter speaks of the Jareja Rajputs as the ruling race in Cutch (I. G. iv. 61) and of the Sodah tribe as "formerly the dominant race in Thar and Parkar." (xiii. 266.) KHULASAT : THATHA. The greatest river of this province is the Sind. Merchants bring goods and stuffs from Multan and Bhakkar to Thatha in boats over this river. Nay, even travellers in this country and large armies do not travel to Thatha except by way of the river. It would take less time for armies to travel by dry land in this direction ; but in that case they would have to suffer hardships from the intricate woods and scarcity of water. The length of this province from Bhakkar to Kiraj- Mekran is 250 kos ; its breadth from, the village of Badin* to the port of Laharif is 100 kos. Eastwards lies Gujrat Ahmad abad, westwards Kiraj-Mekran, northwards Bhakkar,! southwards the ocean. The Sarkars are Thatha, Sewistan, Nasirpur, and Amar- kot, four Sarkars^ comprising 58 mahals and 5 ports. The revenue of the province is 9 kror, 49 lac, and 70 thousand dam\ (Rs. 2, 374, 250) River Sind, the chief highway * On the Falaili river, 24-42 N. 68-53 E. t The Lahori Bandar of the Imp. Gaz. % The Ain has "To the north Bhakkar and Sewi ; to the south, the ocean." According to the Ain^ it had five Sarkars (Hajkan in addi- tion to the above four), 53 mahals, and a revenue of Rs. 1,655,284- i -2. Jarrett gives the amount as Rs. 165,383-13-2 ; but here is a double mistake in this ; (i) the rupee equivalent of the dam as given should be 165,384, (2) the total amount in dam is incorrectly given, as the revenues of the five Sarkars when added together amount to 66,251,393 dam (Rs. 1,656,284-13-2). Extent Revenue Multan Shaikh Bahau-d-din Zakaria : his life XV. MULTAN. The Province of Multan, the Abode of Safety. The capital, MULTAN, is an ancient town. It has a brick fort. All sorts of people live in it. Various articles of all countries are bought and sold here. Mer- chants bring horses of Arab breed from Iraq by way of Qandahar, [39. a ] and sell them in this town. The climate is almost temperate in winter ; in summer the heat is excessive. The rainy season is short. The people use a dialect * which is a mixture of the tongues of Lahor and Sind. They manufacture excellent flowered carpets and satranjis and chhint\ with figures. Within the fort is situated the place of sleep of Shaikh Bahau-d-dm Zakaria, surnamed Makhdumu 1- Alam, A lofty cupola of brick and lime has been raised over the tomb of this Manifestation of Light. This Shaikh was the son of Shaikh Wajihu d-din Muhammad bin Shaikh Kamalu-d-din AH Shah Qorishi. He was born at Kot KororJ in 565 A. H. (1169 A. D.) His illustrious father died in his infancy. The Shaikh, after busying himself in the acquisition of knowledge and the customary learning, set out on his travels. After travelling in Iran and Turan, he reached Baghdad became the disciple of Shahabu d-din Suhrawardi, and attained the dignity of becoming his successor. Shaikh [Fakhru-d-din] Iraqi and Mir Husaini received their training from him. He came from Baghdad to Multan and resided there. Many believers became his disciples and thus secured grace. He was a great friend * The Jatki or Multani, a dialect occupyiug an intermediate position between Sindhi and Panjabi (/. <7. x. 7). t A kind of cotton cloth, t 31-12 N. 7058E. KHULASAT : MULTAN. of Shaikh Faridu-d-din Ganj-i-Shakkar. They lived together for some time On the ;th of Safar, 665 A. H. (1266 A. D.), a pupil, bringing a sealed letter, sent it within by the hand of Shaikh Sadru d-din, the son of this [ Bahau-d-din. ] The Shaikh on reading it, sur- rendered his soul to God ; and from the four corners of the house came a loud voice saying "Friend is united to friend." Many very wonderful stories about his Holiness are told by the people, high and low, of this country. Shaikh Sadru-d din Arif, the son of Shaikh Bahau d-din Zakaria, passed away in the year 709 A. H. (1309 A. D.) Shaikh Ruknu-d-din (the son of Sadru-d-din), Shaikh Yusuf Kurdezi, Shaikh Musi Gilani, Shamsu-d-din Tabrizi, and many other saints repose in this fortunate city. The tomb of each of these manifestations of light is a place of pilgrimage to multitudes. Four kos south of Multan is the tomb of Sayid Zainu l-Abidin, the father of Sultan Sarwar. In sum- mer, men from all sides come on pilgrimage and form a great gathering here Forty kos west of Multan, on the skirt of the hills of Baluchistan, on the further side of the river Sind, is the place of sleep of [39. b.} SULTAN SAR- WAK.* This scion of the Sayid family, in early youth conquered the strong evil propensities by hard austerities and very rigorous devotion. Through His blessing the mirror of his heart became polished, and the night of Tombs of other saints * "Sakhi- Sarwar^ a famous Muhammadan shrine in Dera Ghazi Khan tahsil^ founded in honour of Saidi Ahmad, afterwards known as Sakhi Sarwar, the son of an immigrant from Baghdad, who settled at, Sialkot, 12 miles east of Multan, in 1220. The buildings include the mausoleum of Sakhi Sarwar himself, a monument of Baba Nanak ; the tomb of Massamat Bibi Bhai, wife of Sakhi Sarwar. The guardians of the shrine are the descendants of Sakhi Sarwar's three disciples." (/. G. xii. 145.) IO Sakhi Sarwar KHULASAT : MULTAK. Holy tombs, working miracles. his soul was illuminated by the light of the candle of spiritual knowledge, By chance a war broke out with the * tribe of Jat Kunwar. Sultan Sarwar and MJan Dhudha (his brother) gained the honour of martyrdom [by falling in this war with infidels.] Bibi Bhai, the wife of his Holiness, unable to bear the pang of separa- tion, packed up the baggage of life (/, e , died.) Mian Rana y his son, who was a little orphan, also went to the other world. They were buried at the foot of the hills, and became famous through [their tombs working miracles like] the tombs of martyrs. Through good luck,a merchant was coming from Qandahar to Multan. When he stopped near the aforesaid tomb, the leg of his camel suddenly got broken. Being too weak to carry himself the load of the camel, he made a vow to the tomb of the martyr. By the will of God, the leg of the camel was instantly set right, and the merchant, thus confirmed in his faith,, carried out his vow, and fasten- ing the load on the camel, pursued his journey. This miraculous event became well-known on all sides. Thenceforth that honoured tomb became an object of pilgrimage. Besides that [miracle, there was another:] three persons, one blind, the second leprous, and the third impotent. having resolved to devcte themselves to the tomb, prayed for the removal of their infirmities. By the grace of God, the impotent man gained virility, the leper health, and the blind man eye-sight. This became the cause of faith to numbers of men, and this wonderful manifestation [of the miracle working pro- perty of the tomb] was noised abroad. As the first glance of the aforesaid blind man fell upon a cow and a heron, all of these three men became famous under that name ; and their descendants who devoutly attend at the tomb are still called Gow-o-gulang, i, e., cow and heron. In short, vast numbers of different classes of Hereditary attendants of the tombs KHULASAT : MULTAN. men from all sides of the country and all places of the world, walk to the tomb of this Illuminated Man, discharge their vows, and pray [40. a ] for the realisation of their desires. By command of God the Giver of Life, their desires are fulfilled. At the beginning of winter, in particular, large numbers of people come from every side From the city of Multan to the tomb, a distance of more than four kos, the whole road is filled with people, and the assemblage of men in this street is too great to be adequately described In the city of Uch is the place of sleep of Shaikh /#/#/, son of Sayid Mahmud, son of Sayid Jalal Bokhari, who was celebrated under the title of Makh- dum-i~Jahanian. On the Shab-ibarat of 707 A. H. (1307 A. D.), he came into the arena of existence. He was the pupil and successor of. his illustrious father. He also received a viceregency from Shaikh Ruknu-d- din Abul Path Suhrawardi. At Delhi, having gone to Shaikh Nasiru-cl din Chiragh-i-Dihli, he acquired great learning. On Wednesday,* the Id-i-Qurban, 785 A. n. (1383 A.I).) he cast off the material form (died) Malang and Daudav\ dervishes, naked from head to foot, are his disciples in every direction, and they recite his glorious name. In the city of Pattan or Ajodhan, in the Sarkar of Dipalpur, west of Multan, is the place of sleep of Shaikh Faridu-d din Ganj-i-Shakkar. This Shaikh was the son of Jalalu-d-dinJ: Sulaiman, a descendant of Farrukh Shah Kabuli His birthplace was the hamlet of Knot Uch Pattan : tomb of FaridU'd- din, his life * Thursday, according to the Am. (iii. 369.) t Jarrett's note has "He is the founder of the Msffing^jfa*nd Jalaliya Fakirs." I have not been able to trace t|F^$flHk derviskts of the A-text. \ The Ain gives Jamalu-d-din* 76 KHULASAT : MULTAN. waft near Multan. In early youth he turned his attention to the acquisition of the usual learning. At Multan, having met with Khawajah Qutbu d din Bakhtiar Kaki, he gained much grace Having gone to Delhi at his request, he had his desire gratified to the full. Some say that with the permission of the Khawajah, he went from Multan to Qandahar and Sistan, and employed himself in gaining learning, and after that he went to Delhi for the purpose of waiting upon the Khawajah. Having practised austerities and waged war against the evil passions, he gained the victory. With the permission of the Khawajah, he came to the city of Hansi and lived there. Khawajah Qutbu-d-din, at the time of his passing away, ordered that his patched gown, staff, and other things that had come down from the- Saint, should be entrusted to Shaikh Faridu-d din That Shaikh, on hearing of the matter, came from Hansif to Delhi, [4-0 6.] received the trust, returned and fixed his abode at Pattan. Many people gained their desires from the favours which he bestowed, Inasmuch as heaps of earth were turned into sugar at his blessed glance which had the effect of alchemy, he became surnamed Ganj i-shakkar (the storehouse of sugar). On Thursday, in the month of Muharram, 667 A.H (1268 AD.),^ he bade adieu to this transitory world, in the city of Pattan. Dipalpur, j n s hort, the Sarkar of Dipalpur\ is a dependency * The Ain has Khotual. There is a Kaneewala^ I5m. N. E of Multan (Letts' sheet 12.) t The Ain (iii. 364) gives Jhansi. J The Ain (iii. 3^4) gives "the $th of Muharram, A. H. c68," (Monday, 5th Sep. 1269.) Jarrett adds "According to Ferishta, Thursday the 5th Muharram," Identical with the modern Montgomery District of the Panjab. KHULASAT : MULT AN. of this province The Wattu, Dogar, Gujar,* and oth^r tribes live here, and are notorious for their refractory and rebellious character. In the rainy season, the rivers Biah and Sutlej reach the mahals of this Sarkar and extend broad and deep for leagues together over the surface of the land, and all the parts of this terri- tory are submerged ; the deluge of Noah seems to be acted again here every year When the water subsid so many jungles spring up all over this land, owin the great moisture and dampness, that a pedestrii great difficulty in travelling. How then can a For this reason, this country is called the Lakht-ji The wicked men of this plain, owing to the assi! of the river (which flows in many streams by the lings of the inhabitants of these tracts) and the . c afforded'by the impassable jungle (which is leagues r length and breadth), become ambuscaders, highwaymen, and thieves The hand of the Imperial commanders cannot reach the chastisement and destruction of these people. In this country winter is temperate and sum- mer heat excessive In the autumn cultivation jawari is grown and in the spring wheat. Westwards of Multan, five kos on the further side of the river Chenab, is the land of the Baluchis. In that country are two chieftains : one is Dudai, and has ^o thousand horse and 50 thousand foot soldiers of his own ; the other is Hut, and commands 20 thousand wild tribes, robbers Baluchis two chiefs * For Waitu see/. G, ix. 497, and Cunningham's Dogar is a Muhammadan tribe mentioned in /. G, xi. 273 Cunningham, 8. Gujnr is a Hindu tribe. t Lit, 'a hundred thousand forests.' Hunter writes, whole interior upland consists of a desert plateau, pa: overgrown with brushwood and coarse grass, which are inter: ed at places by an impenetrable jungle, impassable alike for and horse." (7. G. ix. 492.) /8 KHULASAT : MULTAN. cavalry and 30 thousand infantry. The two are always quarrelling and fighting about boundaries By swear- ing allegiance to the Emperor and paying a fixed tribute, they hold themselves and their principalities in safety. The envoys [41 a.] of both of them are present at the seat of government, Multan, and stay there in order to carry out the commands of the Emperor and to perform ! the mandates of the provincial governor. The kingdom of Baluch is famous for its large population, rich crops of both harvests,abundant wealth, and security from thieves and robbers It is said that in the reign of Sultan AlaU- d-din the Second (1443-1451 A.D ), king of Delhi, the province of Multan passed ou: of his possession into that of the Langah family. Sultan Husain Langah, ruler of Multan, in his own reign settled the territory from Koror Kot to Dhan Kot as jagir on Malik Sohr^ab* and other Baluchis who had come to him from Kiraj-Mekran. Buffer State | But in the reign of the Emperor Akbar, the great Diwan Rajah Todar Mai made over this country abso- lutely to the Baluchis, fixed them as a strong barrierf between Hindustan and Khorasan, and thus set up a firm rampart on the confines of the two countries. Bhakkar a! South of Multan is Bhakkar\ a strong fort. In old strong fort j books [it] is named Mansurah^ The river Sind, having * "One Mullik Sohrab Duvally arrived from Mekran, engaged in the service of Hoosein Lunga, who gave over to them the coun- try lying between Kotgirvur and Dhunkote. Many other Bulochies flocked in great numbers to Mooltan,...till at length all the country lying between Setpoor and Dhunkote was occupied by Bulochies." (Ferishta, iv. 388). t Buffer States^ as they are now called. J An island fortress midway between the modern Sukkur and Rohri. The exact locality of Mansurah is doubtful. The province of which it was the capital extended from Alor to the sea. Cun- ningham locates Mansurah close to Brahmandbiid, KHtfLASAT : MOLTAN, f become one with the five rivers of the Punjab, reaches the outskirts of this fort, and separating into two streams, two-thirds of it pass by the south and one- third by the north side of the fort It is everywhere famous for its strength of fortification. It is extremely difficult for an army to lay hold of it. In this province, summer is excessive and the rains j climate scanty. Fruits grow excellently well Between Siwi (Sibi) and Bhakkar is a large desert. In the hot season the Simoom blows for three months. As the river Sind inclines every few years from the south to the north [bank alternately; and destroys the houses of the vil - lages* [by erosion], the people build their houses of wood and grass. The practice of building pucca and lasting houses is rare The length of this province from Firuzpur to | Extent Sewistan is 400 kos ; its breadth from Khatpurf" to Jesalmir is 125 kos, and from * Chandko to Kiraj- Mekran 660 kos. Eastwards it adjoins the Sarkar of Sirhind, westwards Kiraj-Mekran, northwards Shor Kot, southwards the province of Ajmir. The Sarkzrs are Multan, Dipalpur, and Bhakkar, three Sarkars comprising 96 maJials. The revenue of the province is | Revenue 24 kror, 46 lac, and r 5 thousand dam (Rs. 6,1 15,375.) [41. *.]. * The Ain (ii. 328) has "The village cultivation follows its course." t There is a Khootpur on the Ravi, 25 m. S. W. of Lahore, (Letts' sheet n.) t Here the Ain (ii. 326) reads "But since its inclusion, it measures to Khach (Gandava) and Mekran, 6fo kos? Chandko is a tract of alluvial land in Sind, on the right bank of the Indus ; chief town, Ghaibi Den\ (L G. iii. 359). Under Akbar it had 3 Sarkars^ 88 mahals^ and a revenue of Rs. 3,785,090-8. (Ain. ii. 328). Jarrett has by mistake dropped the first zero. Lahore : founded by Lava. Capital of i the Ghazni- vides, : Buildings of Akbar and Jahangir. XVI. PAN JAB. Tlie Metropolitan Province of Lahore. LAHOR is an old town on the bank of the river Ravi. Its foundation is ascribed to Lav, the son of king Ram Chandra In some histories they write [the names] also as Lahu and Lahaur. When in the course of the revolution of the revolving heavens long ages passed away and its buildings fell into ruin and few signs of habitation were left, Sialkot became the seat of government of this kingdom. After Sultan Mahmud of Ghaznin had conquered Hindustan, Malik Ayaz, who was acceptable in the eyes of the Sultan and a man of unparalleled keenness of sagacity, decided to restore this town and built a pucca fort and newly populated the town. Khusrau Shah and Sultan Khus- rau Malik, his son, both descendants of Sultan Mah- mud, having reconquered this kingdom, made Lahor capital ; and for 38 years* it remained the capital of the dynasty of Sultan Mahmud. After that, none cfthe kings of Hindustan chose to reside in this city and its population declined from grandeur Afterwards, in the time of Tartar Khan, one of the nobles of Sultan Bahlol Lodi, it again became a seat of government. Thereafter, Kamran Mirza, the son of the Emperor Babar, resided in this city, and its population increased. Then, the Emperor Akbar, in his own reign, turned his attention to the work of peopling it ; and having built a strong fort, walls, and a palace, he gave it new splendour. Next the Emperor Jahangir built lofty mansions which are still extant ; and his good fortune * From 1153 to 1184 A. D. (Elphinstone, 391) The two kings mentioned here reigned for 34 lunar years. The text is therefore wrong. KHULASAT : FAN JAB- became for a time the means of its increase of splen- dour. Its habitations were increased by the abodes of the princes and high grandees, esp, the house of Asaf Khan alias Abul Hasan, the son of Itimadu d-daulah, which is very large and spacious. In the time of the Emperor Shah Jahan, the population increased daily. In the reign of the Emperor Aurangzib, when the river Ravi encroached upon the town and by its violence destroyed many houses and gardens, in the fourth year from the Emperor's accession, [42. a] the Imperial order was issued for building a strong embankment that would prevent the destruction of buildings The officers constructed a strong embankment, two kos in length, and the rampart of Alamgir protects the town like the rampart of Alexander. In many places, by building flights cf steps they have made the lip (bank) of the .river attractive like the lips of the fair The high grandees have added to the beauty of the town by building charming houses and pleasant mansions over- looking the river. From the commencement [of the work] to the present time, when more than 40 years have elapsed,, repair and construction of buildings on behalf of the Imperial government have gone on, and much money has been spent on it. It is undoubtedly a large city and a big town. Few towns can be pointed out that resemble it in extent of habitation and largeness of population. Various skilled artisans of every country and every class of the handi- craftsmen of the age live here. The commodities of the seven climates and the things of sea and land are bought and sold here. Though there are many mosques in every lane and bazar, yet the Emperor Alumgir has built on the bank of the river opposite the lofty palace, a high stone mosque, on which more than five lac of rupees have been spent. In the centre of the town is II Atirangzib's embankment Mosques of Aurangzib 8.2 KHULASAT t PANJAB, and Wazir Khan Tombs of Pir All Hajuri, Jahangir, and Asaf Khan Garden of Shalimar DOABS : i. JALAN- DHAR Doab Tomb of Mukhdu- mu-1-mulk another mosque, the cathedral of Wazir Khan alias Hakim Alimu-d-dm of the time of Shah Jahan, which looks like a beautiful mole* on the cheek of the town. In this town is the tomb of the greatest of great saints, Pir Alt Hajuri, who had both learning and piety. Having come from Ghaznin in the company of Sultan Mahmud, he tied up the baggage of life (died 1 at Lahor. The Sultan ascribed his conquest of Lahor to the auspi- ciousness of his coming. Many other favourites of the Divine Majesty repose in this town. The august tomb of the Emperor Jahangir is situated on the other side of the river Ravi, near Skahdra. Close to it is the tomb of Asaf Khanf (Abul Hasan) of the time of Jahangir. Although there are many charming gardens and a thousand pleasant rose bowers in the outskirts of the city, yet the garden of SHALIMAR. which the Emperor . Shah Jahan [42, 6.] laid out in imitation of the garden of Kashmir, ravishes the heart of the beholder. As some parts of the capital have been described, I shall, for the satisfaction of people, write about a few of the other towns of this province. In the dodb of Bait Jalandhar (between the Bias and the Sutlej) is JALANDHAR, an old town. Near it is the tomb of Nasiru-d-din, who enjoyed the reputation of saintship in his life time. In summer people assemble at his tomb on pilgrimage. In the suburbs of this town is also situated the tomb of Shaikh Abdullah of Sultanpur,! who was famous for his learning and * A mole on the cheek was considered a sign of beauty. The Persian poet Hafiz, in a well-known couplet wishes to give away the kingdoms of Samarkand and Bukhara in return for the black mole on the cheek of his mistress. t The brother of Nur Jahan. \ For his life, see Ain. i. 544, KHULASAT : PANJAB, accomplishments, became celebrated under the title of Skaikhu-l Islami in the reign of Salim Shah, and en- joyed the surname of Makhdumu-l-mulk in the reigns of Humayun and Akbar. In this doab is also the old town of Bajwara* where sirisaf, ddhars, doriah, panch- toliahJhonahyVfhite chirah.fotak of gold embroidery and other kinds of cloth are manufactured well. At Sultan- pur , chkint, dolai^ and embroidery are finely made. In the Bari dodb ^between the Bias and the Ravi) is the parganah of Ast-purmati.| Horses like those of Arabia are bred here ; the price of some of them comes up to ten thousand or fifteen thousand rupees. In the Chak of Guru Hargovind, a dependency of Patti Haibatpur, there are a large garden and a tank ; on a certain day in Baisakh many men assemble here Two or three kos from it is Ramtirth,\\ an ancient holy place. A few kos from it is BAT ALA, II a charming town, with a pleasant climate. The founder of this town was Rai Ramdeo Bhatti, zemindar of Kapurthal and chieftain of his own clan. The legend runs that once on a time, as God willed it, a sort of flood raged in the Fanjab, so that all the land from the river Sutlej to the river Chenab, was covered with water, and the houses of the towns and villages were destroyed and many living creatures perished. For some time after the cloth weaving ii. BARI Doab Ham-tiith BATAIA Story of its foundation * Bajwara, a village in Hoshiarpur district, \\ m. E of Hoshiar- pur town, ( L G. i 439). t All the above, except adhars and dolai are mentioned in Am i. 93 95. Dolai is a garment well-known in India even now. J Or, Purmati. No such parganah is mentioned in A in. Not inentified. Patti in the Kasur tahsil of Laho.e district, 20 m. N. of Sobraon, 31*17 N. 74*54 E. || Ramtirath\s 8 m. N. W. of Amritsar, IT Batala ( I. G. ii. 215), in Gurdaspur district, 24 m. -from Amritsar. Elliot mistook if for Patiala* KHTJFLASAT : PANJAB. Why so named Improved by Akbar's governor flood had subsided, this land remained desolate. After- wards habitations appeared in some places. As the Mughals of Balkh and Kabul [43. a.] used to make plundering incursions into the Panjab every year, this country remained desolate on every side, and many tracts of land lay waste ; little produce or crop was raised. In the reign of Sultan Bahlol Lodi, Tartar Khan took a lease of it, and by chance became honour- ed with the honour of [conversion to] Islam, and this became the cause of his advancement. In the year 877 A. H. (1465 A. n.),~ 1522 of the era of Vikramajit, during the lease cf Tartar Khan, the town of Batala was founded on a site occupied by a lonely forest. The reason of its being so named was that at the time of the foundation of the town there was no good omen ; and so, having stopped building at that place, they laid the foundation of the city elsewhere, on a hillock near it. As 'exchange' is called Batd in the Panjabi langu- age, the town came to be named Batdla on account of its change of site The jungle being cut, many hamlets were founded and cultivation took place, and it became recognised as a parganah. It has gradually reached such a condition that at present its income comes up to Qarun's* forty treasuries and breathes equality with the treasury of Purviz. At first the population of the town was not so large The eunuch Shams her Khan, o was the krori (revenue-collector) of this parganah under Akbar, f increased the splendour of the city * Korah, the cousin of Moses, believed by the Muhammadans to have been very rich and avaricious. Purviz or Khusrau Pur- vis, grandson of Naushirvan, reigned in Persia 591 628 A. D. (Malcolm's History of Persia^ i, 125.) t "Akbar gave it in fagir to Shamsher Khan, his foster-brother who greatly improved and beautified the town, and built without it a magnificent tank." (/, G. ii, 215). KHULASAT : PANJAB. by building houses worthy of governors, many tanks, and pleasant gardens ; and the population of the town increased daily, and it became a heart-ravishing place. Afterwards Shaikh-i-masha-ikh, the krori^ be- came the cause of its increase of population, by building numerous edifices and charming gardens. Now in the reign of the Emperor Alamgir, Mirza Muhammad Khan (who bears the title of Wazir Khan) made the shops of the bazar pucca, in the I2th year of Alamgir's reign (1669 A. 1).), when he was employed as overseer of this parganah. Banki Rai, Sujan Singh the Qanongo, and their children have built charming rest- houses, caravan -serais, and porah. * Qazi Abdul Hai has established lodging-houses, bazars, caravan-serais, a cathedral mosque, and a garden. These men have been the cause of the splendour and enlargement of the town. Gangadhar, the son of Hiranand-dhar, has sunk a pucca well in the bazar, beautiful like a mole on the face; and he has also established a garden and a well with steps in the environs of the city, on the Lahor road. [43- b ] As the water of both wells rivals the water of the Ganges, their founder is rightly called Gangddhar.\ Though there are many fresh gardens and pleasant bowers in the suburbs of the city, yet Amar Singh the Qanongo has laid out a garden in imitation of the garden of Shalimar on different planes, with three terraces, and extremely pleasant. The high- est terrace overlooks the tank of Shamsher Khan, at- tracts the gaze of beholders by its freshness and beauty, and gladdens the sightseers of the town. The outskirts of this town contain many tombs of Buildings of Wazir Khan, Sujan Singh, Abdul Hai, and Gangddhar Garden of Amar Singh Holy tombs * Porah, a set of houses, often enclosed by a wall and forming one ward of a town. (/. G. 1.95.) t "He who holds the stream of the Ganges on his head," ,-. *., Shiva. 86 KHULASAT : PANJAB, Shah Shams : his miracle ; saints such as the Essence of those who have joined the court of the Lord, viz., Shah Shahabu d-din Bokhari, Shah Kharab, Shah Ismail, Shah Niamatullah, and Shaikh Al-Haddad, each of whom was greatly revered in his life-time. Two kos off, in the village of Miani is the tomb of Shah Badru-d-din, who was connected with that saint of saints Miran Mahiu-d-din. Four kos from Batala, in the village of Damal-ti wal* a depen dency of Kalanpr, is the tomb of that Manifestation of Light, Shah Shams, who was one of those that had been admitted to the court of God and of whose mira culous deeds, wonderful legends increase our wonder. One of them is that, in his life-time, a Hindu named Dipali was his favourite servant: Once upon a time the day for bathing in the Ganges came round and groups of Hindus set out [for the river.] Dipali asked of His Holiness permission to journey to the Ganges. His Holiness refused to grant it, and ordered him to remind him of it on the day appointed for the assem- blage on the Ganges. When the day arrived, Dipali made his petition and was commanded to close his eyes. As soon as he did so, he found himself on the bank of the Ganges, talking with his brothers and relatives who had set out before him, and bathing in the company of this multitude of people, all of whom saw htm there. But as sofcn as he opened his eyes he found himself in the presence of His Holi- ness and became puzzled by his own achievement. Afterwards when his brothers came back from the journey to the Ganges and found him already at home, they all cried out, "Dipali was not with us in the [ outward ] journey ; but all of us bathed in the Ganges with him ; and also at the time of our * Not found in Atlas. KHULASAT : FAJiJAB* return he did not accompany us, and yet he reached home before us " At length, having learnt the truth of the affair L 4A a ], they were amazed at this manifes- tation of supernatural power by that Asylum of Saint ship. And there was a more wonderful miracle : a few years after the passing away of this member of the Court of Great God, some carpenters at the com- mand of the Governor of Kalanor felled a gum tree which grew close to the tomb and were sawing it into pieces for use in a building, when suddenly by the power of God a terrible sound came out, the earth shook, the trunk of the tree erected itself, and the carpenters grew afraid at this occurrence, The tree again became green and put forth leaves and branches. The legend of this wonder became famous in all corners of the world and served to increase the faith of crowds of men in His Holiness, the Essence of eminent Saints. The tomb of this Manifestation of [spiritual] Light is now a place of pilgrimage to high and low. Every Friday night, especially on the Friday night of the new moon, many people, both male and female, gather together from far and near and make offerings of money and things and also rice, malicla, and butter and sugar mixed together. Every one makes vows in the hope of gaining his desire, and by the grace of God the wishes are fulfilled. Unlike the tombs of other [Muhammadan] saints, this tomb has for its servants and attendants a family of Hindus, the descendants of the said Dipali, Although the Islamites tried and are still trying to oust these Hindus, they have not suc- ceeded, because the special favour of His Holiness was bestowed upon Dipali. Up to the present time the same family has remained confirmed in the service [of the tomb.] Near it is a place named Dhianpur, in which lived another miracle Hindu guar- dians of a Moslem Saint's tomb, 88 KHULASAT : PANJAB. Baba Lai, a Hindu saint, I admired by Dara Shekoh. Sikh Gurus : i. NANAK, born at Talwandi 1469, BABALAL,* the chief of the lords of condition and speech, and the place of descent (*. e , manifestation) of the triumphs of God (who is the Lord of Dignity.) In his own times he was a master of knowledge and a knower of God, eloquent in expressing spiritual truth and wisdom, and the ocean of the waves of various words. Many men, high and low, were believers in him. It is their constant practice and religious duty to repeat his Hindi verses about the truth and knowledge of God. Prince Dara Shekoh, in his life time often interviewed this wise man and conversed with him on the knowledge of God. Munsi Chandrabhan of the time of Shah Jahan [44, b. ] has penned in a pleasant style in Persian the dialogue between them. Twelve kos from Batalah, on the bank of the river Ravi, is the birth-place of BABA NANAK, whose descen- dants are still living there. In his own days he was the leader of the caravan in the path of truth (i. e., the spiritual guide of a sect,) the torch-bearer in the road of religion, the Manifestation of the splendour of the light of God, and the beholder of the rays of the secrets of the Infinite. He composed Hindi verses on the real character of the True One the Universal Soul and thereby proved the unity of the Godhead in an impressive style and clear metaphors. It is said that this Elect One of the world was born at Tahvandi Rat Bhuna\, in the year 1526 of Vikramajit, corresponding to 880 A. H. (1469 A.D.), in the reign of Bahlol Lodi, and lived at * The A-text omits his name ; it has been supplied from the B-text. t "Tulwundee, a village on the Ravee, which was held by one Race Bhooa, of the Bhuttee tribe." (Cunningham's KHULASAT ! PANJAE. his boyish miracles ; the same place in his maternal grandfather's house*. As he was predestined to be a receptacle of the victories of God, he exhibited in his loth year signs of the knowledge of the invisible world, and performed super- human acts and miracles ; and many men became believers*in him. After having gratified them [with spiritual teaching,] he came to the town of Batala, be- came a householder (i e., married), and fixed his resi- dence in one of the villages dependent on Batala on the bank of the river Ravi. The fame of his knowledge of God and wise sayings was noised abroad ; large numbers of men from all sides of the country came to him and became his disciples. One of his favourites was a musician named Mardana-f, who lured men into the snare of faith by singing in a charming manner songs about the Favourites of the Court of the Creator. [Nanak], the chief among the knowers of God, renounced dies 1539. this transitory world|, between his 7oth and Both years, in the reign of Salim Shah Afghan. Though he had an obedient son named Lakhmidas, yet, as spiritual wealth was not his share, Nanak, at the time of his death appointed as his successor a Khattri named Lehna|! (alias Teehun), under the title of Guru Angad. He was one of Nanak's dear associates and intimate attendants. After occupying the seat [of Guru] for a founds the Sikh sect, 2. ANGAD, d. 1552. * "Some say that though the father of Nanak was of Tulwan- dee, Nanak himself was born in Kanakach, 1 5 miles south of Lahore, in the house of his mother's parents." (Ibid}. t "The sweet singer" of the movement, like Charles Wesley among the Methodists. J In 1539, at Kartarpur on the Ravi, 40 miles above Labor. His second son, the eldest Sree Chund having become an ascetic and the founder of the Oodassee sect, (Ibid, 39 n.) H Lehna belonged to the Teehun, Amardas to the Bhulleh, and Ramdas to the Sodhi subdivisions of the Kshatriya race. (Ibid* 47.) 12 KHULASAT : PANJAB . 3. AMAR- DAS, d, 1574. 4. RAM- DAS, d. 1581. 5. ARJUN, d. 1606, 6. HAR- GOVJND, d. 1645. 7. HAR- RAI, d. 1661. 8. HAR- KISHEN, d. 1664, 9. TEGH BAHADUR, d. 1675. 10, GOVIND RAI. The Sikh religion : period of 13 years, he departed (1552 A.D.), As h had no son, his son-in-law Amardas (alias Bhola^j wa seated in his chair. He, after acting as the spiritua guide of men for 22 years, vacated his body. (1574 A.D Though he had descendants [of his own body], yet a the time of his passing away, he seated in kis plao his son-in-law Ramdas (alias Sodhi), who lived as thi object of adoration of his disciples for 7 years (d. 158: A.D.). After him Guru Arjun*, his son, [.45 a] SB. in the chair and after 25 years tied up the baggag* of life (d, 1606 A.D). Then Guru Hargovindf, his faith ful son, adorned the chair for 38 years. When he diec (1645 AD.), Guru Har Rai, whose father Guru Dutt J . had died in the life-time of Guru Hargovind, sat in the place of his illustrious grandfather, and for 17 yean acted as the guide of the believers (d. 1661). After him his young son, Guru Har Kishen, sat in the chair for 3 years (d. 1664). Then Tegh Bahadur, the younger son of Guru Hargovind, occupied the chair for 15 years, but at last he was captured by the Imperial officers and, in 1081 A. H. (1675 A.D.) corresponding to the I7th year of the reign of Alamgir, executed at Shah- Jahanabad by command of the Emperor. At the time of writing this book, Guru GOVIND Rai, the son of Guru Tegh Bahadur, has been seated in the chair for 22 years. In short, among the followers of Baba Nanak there * He made Amritsar the seat of the religion, compiled the Adt Granth) and organised the Sikh community. (Ibid, 49). t He first formed the Sikhs into a military body. (/#/#, 53). Died at Kiritpur, on the Sutlej. J Eldest son of Har Govind. He made the Sikhs an aggressive power in order to combat the Muhammadan faith and power, and established the theocracy of the Kh&tsa. He died in 1708 A.D.. (Ibid, 65 and 71.) KHULASAT : chanting holy verses, universal brother- hood, devotion to the Guru, hospitality, are many ascetics, men agreeable in speech, austere devotees, and persons whose prayers have been heard [by God]. The essence of the worship of this sect is the recital of the verses of their Guide, which they sing with instrumental and vocal music and with a heart- ravishing chant. They have removed the effects of foul [worldly] attachments from their minds and cast away from their hearts the obscuring veil of impediments [to spiritual progress.] In their eyes, kinsmen and strangers are alike, friends and enemies are the same. They live with devotion to their friends, and without quarrel with their enemies. The reliance which this sect has on its leader is seldom seen in other sects. In the name of their Guide (which they continually repeat on the tongue\ they consider it an act of great piety to attend on" travellers. If a wayfarer arrives at midnight and takes the name of Baba Nanak, every such stranger and unknown man, unless he happens to be a thief, highwayman, or person of evil notoriety, is treated as a brother and friend and served in a worthy manner. Two kos from Batala [45. b.} is Achal* a place sacred to Syam Kartik, the son of Mahadev ; it is an old shrine. Here is a large lake the water of which rivals that of Kausar in pleasantness and good taste. At the commencement or middle of [the Sun's journey in] the Libra, which is the time of the equinox and the merry season among the men of the world, thousands of mendicants of austere devotion and many anchorites bent upon benefiting others, come to this place. And all classes of people, fashionable, respectable, great and small, male and female, having come from all parts of the country, assemble together for six days. This vast crowd of men and assemblage of private and public personages covers leagues [of ground]. Many get their Achal Mela vast gather- ing: Not found in Atlas, KHULASAT : PAN JAB. ascetics beautiful women food stuffs confects singing gymnastics jugglery pictures temporal and spiritual desires gratified by interviewing and frequenting the company of the religious medicants who know God. Otl>ers make merry by meeting and sitting with their frfends. Some, by watching the throng of all specks of men, understand the rare power of the Creator who shines in dignity.) Multitudes by beholding the beauty of the moon-faced fairy-like [fair ones], gratify their wishes. Groups of pleasure-seekers and lovers of good cheer fill the stomach of their desire with every sort of eatables. Numbers of the sick, by the holy prayers of the benevolent, get curative medi- cines. And in this merry gathering, in one part of the bazar, on the two sides of the road, are arranged on trays and dishes many kinds of eatables, confects, fruits of spring and autumn, perfectly sweet and fresh. In another quarter of the assembly, music, song, darrce, and pantomime delight the sightseers and the audience. At another place, clever buffoons and eloquent story- tellers, by their rare speeches, excite the laughter of the spectators. Elsewhere strong-armed athletes and strong men of iron-like grasp perform the feats of Rustam* and Isfandiar in wrestling. [46. a.] At another place jugglers of extraordinary capacity per- form strange and clever tricks in sleights of skill and rope dancing. Elsewhere many matchless pictures of heroes, of banquet and war, of mountain-like elephants and strong-limbed horses, and of other objects, create a second picture-gallery of Manesf upon the walls, and make the beholders stand absorbed in the sight like figures on a wall. In another quarter the bazar grows * Rustam, the celebrated Persian hero, and son of Zal. (Mal- colm's History of Persia, I. 19 et seq) Isfandiar, a son of Gushtasp, King of Persia. (Ibid, I. 46 et seq) t The founder of the sect of Manichaeans, and a celebrated painter, according to Muhammadan myth. KHULASAT : PANJAB. din and bustle* warm with the buying and selling of many kinds of j weapons arms, accoutrements, and the various implements used by men and women, and children's toys. The ears of the heavens are deafened by the shouts of men, the din and bustle of the crowd, and the sounds of the large brass drum, the tabor, the tambourine, the cymbal, the lute, &c. The great dust chokes up the eyes of the sky. Undoubtedly this is a sight to behold which the sky opens its thousand eyes ; and the stars grow in wonder as they gaze at it. The Sun, which does not stop for a moment in its swift revolution, stands in the sky to behold this assembly. The Moon, which illumi- nates the gathering of night, every day puts forth its face out of the window of the East in order to see it. Travellers of the habitable world and tourists of hill and forest have never seen such a gathering or spectacle in any other place. The people of Batala, even when they happen to be a hundred leagues away from their home and in the enjoyment of power, pleasure, comfort, and wealth, invariably wish to come to this place at the time of the gathering. As the birth-place of the author of this book is the pleasant land of Batala, he has thought it fit to record a few of the things of that happy town and this delightful fair. In this doab, 50 kos from Batala in the northern direction in the hilly region is the fort of Kangra, famous for its strength. At the foot of that fort is a place named NAGARKOT,* sacred to Bhawani, and an old place of pilgrimage. [46. b.} Twice a year, in September and February, people come here on pilgrim- age from distant places, sometimes after a year's journey, and get their hearts' desire. What is more * Situated on the northern slope of a hill which is surmounted by the fort of Kangra. "The temple of Devi ranks among the oldest and most wealthy shrines in India." (/. G. v&. 430.) Kangra j Nagarkot KHULASAT : PAN JAB. devotee cot out their tongues and heads Jawalamu- khi. iiL RECHNA Doab. SlALKOT its founder Shalya or Salivahan. an old capi- tal, wonderful is that some, in order to realise their cut out their tongues ; these tongues are restored in a few hours in the case of some, in two or three days in the case of others. Another miracle is that in this place some men sever their heads from their trunks ; their friends place the heads on the bodies and they again get life by the grace of God. Ten kos from Nagarkot is Jawdldmukhi* in many spots of which tongues of fire shoot up like torches, Men make pilgrimages to this place also, and throw into the fire all sorts of things, which are reduced to ashes. This is regarded as auspicious. In the dodb of Rechnau [between the Ravi and the Chenab] there is an old town, SlALKOT, also called Salkot. Its foundation is ascribed to Raja Sdl (Shalya) the general of the Pandus."f In the book Mahabharat^ since the composition of which about 5,000 years have passed away, mention is made of the aforesaid town and Raja. It is, called Sialkot in connection with Raja SalivahanJ whose memory is preserved by a pucca fort. Formerly it was the seat of government of the Panjabj and the habitations covered 2 or 3 kos. It was famous and had a larger population than any other town in this province. In 580 A. H. (1184 A. D.), when * It has "a very holy shrine, surpassing even that of Kangra. The temple stands above certain jets of combustible gas, issuing from the ground, and kept constantly burning, as a manifestation of the goddess Devi." (/. G. vii. 162.) t He was really a general on the side of the Kurus. t "Sialkot, founded by Raja Sal or Shal, an uncle of the Pandava princes. Restored about 65 or 70 A. D. by Salwan or Salivahana, otherwise called Vikramaditya, father of the great Punjab hero, Rasdlu In the centre of the town stands the remains of an ancient fort, popularly believed to have been the original stronghold of Raja Salwan" (/. G. xii. 451.) KHUtASAT : PAN JAB. Sultan Sbahabu-d-din Ghori came for the fifth time with the purpose of conquering Labor and besieg- ed it without success, he turned to Sialkot, and, after repairing and renovating its old fort, left his army in it.* After a long time, Raja Man Singh of Akbar's court, when he was Commandant of Jummun and fief- holder of Sialkot, turned his attention to the repair of the fort and the improvement of the town. After that, Masdar Khan of Jahangir's time, who also was Commandant of Jummun [47.#. ] and had this par- gana as his fief, rebuilt the fort and battlements. Since then many governors have repaired it. In short, this delightful town is adorned with all sorts of beauty ; the buildings of the Qanongoes of the [Jain] tribe of Bhabra and of some other persons are extremely de- lightful and heart-attractive. Good paper f is manu- factured in this town, especially the Mansinghi paper and silken paper of very good texture, white, clean and durable. These are exported in all directions. Embroidery with silk and gold threads and many kinds of bafta, chira (scwf).fotah (sheet), sozani, adsaka\ table- cloth, tray covers, and small tents with figures in gold thread, are well manufactured here. Every year about a lac of rupees' worth of embroidered fabrics are bought and sold and sent to all parts cf the world. The jam- dhar, katari, and lance are well made. In the environs of the city are pleasant and charm- * Elliot, ii. 294. t "The distinctive industry of the place is the manufacture of paper, carried on in 3 hamlets forming suburbs of the city Under the Mughal Emperors, Sialkot paper was noted for its excellence, being largely used at the Delhi court," (/. G. xii. 452) } AH these are mentioned in A in. i. 93-95, except adsaka. Ain. i, no. fort repair- ed by S naba- bud-din, Man Singh, and Masdar Khan. Manufac- tures; paper, embroidery arms KHULASAT : PANJAB. River Aik water sports at Sialkot Tomb of a holy war- rior Scholars of Sialkot : Kamal Hakim ing gardens, esp. f the garden of Nazar Muhamrjiad, where plants and fruits of every kind are grown. Near it flows the stream of A ik> which issues from the mountain of Jummun. This stream after leaving that town, for ten kos extends over the ground and gets the name of Khelri*, and, branching off on all sides, disappears. In the rainy season when this canal be comes flooded, many people of Sialkot, both high and low, strip themselves naked from head to foot and with only a waist-band on, get upon [inflated] skins and perform water-sports in this canal with happiness and joy. If any inhabitant of this town happens to be at a distance at that time, the memory of the water-sports of the town makes him cheerful. In this charming place is the tomb of Imam Ali-al-Haq, the son of Imam Zainu-1-Abidin.f It is said that he came to Hindus- tan from the west in the company of many Muham- madans with the intention of waging a holy war. By chance he reached Sialkot, and having fought with the Hindus [47. b] received the honour of martyrdom. The tomb of this Manifestation of Light is a place of pilgrimage to high artd low. This happy town is a seat of learning and the resort of learned men, a mine of scholarship and the abode of scholars. In the reign of the Emperor Akbar, Maulana Kamal, that essence of the masters of condi- tion and speech, getting angry with Husain Khan the governor of Kashmir, came to Sialkot in 971 A. H. (1564 A. D.) engaged himself in teaching pupils, and thus gave currency to learning in this town. In the reign of Shah Jahan, Maulvi Abdu~l-Hakim the most accomplished of the accomplished, the most perfect of * Khilre* * riv^r dir^rtlv smith nf alcn Aik, though it is distinct from the Aik which flows by Sialkot. t Zain was a nephew of Hasan, the son of Ali. KHULASAT : PANJAB. scholars, the manifestation of the upright nature, the ocean of the waves of learning and perfection, the man of unrivalled accomplishments and beneficence, spread learning still further. By writing marginal commen- taries on some books, he interpreted the meaning of difficult passages ; the pupils who joined his blessed school from far and near, attained to many accomplish- ments. When he passed away, that leader of the men of God and guide of the creatures of the Deity, Maulvi Abdulla, the second son of the saved soul [Abdul Hakim], engaged himself in increasing the glory of the school and in guiding the pupils. He made his internal virtues match his external learning and his religious poverty the close associate of his scholarship. As he promoted sweeter manners and acted as the guide of all classes of men, this great man was surnamed "the Imam of the Age." He passed on to the Eternal world in the 2th year of Alamgir's reign (1682 A. D.) Twelve kos from Sialkot is Dhonkal* a place asso* ciated with Sultan Sarwar. It is a place of pilgrimage at all times ; but in summer crowds of people come from all sides of the country and offer presents, and for two months there is a great gathering here. Fifteen kos from Sialkot is Purmandalft in the midst of the hills of Jummun. It is sacred to Mahadev. When the Sun enters the Sign of Virgo, which [48. a.} is called Baisakhi, large numbers of people, coming from all sides of the world, form a great gathering. And the kings of the hilly region, coming with pomp and grandeur, construct high platforms and practise archery. A rare spectacle is seen. The river DEGH issues from this place. After leaving it and passing by the limits of villages of the 4 miles south of Wazirabad. 14 miles S. E, E. of Jummoo city. 13 Abdulla Places of Pilgrimage: Dhonkal Purmandal RiverDegh. KHULASAT ; PANJAB, Bismuth SODHRA AH Mar- dan's garden, city, and canal. iv. CHIN'- HUT Doab. Gnjrat, parganas* of Zafarwal, Haminagar, Pasrur, and Amina- bad, it reaches the foot of the bridge of Shah Daula,f which is on the high way. Flowing by theparganas of Daulatabad, Mihrabad, Manish, Faridabad, and others, it unites with the Ravi. This pargana is called Degh- Ravi. fn Jummun there is a mine of bismuth. Taking gravel from the river Tavi (which flows at the foot of Jummun city) and setting it on fire, they make bismuth. No other place produces bismuth of such whiteness, hardness, and durability. SODIIRA| is an old fort on the bank of the river Chenab. In the reign of the Emperor Shah Jahan, Ah Mardan Khan, the premier noble, founded a city near the aforesaid village and named it Ibrahimabad after his own son. He laid out a pleasant garden, which rivals the garden of Shalimar, and built lofty houses, spending six lac of rupees on these buildings, garden, and a canal which brings the river Tavi to the garden-house. The Imperial government has assigned to the premier noble 2,000 villages of Sodhra rent-free for the repair of the aforesaid garden and city. In the doab of Chinhut^ [between the Chenab and the Bihat] is the town of Gujrat which was populated in the reign of the Emperor Akbar ; and villages having * Of these % parganas^ Zafarwal, Pasrur, and Aminabad are given in Atlas ; Haminagar and Daulatabad are mentioned in Am. ii. 319 ; the remaining three have not been identified. t Given in Atlas, Sheet 30, as Pool Shah Doivla^ 31*54 N. 7425 E. J Four miles N. E. of Wazirabad. Ali Mardan's canal "brought the waters of the Tavi to supply the Imperial gardens at Shahdara," on the Ravi, opposite Lahor city. (/. G. xii. 441.) D Also spelt Jenhat or Jechna, KHUtASAT : been detached from the pargana of Sialkot, a separate pargana was formed. At first the town was not so splen- did as now. But SHAH DAULA, the Essence of saints, fixed* his habitation here, and constructed a tank, wells and mosques. [48. b] He also built a bridge over the river, which, flowing from the hills of Bhimber f , had been doing injury to the above town. He thus became the cause of its growth in population and splendour. It is said that Shah Daula in early life was the slave of Khema Bhadra, an inhabitant of Sialkot, and loved Faqirs excessively. He particularly served his Holiness Mian Midna. When the time of departure of Mian Midna arrived, his gracious look fell on S?hah Daula, and by the influence exerted at that time he was turned to another way of life, and his interior was illuminated with the light of spiritual knowledge. Leaving Sialkot for Gujrat, he resided there. As he was illuminated at heart, many treasure-troves became revealed to him, and he built houses and bridges in many places ; in parti- cular he built a strong bridge such a substantial structure as no rich man even has constructed over the river Degh on the highway, 5 kos from Aminabad in the direction of Labor. While this Asylum of Saintship lived, many people used to make pilgrimages to him from all parts of the world, and present him with cash and kind. This knower of the secrets of the unseen [world] usefl to bestow cheerfully on other pilgrims more than what had been presented to him [by his devotees.] Every day he used to keep open the hand of gift and charity to such an extent that the liberality of the whole life-time of Hatam was the abode of Shah Daula his life charity and public works ; * In the reign of Shah Jahan. (/. G. v. 196.) t West of Jhilum city. { Kshema-bhadra, or probably Kshema of the Jain tribe of mentioned by Hunter as living in Sialkot. too JtHULASAT : PANJAB, his tomb, Manufac. tures v. SIND SAGAR Doab : Rock salt vast deposits how salt is extracted not a tenth part of a tenth part of his [daily alms.] At last in the i/th year of Alamgir's reign (1674 A. D.) he departed to the Eternal World. Near the city stands the tomb of this great man, an object of pilgrimage to many. This town is the abode of all classes of men and a store-house of the articles of all countries and the rare things of the age. Swords andjawtdAars are well made, and more embroidery is done than at Sialkot Here are bred horses resembling the Arab, some of which fetch prices up to one thousand rupees. In the doab of Sindh Sagar (between the Jhilum and the Indus), rock salt is obtained near Shamsabad* [49. a .] at the foot of the mountain. The salineness and delicate taste of this salt are renowned as surpass- ing those of the salts of [other places on] the surface of the earth. It is called the Sindh salt, f *'. e., the salt produced in the doab of the Sindh river. By the power of God, the Creator of rare things, the whole mountain has been formed of salt, though its length exceeds a hundred kos. In the Zafarnama and the Akbarnama it is called "the mountain of Judha ." Judha was the chief of the tribe of JanjuahJ under whose name the hill is famous and whose descendants still hold sway over the parganas of Kirjhak, Pandna, Makhiala, and others, which are situated at the skirts of the hills. In short, men called Aldsha-kash are engaged in extract- ing the salt. Digging a mine of more than 2bo or 300 * It seems to have been situated near Pind Dadan Khan. There is a Shamsabad 10 m. S. E. E. of Atak, but it could not have been meant by our author. t Sanskrit saindhava lavana^ 'salt of the sea/ the meaning of Sindhu being 'sea.' \ A pure Rajput tribe, mentioned by Hunter (vii. 168.) Kirjhak (or Girjak) and Makhialah are mentioned in A in. (ii. 324 ) Pandna cannot be traced. KHULASAT : PANJAB. 101 yards deep in the hill side, each man, naked from head to foot, with torch in hand and pick-axe on shoulder, goes into the dark mine, digs out lumps of salt three maunds in weight, and comes out carrying them on the back. They get wages from the superintendents of this work. As they are well accustomed to this work, they do not feel any fear or bewilderment in going into the darkness, digging salt, and bringing it out of the mine. By the grace of God, inside the mines it is not hot in summer nor cold in winter, but temperate like spring in all seasons. Although rock salt is got from many places, yet Khuhra and Keohra* are two large mines near Shamsabad, from which several lacs of" maunds of salt come out every year. The Imperial government gets from them a royalty amounting to the [total] revenue of other places. Many skilled artisans make trays, dishes, dish-covers, and lamps of salt. Near it is situated a quarry of sweet lime which is used in whitewashing the inside of the houses of wealthy men. Of this stone also they make dishes, cups, and other things. Near it, within the territory of Makhialah is Kota Chhinaft a lake, the depth of which no man knows. [49. 6.] It is regarded as an ancient place of worship. On holy days, such as the time of the entrance of the Sun into the Sign of Aries, and such others, groups of Hindus assemble here for bathing. It is their belief that the Earth has two eyes, the right eye is the lake of Pushkar near Ajmir and the left eye is this lake. the best mines art ware of salt. Sweet lime Sacred lake * Given in Atlas (Sheet 15.) Kcora t 32-39 N. 73*4 E., Khoora 4 m. N. E. of Keora. "The Mayo mines in the neighbourhood of the village of Kheura, a few miles N. E. of Find Dadan Khan, in Jhelam Dist." (/. G. xii. 171.) t Not identified. The only lakes here are the Kallar Kahnr and the Sun\Suke$ur Kahar. 102 KHULASAT : PANJAB. Balnath Tilla resort of ascetics. Rivers of Panjab : I. SUTLEJ : its course in the hills and plain On the summit of this mountain, 7 kos from the fort of Rohtas is a cave of austerities, Balnath Jogi. It is [also] called Tilla* and is situated four kos high (?) On appointed days, especially on the Shiva-ratri (which is a day sacred to Mahadev), at the -end of winter, many men and crowds of Yogis assemble here and perform worship. A few of the famous places of the five doabs have been here set down. It is now necessary to write a true account of the six rivers of this province which enclose the five doabs. The first river, the SUTLEJ, issues from the mountain of Bhu Tibbat and passes by the territories of Kullu and Bashahr.f Then it travels among the mountains, and reaching the limits of Kahlur encloses that country on three sides. The King of Kahlur by reason of the strength afforded by this river, the inaccessibility of the hills, and the security of his residence, the city of Bilaspur is his seat of govern- ment, swerves from [ obedience to ] the Imperial officers. This river, after issuing from the hills, parts into two branches, passes by the fort of Mako-walJ * Tilla, the sanitarium of the Jhelam Dist., 3242 ft. high, according to Hunter, (but 3215 ft. ace. to Atlas, sheet 29, where it is spelt /02-//7fl,) 32*51 N. 73*30 E. t KullU) the territory round Sultanpur, 32*5 N. 77-2 E. (Letts* Sheet 11.) Bashahr, a hill State, lying N. E. E. of Simla (7. G. r. 182) Kahlur^ a hill State N. W. of Simla, (vii. 293.) \ Makowal) 20 m. W. of Bilaspur city. Kiratpur, *a place bestowed upon Hurgovind by the hill chief of Kuhloor.' (Cun- ningham's Sikhs, 56.) Rupar is in Umbala District ; Machhiwara is midway between Rupar and Ludhiana ; Talwun (Atlas, Sheet 30), 23 m. S. of Jullundur city ; Tulivarrah is 4 m. W. of Aliwal, on the south bank of the Sutlej. Bauh is not found in Atlas, though Jarrett speaks of a Baupur. Mandi and Suket are given in Letts* Sheet ii. Hindun is probably a mistake for Nandaoft> 1 6 m. S. of Kangra fort. KHULASAT : PANJAB. (which was the abode of Guru Govind Rai) and Kiratpur (in which lived Gurus Har Govind and Har Rai>, and then forms one stream again on arriving near the village of Rupar. Thence passing by the village of Machhiwara, it reaches the neighbourhood of Ludhiana. In this mahal is a royal road. From this place it passes by the villages of Talun and Tharah, and unites with the river Biah near the mauza of Bauh, a depen- dency of the pargana of Haibatpur Patti. The tract between these two rivers is called the doab of Beth Jalandar and [also] Sihatwal. The second river, BIAII (Bias), also rises in the hilly country of Bhu Tibbat, from a lake. Passing by the town of Kullu, it arrives at the city af Mandi. [50. a.] Then, flowing through the territories of Suket, Sach- chan, and Machalmuri, it reaches the foot of the town of Hindun, the residence of the Commandant of the hill country. Thence it passes by the limits of Dhua!, Sabnah, and Gualiar. Though Gualiar is a small coun- try, yet its Raja has often defied the Imperial officers by reason of the strength of the river and the inaccessi- bility of the hill. Then this river passes by the villages of Purnur * and descends from the hills. After reach ing the plains and passing by the fort of Kanuahan, (which is one of the Emperor's appointed places of hunting), and the village of Rahila, it reaches the foot of the city of Govind-wal. Here is a royal road. After leaving this place, it unites with the river Sutlej near the mauza of Bauh. The tract between these two rivers is called the Beth of Jalandhar. [ The united stream of] both these rivers passes by the towns of Firuzpur and Mamdot. Thence reaching the territory * A mistake for Nurpur^ which is midway between Chamba and Batala Kan^iivan^ 10 m. S. of Gurdaspur town. (Atlas, Sheet 30 ) Govindwal) 14 m. S. W, W. of Kapurthala/ unites with the Bias. 2. BIAS : its course in the hills and plain junction with the Sutiej 1Q4 KHULASAT : PANJAB. merges in the Indus. 3. RAVI : its upper course four canals issuing from it. of the mahals of the Sarkar of Dipalpur,* it widens in the rainy season. Leaving Dipalpur it bifurcates : one branch flowing southwards gets the name of Sutlej, the other flowing northwards by way of Qabwal and Kata i-Baldi gets the name of Biah. Both these streams', after a few leagues, unite again. Passing by the limits of Fatehpur, Khiror,f and other places, the river reaches the territory of Khalu Ketarah and gets the name of Kanarah, \ [but] in the territory of the Baluchis it gets the name of Sindh river. The third is the river RAVI. Between the Biah and this river lies the famous doab of Bari and Manjhah. The Ravi issues from the mountain of Man Mahes, a dependency of the country of Chamba, which is a place sacred to Mahadev and has the snow and climate of Kashmir and Kabul, and produces many sweet and delicious fruits. The kings of this place breathe the spirit of independence on account of the extent of their country, its large population, the inaccessibility of the hills, and the strength of their fastnesses? as this river forms a barrier to the Imperial army. After coming out of [50. 6.] Chamba and flowing to the boundaries of the land of Besuhli, it reaches the foot of the town of Shahpur, a dependency of Nurpur. Near Shahpurff have been taken out of this river a royal canal which goes to the garden of Shalamar in Lahor, a second canal which * 30*40 N. 73-43 E. (7. G. iv, 303). t Both given in Letts' Sheet 12, N. E. of Bahawalpur. t Atlas (Sheet 30) gives 2 canals as branching off from the Sutlej and named Kutora and Kanwah. Our text seems to be wrong here. 20 m. W. of Chamba (Letts' Sheet u). || 32*23 N. 75-44 E. (Atlas, Sheet 29), north of Pathankot. The main Bari Doab canal issues from Madhupur^ 7 m. N. W. of Pathankot. Ali Mardan Khan's canal commenced a little below this point (L <P, ii. 153). KHULASAT : PANJAB. 105 goes to the pargana of Pathan [-Kot], a third [canal which goes] to the pargana of Batala, and a fourth [canal which goes] to the pargana of Biar (?) Patti Haibatpur.* These canals do good to the crops of the makals. After leaving this place and flowing by the limits of theparganas of Pathan [-Kot], Katuhah, Kala- nor, Batala, Pursarwar, Eminabad, and other mahals, this river increases the splendour of the capital Lahor. [It acts as] a highway at the feet of the Imperial build- ings. After this place, passing by the limits of Sin- dhuan, Faridabad, Degh-Ravi, and Multha, it unites with the rivers Chenab and Bihat (Jhilum), which flow together, near Sarai Sindhu, f 20 kos from Multan, and gets the name of Chenab. The fourth river is the CHENAB, The region between the Ravi and this river is famous under the name of Rechnau doab. In Hindu books the Chenab is written as the Chandrabhaga. It is believed to have come out of the country of Chin. When [the Chenab?] after passing by the limits of*the land of Chamba reaches KishtwarJ, (the saffron of which place is famous), the river Chandra- bhaga, having come from the direction of Thibet, joins [it] and gets the name of Chandrabhaga. From this place, travelling by way of Hasial and Bahwal, at the feet of the towns of Ambara and Aknoor||, it descends * The Sobraon branch of the Bari Doab canal goes to Patti. Biar is inexplicable to me. t Sindhuan^ probably Syadwala, 4 m. S. W. of Faridabad. Faridabad^ 31*8 N. 73-37 E. Deg-Ravi> in Montgomery District. Letts' Sheet 12 has Sarai Sidhu^ 42 m. N.N.E. of Multan. J, 33*14 N, 75-45 E. (Letts' Sheet n). The Ain (ii. 310) has "From the summit of Kishtwarah issue two sweet water streams, the one called Chandar and the other Bhaga^ which unite near Kishtwar." ||. Aknoor, 32*42 N. 74*48 E. Ambarah is 2 m. N. of it Tara- kota, given as Trekotta Temple, 3*3 N. 75 E. (Atlas, Sheet 29), 14 its lower course unites with the Chenab. 4. CHENAB its upper course 106 KHULASAT : PANJAB, from the hills with a hundred lustres. Passing near the hill of Tarakota, (a dependency of Jummun,) which is a famous place sacred to Bhawani, at the feet of Ambara and Aknoor [it] emerges from the hills with a hundred lustres * In this place is [seen] a wonderful spectacle and [it is] a theatre of strange things. Its water in per- fect deliciousness equals the elixir vit& t and this is due to the reason that there is a similarity of spelling between Ab'i-Chenab (the water of the Chenab) and Ab-i-fiatat (the water of life). After leaving this place it flows and lower in l8 streams [51. a.] On reaching the foot of the city course o f Bahlulpur, at a distance of 12 kos, it again becomes one stream. Passing by the villages of the pargana of Sialkot and the foot of the town of Sodhra,f it arrives at Wazirabad. Merchants bring sal and the famous teak wood by the river highway from the hilly country of Chamba and elsewhere to Wazirabad, and make profit. Having built rafts with the wood, they carry them for sale along this river to Bhakkar and Thatha. At Wazirabad there is a highway. Then it flows by the feet of the towns of Jakubar [Chuk Bhuttee ?], Diudhath, Bhuna, Mizl, and Hazara.J Four kos from Hazara, on the bank of the river, is situated the tomb of Dhundu Ranjha, who was famous for his love of the lady Hir ; the people of the Panjab have made rare pictures and wonderful verses about the love-madness of this pair, and sing heart-ravishing ditties and songs. After leaving this place, it passes between two hillocks, near the old town of Jind-niwat ( ? ), and forms a * The text is evidently corrupt here. t Behlolpoor, 32*41 N. 71*30 E. Sodhta* 4 m. N.E. of Wazirabad. \ Bhowana, 25 m/N N.E. of Jhang. Husara, 32-8 N. 73' 1 8 E. in Shahpur District (Atlas, Sheet 30). The others cannot be iden- tified. KHULASAT : PANJAB. 107 wonderful spectacle. In this town is the tomb of Shah Burhan, who was famed as a saint, and in whom many people [still] believe. After passing by this place and uniting with the river Bihat [at Timmu] near the town of Jhang-sialan,* (the residence of Hir, who became famous for the love of Ranjha), it proceeds onwards. The fifth river is the BlHAT (Jhilutri). The doab between the Chenab and this river is known as the Chunkat. The Bihat issues from a lake \Ver\ in the hills and having reached the city of Kashmir (*'*., Srinagar) passes through the bazar and streets. Bridges have been built at various places in the town. Many heart-attractive gardens, delightful buildings, charming promenades, and unparalleled houses are situated on its banks. After leaving Kashmir, it is joined by the river Kishengang\ within the limits of Pakli. Thence it reaches the foot of the town of Dangali, the seat of government of the chief of the Ghakkars. Afterwards, passing by Mirpur and other places in the Ghakkar territory, it comes below the city of Jhilum,- in which mahal there is a highway, and gets the name of Jhilum river. Thence, flowing by Girjhak, Zhandna, Shamsabad, Bhera, Khushab, and Khurd-khana, it unites with the waters of the Chenab [at Timmu] near the town of Jhang-sialan, and gets the name of Chenab. junction with the Jhilum. 5. JHILUM its source junction with the Kishan Ganga and with the Chenab * Jhang was founded by Mai Khan, a Slal chieftain, in 1642, and its principal inhabitants are Sials (hence the name), and Khatris. (/. G. vii. 213). t "At Muzaffarabad, just before entering British territory, the Jhilum receives the Kishan Ganga, which rises in Baltistan or Little Tibet." (/. G. vii. 165). Dangali, a Ghakkar stronghold, near Hilan or Hil, a ferry on the Jhilum. (Ain. i. 457 n.) I Mirpur^ 33-10 N. 73"55E. Girjhak^ the Hindu name for Jalalpur (ace. to Cunningham.) Bhera> on the left bank of the Jhilum, 10 m. S. W. of Find Dadan Khan. Khushab, 32*16 N, 72*14 E, The others cannot be traced. 10$ KHULASAT : PANJAB. 6. INDUS : its course in the hills at Attock violent current a black rock fatal to boats The sixth river is the SIND. [51. 6.] Between the Bihat and this river lie the land of Ponkukar* and the Sind Sugar doab. This stream intervenes between Hindustan, Kabulistan, and Zabulistan (Ghaznin). Its source is not known, but according to travellers it issues from the country of the Qalmuqs. After passing by the limits of !Kashghar, Tibbat, and Kafiristan, and the countries of Kashmir, Pakli, and Dantur,f it reaches the land of the Yusufzais. At the foot of Atak Banaras fort, the river Nilab (the Kabul) having come from the directiopr of Kabul, mixes with some other streams. / As the river has little breadth here, it flows narrow and swift with great violence, so that the eyes of beholders cannot rest firmly on it and the sight of onlookers grows dim. Its dashing waves turn the bile offish into water, and break into fragments the rocks and black boulders upon which they beat In this mahal is a highway. The rapidity of the current makes boats travel quickly and arrive at the opposite bank in the twinkling of an eye. On the western bank of this river is a black rock which is called Jalali. \ Boats have often sunk by striking upon this fatal rock and the passengers have been drowned in the river of non-existence. Hence it is always dreaded by boats. The common people say that on the top of this rock is a great tomb which bears the the name of Jalali ; but the [true] reason of its being so * According to Blochmann (A in. i. 487 n ) this is a mistake for Pothwar^ the country between the Jhilum and the Sohan, from Margalah to Hatia. t Dhantawar, a district near the Kashmir frontier, close to Naushahrah, (Cunningham's Anc. Geo. 131.) \ "Below their junction, a dangerous whirlpool eddies between two jutting precipices of black slate, known as Kamalia and Jalalia^ from the names of two famous Roshnai heretics, who were flung from their summits during the reign of Akbar." (/. G. 1.381.) KHULASAT : PANJAB. 109 named is reported to be the following : In the reign of the Emperor Akbar, an Afghan named Jalali* became notorious for wrong-doing, rebellion, and highway robbery. The Emperor once wished to cross this river for the purpose of travelling to and hunting in Kabul. All of a sudden his treasure-boat struck against the rock and went down, and the Emperor remarked, "This rock has proved a Jalali." As a king's word becomes the king of words, thenceforth the rock got the name of Jalali. Near it is a stone house of the Raja of Hudi,t who held sway over this country in former times. On the east bank of the river is situated the fort of Atak. [52. a.] There is no other road for the coming and going of travellers than [that through] the fort. There are pleasant houses overlooking the river ; es- pecially, the houses of the governors on the river-side wall of the tort arc extremely delightful It is a city of temperate climate, midway between Hindustan and Kabulistan, so that on this bank the manners, customs and language are Indian, while on the other bank are the houses of the Afghans and Afghan customs and speech. In short, this river, after leaving this place and passing by the hills of Afghanistan, Khatak (Kohat ?), &c., reaches the plains at SanailJ within the limits of named Jalali by Akbar * "A Hindustani soldier had come among the Afghans, and set up an heretical sect. He gave himself the title of Pir RoshanaL His son Jalala... raised disturbances, shut up the roads between Hindustan and Kabul." (Elliot, v. 450.) t "Babar attacked the Ghakkar capital, Pharwala. It was defended with great bravery by its chief Hati Khan" (7. G. xii. 24.) "Hatia^ which was built by a Gakkhar of the name of Hathi" (Am. i. 486 fl.) t Can it be Sanawan, the northern tahsil of Muzaffargaih District? (/. G. xii.! 193) Attock fort, the ethnic frontier of India. no KHULASAT : PANJAB. The Indus is joined by the other 5 rivers. Bhakkar Thatha. Port of Lahori. Climate of Panjab crops Irrigation by water- wheels. Washing gold. Extent Afghanistan. Thence it passes on to the territories of Baluchistan and Multan. The five rivers of the Panjab, which have been described above, all come out of the northern mountains, and on the other side of Multan within the limits of Baluchistan, they unite with this river one after another. All of them then get the name of Sindh and proceed to the swelling ocean. Then, at the foot of the fort of Bhakkar, it branches off into two and surrounds the fort. This cause has led to the fort being famous for strength and difficulty of conquest. Thence it goes to the mahal of Thatha by way of the land of Sewistan Thirty ko$ from the city of Thatha it ends in the ocean near the famous port- of Lahori. In short, the province of Lahor has a pleasant climate and matchless beauty. Summer is very hot and winter colder in comparison with Hindustan. Its melon and vine are like those of Persia and Turkestan ; its mango resembles that of Hindustan ; its rice is better than that of Bengal, and its sugar-cane sweeter than that of the Deccan. Cultivation depends upon irrigation from wells ; old mechanics make water- wheels which require 360 large and small pieces of wood and more than 100 small pots. So skilful is their mechanism that a pair of oxen can turn such a wheel, at every revolution of which many hundred (?) maunds of water come out of the well in the pots and benefit cultivation. The autumn crops and cheapness of grains depend upon rain. In some places, especially in the rivers Biah and Bihat, they obtain gold by sand- wash- ing. In some places in the northern mountains there are mines of gold, copper, brass, and iron, [52. b] which yield profit to the finders and revenue to the Imperial government. The length of this province from the Sutlej to the KHULASAT : KASHMIR. XXI river Sindh is 180 kos } its breadth from Bhatar to Chaua Kandi 87 kos* Eastwards lies Sirhind, west- wards Multan, northwards Kashmir, southwards Dipal- pur. It has five Sarkars or doabs comprising 316 j mahals, and a revenue of 89 kror y 33 lac, and 80 | Revenue, thousand dam\ (Rs. 22,334,500.) XVII KASHMIR. The Paradise-resembling Province of Kashmir. The capital of this country is SRINAGAR ; it has been inhabited for a long time, and its habitations extend over four leagues. The rivers Bihat (Jhilum), Mar, and Lachmah* pass through it. All classes of artisans, skilled mechanics, experts of every trade and profession and learned and accomplished men live in it. Woollen stuffs, especially shals are well made and sent to the seven climes [of the world] by way of present. Soft and beautiful broad-cloths of wool are manufactured. Pattu (woollen) sheets in two pieces are also well woven. It is not their custom to hold bazars ; | they transact buying and selling in their own houses, j * The Ain (ii. 310) has 'from Bhimbar to Chaukhandi, one of the dependencies ofiSatgarah.' Satgarah is 13 m E, of Gugaira on the Ravi. t Under Akbar the province had 232 mahals, and a revenue of Rs. 13,986,460-9-2. (Jarrett has dropped the zero.) Ain. ii. 315. \ The Mar is the Nalli Mar which flows into the Sind near Shadipur, connecting the Auchar with the DaL (Ain. ii. 35511.) "The canal now known as Lacham Kill brings the waters of the Sind River via Amburher to the northern suburbs of Srinagar, and empties itself into the Mar canal! near the bridge called Kadi Kadal." (Stein, p. 150.) SRINAGAR Woollen manufac- tures 112 KHULASAT : KASHMIR. wooden houses earthquakes Fauna Lake Dal. Writing on barks Holy places : All the houses are built of wood, with four storeys or more. On the ground floor are kept the animals and furniture ; the second storey is the residence ; the third and fourth are for keeping articles. On account of the abundance of wood and the frequency of earthquakes, they do not make the roof with stone or brick. It is not their custom to build walls [of brick or stone] The whole house is built with wood. On the roof tulips are planted and form a nice spectacle in spring. There are no snakes, scorpions, and other oppressors of life in this town. Bugs, lice, gnats, and flies abound. Near the city is a very big lake, some leagues in length, called the Dal. It remains full of delicious and tasteful water all the year round. The water does not get a bad smell even after many days. One side of it adjoins the pargana of Phak* In travelling in the hilly part, men carry big loads on their backs, but boats are main- ly used in transporting heavy articles. Hence, boat- men and carpenters drive a roaring trade. Many Brahmans live here. Though the country has a language of its own [53. a]> yet learned works are written in the Sanskrit language and Hindi characters. They generally write on the bark or leaf of a treef that is peculiar to this country all old books are written on it. The ink made is so excellent that it cannot be washed away. Though the Hindus regard the whole of this country as sacred and narrate wonderful legends [about its sanctity], yet some certain places are described as more * It comprises the tract lying between the east shore of the Anchiar, the range towards the Sind Valley and the hills which enclose the Dal on the east and south." (Stein, p. 157.) t The Ain names it Tug, which Dr. King identifies with the birch Betula Bkojpattrj. (Ain. ii. 351 .) KHULASAT : KASHMIR. 113 sacred [than the rest.] Near Sendfia Brarf* is a spring which remains dry for 6 months. On a fixed day, peasants come to the place for worshipping and slaughter sheep and goats as sacrifices. Through the power of God, water gushes out and irrigates the crops of all the villages. When [the water] inclines to excess, they perform worship in the aforesaid manner and the water decreases. Near it is a fountain named Kukar Nag, the water of which is very light, cool, and tasteful. If a hungry man drinks it he is satiated, while in the case of a satiated man it increases the appetite. In the village of Pampur^ there are 12.000 bighas of SAFFRON-land, which ravish the sight even of fastidious observers. The time for its cultivation is the end of March and the whole of April. The soil is ploughed and softened ; and then with shovels they make small perterres fit for cultivation. The bulbs of saffron are next placed in the soil. In one month they turn green (i.e., send forth sprouts) and at the end of the Ilahi month of September, are fully grown. They do * The Afn (ii, 3^6) has "First in one corner of it is a cavity like a mortar called Stndh brari : when this becomes full, c. ;> " Bring (pargana) contains one of the holiest of Kasmir Tirthas in the sacred spring of the goddess SAMDHYA, the modern Sundabrar. It is situated south of the village of Devalgom, circ. 75'22 long. 33*32 lat. During uncertain periods in the early summer it flows intermittently, three times in the day and three times in the night. Owing to the analogy thus presented to the three-fold recitation of the Gayatri (Samdhyd) t it is held sacred to the goddess Samdhya The Kukar Nag lies about a mile above Bidar. It is a spring of very great volume, referred to as Kukkutesvara" (Stein, p. 1 8 1.). It is 5 m. N.E.E., and Sundabrar^ 4 m. E. of Vernag (Shahabad) in Stein's Map. t 74- 59 E. 34*1 N. Described in Vigne's Kashmir, ii 31. Stein (p. 122) has "Its cultivation has apparently from an early time specially flourished about Padmapura, the present Pampar, where the Udar lands arc still chiefly utilized for it." IS Samdhya spring Kukar Nag Saffron cultivation : its process KHULASAT : KASHMIR. Sacred spring not grow taller than a span, The stalk is of a white colour. When it grows equal to a finger*, it begins to flower ; the flowers cluster one to another up to 8 flowers. And [it puts forth] six lily-like petals. In most of them six filaments, three yellow and three red, are found. The term saffron denotes the three latter. When the flowering is over, the stem turns green. One planting yields flowers for six years. In the first year they are few ; in the second ten to thirty [times the first year's crop] is produced ; in the third year the crop reaches its maximum ; and so on for six years. [Then] the bulbs are dug out. If, however, they are kept in the same place, they deteriorate. Hencef they are taken out and planted elsewhere. In the village of Zewan\ are a spring and a reser- voir, considered sacred [53 b.] "It is believed that the seeds of saffron originate in this spring. At the time when cultivation is begun they perform worship at this spring and make offerings of cow :.nd goat milk. If the offeiing sinks into the water, it is held to be a good omen and the saffron grows to their heart's desire. But if it floats on the water, it is a bad omen. In the midst of Tibbat is a big cave and within it * A-text has dropped the word 'finger.' (Am. ii. 357.) f A-text reads lekan. The Am (ii. 358) has 'but if taken up, they may be profitably transplanted.' J Ibid. There is a Zebanwan peak, 88 1 3 ft. high, 4 m. S. E. Srinagar in Stein's Map. The A in has 'Between Great Tibet and the above-mentioned parganah it a cave.' Amarnath is situated 75*33 E, 34*13 N. (Stein's Map.} See Vigne, ii. 8. Stein (p. 94) writes "It is now the most popular of Kashmirian pilgrimage-places ; in the month of Sravana attracts many thousands of pilgrims from all parts of India. Their goal is a cave formed by a huge fissure on the south side of a snowy peak, 17300 ft. high. In this cave there is a large block of transparent ice formed by the freezing of the water which KHULASAT : KASHMIR, 115 is an idol of ice named AMARNATH. It is a very great shrine. When the Moon comes out of [ her] throne of rays, there is manifested in the cave a bubble of ice ; and it increases daily up to the i$th day, when it measures ten* Imperial yards. When the Moon begins to wane, this figure also decreases, and at the end of the [ lunar ] month, no trace of it remains. This is known to be the figure of Mahadeva, and is considered as an instrument of the success of undertakings. Shakar Nag\ is a fountain which remains dry all the year. In the month of which the pth day falls on Friday, water wells up and flows from morn to eve. Many people assemble [here on pilgrimage.] Banihali has a temple sacred to Durga. Whosoever wishes to learn the future of himself or of his enemy, fills two pots of rice, one in his own name and the other in that of his enemy and the two are left in the temple and its doors are closed. On another day, after performing worship he inquires about the future. Of the two persons, his undertakings are sure to succeed whose pot is found to be filled with roses and saffron ; but that person's affairs are ruined whose pot is found to be full of ashes and rubbish. A greater wonder is that in the case of a quarrel in which the right is hard to ascertain, the two disputants are sent to this temple of Amarnatk cave and idol. Shakar Nag spring Banahal temple : miracle another miracle oozes from the rock. It is worshipped as a self-created (svayambhu) Linga, and is considered the embodiment of Siva." * The Ain (ii. 360) has 'two yards of ihe measure determined by His Majesty.' t Ibid) 361. Not found in Stein's Map, which, the Sheska Nag Peaks, 75-35 E. 34*3 N. (Stein, p. < \ The Banahal Pass is situated 75*19 E. 33*31 "The Banahal Pass, 9200 feet above the sea, is th| the Pir Pantsal Range on which communication stopped by snowfall." (Stein, p, 71). n6 KHULASAT : KASHMIR, miracle Kothar fountain Heromy with two fowls or two goats ; the two animals are administered poison, and the men rub their hands on them. He who has justice on his side sees his poisoned animal reviving, while the other dies. Deosar * is a tank twenty yards square, from the interior of which water gushes out. Whosoever seeks I information about the prosperity of the year and his good or bad prospects, fills an earthen pot with rice, writes his name on its side and having closed its mouth throws it into the water. After a time the pot comes up to the surface of the water. It is then opened; if the rice is found hot and fragrant [54. # ], the year becomes prosperous or his condition happy ; but if mud earth and rubbish cover it, then his condition becomes adverse. At Kothar f is a fountain which remains dry for ir years ; when Jupiter enters Leo, it flows on Thurs- day. In the course of the week it becomes dry; but the next Thursday it is filled [ with water.] And this continues for a year. At the village of Matalhana\ is a forest in which herons perch, and pen-quills are collected. The food of these birds is assigned [by the State.] *. "In Devsar in the village of Balau is a pool called Balau Nag." (Ain. ii. 362.) "The Pargana of Divasar adjoins Shahabad- Ver on the west." (Stein, p. 183.) t Ain. ii. 362. Kothair^ 7 m. S. E. of Islamabad. (Stein's Map.} "The Tirtha of KAPATESVARA, close to the village of Kother. The name of the latter is undoubtedly a derivative of Kapatesvara. The place of pilgrimage is the sacred spring of Papasudana (Sin-removing 1 ). In it Siva is believed to have shown himself in the disguise (kafata) of pieces of wood floating on the water The sacred spring rises in a large circular tank, enclosed by an ancient stone-wall with steps leading into the water." (Stein, P 179)- \ Not given in Map, See Ain. ii. 362 n. KHULASAT : KASHMIR. At Nagam * is spring named NILA NAG ; its basin is 40 bighas and the water is of the purest blue colour, ft is regarded as a place of worship ; and many peo- ple throw away the baggage of their lives into fire (it, burn themselves alive) around it. It is marvellous how they take omens from it : they quarter a walnut and throw it into the water ; if an odd [number of quarters] floats they consider it as an augury of good ; if not, it is considered an evil omen. In ancient times a book f named the Nilmata [Pzirana] came out of the spring. The distinctive features of Kashmir and the descrip ticns of its temples are written in detail in it. The story goes that there is a populous town with lofty buildings under the water. J In the reign of Badu Nil* Nag spring its Pnrana submerged city * "About 5 miles south of Arigom we find a small lake known as Nilanag. Abul Fazl, by some curious misapprehension trans- fers to it the legends of the famous Nilanaga (at Vernag ) He adds to them what appears like a garbled version of the story of the city ubmerged in the Volur lake." (Stein, p. 190). There are two Nagams ; one, ?5'i8 E. 33*32 N., in Shahabad District, only 5 miles N, N. E. of the greater Nilanag ; the other 74*45 E, 33 5& N., a village in Nagam District, near the lesser Nilanng* If we take the former, Abul Fazl is quite correct, and one of Dr. Stein's two strictures is misapplied. t "The oldest extant text which deals in detail with Kasmirian Tirthas is the Nilamata-purana, This work claims to give the sacred legends regarding the origin of the country and the special ordinances which Nila, the lord of Kasmir Nagas, had revealed for the worship and rites to be observed in it. To use Prcf. Butter's words "a real mine of information, regarding the sacred places of Kasmir and their legends." The Nilmata in 'ts present form could not be older than the 6th or ;th century of our era." (Stein, pp. 46,47.) { This legend is related about the Volur lake (Sanskrit, Mafia- fadma.} "The Muni Durvasas, not receiving hospitable reception in this town [Chandrapur], cursed it and foretold irs destruction by water.. .The Mahapadma Naga... con verted the city into a lake, hence-forth his and his family's dwelling place." (Stein, p. 115). KHULASAT : KASHMIR. Holy waters Spring cur ing leprosy. Bhutiser temple Wular lake Soy am volcanic phenomenon Shah, * a Brahman [used to go] under the ground and come out after two or three days, bringing rare presents and giving information [about what he had seen below.] In this neighbourhood, two streams flow apart side by side j one of them is very cold, and the other very hot. It is considered a sacred place The bones of the tenement of flesh are here reduced to ashes. In the midst of the hills is a large tank, into which the bones and ashes of the dead are thrown, this being considered a means of their translation to the neighbour- hood of God. If the meat of any animal is thrown into the water, then it rains and snows heavily. In the village of Birua f is a fountain in which white lepers bathe on Sunday morning and regain their health. Bhutiser \ is a place secred to Mahadeva. If any body goes to it on pilgrimage the sound of [musical] instruments of worship reaches his ears, but nobody knows whence it comes. Near it ?nd adjoining Lesser Thibet is a big lake named Wular, 28 kos in circumference. The river [54. #.] Bihat falls into it and disappears [in it for] a part [of its course.] Near Kargaon is a pass named Soy am. Here for one month, while Jupiter is in Leo, Kashmir from 1422 to 1472 A. D. t Modern Bint ( = Bahu-rupa), 74*39 E. 34*1 N. (Stein, p. 192.) \ Buthiser, 75*1 E. 34*20 N. "A series of interesting temple ruins marks the importance of this Tirlha." (Stein, p. 92 ) g Not found in Map. Soyam is misspelt Evatam in A-text. It is situated 74*10 E. 34*24 N. Stein, (p. 20;) writes, "The sacred site of SVAYAMBHU (the 'Self-created Fire'), known to the villagers as Suyam. ...In certain years steam has been known to issue from the fissures. The ground then becomes sufficiently hot to boil the Sraddha offerings of the pilgrims who at such times flock to the site in great numbers. The phenomenon.. .was last observed in 1876." KHULASAT : KASHMIR. a tract of land, ten chains in area, becomes so hot that the trees burn Kettles filled [with raw articles of food] are placed on the ground and they are cooked [ by the heat] Near it is a populous village. [From] Kamraj* is a defile ; on one side it adjoins Kashghar ; on the west lies Pakli. In the fords of the river the people spread the bark of the Bar tree "f, around which they place stones, so that the current may not sweep it away, After two or three days it is taken out, left in the Sun, and when dry shaken, yielding gold up to three tolas. It is met by a second pass, named Gilgit J, which also adjoins Kashghar. Here gold is got by dust-washing Two days 1 journey from Hayahom is a river [the * "A part of the plains of Kashmir, which lies. ..to the north of.. .the Wulur lake and the Jylum in its course thence to Bara- mnla,...is known by the name of Kamraj" (Vigne, ii. 157.) "The Valley of Kasmir has from early times been divided into two great parts, known by their modern names as Knmraz (Sanskrit, Ktamarajya] and Maraz (Sanskrit Madavarajya.} The boundary was indicated by a line drawn through the capital. The term Kamraz has occasionally been used also in a more restricted sense for the designation of the [the several small] Parganas to the west and north-west of the Volur lake, grouped together in one Pargana for administrative purposes," (Stein, p. 133.) t "The skins of long-haired goals are spread" (A in. ii, 365) But the A-text \&$post~i-darakht*i-bar. \ Mis-spelt GalgasJit in A-text. The Ain (ii. 365) wrongly names it Haehamnn and the river PadmatL Stein writes, "Hayahom (ancient designation ffayasrama)...T\&tQ is a route leading past it to Sardi. ...The temple of the goddess Sarada, among the foremost Tirthas of Kasmir,. ..was well known even far beyond the frontiers of Kasmir. Situated ci re. 74 15 E. 34-48 N. on the right bank of the Kisan- ganga. An ancient temple is still extant at the site. Immediately in front of it the sacred stream of the Madhumati falls into the Kisanganga ." (p. 20^, 207.) Hayahom is given in Stein's Map, 74-18 E. 34'34 N. Gold dust from riven I2O KHULASAT : KASHMIR. Sarada temple PAKLI Madhumati], which comes out of the Dardu country. Gold is found here. On Its bank is a stone temple named Sarada, sacred to Durga and held in great reverence. On every eighth night of the waxing moon,* fa shaking takes place here] The Sarkar of Pakli\ is included in this province. It is 35 kos long and 25 kos broad. The snow falls here as in Turan, and the winter is very rigorous, the rainy season is like that of Hindustan. Three rivers confer plenty on it : the Kishan-Gan^ the Bihat Jhilum), and the Sind. The dialect of this country resembles that of Kashmir and not of Hindustan or Zabulistan. Gram and barley grow very well Apricot, peach, and walnut here grow wild, as also the fruits of Kashmir. Game, horses, mules, cows, buffaloes of medium size, goats, and fowl are plentiful. In short* Kashmir is a heart-attractive kingdom. If we call it a garden of eternal spring or a heaven - founded fortress, it would be only appropriate. If it be called the bower of bliss of jolly spirits or the place of retirement of recluses, it would be quite true. Its water delights the taste ; its waterfalls charm the ear ; its meadows exhilarate the spirit ; its flowers every- where are fresh and innumerable [55. a.] The rose, the tulip, and especially the narcissus, grow wild in abundance. Its Spring and Winter are very wonderful. All fruits, except the shah-alu (plum) and the shah-tut (mulberry), are abundant. Melons, apples, peaches, apricots, and water-melons are excellent. Grapes are plentiful, but seldom good ; they are mostly trained on language crops Praise of Kashmir flowers fruits * The A-text is here defective. The sentence has been com- pleted from the A in. t West of MuzorTarabad. 73 E. 34*10 N. { Nearly the whole of this florid description is borrowed from the A in. (ii. 348), KHULASAT : PANJAB, 151 mulberry trees, Mulberry is little eaten by men, as its leaves are used in feeding silk-worms. Its seeds are brought chiefly from Gilgit and Lesser Tibbat. The shali rice is not of fine quality. Wheat is small in grain, black, and scanty. Mung* is rarely eaten ; pulse and barley are very scarce. The soil is of two kinds : (i) soft and moist, and (2) hard and black. In all parts the division of crops [between landlord and tenant] is at the ratio of 3 to 9. Assessment of crops at special rates and transaction in gold and silver are not customary. A portion of the sair jihat [cess is paid in cash.] Payments in cash and kind are calculated in Khar wars .^ There is a species of sheep resembling the Kuhcha goat ; it is called Hundu\ Its meat is delicious, sweet in taste, and well- flavoured. Strong horses, capable of travelling over hilly ground, are plentiful. Elephants and camels are not found. The cows are black and ugly, but their milk and butter are excellent The staple food is rice, fish, many kinds of liquor, and vegetables. These [ last ] are dried and preserved. After cooking rice they keep it for the night and eat it the next day. Notwithstanding the large population and the scanty means of subsistence, there are few thieves ; but the beggary and meanness of the inhabitants of this country are proverbial. As for their dress, one coat of leather serves for a year. Twenty-six roads lead into this country from Hindustan ; the Bhimbhar and Pakli roads are the best. * A kind of pulse. t A kharwar of grain is 3 maunds and 8 seers of Akbar's standard. (Am. ii. 366) J The \Ain has Handu^ and Jarrett mentions the rejected reading 'like the Kadi! Bhimber is a town, 74*5 E. 33. N. 'The pass known as Pir Pantsal) 11400 feet high. The route which crosses it has 16 silk worms grain Land- tenure : division of crops payment in kind. sheep horses cows Food of the people. No thieves. Routes 122 KHULASAT : PANJAB. miracle Extent. Revenue. The first is nearest and has many branches. Troops mostly enter by the Pir Panjal road. If a cow or horse is slaughtered in these mountains, instantly clouds and wind rise, and it snows and rains. The length of this country from Qambar* to the river Kishan-Ganga is \2okos-, its breadth is 80 kos. In the east lie Peristan and the river Chenab ; east and south, lie Banihal and [the Jummu] mountains ; east and north, Greater Tibbat ; westwards Pakli and the river Kishan-Ganga ; west and south are theGhakkars ; west and north Lesser Tibbat ; on all [55. .] the four sides are sky-reaching mountains. It has 46 mahals, with a revenue of 12 kror, 62 lac, and 85 thousand dam ,f (Bs. 3, 157, 125) and 2, 400 pen-quills. from early days to the present time been the most frequented line of communication from Kasmir to the central part of the Panjab." (Stein, p. 72.) * The Ain has Kambar Ver. Neither name is found in Map. There is, however, a Phamber, 75-34 75*46 E. 33*30 33-40 N Peristan, 75-5 E. 33 N, (Vigne's Map). t Under Akbar the province had 38 mdhah with a revenue of Rs. T 5,52,826. (Ain. ii. 368). CHAHAR GULSHAN. [The numbers in antique type enclosed within square brackets represent the leaves of the manuscript in Khan Bahadur Khuda Bukhsh Khan's Bankipur Oriental Library, while a or b stands for the front or back page of each leaf. The words enclosed in square brackets are the translator's.] BOOK FIRST. NORTHERN INDIA OR HINDUSTAN. (Abridged Translation.) I. DELHI. [36, b] Holy Places of the Hindus : KuRUKHET,at Thanesar, 60 kos. from Delhi, vast gathering of pilgrims at the solar eclipse. HAR MANDIL, in Sambhal, where the last incarnation Kalki will be manifested in the house of a Brahman. NANAK MATA, near Sambhal. NAGAMBUDH, where the Fish incarnation appeared. [37. a.] Badrinath, Badri Kedarnath, Rikhikesh (Hrishikesh), and Bhupa, which is a village on the bank of the Sarsati, 10 kos from Thanesar, and contains an ancient shrine. [37. b.} NARNOL has a deep and sacred well, the water of which flows of itself whenever the amawav (conjunction of the moon) happens to be a Friday, PUAVASKUND [a spring] in Islamabad ; on the summit of a hill, adjoining the pargana of Sahna, 14 kos from Delhi, is a spring from which hot water issues. Mela : The mela of the Ganges. Between Barapula and Tughlaqabad, for a space of 5 or 6 kos^ a vast gathering of the people of the city takes place, esp. on the 9th day of the waxing moon of the month of Kumar (Aswin). The pkeri of Mahadeo, on the I4th of Chait. JOGMAYA, an old place of worship, near the dar%ah of Khawajah Qutbu-d-din and the garden of Mihr-parwar Begum ; men make a pilgrimage to it on the i4th day of the 124 CMAHAR GULSHAN : DELHI. moon in the month of Falgun. Ckkri Debt, where pilgrims as- semble in the months of Kumar and Chait Mela of the Ganges at Garh Mukhteswar [38. a.] which is 40 kos from Delhi ; lacs of pilgrims assemble here in the month of Kartik after the Dewali festival, and the mela lasts 15 days, during which a space of IO or 12 kos on the bank of the Ganges becomes peopled withtnen, [Description of the bazar and the merrymaking on land and on rafts floating on the Ganges.] [38. b] Mela at Hardwar in Bai sakh : the largest gathering takes place in the year in which Jupiter enters the Sign of Aquarius, and is called the Kumbh mela. Lacs of laymen, Faqirs, and Sanyasis assemble here. If any Faqirs of Prag [or Bairagi ?] come here, they are attacked by the Sanyasis. Parsun, the abode of the ascetic Parashar, the chief of hermits (Rishiswar\ 2 kos west of Faridabad, near the hill. Surajkund, a reservoir of water, near the serai of Khawajah Bakhtawar Khan ; pilgrims bathe here on the way to Parsun. The procession of Ramchandra on the Dashahara [39. a,} Tej Santoan (?) Chhri : The Chhri of Khawajah Muainu-d-din Chishti, on the 7th Jamadu-s-sani, at the dargdh of Khawajah Qutbu-d-din. The Chhri of Zahir Pir, goes towards Mewat. The ChkH of Ghazi Mian, Opposite the ghat of Khizrabad, a pilgrim gathering takes place in the month of Bhadon, in honour of the saint Khizr. In the village of Bhath> on the loth Rabiu-s- sani, on the further side of the Jumna, illumination takes place . in honour of Rashid Abdulla. [39. b] The Chhri of Sarwar Sultan, starts on Monday in the Hindu month of Magh and goes to the Lakhi-jungle. The Ckkri of Shah Madar starts from Barapula in the month of Jamadu-l-attal, and reaches Makanpur on the I7th of that month. Elvers t Ganges, [40. a.] Jumna, Sarsati, Hindun, Khagar, and Dhangar. The canal of AH Mardan Khan. [41. a] Statistics of the province : This province has 12 Sarkars, with 248 motels > 45,q88 mauzas (villages), 6,93,56,572^$- bigha of measured land (excluding the Sarkar of Srinagar on the frkirt of the hills, the records of which have not been obtained) ; CHAHAK GULSHAN : DELHI* 13$ a revenue in dam of 1,05,86,35)698 (Rs. 2,64,65,892-7-2) exclud- ing the mahals on the skirt of the hills ; and a revenue in cash of Rs. 1,31,33,115-6 as. for six months. [This would yield Rs. 2,62,66,230 12 as, for the entire year, an amount less than the Rupee equivalent of the dam given above.] [41. &1 DETAILS OF SARKAKS. 1. Shah-Jahanabad 51 mahlas, of which 4 are manduyat (granary ?), and of one more the area is unknown. Remain- ing 46 mahals ; area 1,21,456 big-has ; 5,499 mausas ; revenue, 24,6- ,21,71 j dam (Rs. 61,63,042-13-2). 2. Bidaon...2O mahals ; area 1,65,928 bighas ; 12,177 mauzas; revenue 11,68.89,788 dam (Rs. 29,22,244-1 r-2\ 3. Tijara...i8 mahals ; area 2,00,376^$ bighas ; 253 mauzas \ revenue 3,22,92,880 dam (Rs. 8,07,322). 4 Hissar...28 mahals^ of 7 of which area unknown. Remaining 21 mahals ; area 71,48,184 bighas ; 2,373 mauzas ; revenue 8,83,79,328 dam (Rs 22,09,483-3-2). 5. Rewari...u mahals ; area 13,95,535-5%-^^^ > I ) 2 7 mauzas \ revenue 4,10,79,328 <afo;# (Rs. 10,26,983-3-2) 6. Srinagar...7 mahals ; revenue Srinagar pargana 4 /^ Kohil pargana 31 /^ Chandi parg-ana 10 /:, detached parganas 19 /#r, total revenue 64 /# rf^w (Rs. 1,60,000). 7. Sambhal...49 mahals, of one the statistics are unobtainable. Remaining 48 mahals ; area 47,53,321 bighas ; 7,392 mauzas ; revenue 14,16,73,745 rfaw (Rs. 35,41,843-10). 8. Shahranpur.,.28 mahals t of 2 of which area unknown. Re- maining 26 m\ area 36,20,315 bighas ; 2,197 mauzas \ revenue 10.91,07,306 dam (Rs. 27,27,682-10-5). 9. Sirhind..,38 mahals, of 3 of which area unknown. Remain- ing 35 m. ; area 1,57,86,388 bighas \ revenue 24,32,49,082 ifaw* (Rs. 60,81,2270-10). 10, Faizabad...i2 mattals> 2 of which unsettled, Remaining 10 m. ; area 14,51,707 bighas ; 1,380 mauzas ; revenue 3,72,95*612 efa* (Rs. 9,3 126 CHAHAR GULSHAN : AGRA, ii- Kumaon...7 mahals, of 6 of which the statistics are unobtain- able. Remaining i m. ; 88 mauzas ; revenue 1,68,00,000 dam (Rs. 4,20,000). 12 Narnol...i5 mahals ; area 68,04,356 bigkas ; 1,655 mauzas ; revenue 7,68,32.754 dam (Rs, 19,20,818-13-7). [Some of the above figures must be incorrect, because by adding together the figures for the different Sarkars we get a total (named 'S') which differs from the provincial total (named 'P') written fully in words in the text just above these "Details". The total for Akbar's time is given as 'A 1 : Total. Sarkars. Mahals. Area in bigha. Mauzas. Revenue in dam. S. 12 284 4,Mi56,5665& 34 221 1^5,65,21,536 P. 12 248 6,93,56,57018 45,o88 1,05,86,35,698 A. 8 237 71,26,107^ ... 12,30,12,590] II. AGRA. [45. a.] Statistics of the Province : This Province has 12 Sarkars, comprising 254 mahals % 28,350 mauzas, 5, 58,79,207 T v bighas of measured land, [45. b.] a revenue in dam of 89,66,44,429 ( = Rs.2,24,i6,T 10-11-7), and a revenue in cash of Rs. 1,16,83,129-12 as. [If the last amount be for six months only, then the annual cash revenue would be Rs. 2,33,66,259-833.] DETAILS OF SARKARS. I , Agra 48 mahals, of three of which statistics unobtainable and of two more area unknown. Remaining 43 mahals ; area 2,00,97,473 bighas ; 6,737 mauzas ; revenue 60,24,045 dam (Rs, 1,50,601-2-0.) [In the text the line for kror in the revenue portion of the column has been worm-eaten. The revenue in dam for this Sarkar must have been several kror^ judging from the provincial total. The area is also wrongly given as 30 kror, which I have emended into 2 kror.] CHAHAR GULSHAN : AGRA, 2. Irij 20 makals, of i of which area unknown, and of 3 statis- tics unobtainable. Remaining 16 mahals ; area 3343,777$$ bighas ; 4,259 mauzas, revenue 8,89,61,866 dam {Rs. 22, 24,046-105.) 3, Alwar 43 mahals, of one of which statistics unobtainable. Remaining 42 mahals ; area 24,57,410 bighas ; 1,412 mausas; revenue 9,59,34,232 <foa* (Rs. 23,98,355-12-10). 4 Bayanwan 30 mahals, of 7 of which area unknown. Re- maining 23 mahals ; area 1249,197 bighas ; 1,520 mauzas ; revenue 3,53,67,346 ^w (Rs. 8,84,183-10-5). 5. Sanor (?N 6 mahals ; area 13,94,335 %//^ ; 1,297 mausa* >, revenue 2,00,00,000 dfaw (Rs. 5,00,000.) 6. Sahar 7 mahals ; area 14,27,148 bigkas ; 826 mamas ; revenue 2,45,47,552 ^w (Rs. 6,13,688-12-10). 7. Kanauj 30 mahals ; area 54,62,569 fc^Aar ; 2,115 revenue 10,00,55,467 ^; ^Rs 25,01,386-10-10). 8. Kol 13 mahals ; area 26,69,310 bighas \ i^^ revenue 4,45> 6 9557 ^^ (Rs. 11,14,238-14-10) 9. Gualiar....23 mahals ; area 41,46,148^ ^//aj ; 3,292 mauzas ; revenue 9,96,18,141 dam (Rs. 24,90453-8 5). 10. Mandlaer 15 mahals, of 5 of which statistics not received. Remaining 10 mahals ; area 47,92,462^ bighas ; 2,155 mauzas ; revenue 2,00,21,350 d^wf (Rs. 5,00,533-12). 11. Narwar 23 mahals ; area 41,46,147^1 bighas ; 3,292 <w ; revenue 1,63,60,100 dam (Rs. 4,09,002-8). 12. Kalpi 14 mahals ; area 47,92,565*^- %//^ ; 2,269 dtf ; revenue 4,00,01,132 ^w (Rs 10,00,028-4-10). [The total for all the Sarkars, the Provincial total, and Akbar's total are given below : Total Sarkars, Mahals. Area in bighai, Mauzas. Revenue in dam, S. 12 272 5,59,78,523^ 30,617 59,i3M78S P. 12 254 5>58>79>207& 28 >35o 89,66,44)429 A. 13 262 2,78,62,18945 54,62,50,304.] 128 CHAHAR GULSHAN : PANJA14. III. PAN JAB. [47. a.] Hindu Shrines JAWALAMUKHI SUKANT MAN- DAVI is a place where there is a very [large] tank named Ravansar ; a hill [47- #.] appears on the surface of the water. When sup- pliants pray. "We have come from distant places for the purpose of worshipping [thee ;] honour us by showing thyself," this hill moves and comes close to them and they worship it. If they wish they even step upon it ; when it is over, the hill goes back to its place, If it came by the right side it returns by the left, and if by the left it goes back by the right. ACHAL-TIRTH, 2 kos from the hills, sacred to Syam Kartik the son of Mahadeo. The CHAK-i Guru Nanak, near Hastpurmati (Haibatpur Patti ?), where Govind, the 5th Guru, built a beautiful garden and tank. RAM-TIRTH. BALNATH JOGI, also known as the Tilah of Balnath. There is a lake named... [left blank in the text], near Gujrat, in which crowds of pilgrims bathe on the Mesh-sankranti, i *., the turning of the Moon into the Aries. It is said that the earth has two eyes, one being [the lake of Pushkar near Ajmir] and the other this. Forts. Lahor, [48. a] Sialkot, Atak, Rohtas. [48. .] Dasanpur, the abode of Babalal, the chief of those who know God. The Garden of Ibrahim Khan, in the village of Sodhra which is famous as Ibrahimabad, was laid out by Ali Mardan Khan, in the name of his son Ibrahim Khan ; and a canal was brought from river Tuhi to this garden at a cost of 6 lac of Rupees. [49- a.] Statistics of the Province -There are 5 doabs (instead of Sarkars\ comprising 329 mahals, 30,256 mauzas, 2,43,19,960 bighas of measured land (excluding the mahals whose areas are not known and the mahals outside these 5 doabs^) [49. b] and a revenue in dam of 58,1 1,90,59) dam (Rs. 1,45,29,764-15-17.) [In the number of mauzas the text reads 3 thousand, evidently a mistake for 30 thousand.] CHAHAR GULSHAN : PAN JAB. 139 DETAILS OF DOABS. 1. Bait Jalandhar 69 mahals, of 1 5 of which records not re- ceived, of 7 more area unknown. Remaining 47 mahals ; area 39>39>5 I 8uV bighas ] 5,784 mauza$\ revenue 14,37,50, o69<fo (Rs. 35,93)75i"i 1-70 Hilly 28 mahals 2,71 ,00,070 dam Plain 19 11,65,80,069 47 14,36,80,139 2. Bari d0a 57 mahals^ of 21 of which records not obtained. Remaining 36 mahals ; area 52,39,857 bighas ; 4,678 w##- rt.r ; revenue 19,73,50,057 dam (Rs. 49,33,751-6 10.) 3. Rechna doab 49 mahals , of 6 of which area unknown. Remaining 43 mahals ; area 98,52,010 bighas ; 4,693 mauzas\ revenue 4,26,43,515 dam (Rs. 10,66,087-14-0.) Mandyat (?) 12 mahals 34,13,340 dam Baharjat (?) 26 4,20,30,440 38 4,54,43,780 Parganahs 30 20,12,94,241 4 Chunhat doab 22 mahals, of 3 of which records not re- ceived ; of 5 more area unknown. Remaining 14 mahals area 40,41,809 bighas ; 7,583 mauzas ; revenue 9,26,88,735 dam (Rs. 23,17,218-6.) Hilly ii mahals 1.75,55,699 dam Plain jr^ 7,5i.33>24* >, 22 9,26,88,940 ,, 5. Sindh Sagar doab 48 mahals ', of 17 of which records not received, of 19 more area unknown. Remaining 12 ma- hals \ area 12,56,771^ bighas ; 2,177 mauzas ; revenue I4,05>99.371 <fe> (Rs. 35,14,984-4-5) Hilly 36 mahals 11,10,83,571 dam Plain 12 2,95,15,500 43 14,05,99,071 [The text has dropped by mistake 2 kror in the dam for "Plain/'J 17 130 CHAHAR GULSHAN : MULTAN. 6. Kangra (outside the doab region), 63 mahals, of 32 of which records not received, of 25 others area unknown. Remain- ing 6 makals ; 311 mauzas ; revenue 5,80,53,832 dam (Rs. 14,51,345-12-10.) [The different totals (inclusive of Kangra) are given below : Total Sarkars Mahals Area in bigha Mauzas Revenue in dam S. 5 308 2,43,29,965^ 25,226 67,50,85,579 P. 5 329 2,43,19,960 30,256 58,11,93,599 A. 5 232 1,61,55,643^ 55,94,58,423.] IV. MULTAN. [51. 6.] Statistics: 4 Sarkars, comprising 113 mahah, 9,257 mauzas, 44,54,206^ bighas of measured land (excluding one Sarkar the area of which is not obtainable), a revenue in dam of 18,36,31,458 dam ^Rs. 45,90,786-7-2), and a revenue in money of Rs. 22,86,431 4 as. for six months. [The annual total would be Rs. 45,72,862-8as.] DETAILS OF SARKARS. 1. Multan 53 mahah, of which 17 unsettled. Remaining 36 mahah ; 3,532 mauzas, revenue 12,72,27,^2 dam (Rs. 31, 80,683-12-10.) 2. Bhakkar 15 mahals ; of which 2 are sair. Remaining 13 mahah ; 680 mauzas, revenue 2,43,87,248 dam (Rs. 6,09, 681-3-2.) 3. Dipalpur... 24 mahah, of one of which statistics not obtained. Remaining 23 mahah ; area 44,54,206^ bighas ; 4,643 mauzas ; revenue 2,63,97,258 dam (Rs. 6,59,931-3-2.) 4. Sewistan 21 mahals, of one of which records not received. Remaining 20 mahals ; 347 mauzas, revenue 1,26,29,600 dam (Rs. 3,15,740.) [The three kinds of total are given below : Total Sarkars Makals Area in bigha Mauzas Revenue in dam s - 4 US 4454>2o6J 12,202 19,06,41,458 p - 4 H 3 44,54,206}$ 9,257 18,36,31,458 A- 3 88 32,73,932^ 15,14,03,619.] CHAHAR GULSHAN : KASHMIR. 1^1 V, THAT HA. [53. a.] Statistics. In this Province are 4 Sarkars, com- prising 60 mahals, 1,325 mauzas, a revenue in dam of 6.93,17,526 (Rs. i7o 2 >938-2-5), and a cash revenue of Rs. 66,530-10 as. [The annual total would be Rs. 1,33,061-4 as. Evidently the last number has been incorrectly transcribed ] DETAILS OF SARKARS, 1. Thatha...24 mahals, of which 3 are mir-bahari (admiral's ?). Remaining 2imahals\ 755 mauzas, revenue 3,19,75,648 dam (Rs 7,99,391-3-2). 2. Chakarhalah [spelt in the text Chakhala]...\o mahals, 116 mauzas, revenue 1,72,15,519 dam (Rs 4,30,387-15-7). 3. Hajkan [spelt in the text Khwaj-kari\...\4. mahals> 248 mauzas, revenue 81,69,500 dam (Rs 2,04,237-8.) 4. Nasirpur [spelt in the text Nasirabad]...io mahals^ 176 mauzas } revenue 1,20,56,858 dam (Rs 3,01,421-7-2). [The three kinds of total are given below : Total. Sar. Mah. Area in bigha. Mauz Rev. in dam. S. 4 58 1,295 6,94,17.525, P. 4 60 1,325 6,93,17,526. A. 5 S3 - 6,62,51,393.] VI. KASHMIR. [58. a.] Statistics. Qazi AH fixed the revenue at 30,63,050 kharwar and 1 1 tarak ; each kharwar is 3 maunds 8* sects of Ak- bar's measure [and 16 taraks make one kharwar ; the revenue paid in money being] 1,20,22,183 dam (Rs 3>>554-9- 2 )- Th e revenue settled by Asaf Khanf was 30,79,443, kharwar, of which 10,1 1, * The text wrongly reads bist (twenty) for hasht (eight.) The coirection is from Ain. ii. 366. t "The country having been recently annexed, was assessed very lightly at 22 lacs of kharwars^ which was 2 lacs more than before, the kharwars being reckoned at 16 dam. For this sum, Akbar handed over Kashmir to Mirza Yusuf Khan." (Ain. i. 346). 132 CHAHAR GULSHAN : ORISSA, 330^ kkarwar was paid in money. [The average price of each kharwar in kind was 29 dam, and of each k/iarwar in money I3/T dam. (Am ii. 367). At the latter rate Asaf Khan's cash revenue would be 1,34,70,922 dam (Rs. 3,36,773-0 10.)] The cesses &a/and tamgha* were remitted by the Imperial command. The Province [now] has 7 Sarkars, 75 mahals, of 10 of which the details are not known, 5,352 mauzas, and a revenue of 21,28,20,099 dam (Rs 53,20,502-7-7.) DETAILS OF SARKARS. 1. Environs of the capital (Srinagar),..36 mahals. [Text reads haw eli-e- Kashmir}. 2. Srinagar...3 mahals. 3. Kamraj...22 " 4. Northern region... 7. 5. East and South of Kamraj 1 1 . 6. North and West... some certain mahals. [The three kinds of total are given below : Total Sarkars Mahals Area Mauzas Revenue in dam. S. 6 79 + ? P. 7 75 5,352 21,28,20,099. A. i 38 ... ^21,13,040.] VII. ORISSA. [60. a.} Statistics. This Province has 12 Sarkars ; 258 mahals, of which 29 are unsettled ; measured land 5,95,079^3 bighas of the measure of Bir Singh which, at the rate of 55 yards of Sikandar's measure, would be 1,19,17,590 bighas, but according to the tanab of 60 yards would be 9,01 26.259 bighas ; 26,000 mauzas] revenue in dam not known "In the 39th year [of Akbar's reign], Acaf was sent to Kashmir, Mirza Yusuf Khan having been recalled. ..The revenue was fixed according to the assess- ment of Qazi All, ie.y at one lac of kharwars at 24 dams each." (411.) * Baj was used loosely for any toll or tax. Tamgha meant (i) a demand in excess of the land revenue, or (2) inland tolls, (Am, ii. 367. n.) CHAHAR GULSHAN : BENGAL. 133 DETAILS OF SARKARS, I. Jalesar, 28 mahals. 2. Bhadrak, 7 m 3. Katak, 21 m> 4. Kalang Dandpat, 27 m, 5 Raj Mahendri, 16 m. The statistics of the other Sarkars are not obtainable. [" Sultan Sikandar Lodi introduced another gas (yard) of the breadth of 41 Iskandaris. This was a copper coin mixed with silver. Humayun added a half and it was thus completed to 42. Its length was 32 digits. Till the 3 ist year of the Divine Era (ie., of Akbar's reign), although the Akbar Shahi gaz of 46 ringers was used as a cloth measure, the Iskandari gaz was used for lands. Akbar abolished the variety of measures and brought a medium gaz of 41 digits into general use. He named it the Ilahigaz? (Ain. ii. 61.) Sarkars Mahals Measured land in bigha Mauzas Rev. in d. Provincial Total 12 258 9,01,26,259 26,000 Akbar's Total 5 99 ... 12,57,32,638] VIIL BENGAL. [63. a.} Statistics. This Province has 28 Sarkars^ 1,243 mahals (the records of 1 56 of which have not been received, leav- ing a remainder of 1,187 mahals} ; measured land 3,34,775 bighas, 1,12788 mauzas, and a revenue in dam of 56,29,09,019 dam (Rs. 1,40.72,722 15-7), all [paid] in money, so that the collection is some kror of Rupees, DETAILS OF SARKARS. Sarkars Mahals Mausas. Sarkars Mali ah Mauzas* 1. Udner ... 376 9. Jinnatabad in Bengal 73 1,030 2. Udaipur ... 103 10 Jinnatabad in Kamrup 55 4,469 3. Purnia 11 1,353 n. Mahkar in Kamrup 15 1,865 4. Marauhar ( ? ) 2 51 12 Khalifatabad and 5 Bazoha Barbakabad 5 1,879 Bankar 24 681 6. rinjara -Barbakabad 47 9,327 13. Sharifabad Khalifa- 7. Tajpur Sakhra (or tabad 15 2,899 Pinjara ?) 26 3,389 14. Dakhan kol Sharifa- 8. Bengal Tajpur 30 1,546 bad 29 6,359 '34 CHAHAR GULSHAN : BIHAR, Sarkars Mahah Mausas Sarkars Mahals Mausas 26. Tappa Kori Maljih 25 (of 10 of which area un- known) 13,354 27. Farmandihi Tappa Kori 4 (6,600 mali) 136 28. Satgaon Farman- dihi 7 29. Khuldabad Satgaon 53 30. Sulaimanabad -Khul- dabad 15. Bihar-i-Dakhan Sikol ... 1,030 16. Salimabad near Bihar 2 291 17. Balgaon Salimabad 37 6,6 1 8 18. Sonargaon Balgaon 72 1,897 19. Madaran Sonargaon 52 2,899 20. Fatihabad Madaran 14 3,548 21. Mahmudabad and Fatihabad 38 2,506 22. Ghoraghat Mahmu- dabad 98 23. Sylhet Ghoraghat 16 24. Jinnat ( ? ) - Sylhet 124 7,155 3,885 2,891 25. Maljih Jalih (?) 1(9% mali) 19 [The three kinds of total are Total S. P. A. Sarkars 3i 28 19 Mahals 959 1,243 688 31. Sulaimanabad given below : Area Mauzas 81,558 3)34,775 1,12,788 53 Rev. in. d* [6,29,09,019 47,27,26,681] IX. BIHAR. [64. b] Statistics. This Province has 8 Sarkats, 252 mahals, [65. #] 55476 mauzaS) a revenue in dam of 37,84,17,380 dam (Rs. 94,60,434-8 as.) and a revenue in money of Rs. 94,65,432-8 as. [The text here incorrectly adds "for six months/'l DETAILS OF SARKARS. 1. Bihar (Patna)...58 mahals, of 7 of which details not known and of ii others area unknown. Remaining 40 mahals ; area 67,09,647 \\ bighas ; 17,036 mauzas ; revenue 1741,391 dam (Rs. 43>534'i2-5). 2. Tirhut...i02 mahals, of 19 of which area unknown. Remain- ing 83 mahals ; 8,246 mauzas ; revenue 2,94,83,210 dam (Rs. 7,37,o8o-4 as.). 3. Champaran...3 mahals ; 1,264 mauzas ; revenue 96,24,121 dam (Rs. 2,40,603-0-5). CHAHAR GULSHAN : ALLAHABAD, 4 Hajipur...u mahals \ 5,676 mauzas ; revenue 4,53,27,400 dam(Rs. 11,33,185), 5. Rohtas...7 mahals, of 3 of which area unknown. Remaining 4 mahals ; area 10,45,275 bighas ; 7,220 mauzas ; revenue 2,82,82,017 dam (Rs. 7,07,050-6-10). 6. Saran...27 mahals^ of 5 of which area unknown. Remaining 22 mahals \ area 22,37,856 bighas ; 5,772 mauzas ; revenue 3,53,28,800 <&;;/ (Rs. 8,83,220) 7. Shahabad . . . r 2 mahals, of 3 of which records not obtained. Remaining 9 mahals ; area 18,81,368 z]gr//<tf ; 4,545 mauzas ; revenue 2,84,12,018 dfo*# (Rs 7,10,300-7-2 . 8. Monghyr...4O ma/ia/s, of 6 of which records not received. Remaining 34 mahals ; area 12,78,698^ bighas ; 5,516 mauzas ; revenue 4,02,23,024 dam (Rs 10,05,575-9-7;. [Some of the above figures must be inaccurate, especially the revenue of the Sarkar of Bihar, which was 8,01,96,390 dam under Akbar. The three kinds of total arc given below : Total Sarkar s Mahals. Area in bigha Mauzas Rev. in dam. S. 8 260 i,3i52,844 55,275 21,84,21,981 P. 8 252 55,476 37,84,17,380 A. 7 200 24,44,120 ... 22,19,19,404,] X. ALLAHABAD. [65. b,} Saint* Shaikh MINA, a saint of Lucknow, was in his childhood brought up in the service of Shaikh Qawamu-d-din Abrakhi. Then he became a disciple of Shaikh Sarang. It is said that Shaikh Qawamu-d-din had a son named Mina, who owing to his [thoughtless] youth went to one of the kings for service. As the kings of this country were often the disciples of this family, the father was displeased. Although [the son] was in service, the father was not at all pleased with him. He adopted a dervish named Shaikh Alam as his son, and gave him the name of Mina. He found favour in the eyes of the Shaikh (Qawam) and reached the perfection of holiness. He (Qawam) cursed his son, [66. a,] and on that very day the son died. His (Mina's) tomb is at Lucknow. 136 CHAHAR GULSHAN : ALLAHABAD. [67. a] Hindu Shrine. Prayag (Allahabad.) In former times there was a saw here ; if a man cut off his head with it, every desire that he had was fulfilled. In the reign of Shah Jahan this practice was forbidden. [67- b."\ Statistics This province has 17 Sarkars, 269 mahals , [or, excluding the Sarkars whose records are not to hand] 156 mahals ; 47,328 mauzas ; measured land [68. <?.] i,97>O3,983-| bighaS) excluding the unsettled mahals, the area and number of mauzas of which are not known; revenue in dam 29,02.32,270 dam (Rs. 72,55,806-12 as.}, revenue in money Rs, 63,00,925 for 12 months. DETAILS or SARKARS. 1. Allahabad !! mahals ; area I5,53,6o7| bighas ; 5,512 mauzas ; reveuue 3,87,65,894 dam (Rs. 9,69,147-5-7). 2. Muhammadabad Benares 9 mahals, of one of which area unknown. Remaining 8 mahals ; area 4,53,354^ bighas ; 1,420 mauzas ; revenue 54,30,000 dam. (Rs. 1,35,750). 3. Ghazipur 17 mahals; area I7,33,349i& bighas ; 5,464 mauzas ; revenue 1,45,53,445 dam (Rs. 3,63,836-1). 4. Kora 8 mahals ; area 13,57,817^- bighas \ 1,181 mauzas ; revenue 5,75,67,342 <&;# (Rs. 14,39,183-8-10.) 5. Barhar* 18 mahals. of 3 of which details not received and of 2 more area unknown. Remaining 13 mahals ; area 3.29,368 bighas ; 1,218 mauzas ; revenue 1.73,78,800 dfow (Rs. 4,34,470.) 6. Karrah --12 mahals ^ of 2 of which area not known. Re- maining 10 mahals area 14,17,127 bighas ; 2,346 mauzas ; revenue 3,71,65,617 dfow (Rs. 9,29,140-6-5) [68. .]. 7. Jaunpur -.42 mahals ; of 2 of which area unknown. Re- maining 40 mahals ; area 54,51, iiSJf /Vtaf ; 19,361 jfifew ; revenue 10,38,83.516 dam (Rs. 25,97,087-14-5) * Not identified, as the word seems to have been incorrectly transcribed in the text. There is no name in the A in at all approaching it in form. CHAHAR GULSHAN : OTOH. f$$f : 8. Kalinjar ...... 10 mahals > of 3 of which area not Remaining 7 mahals \ area 43,38,324 bighas ; 1,375 revenue 4,70,00,030 dam (Rs, 11,75,000-12.) 9, Manikpur ----- 14 mahals ; area 21,01,324-3^ bighas ; 3,57$ mauzas ; revenue 6,02,50,818 dam (Rs 15,06,270-7-2,) to, Chunarah -15 makals\ area 7,40,686!$ bighas ; i,34| mauzas , revenue 35,00,000 dfow (Rs. 87,500) 11-17. Bitha* and other Sarkars, which are unregulated an$ whose areas have not reached the Court. [The three kinds of total are given below : Total Sarltars Mahals Area in bigha Mauzas Rev. in dqn^ S. ii + ? 156 1,93,76*07718 42,797 37,54,95,432, P. 17 156 J,97,o3,9B3lS 47,328 29,02,32,270- A. 10 177 39,68,oi8 A ...... 21,24,27,819} XL OUDH. [69. #.] Statistics This province has 5 Sarkars t with 149 mahals, $2,691 mauzas, measured land 1,90,22,908 bighas > a revenue in dam of 33,24,00,617 dam (Rs. 83,10,015-6-10), and a revenue in money of Rs. 41,55,420-12 as. for six months. [This gives an annual revenue of Rs 83,10,841-8 as.] DETAILS OF SARKARS. [70 a.] 1. Suburban area of Oudh 22 mahals ; area 43,83,869 bighas ; 7,846 mauzas ; revenue 5,72,93,615 dam (Rs. 14,32,340-6.) 2. Bahraich 12 mahals, of 4 of which area not known, Re- maining Sm ; area 27,52,378 bighas j 6,838 mauzas ; revenue 2,51)97,173 dam (Rs. 6,29,929-5-2.) 3. Gorakhpur 57 mahals, of i of which statistics unobtain- able, and of 2 more area not known. Remaining 54 m. ; area 53,04,601 bighas ; 9,641 mauzas ; revenue 11,19,13,684 dam (Rs. 27,97,842-1-7.) 4. Lucknow......34 mahals ; 17,076 mauzas ; revenue 5,52,00,005 dam (Rs. 13,80,000-1.) * Evidently the Bathhhora of Am. ii. i66 f 18 138 CHAHAR GULSHAN : AJMR. 5. Khairabad 24 mahals, of one of which area unknown. Remaining 23 m. ; area 65,46,458 bighas ; 11,460 mauzas ; revenue 8,17,95,850 dam (Rs. 20,44,896-4.) [The three kinds of total are given below : Total Sarkars Mahals Area in bigha Mauaas Rev. in dam. S. 5 149 1,89,87,306 52,861 33>M>oo,327 P. 5 149 1,90,22,908 52,691 33> 2 4>6i7 A. 5 133 1,01,71,180 ... 20,17,58,172] XII. AJMIR. [71. a.] Towns. Chitor, [71. b.} Fort of Bitli (Ajmir), Sam- bhar, and Jaipur. [72. a.] Statistics This province has 8 Sarkars^ with 238 mahals, 7,905 mauzas, measured land 1,74,09,684 bighas, excluding the ma/ials whose area and statistics are not known, a revenue in dam of 70,11,93,170 dam (Rs. 1,75,29,829-4) and a revenue in money of Rs. 88,28,232-12 as. [Evidently the last figure is for 6 months ; the total annual revenue then would be Rs. 1,76,56, 465-8.] DETAILS OF SARKARS. 1. Ajmir 30 mahals, of 2 of which statistics not received, and of 3 more area unknown. Remaining 25/0. ; area 64,25,670 bighas y 1,176 mauzas ; revenue 1,06,47,773 dam (Rs. 2,66, 194-5-2.) 2. Chitor 35 mahals, of which 28 are in jagir. Remaining 7m ; area 9,3 5, 507 J$ bighas ; 250 mauzas ; revenue 9,85,21,787 dam (Rs. 24,63,044-10-10.) 3. Jodhpur 27 mahals, of 21 of which statistics not received, and of 6 others area unknown. 1,000 mauzas ; revenue 26,52,00,000 dam (Rs. 66,30,000.) 4. Ranthambhor S^maAa!s,of2 of which statistics not to hand, and of 3 more area unknown. Remaining 78^. ; area 82,64,551 J|- bighas ; 830 mauzas; revenue 12,34,14,375 dam (Rs. 30,85,359-6.) CHAHAR GULSHAN : GtTJRAT. 5 Nagor 31 mahals, of one of which statistics not obtainable, and of 28 more area unknown. Rem* 2m. ; area 17,83,354 bighas ; 1,664 mauzas ; revenue 7,95,60,686 dam (Rs, 19, 89,017-2-5.) 6. Jesalmir 8 mahals ; statistics wanting ; revenue 87,30,000 dam (Rs. 2,18,250.) 7 Bikanir (the abode of Raja Karan*) area and details not known; revenue 1 ,00,00,000 dam (Rs. 2,50,000.) 8. Kumbhalmir f revenue 50,80,000 dam (Rs. 1,27,000.) [The three kinds of total are given below : Total Sar. Mah. Area in bigha Mauzas Rev. in dam. S. 8 214 1,74,09,083^ 4,920 60,11,54,621 p - 8 238 1,74,09,684 7,905 70,11,93,170 A. 7 197 2,14,35,9415^ 28,84,01,557.] XIII. GUJRAT. [74. b>] Holy places of the Hindus. Somnath, Bhal-ka- tirth, Mul, [75. a.] Uana where there are 2 reservoirs, the Jumna and the Ganges, the fish of both of which have 3 eyes, J Manglor, Satrunjaya a fort on a hill, not much inhabited, but considered very sacred by the Jains, and Dwarka. [75. b} Towns. Ahmadabad, Mahmudabad,!! Jhalwar, Cham- panir, Surat, Rander, Broach, Sorath (Kathiawar), [76. a.] Pattan on the sea-coast and having a stone fort, New Surat,1f Salher and Mulher, and Kathi** a village. Statistics. The province has 10 Sarkars, with 256 mahals, of 39 of which records not received ; 10,370 mauzasj measured land * Kurrun succeeded his father Rae Sing in 1632 A. D. and died about 1660 A.D. (Tod, ii. 1018.) t It may be a mistake for Sirohi. \ Am. ii. 247. Pali tan a. j| 12 kos from Ahmadabad. (Am. ii. 241.) Jhalwar (Ibid, 242.) t Ibid) 245. ** The Am. (ii. 248) speaks of the Kathis as a tribe living in Baghelkhand ; our text wrongly calls them a milage. CHAHAR GULSHAN : GUJRAT, (excluding 170 mahals the record of whose area is unobtainable) *27>49,374T&r bighas \ revenue in dam 53,02,89,319 dam (Rs. 1,32, 57,232-15-7) and revenue in money (excluding those makals whose area and statistics are not to hand) Rs. 7o,28,326-[76. b.} 9 as. for six months.* [This would yield an annual revenue of Rs. 1,40,56,653-2 as.] DETAILS OF SARKARS. 1. Gujrat (Ahmadabad) ...... 34 maJtals of 6 of which records not received and of S others area not known. Remaining 2Om. ; area 63,76,319^ bighas ; 1,880 mauzas ; revenue 27,11,27, 162 dam (Rs. 67,78,179-0-10) 2. Baroda ...... 4 mahals, of 2 of which area unknown. Remaining 2m. ; area 9*85,41 5M bights ; 335 mauzas ; revenue 2,92,11, 846 dam (Rs. 7,30,296-2-5) 3. Champanir ...... 10 mahals, oi 4 of which area not known. Remaining 6m. ; area 3,72,184!-! bighas ; 492 mauzas ; revenue 3,27,42,695 dam (Rs. 8,18,567-6) 4. Pattan ...... 16 mahals, of 5 of which records not received and of 7 more area not known Remaining ^.m ; area 24,23,308 bighas ; 1,284 mauzas ; revenue 4,06,47,362 dam (Rs. 10,16, 184-0-10) 5- Surat ..... 37 mahals, of which 6 arej'/iarat (jungles ?) and of 15 more area not known. Rem. 16 m ; area 7,23,000 bighas ; 330 mauzas ; revenue 7,86,22,832 dam (Rs. 19,65,570-12-10). 6. Islamnagar ...... 1 5 mahals, of which 5 are mints, and of 10 others area not received ; 730 mauzas. 7. Broach ...... 14 mahals, of 4 of which statistics not to hand. Remaining lorn. ; area 28,69,141^ biglias ; 584 mauzas ; revenue 5165,01,619 dam (Rs. 14,12,540-7-7) 8. Sorath (Kathiawar) ...... 63 mahals, of 7 of which statistics not to hand. Remaining 56^. ; 1,754 mauzas ; revenue 4,68,50, s. 11,71,259-11-2.) * After this the text has hkan mutk besiar hasil ast. If we suppose sair to be understood after besiar (from the example of p. 80. b,) then it may mean 'much sair (cess) is realised [in this] country. 1 CHAttAR GULSHAN : MALWA, t4| | 9. Godhra 1 1 mahals ; area not known ; 209 mamas ; revenue 16,20,100 dam (Rs. 40,502-8) 10. Nandot 12 mahals, of which 4 are unsettled. Remaining 8 m. j 119 mausas. [The three kinds of total are given below : Total Sarkars Mahals Area in bigha Mauzas Rev in dam* S. 10 216 1,37,49,3^8 7,717 55,73,24,004 P- 10 256 i,27,49,374& 10 >37o 53,02,89,319 A. 9 138 1,69,36,3775*0 - 43,68,22,301] XIV. MALWA. [79. b] Towns. Ujjain, Chanderi, Tumun where mermen are found on the bank of the Betwa, Mandu, Dhar, and Hindia. [80. .] Statistics The Province has 11 Sarkars, with 259 mahals \ 18,678 mauzaS) measured land (excluding the 119 mahals whose area has not been received) 1,29,64,538 bighas, revenue in dam 36,01,83,719 dam (Rs. 90,04,592-15-7), and [80 b] revenue in money Rs 45,02,874 for six months ;* [this would yield an annual revenue of Rs. 90,05.748.] DETALS OF SARKARS. 1. Ujjain. ..13 mahals, of 2 of which records not received. Re- maining ii m. \ area 42,02,057 bighas ; 1,561 mauzas ;. revenue 5,24,72,658 dam (Rs. 13,11,816-7-2). 2. Chanderi ...49 mahals t of which one mahal is amran (?) Remaining 48 m ; 3,353 mauzas ; revenue 9,24,83,592 dam (Rs. 23,12,089-12-10). 3. Raisinf ...38 mahals, of 11 of which details not to hand, of one other area not known, and of 26 more records of * After this the text reads lekan een mulk besfar ser basil ast aksar a* shashmak do chandpidast o seh chand. + Our text names it Phil or Bhil This may be (i) a mistake for. Raisin which has 35 mahals or (2) a corruption of Bhilsa> which is one of the mahals of Raisin (Ain< ii. 199), 142 CHAHAR GULSHAN : MALWA. statistics not received. Area 89,850 bigkas ; 8,774 mauzas ; revenue 8,14,16,346 darn (Rs. 20,35,408-10-5) 4. Shahabad...7 mahals, area 10,49,586 big/ias ; 366 mauzas ; revenue 90 lac dam (Rs. 2,25,000). 5. Sarangpur...24 mahals, of one of which details unobtainable and of 7 others area not known. Remaining 16 mahals ; area 39,93,213 bigkas ; 2,323 mauzas ; revenue 1,02,71,663 dam (Rs. 2,56,791-9-2). 6. Garh*...55 mahals, of 49 of which statistics not received. Remaining 6 mahals ; 759 mauzas ; revenue 2,21,30,000 dam (Rs. 5,53> 2 5)- 7. Gagron...i2 mahals -, of 5 of which details not obtained. Remaining 7 mahals ; area 6,63,374 bighas ; 300 mauzas ; revenue 1,74,42,700 dfo;# (Rs 4,36,067-8). 8. Kotri Parayah...9 mahals, of 5 of which area not known. Remaining 4 mahals ; area 6,12,508^-^ bighas ; 702 mauzas ; revenue 1,82,33,683 dam(}^s. 4,55,592-1-2). 9. Mandsor...i6 mahals, of 4 of which details not to hand and of ii others area not obtained Remaining i mahal ; area 43,400 bighas ; 1,061 mauzas ; revenue [blank] 10. Mandu...23 mahals, of 4 of which details not to hand and of 4 others area not known. Remaining 15 mahals ; area 17,05,818^ bighas ; 1,553 ^auzas ; revenue 2,94,47,452 dam (Rs 7,36,188-12-10). H. Htndiaf...i3 mahals, of 8 of which details not obtained and of 4 others area not known. Remaining i mahal ; area 4,91,627 bighas ; 833 mauzas ; revenue 11,45,000 dtow (Rs. 28,625) [The three kinds of total are given below : Tot. Sarkars Mahals Area in bigha Mauzas Rev. in dam. S. ii 258 1,28,51,434 21,585 ,33,40,43,094 P. n 259 1,29,64,538 18,678 36,01,83,719 ; A. 12 301 42,66,22 1 g 6 g . 24,06,95,052] '* This^is identical with the Sarkar of Kanauj of Ain ii. 192, which contains 57. mahals^ one of them being named Garka. t Our text incorrectly reads Handia. BOOK SECOND. SOUTHERN INDIA OR DEOOAN. (Full Translation). [84. a ] That portion of the kingdom of the Deccan which came into the possession of the Chaghtai [Mughal] Emperors, was marked out into six Subahs (provinces), each with a certain number of Sarkars (districts). The Deccctn is a very spacious country, on three sides [84 b] bordering on the ocean. Many Paligars live here. In the Deccani language, Paligar is the name for Rajas and chiefs. When these provinces were included in the protected Empire [of Delhi], they were divided thus : (i) the province of Berar, (2) the province of Khandesh, (3) the pro- vince of Aurangabad KhujLsta-buniad ("of auspicious foundation"), (4) the province of Haidarabad Farkhanda-buniad ( u of fortunate foundation") also called Daru-1-jihad s "thc seat of holy war"), (5) the province of Muhammadabad Dtdar, also called Zafarabad ("the abode of victory"), and (6) the province of Bijapur Daru-1- zafar ("the seat of victory"). Revenue. At the end of the reign of his Majesty now in heaven (Aurangzib), these six provinces paid to the Treasury, at the six- monthly rate, Rs. 17,92,50,735-12! as, and for the entire year R S 35*85,01,470 in money. The revenue in dam of these pro- vinces was formerly 6,20,02,22,140 dam (Rs. 15,50,05,553-8^. As some other kingdoms of the Deccan have been added to the protected Empire, the revenue in dam now paid is 14,35,87,40,135 dam (Rs. 35,89,68,503-6). XV. BERARJ Jj * "V.T &. W 1 A\ Its original name was Warda-tat> ^Irjjff ^Wwg^uS name a river and tat meaning c bank'. It i4|iwUtei)ift -me* lecoil ay jVCCt ffiO* The Wardha rises in the hills of Be%^\rhhindwara, ^A^ (/. G. v. 242.) 144 CHAHAR GULSHAN : BERAR. climate. Length from Batiala to Biragarh 200 kos and breadth from Bidar to Hindia 180 kos. Eastwards lies Biragarh, north Hindia, south Telingana, west [85. a.] Mahkar. Mahkar* has much inhabited territory. [This province is situated! between two hills ; the one in the south is called BANDAHf and on it are Gawil(2\'22 N. 77- 18 E.), Narnala (21, 18 N. 77 E.), and Melgarh\ and that which is in the north is named SAHYA and on it are Mahor and Ramgark. Its climate is excellent. The Gang Gotami, which is also called Ganga Godavati, its name Gotami being due to its connection with the sage Gotam, issues from the Sahya hill near Nassik, and comes from Ahmadnagar to Berar, When Jupiter enters Leo, men having come from dis- tant places worship it. The other rivers are the Napi (?), the Tapti, and the Purna ; this [last] issues from Dewalgaon Another stream comes out of the spring of the Napi, and [yet] another, the Lunia^ flows near Deogaon. In this country, the Chaudhuri is called Deshmukh, the Qanongo Deshpande, the Muqaddam Patel^ and the Patwari Kulkarni Ehchpur is a large town ; it was the capital of the kings of this country. Here a flower is found, violet-coloured and very sweet-scented ; it is called bhun champa^ Gawil is a large fort without an equal. It contains a spring with [the water of] which they give lustre to weapons. Punar\\ has a stone fort on a hillock ; two streams enclose it on three sides Kherla is a stone fort on the plain. Inside it is a small circular hillock which is worshipped. Four kos from it is a well which turns into stone the bone of any * Evidently the modern Buldana district of Berar. It contains the town of Maikur> 20. 9 N. 76. 22 E, (Letts, Sheet 3'.) t Banda^ a branch of the Satpura range. Melghat, 2I.42N. 77.3E, Mahur^ I9.5IN. 77.58 E., but not "on a hill." Ramgarh cannot be the town of the same name situated 22'47N. 81 E. (7. G. xi. 447.) I Evidently a mistake for Murna, which rises near Dongaom. (Letts, Sheet 3 ) Ain. ii. 229 . |i Pannera^ on the bend of a river, 2o*4oN. 76.7E. (Letts, Sheet 6) and not Pownaur, 20 CHAHAR GtJLSHAK : BERAR. ^4$ v animal that falls into it. Biragarh has a diamond mine ; cloth $$. well [woven] here. Besides this, [it has a spring ; whatever] fallsT into it, is turned into stone. Mahur is an excellent fort [8&< ] on a hill ; there is a temple here, sacred to Durga and known in this country as Jagdatid (Jagaddhatri.) Manik doorg (19-46 N. 79'9E ) is a fort on a hill, surrounded by many deserts ; near it is Chandci. Telangdna^ which is also called Telangia, has a mine of steel. Heart-ravishing stone-pesttes are made [here.] In this country a cock is found, the blood and bone of which are black. Lunar* is the name of a tuppa (division) of Mokheir ; on it is a great place of worship. VISHNU GAYA : Three places bear the marks of Gaya ; one is in the province of Bihar and is called Brahma Gaya, the second is Shiva Gaya in Bijapur, and this [third one is a reservoir, very deep, one kos in length and breadth, and situated on a hillock. The water is saline, but on digging from the middle to the border, sweet water issues f The materials of soap and glass are found in it There is another spring on the summit of a hill ; its mouth, [that is] the place whence the water pours forth, has been made like a cow's mouth (go-mukfi) in figure The water never flows from it to the reservoir, except when the amdwas [conjunction of the moon] falls on a Monday. Monkeys abound here. Within its limits are four temples hewen out of the rock in the middle parts of the hills J This province has 10 Sarkars and 200 parganas \ the total number of its mauzas (villages) is 10,008 ; its measured land is * "Lunar is a place of great sanctity. ..The Brahmans call it Bishan Gaya" (Ain. ii. 230.) "The Province has but one natural lake, the salt lake of LONAR, in Buldana District. It is shut in by a ridge of well-wooded hills, and is perfectly circular. The circumference is 5$ miles" (/. G* v. 259*) "The salt lake of Lonar (19.58.50 N. 76. 33 E.), the fabled den of the demon-giant Lonasur, who was overcome by an incarnation of Vishnu. ..The salt is chiefly used for the manufacture of country soap." (7. G. viii. 489.) t The Ain has, "The water is brackish, but when taken from the centre or at the sides, it is sweet " J "In the sides of the hill 24 temples have been cut each containing re markable idols." (Ain. ii. 231.) 19 146 CHAHAR GULSHAN : BERAR. 2,00,28, 100 bighas and 13 bisua, excluding the mahals whose area has not reached the Court. [86. a] Revenue in dam, 90,24,00,000 dam (Rs 2,25,60,000); revenue in money Rs. 1,14,90,043 12 as. [If the last amount be for six months, then the annual revenue in money would be Rs 2,29,80,0878 as ] DETAILS OF SARKARS.* . 1 . Pathri ii mahals \ 546 mauzas, area 6.44323- bighas. [The figure for lac in the column of bighas has been evidently dropped.] 2. Basim 8 mahals, 307 mauzas, area 19,24,181 bighas. 3. Pitalwari 9 mahals, 109 mauzas, area 49,01 2^ bighas. 4. Pandr 4 mahals, 734 mauzas, area 7,93,023^$ bighas. 5. Kallam 28 mahals, of 3 of which area unobtainable. Remaining 25 mahals, 1880 mauzas, area 19,89,880 bighas. 6. Mahur 21 mahals, of one of which area unobtainable. Rem. 20 m ; 1188 mauzas, area 21,57,999 big/ias. 7. Mohkar 22 mahals, 827 mauzas, area 23,18,830 bighas. 8. Narnala 37 mahals, of 3 of which area unknown. Rem. 34 m ; 1589 mauzas, area 48,18,541 bighas. 9. Gawil 46 mahals, of 5 of which area unobtainable, Rem. 41 m ; 2.335 mauzas, area 43,85,326 bighas, IO. Kherla 24 mahals, of 12 of which statistics not received. Rem. 12 m ; 3,711 mauzas. area 7,3O,779l bighas. [The three kinds of total are given below : Sarkars Mahals Mauzas Area in bigha Revenue in dam S. 10 210 12,307 1,91,74,016^ P. 10 200 10,008 2,oo,28,ioojg 90,24,00,000. A. 16 242 64,26,03,272] * "Berar has now six Districts, Akola, Buldana, Basim, Amraoti, Ellich- pur, and Wun." (/. G. v. 258.) The A in. (ii. 231) gives to the Province 16 SarkarS) of which 14 only are named in detail, viz., the above ten and Manik drug* Telinganah t Ramgarh, and Chanda. The 14 have a total of 242 parganas (incorrectly given by Jarrett as 142), and a revenue of 64,60,07,246 dam, (though the provincial total of the revenue is given by Abul Fazl as 64, 26,03,272.) CHAHAR GULSHAN : KHANDESH. I4J? XVI. KHANDESH, In the reign of the Emperor Akbar, when this province was presented to Prince Danial [as his viceroyalty], it got the name of Dandesh. This province is in the second climate. Length from Borgaon adjoining Hindia [86. .] to Laling adjoining Ahmadnagar, 75 kos. Eastwards lies Berar, north Malwa, south Galna (Jalna),* west Mandhu in Gujrat. Two streams rise bet- ween Gondwana and Berar. The Tapti rises in the same direction, and the Puma [unites with it at Changdevi.] And the Girni- flows [into it] near Choprah. Its air increases cheerfulness ; winter is temperate here. The chief cultivation \sjawari, which,*}* in some places, bears three crops in the year. Its stalk is so delicate and pleasant in flavour that it is considered as a sort of fruit. Rice grows well ; betel leaf is abundant and good. Siri- safand bhirun, two kinds of cloth, are manufactured at Dharan- gaon. [20*57 N. 75*16 E. in Letts, Sheet 6.] Asir is a lofty fort and the residence of the governor ; it has three other forts [as its dependencies.] It is itself unrivalled in strength and height. At its foot is a large and populous town. Burhanpur is a large town on the bank of the Tapti. Its situation is 1 18^20' long, and 29*40' lat.J It has many gardens. Sandal grows here. AHMADNAGAR has a strong fort and many gardens, of which * Jalna 19-53 N. 76 E. t Text reads barkhe ja shali ham se bar barad^ tar-i*an chunan &c. In the translation I have followed the Ain. \ Or, calculating from Greenwich, 21. 18/33" N, 76.16/26" E. "Half a mile to the east of the city stands the fort, built of stone, cir- cular in shape, about \\ miles in circumference, and surrounded by a wide and deep moat." (/. G. i. 109.) The garden of Husht Behist (8 heavens), enclosing a palace, was formed north of the fort by Boorhan Nizam Shah I* (Ferishta, in. 298) Mrs. C. Mackenzie wrote on n April, 1850, "Colonel and Mrs. Parr took us to see a fine villa of the kings of [Ahmad*] Nagar, called the Ferrier Bagh> It is rare that one finds any remains of the dwellings of the Mussalman conquerors : durability seems to belong only to their tombs. 148 CHAHAR GULSHAN: KHANDESH. Fara-bagh is unparalleled in the power of increasing cheerfulness, and Behisht-bagh is exactly a sample of the heaven above and heart- attractive. After Shaikh Abul Fazl had accomplished the con- quest of Asir, he was ordered to conquer Ahmadnagar and also to suppress the rebellion of Rajwari (?) and other wicked men of this zilla (1597 A. D.") At that time CHAND BIBI, the sister of Ibrahim Nizam, giving him the title of Nizamu-1-mulk, placed him on the throne, and herself discharged the work of the durbar (Court.) Shaikh Abul Fazl, besieging the fort [87. <*], made the Condition of the [men of the] fort so hard that at last Chand Bibi, finding that she had no power of resistance and disdaining to be made captive, drowned herself* in the ocean of non-existence in a well (bdwli) within the male apartments ( mardana) of the fort. (1599 A. U) From 935f to 1008 A. H. (1529-1599 A D.) this country was in the possession of the Nizamu-1-mulk dynasty. Then it came into the possession of the Emperor Akbar. May God keep it for ever in the Chaghtai line ! The writer of these pages once went to visit it, at the end of the time of the Emperor Alamgir. The men of the place said that Chand Bibi at first loaded her cannon with balls of gold and silver \\ and when the turn came to the iron balls, [or, they were exhausted?] she drowned herself. But I have not seen this incident recorded in any history ; probably, it is a pure myth This is a two-storied building of octagonal shape. We ascended the ruinous stair ,and from the top of the domed roof enjoyed a beautiful view of the hills, the wood, and the sunset." (Life in the Mission &v., 2nd edition, ii. 244.) * According to Ferishta (iii. 312), Chand Bibi was slain by her mutinous soldiery under Humeed Khan, in \\vc private apartments, in 1008 A. H, t Really from 895 A. H. (1490 A. D.) t Elphinstone mentions the legend {History * p.524 footnote). An American traveller wrote in 1856, "The common tradition among the natives is, that during the siege, after the supply of cannon balls was exhausted, she loaded her guns successively with copper, with silver, and gold coins, and did not consent to make terms until the only missiles remaining were her jewels." (R. B. Minturn's From ffew York toD^lhi^ 367.^ CHAHAR GULS&AN : &HA&DESH. Adilabad* is an excellent town ; near it is a tank, which 1$ regarded as a place of worship. Raja Jasrath (Dasharatha), the father of Ram Chandra, having inadvertently committed a 'slip of the foot 1 [*>, unintentional sin], sought atonement in this holy place. It is full to the brim all the year round. Changdevi* (21*2 N. 76. E. Letts, Sh. 6.) is a village near which the Purna and the Tapti unite. Cliakar-tirth is considered a place sacred to Mahadeo, There was a blind man who always carried about him and worshipped the idol of Mahadeo *f One day it fell down from his hand and he lost it. He made a similar image with sand and performed his worship. By the miracle of Destiny it was turned into stone, and is still extant. Near it is a fountain, which is regarded as the Ganges. An ascetic used daily to go to the Ganges and come back [after his bath.] [87. 6.] One night the river told him in sleep, "Bear needless hardship no longer. I will flow in thy corner."! In the morning a trickling appeared, which has flowed up to this day. Amamz f h& populous village; near it is a reservoir from which hot water constantly bubbles up. CJiopra (2TI9 N. 75*14 E) is a large town Near it is a temple [named] Ramisar. The Girni and the Puma!! unite together here and men from distant places come here to worship. The native Kolis and Bhils tame tigers so well that they obey their orders and do violence to none. Revenue : 46,00,30,000 dam (Rs. 1,15,00,750) It has not been divided into Sarkats, but comprises 133 mahals and 6,339 mauzas, Revenue in money Rs. 57,49,972-14^ as. [The last figure, if it stands for the six-monthly collection, represents an annual revenue of Rs. 1,14,99,945-12! as.] * Probably Idulalad, 21,1 N. 76 3 E. (Letts, Sh. 6.) t Ain* ii. 224. J A in. ii. 224. The Ain reads Damarni % but mentions Damri in the list of mahals (ii. 225) None of these names is found in Letts' s Atlas. Ii This should be Tapti. 150 CHAHAR GULSHAN : AURANGABAD. DETAILS OF SARKARS. The whole province forms one Sarkar, with 133 mahals t of 25 of which the records of division and area are not obtain- able. Remaining 108 mahals ; 6,339 mauzas. (i) The mahals whose area has reached the court : 33 ( ? 108) mahals ; area 88 lac bigha 16 bisua ; 2,832 mauzas. (ii) The mahals whose area is not obtainable : 85 (? 25) mahals ; 3,507 mauzas. [The two kinds of totl are given below : Sarkars Mahals Area in bi$ha Mauzas Rev. in dam. P. i 133 88,oo,oooi| 6,339 46,00,30,000 A. i 32 ... ... 45i52.94.-232]. XVII. AURANGABAD. We learn from histories that in former times this town was called Dharanagari. After some time it became famous as Deogir or Daulatabad. When Sultan Fakhru-d-din Jauna, king of Delhi, brought the whole of the Deccan into his possession, he named the fort of Deogir Daulatabad, and [88. a] made it his capital. The fort came back to the possession of the Muhammadan Em- perors [in 1632 AD], 300 years after the time when the country of Deccan passed out of the hands of the kings of Delhi. When Prince Muhammad Aurangzib Alamgir was appointed Viceroy of the Deccan, he founded a town near it, at the village of Khirki^ perfectly beautiful and strong, and named it Aurangabad. It is in the 2nd climate. Eastwards is the frontier of Muhammadabad Bidar, west Salhir* and Mulhir, south Bijapur, north Burhanpur and the river Pambra ( ? ). The town is situated in long. 20*30' lat.f Daulatabad is a town, 2 kos from Aurangabad. Many pre- cious things of all countries can be had here. In the reign of the Emperor Shah Jahan, this fort, which was among the forts of the Nizamu4-mulk dynasty, was annexed to the Empire [of * Stdhir, 20*43 N. 73-58 E. Mulhir. 20-46 N. 74-8 E. (Letts 1 Sheet 6.) t Aurangabad) 19*54 N. 75*22 E. of Greenwich. (/. G. i. 387.) CHAHAR GtfLSHAN : AtJRANGABAD. I$t Delhi]. This province has 145 forts, of which many are on the summits of hills, some in inaccessible forests, and all unrivalled in strength and power. The revenue in dam, in the time of Alamgir (now in heaven), was I,i8,co,oo,c73 dam. (Rs. 2,95,00,001-13-2). The province com- prises ii Sarkars, 116 mahals, and 5,950 mauzas. The measured land is 2,55,70,950^ bighas. [88- b] DETAILS OF SARKARS, 1. Daulatabad... 19 mahals, of which one is a mint. Remaining 18 mahals ; 1,147 mauzas ; area 25,37,388 bighas. 2. Ahmadnagar...2O mahals; 112 mauzas ; area 37,21,877/3- bighas. 3. Jalna...io mahals ; 112 mauzas ; area 23,36,113^ bighas. 4. Islamabad Konkan...7 mahals, of 5 of which records not obtainable. Rem. 2 m ; 1,136 mauzas ; area 4,01,456 bighas. 5. Sholapur..3 mahals ; 112 mauzas ; area 4,47,803^ bighas. 6.* Jooner ( ? )...I3 mahals, of 5 of which statistics not obtain- able. Rem. 8 m. ; 1,223 mauzas ; area 42,05,394^$ big/tas. 7. Pattan ( ? )...3 mahals ; 165 mauzas ; area 374,651^ bighas. 8. Sir (?) ...... \mahal, area 28,23, 363^- bighas. 9. Purainda (?) ..... 19 mahals ; 5,599 mauzas ; area 20,05,475 bighas. 10. Sakha (?) ..... 11 mahals ; 1,353 mauzas \ area 32,57,368^ ii, Fatihabad ...... u mahals ; 430 mauzas ; area 12,02,132!$ bighas. In this province fruits are plentiful, especially sugar-cane and mango are of great excellence. The former is of a black colour and soft ; people even go so far as to say that its juice can be pressed out by the nail [of the finger] ; it grows to such weight * The transliteration of the names which are followed by the note of interro- gation is doubtful, as the text is hopelessly illegible. Jooner> 19*16 N. 74 E Pattan 19*31 N. 75*26 E. Purainda^ 18*17 N. 75*30 E. I $2 CHAHAR GULSHAN : BIJAHJR, that more than 5 seers of clear juice can be pressed out of one sugar-cane. The latter < mango] weighs about \\ seers ; and is very sweet, full of juice, soft, having a small stone, and free from fibres. But this [species] is hard to get. Those weighing \ seer are abundant in the bazars, and grow everywhere The flower Keora is plentiful. The cocoa-nut palm is numerous. In summer and the rainy season, men bring basket-loads of its green fruits and sell them cheap, giving 2 or 3 for one Alamgiri pice. When they are cut open, from [89. a] the interior a tasteful and sweet milky fluid comes out. The shall grows well and is of various kinds. Betel leaf is plentiful ; one species of it, the Kankifi (? Gangiri) is very delicious and soft. If a man eats it, his*tongue never corrupts. [The first two kinds of total and that supplied by the Khulasat are given below : Tot. Sarkars Maltah Area in bigha Mauzas Rev. in dam. S. ii II? 2,33,13,023^ 11,389 P. ii 116 2,55,70,950^ 5,950 1,18,00,00,073 K. 8 80 ... 51,62,80,000.] XVIII B IJ A P U R. This province is in the 2nd climate. In the east lies Gulburga (17*22 N. 76*54 E.), in the west Til-kokan,* in the south Adoni (15*37 N. 77'2i E.) and the river Kishna, in the north Aurangabad, The situation of the city is 105 long, 16*20 lat. (1649.15 N. 75. 46-5 E. of Greenwich.) In 1096 A. u. (1686 A.D.), on Monday, the 2nd Jamadu-s-sani of the 28th year from the accession of the Emperor Aurangzib, the siege of the fort of Bijapur began. In 2 months and 28 days it was captured. The following is a detailed account of it : On the 2$rd Rajab of that year, Prince [Muhammad Azam] was appointed to this work. On the 26th of the same month Ghaziu-d-din Khan Firuz-Jang was appointed [to assist him] with * Not found in Map, There is a Tull Ghat> 19*40 N. 73*32 E. CHAHAR GULSHAN : BIJAPUR, IfJ the troops of his command, viz , 16,995 cavalry Khan Jahan Bahadur with 15,000 cavalry, and Ruhulla Khan with n,QOQ troopers and 250 [ ? blank in the text] were ordered to join the Prince in the siege of the fort and manifest energy and eflfbtt [in the work.] A total force of 77,105 horse and foot, was appointed to besiege the fort But as the siege was protracted, the Emperor also turned to the work and on the 22nd Shaban of the 2Qth year [of the reign] [89 b ] arrived at the foot of the fort of Bijapur. At Rasulpur, within (? outside) the fort, was the entrenchment of the army. On Monday, the 7th of Ramzan, His Majesty himself rode out to inspect the entrenchments and honoured [with his presence] the trenches of Saf Shikan Khan. The men of the garrison then aimed their cannon so that one ball passed by the head of His Majesty and some others fell in front of him. On the I7th the assault (?) was delivered on the outer works (?). The enemy fled into the fort. On the loth Shawwal of the joth year, the filling up of the ditch began and it was finished in 2 days. That day [the I2th] His Majesty left his tent for the purpose of making the assault, went to the foot of the rear of the entrenchment, and desired the fort to be taken by assault. When Sikandar Adil Shah, lord of the fort, was convinced that the fort would be conquered in a day or two, he, on Monday the 4th Zi-qada, sent a message to Ghaziu-d-clin Khan Bahadur and Saf Shikan Khan, requesting that they would take him to His Majesty after procuring a pardon for his offences. On ths very day he was [allowed] to wait upon His Majesty. Ghaziu-d-din Khan advanced to the door to meet him. Adil Shah was at first riding in a palanquin ; but the above-named Khan sent one of his own riding horses and seated him on it ; and the two riders met together and the kissing of hands took place. It was decided that he should at first live in the house of the Khan and afterwards enter into the white tent, which had been pitched for him. At night he came away from the fort to the Court of the Emperor. On Wednesday he waited upon the Emperor at Rasulpur. His Majesty held audience in the Bath- 20 154 CHAHAR GUtSHAK Madaru-l-maham ( chief minister ) Asad Khan, Mahabat Khan and [90. a] Ruhulla Khan went out to meet him, {the last two] near the Nakkdr-khdna and Jumlatu-l-mulk Asad Khan near the canvas walls of the door of the Bath. When he came to His Majesty, he had the good fortune of kissing the [Emperor's] feet and was informed by the tongue of the most holy [Emperor], "It is for thy good. Have peace of mind" After being thus reassured he was permitted to stand face to face [with the Emperor] on the left hand of the silver railing of the throne. On the 15th Zi-hijja of the 3Oth year, the Emperor favoured him with perfumery (attar} and betel-leaf in the private tent and said, "You should not live at a distance. Remain near me in an adjoining tent." When he came to that place (?) all his furniture was confiscated. Ihtamam Khan and Sardar Khan were appointed to guard his tent ; he was mounted on an elephant and brought with a mounted escort (sawari.) One lac of Rupees was settled on him as his annual pension, and his name was changed into Sikandar Khan* 122 forts, full of war materials, were in this province. All of them came into the possession of the Emperor. Among them, Turna garh^ in the Sarkar of Nurkal is a lofty and strong fort ; it was given back by Sultan Mahmud of Bijapur to Sultan Bahlol [Lodi] king of Delhi, who came from Hindustan. The walls of the fort have been built of stone and clay on the top of a hill, at some places 5 zira ( = yard or cubit), at other places 4 xira> and elsewhere half a zira thick. This fort was founded when Ram Raja built the fort of Nagarkot in [the province of J Haidarabad. It has two gates, of which the southern one has been closed and the northern one [90 b] is open. The circumference of the fort is 1 395 ztra ; it has 24 towers and 389 parapets. A dry ditch 9 zira broad surrounds it ; in the rainy season it is filled with water at some places. The fort has one large well of brackish * Khan or nobleman, as distinguished from his former title, Shah or king; t TortMt a hill-fort, 18.14 N. 73*17 E. CHA1IAR GULSHAN : BIJAFUR. V !$$ water within it, and a tank of sweet water outside. It is [in the road] from Bijapur to the Karnatik which adjoins the ocean. The fort of Tel kokan adjoins the ocean. West [of it] is a moun- tain between the countries of Salhir and Mulhir, in the northem hills. The rebel Sarnbha[-ji] fixed it as his residence. It appertains to Bijapur; The following is a detailed account of its capture : On the 5th of the holy month of Ramzan, in the 25th year of the reign, corresponding to 1090 A.n. (1680 A.l>), the Emperor, who had set out for the Dcccan, halted at Aurangabad* and deputed Prince Muhammad Muazzam for the chastisement of the malefactors of the Konkan. He himself, on the 2nd Zi-qada of that year, marched towards Ahmadnagar. The Prince entered Konkan from the mountain -pass of Ram- ghat ; in a short time alt the country fell at the feet of the ever-victorious army, and plunder binding and imprisoning took place. This country has 8 mahals, a revenue [in dam} of 10,14,90,000 dam (Rs. 25,37,250' and a [cash] realisation amounting to Rs. 12,88,320 [for si* months.] Eight parganas belong to it [91. a] DETAILS OF SARKARS. i. Kubir or Bhagunda ( ? )*)"... 348 mauzas ; revenue 3,93,00,04; dam (Rs. 9,82,501-2) and a cash realisation of Rs. 4,91,815 [for six months ?]. * "Aurungzebe remained at Burhanpoor for some months. He first orderec Sultan Manzum to proceed in advance from Ahmednugur and reduci Sumbhajee's southern territory, whilst Sultan Az\m was directed to reduci his northern forts about Candeish, Bnglana, and Sungumnere, and to com mence by besieging the important fortress of Salheir. Accordingly Sultai Mauzum descended into the Concan by the Ambar-durray Ghaut, nea Nassuck, and... advanced to the southward, where he plundered and burnt thf country from Raigurh to Vingorla." (Duffs Mahrattas^ i. 325,) "Afte: Aurangzeb reached Aurangabad, Prince Muhammad Muazzam was sent to tak< the forts and punish the infidels of Ram-darra in the Kokan. ..[He] penetratec into the Kokan, and passing through its inmost recesses, passes and thicl woods, he laid the country waste in all directions ; and put many infidels to thi sword. (Twenty-fifth year of the reign ; 1092 A.H., 1681 A.D.)" Elliot, vii. 311. t Most of the names of Sarkars as given in the text baffle all attempt; to decipher then), I $6 CHAHAR GULSHAN : BIJAPUR. 2 [Left blank in Text].. .92 mauzas ; revenue 27,00,000 dam (Rs. 67,500), cash realisation Rs. 63,763. 3. Muzaffarabad,., revenue 1,33,50,000 dam (Rs. 3,33,750) ; cash realisation Rs 1,66,875 [for six months ?]. 3. [Left blank in Text]... revenue 36,00,000 dam (Rs. 90,000); cash realisation Rs 45,000 5. Kodana (?)... 56,000 mauzas \* revenue 57,05,000 dam (Rs. 1,42,625), cash collection Rs. 71,332 6. Sarangah (?)... revenue 27,00,000 dam (Rs. 67,500), cash collection Rs 33,750. 7. Muzaffarabad or Khalo ( ? ), 265 mauzas ; revenue 1,33,50,000 dam (Rs 3,33,750), cash collection Rs 1,66,875. [This is a mere repetition of No. 3, except in the mauzas.} 8. Sahli ( ? )..-52 ooo mauzas ; revenue 36,00000 dam (Rs 90,000); cash collection Rs, 75,000 [This is a mere repetition of No 4 ; though the cash collection has been incorrectly given as 75,000.] [The two kinds of total are given below : Mahals Mauzas Rev. in dam Rev. in money S. 8 813 8,43,05,045 Rs. 11,14,314 P. 8 ... 10,14,90,003 Rs. 12,8^,320] The fort of NAGARKOT is concealed in the ground. Ram Raja, the Zemindar of the Karnatik, built it on the frontier of his territory. It has 2 gates, one in the S E and the other in the N. The river Diali (?) [is] in it. In one (?) the water is abundant, the other is dry. The distance between the rivers Krishna and Bahat by way of Ladarbadri is 4 kos. In length... Ladarkola (?) 10 kos. There are many other forts in this province, the number of which has been already given. They will be detailed separately, if God wills it. Collection in cash, Rs. 3,36,84,771. The statistics of the Sarkars of this province are not at Court. As is well-known, Nizamu-1-mulk Asaf Jah [91. 6.] carried away with himself the * Evidently the numbers of mauzas given for Sarkars 5 and 8 are wrong 1 . J take them as 56 and 52 respectively in calculating the totals. CHAHAR GULSHAN : HAIDARABAD, t$; papers of every one of the six divisions [Text reads maAak] O the Subah of Deccan during his own viceroyalty. [He left Delh for the Deccan about 1720 A.IX] Therefore, they have not reached the author of these pages, who writes in his own place XIX. HAIDARABAD. [The town] was at first known as Daru-l jihad^ [the place of religious war], then it became celebrated as Farkhanda-bnniad In former times It bore the name of Rhagnagar* It is in the first climate. The situation of the city is 102 30 long, and 19*30 lat. (17 21-45 N. 78 30*10 E. of Greenwich ) The fort is situated on a hillockf, which is enclosed by another mountain. The ocean is near* [the province The region commencing] from this place is called the territory of Abul Hasan Qutbu-1- mulk, whom the common people call Tana Shah. He was the unique of his age and the son of a noble of Iran. He came travelling from Hama- dan, in the guise of a Faqir. The ruler of this place, Qutbu-I-mulk Abdulla(i6ii 72 A. D.) had no son, and, being pleased with his sagacity and acutcness of genius, accepted him as his son-in- law. When Abdulla bade farewell to the world, the Pillars of the State (chief officers), giving Abul Hasanj the title of Qutbu-1 - * "Haidarabad was founded in 1589 by Kutab Shah Muhammad Kuli....*. on the banks of the Musi river,! 7 miles from Golconda. He called it Bhag* nagar, 'Fortunate City/ from his favourite mistress Bhagmati ; but after her death he named it Haidarabad." (/. G. v. 254 ; also Elliot, vii. 336.) t "It stands on a height of about 1700 ft. above sea-level. The city is 6 miles in circumference, with a stone-wall, flanked with bastions, encircling it"(7. G.v. 254.) J "Abu Husain (sic) notorious for dissipated habits. He fell entirely under the influence of a Maratha Brahman named Madhuna Panth, who became his Prime Minister.. ..In 1687, Aurangzeb formally declared war against Abu Husain. The king bravely defended the fort of Golconda for 7 months, lost it at last by treachery, and was sent a captive to Daulatabad, where he resided until his death. Abu Husain was a very popular monarch, and many anecdotes of his virtues are still current in the Deccan," (/. G. v 256.) 158 CHAHAR GULSHAN : HAIDARABAD. mulk, placed him in authority. He was liberal, charitable, and indifferent to the world and its concerns. His night passed into day and his day wore on into night in attending dances and songs. The Pillars of the State looked after th work of govern- ment Summoning many of the skilled artisans of the country, [he] assigned them quarters in his town. The handicrafts of the place have remained famous in the world up to this day. The Brahman Madna became his Vizier and the [92 d\ knot of his sovereignty. As Abul Hasan by always drinking to excess ruined his earthly realm and mental kingdom, the subjects of the country were oppressed by tyrannical men. Till at length their complaint reached the Emperor Aurangzib. He resolved to free the country from the hands of its oppressors, and for this purpose appointed his son, Prince Muhamad Azam Shah, \\ithalarge army and materials of war and siege. An acconnt of it is given below. In this province there are 53 lofty forts, which rival the hill of Alwand [in Hamadan, Persia,] in strength and firmness. One of them is the fort of Golconda % of the capture of which the follow- ing is an account : [Not translated.] [93. i.] Details of the property of Abul Hasan which was confiscated to the Imperial Treasury. The cash reaching the treasury and spent as tamghah* amounted to 31,05,000 hun, or Rs 93,35,000; [94. #,] and Rupees in cash 6 lac ; altogether amounting to Rs 1,04,81,849-12 as The money which was spent as tamghah t was an additional Rs 1 1,46,700, Besides the above, the price of the jewels and gold which Bhamdas (?) brought "The king Abul Hasan, though indolent and voluptuous, was popular ; and his government and finances were ably conducted by Madna Pant, a Bramin. But the exclusive employment of this minister was odious to the Mussul- mans." (Elphinstone's India^ 652). * "The word also signifies a royal grant under the seal of some of the former native princes and recognised by the British Government as conferring a title to rent-free land in perpetuity." (Wilson's Glossary.} But here the word seems to mean prize-money or royal grant. CHAttAR in amounted to Rs 35,52441-1135, [and they were kept] in charge of the Imperial officers. Revenue in dam, 1.09.28,35,000 dam (Rs 2,73,20,875), collec- tion in cash, Rs. 2,9900,678, comprising the produce of the cesses which were levied in the time of Abul Hasan, the dbwdb* being forbidden [The Province has] 12. Sarkars. As the records of this Province, like those of Bijapur, are not at Court, I cannot give the statistics of the parganas and mauzas and its area. DETAILS OF SARKARs.f 1. DevalkundalJ...i8 mahals ; revenue 3,44,666 hun gf anna ; revenue in Rupees, Rs. 13,33,399-10^ as. 2. Warangal, on the further side of the Krishna,... 10 mahals ; re- venue 1,22,512 hun 1 5 Jas.; revenue in Rs., Rs. 3,67,528 13! as. 3. Rajgopal, on the further side of the Krishna,.. .8 mahals ; revenue 3,72,486 hun ; revenue in Rs., Rs. 11,11,458-6 as. 4. Kambhim-mandi 5 mahals ; revenue 70,512 hun ; revenue in Rupees, Rs 2,30,427-13 as. 5. Ibrahim-pattan, on the further side of the Krishna, re- venue 2,24,266 hun ; revenue in Rupees, 6,72,7801203. [94. *.] 6. ' Nizam-pattan,i| on the further side of the Krishna 5 makals ; revenue 10,66,214 hun ; revenue in Rupees, Rs. 31,00,000 7- Muhammaddnagar 5 mahals \ revenue 32,92,04,500 dam (Rs. 82,30,112-8) ; revenue in Rupees, Rs. 37,71,284-1 Jas. * Cesses in excess of the original assessment (Fallen). t At present the State of Haidarabad comprises the following 18 Districts, grouped in Divisions : /*) In the Eastern Division, Kamamet, Nalgonda, and Nagar Karnul. (b) In the Northern Division, Mehdak, Indoor, Yelgandal, and Sirpur Tandur. (c) In the Western Division, Bidar, Nander, and Naldrug. (</) In the Southern Division, Raichor, Lingsagar, Shorapur, and Gtilburgah. (e) In the N. W. Division, Aurangabad, Bhir, and Parbaini ; while the capital forms the City District. (/. G. v. 240.) t Daver-condah^ 16*42 N. 78*59 E. (Letts.) 17 rn. S. E. of Haidarabad City. II 15*55 N. 80-45 E. (Letts.) . CHAHAK GULSHAN : BIDAR, 8, Kulpur ( ? or Gilpur) on the further side of the Krishna, 8 mnhnls ; revenue 3,68,331 hun 4 as. ; revenue in Rupees Rs 11,04,393-12 as. 9. Rajmahendri...i2 mahals ; revenue 627,857 hun iif as.; amount in Rupees, Rs. 1 8, 23, 579-2 \ as 10. Mahals on the further side of the Krishna,. ..19 mahals ; revenue 11,46,392 kun ; amount in Rupees, R#**^i 8,270 Si as. n. \Mahals\ on this side of the Krishna,... 6 mahals ; revenue 32,92,04,510 dam (Rs. 82,30,1 f 1-12) ; amount in Rupees, Rs- 37,71)294-4 as 12. Mahalat i-sdir : (i) Mint, 52,339 \liun ?! Income from sendhi (juice of the date palm, toddy,) 19,000 hun. Manduydt (marts, emporia ? ) 3 houses, 1,000 hun. (2} Income from reservoirs 1.375 {hun ?] Grass, 3,225 hun. (3- Income from Bdndher ( ? ) 16,365 hun. Kotwali chabutra (police-station) 39,300 Jtun. (4) Diamond mines 2,00,055 dam (Rs. 5,001- 6); 52,339 '"<. Rs - 7,57,017 12 as* XX. BIDAR. This province is in the second climate... Eastwards lies Haidar- abad, westwards Aurangabad, south- west Gulburga, north Bur- hanpur. In the time of the Emperor Alamgir, the fort of Bidar was conquered along with some other forts. Of them five are very strong, viz, Muhammadabad, Raigarh, Firuzgarh or Ibra- hinigarh, Kalliangarhrf Muzaffarnagar or Balkhant In this * The total revenue in Rupees for all the Sarkars added together is Rs. 2,13,21,434-8, while the Provincial total is given as Rs. 2,99,00,678. : t Kullianee^ 17-53 N, 77-1 E (Letts, Sheet 3.) \ There is a Bdkhi\ 18-5 N. 77*17 E, (Ibid.) CHAHAR GULSHAN : BIDAR. t6l province the excellent and valuable Bidri pots are manufactured, [such as] the pdn-ddn, ab-kfiora, [95. a.] rekabi, small and large cups, hukka, candle-stick and other things ; different sorts of flowers are inlaid on them with gold and silver by the artisans of this place, so delicately and nicely that even a painter cannot picture them in his imagination. Fruits and flowers abound in all the provinces of the Deccan, The heat [of summer] is not great ; in the rainy season one has to wear the shal and doldi morning and evening. Winter is temperate This province has 4 Sarkars, 54 mahals, 3791 mauzas ; its measured land is 78,72, 194^$ bighas ; revenue in dam 62,05,50,000 dam (Rs. 1,55,13,750); revenue in money Rs. 66,59,801-12! as. DETAILS OF SARKARS. 1. Bidar...8 mahals, 549 mauzas, area 15,65,198^ bighas. 2. Kallian...2 mahals, 147 mauzas, area 2,04,1 37^ bighas. 3. Riimgarh...! mahal^ 107 mauza, area unknown. 4. Mdndir... 43 mahals, of one of which area unknown. Rem. 42 mahals, 2,886 mauzas, area 66,02,888 -;& bighas. [Text wrongly gives the number of mauzas for No. 4 as 93. The two kinds of total are stated below : Sark. Mah. Mauzas Area in bigha Rev. in dam. S. 4 54 3,689 81,71,624*8 P. 4 54 3,791 78,72, 194g 62,05,50,000.] In many places of the Deccan, cloth and other articles are very well manufactured. The gold bddla, do-patta, [95. #.] border- ed korta, chirah y and sarpech are well woven. Do-patta > kamar- band, and sar-pech of lace are excellently made. In the territory of the Karnatik chhint is well manufactured ; and Q called chhint, is woven, of which the warp anc of the hair of the cow. It is very nice, Many men make dresses of it. In this Zilla,jaifal (nut-meg) and the i grow in abundance. Of the former they fruit). The present writer brought onel 162 CHAHAR GULSHAN : AURANGABAD ,FORTS. murabba. European badant (almond) grows in Haidarabad ; its size is one foot or less than one foot in length, and 12 ringers more or less in breadth. Four [kernels are found] in one [fruit.] It matures in 7 months. Its taste is like that of the [Indian] badam. (Termi- fialia catappd) Mauz, i.e. plantain, is numerous. One variety of it, called the suhan kela is smaller ; its pith is so delicate that if you place it on hot rice it melts into water and sinks down. Another variety is called the gokeli kela ; its pith is used after being dried. Its flavour resembles that of k hob am (apricot). Fofal, i.e., betel- nut, is plentiful, and its trees are numerous. It has a slender trunk, the fruits and leaves growing in clusters ; among the leaves it has bunches [of fruits] like the date-tree ; its good flavour makes it fetch a high price, one seer costing as much as ten rupees. With the wood of the trunk they make very strong spear-shafts. Other precious things are abundant ; I have no space to write of them. The karaunda (the corinda, Carissa carandas) bears good fruits at certain places ; one of it weighs 2 or 3 copper coins. Its taste is sweet and sour blended together, and it pleased the palate of the Emperor Alamgir. Whoever presented him on the way with one seer more or less of it, [96 a] got one gold coin by way of reward Account of the Kings of the Deccan, [not translated]. [116. d.] The Forts of each of the six Provinces of the DECCAN given separately : I. THE FORTS OF THE PROVINCE OF AURANGABAD. Kalidni. Bakhari. Puri. 4, Qila Manik. 5, Qila Masi. 6, Qila Balgarh. 7. Qila Manranjan, 8. Mankar-garh. 9. Sartnar-rdi (?) (144 Forts.) 10. Bhamri. 19. 11. Dhdnkhora. 20. 12. Dargdhikhora, 21, 13. Bardlaf. 22. 14. Bahrdngarh. 23. 15. Barili(?). 1 6. Durg-garh 24. 17. Sardiri. 25. 18. Rmpuri. ^ 26. Ratangarh. Sarda-durg. Sakatrd (?). Songarh. Surplarak (Surpdi durg ?) Koli&na. KArgarh. Kaldna-khurl CHAHAR GULSHAN : AURANGABAD FORTS. 27. Kanak-durg (Gang- 67, Dabdal-garh. 1 06. Jaula. durg ?). 68. Waniiba (?). 107. Ch and pur. 28. Ghdsala, 69. Bansli (?). 108. Parand. 29. Mat-garh (?). 70. Sakota (?) 109. Chandn ( Jaiita ?) 30. Mdnik-garh. 7i. Ahangarh. I 1O. Dharat 31. Madh-garh, 72. Bandagarh. i u. Dabhra. 32. Bala. 73- Kijr-garh (?). \ii. Raj man d. 33 Mandal-garh. 74- Suddas. H3- Rajkot 34- Mulk-garh 75- Harsal. 114 Riisanj. 35- Basant-garh. 76. Khujista-buniad 115. RCUa. 36. Haidar-garh. (Aurangabad). 116. Sinkhar. 37. Manpdlgarh. 77- Begampur. 117. Sadhu-durg. 38. M6r-garh. 78. Daulatabad 118. Sdgar-garh. 39- Isa-garh. 79. Ajlau. 119. Son-garh, 40. Go-ganj. 80. Ahmad-nagar. 170. Sholapun 41. Bhaskar. 81. Islamabad or Jalna. 121. Qandhdr. 42, Deo-dand 82. Azim-garh. 122. Fatibabad or -Dhftri, 43- Uniri (?) 83- Buna. 123. Gulbarga. 44- Unakclanda (?) 84. Amur. 124. Khadasa. 45- Mulk-garhi. 85. Aud-gir. 125. Kahan-garh. 46, Chdncl-bari (?;, 86. Usa (?). 1.6 Kalubi. 47. Dhak. 87- Undh (?) 127. Khajar bajar (?). 4. Koplas (?) 88 Islamabad or Rairi 128. Nakhra. 49- Konkana. 89. Anjrdni (?). 129. Kurang. 50 Udurg. 90. Alang. 130. Guldhar. 5i. Bisram-garh. 91. Anki-banki. 131- Kdnra, 2. Bhuri 92. Ahuhat. 132. Kurang. 53- Saudagir. 93. Bahadnr-garh or 133- Kalul-garh. 54- Padam-durg. Bikapur. 134. Kar-garh. 55- Part^b-garh. 94- Bula (?). 135- Lauh-garh 56. Puma. 95- BuhatTm a.] 136. Muftahu-1-fatuh or 57- Chandan-garh, 96. Sardari. Kunila 58. Rdj-garh. 97- l^ni-garh (?). 137. Badh. 59- Rdj-durg 98. Malih (Mulhcr ?). 138. Mdrkand. 60, Karur. 99- Salih (Salher ?). 139- Mdhuli. 61. Khdnderi. 100. Purainda. 140. Manik-ganj. 62, Kotwal-garh. 101. N and -g lion. 141. Mahur- 63- Kalman-garh. 102. Bhim-garh. 142. Nal-darg. 64. Kanu, 103. Bamar-bank (?) , 143- Sar-bas (?) 65. Bari. IO4, Warangal-dari. 144. Harchand-garh. 66. Makaraud-garb 105. JAdhan. CEAHAR GULSHAN : BIJAPtJR FORTS. II. THE FORTS OF THE PROVINCE OF KHANDESH OR BERAR. (19 Forts). 1. Burbdnpur. 8, Fatibdbdd. 2. Asirgarh. 9. Bbdtnir Mul. 3. Rudi. 10. Mnjha (?) 4. Mdnik. 11. Sultangarb. 5. Hargarh. 12. SdnulaC?). 6. Maurdgarh. 13. Songarh. 7. Pandla. 14. Gdwil 15. Kamla, 16. Barnala (? Narnala) 17. Naudgarb. 18. Bdtta(?) 19. Bdbbal-garb ( ? ) III. THE FORTS OF BIDAR. (5 Forts). 1. Mubammaddbdd 3 Firnzgarh [or] 5. Muzaffarnagar or (Bidar). Ibrabimgarh. Balkhan (Balkbi ?) 2. Rdmgir. 4. Kalidn- IV. THE FORTS OF THE PROVINCE OF BlJAPUR, (120 Forts). i. Bijdpur. 22. Banli ( ? ) 42. Miidgal (Muktul?) 2. Isldmgarb. 2 3- Salliki. 43- Susal. 3- Alang. 2 4 . Sadh-garh [117 b.\ 44. Barad. 4. Achalpur. 25- Nupar-garh ( ? ) 45- Mandpdl. 5. Amaldnk (?) 26 Sapandan-durg ( ?) 46. Saubat-durg. 6. Rewni. 27. Snsar. 47- Bundi-kotba. 7- Anirdj-durg. 28. Sidh-durg. 48. Gokal-pur. 8. Andarud, 29. Kalki. 49- Chbilam. 9- Ast-garbi. 30- Kisan-garh. 50. Lund, 10, Rang-durg. 3'- Lakbmir. Bundi. n, Tdru. 2. LIT m si -garb ( ? ) 52. Kotpur. 12. Pancb-durg. 33- Nddar-garh 53- Khua. 13- Hinvdurg. (Naradgarh ?) 54- Rasixlgarh. 14. Mabim-garh. 34- Bbdl-^arh. 55- Kandal-garb. *5- Sudar-garh. 35- Mabammat-garh. 56, Kuldr-garh. 16, Badmir. 36. Mandbi-garh. 57- Ji\bgarb. 17- Sdk-dnrg. 37- Ndndu-garb ( ? ) 58. Bbt\m-garb. 18, Nau-maddr-garh. 38, Bdldpur. 59- Rahim-garh 19. Bdi-buzdni (?'< 99. Ha rang. 60. Ruin-garb. 20* Mdkbdrdi. 40.. Dang-pur. 61. Shdhmandar. 21. Mdkfedrali. 4 t. Bhtikban-garb. 62, Warir-garb. CHAHAR GULSHAN : HAIDARABAD. FORTS. 63. Vildit-garh. 64. Humd. 65- Bankdbald. 66. Harbans-garb. 67. Cbandan-garb. 68. Mabdl-garb (?) 69. Gulaband-garb. 70. Gandbarb-garb (?). 71. Mor-garb. 72. Naulpur. 73- Marddn-garh. 74. Suram-sakb. 75. Kumbar-dldl. 76. Khadi. 77- Ladha sadha. 78. Asgharnagar or Akluj, 79. Azimnagar or Malkdpnr. 80. Imtidr-garh. 81. Kaburah. 82. Mdrdni. 83. Banal-garb. 84. Basudmin, 85. Baldd*garh. 86 Bikdnur 87. Bb us-garb. 88. Pddshdh-pur. 89. Bdnsit?). 90. Mdtbura. 91. Nurgal. 92 Mangalkot. 93. Khabra, 94. Dhtibri. 95 Rdjbans-garh. 96. Atbsli-garh. 97. Anmdl-garh. 98. Sankula. 99. Sadhur. 100. Sadanand-garh. 101. Sribast-garh. 102. Harkona-garh 103. Kan41*garh, 104. Martazdbid. 105. Mangarband. 106. Mi\dgal (t6nN. 107. Baldatpi. 108. Mdbam. 109. Haidar-garh (Cbandargarb ?) no. Sabanjan-garh (?). in. Mandalgarb. 112. Mahmtin-garh. 113. Nasir-dbdd. 114. N.and-pdl. 115. Ddrdgarh. 1 16. Bijuli (?). 117. Huli-garh. 1 1 8. Hali-hdl. 119. lluli-honiir. 120. Hiinmali. V THK FORTS OF THE PROVINCE OF HAIDARABAD. (54 Forts) 1. Bhagnagar or llaidarabad. 2. Danurgarh. 3. Muhammadabad. 4. Rasdpur. 5. KhiUds. 6. Martaza-nagar. 7. KaKih-bddar (?). 8. Makha[r8. a .} 9. Kumal-garb. 10. Mustafa-nagar. 1 1 . Haidar-nagar. 12. Basant-nanam (?) 13. Kiibhdiili (?) 14. Tubal kandan. 1 5 Mandakrdpur. 1 6. Hasab-nasab (?) 17. Kanji-kup. 1 8. Jangal-pet. 19. Mdsrur (?) 20. Naumalgarh. 21. Golkonda. 22. Sadah-danam (?) 23. Habur. 24. Argatiur. 25. Wdlmdk. 26. Makahkiir. 27. Bhu-garh- 28. Karrtdh. 29. Bans-dhar. 30. Har-mali (?) 31. Urksla. 32. Udrun. 33. Miinkal. 34. Khulirah. 35. Kardbkali. 36. 'Absi. 3 7 . Kumin. 38. Ubur. 39. Panchla. 40. Lundhd-e. 41. Kordr. 42. Kald-pnr. 43. Krtli. 44. Bdmin. 166 CHAHAR GULSHAN : DECCAN. 45. Abdulla-garh. 49. Kha-ram-war-dar. 53. Dbaramrdm. 46. Bidli-garh. 50. Khajla (?) 54. KAni (Gutt ?) 47. Sundam-b&r. 51. Nimi. 48. Manjddurg. 52. Khim. The Saints of the six Provinces of the Deccan [not translated.] [119. a 1 Hindu Shrines in the Province of Deccan. Shiva- Ganga [not translated, as it is a repetition of p 85 b of the text.] [119. .] Tank near A dilabad [a repetition of p 87. # 1 Chakar- tirth lbid^\ Reservoir at Amarni \Ibid.\ Ramisar \Ibid\ Lachhman- chati : He [Lachhman] was the brother of Ram, who was an incarnation [of Vishnu] ; his shrine is on a hill difficult of access, [where] a large temple has been built to htm ; every day presents are offered at the place, and they are spent on paupers andfaqirs. The Rivers of the Provinces of the Deccan.- -The Kishna coming out of the hill near Balkokan, unites with the ocean near [the province of] Haidarabad [120 a ] The Bhimra flows from between the territories of Bijapur and Aurangabad The Bdngangd [first] comes into sight in the territory of Bijapur and [then] flows on to the province of Aurangabad. The Narbada, descending from the hill of Mangal which is in Bengal, reaches the Deccan and falls into the ocean The Hindus call it a nad, i. e.. a male [river All rivers are of the feminine gender \nadi\, except seven, which are called ndd The Kahtir <?) flows out of the Purna near Fardapur. The Tapti flows from Deogaon in the province of Berar ; the city of Burhdnpur is on its bank ; at the village of Chang-devi it unites with the Purna. The Gangd Gotami, also called Goddvari, is connected with the Rishi Gotam It comes from Ahmadnagar into Berar. Its stream is [first] seen near the hill of Sahya. When Jupiter enters Leo, men come from distant places to perform worship here. The Girni and the Purnd : the former flows near Chopra, and the latter at Deogdon. They unite with the Tapti at the village of Chang-devi. BOOK THIRD. ON THE STAGES AND DISTANCES. I write of the royal road (shdk-rdti} from Bijapur to Shah- Jahanabad and [those] which extend on the four sides of Delhi, east and west, north and south, together with the distances and [halting] places, as far as they are known. From Bijapur to a TOO kos [south] is the limit of [the territory of] Adil Shah ; thence to Setu-bandh Ramcswar is the dominion of Ram Raja. t The following tables, each occupying a page of the text, have been here icproducec] verbatim, the only change that I have made being the trans- position of the columns so that the pages which in the text read from the right to the lett are here made to read from the left to the right. The numbers enclosed in brackets have been supplied by me, while those outside brackets are as found in the text A note of interrogation has been placed after doubt- ful unidentified names. In the footnotes A stands for the Indian Atlas (i" = 4 miles) issued by the Survey of India Office, L for Letts' Popular Atlas, and the number immediately following these letters for the number of the sheet in the Atlas.] 168 CHAHAR GULSHAN : STAGES AND DISTANCES. [120. *.] i Aurangabad, which was for- merly named Khirki^ and then Kh ujista- buniad. Bijapur Fort 35 Poolmurry (8). Bijdpur [City] Golkonda Kanwaldpur 3 Pathri River of Nag- Nandg&on (i) Bidar 3 Alund (9; pur Chambhar- Qandhar Serai-kdman goonda (2) (7) Izdabad (3) Ki Salnr (10) Ahmad- Ahmadna- Gola-g^on nagar Fort gar city Fardapur Bihisht-biigh Ellichpur Ghati Farda- River of Nag- (4) pur pur ? Ban-ganga Takht- Serai-Hdtam The stream [river] bahz&d ? Beg Purna comes from Berar. Durjanpur Bikhari ? Adilabad(n) Village Antri (12) Village River Baha-ri ? On this side Tapti is Burhanpur. Village Asir Fort Sorath of Ujjaincity (13) Serai-D&dan Gujrdt Ghdti-Tubri ? 8 Cutcha Serai River Burhan- Firozpur vil- Serai-Bddli . Mandhiir? pur lage 3 Bheekungdon 2 Serai - Serai-hultan Serai-NukM- (5) Jola Mahmud nia ? Nagpur 6 Ghoragaon (6) 3 Serdi Badshahi Serai nim (1) There is a Nimbgaon, 18*5 N. 74*58-30 E ( A 39 S E ) (2) 18*37 N 74-45 E. (L. 3) ; named Shrigonda in A 59 N. E. (3) Probably Ka/arabact or Mandavgan, 17 m. N. N, E. of Shrigonda (A. 39 N. E.) (4) A garden north of Ahmadnagar, see p. 148. (5) 21-49 N - 7fri E. (L. 6) (6) Probably Go%aon, 6* m. S. of Multan (A. 37 N. E.). (7) Kandahr, 18-53 N. 77*1 7 E- (L 3-) (8) 1 5 m. N of Aurangabad (L. 3 ) (9) 13 m. N. E. of Poolmurry, 20-13 N. 75-39 E. (Ibid}, (jo) SailooT) 8m N. E of Alund (Ibid\ (11) Probably Idulabad, 2ri N 76-5 E. (L, 6.)- (12) Not t e Antri which is 11 m. S, of Gwalior. (13) 23-10 N. 75-48 E. (L. 6). CHAHAR GULSHAN : STAGES AND DISTANCES. [181.*-] * t r 4 4 6 Multban (I). 10 Serai- Mandhdr. Serai-Sang- in -Raman. Serai-Cha- har-dah (4) Dargah of Shah Mas- Serai-M-il- 2 Mandu. Road from Sihore vill- tan ? chand. the side of age . Road* Ujjain. Akbarpur. 3 Daudnag- ar. Shahjahan- pur (3) Serai-Nimak Duraha Daghwara ? Tomb of Jahangir- 3 Serai-Bir ? v Shah Kar- nagar. mun. Nau-nahra 3 New Serai Village. Serai-Bhat- Shrine of Dikthan 3 Serai. Deodha khera Shah All, village. Mewatian- Dipalpur 3 Serai Ba- Imperial haran- Serai. Cutcha Serai Nakhraj ? Abode of kata?(2) Mandiburj Fatihabad 8 Serai-Chin- Nala Bhua- Imperial [also] pur nala ? nala. known as Serai of Ba- Asafabad. Juria. roda village Garden of Narmada Serai -Basant Eastern di- Aurangzib River. baria ? rection : 8 Serai-Nim Serai-Kan- Chanderi Darband 4 Charwah kar? (?) or the village Serai-Niu- Sironj city gate of Serai-Beli aria ? Ujjain (?) Serai -Bijh- This river of 1 5 kos. ula? Sironj Hindia vill- age i Tomb of Serai of Mulla Murshid Dopiaza. Quli Kot- wal Serai-Nur- Ghati Far- -bari ? dapur ? * This column comes immediately after the Ghoragaon of the previous page, t This column comes immediately after the River ^Mandhar of the preceding page, i This column comes immediately after the 2nd column of this page, and the fiftn column follows it, while the 3rd column of the page follows the ist. (1) 22 N. 75'47E. (L. 6.) There is another Mutthan (A. 36 N.E.) 23-5 N. 75*16 E. Akbarpur 22-9 N. 75*31 E. (A. 37 N.E-) Dikthan 22*3430 N. 75*32 E. (A. 36S.E.) Dipalpur 22*53 N. 75*3: E (L. 6.) Fatihabadiyi N. 75-44 E. (A. 36 N.E), 1 2m. S. S. W. of Ujjain.' There is a village named Jharolia* ijm. N.W. of it. (2) Probably Bhamghur, 15 m. S.W of Chainpur (L. 6) CJtainpurzrjfi N. 76*43 E (L. 6) Charwah ?: N. 76.52 E. (L. 6) Hindia 22*29 N. 77'3 E. (A. 53 S.EO The pass of Fardapur, 32 kos from Aurangabad. (Elliot vti. 307). (3) 23*24 N. 76*16 E. (L. 6.), 34m. N.E. of Ujjain. Deodha is probably Dupara, 14 m N. of Shah-Jahanpur (A. 53. N. W.) (4) Probably Ichhawar^ 23*2 N. 77. 5 E. (A. 53 N.E.) Sihore, 23*12 N. 77,7 E. Duraha 23.24 N. 77'i3'3o E. Bhatkhera 23*38 N. 77-38 E (Ma 9 .) (5) The Chanderi meant here seems to be the one at 24*3*30 N. 77*20 E., 26 m. W, of Sironj. (A. 52 S.E.) Sironj, 24 7 N, 77'45 I/O CHAHAR GULSflAN : STAGES AND DISTANCES. [121 ] Continuation of the Serai Tamawaj (?) built by Serai Rajhula(?) royal road of order of the Emperor was renovated Sironj. This river Alamgir [but] not used. in the time of flows below Sironj, Alamgir, and but nobody drinks became a vill- its water. age of the name of Raj hula. Serai Maldncha? River Chambal Stone Serai. River Nun Dholpur (10) Serai -Mughal ( i) Ghati. Village of Nun Serai Sddiq Serai-Afghan Serai-Nun Fatihabad Serai Kachner(2). Serai-Sardar Built by Serai Begam Shah-daura (3). Old serai. Khan order of Serai Shaikh Serai of the vil- Cutcha Serai the Emper- Serai Than ? lage of Madh- Antri was a village or ; the (u). kati ? named Guna (8) Prince Serai Abu Said Village ofKala- Serai Sarmast Akbar sold Hassan. bagh (4). Serai Gajpati in it. Jamal nagar. Serai Abul Hassan Aknapi ? the city ? Serai Sambha ? Tumadu-nagar ? Gwalior city Serai Sikan- Village of Raj- Serai-Jitndwardn ? dra (12). hulii? Serai-Ud Singh Serai Sara. Serai Sa'id. A Pucca Serai-Badridas serai has Serai Mihr AH Distance of Village of (5) betn pur- other cities Kakuba. Village of Sawari chased by Serai-Sank? (9) from Ak- (6}, order of barabadt the Emper- ,. or from the Garden of Khan- Celebrated Serai Muluk- Prince. Jah&n as Ambar chand. Serai-Dongri (7) ft Ghati * Khan. Narwar city. Narwar. The river Sdnkh SSerai Kanwari? (i) 14 m. N. of Sironj (A. 52 S. E.). (2) 24-26 N. 77-4 E- (A: 52 N. E.). (3) 2 4'37 N. 77'3Q E. (Ibid.) (4) 16 m. N. of Shahdaura ; 3$ m. S.of it is Nai Serat, but 3^ m S. E. is Hasanpur. (Ibid.) (5) There is a Kailaras, 15 m. S. of Sipri (A. 51 S. E.) (6) Should be Sipri, 8 m. S. W. of Dongri. (7) 25-30! N. 77-49 E. (Ibid) 14 m. N. E. of it is Nurwur. (8) Antri^ n m. S. of Gwalior \ near it is a village named Ningona (A. 51 N. E,) 14 m. S. of it is the river Noon, (9) There is a river named Sank, 8 m. W. of Gwalior. * Here there are two lines in the text which cannot be read correctly. The last column of this page is very puzzling. At first sight Sadiqpur (7 m N. N. E. of Dholpur) and Fatihabad ( 1 7 m S. E. of Agra) seem to indicate that the road proceeds N. E. from Dholpur, avoiding Agra in the west. But from the context it seems to be the last portion of the road from Gwalior, via the Sank river, to Agra. I take it as the latter. (10) 26*41 N. 77*58 E (A. 50 S. E ) (u) May be a mistake for Thanro, io| m, N. of Dholpur. (12) Sikandarpur^ \\\ m. S. of Agra, and fCakuba 4 m N. of Sikandarpur. (Ibid.) ' t After this comes the information at the top of the next page pf the text. CHAHAR GULSHAN : STAGES AND DISTANCES, [122. a.] [Distance in kos from Agra to] Burhanpur 245, Mandhu 202, Azimabad Patna 356, Jaunpur 141, Etawah 4 [should be 40], Allahabad 15 [should be 150] Mathura 18, Delhi 80, Kabul 391 [should be 591], Lahor 282, Kashmir by the road of Dhantaur via Pakli, 274 [should be 374] The fort of Akbarabad on the river Jumna was formerly a village named Agra and a dependency of Biana. From Akbara- From Ban- From Shah Continuation bad to Shah chari to Jahanabad of the road. Jahanabad. Shah Jaha to the capi* Duraha (8). Sikandtfa ( i ). The tombs nabad Delhi tal Lahor. Ludhiana Serai Farah of Akbara- Khana Kath- 4 Badii (5). River Sutlej, bad are ra (2). 6 Narela. Phulour. here. 8 Sonepat. NurmahaL 6 Ganaur. Nakodar. Jhandipurfrom Mi trul (3). 6 Samalkha Dakhni Sikandar ? Bahamni 8 Pan i pat. River Biah* Ganu-ghat ? Pucca Ser- Khera (4). 7 Gharaunda Firuz'scanal Sultanpur. ai com- Serai-Palwal. which has Fatihabad, manding Baghaula. been dng Nauranga- the Jum- Pir-thala. from Mtikh- bad. na. Sikri. 4 Serai-pul lispur (from Nuru-d-din Chahar (6). which place Hassan. Serai Koila Sihli ? 4 Karnal(7) Shah Jaha- Serai Ama- Naurangabad Over-look- Ballabgarh. nabad is 100 nat Khan. Mathura, birth ing the Faridabad, kos.) Darkah place of Sri Jumna. Pul? t Krishna- ii. 7 Taraon- The river Akbarpur. Azimabad. Sarsati between Thanisar Serai Chiita* was a vill- 9 Shahabad and Shahabad. Kuru Ch- pucca. age nam- Thanisar. hatra, which is a great ed Chata. holy place of the Hindus, is here. * Between the Chata and Khana Kathra of this page intervenes the 1st column of the next page (Deotana). After Faridabad comes the 2nd column of the next page (Serai-Khawajah Bakhtawar Khan.) Between the Thanisar and Duraha of this page intervenes the 3rd column of the next page (Umbala.) t After this comes the Hushiar Khan of the next page. (1) Sikandra, 5 m. N. W. of Agra. Farah \$>m N. W. W. of Sikandra. Jhandipur^ m. N. of Farah, and Koila 5 m. N. of Jhandipur. (A. 50 N. E.) Naurangab<id\$ given at 9^ m. from Farah (Agra and Calcutta Gazetteer^ voi II. pt i. p. 37 n.) Akbarpur^ 12 m. N. W. of Mutlira. Chata, 27. 44 N. 77- 34 E. (A. 5 oN. E.) (2) Khataila^m N. of Bancaari (A. 49 S. E.) ; it is named Kuttehla in the A and C Gazetter p. 132. (3) Mttnaul 6i m. N. of Banchari (A 49 S E,) spelt Metrolee in the A and C Gazetteer. (4) Khera Serai, 2.\m N. of Mitnaul, and 2 m S. of Tikri Brahman (A. 49 S. E.) ; the A, and C. Gazetteer calls it Baminee Khera. (p 132) Palwal. 28.9 N. 77. 23 E. Baghaula^ 4 m. N. of Palwal. Ptrtkala 6^ m. N. of Palwal Sikri, 3 m. N. of Pirthala, Ballabgarh 28. 21 N. 77. 23 E. There is a Stfo\ ij m. N. E. of it. Faridabad sJ ra. N. of Ballabgarh and 16 m S. of Delhi. (A. 49. S.E.) (5) Badli, 8 m. N, W. of Delhi. Narela, 7 m. N. N. W. of that. Son&at 29 N. 77. 5 E., uj m N, W. of that Gunaurg m. N. W. of that, (A. 49. N. E.) Samalkha 29. 15 N. 77. 4 EvloJ m. S. of Panipat,<A, 49 N. W.) Gharaunda GULSHAN : STAGES AND t>!STA$CES. 10 ni N, of Panipat (A. 48 S. W.) (6) Probably the bridge over the canal, at the 6tfc tnile from Gharaundn, mentioned in the A. and C. Gaz> p. 25 . <7) Karnnl, lo m. N, of Gharaunda Taraori. 9 m. N, W. of Karnal (Azima- oad\$ given at the same locality, in L 9 as Taraori is in w4.) Thanesa* 29. 58 N. 76.54 E. (A. 48 S. W.) Shahabad 30.10 N. 76.55 E., 13 m N. of Thanesar (8) Douraha ke Serai, 25m. from Sirhind (A and C. Qaz. p 23.) &udhiana 30. 52. 30 N. 75. 54 E. Phulour 10 m N. N. W. of that (L. n.) Noorwahal, 7 m. E. of Nakodar. Nakodar 31.7.30 N. 75. 32 E. Dukhnee, 5 m. N. W. of that Sultanpur I3m. W. of that, here is the ferry over the Kalna river. Fuitehabad, 31. 23 N. 75. 10 E, Nowrungabad, & m. S. E. E, of Tarn Taran. (A. 30.) Noorooddeen Surace, 6 m. N. W. W. of Tarn Taran (L. 1 1), given in A 30 as Pindoree Husun. Surai-Amanut Khan, 31. 31 N. 74, 45. 30 E. (A 30.) [122 b] Continuation of the road from Akbarabad to Shah-Jahanabad. Deotdna (i) Serai- Kosi A $ucca serai Hodal with red stone gates on two sides. Banchari Old town Continua- tion of the road from Banchari to Shah-Jaha- nabad Del- hi. Serai-Kha- Rausha- wajah Ba- nu-d- khtdwar daula Khan. peopled Badarpur it (2) Serai Jalpd-di- kan? Tank of Sirdj Raja Shaikh Kishan Sharf ? Das (3) Serai- Mahdbat Khan. Bdrapula (4) Serai, in which the live, known as the . Sher Shah built af( tion of] the fort of city [it] became the Continua- tion of the road from Shah-Jaha- nabad to Lahor. 10 Umbala 4 Serai- Nun 2 Serai- Haijdm 3 Todar Mai 7 Akiah( 5 ) 7 Sirhind 7 Khannd 4 Serai- Lashk Khan Continu- ation of the road from Douraha Hushiar Khdn (6) Shah- ganj ar * Kdbul Multdn Azimabad Jaunpur Etdwa AbAd Muthra Kashmir 102 195 62 294 Sirhind Jalal Peshdwar Lahor loo 556 518 200 The citadel of Ldhor was in ancient .imes named Lahdwur ; and some call- sd it Lahdpur. It was founded by Lav, the son of Ramchandra, one of he 10 Incarnations. H over-looks the iver Ravi. Some ascribe the found- ition of the fort to Malik Aydz, a avourite of Sultan M ah mud. The Emperor Akbar repaired the wall ui rounding the town.t Kdbul Multdn Ravi 305 236 Ajmir Kasur Delhi 67 2 200 stipendiary Arabs Serai- Arab, Near it >rt. On [the founda- Shah Jahan in the old fort (?) (1} Dotana, 3 m, N. W, ofChata, Kosi, 3$ m. N. W. of Dotana Hodul m N. W. of Kosi (A. 50 N. E.) Banchari, 27. 56 N. 77. 25 E. (A.49 S. E.) 3*m I . of Hodul. * Distances in kos from Delhi to other towns. Abad is a mistake for \llahabad, t Distances in kot from Lahor to other towns. CHAHAK OULSHAN : STAGES AKD DISTANCES. (2) probably Madanpur, 5 m. N, E. E. of Tughlaqabad (Ibid.) (3) Not given in Atlas. But the A. and C Gas, (ii, 132) mentions it, ft* situated at 1 1 m. from the Turkpoman gate of Delhi. <4) There is a Barapula bridge near Delhi. (5) Aluwa, ii m. S. E. of Sirhind (A 48 N. W.) Sirhind 3037 N. 76* 27 E. Khanna^ ioj m N, W. W. of Sirhind. Serai- Lashkar Khart^ not given in Atlas, but mentioned in the A. andC. Gazetteer (ii. 26 ) as situated at 20 m, from Sirhind. *(6) Hosheear Nugur, 5m N. of Surai Amanut Khan, and only 2j m S. of the road from Amritsar to Lahor (A. 30 ) Shahganj'wis probably- the point on this road at which it was joined by the Delhi-Lahor road. [123 a.] From Ldhor! Continuation The stream Surkhab. From Gujrat, which is to Atak fort of the road From the canal Surkhab on the bank of the river ] from Lahor to Kabul. Another road Chenab, the road goes to Atak from the canal Surkhab towards Kashmir. The , to Kabul goes from the same road comes from 12 Shahdera Rabat (2) hilly vi Jai ? llage (?) Said Asraf- Shah-Jahanabad and above it, which [portion] (0 6 Faz;ldbdd Laskari ? Rawalpindi Chdrbagh- khurd nagar t Mir Ali has already been des- cribed. 2 Juahirma Hazira ? Charbagh- Mansur Daulatabdd 6Eminabad Kdldpani kalan Hajikhel (4) 7 Hakima- Hassan Serai-Chilla? Kunis ? Bhimbar badpur Abdal Gandamak Kamdlpur Chauki-hati 6 Cheemah- Madrota (3) Hausli ? Naushahra Ghakkar Atak fort Malik Ali Kar fort Chekand- River of overlooks Jagdalak Place of hati ? Wazirabad the Atak Barang ba- crossing Inayetpur (Chen A b) 2 Gujrat river. The Atak ri- dehat ? Serdhdna Rdjdur Thana FromRajaur the middle 4 Khwaspur ver. From Pi" ? Baramgaon road goes 4 Kindri Atak to Qahar Jab- Poshdna towards 8 Khariali Peshdwar : bar Serai AH Kashmir 3 Serai- Khairdbad Kabul khurd Mardan Alamgir Qasari ? Khak Sat ? Khan Ferry over Akhora Bagrami This is a ca- Said Hala ? Saifdbdd the river Sindh ? Kabul fort nal which Hirpur Poonch (5) (Jhilum) Kh4nkhdnan reaches the Shddimarg Aliabad 6 Said Khdn Peshawar Surkh-di- wall of the Khdnpur Oori 3 Nanranga- fort wdr?* lort. Bhaniar ? bad Jamrudh Ali-Boghan Bdra mula 4 Chokuha Lundikhana Jalalabad on 4 Khurda- Jalal Dah Ghuld- man the bank of the stream Lahor * Atak Jaldlabad Peshdwar 4 Mahsa ? 15 Paka AH Masjid Dhaka Snrkh-ab 35 M 2 64 ^ 2 4 Delhi Akbarabad Multdn Kashmir fort The Jhilum flows apart from the Chenab This small column comes between Dhaka and//*/. No name in this column has been traced. These are distances in kos from Kabul. 174 CHAHAR GULSHAN : STAGES AND DISTANCES. (1) Shahdura^ 3 m. N, of Labor fort. Faxiiabadv* mentioned by Tieflf. as 12 m. N. of Labor. Eminabad, 9 m. S. of Gujranwala (A 30,) Ghukur Cheemah xom. S. of Wazirabad, Wazirabad^ 32. 27 N. 74. n E., 9 m. N. of it is Gujrat* Khanwaspoor 1 1 m. N. N. W. of Gnjrat. Kin&ri may be Khrian t 10 m. N. W. of the last stage, while 5$ m. further N, W. is Kharyalah. Suraee Alumgeer and Naurangabad are both 3 m. S. E. of Jhelum city and 3 m. N.W, of Kharyalah (A. 29) Chokuha, 10 m. N. of Rohtas, Serai-i-Jalal Khan lorn, onward, and Paka 10 m. further on. (TiefTenthaler, i. 114.) (2) Rowat, ^3. 30 N. 73. 16 E. (A. 29) Kalctpani 5 m. S. of Hassan Abdal (TierT,),but A 14 gives Kala ka Serai 9 m. S. E. of that place, 33. 45 N. 72. 52 E, Madrota 7^ m. E. of Atak. Khairabad, on the W. bank of the Indus, opposite Atak. Akora 34. N. 72.10 E. Can Sindh c. be Serai-i-Khankbanan ? Jumrood 1 1 m. W. of Peshawar, Ally Musjid 10 m. on, Ltindee Khana \2\ m. further on, (34. 6 N. 71. 5 fL.)Dhaka 34. 12. 30 N. 71. 2 E. Surkh Deivar is men- tioned in A. and C. Gaz. (ii. pt. I, 57.) Ally Boghan, j\ m. S. E. of Jelalabad, which is at 34. 25 N. 70, 25 E. (A. 29) (3) Gandamak 29 m. S. W. of Jelalabad, Jagdalak 17 m. N. W. of the former. TierT. mentions Sher-Dahan 5 m. from Jagdali and TesiS m. onward. Kahar Jabar 18* m S. E. of Kabul. Khurd Kabul is 6 m. W. of K.-J,Bagram, 6 m. E, of Kabul and 10 m. N. W. of Khurd Kabul (L. 12.) (4) Daulatnagar^ 12 m. N. of Gujrat ; 16 m further north is Bhimbar\ 16 m. further north is Nowshera (A. 29) CJtauki-hati is mentioned by TiefT, (p. 88) as 4 royal miles N. of Bhimbar and as having a beautiful lake and a cave with two elephants carved on the rock. Chekand-hati may be Changiz-hati, 4^ m. N. of Nowshera (TierT.) Rajaori^ 33. 23 N. 74. 22 E., 16 m. N. N. E. of Nowshera. Thana 4! m. from Rajaori, Baramgula 3! m. further on, Poshana 2 m. on, Serai-i- Muhammad Kuli 3$ m. on (TiefT 88 and 89.) Between! Poshana and Hirapur, TierT. (p. 87) gives Serai Aliabad {- Serai AH Mardan Khan ?) ^and Serai Sokhta (=*Said Hala ?) Hirpur (10 m. N. of oshana, ace. to Tieff.) 18 m. S, S. W. of Khanpur ( which is n m S. of Srinagar, in Skein's Map.) For Shadimarg, Tieff. (p. 88) gives Shajamarg, 6 m. from Hirapur. (5) Poonch 33. 46 N. 74, 9 E. Oorie 34. 5 N. 74. 6, 30 E. Bhaniar 8J m. N. E. E. of it. Baramoola 10 m. further E. (Stein's Map). K INNER A 16, JONES STREET MM/!- -'51 CHAHAR GULSHAN : STAGES AND DISTANCES. [123. *.) From From Lahor From Delhi From Aj* From Mul- Continuation Kashmir to Multan. to Ajmir. mirtoGuj- tan to Bhak- of the road toAtak, rat. kar. from Multan. Bridge on Abul Hasan Serai of Ala- Garh Bith- Rindarpan? Abar-dhan. the river wardi (2). li [/.*., Kanpur (4). Oobati (5)* Jhilum. Ajmir]. Akanmasti Fort Bhakfcar. Martfil Aurangabad Patudhi. Jhalor Khaki. River Chenab Gahi? fort (3). Dipalpur passes on the Balias. Nowshahra Rewari. Gujrat vilage. further side (i). 12 kos ? Chauki- by the city. Serai Gaj- Mophal- from Aj- bhai? From Oobari pati ? kama.. mir. Jalalpur. the road goes Nimdurg ? S&rghar. Satghara. Kamal. Kotputli. Bardurayan? Gujrat. Alipnr. Sujaatpur. to Thatha, Bahrnalu ? Serai Sau- Chauki Chuksar ? Jahangira- Kist. dagar. Fatu. bad. Pargana Kanri ManzilSar- Harapa. Sambhar Murtaza Laliputra, had. village. Khan. Pargana Kala. Sultanpur. Muranda. Daran. Hakandi. Manzil Ch'.ha- Sarsara ? Uchh-barg. Pargana Saha, watni. Muhammad Bakas. Atak Bana- Ali Sahwa. From Ajmir to Tha- Waris. Pargana Na- ras. tha, the road is a sandy Janpuri. sarpur. Atak fort Talumba. desert, without any Hamid-be- already habitation. mahni ? Tamar- Daka- described. Fort Bahkran ? within Fatihdari. wara. jir- From Atakl Sard. the jurisdiction of Jesal- Palthunala? Muham- Guzar- to Rohtas- mir, Amarkot, Manu ? Murakh ? mad Khana garh. Pargana Bakr ? Par- Bhawani- Dani. River River Jhi- Khalid ? gana Jun. das. Multan. Che- lum. Cross [to] Thatha Baqr-pur. Banla. nab. Ferry over Mardanpur. [over] the same Chenab Sarkar (Haiat?) the Kala- i which has been des- ofBha- a pani. cribed. kkar. stream Randirasi ?( Adilpur which Bahsand ? Fort Thatha. Sultan- com- Hoii. pnr.* ing out Masnu ? , i ... 1. 1 of the Mahra. Chenab unites Maru. with the ocean. the road from aforesaid town. ^ From this place the Chenab to Thatha already described, goes to the \ (f) Surai Nowshehra, 31. n N-73. 53 ".Shutgurrah, 30. 55 N. 71.34. 30 E. There is a Mopalkee, 13 m. S. W. of the former and 13^ m N. of the latter, (A 30) Hurruppa, 12 m N, E E. of CheecJtawutnee (which is 30 34, 30 N. 72. 45 E.) Sahwa Gureeb, 6 m. W. of Ch. Tulumba 30 31 N. 72. 18 E. (A 17) Sird 19 m. W. of Tulumba, Kulalpoor&m. N. W. of Sird, Mundalpoor 36 m. N E. of Multan (Walker, India, xii.) (2) Alawirdi i m. N. of Gurgaon Railway Station, 28. 30 N. 77, 5 E. (A 49 S. E.) Pataudi 28. 19. 30 N. 76. 50. 30 E, Rewari 13 m. S. W. of the last JSULSHAN : STAGES AND DISTANCES, (A. 49 S, W,) Kot 27 . 42 N. 76.16 E. Puili is i m. S. W. of it. (A 50 N. W. Sambarzb. 55 N 75. 15 E. Chuksar maybe a mistake for Jubner 13$ m N.N.E of Sambar. Muranda may be a mistake for Momana 10^ m. S. W. of Sam bar (A. 33 S. E,) (3) Jhctlor 25. 22 N. 72. 37 E- (4) 29. 59 N. 71. 2i E., 9m S. E. of MuzurTergarh. Jalalpur^ 29. 30 N 71. 17 E. (A. 17) Janpuri may be Khanpur 28. 40 N. 70. 42 E (L. 12) (5) Oobaro, 37 m N. E. of Bukkur (L. 12.) [124 a.] Kabul fort. From Kabul Road of Multan. Pass of Greater to Ghaznin and from Maruf (2) Qandhdr Ghaznin to Qandhdr. Diar-maskir Road of Atak. Though all these three Ranj-had-andar. Karl. places belong to the Kafir-chili. Bidh-maruf. country of Turan, yet, Qaba-khel. Kh&ma sir. as they were for some Farkhu. Ddmudar. time in the possession of Kulab. Wdrun ? the Emperors of India, I Bakhil-ward. Chalkari. am writing of them. Aria-quama. Dera-Shaikh. Birah-durg Kul-tur. Sufid-sang (i). Lahumu-khel. Sakam-bara. Chdr-asia. Mir Hussain Dilir qom- Laghman ? Mulla-khel. Abddli. Deh-nau. Bandana Man- Ujha ? Danbara ? dar khel. Mihr Ali-Ghilzai. Bakhsawand ? Lant Ali. Kishu Ghilzai. Haft-dsia. Jarkhand. Kalu Ghilzai. Shash-g&on. Ganjur-had- KaliaVbahudi. Ser-i-dana. . ahami. Karkas-dddar. Tomb of Sultan Mah- Kul-hacl-nati- Kundar-dadar. mud. Ghaznin fort, khan. Kakluh. From Ghaznin. Kaski. Sarna. Dera N&ni Ekalut Hnkdnhdk ? Fardbdgh. Barik-diwdr. Sar Manzil. Bila? Tuli ? Kdkar-pup. Boundary of Qandhar i Aski? Shastal. ! Ab-i-tazi. Sar-i-asp. KaUt-i-Ghilzdi ? Another road t< Atak betweer the hills. Du-kaUn. Lailj-Majnun. Chashma-sidh Pucca bridge. Chdh-Alam. Pnra. Arti. Kuisir ? Kub-Mahmud. Pakuna. Pari. Wari ? fort. Ma-Makrani ? Hati fort. Rud-Balkh. San^-bakhsh. Lashkari. Dhdkd. Hajja-fort. Dehdia-Hajja (3 Kuchah. Dnraha. - fi) The A.andC, Gae.(u.p\. i. 57) mentions a Suffaid Sung "a large white stone the powder of which is said to cure manifold diseases !" But it is situated near Gundamuk. Char-a$ia> 9 m. S. of Kabul, Shashgao 14 m. N. of Ghazni, Sher-i-dana 3m. south of Shashgao. (L. 12) Haftasia 3m N. of Shash-gaon, Nani 12 m. S. of Ghazni. Sir-i-asp, 10 m, N. E of Kalat-i-Ghilzai (L. 12) Another map gives Ab-i-tazi 26 m. N. E. of Kalat-i-Ghilzai, which is 75 tm N. E. of Kandahar and Shaftal 5 m. further north. (2) There is a Maruf fa m. E. of Kandahar (L. 12) Another map gives Kafir Chah 50 m. E. of Maruf. (3) Deh-i^Haji, 19 m. S. E. of Kandahar (L. 12). CHAHAR GULSHAN : STAGES AND DISTANCES. [124 *.] Continuation Continuation Continuation Fron} Akbara* If from the of the road of of tho road of of the road of bad to Alla- Delhi road one Multan. Atak. Atak habad and goes to Patna Khar-Mdkran JaUl-Bdbarfort Bhang-dera from that place by the road Dera Ismail Zordih Sahi Chandar-wali to Patna. of Barili, the Khan Aurangabad Chabutra KabraofWa. route will be Ferry over the Israd-ankdr Ali-siri zir Khdn (2) the following ; river Musa-khel Fort of Ghazi Firuzabad ShahJahana* River of Atak Nabirah-Ma- Khan Shikoh-abad bad Continuation lik-qom River Atak Etdwah Cross the river of the road of Qabr-i-Hanud? Continuation Jumnd fumnd Multan : Road of Pdbar of the road Rajpura Shahdra (3) Fort of Darid Continuation of Atak Kora Serai-Basant ? Khan (i) of the road of Ferry of Qare- Hatgaon River Hindun Chatah apper- Atak shi (?) Shahzddpur Ghaziu-d-din taining to Ganj fort ap- Nurwala Fatihdbad nagar Ibrahim pertaining to M dru Allahabad,also Ddsna Kot Kornr Ghdzi Khan ? Barkhakar ? called Prayag Kdlan-deh-ni IV /Tt*% Ultimo Well of Bhd- and Tribeni. Hdpur iv 1 3,n K 1 1 liii a Kusuala bra Bdns Barili River Kdlini Rdhr Well of Kash- Hanuman- Bagsar Hasli-Chendb kuri nagari Rath-sahi ?* T") o Yf\ 1 Til IVTtilikpur fort Garh-Mukhte* j^J ft I U* tt 1 a. Shahjahanpur sar Some other roads go from Kabul to Atak, Sdndha River Ganges such as the one from the neighbourhood of Mulld Lusad- Bagri village Surkhdb and other places, but [they I a re] wali ? Amroha very difficult. Moradabad Lucknow City of Luck- * Bridge of Bd- now bd Dargdhi,a faqir follow- ing Guru Nd- * nak. (1) Duria Khan, 10 in. E of D. Ismail Khan. Kuror^ 31. 31 N.7I E (L 12) (2) Probably Itimadpur^ 14 m E. of Agra. Can the author be referring to the tomb of Itimadu-d-danla (the father of Nur-Jahan) on the left bank of the Jumna, which splendid mausoleum was completed in 1628 A. D, ? Firuzabad, 27. 9 N. 78. 28. 30 E. Shikohabad, n\ m. S. E E. of it ; Etawah^ 26. 46 N 79. 5 E. (A. 68) Rajfioor 13 m N. N. W. of Kalpi. Koorarah, 10 m. W. of Hamirpur, 25. 59 N. 80. 3 E (A. 69 N. E,) Htitgaon 17 m W of Manikpur on the south bank of the Ganges; Futtypour 9m. N, W. of Allahabad (Rennell, xiii) Shahzadpur 32 m. N. W. of Allahabad, on the S. bank of the Ganges (L. 10) Hoonooman^unj 10 m. E. of Allahabad fort, Sundha, 25. 18 N. 82. 38. 30 E. (A. 88). (3) Shahdara, 3 rn, E. of Delhi. Ghaziabad, n m. E. of Delhi (given in L, 9 as Gatsoodeenugur ) Dasna 6 m. E. of Ghaziabad ; Hapur 16 m, N. E.E. of Dasna. Bags&r, 6J m. W. of Garh Muktesar, which is 28, 47 N. 78.19, 30 E* (A. 49 N. E.) Bagri 10$ m S. W. W. of Amroha, which is 28. 54 N. 78. 32 E. Moradabad, i8J m E of Amroha (A. 67 N. W.) CHAHAR GULSHAK : STAGES AND DISTANCES. [125 *.] Conclusion of the Delhi- Patna Road. Rai Barili (i). Sehin Kathra. Dia-Mdi ? Bandras, on the Ganges. Serai-Said Raji ? Ghazipur, Buxar. Ranisdgar. Bisambhar. The River Son what- ever falls into it is turned into stone. The Province of Bihar or Azimabad Patna. River Hindun. Bridge of Barhana. Another road goes to- wards Kol from Shah Jahanabad : At the foot of the city [the river] is crossed. Patparganj (2). Chalera. Pucca Serai of Bhakar ? Serai Khasi : Begampur. Sikandra. Khurja. Well of Sitram. Chandaus. Kol. Hardndganj, At this place Sdbit Khan built SAbit-garh now known as Rdmgarh. (1) Rae Bareli>\ 49 m, S. E. E. of Cawnpur. Selon, 21 m. S. of R. B. (A 88) Ghazipur, 25. 35 N. 83. 39 E. Buxar, 25. 34. 30 N. 84.2.30 E. Raneesagur 25. 37 N. 84. 24 E. (A. 103) There is a Bisumhurpur, \v\ m. N. N. E. of Arrah, and west of the place where the Son falls into the Ganges. (2) 3$ m. S. E. of Delhi, on the eastern bank of the Jumna. Chalera, 5 m. S. E. E. of P, Begampur^ 28.29.30 N. 77.31 E. Sikandarabad^ 28.27 N. 77.45 E., 15 m. S. E.E. of B. Khurja, i6m. S. of Sikandarabad. Chandaus, \\\ m. S. of K. (A 49 S. E.) Koil, 2 m. S. of Aligarh. (A. 50 N. "E..)Hurdouh- gunge, 6 m. E. of Coel (L. 9.); not given in the Indian Atlas. CORRECTIONS. CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS x, line 3, for thougb read though. riii, 1. 17, for stan read tan. f. xv, 1. 13, insert bracket after Things. P. xxi, I. 28, for has been read was. P. xxxii, column of 1700, line of Ajmir, for 1,50,74,500 read P. xxxv, line of 1700,7^ 3,03,23 753 read 3,05,73753. P. Ixxvii, 1. 22, for cost price of read cost price of a ntaund of. P. 1,1. 2, for D. 153 read D 156. P. 4, 1. 27, for aud read and. P. 7, margin, jfor Imperia ;*/ Imperial. 1. ^2, for coolnes read coolness. P 10, foot note \ Jor celebrated read celebrated P. 12, 1. 1/,/w Abdu-1-Kadr read Abdu-1-Qadir 1. 30, for 1 165 read 1 166. P. 13, margin, /<?r Paniapt read Panipat. footnote f add 307 N. 76 12 E P. 14, 1. 24, for Bejaur read Pinjaur. ,. omit foot-note and read in its place Pinjaur, a town in the Patiala State, 30-48 N. 78-59 E., situated at the confluence of two tributaries of the Ghaggar. (7. ., xi. 184) Thornton's Gazetteer mentions that it has "a garden which has been laid out on the natural slope of the ground in six separate and successive terraces, one below another? Fidai Khan Azim Khan, the Koba or foster-brother of Aurangzib, died at Dacca in 1088 A. H. (1678 A. D.) -while acting as Governor of Bengal* His life is given in the Maasiru-I-Umara i. 247. P. 21, 1. 1 3, /0r from rau/form. P. 22, foot note , add Under Akbar this province had 8 Sarkars and 237 mahals. (A in. ii. 285). P. 24, foot-note ||, add but commonly called Polo. P. 26, 1. 20, for abnah read mangoes. I. 26, for excluding read including. , 1 30, for aud read and. 1. 31, for above (Am. ii. 311) read above excluding Bafi (Ain. ii. 182). l8<? CORRECTIONS. Page 28, 1. 4, for in the road read under a saw [i e., severed their heads]. margin,/0r earning read learning. omit footnote *. P. 31, 1. 2o/<?rcarvad read carved. P. 33, margin, /i^ Luc now read Lucknow. P. 35, 1. ij,for an read and. P, 36, 1. 2J,for upon read on P. 42, 1. 9, after Sandali insert [30- b] P. 43, 1. 8, for kunt read gunt P. 50, 1. 12, for Kalkarui rz&d. Kulkarni. margin, for owns r^^rf Towns. P. 51, 1. 6, *0 wonderful cock a</rf note Bernier refers to it, saying that the skin alone is black ; Constable (p. 251 footnote) quotes from Linschoten's Voyage to the East Indies^ "There are [in Mozambique] certain hens that are so black both of feathers, flesh, and bones, that being sodden they seen as black as ink, whereof some are likewise found in India." 1- 2 3> for sing read Sign. P. 52, foot-note IF, for 142 par ^anahs read 242 farganahs (wrongly printed as 142 in Jarrett's translation). P- 57>Jl- 8, insert in margin Revenue. P. 62, 1. 1 6, to Pattan add note Anhilwarra, 23* 5 1*30 N. 72* 10*30 E., and not Somnath, though both of them were called Pattan. P. 67, footnote *, after Mahi river insert (Elliot, v. 431; ft.) P. 71, footnote S,/^ ^1,655,284-1-2 read R 1,65 6,2 84- 13-2. P. 75, 1. 17, for viceregency read vicegerency. P, 80, 1. 28, for his read this. P. 90, 1. 21, for 1081 A. H. ( 1675 A. D. ) read 1084 A. H. (1674 A. D.) P. 98, 1. 9, to bismuth add note The text uses the word qaPi^ which also means tin. From the description it seems as if the author meant to speak of lime. P. 103, 1. 8, to Bauh add note The Indian Atlas (Sheet 30) gives Baoopur^ on the eastern bank of the ferry over the Bias, 31*1 5*30 N. 75* 10*30 E,, $J m. N. W. of Sultan* pur and j 5 m, E. of Puttee. CORRECTIONS, > iffc ; Page 106, 1. 24, to Dhundu Ranjha add note Ranjha and Hir were two Muhammadan lovers. *They are celt* brated in the Panjab as the types of constant lovers, much in the same way as Abelard and Heloise in Modern Europej or as Laili and Majnun in Arabic, and Farhad and Shirin in Persian story. Hir's tomb is about half a mile from the civil station of Jhang, and is marked on the survey map as "Mookurba Heer," which stands for "Maqbara-i-Hir," or Hir's monument. A mela is held at thft tomb in the month of Magh." '*Hir was the daughter of Chuchak, a Syal of Rangpur, in the MuzafTargarh District. Ranjha's true name was Didho ; he was by caste a Ranjha Jatt, and is known almost exclusively by his caste name. His father Manju was a Chaudhri or Revenue Collector, at Takht Hazara in the Gujranwala District." (Captain R. C. Temple's Legends of the Panjab^ vol. ii, 177) Their love-story is given below : Hir fell in love v/ith Ranjha, a buffalo-herd, but her mother forced her to marry a youth named Shida. She Iran away with Ranjha, and the two lived together at Jhang ; but in the end her caste-fellows murdered her, and Ranjha in grief jcaused himself to be buried alive in her grave. In later legends Ranjha figures as a wonder-working/fl^/r. Poems were composed by the following bards among others in con- nection with the above story : (i) Namodar Patwari of Jhang, (2) Waris Shah of Takht Hazara, (3) Hafiz Ahmad of Jhang, (5) Makbil, and (5) Roshan Shah. ^ I2I \ heading, for PANJAB read KASHMIR. P. I22J P. 123, 1. 10, for amawav read amawjjk P. 124, I I and elsewhere, for Chhri read Chhattar P. 125, 1. 8, for (granary ?) rawf (emporia) P. 126, 1. 1 3, /*r 6,93,56,570*^ 6,93,56,572 P. 128, 1. 30, for-i 5-17 read-l^-7 P. 133, 1 20, /i?r RS 1,40,72,722-15-7 read's^ 140,72,725-7-7 P- 137, 1- 13. for 156 read 269. P. 142, 1. 20, to revenue add note By deducting the revenues of the -other 10 Sarkars from the total provincial revenue, we get 2,61,40,625 dam (Rs. 6,53,5 15-10) as the revenue of Mandsor. P. 155, 1. 15, after this country insert [i. e., Kokan] 1. 19, after SARKARS insert OF KOKAN. 1. 20, for 348 read 748. CORRECTIONS. " 1. IT, /0r 265 read 235 . 1. 1 $,for 75,000 m*</ 45,000. \, i. 27, & Ladarbadri add note This obscure passage is cleared by t a - -reference to Tieffen thaler (p. 503), where we read that in going ism Nagarkot to Bijapur oue has to cross the Krishna and the Ifiihati rivers, and that in going from Bijapur to this fort the road is 30 miles if the Krishna is crossed at the fetry of Badari^ and 24 miles if the Krishna is crossed at Golar. Therefore, Ladar badrithe ferry (gusar) of Badari, Ladar kola - the ferry (guzar) of Golar, and Bahat=Kahati. P. 157, 1. i,/i?rText r*/*rftext. P, 158, L 21, /^property add note Khafi Khan. (Elliot, vii. 335) gives ''8,51,000 Jiutis and Rs. 2,00,53,000, altogether .Rs. 6,80,10,000, besides jewels c ...... The total in dams was 1,15,16,00,000 dams, which was the sum entered on the records." P' 159, 1- 19, for 6,72,780 12 as ^^6,72,780 12 as. P. 164, column 2,forgg read 39. P. 165, col. i, for Imtiar-garh read Imtiaz-garh Pi 168 col i, #/&/- Ban-ganga zk^r/ 1 (Pain- Can ga) ,, footnote (3), for N. N. E. read N. N. W ? , footnote(i2),/0?- Not t e r^^/ Not the P. 170, col. 2,/<?rSerai-Jandwaran nw/Serai-i-Khan-dauran. col. 3,yi?r Ambar r^^Ma'air ? P, 171, footnote (5), 1. I, for 8 m. read 7 m. and for 7 m. rnitf 8| m 1, 2, /0r 9 m. N. W. read 9 m. N. P. 172, footnete (8), 1. 6, for Suraee^ 6 m. read Suraec 3^ m. ,, 1. 7, for Pindorcc Husun read Nooroodecn.