OUTER COURT Palestine under the Moslems Guy Le Strange Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. « Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. B Description ot Sscia aiU> tbe tolg %Anb FROM A.D. 650 TO I5OO. TRANSLATKU FROM THE WORKS OP TN£ MEDIjEVAL ARAB GEOGRAPHERS BY G U Y LE STRANGE, WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRA TIONS, pi lil.lsnri) KOK THE COMMiTTEE OF THE FALKSTINE EXPLORATION FUND BY ALEXANDER P. WATT, 2. PATERNOS I KR SQUARE 1890. Digitized by Google 29341 • • 1 • • • • • • • * * • • • • • • « • » « « Digitized by Google TO AND FOR MANY VEARS SECRtTARV TO THE PALESTINE EXPU>RATION FUND, THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED, IN TOK.EN OF FRIENDSHIP AND £ST£EM, AND IN APPRECIATION or THE IMPORTANT WORK DONE BY HIM IN FORWARDING TIIL EXI'LORATION OK THE HOLY LAND. Digitized by Google PREFACE. It is the object of the present work to translate nnd thus render available the mass of interesting information about Palestine which lies buried in the Arabic texts of the Moslem geographers and traveUers of the Middle Ages. The materials, both printed and manuscript, are ample^ as will be seen from the list of authori- ties set forth in the Introduction ; hardly any attempt, however, has hitherto been made to render the contents of these Arabic texts available to the English reader. Some few of the works I (juote have, it is true, been translated either in whole or in part, into Latin, French, or Oernian ; but as far as T am aware, no Orientalist has as yet undertaken to translate, systematize, and bring mto comparison and chronological order, all the various accounts given by the Arab geographers of the cities, Holy Places, and districts of Palestine and Syria. These provinces of the Byzantine Empire were conquered by the Arab hordes within a few yean of the death of MtUiammad and, except for the interruption caused by the occupation of the Holy Land by the Crusaders, the country has remained under the rule of the Moslems down to the present day. Before the close of the third century after the Flight— corresponding with the ninth of the Christian era — the science of geography had already begun to be studied amutig the learned of Islam. The science, besides being theoretically ex[)0ijnded in their schools, was praciually treated of in the numerous Arab " Road Books," since the pilgrim- age to Mecca made every Moslem perforce a traveller once at least during the course of his life. To the diaries of some of these Digitized by Google PREFACE. pilgrims, whether coming from the western lands of Spain, or the further east of Persia and beyond — who visited Syria and Jerusalem on the journey to or from the Hijjiz — ^we owe the detailed and graphic descriptions of the Holy City and Damascus, and the Province of Syria, during the Middle Ages, which occur in the travels of such men as Ndsir-i-Khusrau the Persian, Ibn Jubair the Spaniard, and Ibn BatAtah the Berber. , It may be useful briefly to indicate the method I have adopted in carrying through my work. In dealing with the Arab writers, 1 have been careful to give in all cases an exact reference to the text houi which the translation has been made, in order that those who might tjuc^tjun my rendering should be al)le without loss of time to refer to the original. I may be allowed to point out that all the information contained in the present volume has been obtained at first hand, for though I have been careful to consult the works of other Orientalists who have translated some of the texts I quotes the translations now published I have in every case made myself from the Arabic or Persian originals. In dealing with disputed points relating to the position of the Holy Places in Jerusalem, I have briefly stated the conclusions which I thought were to be deduced from the accounts given by the Moslem writers of the foundation and history of the various edifices. Theories in respect to the jiosition of the Holy Places, however, form but a minor portion of my work, which has been to translate in full, atid, where needful, annulate, the texts I had before me. I am m hopes that others may be ah\c to build with the bricks I have thus fashioned, and again that from other printed texts and MSS., sunilar to those from which my materials have beerf drawn, other workers will bring to light frirther in- formation that will correct and enlarge what has been gathered together in these pages. Four years have now elapsed since I -began my work with the translation of Mukaddasi, dining an autumn and winter spent at Haifa, under Mount Carmel, in Palestine. The result of four years' labour is perhaps scanty. Those, however, who have ex- perience of the labour of searchin;^ and collating Arabic MSS. — or even the work with printed texts as the basis for translation — Digitized by Google PkEtACE. ix will bear me witness that the task Is long, and the search often to be repeated before any satis&ctory result is obtained. It is impossible to skim an Arabic book, and with every care the eye tires, and, passing over, often fails to note at the firi>L reading the passage that is sought for. In bringing my lalioiir^ to a conclusion, I have many to thank for aid afforded me m collecung and annotating the materials which form the groundwork of the present volume. In the first places I am under a debt of gratitude for the courtesy and liberality with which the librarians of the great public libraries of Paris, Munich, London, and Oxford, have answered my demands for access to the treasiires in their charge. The regulations of the foreign libranes are more liberal in the matter of loan than is the case at present with us at the British Museum and at the Bodleian. Under the guarantee of a letter of introduction, given me by the late Lord Lyons, at the time our Ambassador at Paris, M. Delisle, director of the Bibliothlque Natwnale^ allowed me to borrow and keep at my own house during many months, for the purposes of copying and collating, a number of Arabic MSS. belonging to the Paris T.ibrary, which I needed for my work on Suyuti. M. Schefer, the well-known Orientalist, who is at the head of the JieoU dts Langues Orientalcs Vivanies at Paris, also allowed me to carry away on loan, and keep during the greater part of the winter of 1886^7, a number of printed books from the library of the Eetii^ some of which I should with extreme difficulty have other- wise pfocnreda since many of the texts I required are already out of print To both these gentlemen my heartiest thanks are due. I need hardly point out how great was the boon they conferred on rae, in thus allowing me to carry away books and MSS. for perusal in the quiet of my own study ; in so doing s|)aring me the labour of copying and collating the texts amid the interruptions and the incessant coming and going unavoidable in the reading-room of a great public librar)\ As regards the Royal Library at Munich, too, I am deeply indebted to the courtesy of Dr. I^aubmann, the director, and his assistants. On two occasions, during the vacation, when the Digitized by Google X PREFACE, library is closed to the general public, an exception was made in my favour — ^though I came as a perfect stranger to these gentle- men— and free access was granted me to search and use the magnificent collection of Oriental manuscripts and printed books that is found here. In regard to the British Museum and the Bodleian, I can only express my acknowledgments to the various curators and officials of these two national libraries, for the facilities afforded me in there consulting books which the illiberal regulations of ilicse establishments render unavailable to students outside the wails of their respective reading-rooms. To friends and critics of my former publications 1 am indebted for corrections, emendations, and many valuable hints. In the first place, I have to thank Professor de Goeje^ of Leiden, for the trouble to which, he put himself in sending me a long letter filled with firiendly criticism of my translation of Mulcaddasi's DescnpHan of PaUsHne and Syria. To the contents of bis letter is largely due the revision I have made in the present translation. Colonel Sir Charles Wilson and Major Conder, R.E., have both most generously given me many learned and useful notes on Mnkaddasi^ N&sir-i-Khusrau, and Suyfiit ; and the former I have further to thank for his paper on the "Gates of the Noble Sanctuary at Jerusalem, " of which I have made a liberal use. Lastly, though his name ap[iears l)ut rarely in my notes, 1 owe a debt of gratitude to Professor Hayter-I^wis for his hook on the Ifo/y Places of JerusaUmt which I have found invaluable at many points of my present work. His practical knowledge of archi- tecture and the personal inspection he has given to the buildings and sites under discussion, together with the fact that Professor Hayter-Lewis has no pet theory to support, render his criticisms and conclusions of the highest possible value. A few words must be added on the system of transliteration of Arabic names employed throughout the following pages. In this I have made no attempt, by the use of letters with points or bars beneath, to auain absolute accuracy, and many inconsistencies will doubtless be discovered by my critics. Nearly all the Arabic place- names, however, will be found printed in Arabic letters in the Digitized by Google PREFACE. xi index, and this I deemed was necessary and useful for purposes of etymology ; while^ at the same time, it has dispensed with the use of dotted-letters in my text, or the adoption of a complicated sjrstem of transliteration. In regard to dates, unless specially noted to the contiaiy, the years arc given according to the Christian era. In the translations and elsewhere it has often been necessary to give the year accord- ing to the era of the Hijrah, and the corresponding year A.n. has then been added in brackets. It need hardly be pointed out that when two dates occur side by side--^^., 691 (72)--the higher figure is the year a.d., the lower the year a.h. In the second part of my worlc, which contains in alphabetical order the translation of all the notices I have been able to find in the Arab geographers of the towns, villages, and other places throughout the Province of Syria and Palestine, I have thought it well to add the distances in "miles,'* or "marches,'* "stages/' and days," which the various authorities give, as lying between neighbouring points. These distances will in some cases fix doul)tful positions, and in others will serve to mark the lines of communication luid the high-roads of commerce in use during the Middle Ages, and in the era of the Crusades. With so many dates, so many foreign names, and such a multi- tude of references as crowd my pages, though I have done my best to correct the proofs, many errors must necessarily have crept in. I shall feel most grateful to any reader who will point these out to me, and I shall hope, should a second edition be called for, to profit by the criticisms and corrections of those who may find occasion to consult these pages. G. LB S» 22, Piazza dp.ll' Indipendbnza, Fl-ORENCK, January i 1 890. Digitized by Google TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE , . , , . • xix PART T. INTRODUCTION. THE ARAB GEOGRAPHERS. LLST OF AUTHORITIES i— H CHArTKR T. SYRIA AND PALESTINE. The name As/i S/ii1m—Vhy><'ica\ features — Climate — PrcKlucts— Manners an«i L-u-.tom.s -EcstivaU— The Watch-station.s of the coast. Territorial Divisions: The Jundi or Military Districts — Jund Filastin — The Tih, or Desert of the \N'andcrings — The Jifar— Jund al Urdunn — The Ghaur — Jund Dimashk—The Ghiitah of Damascus, the Hauran, and Bathaniyyah, Jaulan, J aidur, and Hulah— The Bailed — Ash Sharah — Al Jibal — Jund Hims—Jund Kinnasrtn— Jund al 'Awisim — The Thughur — The Nine " Kingdoms " of Syria. Tribute and 7 axes — Weights and Measures . . . 14 — 51 CHAPTER IT. SYRIA .\ND PALESTINE {cotlthimd), Rtvers : The Jordan and its tributaries — The rivers of the coast — The rivers of Damascus— The Orontcs — Rivers of the northern provinces. Lakes: The Dead Sea— The Lake of Tiherias— The Hulah — Damascus Lakes— Lakes of Hims and of Alamiyyah — Lakes of Anti^xrh. Mountains : Sinai — Mount Hor — The Mount of Olives — Mountain- chains of Palestine ; Ehal and Gerizim, Jabal 'Aroilah — The Jaul&n hills— Lebanon mountains—Mountains round Damasctis^Hermon— -"Jabal al Lukkam . . . . 52—82 d by Google xiv TABLE OF CONTENTS. rHAPTER TTL JERUSALEM. Names of the Holy City — Advantages of Jenisalem — Fertility— Position — Territory of the Holy City. The Mosque a! Aku'i : The Prophet's Ni^}il Journey — The i)ri<;in of the Mosque al Aksa — 'Omar's early building and that of 'Abd al Malik — Earthquake of the year 130 (746), and restoration of the mosque by Al Mansur artd Al Mahdi— The technical meaning of the term Afasjid, or Mosque — Mukaddasi's description of the Aksa in 985 — The Talisman and tlie Maksiirahs— 1-larthquakes of IQ16 and 1034 — Inscriptions relating to repairs — Description of the Aksa by Nasir- i'Khusrau in 1047 — Dimensions of the mosque — The Crusades — The mosque given over to the Templars — Description by Idrisj and 'Ali of lieral — Saladin's recoiu|uei>t of Jerusalem and restoration of the Aksa in 1 187— Description by Mujir ad Din in 1496— Modern mosque. y'//t' Dome of the Rock : The Rock — The d(^me built over it by 'Abd al Malik in 691 — Mr. Fergusson's theory disproved — 'Abd al Malik's great inscription — Al Mamdn's inscription on the doors — Description of the dome by Ibn al Fakth in 903 — Arrangement of the piers and pillars — Istakhri and Ibn Ilaukal's description — That of Mukaddasi, 985 — The earthquake of 1016 and the inscriptions recording repairs— Nasir-i-Khusrau's visit in 1047 — The fall of the great lantern in 1060 — The (.'rusadcrs and the Templum Domini — Temple-churches and Rafael's picture of the Sposalizio — Idrisi's i account in 1154 — 'All of Herat in 1173? railing rounrl the 1 Rock, ainl tJiher details — Pieces of the rock taken by the Crusaders as relics — Saladin's restoration — His great inscription in the Dome — Ibn BatOtah's visit in 1355 — Destruction of the Cupola by fire in 1448 — SuytUi's description of the Ffx>tprint of the Proiihet, the Cave, , and other marvels — Mujtr ad Din's measurements . . 83 — 137 CHAPTER IV. JERUSALEM {continued). Traditional Aecotints : 'Omnr's finding of the Rock — The .Service insti- tuted by the Khnlif 'Abd al Malik. Ihe Dome of the Chain: .Minor domes — The platform and stair- ways—The Court and the liaram Area — The Cradle of Jesus and » ^ Stables of Solomon — Minor buildings — Minarets 138 — 172 I y ■ ^ I [ ^ dbyGooglei,. TABLE OF CONTENTS. xv CHAPTER V. JERUSALEM {continued). The Gates of the Har.im Area— The Colonnades— Size of the Haram Area — The Tanks anfl PnoU. The Church of the Kemiyection : The Miracle of the Holy Fite — The Garden of Gethsemane — The Tomb of the Virgin — Pater Noster Church and Hethany — The Church of the Ascension and of the Jacobites — ^Thc Church of Sion and Gallicantus. City Gates: The Castle — IVadi Jahannum and the Tomb of Altsalnm. Th, Plaiu, A> Sahirah : The rool of Siloam— The Well of Job- Cavern of Korah ; 173 — 223 CHAPTER VL Description by Mukaddasi in 985 a.d. — The Great Mosque — Mosaics — City Gates — Other accounts — The rivers of Damascus — Villages round the City— The Ghautah, or Plain, of Damascus — The various water-courses — The of Jesus — Ibn Jubair's description of the City and Mosque in 1184 — The ascent of the Great Dome — The two descriptions of the Clepsydra — Ibn Batutah's description in — Shrines — Suburbs — Traditions — Burning of the Mosque by Timur-Leng ._ 224 — 273 CHAPTER VII. I.F.r.RNDS AND MARVRI-S. Ar A'aiim an<l the Cave of the Slocpors — Zu_(:har (Zoar, Scgor), the Cities of Lot, and the Legend of Lot's daughters—^/ A'alt and the Well of the Leaf— Urim and the Ancient Temple — 'Ain al Jihah and the Menhir — Ba'albakk and the Great Stones — Bait Lahm (Ucth- lehcm) and the Ba^tjlica of Constantino — An Nasirah (Nazareth) and the Wonderful Tree ■ 274—^02 d by Google xvi TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTKR VITT. PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. Ar Ramlahf founded by the Khalif Sulaiman— The White Mosque — Hebron: The Tombs of the Patriarchs— Visits to the Cave of Mach- pelah — Invention of the Tomb of Joseph. Acre ('Akkali) : Construc- tion of the Port by Ibn Tuluu. Tiberias (Tabariyyah) : The Thermal Springs and Baths — The Tomb of David ; ; 303 — 341 CHAPTER IX. PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS {continued). Tyre (Sur). Sidon (Saida). Tripoli (Tarabulus, or Atrabulus) : The QIJ and the New Town — The Castles of the Assassins. Hints (Emessa) : The Talisman against Scorpions. Ham&h (Hamath) ; The Ancient Castle. Alepto (Ilalab) : Ibn Biitlan*s Description- The Castle. Antioih (.Antiikiyyah) : Christian Churches and Convents — Descrip- tion by Ibn Putlan — The Great Storm of the Year loso A.U.— Tradition of Habib an Majar. Tarsus: The Frontier Fortress, and the Garrison ; ; . ; , ^42 — 378 PART IL ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLACES IN PALESTINE AND SYRIA . . ^ ^ . . , 379—556 APPENDIX. Note on the builder of the great Aksa Mosque . 557 INDEX ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 550 — 60^ d by Goo^^ 4 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Thb Dome of the Rock and the Dome of the Chain ...... ^mthplm Plan ok the Mosque of Ihn I ulln, in Old Cairo . 95 Plan of the Aksa Mosque, AccoRDiNr, to the descrip- tion of Al Mukaddasi in 985 A.D. . t»/ac€ 99 Plan of the Aksa Mosque, according to the descrip- tion OF NAsir-i-Khusrav in X047 A.a . tofaa fo6 Plan of the AxsX Mosque at the present day . I0 fate 1 10 View of the North Front and Portico of the Aksa MosgUE AT THE i RESENT DAY . . to faCC III Flan of the Dome of the Rock and the Dome of the Chaih at the present day . . . iofm 114 Plan of the Dome of the Rock in the time of NAsir-i-Khusratj, in 1047 a.d. .126 Plan of i hi Haram Area in the time of NASiR-i-KHLNRAr, 1047 A.D. . . . to fac€ 150 Plan of the Haram Area at the prf'^ent day . iafaa 172 Elevation of the South Wall of the Haram Area, and OF THE East Wall at the present day . Ufau 177 Southern End of the Aks\ Mosque and Wall of THE Haram Area, showing xiiL remains of the A^clENT Double Gate . . . iojace 181 b Digitized by Google LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, FAOI View of Passage-wav under ihi: Aksa Mosque, lead- ing UP FROM THE ANCIENT DOUBLE GaTE . tO /ace 1 82 ANaXMT SiNGLS GaTB, EXTERIOR OF THE SoUTH WALL or THE Haram Area. . ia/ace 183 Ancibmt Triple Gate, exterior of the South Wall OF the Haram Area .to Jiue 184 Plan of the Great Omayvad Mosque at Damascus at the present day .... iff/ate 326 Plan of the Sahctuary at Hebron . •313 Map of Palestine and Syria during the Middle Ages, according to the descriptions of the Arab Geographers . . . . So/aee 14 Map of Jerusalem and its immediate Environs, 985 — 1052 A.D. .... to /ue 83 Digitized by Google CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. DttUs in brackets refer to the yean oj the Hijrak, • A.i>. 632, June (a.h. ii). Death of Muhammad, Abu Bakr Khalh. „ 634, Aug. (13). 'Omar Khalif. „ 634, Sept (13). Greeks defeated on the Yarm<ik (Hieromax). ff ^35 (14)* Capitulation of Damascus. Defeat of Greeks at Fflil (Pella). Jordan Province reduced. n (15)- Emessa and Antioch taken. Reduction of Northern Syria. Defeat of Greeks at Ajnadain. Cities of Pales- tine from Gaza to Nabulus taken. Capituiaiion of Jerusalem. ^ 639(18). Mu'dwiyah Governor of Syria. „ 644 (24). Othman Rhalif. „ 656 (35). 'Ali Khalif. „ 661 (40). Hasan succeeds 'Ali, hut abdicates in favour oi Mu'awiyah, first Khalif of the House of Omayyah. „ 661 — 75a Fourteen Omayyad KbaUls reigning at Damascus, viz. : Mu'ftwiyab I., a.d. 661 (41). Yaztd I.» 680 (60). Mu awiyah II., 683 (64). Marwan I., 683 (64). 'AM al M.tlik, 685 (65). Al VVaiid I., 705 (86). Sulaiman, 715 (96). 'Omar ibn 'AM al 'Aziz, 717 {99). Ya^td II., 720 (loi). Hish&m, 724 (105). Al Walid II., 743 (125). Yaxid III., 744 (126). Ibrahtm. Marwan II., 744 (127); defeated and slaiu A.D. 750 (132). » 75® ('f.l^) [ iist of the Abbaside Dynasty, As Saffah Kiialif, Bagi)dad becomes the seat of their Government. Thirty-seven Khalifs in all, from a.d. 750 to 1258 A — 2 Digitized by Google XX CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE, The first fifteen whose sovere^;iity mts acknowledged in Syria were : As Sa0lhA.i>. 750(132). Al MaasOr, 754 (136). Al Malidl, 775 (158). Al Hftdl. 78s (169). Ar Rashtd, 786 (tyo). Al Amfn, 809 (193). Al Mamfin, 813 (198). Al Mu'tnsim, S33 Al Wathik, 842 (227). Al Mula- wakkil. 847 (232). Al Muntrisir. 861 (247). Al Mustaln. 862 (248). Al Mu'tazz, 866 (251). Al Muhladi, 869 (255). Al Mu'iainid, 870 (256). From A.n. 892 to 1258 twenty-two Khalifs who, for the most pari, were ODiy acknowledged as the apirituat sovereigns of the Muslims in Syria. A.D. 878 (264). Ahmad ibn TAlQn, Independent Governor of Egypt, gains possession of Syria, which remains in the power of the TftlQnide Governors of Egypt, viz. : Ahmad iba TOHbi, a.d. 868 (254) Kbnmftiawaib, 883 (270). Jaisb AlNi-I 'Asflkir, 895 (382). HftrAn, 896 (283), to A.O. 904 (292). „ 906 (293). Damascus and other towns of Syria plundered during the inroad of the Karmathians* „ 934 — 969 (323- 358). Ikhshtd! Princes of Egypt hold Damascus with Southern Syria and Palestine, vvl : Muhammad al Ikhsktd» A.D. 934 (323). Aba-1 KIsiro, 946 (334)* 'All, 960(349). Kftiar,966(355). Abu-l Faw&ris Ahmad, 968 (357X 19 944 — 1^3(333 — 394)* Hamddnt Princes of Aleppo hold the Districts of Northern Syriai viZi : Saif ad DanUh, A.11. 944 (333). Sa*ad ad Danlah, 967 (356). Said ad Daulab, 991 (381). «» 9^ (35^)' ^ Mu'izz, fourth Fatimite Khalif, gains possession of Egypt, and drives the Ikhshtdls out of Southern Syria and Palestine. Fourteen Fatimite Khalifs of Egypt, viz. : Al Mahdt, A.i>. 909 (297). Al Kiim, 934 (322). Al Maasar, 945 (334). Al Mn'iax. 952 (341). Al 'A«l«, 97S O^S). Al H&kim, 996 (386). Adh Dh&hir, 1020 (41 1> At Mttstansir, 1035 (427). Al Mnsla'ali, 1094 (487). Al Amir, IIOI (405). Al Hafi/, 1130 (524). At?h Dhafir, 1149(544). Al Fnir, T 15 1(5?*^^ Al Adid, 1160 (555). „ X070 (463). Alp Arslan, the Saljuk, cun'iiiers Aleppo and the cities of Northern Syria, in the name of the Abbaside Digitized by Google CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. xxi Khalif of Bagi^dad, Al Kami. Ansuz (or Atsiz), the Turkoman, conquers Jerusalem, and afterwards Til^erias and Damascus \ ith their territories, in the name of the Ahbaside Khaiits. A.D. 1091 (484). il (JhM and Sukaian, sons of Ortok, Governors of Jerusalem. „ 1096 (489). Jerusalem retaken by the Fatimite General of Al Musla'ali. n 1098 (491). Antioch and Ma'arrah taken by the Crusaders. M 1 099^ July (492 ). Jerusalon conquered by Godfrey de Bouillon. Latin Kings of Jerusalem, viz, : Godfrey, 1099; Baldwin I., 1100; Baldwin II., 11 18; Fulk, 1 131 ; Baldwin IIL, 1144. „ 1147. Second Crusade ; 1 148, failure of Siege of Damascus ; 1 153, Ascalon taken. 1 154 (549). NQr ad Dtn ZankI, Sultan of Damascus. 1169(565). Saladin, his Lieutenant in Egypt; 1171 (566), Saladtn proclaims the supremacy of the Abbasides, and suppresses the l atimite Khalifalc of Egypt. Latin Kings of Jerusalem {<-ontinued) : Almcric, 1162; Baldwin IV., 1173; lialUwin V., 1186; Guy <le Lusignan, 1186 to 1 187. „ 1 174 (569). Death of NAr ad Din ; Saladin takes possession of Damascus. „ 1 187, July (583). Defeat of Crusaders at Hattin ; Saladin re- con(iuers Jerusalem. „ 1188—1192. Third Crusade; 1191, Richard Coiur de Lion and Phih'ppe Auguste reconquer Acre. »t ' '93 (5^9)- Death of Saladin ; he is succeeded by his three sons : Al Afdal, at Damascus ; Al 'Aziz, at Cairo ; Adh Dhdhir, at Aleppa „ 1 193. Fourth Crusade, loss of Jafla. n 119^ (593)' ^ Malik al 'Adil, brother of Saladin, becomes Sultan of Damascus. „ 1204. Fifth Crusade, I^in Empire of Constantinople. „ 1 2 18. Sixth Crusade, conquest of Damietta. „ 1229. Emperor Frederick IL obtains Jerusalem by treaty frotu Sultan Kamil of Egypt ; ten years' truce. Digitized by Google xxii CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. A.D. 1240. Seventh Crusade, Richnrd Earl of Cornwall. „ 1244. Tenisalem snckcd hy the Khiin/.inians. „ 1245. Eighth Crusade, St. I.uuis IX. takes Damietta. „ 1250(648). Eibek, Mam luk Sultan of Egypt. From 1250 to 1390 twenty-five M.milvik (Bahrite) soltaos of I\L;ypl, lo whom Syria was dependcnl. 1260 — 1277 (658-676). Ht^lacji% grandson of Jenghs Khan, the Mongol, seizes Damascus and Northern Syria. The Mongols are beaten at 'Ain Jil&d by Sultan Kutuz, of Egypt, who regains jwssession of Syria. „ 1260(658). Baibars, Sultan of Egypt; 1265, captures Caesarea, 'Athltth, Haifi and Anfif ; 1266^ takes Safed ; 1268, takes Jaffa, Shakff (Beaufort), and Antioch. „ 1279 (678). Sultan KaUt'On of Egypt. Campaign in Syria, sack of Tripoli. „ 1290 (689). Sultan Salfth ad'Dfn Khaltl captures Acre, Tyre, BairOt and Sidon. „ 1390 (792). Sultan ii.ukuk. From 1390 to 1316 twciUy-four Mamluk (Burjite) sultans of Egypt, to whom Syria was nominally depeadait „ 1400 (803) Timfir-Leng conquers Ham^h, Hims and Ba'al- bakk ; 1401, takes Damascus and burns the greater part of the city. „ 1516 (922). Syria and Egypt conquered by Sultan Selim, of Constantinople. Digitized by Google E RR A T A. 27, line i6»>r Mitelene." read ** MelKeoe.*' rugt 36, line t<t,/»r ** Al Karadiiyyah/' read " Al Kurasbiyjrab." Plim^ 37, line 36, /or •* Armoricum,'* read " Amorium." Page 56, line 9, fitr/ore " Khumaruwaih," dtr/<! " the " Page 81, line 9,>r '* Jalwl al Khali," reoif •♦Jalwil al Khait." Page 92, line 2. See note to this, Appendix, p. 557. Page 489, line 7, /or " Al Kiirai>hiyyah," fea*/ " Al Kurashiyyah." Page 499, heading and lini: ii, /i/r " Ml 1 elknf.," read " Mri.ITENR." Page 544, line 26, the paragraph on TartCs (Tortosa) should be added to wliat is given 00 p. 395, under the hcailing ANTARTi^s. Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLExMS. FAKT I. INTRODUCTION, u , ; THE ARAB GEOGRAPHERS, For purposes of reference a list is here given of the Arab geographers and historians whose works are quoted in the follow- ing pages. In addition a short biographical .summary is {)R' fixed to tlic indication of the edition of the Arabic text from whicli the translations have been made. Further information rone crning tlic various authorities and their works will generally be found in the prefaces of the editions quoted in the present work. The earliest extant Arab books on geography and history date from the ninth century A.D., for it will be remembered that the Muslims did not begin to write books until fully two centuries bad elapsed after the era of the Flight. From this period, however, that is, from about the middle of the ninth century and down to the end of the fifteenth of the Christian era, the names of authors follow each other at very short intervals, and the list shows over a score of writers, all Muslims^ and nearly all writing in Arabic, who describe for us, sometimes in considerable detail, the various provinces of Syria and Palestine. The list is long, Init it should be stated that in many cases we have not, in the works lierc nauicd, exclusively the results of personal observation or information at first hand. Arab authors I Digitized by Google a PALEfT'lKJ£ VNDER THE MOSLEMS, •* *. •* have plagiarized, e^ich' from his predecessor, to a ver>' remarkable degree; neitKi^V. ts the debt always duly acknowledged. Each tried to rta^e^ his work as complete as possible by incorporating therciin alf "he could gather from previous writers, adding some- thiQg'^m personal observation when the author himself happened %tq.*^ve visited the places described. This constant plagiarism, \ though it tends to decrease the amount of new information, is, in one way, not without its value, since by a comparison of the borrowed texts we are enabled to correct the mistakes of copyists and fill in many lacunae. The following is the li^iLo^oiir authorities : 1. Ibn Khurdadbih. This writer was a Persian by birth, as his father's name shows, for Khitrddd-bih signifies in old Persian Good Gift of the Sun (as the Greeks would have said, Helwdorus). Ibn Khurdadbih was bom about the commencement of the third century of Hijrah (corresponding to the ninth of our era) and flourished at the court of the Abbaside Khalif Al Mu'tamid, at Baghdad. Ibn Khurd&dbih held the office of Chief of the Post in the province of Jibil, the ancient Media, and with a view, doubtless, of instructing his subordinates, compiled the Hand- hook of Routes and Countries,''^ which has come down to us as one of ilic earliest of Muslim geographical treatises. The translations here given are made from the Aral)i( text published by C. Barbier de Meynard in the Journal Asiatique for the year 1865. 2. The work of Biladhuri is of an entirely different order to the foregoing, and only in a very secondary sense geographical. His is the earliest historical account we possess of the Conquests of the Muslims. He was bom at Baghdad, and received his educa- tion there during the days of the great Khalif, Al MtmiUi, and lived to enjoy the favour of both Al Mutawakkil and Al Musta'in, his successors. BilSdhurt wrote his Book of the Conquests ^ about the year 869, and died in 892. His work is unfortunately almost barren of geographical description, the names of the places only being giN en, and nothing more ; all detail is confined to the ordering of the battles, and the biographical notices of those who took part in the actions. Digitized by Google THE ARAB GEOGRAPHERS. 3 The translations arc from the text called JCiW J^u/M a/ Buld&Hf published by M. J. de Goeje, Leiden, 1866. 3. Koddmah, the author of a wotk on the revenues of the Mush'm Bmpire, written about the year 8Bo^ was of Christian origin, but, like most of his compeers, he had found it to his advantage to embmce Islam. He occupied the post of accountant in the Revenue Department at Baghdad, and we know nothing further of his biography except that he died in 948. ■\ <5^^ A translation, with extracts fVoni ihc Anil>K icxl, is given by McG. de Slane, uiidcr the title of Kitai> al Kharaj\ in the Journal Asiatiqm for 1862, and from this the details of revenues of Syria inserted in Chapter i. are taken. : .; 4. Ya'kubi (also called Ibn Widhih) was both historian and geo- grapher. In his History, whi( h was wTi'tten as early as the year 87 4, he states that the Dome of the Rock was the work of the Khalif 'Abd al M^tk, and gives the reason that prompted this prince to construct it. This is the earliest account we possess of the origin of this important building, and it refutes the theory advocated by the late Mr. Fergusson, that the Dome of the Rock was originally a Byzantine church. * *^ History, and aliout the year 891. It unfortunately has not reached us in a perfect state, but the section relating to Syria is tolerably '"omplete. The work is curiuus, for it ^ives notes on the settle- ments made by the various Arab tribes who had micjated into Syria ; otherwise the book is little more than a bare list of pro- vinces, with their chief cities, and is only interesting for the information given of what were the great towns in those early Of YalcObi's biography but litde is known. It would appear that he was born in Egypt, passed the earlier part of his life in IChunis&n and the further east, and came back to spend hb latter years on the banks of the Nile in the land of his birth* The text of the " Geography " was edited by A. W. T. Juynboll, Ix'iden, 1861, and it is from this edition the translations are made. The text of the " History,'' under \ a'kubi's alternative name of Ibn Wadhih, has been edited by M. T. Houtsma, Leiden, 1883. many years later than his days. . I — a Digitized by Google I 4 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. 5. Ibn al Fakih, the author of a ver>' curious geographical miscellany, was a native of Hamadani in Western Persia, and flourished during the Khalifate of Al Mu'tadhid at Baghdad. He wrote his work about the year 903, but unfortunately we only possess it in the form of a somewhat arbitrary abridgment made by a certain 'Ali Shaizari, of whom little more is known than his name. Ibn al Fakih gives a careful description of the Haram Area at Jerusalem, and is also the first Arab author to describe the great stuncs at Baalbek, oi' which he notes the measurements- The text of the epitome of his work forms the filth volume of the Jjiblwtheca Geo^raphorum Arabicorum^ edited by M. J. de Goeje, I^iden, 1885. 6. The next name on the list is that of a Spanish Arab, Ibn 'Abd Kabbih, bom at Cordova in 860, and died in the same city in 940. He composed an extremely interesting historical work, extending to three volumes in the Cairo printed edition, giving details of the life, and manners and customs, of the pre-Islamk Arabs and others. The book is named " The Collar of VfUqiJJ^^ J^arls" and in it there is a diapter describing in great detail the . appearance of the Haram Area at Jerusalem. Whether the author ever visited the Holy City is not known ; some parts of his de- scription are identical with what is found in Ibn ai 1 akiii b work, just named ; hut many details again vary from the account there given. 1 he Arabic text has been printed at Bulak, Cairo, in a.h. 1293 (1876), under the title A/ 'Ikd al J'arui. 7. Mas'udi is the author of one of the most entertaining his- torical works to be found in the whole range of Muslim literature. His Meadows of Gold'' begin with the Creation, and recount all the Arabs knew of universal history down to the year 943, when the work was written. Mas*fidi was bom in Baghdad towards the end of the ij%ath century of our era. In his youth he travelled far and wide, visiting MultSn and parts of India, and passing through J'ersia a second time on his way to India and Ceylon, whence he returned to liaghdad via Madagascar. He travelled through Palestine in 926, and spent some time at Antio( h ; then went and settled in Egypt about the year 955, where he died a year later, at Digitized by Google THE ARAB GEOGRAPHERS, $ Fustat, now called Old Cairo. Scattered broadcast among his many volumes of historic lore are a number of geographical notes, which are of considerable value, by reason of the early period at which the author wrote, his acuteness of observation, and his grcit Ictming. .' The Arabic text, with a French translaiion, of the '''' Meadows of Go/d'^ {AfuruJ adh Dhahah) has l)een publi^ht^d by C. "Rarbier de Meynard and F. de Courteilie in nine vols., Paris, 1861-77 \ 2Uid it is from this text the translations have been made, /^^ 8 and 9. The names of Istakhri (who wrote in 951), and Ibn— y-J^/ Haukal (who wrote in 97S), must be taken together, for the latter, who is the better-known author of the two, only brought out an amended and somewhat enlarged edition of the work of the former, and to which he gave his own name. We have in this double book the first systematic Arab geography. It is not a mere Road Book, such as Is Ibn Kurdddbih*s work, nor a Revenue List, like Kudamah's — but a careful description of each province in turn of the Muslim luu})ire, with the chief cities aiul nuuiijle places. Istakhri, a native of Persepolis, as his name implies, states that he wrote his book to explain the maps which had been drawn up by a certam Halkhi, about the year 921, which maps arc unfortunately not extant. Of Istakhri and Ibn Haukal all that we know is that they were both by trade merchants, and that they travelled far and wide in the pursuit of commerce. All biographical details of their hves are wanting. The texts of Istakhri and Ibn Haukal form the first and second volumes of M. J. de Goeje's JSibiiotheea Geographorum Aratiatrum^ Leiden, 1870, 1873. The translation is made from whichever has proved to be the fuller narrative of the two, generally but not invariably that found in Ibn Haukal's work. 10. Al Mukaddasi, "the HierosoiDinitc,"' was horn at Jerusalem in 946. He had the advantage of an excellent education, and after having made the Pilgrimage to Makkah in his twentieth year, deternnned to devote himself to the study of geography, l or the purpose of acquiring the necessary information he undertook a series of journeys which lasted over a score of years, and carried him in turn through all the countries of Islam. It was only in Digitized by Google 6 PALESTINE UNDER THE, MOSLEMS, 985 that he set himself to write his book, which gives us a sys- tematic account of all the places and regions he had visited. His description of Palestine, and especially of Jerusalem, his native city, is one of the best parts of the work. All he wrote is the fruit of his own observation, and his descriptions of the manners and customs of the various luilions and the physical features of the various countries, bear the stamp of a shrewd and obser^'ant mind, fortified by a profound knowledge of both books and men. The translation of Mukaddasi I have already given in one of the publications of the Palestine Pilgrims' Text Soeiety^ and it is made from the Arabic text published as the third volume of M. J. de Goeje s BtbOoikeca cited above, to which text the pages given have reference. 1 1. Rather more than half a century later than Mukaddasi, and about half a century before the first Crusade, the Persian traveller, Nisir-i-Khusrau. passed through Palestine on his way to Makkah. He was in Jerusalem in 1047, ^^'^ des(:ri[)tion of the Holy City and the Haram Area is most minute, and extremely valuable, as being the last we have of the holy places l)efore the coming of the Crusaders. Nasir was born in the neighbourhood of JJalkh, in 1003, and during the earlier years of his life travelled in India, where he lived for some time at the court of the celebrated Sultan MahmOd of Ghazni. He subsequently undertook the pilgrimage to Makkah, and it was on this occasion that he passed through Palestine and sojourned at Jerusalem. The portion of his Diary having reference to the Holy Land I have translated (from the Persian original) in a recent number of the Palestine Pilgrimi Texts. The Persian text used is that collated from two MSS. in the British Museum {Ad. 184 18, and Or, 1 991). A French translation of Nasir-i-Khusrau, with tlie Persian text following, has been given h\ Schefer under the title of Sefer Nameh^ Paris, 1881. Th I'ritish Museum MSS., however, give several new and important readings, and enable us to clear up not a few of the obsrurities found in the French translation. 13. Ibn Butlan's description of Antioch, and of some other of the cities of S)Tia, is only known to us by the extracts preserved Digitized by Google THE ARAB GEOGRAPHERS. 7 in Yfikikfs great Geographical Dictionary (see below. No. i6), and no copy, apparently, of the original work is preserved among the OriciiLil inaimscript cuUections of our European libraries. YakQt quotes the text verbatim from the Epistle {Risdlah), whicii Ibn Butlan addressed to his iricnd, Abu'l Husain Hillal il)n al Muhsin as Sabi, at liaj^htkul. The Epistle was written "in the year 440 and odd," says Yakut ; a date, however, mentioned inci- dentally in the course of the narrative, shows that Ibn Butl&nmust have passed through Antioch during the year 443 (a.d. 105 1). Ibn ButUln was a well-known Christian Arab physician, and a native of Baghdad. In 439 (a.o. 1047) he set out from that city to visit his Egyptian rival, the physician Ibn Rudhwdn, at QakOt and, going thence to Constantinople, took his return journey through Antioch. Here, age and the vanity of human wisdom caused him to abandon the world, and he Ijecame a monk, dying ver}' shortly alui wards at Antioch, in the year 444 (1052 a.d.). 13. The geograj)her Idrisi, is perhaps better known in the west than any other Arab writer on this subject. As long ago as 1592 the text of his book was printed in Rome. His Geography was written in 1154 at the request of the Norman King, Roger II., of Sicily, at whose court he resided. Idrisi was born at Ceuta, but of Spanish-Aral J parents. He travelled much, for he relates that he has seen the English and French coasts, and has lived at Lisbon. His description of Palestine is excellent, and what he says of Jerusalem is particularly interesting, for he wrote of the Holy City as it was during the occupation of the Crusaders. Some authorities state that he visited Asia Minor in the year 11 16, but there is no ground for supposing that he went south of this, or that he had himself visited the Holy Land. His information, therefore, must have been dcnved from the accounts that he obtained at the court of Roger from books, and from those who had returned from their travels in that countr>'. The Arabic text from which the present translations are made is that published in the Transactions of the German I^aiastinti- Verfin, vol. viii., 1S85, by J. Gildemeister. 14. Another Muslim who has left us a description of sites in Pakstiae during Crusading times is 'Ali of Herat, who wrote in Digitized by Google 8 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. 1173 a small work on " The Plam of Pilgrimage,** Its most in- teresting section is that describing Hebron, wherein he gives an account of a visit to the ( avc of Machpelah. *Ali of }ferat, though of Persian ori^^in, wrote in Arabic. The text of his work has not been printed -. Init the F.odieian Library at Oxford possc>^^ s a good MS. of the work {MS. E. D. Clarkii 17, civ., Uri.)^ from which the translations given below have been made. 'AH died at Aleppo, where he bad lived and written his book, in the year 12 15. 15. In 1 185, two years before Saladin re-conquered Jerusalem, the northern part of Palestine was visited by the traveller Ibn Jubair, a Spanish-Arab, bom at Valencia in 1145. Ibn Jubair set out on his travels from Granada in 11 83; he came first to Egypt, went up the Nile, and then across the desert to Aidhab, on the Red Sea, whence he reached Makkah, and subsequently Al Madinah. Thence he crossed Arabia to Kufah and l^aghdad (of which he has left a most interesting account) : and, iravelhng Up the Tigris bank, crossed from Mosul to Alei)po, came down to Damascus, and thence on to Acre, where he took ship, and ulti- mately landed again on Spanish soil, at Carthagena, in 1 185. Un- fortunately for us he did not visit Jerusalem. He made two other voyages to the East subsequent to the one above mentioned, and on his return journey died at Alexandria, in Egypt His descrip- tion of the places he saw is lively and full of detail, although from the ornate style in which he wrote, a literal translation of his Diary would be tiresome reading. His description of Damascus is given in Chapter vi. of the present work, and is the fullest we possess of that city during the Middle Ages. ' ''^ ' The Araljic text of Il)n Jubair s Diary has been published by the late Professor William Wright, Leiden, 1852, and it is to the pa^'es of this work that the references, in the condensed transla- tion given, refer. 16. For the immense extent of his labours, and the great bulk of his writings, YakOt may certainly take first rank among Muslim geographers. By birth a Greek and a slave, he was brought up and received a scientific education at Baghdad, in the house of his master, who was a merchant. The details of his biography would Digitized by Google THE ARAB GEOGRAPHERS, 9 take too long to recount — suffice it to say that, at various periods of his wandering life, he sojourned nt Alej^po, Mosul, Arbela, and Marv; and that he Hed from this latter city (in those days renowned for its numerous libraries) in 1220, on the advent of the armies of Jcnghis Khan. Travelling across Persia and through Mesopotamia, Y4k(kt ultimately reached Syria, and settled down at Aleppo, in which city he died in 1229. His great Geographical I^icon, which describes in alphabetical order every town and place of which the author could obtain any information, was completed in the year 1225* It is a storehouse of geographical information, the value of which it would be impossible to over-estimate ; for the book gives a detailed account, as seen in the thirteenth century, of all the countries and towns in Muslim lands, from Spam, in the West, lo beyond Transoxiana and India, in the East. Some idea of the mass of information, both geographical and historical, therein contained, may perhaps l)e gathered from the stntetncnt that the Arabic text, as printed at the cost of the German (Oriental Society, covers close on 4,000 pages, large 3vo ; and that an English translation, with the ne^ul notes, would occupy from double to treble that space. Y&kOt also wrote a useful dictionary of Geographical Homonyms, being a list of different places that have identical names. -* f The grt^at Geographical Dictionary refeired to above, called Mujatn al BuhtdH'-'^'Thit Alphabetical (Dictionary) of Geography " — is edited by Professor Wiistenfeld in six volumes, Leipsic, 1866. The Dictionary of Homonyms, called /// Mushtarik^ is edited by " • the same Orientalist, and was jiublished at (lottingen in 1846. 17. Threc-( quarters of a century after YakQt had finished his great I )ictionar)', his work was epitomized by a certain Safi ad l>in. He added some few articles of his own, and cut down all the descriptions of places found in Yakdt, giving to each name but a single line of text. The work is entitled MarAsid al IttUd ~ — **The Watch-Tower of Informations." Of the epitomist, Safl ad Din, nothing is known, and even his name is somewhat a matter of doubt; but the year 1300 must have been approximately the date of his work, for he mentions as a recent occurrence the taking of Acre in 1291. The text of the MarAsid has been Digitized by Google lO PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. edited by T. G. J. Juynboll (Leiden, 1859); but since this edition has been brought out, Professor Wiistenfeld has collated a MS. belonging to IxDrd Lindsay, which gives some additions to the printed text. These have been added by Professor Wiistenfeld to vol. V. of his edition of YlkOt at pp. 11-32. . 18. Dimashki, born in 1356 at Damascus (as his name implies), wrote, about the year 130O1 a jejune description of his native land, which, however, affords^ on certain points, many curious details of the state of the country afker the departure of the Crusaders. He was a contemporary of Sultan Bibars, and his work is of value in connection with the Crusading Chronicles. He died at Safed in 1327. The text of Diinashki has been jjrintecl in Petershurp. in 1H66, by M. A. F. Mehren, and it is from this edition that the transla- tions have been made. 19. Abu-1 Fida, some time Prince of Ham^h, and a collateral descendant of the great Saladin, is a geographer of far higher merit than Dimashki. His chapter on Syria and Palestine is, for the most part, not copied from books ; for since he is describing his native country, he writes from [personal observation. The work was completed in 1321. Abu-1 Fid& himself was bom at Damascus in 1273, He lived under the Mamluk Sultans of Kgyi)t — KalaOn, l^jiin, and Malik an Nasir and was named (Governor uf Hamah in 1310, in wiiich city he died in 1331. The .\rabic text of Abu-1 Fida's (Icography was published bv Reinaud and l)e Slane (Paris, 1840), and this is the edition quoted. 20. Ibn Batutah, the r»erl>er, may well take rank with the Venetian, Marco Polo,* for the marvellous extent of his journey* ings. He was bom at Tangiers about the year 1300, and at the age of twenty-five set out on his travels. Of these he has left us a full description, written in the year 1355. His route in the barest outline is all that can here be indicated. Starting from Morocco, he visited in succession Tunis, Tripoli, and Egypt, (ioing up through Palestine and Syria, he accompanied the Hajj • Marco Polo rcturncrl to Venice in 1295, and wrote his travels when in captivity at Genoa about the year 1300. Digitized by Google THE ARAB GEOGRAPHERS. ir to Madinah and Maklcah, went thence on through Mesopotamia to Peisia, and, letuming, spent some months at Baghdad, and subsequendy at Mosul. From Mosul he went again to Makkah, and from there travelled through Yemen, and so hack to Egypt From Egypt he took ship for Asia Minor, and afterwards visited Constantinople, the Crimea, Astrakhan, Kharizim, Tartary, Transoxiatia. Afghanistan, and finally reached India, where he spent a considcrai)lc time at Delhi. From India he .sailed to the Maldive Islands and Ceylon, taking them on his way to China : and on the return journey visited Sumatra. After long voyaging m the Indian Ocean, he again found himself at Makkah, and from that holy city took his way home to Fez, via the Sudan and Timbuctoo. He subsequently visited Spain ; and died at Fez, at an advanced age, in the year 1377. Ibn BatOtah's account of what he saw in Palestine is often curious, and his description of Jerusalem gives a few details not found elsewhere ; but his style is verbose and bombastic, and he too often copies from his predecessor, Ibn Juboir, to be of much value as an original authority. Ibn 6ati!ltah*s text, with a French translation, has been pul)- lished hy C. Defrt?mcry and H. R. SanguincUi, at the cost of the Sodetf Asiatique, in four volumes, Paris, 1879 ; and this is the edition quoted in the present work. 21. AfufMr a! G/iinhn, or, ** The Exciter of Desire " (for Visi tatiun of the Holy City and Syria), is by a native of Jerusalem called Jamal ad Din Ahmad, who wrote a topographical descrip- tion of the Holy City in the year 1351. Excellent MSS. of this work, which has never yet been printed, are preserved in the BiHhtk^tque NatumaU at Paris, and from these the translations given have been made. For a full description of the MSS., and an account of Jam^ ad Dtn's life, I may refer to my paper on SoyAti (who has copied Jamfil ad Dtn), in the Journal of the Royal Asiatic Sodety, vol. xix , new series, p. 250. ^\ 22. The second Mnthir is a work with the same name as the above, hut written by a certain Abu-l Fida Ishak, of Hebron, who died in 1430. He descril)es the Sanctuary of that city, and the Tombs of the Patriarchs. Details of the MSS. from which my Digitized by Google 12 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. translation has been made (for the Arabic text of the work has never been printed) will be found in the paper cited above. 93. Shams ad Dtn SuyOti (not to be confounded with his better-known namesake, who bore the title of Jam&l ad Dtn) visited Jerusalem in 1470, and shortly after wrote a description of the Holy City, entitled IthAf ai Akhissft, "A Gift for Intimates'* (concerning the merits of the Aksd Mosque). In this work he largely plagiarizes from the two Muth'irs iiK-nliuncd above (Nos. 21 and 2 2), ns I have shown in the paper in the J. R. A. S. already mentioned. Quotations from Snyftti give references to the pages of the |. R \ S., vol. xix., new series. 24. Mujir ad Din, the last name on the list, though better known than the three precedini^ topographers, has done little more than reproduce verbatim the descriptions given by the authors of the two Muihin and Suyiiti, , J P J The work of Mujtr ad Din, who wrote his Uns alJalU in 1496, has been translated into French by H. Sauvaire (Hist^re de Jerusalem et ^Hehretty Paris, 1876) ; the Arabic text also has been printed at Bulak (Cairo), a.h. 1283 (1866), and it is to this text that the pages given in the present translations refer. Mujir ad Din, besides what he eo[)ies verbatim from his prede- cessors, gives a full account of the various mosques, colleges, shrines, tombs, and holy i)laces in Jerusalem, and also a descrip- tion of the (juarters and streets of the Holy City as these existed at the close of the fifteenth century. In the present work the purely topographical details of the City given by Mujir ad Din have not been inserted, the translations made from his work being confined to such additional information on the older buildings of the Haram Area and neighbouring sites as seemed of importance in connection with the statements of previous writers. Besides the above authorities 1 have sought to verify dates of historical events by references to the pages of the great Chronicles of Tabari, and of Ibn al Athlr. The text of the former Chronicle is now in course of publication at Leiden, under the editorship of Digitized by Google THE ARAB GEOGRAPHERS, 13 M. J. de Goeje ; and it is to the various volumes of this edition that the quotations here given refer. Ibn al Athir's Chronicle has been edited in Arabic in fourteen volumes, by C. J. '1 ombeig, Leiden, 1867-76. The various publications of the Palestine Exploration Fund (P.E.F.) Survey of Western Palestine, as embodied in the Memoirs (in three volumes), the volume on Jerusalem^ and the Sptaal Papers^ also the numbers of the Quarterly Statement^ will often be found (luotcd in the following pages ; as also the publications of the Palestine I'ilgrims' Text Society (P.P.T.), which describe the Holy I^nd in the days of the Crusaders and the early Christian Pilgrims. The following list gives the initials under which reference is made to the works of the Arab geographers and travellers in the editions named in the foregoing pages : I. a. Kh.) Ibn KhurdaHbih wrote , circa 86 4 250 2. (Bil.) Hiladhurl 255 ( Kud.) Kudikmah . circa 880 266 4* (Vb.) M S " History *' 874 891 260 278 5- (I.F.) Ibn al Fakih . . 903 ago 6. (I.R.) Ibn 'Abd lUbbih . , tirca 913 300 7- (iVUs.) Mas' lid I . ■ . 943 332 8. (Is.) Istakhri 951 340 9 (i.n.) Ibn Ilaukai . . « 9;8 367 la <Mak.) Mttkaddasi . 98s 375 II. (N. Kh.) NasuT'i-Khusmu 1047 438 12. Ibn Bat]&D(inYakikt) 1051 443 13- (Id.) IdiUi . . • « 1154 548 14. (AH.) 'AH of Herat. 1173 569 15- (I.J.) Ibi) juiair . . . 1165 16. (Vnk.) Yakut ... 1225 623 17- (Mar.) The Author of the MarAsid . 1300 700 18. (Dim.) Dimashkl • . cina 1300 700 19. (A.F.) Abu-l Fida . • . 1321 721 20. (I.B.) Ibn lint Utah . 1355 756 21. (Muth. I.) The author of ihe fir>l Mufhir 752 22. (Muth. II.) The author of the second Mutnir 1430 ^33 23- (S.) Shams ad Din SuyM • 1470 875 24. (M.a.D.) Mnjtr ad Dtn . « • 1496 901 Digitized by Google CHAPTER I SYRIA AND PALESTINE. « The name "Ash Sh&m. "—Physical features.— Ciimate.—Prodttct9k— Manners and customs.-<Festival8.~The Watch«stations of the coast. Terriiorial Divisions: The "Junds" or Military Districts. — fund Ftla$ttn.~The Tib, or Desert of the Wanderings.— The Jifar.— Jund al Urdimn. — The Ghaur. —Jund Dimnslik.— The GhQtah of Damascus, the ' Ilauian, and Haihauiyyah, Jaulan, UTidur, and HAIah. — The Balk j.— Ash Sharah. — Al Jibal. — Jund Uiuis. — jund Kini)a!>nn. — jund Awasim. — The Thuchfir.—- The Nine ** Kingdoms" of Syria. TribuU and Taxtsr^Wi^kts and MMntrtu Syria — a name first given by the Greeks to the country lying im- mediately round S&r^ or 1 yre, and which afterwards came to be applied by them to the whole province — was never adopted by the Arabs as a general term for the lands on the eastern border of the ' Mediterranean. The whole of the great and fertile tract of moun- tain-land and plain, generally known to us as Syria and Palestine, extending from the Cilician Passes on the north, to the desert of Egypt on the south, and hounded on the west and east by the sea and the desert of Arabia respectively, the Arabs called Ash Sham^ that being an ancient Arabic word for "left," (or ''north'") when the speaker faced the rising sun. Another, and more fanciful, etymology of this name is also given by Mukaddasi and others : — " It has been said that Syria is called * Sham,' " says Mukaddasi, ** because it lies on the left of the Ka'abah, and also because those who journey thither (from the Hijjaz) bear to the left or mrth ; or else it may be because there are in Syria so many Beauty-spots, such as we call Sh^mdi — red, white and black — (which are the fields and gardens held to resemble the moles on a beauty's face}.*' (Muk., 152.) Digitized by Google I I I I I I « t I ^ Digitized by Google Digitized by C ioogle SYRIA AND PALESTINE. The same author continues : Syria is very pleasantly situated. The country, physically, may be divided into four zones. The first zone is that on the border of the Mediterranean Sea. It is the plain-country, the sandy tracts following one another, and alternating with the culti- vated land. Of towns situated herein are Ar Ramlah, and also all the cities of the sea coast. The second zone is the mountain- countiT, well wooded, and possessing many springs, with frequent \ illagcs, ;md cuUi\ated fields. Of the cities that arc situated in this part are: Bait Jihnl, Jerusalem, Xahulus, Al-l^jjun, Kabul, Kadas, the towns ol the Bika' and Antioch. The third zone is that of the valleys of the (Jordan) (ihaur, wherein are found many villages and streams, also palm-trees, well cultivated fields, and indigo plantations. Among the towns in this part are Wailah, Tabiik, Sughar, Jericho, Baisan, Tiberias, Baniy^s. The fourth zone is that bordering on the Desert The mountains here are high and bleak, and the climate resembles that of the Waste ; but it has many villages, with springs of water and forest trees. Of the towns therein are Ma&b, 'Ammiln, Adhra*ih, Damascus, Hims, Tadmur, and Aleppa" (Muk., i86.) " The climate of Syria is temperate, except in that portion which lies in the centre region of the i)rovin(X\ between Ash Sharah (Mount Seir/ and Al Hulah (the waters of Merom) ; and this is the hot country where grow the indigo-tree, the banana, and the palm. One day when I (Mukaddasi) was staying in Jericho, the physician Ghassan said to me, ' Seest thou this valley (that is, the Jordan Ghaur). * Yes,' I answered. And he continued, * It extends from In nee as far as \hr Hijjdz, and thence through Al YamiUnah to 'Oman and Hajar ; thence passing up by Basrah and Baghdad towards the left (west) of Mosul, it reaches to Ar Raklcah, and it is always a Wddy of heat and of palm-trees.' " ^The coldest place in Syria is Ba'albakk and the country round, for among the sayings of the people it is related how, when men asked of the cold, 'Where shall we find thee?* it was answered, * In the Baikal and when they further said, ' But if we meet thee not there ?' then the cold added, ' \ enly in Ba ailjakk is my home."' Digitized by Google t6 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. "Now Syria is a land of blessing, a country of cheapness, abounding in fruits, and peopled by holy men. The upper pro- vince, which is near the dominions of the Greeks, is rich in streams and crops, and the climate of it is cold. And the lower province is even more excellent, and pleasanter, by reason of the lusciousness of its fruits and in the great number of its palm-trees. But in the whole country of Syria there is no river carr>'ing boats, except only for the ferry." (Muk., 179.) " Unequalled is this land of Syria for its dried figs, its common olive-oil, its white bread, and the Ramlah veils : also ior the quinces, the pine-nuts called ' Kuraish-bite,' the Ainuni and Duri raisins, tlie Theriack-antidote, the herb of mint, and the rosaries of Jerusalem. And further, know that within the {irovince of Palestine ma} be found gathered together six-and thirty products that are not found thus united in any other land. Of these the first seven are found in Palestine alone ; the following seven are very rare in other countries ; and the remaining two-and-twenty, though only found thus gathered together in this province, are, for the most part, found one and another, singly, in other lands. Now the first seven are the pine-nuts, called * Kuraish-bit^' the quince or Cydonian-apple, the 'AinAn! and the DOrt raisins, the K&fiiri plum, the fig called As SabS'i, and the fig of Damascus. The next seven arc the Colocasia ur water lily, the sycamore, the earob or St. John's bread (locust-tree), the lotus-fruit or jujube, the artichoke, the suLjar-cane, and the Syrian apple. And the remaining twenty- two are the fresh dates and olives, the shaddock, the indigo and juniper, the orange, the mandrake, the Nabk fruit, the nut, the almond, the asparagus, the banana, the sumach, the cabbage, the truffle, the lupin, and the early prune, called At Tari ; also snow, buffalo-milk, the honey-comb, the 'Asimt grape, and the Tamri — or date-fig. Further, there is the preserve called Kubbait ; you find, in truth, the like of it in name elsewhere, but of a different fiavour. The lettuce also, which everywhere else, except only at Ahwaz (in Persia), is counted as a common vegetable, is here in Palestine a choice dish. However, at Basrah, too, it is held, .superior to the more common vei^etables." (Muk., 181.) Some few ot these items require explanation: — The iheriack, Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 17 called in Arabic Taryak^ borrows its name from the (jruck <jirt(,fiay.'A; "a drug ULjainst venomous biles." It was generally compounded with treacle and other ingredients of most varied description. " Kiir ii>h-bite," according to our dictionaries, is the fruit of the Pinus pUea and also of the smaller Snobur-pine, StrobilipinL The Sugar-cane was cultivated during the Middle Ages in many parts of Syria and Palestine, especially at Tripoli on the sea-coast (see Part II., Tardduius\ and in the hot Jordan Ghaur. Every- where in this district the traveller at the present day meets with mined mills for crushing the cane, named TawdMn as Sukkdr. '1 he cultivation of the cane was introduced into western countries from Kuzistan in Persia, and, throughout the Middle Ages, Sinister (the ancient Susa) was renowned for this manufacture on a large scale. The art oi >uuar refining was ver}' extensively practised by the Arabs, and under their dominion the growth of the ( anc and the manufacture of sugar spread far and wide, from India eastward to Morocco, and was introduced into Europe through the Muslim conquests in Spain and Sicily. In regard to the Orange, the researches of Gallesio have proved that India was the country from which this fruit spread first to Western Asia, and eventually to Europe. From remote antiquity the orange has been cultivated in Hindustan, and before the close of the ninth century the bitter variety seems to have been well known to the Arabs, who had introduced it into the countries of South-WestL rii Asia. Mas'udi, who wrote in the year 943 (.>32), has the following account of the acclimatization of orange and citron trees : *' The oranu^e trec {Shajar an NdranJ), and the tree bearing the round citron (a/ Utruj al mudaiinuar), have been brought from India since the year 300 A.H, (912 a.d.), and were first planted in 'Omin. Thence they were carried by caravans from Al Basrah into 'Irak and Syria. The trees have now become very numerous in the houses of the people of Tarsus and other of the Syrian frontier towns ; also in Antioch and in all the Syrian coast towns, with those of Palestine and Egypt, where, but a short time ago, they were unknown. The fruit, however, has lost its original perfume 2 Digitized by Google i8 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, and flavour, as also the fine colour it shows in India, and this is because of the change from the peculiar soil and climate and water of its native land." (Mas., ii. 438.) The Mandrake, called in Arabic iMffa/t, is the Fructus atropct Afandragora of botanists. Its root is called Yabri^h by the Arabs, and is poisonous, while its fruit is edible. In his chapter on Egypt, Mukaddasi describes the Nabk as a fruit of the size of the medlar {Zu^r&r), It contains numerous kernels, and is sweet It is the fruit of the Sidr (the tree-k>tus). To the fruit they add (the sweet paste called) Nldah, which is the same as Samanu, only more finely prepared, and then spread it out on reed-matling until it dries and sticks together*' (Muk., 204). '* Samand " is a sweet paste that is well known at the present day all over Persia, and " Nidah " is the sweetmeat for which the town of Menshiyyeii \\\ Egypt is famous. The preserve called Kubbait," also called A«^Ai/and Kubbdd^ is a sweetmeat made with ' carob-sugar, ahnonds, and pistachio nuts. Mukaddasi, continuing his account, gives the following details of the commerce of Syria in the tenth century : The trade of Syria is considerable. "From Palestine come olives, dried figs^ raisins, the carob- fruit, stuffs of mixed silk and cotton, soap and kerchiefs. ** From Jerusalem come cheeses, cotton, the celebrated raisins of the s|3ecies known as 'Ainuni and Duri, excellent a{")ples, i I ii iunas--whicli sanK' is a fruit in the form of a cucumber, but wiien the skin is peeled off, the interior is not unlike the water- melon, only finer llax ourcd and more luscious- -also pine nuts of the kind called ' Ruraish-ljrite,' and their equal is not found else- where ; further, mirrors, lamp-jars, and needles. " From Jericho is brought excellent indigo. From Sughar and Baisan come both indigo and dates, also the treacle called Dibs, ** From 'AmmSn — grain, lambs, and honey. ** From Tiberias— carpet stuifs, paper, and cloth. "From Kadas— clothes of the stuffs called Munayyir and Bttlisiyyah^ also ropes. Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 19 *' From Tyie come sugar, glass beads and glass vessels both cut and blown. From Mafib — ^almond kernels. ** From Baisin — ^rice. **From Damascus come all these: oliveoil fresh-pressed, the BcWhiyyah cloth, brocade, oil of violets of an inferior quality, brass vessels, paper, nuts, dried figs, and raisins. "From Aleppo, cott(jn. clothes, dried figs, dried herbs, and the red-chalk called Al Afni^hrah, " Ha'albakk produces the sweetmeat of dried figs called J/tf/^/t." (Muk., 1 80.) In the above lists some items demand explanation : — The Dibs tEeacle is boiled-down fruit^syrup. It is often made from dates or laisinsy steeped in their own weight of water, boiled up and then allowed to simmer ; the mass being finally set in the sun to dry, when a paste-like residue is left behind. The Paper here mentioned is the r<9/A7//-paper,* known as Charia damascena^ or Bombydna during the Middle Ages, which the Arabs had learnt the art of making after their capture of Samarkand in a.d. 704. Although as early as the tenth century BvinbyciuuHi was used at Rome, this cotton-jiaper did not ( onie into ueneml use throughout Juiroj),- mu( h before the middle of the thirteenth centiury, and ///AfAr-paper was first made m the fourteenth century. The cloth cilled Munayyir was of double woof, and celebrated for its durability, being chiefly manufactured at Shir^ and Ray (Rhages), in Persia, where it was known by the name of DaibM, Of the Bal'Uiyyah no details are given in the dictionaries. The red-chalk called Maghrah is the mineral Rubrua Sinopka^ much used by the druggists of the Middle Ages in the concoction of specifics. It was especially emplo\'ed in the clyster, and as a remedy in cases of liver disease ; for which it is recommended by Dioscorides. * That Charia Bomltyttmi was made Irorn (oilon is ihc peneraliy receivt'il statement, which, however, M. C. M. Briquet has recently conlrovcrlcil. AoGordiog to this last authority, Bomtydua was made from hemp and the reinaittB of old ropes. See his work La Ltgende FaUegraphiqut Papitr de C9t0H, OVBhlt, 1884. 2 — 3 Digitized by Google 20 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, The MaWan sweetmeat is noticed by the Jewish doctor Maimonides, who calls it Malben " (in Hebrew), and describes it as made of figs pressed into the form of small bricks. Treating of the mineral products of Syria, Mukaddasi continues : "There are iron-mines in the mountains above BairOt, and near Aleppo is found the red-chalk called Maghrah. It is here of excellent quality ; at 'Amm&n, where it is also found, it is less good. Throughout Syria there are met with many mountains of a reddish colour, the rocks of which are known as of the Samakah (or red- sandstone), whicli ^.une is easily quarried. Also other mountains of a whitish colour, formed of what is ( alU d HaumMirah (or white- ciiulk) ; this is soil, and they use it tt) whitewash the ceilings, and for the cementing of the terrace-roofs ot the houses. Tn Pales- tine there are quarries of good while liuilding-stone ; and near Bait Jabril, in many places^ marble is found. From the Ghaur districts they bring sulphur, and other such-like minerals ; and from the Dead Sea they get salt in powder. The best honey is that from Jerusalem, where the bee? suck the thyme; and likewise from the Jabal 'Amilah. The finest quality of the sauce called Muri is that which is made at Jericho." (Muk., 184.) The Muri sauce, here mentioned, is a pickle made from certain fish or meat set in salt water. It has medicinal properties, duly noted by (lalen. Dioscorides, and others, and was known to the Romans under the name of Ciarum or xMuria. One Al W.Sv/. calls it "the pearl of condniients." "The water in Syria, " says Mukaddasi, "is for the most part excellent. 1 hat found at Baniyas, however, acts ai)eriently ; and the water of Tyre muses constipation. At Baisan the water is heavy and bad ; while verily we take refuge in Allah from that of Sughar 1 The water of Bait ar Ram is execrable ; but nowhere do you find lighter (better) water than at Jericho. The water of Ar Ramlah is easy of digestion : but that of Nabulus is hard. In Damascus and Jerusalem the water is not so hard, for the climate of these towns is less arid." (Muk., 184.) Of the general manners and customs of Syria Mukaddasi has the following ! *• In ll\e Syrian mosques it is the wont to keep the lamps always Digitized by Google 5YHIA AND PALESTINE, 21 lighted, and they are suspended by chains even as at Makkah. In the chief town of every province, the public treasure is kept in the great mosque, it being placed in a chamber supported upon pilkirs. And in their mosques, except only in the one at Jericho, it is of usage to have doors shutting off tlic Main-building from the Court, which latter is flagged with sione. The court of the great ni(»s(iiK- at I'iberias alone in all this province is paved with pebbles. "The minarets are built square, and they set a pitched roof* (caWed /ama/dn f meaning 'camel-backed') over, the Main-building of the mosques ; also, at all the mosque gates, and in the market- places, are cells for the ablutioa ** Of Christian feasts that are observed also by the Muslims of Syria, for the division of the seasons of the year, are the following : Easter, at the new year (old style; the vernal equinox) ; Whitsuntide, at the time of heat ; Christmas, at the time of cold ; the Feast of St Barbara (4th of KSnfin I., December), in the rainy season — ^and the people have a proverb which says : * When St. Barbara's feast comes round, then the mason may take to his tlute,* meaning tliat he may then sit quiet at home ; the Feast of the KaltMuls (ist of Kanim 11., January) — anfl. again, one of their proverbs is : ' W in n the Kalends come, kee]) warm and stay at home ' ; the Feast of the Cross (13th or 14th of Ilul, September), at the time of grape- gathering ; and the feast of Lydda (or the Feast of St. George, 23rd of Nis^n, April), at the time of sowing the seed. The months in use in Syria are the solar months of the Greeks ; namely, Tishrtn, first and second (October and Novem- ber) ; Kindn, first and second (December and January) ; Shibdt (February) ; Adh&r (March) ; NIsdn (April) ; Ayyar (May) ; Hazairan (June) ; Tamm0z (July) ; Ab (August) ; and Hill (September). " (Muk., 182.) Mukaddasi continues : " It is seldom recorded that any juris- prudist of Syria propounds new doctrines, or tiiai any Muslim here is the writer of aught : except only at Tiberias, \vhere the seril>eh have ever been in reinite. And verily the scribes here in Syria, even as is the case in Egypt, are all Christians, for the Muslims * See Chapter III., Mttkaddasi's description or the Aksi Mosque. Digitized by Google i 22 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, abandon to them entirely this business, and, unlike the men of other nations, do not hold letters a profitable subject of study. In this province of Syria, also, for the most part, the assayers of coin, the dyers, bankers, and tanners, are Jews, while it is uioht usual for the physicians aiul (he scribes to he ('hristians. "The Syrians arc a \vcll-tlrc^M.'d folk. Both learned and simple wear the long cloak called and they do not put on lighter garments in summcr-timc, except it be in the matter of the single- soled shoe. ** The Syrians wear the heavy rain-cloaks, of wool, called Afimtar^ thrown open ; and their 'Tailaslns' have not the hollowed form. In Ar Ramlah the chief shopkeepers are wont to ride Egyptian asses, with fine saddles, and it is only Amirs and chie6 who keep horses. The villagers and the scribes wear the woollen vest called Durrilah. The clothing of the peasantry in the villages round Jerusalem and N&bulus consists of a single shirt, called the Kist^ and they wear no drawers beneath it" (Muk., 182, 183.) The Tailasan here alluded to was the distinctive head-dress of the Kadis, or judges, and the men of learning. It consisted of a veil (also called 2\irhnh), worn above the ordinary turban, allowed to fall hack over the shoulders. It was usually made of white muslin or linen stuff. The word I have rendered by *' hollowed," mukawwar^ may also signify "starched," but it is generally taken to denote the " nick," or cavity, left at the top of the head-dress. The Durra'ah (also called Midra'ak) was a short ^•cst generally woni open in front, but having buttons to fasten it if desired. It .was made of coloured stuffs, and in cloth or other woollen fabric. The Kisd is the long shirt or smock, reaching from the neck almost to the feet ; it was of either white or coloured stuff. The dress of the Fellahfn of Palestine is, down to the present time, exactly what Mukaddasi here describes. In reading the mediaeval writers, those who have travelled in modern Syria will be con- stantly struck by the fart that most of the customs noticed by these authors are still kept uj)at the ])rehent day. The following descrip- tion of the bread-ovens, in particular, applies i)rei isely to what may * now be seen in every Druze village of Mount CarmeL 1 he people of Syria," writes Mukaddasi, " have ovens, and Digitized by Google SYRIA AND Palestine! the villageis especially make use of the kind called TMn, These are small, and used for baking bread, and are dug in the ground. They line them with pebbles, and kindling the fire of dried dung within and above, they afterwards remove the hot ashes and place the loaves of bread to bake upon these pebbles, when they have become thus red-hot. There are also bakers in Syria of the lentil-bread, and of the dish called Baisar (of beans cooked in honey and milk). In this province, too, they boil in olive-oil hcans that have already sprouted, and then fry them, which is a dish sold for eating' with olives. Also they salt the lu|)jn. and use it niut h for food. From the carob-bcan they make a species of sweetmeat, which is called Kubbait ; that made from the sugar-cane is known for distinction as N&tif (that is, sweet meat). During the winter-lime they bake the sugared butter- cakes called ZuiiaAiyyaA; these are of pastry, but in Syria they are not made, as elsewhere, with cross-bars on the top and con- fection of fruit In the greater number of the above customs the Syrians resemble the Egyptians, but in some few they have the ways of the inhabitants of *Irtk and AkOr (that is Lower and Upper Mesopotamia)." (Muk., 183.) "All along the sea-coast of Filastln are the Watch-stations, called Jiibat^ where the levies assemble. The war ships and the galleys of llic (Ireeks also come into these ports, bringing aboard of them the captives taken fronT the Musliin.s ; these they offer for ransom — tliree for the hundred Dinars.* And in each of these ports there are men who know the Greek tongue, for they have missions to the Greeks, and trade with them in divers wares. At the Stations, whenever a Greek vessel appears, they sound the horns ; also, if it be night, they light a beacon there on the tower ; or, if it be day, they make a great smoke. From eveiy Watch-station on the coast up to the capital (Ar Ramlah) there are built, at intervals, high towers, in each of which is stationed a company of men. On the occasion of the arrival of the Greek ships the men, perceiving these, kindle the beacon on the tower nearest to the coast-station, and then on that lying next above 11, atid onwards, one after * That is, aliout ;^i6 for each captive, equivalent, however, in the corrency of the present day, to nsarly ; »ee p. 44. Digitized by Google 24 TALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. another, so that hardly is an hour elapsed before the trumpets are sounding in the capital, and drums are beating in the towers, calling the people down to the Watch-statton by the sea. And they hurry out in forces with their arms, and the young men of the village gather together. Then the ransoming begins. Some will be able to ransom a prisoner, while others (less rich) will throw down silver Uirhams, or si^nci-rings, ur contribute some other valuable, until at length all tlie prisoners who are in the Greek ships have l>een ransomed. Now the Watch-stations of this province of Filastin, where this ransoming of captives takes place, are these : Ghazzah, Mimas, 'Askalan, Mahiiz- (the port of) AzdOd,. Mahikz. (the port oQ Yubn^, Y4fah, and Arsaf." (Muk., 177.) TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS. ^lien, towards the close of the first half of the seventh century of our era, the great wave of Arab conquest swept over Syria, and wrested that province from the Byzantine dominion, the march of the invading hordes came down alonc^ the well-known caravan route, leading from Makkaii and Al Madiiiali lo narnascus, which lay along what is now the return riluriin Road from the Hijja/ to the citie> of Syria. Hen* e the first territories t!iat came under the power of islam were the countries east of thi' Jcirdan and the Dead Sea ; and it was not till Damascus and its territory in the north had been taken, that Galilee, the lowlands of the Jordan Province, and Palestine, were overrun by the Muslims. The subjugation of the provinces north of Damascus, with the great cities of Antioch, Aleppo, and Emessa, followed almost imme- diately on the foregoing, and thus completed the conquest of Syria. The line taken by the Arabs on their inroad explains the political divisions into which the conquered territories came to be parcelled out when the second Khalif, the great administrator 'Omar, ,L itled the guvernuient of the Muslim Mnipire. Syria was divided into provinces, each of which was termed a Jund. The word, according to the lexicons, means, primarily. " a troop of soldiers." In Syria it was applied to the nuluary districts ' in which a special body of troops lay in garrison, and hence in parti- cular the five great military districts into which S>Tia was divided. Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, These five were the following : The Jund of Damascus, and, northwards, the Jund of Hims and the lund of Kinnasrin. West and south-west of the Damascus Jund was the Jordan District, called Jund al Urdunn, coinprisinL'; Galilee, and the Sea of (ialilec, and the lowlands of the Jordan, down to the Dead Sea. West of this again lay Palestine proper, the Jund Filastin, which included all the countries lying to the south of the great plain of Acre and Esdraelon — to the west of the Jordan deft and the Dead Sea. This Jund had the sea for its western boundary, and the Desert of the Wanderings and the road to Egypt closing it on the south. The country lying north of the Damascus Province had, in the first years of the Arab conquest, formed but a single Jund, called, after its chief town, Jund Hims (Emessa). When Mu'awiyah (66 1 — 679), the first Khalif of the house of Omayyah, had suc- ceeded in putting down his rival *Ali (the Prophet's son-in-law), and had detached the peoi)le of Northern Mesopotamia from their allegiance to the latter, he erected the lands where they had -settled into a separate district, calling it Jund Kiniiasrin. This is the account given by Dimashki, a somewhat late authority (1300). The early historian Biladhuri (869) states, on the other hand, that it was the Khalif Yazid, son of Mu'awiyah above mentioned, who instituted the new Jund of Kinnasrin by separat- ing these territories from those of Hims. (Bil., 132 ; copied by Yak., iii. 742.) The new province was called the Jund of Kinnasrin, after its chief town of that name, the ancient Chalds. It comprised the districts round Aleppo, Antioch, and Manbij. Syria, thus divided into five Junds, so remained during all the days of the Damascene Kiialifatc of the ( )nia\ yads. After the fall of tliat dynasty, and the rise of the Abhasides, who made Baghdad their capital, on the ri.ETi^. the northern frontiers (if Syria were considerably extended t)y the conquests of the Khalif Al MansOr and his successors ; and in the reign of HarQn ar Rashid, about the year 1 70 (786), it was found necessary to sub- divide the now overgrown Jund of Kinnasrin. The country, there- fore, towards the Greek frontier, comprising the territories from Antioch westward to the coast, and astward to Aleppo and Manbij, Digitized by Google 26 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. was erected into a new Jund, called Jund al 'Awdsim, the latter word being the plural of 'Asim, signifying a stronghold." "Sotih of this again, and on the actual frontier, was the district called Ath ThughQr — that of the "frontier fortresses.*' These frontier fortresses were often divided into the Thughdr of Syria, to the >vestwar(l. and the Thughur of Mcsupotaiiiia, to the eastward. The district consisted of the long chain of fortresses that guarded the northern frontier of S\ria, huiU there for keeping out the in- cursions of the Greeks. This chain of fortresses ran from Tarsu^^, Adana, and Mopsuestia, on the west, by Malatiyah and Hisn Mansfir, to the line of the upper waters of the Euphrates at Samosata and Balis, on the east {C/. Dim., 19?, 214.) To return, however, to the early division of Syria into five Junds. These corresponded very nearly with the old Roman and Byzantine provinces^ such as the Arabs found in existence at the time of the conquest, and which are described in the Code of Theodosius, a work that dates from the fifth century a.d. Palaistina Prima, with Cassarea for its capital, comprising Judaea and Samaria, became the .-Vral) Jund of l ilastin, with Ramlah for capital. Pnlnestina Seciinda, with ScythopoHs (Beth Shean, Raisan) for its ca[)ital, comprising the two (uihlees and the western jxirt of Peraea, became the Jund of Al Urdunn (the Jordan), with Tiberias for the new capital. Palaestina Tertia, or Salutaris, including Jdumsea and Arabia Petraea, was absorbed partly into the Damascus Jund, and partly was counted in Filasttn. Phoenicia Prima, with Tyre for its capital, and Phoenicia Secunda, or Ad Libanum, became, in the new arrangement (together with many of the outlying lands east of the Jordan) the great Jund of Damascus. Syria Secunda, north of lliiSj with Apanieia for its ca[)ital, was divided by the Arabs l)etvveen the Junds of Ilaniali and Hims. lastly, Syria Prima, with Antioch for its capital, became the Jimd of Halab, or Kinnasrin ; or, more exac tly, that portion of it which was ultimately made into a separate district, under the name of the Jund of the 'Awdsim. Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 27 The Junds, and the two Northern Provinces, are described by the Arali geographers \\\ tlic following terms : "The {provinces of Syria," write Istakhri and Ibn Haukal in the tenth < entury, "are Jund Filastin, and Jund al Urdunn, Jund Dimashk. Jund Hims, and Jund Kinnasrin. Then the 'Awa&im and the I hughur. *' The frontiers of Syria are the following : On the west, the Bahr Rdm (the Greek or Mediterranean Sea) ; on the east, the desert from Ailah to the Euphrates ; and along this river to the frontiers of Rdm (the Greek country). The northern frontier is the country of Rftm, while the southern is the frontier of Egypt, and the Tlh (the Desert of the Wanderings) of the Bani Isr&il. *^The furthest point south of Syria towards Egypt is Rafh. North, towards the country of RCim, the furthest limits are the Fortre>^es ( I hiighiir), which of old times were called the Mcso- potaniian Fortresses. These are Malatyah (Malatia, Mitelene), Al Hadath^ Marash, Al HarQniyyah, Al Kanisah, Win Zarl)ah5 Al Massisah, Adhanah, and I'arsOs. We reckon all these Fortresses as belonging to Syria, speaking generally ; but although some have always been known as the Fortresses of Syria, others are often called the Fortresses of Mesopotamia. In truth, however, they are all Syrian; for whatever lies on this side (or west of) the Euphrates belongs to Syria. However, it is to be noted that those named first, from Malatyah to Mar*ash, are generally called the Mesopotamian Fortresses, because they are always garrisoned by the people of Mesopotamia, who make military incursions thence into the country of the Greeks ; and they are not so called herause they really belong to the province ol Mesopotamia." (Is.. 55 ; 1. H., 108.) Writing in tlu* fourteenth century, after the overthrow of the Frank dommion, Abu-l Fida remarks : *' The limits of Syria in our days include the kingdom of Little Armenia, which is called the Bi! 1 Sis. The northern frontier, therefore, goes from Balis beside the Euphrates, through Kaia'at Najm, Al Btrah, Kala'at ar Rfim, Sumaisat, Hisn Mansikr, Bahasnd, Mar^asb, and thence by the BiUd Sis to Tarsus and the Meditenanean Sea.** (A. F., 326.) Digitized by Google 28 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. I . Jl'SD FiLASTtN (Palestine) and its sub-districts. Subordinate to this district were those of the Tih (the Desert of the Wander- ings of the Children of Israel), and of Al jitar. both lying towards the Eg)ptian I'roiuier. Of the Jund Kilastiii, ihc ancient capital (says Va'kuhi) was Ludd (Lydda). The Khalit Sulaiman sub- sequently founded the city of Ar Kainlah, which he made the capital, and Lydda tell to decay, for its population all removed to Ar Ramlah, the new capital.^ The same author, who wrote in the ninth century of our era, continues: "The population of Palestine consists of Arabs of the tribes of Lakhm, JudhlUn, 'Amilah, Kindah, Kais and Kininah." (Yb., ii6, 117.) ^ Filasttn/' write Istakhri and Ibn Haulcal, " is the westernmost of the provinces of Syria. In its greatest length from Rafh to the boundary of Al l>ajjim (Legio), it would take a rider two days to travel over; and the lik% time to cross the province in its breadth from Vafa (Jaffa) to Riha (Jericho). Zughar (Segor, Zoar) and the country of Lot's people {Diyar Kamn Lut) ; Al Jibal (the mountains of Kdoni), and A>h Sharah as fnr as Ailah — Al Jihal and Ash Sharah hciiiL^lwo separate provinces, but lyinj? mniigutms one to the other — arc included in ilastin, and belong to its govern- ment. " Filastin is watered by the lains and the dew. Its trees and its ploughed lands do not need artificial irrigation ; and it is only in Ndbulus that you find the running waters applied to this pur- pose. Filastin is the most fertile of the Syrian provinces. Its capital and latgest town is Ar Ramlah, but the Holy City (of Jerusalem) comes very near this last in size. In the province of Kilastln, despite its small extent, there are al)Out twenty mosques, with pulpits for the 1 riday prayer." (Is., 56, 57; LH., 11 i-i 13; copied l)y id., 3, 4, and A.F., 226.) Among the towns uf l ila.siin mciuioned as conquered by the Arab (icneral Aim ibn al 'As, at the invasion, are (ihazzah (Ga^ta), Sabastiyah (Samaria), Nabulus (Shechem), Kaisariyyah (Cccsarea), Ludd (Lydda), Vubna, 'Amwas (Emmaus), Vafa (Joppa), Rafh, and Bait Jibrin. At this last he enclosed a domain to which he gave the name of 'AjlOn, after one of his freedmen. (Bil. 138.) * See Chapter VIII., •* Ar Ramlah/' Digitized by GoogL SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 39 *' FilaHtin,'' writes Yakfit, in the thirteenth century, *' is the last of the provinces of Syria towards Egypt. Its c aj)itnl is Jerusalem. Of the principal towns are 'Askalan, Ar Ramlah, (ihazzah, Arsuf, Kaisariyyah, Nabulus. Ariha (Jericho), 'Ammim, Yafah, and Bait Jibrin* Most part of Filastin is mountainous, and but little plain countiy is met with. This Province is referred to in the Kucin (XXI. 71) in the words, ^ And we brought Abraham and Lot in safety to the land which we have blessed for all human beings.' The name is from Filastin, son of Sim, son of Aram, son of SAm (Shem) son of Nflh (Noah), but there are also other genealogies." (Yak. iii., 913 : Mar. ii., 362.) The District of the Td/t belongs to Filastin. Of this Istakhri writes : " At Tih, the i ic^ert of the ( liildren of Israel is said to be forty leagues long and nearly as much across. It is a country full of sand. Part of it is sterile, though here and there are palm- trees growing, and water in springs. Its limits are the Jifar dis- trict on the one side, and Mount Sinai and its district on the other. To the north of the Tth lie the outer limits of the Holy City and other parts of Palestine ; and its southern frontier is in the desert beyond the RIf district of Egypt, lying towards the Red Sea." (Is. 53 ; I.H. 104.) **The Tih, or Desert of the Children of Israel," says Mukad- dasi, is a place on the situation of which there is some discussion. The most reluiblc account i.s tliat it is the desert country, Ivine lx.twcen SvTi.i and Et^ypt, which same is forty leagues across in every direction : e\erywhere are sand tracts, salt marshes, and red sandstone hills, while occasionally j) ilin trees and springs of water may he met with. The limits of this district are, on the one hand, the district of Al Jifar, and on the other Mount Sinai; to the west the desert limit is conterminous with the Egyptian pro- vince of Ar Rif ; and on the other side the Tth goes up to Syria. Through it lies the pilgrim road to Makkah." (Muk. 179 } "At Tih," according to Idrisi, **is the land lying between the Red Sea and the Syrian Sea. It extends for a space of some seven marches, and is called FaAs at Tth (The Region of the ^Vander- ings), for it was here thai the children of Israel wandered in the Digitized by Google y> PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, time of Moses — peace be upon him i They wandered here during forty years without entering any city, or sojourning in any house, and no man had change of raiment, neither did any experience growth in stature. The length of this region of the Tth is about six days' journey.** (Id. i and 21.) Ydkfit epitomises the above, and adds nothing new. (Yak. i, 912 ; Mar. i.» 123.) '*0f the desert districts of the Tth of the children of Israel,*' writes Dimashki, "are the Israelitish towns, namely, Kadas (Kadesh Barnca), Huwaimk, Al Khalasah (Elusa), Al Khalus (Lyssa), As Saba' (Beersluha), and Al Maduraii —all these belonging to the Tih." (Dim. 213.) The Distri( I of A/ Jiji'ir, often counted as belonging to Filasdn, is thus described by Istakhri : "The district called Al Jifar (the Wells or Wateqiits) is the tract of country extending from the borders of the Lake of Tinnts (in Egypt) to the frontiers of Filastin. It is a country of continuous fine and coloured sand, dotted about with palm-trees and habita- tions, with water here and there. The frontiers of the Jifar are tlie Mediterranean, the Desert of the Tih, Palestine, and the Sea of Tinnls, with the adjoining lands going from Rtf of Egypt to the border of Kulzum (the Red Sea). There are found in this dis- trict serpents a span long, who spring up from the sand into the camel-litters and bite the riders. The Egyptians say in their histories that in the days of I'naraoh the Jifar was built over everywhere with towns." (Is., 52; I. H., 103; copied by Yak. ii., 90 ; Mar. i., 258.) 2. JuNi) AL Urdunn (the Jordan Province). Subordinate to this is the District of the G/uiur, or cleft of the Jordan River, and the country of tlu- Dead Sea. Of the Jordan Province the capital is Tabariyyah, Tilierias. Ibn al Fakih writes: '*Of its districts (Kurah) are Tabariyyah, As Samirah (Samaria), which is Nabulus, Baisdn, Fahl (Pella) Jarash, *Akka (Acre), Al Kadas (Kadesh Naphthali), and Sur (Tyre).** (1. F., 116 ; copied by Id., 31 ; and others.) The Ghaur (the cleft of the Ix>wer Jordan). According to Ya'kfibi this is : " An outlying district of the Damascus Province. Its capital is Riha (Jericho)." (Vb., 113.^ Digitized by GoogL SYRIA AND PALESTINE, " The Ghaur," says Istakhri-Ibn-Haukal, *' is the country of Lot's people, and of the Stinking Lake (Dead Sea). All the rest of Filastin is higher than this part, and its waters flow down into it The Ghaur begins at the Lake of Tiberias, and going by Baisdn extends past Zughar and Rthi down to the Dead Sea. The word Ghaur means 'a deft between mountains,' cutting down into the earth. There are all along its course palm-^trees, meadows, springs and streams. No snow that falls ever lies here. The (ihaur, as far south as Baisan, Ijelongs to tlic Urdunn province, but below this it belongs to Filastin. This same deep valley extends still further south, and at length reaches Ailah." (Is., 56, 58 ; I. H., XII, 113; copied by A F., 226.) Idrisi \^Tites : " Al Ghaur includes the Diyar Kaum L(it (the country of Lot's people) and the Stinking Sea, being all the land from Zughar up to Baisdn and Tabariyyah. The Ghaur (cleft) is so called because it is a valley between two ranges of hills. All the waters of Syria descend into it, and are collected there, forming one mighty stream (the Jordan), whose origin is in the Lake of Tiberias, near the city of Tabariyyah. "The other rivers of Syria flow into the Jordan, such as the Nahr al Vannuk (Hieromax), the streams of Baisan, and those which tluw from the district of Maab, and the mountains of the Holy City, and the mountains of Abraham's Sepulchre (Hebron) — peace be on him — as also what waters come down from Nahulus. All these are coiiected together into the Ghaur, and flow thence into the I^ke of Zughar, the Dead Sea. ** Ariha (Jericho), with 'Amta and Baisan are the finest of the cities of the valley of the Ghaur. The principal crop of the Ghaur is indiga Its inhabitants are brown-skinned, and some of them even are almost black." (Id, 3.) ''There are many Ghaurs," says Yik^t, ''for Ghaur means ' crevasse.' The Ghaur of the Jordan lies between Jerusalem and Damascus. It is three days' journey in length, and less than half a day across. In it runs the Jordan. The Lake of Tabariy)ali lies at it> upper etui, the Dead Sea al its lower. Its prineipal town IS Baisan, which is on its edge. It is a low-lying and very Digitized by Google J2 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, hot country. What they grow most here is sugar-cane.* Of its towns is Ariha (Jericho), the city of the giants. At the western (or soulhcrn) end of the Ghaiir, is the Stinkiiii; Sea, and at its eastern (or northern) end is the Sea of Tiberias." (Yak., iii., 823 ^ Mar. ii., 322.) " 1' o the Jorchm province," says Yakut, "belong the kurahs of Tabarjyvah, Ikiisaii, Bait Kas, Jadar, Saffuriyyah (Sepphoris), Sur (Tyre), Akkah. and others. Baisan, Afik, Jarash, Bait Ras, M Jaulan, ^Akkah. Silr, and Saffijriyyah, were all taken during the first conquest of the Arab armies." (Yak., i, 201.) 3. JUND DiMASHK. Subordinate to the Damascus Province were the districts of the great plain of the GhOtah (or Ghautah) round the city, aqd most of the districts to the south, which lay east of the Jordan Cleft and the Dead Sea. "Of the Damascus Province," writes Ya'kfibl, "are (the eastern lands of) the Cliuiui, liic ilaui an, and tlie Bathaniyyah. The outlying di5tri( ts are the Balka, (the southern portion of) the Ghaur, and Al Jibal. ' (Yb , 113.) Ibn al Fakih states that : 'Of the Kurahs of the Damascus Province are Ikltin Sanir, Kurah Jubail, the districts of Bairut, Saida, Bathaniyyah, Hauran, Jaul&n ; also the outlyinj: parts of the Balk^ and the various dis- tricts of the Ghaur. Further, K(irah Maib, and JibM ash Sharah, Busra, 'Amman, Al Jabiyah, and Al Kariyatain. Also the dis- tricts of Al HOlah and Al Bik4*. The coast towns of Damascus are Saidi (Sidon), BairOt, Atrabulus (Tripoli), 'Arkah, and S(lr (Tyre). Of the last, Tyre, the mosque belongs to Damascus, but the Kharaj (or land tax) to the Jordan province." (I. F., 105, writing in the year 903.) "Eastwards of the Urdunn Prf)viii(e (says Idrisi) lies the Damascus j)rovince. Of its Kijrahs arc, ilic i-kiin oi the Ghautah round I>arnaseus, the land of Ba'albakk, Al 15ika' (Ccelo Syria), Iklim Lubnan (the Lebanon), Kurah Juniyyah, and the Hiilah, the districts of Atrabulus. Jubnil, Bairut, Saidaj the Batlianiyyah district, the Haiiran, the Jauldn, the outlying country of Al Balk^ KCirah Jibrin of the Ghaur, the districts of Maab, * This was in the thirteenth century. Digitized by Googk SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 33 'Aminaii, and Ash Sharah, with the land round Bu&ra and Al Jabiyyah. " Eastward of the Damascus Province lies the (Syrian) desert, and south of it is the Ard as Sara&wah (the Great Desert of Arabia^ and the Ard 'Ad (the country of the ancient 'Adites). To the north lie the 'AwHsim and Kinnasrin Provinces." (Id, ai ; repeated from I. Kh., 72.) X^'^i'^' tAl GMtah (or Al Gkautah), the Garden Land,** is the distract ' irnmediately surrounding the city of Damascus. In Ya*kftbrs time, at the close of the ninth century, it was still peopled by various tril)L's of the .iik ient Ghassanide race, whose kings had ruled in these countries hciorc the Arab conjJU^Q«>t. (Yb., 113.) r*' 'I'hc GhQtah, ' s;iys Mukaddasi.'^^^s a day's journey (or about thirty miles across each way), and beautiful beyond all description.'') <Muk., 160.) ^li-^^"' ' The Plain of the GhGtah," according to V^kfit, writing in the thirteenth century, is eighteen miles round, and is surrounded on all sides by high mountains, more especially to the north. It is watered by many rivers which irrigate its fields and gardens. The overflow of these goes into a lake (to the east of Damascus) and into the swamps. Water is found everywhere, and no place is pleasanter. It is one of the four paradises of the earth. (N'ak., iii. 825 ; Mar., ii. 324.) liauran (Auranitis) and Al Bathaniyyah (Bathanea), Ya'kilbi, in 891, states : *''rhe }f:iuran district has for its cnjiital Hiisrn." (Vb., 113.) Istakhri and Ibn Haukal in the tenth century write : " The Hauriin and Al Bathaniyyah are two great districts of the Damascus Province. Their fields are rain^watered. The frontiers of these two districts extend down to Nimrin, which is on the Balki district, and 'Ammin. Of this we have it noted in the boolcs of history that Nimrft is of the best of the waters of the Tank called the Haud, which last lay between Busri and Ammdn.'' (Is., 65 ; I.H., 124.) There is here doubtless an allusion— derived possibly from a Jewish source — to the " waters of Nimrim " of Isaiah xv. 6, and to the " Nimrah ' of N umbers xx.\ii. 3. I'he Ilaudy or " Tank," is that 3 Digitized by Google 34 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. mentioned in a Tradition of the Prophet as having existed of old in these parts. Its waters, it is said, were whiter than milk and sweeter than honey. The name Nimrin, it should be noted, is of friequent occurrence in the Trans-Jordan district. < •^he Hauidn is mentioned by YSkikt (thirteenth century) as a lai^ district full of villages and very fertile, lying south of Damascus^ (Yak., ii. 358 ; Mar., i. 328.) Fruni the Hauran and Bathaniyyah into Damascus is two days* march.^ (Is., I.H.. Vak., Muk.) «*Of Al Bathaniyyah. the capital is Adra'ah." (Yb., 113.) "Al Bathaniyyah/' says Yakut, '*or Al Bathanah, is a (l)-trirt near Damascus. Al Batlianah is said to he a \'illage lying be- tween Damascus and Adra'ah, from which Job came." (Vak., i. 493 ; Mar., i. 126). Aljauldn (Gaulonitis). Ya'kftbi, in 891, writes: '*Of Al Jauian, the capital is Bdniy^" (Yh., 114.) V*The Jaulftn district," writes Mukaddasi, supplies Damascus with the most part of its provisions. " (Muk., 1 60. )) " " ' ' '> "Al Jaul&n,** says Y^kilt, *Ms a district in the Hawin, and of the Damascus Province. Al Jaul&n is also said to be the name of a mountain called more exactly Harith al Jauldn ; others say Harith is the name for the summit of the mountain only." (Yak., ii. 159 ; Mar., i. 273.) Al Jaidur (Itursea). YakOt, in the thirteenth century, states : " Al Jaidur is a district belonging to the Dama.scus Province, and lying to the north of the Hauran. It is said the Jaidur and the Jaulan form but one KOrah (or district)." (Yak., ii. 173 ; Mar., L 977.) AlH^ah, Mukaddasi writes : :^ ("The province of the Hdlah (round the waters of Meron) pro- duces much cotton and rice ; it is low-1) ing, and has numerous streams.^' ) (Muk., 160.) "Al H'iilah,** says Yakut, "is a district lying between Baniyas and Sur ('I'y'''^)' '^"^ belonging to ljaiiiai>eus. It has many villac:es." (Yak., ii. 366 : Mar., i. 330.) Al Balkd (Beraea). According to Va'kAbi : Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. . 35 " Al Balkd is one of the outlying districts of the Damascus Province. Its capital is 'Amman." j (Yh., 113.) (it is mentioned by YakAt.ai nossessing many villages, and is noted for its wheat-crops.'" (Vak.j C 728; Mar., i. t7t.) From the Balka into Jerusalem is two days' march;} (Is., I.H., Id.) AshSharU, Yalcftbt says : /^'Of the district of Ash Shar^h (the mountains of Moab) the ^pital U Adhruh." (Yb.. ii4.H.'7/' ^ (^'^This district," says Istakhri in the tenth century, is extremely fertile and rich, only the Bedawiijj Arabs ^ have the upi>er hand here, and so ruin all. ' (Is., 57^ ; LhT? I'^i^.; ^'Ash Sharah," writes Idrisi, "is a hnc province, whose capital is Adhruh. Both the Sharah and Ti^>al di.smrts are extremely fertile, producing quantities of olive-trees, :uid ahnonds, figs, grapes, and pomegranates, i'he inhabitants are mostly of the Kaisite tribes."^ (Id., 5.) Ash Sharah, according to VakQt, is the mountainous country through which the Hajj road from Damascus .passes. (Yak., iii. ayo ; Mar., il 100.) ' From Jabal ash Sharlh to Zughar is one day*s march. (Is., I.H.) Down to the limit of Ash Shardh is also one day's march (Is., I.H.), while to Zughar, and thence to the further limit of the Jabal ash Sharah, is two days' march, according to Idrisi. It will be noted that the district of Ash Sharah is sometimes also counted as formuig part of the Filastin Province. (See above, p. 28.) Ai Jibai (Gebalene). According to Ya'kubt : — "Al Jibal is one of the outlying districts of the Damascus Frovince. Its capital is 'ArandaL" (Yb., 114.) Jibal," says Idrisi, " is a fine province, the capital of which is called Darab." (Id, 5.) The reading of this last name is uncertain ; in the MSS. of Istakhri and Ibn Haukal the name is variously given as Ruw&t^ Jtuw&ihy and Auw&d, (Is., 57 ; I. H., 113.) 4. JUND Hius (the Emessa Province). Mukaddasi writes : ^Its capita] bears the same name. Among its cittes are Salanuyyah, I'admur (Palmyra), Al Khunasirah, Kafar Tab, Al 3—2 1 Digitized by Google 36 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. L&dhikiyyah (Laodicea)» Jabalah (Byblos), AntarsOs (Toitosa), Bulunyds and Hisn al KhawSbi." (Muk., 154^ Given in much the same words by I.H ,110.) The Hims Jund, as before noted (p. 25), originally comprised all the country to the north of Damascus, which afterwards was subdivided among the Junds of Kimiasrin and Awasim, and the Thughur, or l-'ronticr Fortresses. The southern boundary line of the Hims Province, according toYAkOt, lay immediately to the south of Kc^rah, while its northern limit lay beyond the village of Al Karashiyyah. Eastward the Hims Province included the village Al Kariyatain and Palmyra (see Part II., under these, names). 5. JuND KiNNASRtN. The Kinnasrfn Jund, after Harun ar Rashtd's time, when the 'Awtsim had been formed into a separate province, was circumscribed to the country round Kinnasrln and Aleppo, with the two Ma'arrahs, and the Sarmin territory. -6. JUND AL 'AwAsiM (or of the Strongholds). Ibn al Fakih writes: ' ' "In the days of the Khalifs *Omar and 'Othnian the Muslim frontier fortresses lay round Antakiyyah (Anlioch), and the districts which later Ar Rashid formed into the Jiind of the 'Awfisim. Those arc KQrah Kurus, Al Jiimah, Manhij, Antakiyyah Tu/.in, Balis, and Rusalah-Hisham. \\ hat lands lay beyond, the Muslims made their raids into, and these the Greeks raided like- wise. Between Al Iskandariyyah and Tarsus were fortresses and magazines l>elonging to the Greeks.'' (I. F., iii.) ^ " The Khalif ar Rashtd made Manbij the capital of the 'Awdsim Jund ; jvhich further comprised the districts of Manbij, DulCik, Ralite, KQrus, Ant&kiyyah ^and Tfzin (or Tilzfn), with the inter- vening places." , (Bil., 132 ; Yak., iii. 742.) Ahu-1 Ftdfi (1321), a late authority, mentions Ant&kiyyah as the capital of the 'Awasim, and says the province originally included the districts of Shai/ar, Afaniiyyah and adjacent territories : also the Lebanon region as far as the region of Al Kastal, lying between Hims and Damascus. (A. F,, 233.) Yakut, writing a century earlier, after quoting Bilddhuri (as above), adds, the 'Awdsim were all the Strongholds lying between Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 37 HaUb and AntHkiyyah. Some counted Aleppo as included among these, while others gave it the Kinnasrin Jund The 'Awdstm territory is for the most part mountainous, and both A1 Masstssah and Tarsus have often been iiK ltidcd in ihis province. (Manbij was its early capital, and afterwards Antakiyyah.y (Vak., iii. 742 ; Mar., ii. 287.) ^ ' ^'i- ' 7. A i H THUciHL k <or the Frontier Fortresses ). *' These, ' writes Yakut, *' he along the northern frontier between Syria and the Greek country. It was here the Mushms lived in garrison, who volunteered for the guarding of the frontiers ; as likewise some lay encamped on the coast to protect the land from the incursions of the Greeks in their ships. Such * fortresses ' are Tarsus, Adhanah (Adana), and Al Massissah (Mopsuestia), also those in the Halab and the 'Awdsim territories. This district of the ThughOr has no capital, all the towns are of about equal size, and each is the chief town of its own district Of the ThughOr are the following : Bayyas, whence to Al Iskandariyyah is one march ; and froni liayyas lu Al Massissah is two marches. 'Ain Zarbah and Adhanah both lie one march from Al Massissah. From Adhanah to l arsu.s is one day ; I'arsus to Al Jau/iit is two days ; Tarsus to Aulas on the sea is two days ; Bayyas to Al Knnisah as Sauda is less than one day ; and Bayyas to Al ii ariitnyyah is the same; Al HarClniyyah to Mar'ash, a fortress of the Mosopotamian district, is less than a d^y. .\ntakiyyah and Baghras are celebrated towns of the Thugh(kr^ In the days of the Khalif 'Omar, and for some time afterwards, the frontier fortresses lay north of Anttoch and its towns, and this district came afterwards to be called the 'Aw^im. Between Iskandariyyah and Tarsus were many fortresses belonging to the Greeks, Jiimilar to those which at the present day belong to the Muslims. /The Muslims in those early days blocked the Darb (Pass of) Haghras. This was first accomplishcil by Mai:iarah ibn Masruk, of the family of 'Abbas, who was despatched by Abu TJbaidah {m the days of the early roiKjuesi), as some say; others say this blocking of the pass was done i)y 'Umair ibn Sa'ad al Ansari : others, that it was only completed when the Khalif Mu awiyah raided against 'Ammfiriyyah (Armoricum) in the year Digitized by Google 38 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. ^ 1 he Khalif Mu'awiyah raided ag!un in the year 31 also, setting out from near Al Massissoh and penetrating as far as Darawaliyah. On his return he destroyed all the fortresses belonging to the Cireeks between this place and AntSkiyyah. After the first con- quest TarsOs, Adhanah, and Al Massfssah, with the other for- tresses adjoining, did not cease to remain in Muslim hands till they fell to the Greeks, after the battle of Magharat al Kuhl, in the year 349 (960), u licn the Greek armies defeated Saif ad Daulah and drove iiim back on Hahb. I'hen in 351 the Greeks eaine down against Halab also, and Saif ad Daulah, with the otiier Turk Amirs in Syria, lost ail power, and retired to Miyafarikin at rc^ss the Euphrates. Al Massissah and Tarsus were then refortified by the (xieeks, as also all the other frontier fortresses in their hands. This was in the year 354 (965), and TarsOs, with the rest, remain in their hands to the present day (thirteenth century), and are governed by Leo the King of the Armenians/' (Yak, i. 927 ; • Mar., 1 228) '-'1/'-'* "TheThughOr," says Dimashki, **are divided into two sections : the ThughOr of Syria and the ThughOr of Mesopotamia. These are divided each from the other by the Jabal al Lukkto. "The MesojKJtamian fortresses are Malatiyyah — which the Circcks call Maltaya, and it lies a mile from the Euphrates ; Kamakh, to the west of the Euphrates ; Shamshat, also west of the Euphrates ; Al Birah, east of the Euphrates ; Hisn Mansur : Kala'at ar Rum, west of the Euphrates ; Hadath al Hamra ; Mar'ash, first built by Khaiid ibn al VValid, rebuilt by the Khalif Marwiin ibn al Hakim, and afterwards again by the Khalif al MansOr. •*The Syrian fortresses are Tarsiis, Adhanah, Al Massissah, and Hib^iyyah, built by HiriUi ar Rashfd, in the early days of bis lather's Khalifate. Also Sts, called Stsah ; when the Armenians took it they made it the capital of their kingdom (of Little Arme- nia) ; A3ris, called also Ayagh — this last is the port of Sts on the sea." (Dim., 214.) Such were the jimds, or military districts, of Syria, down to the tenth century of our era. Already, however, and apparently even before that epoch, the system, being no longer required for Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 39 the cantonment of troops, had begun to UlW into disorganiza> tion. MukailJasi in 985 describes Syria as divided into six districts, which differ in some minor points from the original Juncls. The differenc e, however, is more apparent than real. Further, some ol the names m Mukaddasi's lists would appear to have been trans- posed by the copyists. Mukaddasi's six distri( ts are : I. TAe District of Kinnasnn.^lx.^ capital is Halab (Aleppo), and among its cities are Antilkiyyah (Antioch), Balis, As-Suwai- diyyah, Sumais&t(Sainasata)^ Manbij, Bayyds, At-Tinih, Kinnasiln, Mai'ash, Iskandaranah, *I^jj(ln, *Rafiu!liyyfl^^ *J(isiyah,*Hamih, *Shaizar, *Wadl-Butndiit Ma'anah^m-Nu'm&n, Ma'anah-Kinnas- rin. ^ a. 7^ DUiritt of Hims {Emefa).—\v& capital bears the same name. Among its cities are : Salamiyyah, I'admur (Palmyra), Ai Rliunasirah, KaJar-Tab, Al-Ladhikiyyah, Jabalah, AntarsQs, Hukinyas, Hisn al Khawal)i. 3. The District of Dimashk {Damastus). — Its capital is of tlic same name. Among its cities are : Baniyas, D&rayya, Saida (Sidun), Bairut, Atrahiilus (Tripoli), 'Arkah, and the district of the Bika', of which the chief city is Ba'albakk, and to which appertain the towns of Kkaddt 'AijamOsh, and A^-Zabad&nt. **The province of Damascus includes six districts, namely, the GhOtah, Hauriln, the Batfaanlyyah, the JauUn, die Bik&', and the miah. "4- ^ Vistria of AUUrdmm {the /ardaM).—lts capital is Tabariyyah (Tiberias). Among its towns are : Kadas, Sflr ( l yre), 'Akka (Acre), AJ-laradhiyyali, Al-I>ajjun, KabQl, Baisan, and Adiiri ah. " 5. T/i€ District of Filas(\n {Paitstinc). — Its ( apital is Ar- KamlaJi. Among its cities are: Bait-al-Makdis (Jerusalem), Bail JibriK Ghazzah ((iaza), Maimas, Askalan (Ascalon), Yafah (Joppa), Arsdf, Kaisariyyah (Oesarea), N^bulus (Shechem), Ariha (Jericho), and 'Amman. 6. The District cf Ask-Shar&k^ and for its capital we should put Sughar. Its chief towns are ; Mdab, 'AinOnI; Mu*^, TaMUt, Adhiuh, Wat1ah» and Madyan.** (Muk., 156.) Digitized by Google 40 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEhfS, In the Kinnasrin district the names marked with an asterisk (*) are in another list given by Mukaddasi (Muk., 54) assigned to the Hims Province. Even thus, however, the lists are a good deal in confusion, as may be seen by a reference to the map ; for while Rafaniyyah, and Jflsiyah may very rightly be assigned to the Hims district, Al Khunilsirah, and Kafar TUb, given to Hims in the second (*) list, in reality lie for to the north of the boundary line. Mukaddiisi further places Adiiriah, generally notetl as the capital of the Bathaniyvah district (a dependency of the Damasru-' Province), among the towns of the Urdunn IVovinco. Ihc boundary line between the Damascus and Jordan Provinces appears to have been somewhat ill-defined, and the lands lying immediately to the east of the Jordan Cleft were at times counted as of the one province and at times of the other. This system of military Junds received its final death-blow in the twelfth century, on the coming of the Crusaders and the in- stitution of the Latin kingdom of Jerusalem with the baronies and counties dependent thereon. After Saladin and his successors had expelled the Christians, and re-established the Muslim do- minion, Syria and Palestine nominally belonged to the ruler of Kgypt, but in point of fact was divided up among a numiHT of minor Sultans, the descendants of Saladin and his i)roihcrs. Dimashki, writing in 1300, states that since the rise of the Purk power (meaning the house of Saladin), Syria had been divided into nine Kingdoms {Mamlakat), The exact hmits of each are not easy to define, for the accidents of war and of dis- puted succession among Saladin's descendants rendered these " Kingdoms " far from stable. The list of the nine kingdoms, however, is as follows, as given by Dimashki : [. The Kingdom of Damascus^ the largest in point of size and the most influential, since Damascus was still the capital of Syria. " It includes," says Dimashki, ninety districts (Iklim)." Many of them he enumerates, h will he sutticient, however, to state that in the Damascus kingdom were included the lands of the Cihautah Plain m ail. its length and breadth ; the i^banon moun- Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 41 tains, with the plain of Coelo-Syria and Ba'albakk; the WadI Barada, and northward alouL; the Hims Road the country as far as Kara ; the districts ot I^ja ( Trachonitis), Jaulan, Hauran and Hatiiamyyah : and the Halka. Further, to Damascus at one time hvlongcd Jerusalem, and Ar Ramlah with its territories, also Nalmlus, the whole of the (lhaur of the Jordan, upper, middle, and lower: Hebron ; with all the coast towns, such as 'Askalnn, Kaisanyyah, Yafa, Akka, Saida, Sflr, and BairQt. (Dim., j q.S 202.) 2. South of this lay //if Kingdom of Ghnzzah (Gaza), the capital of which was anciently called Ghazzah Hdshim. " It is a city so rich in trees as to be like a doth of brocade spread out on the sand. To the Ghazzah Kingdom at times were counted 'Askalan, which belonged to the Franks, and which the Muslims took and destroyed; Ydla (Jaffa), Kaisariyyah, ArsOf, Ad DdrOn, and Al 'Arish,* "Of towns lying between the coast and the mountains belonging at limes to (ihazzah are: Tall Himar, Tall as Safiyah, Karatayyii, Bait Jibrail, Madinah Khali! (Hebron), Bait al Mukaddas (Jeru- salem). Each of these has a separate governor." (Dim., 213.) 3. The Kingdom oj Kanik. "Here are Karak and Shaubak. To it belong Ma'an, the village of Mfltah, Al I^jjun. Al Hisa, Al Azrak, As Salt, Wad! MCisa, the territory of Madyan, Kulzum, Ar Rayyan ; also in the Ghaur, Az Zarka and Al Azrak : Al Jifar, At Tih (the Desert of the Wanderings), with 'Ammin, of which only the ruins remain ; and the territory of Al BalkIL The Ikllm Al JibAl is also included in the Karak kingdom ; its chief town is Ash Shaiih, and the city of K4b, which lies twelve miles from it.** (Dim., 213.) 4. The Kingdom of Sa fad. " Its capital is Safad. To it belong Marj 'AyyOn (Ijon), Al I«ij|i*in (Le^io, Megiddo), to which belongs Al Ashir and Al Hawa, Jinin ((iin^iea), with 'Akka, Sur (Tyre) and Saul.! /Sid'in)." (Dim., 210-212.) 5. T^u Kingdom of Tarabulus, where are the castles of the sect of the Assassins. 6. The Kingdom of Hims, anciently the Hims Jund. " Hims is the capital, and the seat of government It is the smallest of the Turkish Governments of Syria ; but of its dependencies are Digitized by Google 42 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Shamsin, Shumaimts, and the city of Salamiyyah with four districts.'* (Dim., 202.) 7. Tke Kingdom 0/ ffamdk, Ham^ is the capital ; and of its districts are : Bdrin, a strong fortress ; also Salamiyyah on the border of the desert (or else this belongs to Hims)." (Dim., 206.) 8. The Kingdom of Halab (Aleppo). **Ha1ab is the capital. Besides the 'Awasim district, Halab possesses the following : Al Klum.jMr ill, on the burdur of the desert ; and Jahal liani-1 Ka'kO, which u^Ltl to be called Kasrdin ath ThSniyah ; and Kinnasrin, which was the ancient capital prior to Halab. This last is an ancient Roman city, and its !iamc of old was Suma. " Among other places are Manbij, on the Euphrates, built by one of the Chosroes, and called Manbih, meaning * most excellent.' In its dependc iu Ics is Kala'ah Najm, called also Jisr Manbij. Tall fi^ir, by which runs the river As S&jOr, down from 'Ain l^b. Kala'ah ar RQm, where the KhaUfah of Armenia and the Patriarch dwell. Also Yaghrd, situated on a fresh-water lake formed by the Nahr al 'Aswad, and lying between the lake and Baghrds and Ant^iyyah. Hlb^niyyah, built by HftrAn ar Rashtd, and many other places. In all, there are sixty districts belonging to Aleppo, each with gardens and lands adjoining.'* (Dim., 202-206.) 9. The Kingdom of Rum. " North of the Kingdom of Aleppo lies the kingdom governed by the Tartars, the Armenians, and the Cirecks. This in reality is separatt; ixom Syria, and is called the Kingdom of K(im." (Dim., 192.), \ -1 The author of the J/i/M/r, writing in tKe year 135 1, gives the following as the political divisions of S>Tia at his date. He has been copied verbatim by SuyClti, and other later writers : <*The first town of Syria is Balis, and Ae bst Al Aitsh, of Egypt. Syria is divided into five districts, namely : — *' I. Filasttn, whose capital is tlay& {XXw, Jerosalem), eighteen miles from Ar-Ramlab, which is the Holy City, the metropolis of David and Solomon. Of its towns are Ascalon, Hebron, Sibastiyah, and Ndbulus. "2. Hauran, whose capital is Tiberias, with its lake, whereof mention occurs in the traditions anent Gog and Magog. It is Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 45 said that at the time of the birth of the Prophet — to whom Allah give blessing and peace !— the lake overflowed. Of its territories are those of the Ghaur, of the YarmOk (Hieromax), and of Bais&n (Bethshean, Scythopolis), which is the town of whose palm-trees the Anlichri.^i {.-itf Dajjal) will in(}uire. Also Al Urdunn (the Jordan), more often called Ash Shari ah. 3. The Ghutah. Its capital is Daiua^icus ; Tripoli is on its coast. *'4. Hims (Emessa). The name of the province, and of its chief town. Of its dependencies is the city of Salamaniyah (Salami nias). 5. Kinnasrfn. Its chief town is Aleppo^ and .of its depen- dencies are Sarmtn and Antioch." (Muth. I.» in vol. xix. of In the beginning of the fifteenth century the possession of Syria was wrested from the MamlOk Sultans of Egypt by the Ottoman Turks of Constantinople. I'he Mamlfiks were defeated in a great l>attlc, l)y Sultan Selim, \\\ ilic plains to the north of Aleppo (1518), and Syria became a province of the Turkish Empire. The Rti^cmim of Syria, — Several statements have come down to us of the revenues of the districts of Ash Sham, during the period immediately preceding the Crusades, when that province foimed an inteigial portion of the Muslim Empire. The sums are reckoned in Dtnirs and Dirhams, the standard gold and silver coins instituted by the Omayyad Khalif ^Abd al Malik, about tiie year 72 (691). The names Diniar and Durham the Arabs borrowed from denarius and drathma^ denarius being the name of the silver^cjiii among the Romans, which the (ireeks termed \.\w drai hma. |^In passing to the Arabs, however, denarius^ or J)un'ir, ciime to he the name of their gold coin, worth, in the ninlli and tenth centuries, something nntlcr ten shillings. It weighs rather over 59^ grains I'roy. The drachma, or Dirham^ continued the name of the silver coin with the Muslims, and during the same period was exchanged at the rate of about fifteen Difhams to the gold Dln^. The Dirham weighs about 47 \ grains TklBUTE .\ND TAXES. Digitized by Google 44 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Troy, and, at the ratio ^ gold and silver of those early days^ was worth about eightpencej/ To form, however, a just idea of what the sums named in the following lists represent in the currency of the present day, some account must be taken of the depreciation of the purchasing power of gold and silver, since the discovery of the New World in the fifteenth century. Previous to that period, as it is general 1> estimated, an ounce of gold commanded an amount of food and ^labour whic h would be paid by three ounces at the present day. Hence, though a Dinar be the equivalent in gold of about ten shillings >terling, it was equal tf> at least thirty shilhngs in pur- chasing power of the moneys of the present day. With regard to the silver coin, the Dirhani, a Hke calculation has to be made, which further has to l^e modified if we take into account the great depreciation which silver has suffered in modern time& An ounce of gold in Mukaddasi's days bought, approximately speaking, 12 ounces of silver, while at the present day (1889) for an ounce of gold we should get some 22} ounces of silver. Therefore^ though the Dirham is worth intrinsically about eight- pence, but would, as one fifteenth part of a gold Dinar, purchase goods, at the present day, tor the \aliiL of three limes this amount {i.c'. two .shillings) — silver itself having now so much fallen in value, the purchasing power of the Dirham's weight of silver is reduced to almost half this latter amount, and in the currency of to-day it may therefore be reckoned at somewhat over the shilling.^ I. The earliest date of which we have details of the Revenues of the Muslim Empire is the account preserved by Ibn Khaldftn, in the "Prolegomena" of his Universal History^ a work written in the fourteenth century a.d. Ibn Khaldfln says he copied the account from a work called Jirah ad DaulaH ("The Provision-Sack of the State"), and that it represents the tribute paid during the reign of the Khalif al MamOn. Internal evidence, however, makes it certain that the statement refers to a date about hail a century before the days of. Al Mauiun; namely, to the Kiialifate of his grandfather, Al Mahdi — that is, between 158 and 170 a. h., or about 780 A.li I he original Arabic will be found ui the lirst volume of the Cairo Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 45 edition of the text of Ibn Khaldfln, at page 150. The figures in brackets arc readings from other NfSS, given by De Slane in his translation of the " Prolegomena (vol. i. 364) : Dinars. Kinnasrin ProviDce . 4CK>,ooo (420,000},///^ a thuusaiul loads of olivc-oi). Him* Piovtnce . Wanting. Damascus Province . 420,00a Jordan Province . 97iOOO (96,000)^ Filastin Province 1 ^^^^ ^'^ 300.ooo RatU (Syrian pounds) of olive- ' I oil. Total : i.227»ooo ( t , 246,000) Dtn^nt, nbont ^^'620,000 sterling intrinsically, or toraetliing short of two millions sterling of our money. 2. During the reign of Hiriin ar Rashid (a.h. 170 to 193) about the year 800 a.d.» a summary of the revenues of the Muslim Empire was prepared for the use of the Wazir Yahyd, the Barme- cide. This summary is preserved in the Ai/d^ a/ IVusdrd^ " The Book of the Wazbs,'' written by Al JahshiyirT; ift^as brought to the notice of the Seventh Orientalist Congress at Vienna by A. von Kremer, and parts of the text were published by him in the Transactions ( Verhandlungen^ Semiiische Section, IViea, 1888). Accord in<; to this work the following were the sums received by the treasury during the iciL^n of the great Khdlil. They uic identical in most cases with Ibn Ivhaldun's list already given : Dfttdrs. Kinnasrin and AI *A«rasim Provinces . 4J0fi€0. Him. I-rovioce . . . . ) >*" '•«» «'»•»•»«* «f { raisins.* Damascus Province . . • 420,00a jurdan Province . . . 96,000. Filaslin Province , ;io,rjoo. And in additiun, from all the Syrian Junds together, 300,000 KatU (Syrian pounds) of raisins. Total : i,6i6,ooo Dinars, or about ^808,000 stcrlipg, equivalent to nearly two and a half niiilions of our present currency. ^ 3. The next staieuiciit of the Revenues dales from a period hall" * A* ZaMbt probably a mistake in the MS. for Ai ZaU^ olive-oii." Digitized by Google 64 PALESTIKB UNDER THE MOSLEMS, a century later than the foregoing, lit is given by Kud&mah in his work caUed ITi/d^ el KhardJ (<<The Book of the Land Tax'*), written about the year 880 A.D., and purports to have been copied from official lists of the year 304 A.H. (820). He gives the sums in both Dtn&rs and their equivalent Dirhams. Extracts from Kuddmah's text will be found in De Slane's paper in the Journai A:>iatiquc for the year 1862, from whicii lixc follow- ing is copied : DftKfrSy or itt Dir/ia')"-. Kinnnsrin and 'Awasim Provinces . . . 360,000 5,400.0^0 Hims Province Damascus Province Jordan Province Filasttn Province 118,000 i,770,oco 120,000 1,800,0:0 109.000 i,63S,oco 195,000 3,925,000 J This makes a lotal o( 902,000 I)in;irs, equivalent (0^45 1,000 intrinsically, cloiie on a million and a half in uur present currency. 4. Ibn Khurdadbih, in his Book of tiu Roads and the Prm inas, gives the following sums. The text will be found on pages 71 and 73 of the extracts given by Barbier de Meynard in the Jourmi Asiathjue for the year 1865.'^ Ibn Khiirdadbih's figures are also identical with those given by Ibn al Fakih, who wrote in 903. (I. F., 103, io5» 110, lit, and ii6.) Ibn Khurdidbih drew his account from the official lists giving the revenues of the years immediately preceding the writing of his book--that is, about A.D. 864: Dinars, or in Dirhams. Kinna&rin and Awasini Provinces . . . 400,000 6,000,000 Hinu Province Damascus Province Jordan Province Fiiastin Province 340,000 5, 100,000 400,000 6,000,000 350^000 3,250^000 500,000 7,500,000 The total is 1,990^000 Dinars, or abont a million sterling, equivalent* bow- ever, to three millions of the present cnrrency. 5. Ihn Khurdadbih, besides the figures just given, cites the following on the authority of Al Isfahani, who flourished in the earlier part of llic ninth century a.d. ; Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 47 DtHdrs, Hims Province ....... under 180,000 Damascus Province . . , • ♦ • »» 140,000 Jordaa Pfovince . . . . • • • «» 175,000 Filast in Province . . . . • •* 175,000 This makes a total of only 670,000 DTnflrs, or j^335,OOCV eqnivftlent 10 about a million sterling of the present currency. 6. Y^kObi, who wrote bis Gtography in 891, gives the following list : Hims Provincei not inclnding lUte forms .... 220^000 Damascus Province, including stale farms .... 300^000 Jordan Province, without the farms ..... 100,000 FtlasUn Province^ indiuUi^s forms ..... 300,000 Making a total of 920^000 Dln&rs, that is/460,000. equivalent to nther nnder a milliun and a half of our currency. (Yb. 112^115, li6^and 117.) \^ 7. According to Ihn Haukal (I. H., 128), the revenue of Syria in A.H. 296 (908), and in a.m. 306 (918), after deduction ot the pay of the officers, was 39,000,000 Dirhams ; that is ^1,300,000, equivalent to almost four millions of the present day.^ 8. Ibn al F^kih. and Ibn Khurdadbih's figures, are copied by Mukaddasi^ '^hffliowever, gives the following as the revenue in his own days, a.d. 985. (Muk.» 189.) DSn6rs. Kinnasrln and AI ' Awisim ...... 360,000 namnjscus Province ..•*•«. 400. oro |r»rdan Province 170,000 Fsiastin Province ....... 259,cx30 Thi^ eive> a total of 1, 1 89,00 J Dinars, or about ^6oo,ooo, equivalent to ;^i,boc^ooo of the present currency*/ After Mukaddasi's days, apparently there is no known record of the revenues of Syria. A century later came the Crusaders ; and when, after another century, the country had reverted ^in to the Muslims, wliat Saladin and his successors in Egypt drew from the Syrian revenues is not recorded. The following table gives a summar)- ot the total revenues of the Syrian Provinces at the various epochs uidicated in the tore- going paragraphs : Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. 1. Revenues of about the year 780 a.d. 2. Revenues of Hdnin ar Rashtd's days (about $00) 3. Reveoues in the year Sao . 4. Revenues about the year 864 5. Revenues in t)ic early part of the ninth century 6. Revenues in S91 . 7. Kevenuts in 908 and 918, 39,000,000 Dirltams equal to . & Revenues in 985 .... Dindrs, 1,227,000 I,6i6p000 902,000 1,990,000 670,000 920,000 2,600^000 1,189,000 EqnitfaUnt in C'* 620,000 808,000 451,000 995»«)o 335.000 460,000 i.jooyooo 594>S«> WEIGHTS AND MEASURES USED IN SYRIA. The names of the Arab weights and measures are, many of them, taken from the Greek or I^tin, being those that were in use in the Syrian provinces of the Byzantine Empire at the time of the Muslim invasion. Thus the Afudi is the Roman com-measure, the AfodiuSy generally rendered by bushel. The Okiyyah is the Greek Olryyia, or ounce ; and the Rati (pronounced also Riii and Rutl) is, by inversion of the " I " and " r," the Greek A/rpo, or litre. The Arabic KtrAt, which we have borrowed, and spell "carat," was, in the first instance, an Arab corruption of the Greek word Kf^ariev, the fruit of the keratea, carob or locust tree, better known as the St. John's bread. '1 he names of the Kajiz, ll'aiimh^ .5^*, KaiJajah, and Hahb (or weie:ht of n t:;r(u'n) arc all of native Arab ori«;in. The KaM is etymologically identical with the Hebrew word "cab," a measure containing a quart and a third. In Greek, too, wc iind Kd^o; for the name of a corn-measure; and the Greeks are said to have received the name from the East. The Makk&k is said to have been adopted from the Persians, with whom it was the royal drinking-cup, in shape resembling a boat ; and MakkOk " is even at the present day in Persia the name given to the weaver's shuttle, which has a boat*like form. The /Mfrr^, which was the sixth part of either Dirham or D!n^, is also a Persian word ; and Ddnak in that language signifies a grain." * Intriii'^icaUy \ to be multiplied by three to obtain the value in coin of the present day. Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 49 The basis of the Arab measures of capacity is the Sd\ the com- measiune of the days of the Prophet, which was ruled to contain the equivalent of four times the quantity of com that fills the two hands, that are neither laige nor small, of a man.*** Koughly speaking, it may be taken as rather more than 5 pints ; and on this estimate the following equivalents, in English measures, are calculated. The Xisf, which was half a S/i\ came from the Greek Sfffnjy, which represents the Roman sexlarius. 1 As regards the system of weights, the unit is the silver Dirham weight, equivalent to about 47^ English grains. It must, how- ever, be rememhered that the Rati (or pound-weiglit) is not only a standard of weight, but also a measure of capacity ; for the Arabs, like the Romans, calculated cubic measure by the weight of a specific quantity of oil or wine. In the same double capacity, the Kafiz is not only the com>measure, but also the land*measure, being the land that may be sown with that quantity of com, and, as such, counted as the tenth part of the Jartb^ the normal square measure for cultivated lands. The unit of length was^he J)Aird\ or ell, which, however, varied at different epochs. \Vhe Royal Ell (VAird* MStWd) of the tenth century measured about 18 inches in length : while the Workman's Ell, in use at a kuui date (fourteenth and fifteemii i^ntunes), measured about 2] feet. ' \ ' The Persian traveller N'asir-i-Khusrau, whose measurements are, archaeologically, of great iniportance, makes use of two Persian units of length —namely, Gez and /Irsh. The latter is given as the equivalent of the Arabic Dhir4', eil or cubit] while the Gez is generally reckoned to be longer than the cubit, and is given in the dictionaries as roughly equivalent to the English yard. A careful comparison of the passages in which NSsir-i-Khusrau employs these measures leads, however, to the conclusion that he used the terms as synon}inous,t and that both the Ges (ell) and the Arsh (cubit)>^may be taken as measuring somewhat under two English feet. ^ The Aral) Mil, or mile, was directly borrowed from the I. \ * I fine's Arabic I )ictionarv, s. v. S<i' f bcc Chapter Hi., description by Nasir-i-Khusrau ot the Dome of the Kock. 4 Digitized by Google 50 PALESilSE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Byzantines ; it contained 4,000 Dhir^', or ells, and may, therefore^ be reckoned at somewhat over 2,000 yards. Roughly speaking, it is the geographical mile, or knot. Three Arab miles commonly went to the Farsakh^ a word borrowed by the Arabs from the Persians, who uiute Fatsan^^ frum the Greek rtutandyyrti. Tlirougliuut Syria, as in all other parts of tlic Muslim Empire, there was a network of post-roads, with pnst houses, where horses were kept at the Government expense. The post-stage was called by the Arabs Al Band. The institution is of very ancient date, and the word used by the Arabs is probably a romiption of the l^tin Veredus — "a post-horse." The length of the stage naturally varied with the nature of the country to be traversed. ) Mukaddasi writes as follows on the Measures and Weights of Syria during his days — namely, at the close of the tenth century a.d. : " Measures of Or/awVy.— The people of Ar Ramlah (the capital of Palestine) make use of the Kaftz, the Waibah, the Makkfik, and the Kailajah. **'l'hc Kailajali (or L^allon) coiUains about \ \ Sa's. "The Makkuk (3 i^allons) ecjuals 3 Kailajahs. "The Waibah (6 ^^illons) is 2 MakkQks. "The Kafiz (3 bushels) is 4 Waibahs. " I'he people of Jerusalem are wont to make use of the Mudi (2 bushels), which contains two-thirds of a Kafiz ; and of the Kabb, which equals a quarter of the Mud! ; and they do not use the MakkOk at all, except in the Government measurements. " In 'Amm&n, the Mud! equals 6 Kailajahs (three-quarters of a bushel) — ^their Kafiz is the half of the Kailajah (or gallon) — and by this measure they sell their olives and dried figs " In Tyre, the Kaffz is the same as the Mudt of Jerusalem, and the Kailajah here equals the Sa*. "At Damascus, tlie Ghirarah contains Talestine Kafiz (equivalent, thereftjre, to 4i bushels). "Measures of Wei^^ht. — In Syria, from Hims (Emessa) even to (the countn,' lyini^ between Palestine and Eg}'pt known as) Al Jifar, the Ratls avern-e 600 (Dirhams weight each); but some more, some less. Of these the heaviest is the Rati of Acre, and the lightest that of Damascus. Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 51 "The Ckiyyah (ounce) contains from 40 and odd up to 50 (Dirhams of weighty and every Rati contains 12 Ckiyyah, or ounces (and is equivalent, therefore, to 6 lbs.}, except only at Kinnasrin, where the Katl is two-thirds of this (and contains only 4 lbs.). " The standard weight ul ihc < oin in Syria is very nearly every- where tiie Dirham weight of 60 grains, and their grain (Habb) is the gram of l)arley-corn. The Danik (which is the sixth of the Dirhaiu) weighs 10 grains. " The I Hn^ contains 24 Kir^ts; and their Kirat is equivalent to 3^ barley-corns (each barley-com weighing about seven-tenths of a grain, English). The distance between the post-stations (the Barid) in Syria is generally 6 miles." (Muk., 181, 182.) Ndsir-i'Khusrau notes — 1047 .vd. — that in the bazaars of Aleppo the weight in use was the Dhdhtri Rati, which contains 480 Dirhams weight. (N. Kh., 2.) This was named after the Egyptian 1 atimitc Klialif, DhShir li Izazi Uin lllah, and at this rate was equivalent to about 3^ lbs. 4— a Digitized by Google CHAPTER 11. SYRIA AND PALESTINE {cmiit$ueet^. Mirers : The Jordan and its triliularies — The river«; of the coast — The fivers of Damascus -The Oronles. — Rivers of the norihcrn provinces. ZaXr jr ; The Dead Sea — The Lake of Tilierias — The iiulah — Damascus Lakes— Lake of Hims and of Af&miyy ah— Lakes of Antioch. MoHnUum: Sinai— Moant Hor— The Mount of Olives— MeuntaiQ* chains of Palestine : £bal and Gerizim, Jabal 'Atnilah— The JauUn bills — Lebanon nKmntains— Mountains round Damascus— Hermon— Jabal al Lakk&m. RIVERS. Nahr al Urduun. — The Jordan, in the earlier Arab chronicles, is invariably given the name of Al Urdunn, a word corre.siionding with the Hebrew Ha-Yardeii (almost always written with the article), meaning "the Descender." Al Urdunn further gave the name to the Military Province (Jund) of the Jordan. After the time of the Crusades the Jordan, in the Arab histories, begins to be called Ash Shart'ah, 'Uhe Watering-Place^" the name by which it is known to the Bedawin of the present day.' Nahr al Urdunn/' says Mukaddasi, rises above BaniySs, and descending, forms a Lake over against Kadas (called the HOlah Lake) ; thence again descending to Tiberias, its waters spread out and form the I^ke bearing that name ; and hence, kitiher descending troin the valley of the Ghaur, it falls into the Over- whelming Lake which is the Dead Sea). The river Jordan is not navigal)le for boats.** Mukaddasi also s])eaks of the bridge over the Jordan south of the lower end of the Lake of Tiberias, across which lies the road to Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 53 Ddtnascus, known at the present day as the Jisr al Majami'ah. (Milk., 184, 161.}) \ aKut, quoting from Ahincd Ibn at Tib as Sanikhsi (died 899 A.I).), says the Jordan is divided into the Greater {Urdunn al /CiiMr), which is the Jordan above Tiberias; and the I-esscr JJ^ rdunn as Saghir)^ which is the Jordan below the Sea of Galilee. ^^'he Jordan waters all the country of the Ghniir where the sugar-canes are grown in the lands round Baisan, Karawa, ArihI. ( JerichoX and Al 'Auj^" Ydktt refers also to the bridge below the Lake of Tiberias, which he says **is finely built, and has more than twenty arches. The Nahr Yatmdk (Hieromax) joins the Jordan near here, coming down from the Bathaniyyah Province/^ (Yak., i. 200.) **Nahr al Urdunn (says Abu-1 Fidd, writing in 1 321) is the river of the (ihaiir called also Ash Shari'ah (the Watering-place). Its source is in the streams thai flow down from the Mount of Snuw (Hermon) into the Lake of Banivas (HQlah). From this lake the Shari'ah flows out, and pai>.sing, falls into the T ake of Til)erias. From the Lake of Tiberias it passes onward going south. The river YarmOk joins the Shari'ah after it has left the Lake of Tilx;rias, and at a point between that lake and Al Kasair. The Shart'ah, which is the Nahr Urdunn aforesaid, flows thence southward in the midst of the Ghaur, passing by Bats&D, and on, south again, past Rlh& (Jericho); and again southward, till it falls into the Stinking Lake, which is the Lake of Zughar (or the Dead Sea). ' (A. F., 48.) "Nahr al Urdunn, or the Shart'ah,*' writes Dimashki, "is a river with abundant water. It rises at Haiiivas, and flows down to the Huldh district, and forms the Uake of Kadas — so called after the Hebrew city (of Kadesh Naphthali), the remains of which are un the hill al)ove and Kadas was the name of the Hebrew king of that country. Into this lake there fall many streams and waters. Passing out thence, the Jordan traverses the district of Al Khaitah, and comes to the Jisr Va'kfib, under the Kasr Va'kdb, and reaching the Sea of Tiberias, falls into it. Leaving this, it passes to the Ghaur. (At the hot springs of Tabariyyah, there flows out, veiy marvellous to see, hot salt-water»" ■ Digitized by Google 54 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. ** From the hot springs, too, that rise at a village called Jadar (Gadara (?), at present Umm Keis) — and where there are waters for healing every sort of disease that men suffer from — ^there comes down a great river (the YarmAk) that joins the Jordan, alter it has left the I^ke of Tiberias, at a place called Al Majami' in the Cxiiaur. The two rivers tlien l)cc()nie one. and as they flow on, their waters become even more abundant, for near Baisan many springs join the Jordan ; and below this again other sprintjs come in, till at last the Jordan flows into the Lake of Zughar, which is salt and stinking, and is called the Lake of Lot The river flows into it but does not flow out. The lake does not increase in volume in winter for all the water that flows down to it ; neither does the quantity of its waters decrease in summer. But the Jordan flows into it night and day." (Dim., 107.) JVa^r al YartiM (the ancient Hieromax). — "The river Yarmiik," says YIdcOt, ''is a W&di in Syria, running into the Ghaur. The waters fall into the river Jordan, and thence flow down to tlu' Stinking Lake (or Dead Sea). Here, on the Yarniuk, was fought tile great battle between the Muslims and the (ireeks, in the Khalif Abu Bakrs days. The field of l)attle was a W adi called Al W'akilsah (the Place of Breaking-u})). It lies in the Haurin Province of Syria. The Muslims, in the days of Abu fiakr, lay encamped on the Yarmfik when they marched to make their raid against the Greeks. They fell on the idolaters, and Khilid hastened on the people to the slaughter. And certain of them pursued the enemy till they came to a high place that overhung a ravine ; down into this the enemy fell, for they did not see it, the day being misty, or, as some say, because it was night-time. Those of the Greeks who fled and came up later did not know what was happening to those in front ; and they fell into the ravine also. It was impossible to count those of the enemy who were slain, but by estimate 80,000 of the (ireeks perished. I'his ravine has been called Al WakuNali Irom that day till now, heeause the (Ircck army was ' bnjken-up ttiere.' When the morning dawned, and no infidels were to be seen, the Muslims imagined they had put themselves in ambush; till at length they gained knowledge of their state. Such as were left fled, the Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 55 Muslims following them and slaying them, until the Greek anny was completely routed. ' (Yak., iv. 893, 1015 ; Mar., iii. 272, 339.) Nahral Vannilk (the river Hieromax)," says Dimashki, ** flows down from the Jabal Ar Rayy&n." (Dim., tio.) iVoAr as ZarJkd (the river jabbok).--" Nahr az ZaikA (the Blue River) flows down from the country of Hisbin (HeshbonX and joins the Jordan/' (Dint, no.) **It is a larjje river," says Vakflt, "and it falls into the Ghaur. It runs throup,h ^iccn-clad places and inany gorges, and it was the land of the ancient Himyarite Tuhha kinu>. In this country arc many wild animals and carnivorous beasts. " (Yak., li. 924.) ' ^Nahral Maujih (the river Arnon). — ^" This/' says Idrisi, "is the name of the great river, with a deep lied, shut in by two cliffs of the mountain sides, which you pass through going from the dis- trict of Ash Shaiih to 'AmmAn. Fhe road goes between these two difis, which are not for apart, being distant so little space that a man may talk to another across them. The difis overhang the banks of the river, and though, as just said, you may hear a man speak across from one to the other, you must descend six miles and ascend six if you would get from the one clifl' to that opposite/' *' Al MOjib, or Al Maujih/' says \akut, "is a place in Syria, lying between Jerusalem and the Balka l*rovince." (Yak., iv. 678 ; Mar., iii. 171.) Nahr al 'Aujd ("the Crooked River "), or Nahr Abi Fmrns ("the River of Peter's Father"). — "This is a river/' writes Y'akat," •/ / • ** running some twelve miles from Ar Ramlah towards the north. It rises from springs in the mountains in the neighbourhood of NAbulus, and falls into the sea between Ars&f and Y&£9L Many great battles have been fought on its banks, and when two armies meet beside the Nahr Abi Futnis, it is always the army on the eastern bank that is routed. /Thus it was at the battle between the Abbasides and Omayya(K in 132 (750),] and at the battle between the Tftlftnids and the Khalif al Mu'tadid, at the place called At Tawahin (the Mills), on its banks. (Yak., iv. 131 ; Mar., iii. 243.) ** Al Auja is the name of a river running between Ars£lf and Digitized by Google 56 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, At Ramlah (and is ihc same as ihc Nahr Abi Fuirus)/* (Yak., iiL744.) ^**The Nahr Abi Futnis," says^Abu-1 Fida, *'is the river that runs near Ar Ramlah in Filastiny In Muhallaln s work railed the ^Azhi^ it is said to l)e the same as the Nahr al 'Auja (the Crooked). It runs about twelve miles north of Ar Kamlah. They say that when two aniiies meet on its banks^ it is always the western host that wins, while the eastern is put to the rout (Thus the Khalif al Mu'tadid fled (884 a.d.) from the Khumaruwaih ibn Ahmad ibn T^Mkn ; and the Fatimite Khalif of Egypt Al 'Azfz conquered and took prisoner Haftaktn the Turk (975 a.d.), the latter being vrith his army on the eastern bank.^ The source of the river is under Jabal al Khalil, opposite the ruined castle of Majdaliy&bah. Its course is from cast to west, and it falls into the (ireek Sea to the south of the K>w lands of Arsiif. From its source to its mouth it is less than a day s journey in length." NaJtr Laitah (the Litany River), miscalled the heontes, is at the present day known as Al Kasimiyyah. It is mentioned by Idrisi in the twelfth century. " The Nahr Laitah falls into the sea between Siir (Tyre) and Saiafand* It rises in the mountains, and comes down here to the sea." (Id., I a.) Nahr Laitft,** says Dimashki, " has its source in the lands of Karak NQh (Noah's Stronghold). There, many springs and streams come together, and the river flows along the base of the Jabal Lubnaii (Lebanon), passing jabal Mashghara, and into the same there flow many sprmgs. 'I'hencc it passes Al Jarmak, and afictwards Ash Shakif, a great and strong castle. Below this it becomes a large ri\er, and falls into the *\iediterranean not fer from Tyre." (Dim., 107.) Nahr al Kalb (the Dog River), the ancient Lycus, is men- tioned by YakAi, who states that *'it flows between BairOt and Sidon, and is of the Frontier Strongholds, called Al 'Aw&sim.'' (Y&k., iv. 298, 843 ; Mar., ii. 350, 508.) This is, however, a mistake, as the Dog River flows Into the sea north of BairOt (A. F., 48.) Digitized by Google SYRtA AND PALESTtNE. 57 JVaAr IbrdlAm,-^^^ K river of the Syrian coast, with but a short course. Its ivaters come down from the Lebanon mountains and Kasniwin, and running down to the coast, fall into the Mediter- ranean.'' (Dim., 107.) Hahr al Abtar (" the Curtailed — " A river,*' writes Dimashki, ** which flows into the sea between Bulunyas and jabalah. It is so called oil a( count ut" its short < (.)ursL', antl bcrausc its waters are not u>cd (for irripjation), and that, (lc>i)itc their abundance and rapidity, there are no t anals taken troni this river. On an island in it are the remains of a fortress called Buldah. It was one of the strongest of places, but was dismantled by its garrison, and this by reason of their quarrelh'ng each with the other, whi( h led to their dispersion, lliis island is one of the most beautiful places to be seen in this country ; one half of it is washed by the sea, and the part, that is toward the mainland is surrounded by the waters of the river. Thus half is on salt water, half on fresh, but to the sight they both appear but one water, which surrounds the island on all sides." (Dim., 209.) The Sabbatical Rwer. — The source of this stream was visited by Nasir-i Khusrau m 1047. He writes : " ^\'e went i)y the ( (jast road from Hama southwards, and in the nuxintauiN saw a sj)ring which, they say, tlow^ with water but once a year, when the middle-day of the (lunar) month of Sha'al)an is past- It continues running for three days, after which it gives out not a single drop of water more, until the next year. A great many people visit this place in pilgrimage, seeking propitiation whereby to approach God-^may He be praised and glorified ! — and they have constructed here a building and a water-tank.** (N. Kh., 5.) This account doubtless refers to the source of the Sabbatical River of antiquity, visited by Titus (Josephus, Wars^ vii., 5, >^ 1). It is at the present day called Faunvarah ad Dair^ " The Foun- tain of the Convent," that is, of Mar Jirjis (St. Cieorgc), the build- ing spoken of by Nasir. josephus asserts that the spring ceases to flow on Saturdays. The Muslims of the present day say tndays. Nahr Barada. — ^Barada, the ancient Abana, is the chief river Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. of Damascus. Some description of the neti^'ork of strean^s which water the plain of Damascus will be given in Chapter YI. " Rivers occur in some numbers," writes Mukaddasi, ** through- out the province of Syria, and they flow for the most part into the Mediterranean Sea— all except the Barada, which, dividing below the city of Damascus, waters the district In its upper course, an arm branching Irom the main stream encircles the northern part of the city, and divides below into two branches, one ul which runs towards tile ilesert and loniis there a lake, while the other descends till it joins the Jordan." (Miik.. 184.) "The Barada, also called Baradaya," according to Yakut, "is the chief river of Damascus. There is another river, also, called Binas, but the Barada is the main stream, h takes its rise in a valley near a village called Kanwa of the district of Az Zabad^ni, five leagues from Damascus and near Ba'albakk. From the springs there, it flows down to Ftjah, which is a village two leagues from Damascus. Here another spring joins it, and their united waters flow on to a vfllage called Jumraya. When the stream of the BaradS approaches Damascus, many canals are led off it, for the>' have built weirs wliich turn the water aside ; to the nortli are two canals under Jabal Kasiyun, the upper called Nalir \ azid, and the lower Thaura. 'i'he former was dug by the Khalif Vazid ibn Mu'awiyah." (Yak., iv. 846; Mar., iii. 253.) " The latter name is often incorrectly spelt Thaurah." (Yak., i./938 ; Mar., i. 131.) \^"The Nahr Yazid, going off" at the village of Jumraya, takes a moiety of the waters and flows under the foot of Jabal Kdsiydn. The Thaurft bifurcates at the village of Dummar, and below this again, to the south, there are led away the waters of the B&nfis. After this the- main stream of the Baradi flows on towards the city, and there is taken from it the canal called Nahr al Kanawftt, which is but a small stream. On reaching the city, the Nahr al Kanawat divider into numerous water-ciiannels (Kanawal) towards tlie south, and flows through all the houses of the town. A great canal, that already mentioned, the Banas, flows through the Castle and the neighljourmg houses in Damascus, and after dividing into various water-channels, proceeds through the Ghautah, irrigating all Digitized by GoogL SYRIA AND PALESTINE. the fields beyond the gates called 6&b as Saghir, and Bit) ash Sharkt. The main stream of the Barad^ after passing through the dty, flows also through the Ghautah, and loses itself in the lake to the east. Coming down from the north, the waters of the Thauni likLnvise fall into this lake, as also tlu: Xahr al Yazid, which waters all the gardens on the north of i)amascus."J (Yak., L 556 ; . y Mar., i. 141.) l^ie OronUs. — Thif; river was called by the Greeks 'A^/o; r:wa;s.fji, from the old S)Tian name of "Atzoio," meaning " The Rapid." The Arabs corrupted this name into A/ 'Ast\ or " The Rebel River," calling it also Al Jfakm, "The Overturned." be cause it flowed in a contraiy direction to most other rivers, that is, from the south to the north. The Crusaders, with their usual haphazard method of identification, consideied the Orontes to represent the Biblical Pharphar, and refer to it in their Chronicles under that name. ** AntSkiyyah,"* says Idrisi, *Mies on the river A! Maklfib, which is called also Al Urunt (C)rf)ntes). This river rises in the territory of Damascus, at a place near where the desert road bifur- cates. From thence the stream flows down and passes Hims ; then traverses the two cities of Hamnh and Shniznr and reaches Antioch, where it flows round the northern side of the city, and, tumincr south, falls into the sea to the south of As Suwaidiyyah.'' (id., 23.) According to YiUcftt, when the Orontes leaves the Lake of Kadas, it is known as A/ Mtmds, or Ai Maimds ; at Hamih and Hims, it is called Al *Asi, and near Antdkiyyah it goes by the name of Al Ufunt or Al Urund. (Yak., i. 23.1, iii. 588 ; Mar., L 5t, ii. 326.) **The river of Hamah," says Abu-1 Fid4, "is also called Al Urunt, or the Nahr al MaklOb (The Overturned), on account of its course from souifi to north; or, again, it is called Al 'Asi (The Rebel), for the rea^Mii that though most rivers water the lands on their borders without the aid of the water-wheels, called Daidb and Nd'Urah — that is, merely by the flowing of the water the river of Hamih will not irrigate the lands except by the aid of these machines for mising its waters. The river runs in its entire Digitized by Google 6o PALESTINE UNDER I HE MOSLEMS. length from south to north. At its origin it is a small stream, rising near a domain, about a day's journey to the north of Ba'al- bakk, at a place called Ar RAs. It runs north from Ar Rils till it reaches a place called Kiini (Station oQ al Hirniil, lying between JQsiyah and Ar Ras. Here, where it passes through a valley, is the main sourrc of ihc ri\cr al a i)lare called Ma^har.u ar Rahib {'The Monk's Cave'): thence lowing northwards and passing Jusiyah, it falls into the Lake of Kadas to thr west of Hims. From this lake the river flows out, passing Hims and on by Ar Rastan to Hamah, thence by Shai/ar to the I^ike of Afamiyyah. From the l^ke of Afamiyyah it goes by Dark Ash to the Iron Bridge (j4i Jisral Hadhi), Bounding the river to the east hitherto, there has been the Jabal Lukkim, but when it reaches the Iron Bridge the mountains sink, and the river turns here and goes south and westward, passing by the walls qf Ant&kiyyah, after which it falls into the Greek Sea at As Suwaidiyyah. "There flow into the Orontes a number of streams, ist A river which rises under the city of Afamiyyah, and, flowing west- wards, falls into the l^ke of Afamiyyah, where its waters join those of the Orontes. " 2nd. A river risinix about two miles to the north of Afamiyyah, called An Nahr ai Rabir (' The (keat River'). It runs a short distance, and then falls likewise into the I^ke of Afamiyyah; the waters of these two leave the lake as the Orontes. "3rd. An Nahr al Aswad, or (in Turkish) Kara Sou (*The Black River '), which flows from the north, and passes under Dar- bassak. 4th. Nahr YaghriL This rises near the town of Yaghrit, and^ after passing the same, falls into the Black River mentioned above, and they together flow into the Lake of AntHkiyyah. 5th. Nahr Ifrin, which comes from the country of the Greeks, and flows by Ar Rawandan to the district of Al Jumah. After passing Al Jtimah, it flows on to the district called Al *Umk (*The Bottom '), and there joins the Black River; these three, namely, the Black River, the Nahr Vaghrn, and the Nahr Ifrin, become a single stream and fall into the Huhairah (or l^ke of) Antdkiyyah, flowing out from which their waters become the ' Asi (or Digitized by GoogL SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 6i Orontes) which comes down from Hamah above Antakiyyah and to the east* of the city." (A. F., 49.) The Nahr 'Ast," says Dimashki, which between Hamih and Ar Rastan is called the Nahr Unint, has its source at the villages called Al Libwah and Ar Ris, near Ba'albakk, and thence flows down to Hims. A great spring of water comes down and joins it, called 'Ain al Hirmil, above which is an Observatory of the ancient Sabaeans, which resembles the two Observatories to be seen al Hims, called Al Magh/alaiii. The 'Asi flows on from here past the walls of Hi.sn al Akrad, and its waters are quite clear, even like tears, till they enter the Lake of Hims ; but on leaving this they are troubled, hke the waters of the Nile, and do not become clear again till the river reaches the district called Ard ar Riij. Ultimately the river flows down past As Suwaidiyyah and out into the sea." (Dim., 107, 207, 259.) ASiAr Kuwaik, — ^The ancient Chalus, and the river of Aleppo. "It rises," says Idrisi, "at a village called Sinib^ sixteen miles firom D&bik. Thence to Halab is eighteen miles, aft^ which it passes to Kinnasrin in twenty miles, and on to Marj al Ahmar (* the Red Meadow An<l below this is swallowed up after a twelve miles' course in the marshes. From its source to its disappear- ance in the marshes it is 42 miles in length." (Id. 25.) Vdkut gives much the .^anie information, only that lie writes the name of the village, where the Kuwaik rises, Sabt<if or Sahft'tr^ addmg that some place the source at Sahadir, six miles from Dahik. He states the total length of the Kuwaik to he 48 miles, i he waters are sweet, but in the summer-time it almost dries up. After the winter rains^ however, it becomes a fine stream, and the poets of Aleppo compare it to Al Kauthar, the river of Paradise.' (Yak., iv. 306 J Mar., ii. 462.) ^'The Kawaik River, opposite Jabal Jaushan, near Halab, is called Al 'Aujto." (Yak., iii. 744; Mar., ii. 388.) Dimashki describes the Kuwaik in much the same terms. He says : *' The libertines of Halab surname the river Abu-1 Hasan, 'Father of the Beautiful.' It ultimately flows through the Marj al Ahmar into the swamp called Buhairah al Matkh (the Lake uf Mud)." (Dim., 202 * The AiiS. rcail *' ia error. Digitized by Google 62 PALESTWE USDER THE MOSLEMS. Nahr al Azrak ("the Blue River ").—" This," says Vdkat, "is a river of the Thughfir (Frontier Fortresses) between Bahasniand Hisn Mansilr, towards Halab/' (Yak., iv. 834 ; Mar., iii. 243.) Niiiiral Asivad^*^'' the Black River "). — " A river flowing near the Nahr al Azrak, and in the territories of Al Massissah and Tarsus."" (Yak,, iv. S34 ; Mar., iii. 243 ; see above, p. 6a) Nahr ^Jfrin. — The name of a river in the territories of Al Masstssah, which runs in the Halab territory." (Yak., iii. 689 ; Mar., ii 264 ; see above, p. 60.) Nahr adh Dhahah ("the River of C^old").— "The people of Aleppo call the W&dt Butn&n, which passes Buza'ah, by this name. This valley is one of the wonders of the world for beauty. The river flows down into a large swamp some two leagues long and broad, where its waters dry up. and leave salt This swamp ihcy call Al Jabbul, and the salt gathered here is exported to all parts ol Syria." (Yak., iv. S^c; ; Mar., iii. 246.) Na/ir Uurith. — " A river flowing out from the lake called Buhairah al Hadath, near Mar'ash, and falling into the river Jaihan." (Yak., iv. 838; Mar., iii. 246.) Nahr Jaihan (the Pyramus). — " Tlie Jaihan is a river which rises in the country of the Greeks. After passing down through the city of Al Massissah, it runs by certain villages known by the name of Al Mallun,*^ and then falls into the sea. It has on its banks many hamlets with numerous water-courses." (Is., 63; I.H., 122.) "The Nahr Jaih&n," says Abu-1 Fidd, "is a river almost of the size of the Euphrates. It passes through the land of Sts (Cilicia, or Little Armenia), and the vulgar name it Jah&n. It flows from north to south between mountains in the Greek terri- tories, till it passes to the north of Al Massissah, and then turning, goes from the east westward, and falls into the Greek Sea not fat from the above-named city." (A.I ., 50.) "The bepinninn of its cuur.se, ' says Dimashki, '* is near Zabauah. It rutiN unckr a huge rock. At its source is a church, like the church on the iSaihan, and its length is nearly equal to that of the SaihAn." (Dim., 107 ; also Yak., ii. 170, and Mar., i. 267, who add nothing to the above.) * The ancient MaUus, called in the Middle Ages Mda Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 63 MJkr SdiMtt (the Sarus). — " The river Saihin is of less size than the Jaihikn. There is across it a most wonderful stone bridge of extraordinary length. This river, too, rises in the land of the Cireeks." (Is., 64 ; LH., 122 ; copied by A,F., 249.) ''The Saihin," writes Mas*<lldi» "according to tradition, is one of the rivers whose source is in Paradise. It is the river of Adanah, one of the Syrian Fortresses, and it flows into the Medi- terranean It rises three days' journey beyond Malatyah, and Adanah is the only tuwnun ii ijclongin^ to the Miishnis. It Hows bclwfi-n i arsus and Al Massissah. Its sisler river, ihe Jaihan, has its s(nirces at the 'Uyftn Jaihan, three miles from the town of Mar'ash, and flows likewise into the Mediterranean. The only Muslim ( itic> on its banks are Al Massissah and Kalarbayyi." (Mas., n. 359.) "The Nahr Saihan," says Diniashki, "has the commencement of its course in the country of Malatyah, at a place where there is a fortress. There is here a church in which is a picture of Paradise and its inhabitants. The river runs down from thence, and its course to where it flows into the Mediterranean is 730 (?) miles in length." (Dim., 107.) Abu-l Fidi describes the Saihin in much the same terms, and adds : " It iiasses through the country of the Armenians — called in our day BiUld Sis — flowing lieside the walls of Adanah, and to the west of the same After passing Adanah^ which lies less than a day's march from Al Masstssah — the Saihiln joins the Jaihihi below Al Masstssah, and the two become one stream, which debouches into the Greek Sea between Ayas and Tarsus. ' 50.) The Saihan and Jaihan do not, at the present day, join their watcr.N, but flow into the Mediterranean by separate mouths. The names of Jaihan and Saihr^n were given to these frontier rivt-rs l)y the early Muslims, on the anahjgy of the Jaihan, and Sihun, the Oxus and Jaxaries, the frontier rivers of Central Asia. iVa/tr al Baradan (the Cydnus). — "This," says Mas'iidi "i.s the river of TarsOs, which flows into the sea on the coasts of Tarsus." (Mas., i. 264.) Ibnal Fakih says this river is also called AlGbadbin. (I.F., 116.) Digitized by Google 64 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. **A1 Baradin," says Y4kflt, "is a river of the Thughfir (or Frontier Fortresses). It rises in the Greek countiy, and flows into the sea six miles from TaisAs. It waters the gardens of Mar'ash, after rising at the foot of a mountain near there called Al 'Akra* (the Bald)." (Yak., t. 555 ; Mar., I 140.) LAKES. T/ie Dead Sea. — The Dead Sea, at the present day, is i^'cncrally known as the Bahr Lut, or " \jike of Lot." In earlier days it is spoken of as A/ Bnhairah a I Miyyaiah, the " Dead Lake," Ai Buhairah al Muntinah^ the " Stinking I^ke," or Al Maklub^ the ** Overwhelmed." from the cities of Lot that were overwhelmed in its depths. It is also referred to under the name of. the Sea of Zughar or Sughar, from the celebrated town of that name on its banks. It is to be noted that nowhere in the Bible is this lake called the Dead Sea, this denomination first occurring in Justin (xxxvi. 3, § 6), who speaks of the " Mare mortuum Pau- sanias also writes (v. 7, § 4) of eeeXet^tfa jj ytxpa. ''The Dead Sea, Al Buhairah al Miyyatah, sa)s YalcObt, *Mies in the district of Bait Jibrfn. It is from hence that the asphalt (^umrah) comes, which is also called Mrtmiyft.*' (Yb., 117.) , ^^^3' "The Dead Sea," according tu Istakhri and Ibn Haukal, *' lies in the fore (or soutlicrn) part of Ss iui, near Zughar, and in the Ghaur. It is called the Dead Sea because tliere is in it no livin.: creature nur fish. The waters throw up a substance called hununar (asphalt), which is used by the i)eople of Zughar for the fertili/aiion of their vines. The vines are so treated all over Palestine ; after the same manner the palm also is fertilized, by applying the male spathe; and so, too, the people of Al Maghrib (the West) fertilize their fig-trees with the flower of the male plant According to Istakhri, the Dead Sea is called Al Buhairah al Muntinah (the Stinking Lake)." (Is., 64 ; 1. H., 123 ; copied by A. F., 228.) The account of the fertilization of the vines with the bitumen is, of course, a vulgar error. The natives anoint the vine plants with bitumen to keep olf the worms and grubs, as is mentioned below in N^ir's account. The artificial fertilization of the palm and other fruit-bearing trees, is a subject very fully discussed by the Arab writers on horticulture. Digitized by Google SYBIA AND PALESTISE. «« I Mukadd.iM writes The Lake of Sughar (the Dead Sea) is a marvellous place, for the river Jordan and the river of the Sharah l>oth pour into it, and yet they change the level not at all. It is said th:it a man does not sink easily in its waters, and that (during storms) waves do not rise on its surface. With its waters, if a clyster be administered, the same is a cure for many disorders. They have a feast-day for the purpose of thus taking the waters, and it occurs in the middle of the month of Ah (August), when the people with those who are afflicted with sickness as.semble thereto.'* (Muk., 186.) - if, i '/ t > " Now the river Jordan, descending through the valleys of the Ghaur, falls into the Overwhelming Lake (which is the Dead Sea). This lake is completely salt, wUd, all-swallowing, and stinking. The mountains tower above it, but its waves never rise in the storm.*'^ (Muk,, 184.) .f The Persian traveller, N^ir>i-Khusrau, writing in 1047, speaks in the following terms of the Dead Sea : "South of Tiberias lies the Ikihairah Lilt (the Lake of Lot). 'I'he waters of this lake are salt, although the (fresh) waters of the Lake of Tilierias flow down into it. The cities of Lot were alonii^ ii>, borders, but no trace of them remains. A certain j)erson related to me that in the salt waters of this lake there is a sub- stance which gathers itself together from the foam of the lake, and is black, with the likeness in form to a bull's (carcase floating). This stuff (which is asphalt) resembles stone, but is not so hard. The people of the country gather it and break it in pieces, sending it to all the cities and countries round. When the lower part of a tree is covered with some of this (asphalt), no worm will ever do the tree a harm. In all these parts they preserve the roots of the trees by this means, and thus guard against the damage to the gardens that would arise from worms and things that creep below the soil. The truth, however, of all this rests on the credibility of the word of him who related it to me^ for I have not seen it They say, too, that the druggists also will buy this substance, for they hold that a worm, which they call the Nuktah, attacks their drugs, and that this asphalt preserves therefrom." (\. Kh., 1 7, 18. ) It is worthy of note that aii regards the appearance of tlie asphalt 5 Digitized by Google 66 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, floaiin*^ on the waters of tlie Dead Sea, Josephus uses much the same expressions. He writes (B. J., iv. 8, ^ 4) : ** The lake also emits in various jilaces l)lark niuNbes of bitumen, which float on the surface, somewhat resembling headless bulls in appearance and size." As regards the stinking properties of the waters, Lieut. L)Tich, while encamped at Engedi, noticed " a strong smell of sulphuretted hydrogen," also " a fetid sulphureous odour in the night." He, however, adds elsewhere : ** Although the water was greasy, acrid, and disagreeable, it was perfectly inodorous." The malodour doubtle^ anses from the gases given out at the springs which lie along the shore. - "Bi;(hai»h Zughar," writes Idrlst, "is also called Buhairah Sftd(liA and GhdmOr, and these last were two of the cities of LOt, which Allah overwhelmed, so that the place of them became the Stinking Lake. It is also known as the Dead Sea, because there is nothing in it that has the breath of life, neither fish nor beast, nor :iny other creature, of the kinds found in other stagnant and moving waters. The waters (of the Dead Sea) are warm, and of a disagreeable odour. There ply on the lake small ships whii h make the voyage of these parts, and carry oN er corn and various sorts of dates from /ughar and Ad Darah to Anha (Jericho), and the other provinces of the Ghaur. The Dead Sea measures 60 miles in length by 12 miles in the breadth." i ^d., 3.) The foul odour of the lake," says Yakiit, "Js^xtremely noxious, and in certain years the miasma is blown across the land, and causes destruction to all living creatures, human and others. By this all the neighbouring villages are depopulated for a time ; then other people come there who do not have a care for their lives, and these settle in the lands once more: It is an accursed lake, for nothing grows there. When anything falls into its waters it becomes useless. Thus fire-wood is spoilt, and such drift-wood as is thrown up on the shore will not kindle; Ibn al Fakth says that anyone who falls into its waters cannot sink, but remains floating about till he dies." (Yak., i. 516 : iii. 822 ; Mar., i. 132.) Dimashki writes : '* The people have many o])inions concernnig tiie disappearance of the waters (of the Dead Sea). Some say tliat its waters have an e.xit into a country alar ott, whose lands they Digitized by Google SYRIA AUD P ALUS! IN E, 67 inrigate and fertilize, and here the waters may he drunk. This countr)', they report, lies at a distance of two months' j aiiiey. Others say ihai the soil all round the lake heinj^ extremely hot, and havinf^ beds ol ilaming sulphur beneath, ihcrc never ecase to nsc vapours, and these, causing the water to evaporate, keep it to a certain level. Others, again, say there is an exit through the earth whereby its waters join those of the Retl Sea ; and others again attinn it has no l>ottoni, but that there is a passage leading down to the licliemoth (who supports the earth). But Allah knows best the truth of all this ! It is from this lake that they get the asphalt. No living creature inhabits it, and no plant grows on its border."^ (Dim., 108.) Buhaimk TadarixyaA (the I^ke of Tiberias). — In Mukaddasi's days, as wilt be mentioned below (Chapter VJIL, Ta^n^'ak}, the lake was covered with boats carrying the trade and products tthe viUages along its shores. "The Lake of Tabariyyah," writes YSkOt, "is about 12 miles long by 6 broad. It is like an immense pool, surrounded by the mountains. Many streams pour into it, and the city of Tabariyyah stands on its (western) shore. It lies about 50 miles distant from Jerusalem. The Greater (or Upper) Jordan flows into it, as also the streams coming down from the Nabulus district. Out ot the lake flows a great stream, called the lesser (or Lower) Jordan, which, alter watering tiie (ihaur, pours into the Stinking Sea by Jericho. In the middle of the I^ke of Tiberias is a projecting rock, which they say ii> the tomb of Solomon, the son of David. Kow, the sinking together of the waters of the Kake of Tiberias wiU be a sign of the coming of the Antichrist, called Ad Dajjal. It is related further that, when its waters have disappeared, one of the people of VajQj and MajOj (Gog and Magog) will say, * Verily, there is water there beyond,' and then they will all march on towards Jerusalem. Afterwards Jesus will appear, standing on the Rock, called As Sakhrah, being surrounded by all true hdieversy and to them He will preach. Then a man of the Jurhum tribe — or of Ghassan, as some say— will go out against the p>eople of YaiQj and Majdj, and they will be routed and utterly dispersed." ) (Yak., i. 515; Mar., i. 131.) 5—2 Digitized by Google €8 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, " liuhairah Tahnriyvah," snys Ahu 1 Fida in 1321. 'Mies at the upper end of the Ghaur. Into it flows the Jordan, ca^kid Nahr ash Shari'ah, coming down from the Buhairah fi^niy^. \The lake is called after 'iabari37ah, which is a town now in ruins, on the south-western shore thereof. )The circumference of the lake is two days' march, and its surface is quite bare of reeds." Bukairak JCadas^ <nr Buhairah Bdmyds,—ThQ Hiilab Lake, called in the Bible the Waters of Meroni, is referred to in the early Arab geographers either as the lake of Kadas, from Kadas (Kadesh Naphthali), on the height west of it ; or as the Lake of Baniyas (Paneas, Csesarea Philippi), the city lying some distance to the north. Mukaddasi, in 985, speaks of it as "a small lake, lying about an hour distant from Kadas, the watL-rs of wliich flow into the I*ike of Tiberias. In order to form the lake, they have built a wonderful embankment of masonry aloriL: the river, confining the water to its bed. Along the shore are thickets of the Halfa-reed. which gives the people their livelihood, for they weave nints and twist ropes tlierefrom. In this lake are numerous kinds of fish, especially that called the Butuii^ which was brought here from Wasit (in Mesopotamia), that town of numerous -clients.** (Muk., 161.) It is to be noted that the Halfi reed here mentioned is, with- out doubt, the PapyrussAntiquorum, called, by the FallShtn of the present day, BStbAr,) (Cf. Canon Tristram Fauna and FHora of JPiaksfine^ P. E. F., p. 438,) I^ne^ however, in his Dictionary (s. V. Ifalfd)^ states that the botanical name of this reed is Fwi Muftiflora, or F, Cynasufvides, The " BunmV* according to Berggren {Guide Arahe Vulgaire\ is at the present day the name for the carp, which fish, he says, abounds in the Sea of Galilee and in the Euphrates. Sir R. Burton, however, in a note to vol. viii., p. 187, of his translation of the Thousand and One Xii^/ifs. sa\s the *' Bunni is the Cyprinus Binni (Forsk), a fish somcwliat larger than a barbel, with lustrous, silvery scales and delicate flesh. " Buhairah Baniyas/' says Abu-1 Fida, ** lies near the town of (A. P., 39.) Digitized by CoogI SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 69 ♦ Btniyas, which is in the T>aiiuiscus Province. It is a lake, sur- rounded by lowlands, and covered with reeds. Into it flow a number of streams from the mountains round. The river Jordan, called Ash Shari'ah, flows out of it, and falls into the i^ke of Tabariyyah." (A. F., 40.) Btihairah al AfarJ. -Thc Damascus i^kcs are called by Yakut Buhairah al Marj, ** the Meadow l^kes." "They lie to the east of Damascus, and five leagues distant, across the (ihautah, near the plain called Marj Rahit. The overflow of the Damascus rivers (the Barada and others) goes into them." (Yak., i. 516 ; Mar., i. 13a.) Btihairah al BikA'.--\\\Q lake in the plain of Ca:lo Syria is called Buhairah al Bika by Abu-I Fida. It is a sheet of stagnant water, full of thickets and reeds, lying, at the distance of a day's journey, to the west of Ba'albakk." (A. F., 40.) It is to be noted that this lake does not now exist, its waters having been drained off. On the margin of the Paris MS. of Abu-I Fidd is the following curious note : *' The Lake of the Biki was a lowland, covered with reeds and osiers, which they used for making mats. It lay in the middle of tbe Bika' Plain of Ba'albakk, between Karak NOh and 'Ain al Jarr. The Amir Saif ad Din Dunkuz bought it for himself from the public treasury, and cleared the land of water by digging a number of channels, which drew off its waters into the Fiiany River. He then established here over twenty villages. Their crops were more rich than can be estimated or desc ribed, of such products tnrlons and cuc umbers. The j>cople gained great sums, and a rieii livelihood. They planted here trees to produce limber, and built mills. I he person who had urged Dunkuz to do all this was 'Ala ad Din ibn Salj, a native of those parts. When Al Malik an Nasir (Sultan of Egypt) laid bands on Dunkuz, he took most of these villages from him, and gave them in fief to the Syrian Amirs, and but little remained to Dunkuz or his heirs." This Dunkuz was Governor of Syria from a.d. 1320 to 1339. (See Abu-1 Fid4's Chronicle, under the year 740 a.h.) Bmhaimh Kadas^ or Buhairah Hims. — ^The I^ke of Hims is also called Buhairah Kadas, after the Northern Kadesh. It lies," say:> Vikftt, *^ south-west of, but near, Hims, and towards the Jabal Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. I.ubnan (Lebanon mountains). It is 12 miles loni? and 4 miles broad. The streams of the surrounding hills pour dinvn into it, and their waters go to swl U the river 'Asi (Orontcs), which flows out of it. On this river lie Hamah and Shaizar." (Yak., i. 516 ; Nlar., 1. 132.) ( "Buhairah Kadas," says Abu-I Fida, " is also called the I^ke of Hims. Its length trom north to south is about a third of a march, and its breadth is the length of the dyke, which we shall now describe. This dyke has been thrown across the river Orontes, and forms the northern border of the lake. It is built of stone, of the construction of ancient times, being attributed to Alexander the Great. In the middle of the dyke, and on it, are two towers of black stone. The length of the dyke, from east to west, is 1,287 its breadth is 18} ells. The dyke hems In this great mass of water, and were it to go to ruin, the waters would rush out, and the lake would become a river, and no longer exist This lake lies in a plain-country, about a day's journey to the west of Hims. They catch much fish there." (.\. F., 40.) Buhairah al Afamiyyah (the lakes of Apaniea). — "These,** writes .Vhu-l Kida, in 132T, "consist of a numl)er of lagoons {BiiCthah) divided one from another l)y beds of rushes, with low- lands covered by reeds. The largest of these launons forms two lakes -one to the south, tlie other to the nortli. The waters thereof are derived from the river Orontes, which flows into, the swamp on the south side, forming the lagoons. The river afterwards flows out again from the northern border of the swamps and lowlands. It is the southern of these two lakes which is more properly called the I.^ke of Af&miyyah. Its width is of about half a league, its depth is less than the height of a man, but its bottom is so miry that a man cannot stand up in it. On all sides and all over its surface are reeds and willows, and in the middle there is a thicket of reeds and papyrus {bara^\ which prevents the eye from seeing the whole of it at once, for a great part of it is masked thereby. On these lagoons there live all kinds of birds, such as swans (TYmma^t) and the species called Ai Ghurairah (?) and San^^h, and pelicans {Al fiajA'ah) and cranes {A/ luhizz). Also l>irds that Iced on fish, such as the species Digitized by SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 71 called Aljalthif) and Al Ahyadduiydi (or white-feathered fowls), and other such aquatic birds. In no other lagoons of which I have knowledge are there so many kinds of birds as here. In spring-time these lagoons are so crowded with yellow water-lilies {NUufar) that the whole surface is hidden thereby, and the water is as though covered hy a veil from end to end, formed of their leaves ami iiowers. The boats thread their way through tlieiii. "The seeoiid great lagoon, which is to the north of the first, is ^eparnied from it by the marshy land covered with reeds, through which runs a wntenvay, whereby boats go from the southern to the northern lagoon. This nurthcrn lagoon forms part of the district of Hisn Barziyah. It is known as the l^ke of the Christians {Bukairah an Nasard) ; for there are Christian fishermen who live here in huts built on piles, in the northern part of the lagoon. This lake is four times larger than the Aflmiyyah I^ke. In the middle of the Lake of the Christians the dry land appears. Water-lilies grow all along its northern and southern banks ; and there are here also water-birds like what has been described above. There is here the eel called Al Ankaiis, These lagoons lie to the west, bearing somewhat to the north of the town of Af&miyyah» and at no great distance therefrom." (A. F., 40.) BukairaA AnMiyyaJk (the Lake of Antioch).*— ''This lake^" says Yakftt, "lies at a distance of three days' journey from Anlioch. It is of sweet water, and in length about 20 miles, while its breadth is 7 miles. The lake lies in the territory known as Al 'Amk, 'the lowland.' " (Yak., i. 514 ; Mar., i. 131.) " Kuhairah Antakiyyah,'" says Abu-1 FidA. "lies between Antakiyyah. Baghras and Harim, and occupies the plain ( (nmlry called Al 'Amk. It l)elongs to the district of Halab (Aleppo), and is situated about twelve days' journey to the west thereof. Into this lake flow three rivers coming from the north. The easternmost of these is ( ailed the Nahr 'Ifrin ; the westernmost, which nms under Darbassak, is called An Nalur al Aswad, 'the Bburk River and the third, which flows between the first two, is called the Nahr Yaghrl Yaghr& is the name of a village on its banks» the population of which is Christian. The circumference * KoowB at the present dajr as Ak Denix. Digitized by Google 72 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. of the lake is about a day's journey. It is covered with reeds^ and there are fish and birds here the like to which we have mentioned in describing the I^e of AfSUniyyah. The three rivers aforesaid — namely, the Nahr al Aswad, the Yaghra, and the 'IfHn — come together * to form a single stream before they fall into the lake on its northern shore. And from the huuthern end a river flows out wliirh joins the Orontes below the Jisr al Hadid (the Iron Bridge), which lies ahout a mile above Antakiyyah. I he lake lies to the north of Antakiyyah." (A. F., 41.) Buhairah al y<i^/ira.- -.\ lake mentioned by Yakdt, probably one of the small lakes found to the north-east of the l^ake of Antioch.t *' It lies," says Yakfit, " between Antioch and the Thughiir (or P'rontier Fortresses), and collects into it the waters of the river 'Asi (the Orontes), of the Nahr Ifrin and the Nahr al Aswad. These two last come down from the neighbourhood of Mar'ash. It is called also Buhairah as SallQr— which last is the Ed, called also Ai Jini — by reason of the number of these fishes found in its water/' (Yak., i. 516 ; Mar., i. 132.) Buhairah ai Badaih,^'* This,** says Yikfit, 'Ms a lake near Mar'ash, lying towards the Greek countiy. Its beginning is near the village of Ibn Ash Shft, 12 miles from Al Hadath in the direction of Malatyah. The lake extends thence to Al Hadath, which is a strongly fortified castle of those parts.** (Yak., i. 514; Mar., i. 131.) MOUNTAINS. A/ Ti'ir — *''!'ur," says Alni-I Fida, ''in the Hebrew ian^^iiage means * mountain in general, but the name has passed to designate certain mountains in particular. Thus Tftr Zaita (the Mount of Olives) is the hill near Jerusalem, where, according to tradition, 70,000 prophets died of hunger. TAr is also the special name of the mountain above Tiberias (Mount Tabor). The position of * Thb is no longer the case, according to the present maps*. The Nahr al Aswad, called at the prest nt ,lay in Turkish, Kara Sou, meaning hkewisc *' HIack River." flovw uitu ihc Lake of Ak Deniz on the north, while the 'Ifrin, or 'Afrln, lluws in by a separate mouth from the east. See above, pp. 60 and 62. f Presumably not identical wiih the " Lake of Anttocb,** the description of which is given in the Ambic text two pages previously. Digitized by GoogI SYRIA AND PALESTINE. n Tilr SinU (Mount Sinai) is the subject of discussion. Some say it is the mountain near Ailah» and others that it is a mountain in S>Tia ; and they say that it is called Sind on account of its stones, or else on account ot tlic trees that j^ow tliere.* Tdr Harftn (Moimt Hor) is the name ot a high nKiUuL.uii which rises inthe( ountry south of Jerusalem. The tomb of Aaron is on its summit. ' (A. F., tv). ) Jur Sma {Mount Sinai). — "Tflir Sma," writes Mukaddasi, " lies not far from the Bahr al Kulzum (the Red Sea). One goes up to It from a certain village called Al Amn,t which same is the place where Moses and the children of Israel encamped. There are here twelve springs of fairly sweet water, and thence up to ^ Sinai is two days' march. (The Christians have a monastery (/%»>) in Mount Sinai, and round it are some well cultivated fields^ and there grow here olive-trees, said to be those mentioned by Allah in the Kurftn (chap, xxiv., ver. 35), where it is written concerning tha^ ' blessed tree, an olive neither of the east nor of the west* And the olives from these trees are sent as presents to king^':) (Muk., 179.) ^'Jabal at Ti^r," says Idrisi, <*is reached from Far&n (Paian). It ties close to the (Red) Sea, and the mountain-chain stretches parallel thereto, and between it and the sea is a road that is much traversed. It is a high mountain into which you i^o up by stej)s, and at its summit is a mosque where there is a well of stagnant water, fr in which those who come and go may drink. " (Id., 2.) "At i ur, or Tfir Sina," says YakCit, "is a mountain near Madyan (Midian), where Trod spake with Moses the second time, after he had come out of Hgyi>t with the Children of Israel. The name 'Tdr Sina' is of the language of the Nabatheans. It is a mountain covered with plants and trees, and is an extension of Che range above Ailah." (Yak., iii. 557 ; Mar., iL 214.) 730r HArUn {Jdount Hor). — "A high and sacred mountain/' I. * Sttoley, <Si>Mf and Palestime^ p. 17 (ed. of 1877), sUtes that "the most prolnbte nrigin even of the Mdeot ' Sinai ' ift the Seneh or acacia, with which, as we know, it then abounded "—that is, in Biblical times. f Ptwsibly an Arab cornjption of the name of Elim, wlurc the Israelites ctTcampcd Ixfi.re cominy "into the wilderness of Sin, which is l>elwecn Elim and Stitai,' Exoil. xv. 27. Digitized by Google 74 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, says YdkOt, lying to the south of Jerusalem. Hftrftn (Aaron) went up into it with his brother MOs& (Moses), but did not return. Then the children of Israel accused Moses of having slain hitn, hut he showed them a hicr nn a plateau in the mountain -top, with the body of Harun upon it, i'he place was called after him."* (Yak., iii. 559; Mar., ii. 215.) The historian Mas'Odi, as early as 943 a d., writes: (* Aaron died and was buried in jahal Madb (Moab) among the mountains " of the Sharah district, that lie in the direction of Sinai. His tomb is celebrated. It stands in an Adite (antique) cavern, in which on certain nights is heard a mighty sound, terrifying to all living creatures. Others say Aaron was not buried underground, but was merely laid in this cavern. There are many strange accounts given by those who have visited this place, and who describe it" (Mas., i. 94.)/ // ' / Ti^r Zaifd, or /ada/ Zattk \tht Mount of Olim).-^ A holy mountain," says Y&kOtf^ overhanging Jerusalem and to the east The W&dt Jahannum divides it from the city. In this wtdt is the 'Ain Sulwin (Siloam), and across the wftdt the ^Bridge as Sirftt shall be stretched. On the mount Omar prayed The tombs of 70,000 prophets who died here are to be seen in this mount, and from it Jesus ascended into heaven. ' (Yak., iii. 558 ; Mar , ii. 21 5.) Jabal ash Sharah. This district lies to the south of the Balka. Behind it is the desert, which is now inhabited by the settled Fellahin " (A. F., 228.) Jabal al Khamr. — ^" These mountains," WTites VakQt, "are men- tioned in the Traditions of the Prophet, and are said to he the mountains of Jerusalem, so-called from the (juantity of wine ijihamr) that is grown here." (Yak., ii. 21 ; Mar., i. 238.) At T&r {Ebal ami Gerizim),-^'' This," says Yakfit, " is the holy mountain above NAf)ulus, to which the Samaritans go in pilgrimage^ The Jews hold it also in high respect, for they say Abraham was here commanded to sacrifice Isaac. The name is mentioned in the Pentateuch.** (Yak., iii. 557 ; Mar., iL 214.) Jabal at T&r (Tahor), — ^This name is mentioned incidentally * This legend is given in full in G. Weil's Biblisihc Legendcn der Mmel" manner, p. 185. It is derived from the Mtdradi. Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE. 75 by Ibn Jubair in T185 as that of the mount situated not far from I ilx;rias ; he, however, did not vj^i^^t. (I. J., 313 ) "At Tiir labor." says \'aki*it, '"is a mountain above Tabariy- yah in the Jordan Province. It lies four leagues from Tabariyyah. On its summit is a spacious and strongly built church. A fair is held lliere evcrv year. ' Al Malik nl Mu'athnm 'fsa, the son of (Saladin s brother) W Malik al 'Adil .^bu Bakr, built there a stronir castle, and kept his treasures in this place. But when in 615 (i3iS) the Franks came from beyond the sea to try and retake Jerusalem, he ordered this castle to be dismantled, and so it remains now."J (Yak., iiL 557 ; Mar., ii. 215.) At TOr (Tabor) All of Herat confounds with Sinai, for he says Moses received the law in this mountain, which is near Tiberias." (A. H., Ocf. MS., f. 31.) Ja^/ *Amt7aA.~'The Jabal 'Amilah in Upper Galilee is the one refened to in the following notices. A second mountainous region, also called Jabal 'Amilah, but lying north of Damascus, is that of which Y&kiit (a.d. 1225) speaks under the heading of Kafar LdthA (sec below, Part II.). Jabal 'Amilah." savs Mukaddasi in 985, "is a mountainc^us district where are many imc villages, and here arc grown grapes and other fruits, and oh'vcs. There are also many springs. The rain waters its fields. The district overhangs the sea, and adjoins the l,el)anon mountains." (Muk., 162.) This district is called after the tribe of the Hani 'Amilah, who were settled here in the early days of the Muslim conquest. The district corresponds roughly with Upper Galilee. During the period of the Crusades the tribe migrated north, and the region between Damascus and Hims then took the name of jabal 'Amilah, as is mentioned by Y&kilti and further descritied in the following account M ly 2 i*'In the Sa&d-^P^nce^'* says Dtmashki in 1300, ^'is the district of the Jabal 'Amtkh, full of Tineyards, olives, carob, and terebinth trees. Its pofpulation are of the Riliidite and Im&mtte sects. Also in tfiis province is Jabal Jaba'* with a * The name is identical with the BiblicAl Gibeah, meaning ** humped,'' a OMDisioii nuDe Uxt hiUt. See Stanley, Simai and PtiMuu^ Appendix, § 25. Digitized by Google 76 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, like population. It is a high mountain tract full of springs^ and vineyards, and fruits. Near it is Jabal Jaztn, with spnngs and fruit-lands in plenty; also Jabal Tibntn, which has a casde and districts^ and lands round it. This district is also inhabited by RMdites and Imimites. Jabal Bakt'ah is named after the village called Al Bakt'ah, where are running waters and excellent quinces. In this district are also many other villages with olive- grounds in plenty, and fruits and vineyards. Jabal az Z&bfid overhangs Safad. Az Zabfid is a village, and there are many other villages in the l ouniry round. The people of these villages are of the Druze, Hakimite, and Amrite sects." (Dim., 211.)^ "The Jahal 'Amilah," writes Abu-l lida, "runs down east of the coast as far south as Tyre. The fortress of Ash Shakif (Arnon) is liere, which Haibars took from the Franks, under whom its peoi)le formerly lived." (A.F., 228.) /al?a/ -"This," says Abu-l Fida in 1321, " is the district lying south-east of Jabal 'Amilah. The populations of both were rebellious until Us&mah (one of Saladin's Amirs) built the fortress of 'Ajldn to curb and bring them into subjection. This last is a very strong fortress, dominating the Ghaur (of the Jordan). All its territory is very fertile, and it is covered with trees, and well- watered by streams." (A.^F., 228. See also under 'Ajldn. ) /oM Siddikd. — These mountains," writes Mukaddasi in 985, *Mie between Tyre, Kadas, and Sidon. Here may be seen the tomb of Siddlk&. ^ On the middle day of the (lunar) month of Sha'b&n, it is the custom for great numbers of the people of the towns round here to make a pilgrimage to this tomb, and the Lieutenant of the Sultan also is present. It so happened that once when I was sojourning iii iliis pari of tlie counU), upon the Friday in the middle of Sha ban, the Kadi Abul Kasim ibn Al Al>bas called \i\yox\ me to preach before the congregation. In my sermon I urged them to the restoration of this mosque, and with siu cess, for afterwards this wa^ a< compiished, a piil]iit being also erected therein. I have heard it related that when a dog in pursuit of any wild animal comes to the boundaries of this sanctuary, he there and then stops short ; and there are other stories told of a like kind" (Muk., 188.) Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, r 77 Jabal al Jauhin (the Hills of the Jaiilan). — " These," says Mukaddasi, "lie on the opposite h:ind to the Lebanon mountains (across the Jordan), over towards Damascus. Here it was that I met Aim Ishak al Balluti (him of the oak tree), who was accom- panied by forty men, his disciples, all of them dressed in woollen gaiments (after tlie mannorof the ascetics). 'I'hese people have a mosque, in which they assemble for prayer. I found Abu IshSk to be a very learned and pious jurisconsult of the sect of SufyAn ath ThOrt. These people feed themselves with acorns — the fruit being of the size of the date, but bitter. They split it in half, and make it sweeter by allowing it to soak in water. It is then dried and ground in a mill. In this country (of JaulSn) also grows desert-barley, which the people mix with ^the acorn-meal, and ' fabai al fatil — "The inhabitants of these mountains," says \ a kflbrTn 091. " are Arabs of the 'Amilah tribe." (Yb., 1 14.) •*The jabal il I. >a\> \ akut. "lie un the coast of Syria, ex- tending up towards Hims. The dwelling-place of NQh (Noah) was in Jabal al Jalil, near Hims, at a villnge called Sahr, and it is >aid the Flood began to |)our out here. The Jabal al Jalil extend to riear I )aniasriis also, and 'Isa (Jesus) jireached here, promising that this district should never suffer famine." j (Yak., ii. no; Mar., i. 263.) Jabal Bani HilaL — "These," writes YakCIt, "are the mountains 6L the Haur&n Province of Damascus, There are in this district many villages ; among them is the village of Al Malikiyyah, where is shown a wooden platter said to have belonged to the Prophet*' (Y&k., il 22 ; Mar., i. 239.) Jabal LubnAn (the I^banon mountains). — •** These," says Mukaddasi, *Mie contiguous to (and to the north of) the Jabal Sid- dlkii, running all along and |xirallel to the coast, Irom Sidon up to Tripoli& Their slopes are covered with trees, and fruits fit for eating abound. Everywhere among the Lebanon mountains occur little springs of water, where people who come here to pray have made for themselves houses of reeds or rushes. They live on the edible fruits, and al>o gain money by cutting what i.s known a> die • Persian reeds,' and the myrtles, and other like shrubs, which they Digitized by Google PALESJWB UNDER THE MOSLEMS. carry into the towns for sale. Bui they do not obtain much "The J^ebanon mountains," says Ibn al 1 akih, *" lx;long to Damascus, and ihey are inhabited l)y iKTinits and anrhoriics. There grow here all kinds of fruits and vegctai)les, and every- where are springs of fresh water. The.se mountains extend as far as the Greek country. Tlie apples of the Lebanon are very wonderful, in that when they lirst come from the Lebanon district they are sweet mountain apples without any flavour orsavtnir, but after having been set in the water of the Nahr al Balikh, they immediately acquire a fine flavour." (L F., 112, ( "The Lebanon mountains,*' writes Ibn Jubair in 1185, are full of the castles of Ismailians (Assassins). This range is the bound* ary between the Muslims and the Franks, for beyond them to the north lie Ant&kiyyah and Al L&dhikiyyah, and other towns, which are in the hands of the Christians. May Allah return these into the hands of the Muslims !** } (L J., 257.) '' The mountains of the Lebanon overhang Hims," savs ^'akul. "This range has its origin at Al "Arj, between Makkali and Al Maditiah, and extends thence till it r«'aches S\n.\. i hat part which is in Filastiu is called Jabal al Hamal ; in the Jordan T*ro vince the range is called Jal)al al JalH : at Damasci^, the Sanir mountains ; near Halab, Hamah, and Hims, it is the Jabai I.ubnan. This same range extends to Antakiyyah and Al Massissah, and there it is called Jabal al Lukkam. Further north again they go by Malatyah Sumaisat and Kalikal^ even as far as the Bahr al K|\azar (the Caspian), and there they are called Al Kaik. In the Jabal Lubnan is a most beautiful district belonging to Hims, and here are grown fruits in quantities, and arable fields are seen such as are found nowhere else. They say that in the Lebanon district there are spoken seventy dialects, and no one people understands the language of the other, except through an interpreter." (Yak., ii. 110, iv. 547 ; Mar., i. 363, iii. 5.) "On the slopes of the Lebanon mountains,'' according to Dimashki, "there grow more than ninety kinds of plants and herbs that spring up here naturally without cultivation, flowering all the Digitized by GoogI SYRIA AND PAHl^HNE, 79 year round, to the profit of those who gather them. Also many fr^ju and other trees. ' (l)ini., 199.) \ "The Lebanon mountains," Ibn Batulah notes in nis Diary, " are some of the greenest in the world. There are all sorts of fruits gruwn here, and springs of water orcur frequently, antl siiade is found in summer, I his regiyn is celebrated for the anchorites and holy men who dwell here/y) (I. B., i. 184.) /adai an Nwairiyyah. — "frhese," writes Abu4 Fid^, "are cele- brated mountains lying near Halab. The Nusairiyyah are a sect caUed after Nusair, the freedman of 'All ibn Abu Talib.* They bold that 'AH stopped the sun on its course, as did Joshua, the son of Nun ; and that a crane spoke to him, as did one to Jesus. They most of them hold 'Ali for the divinity." (A. R, 232, from Ibn Sa'id.)) Jabai sdiAr,—^^T^^ says Y&kOt, **is the name for the mountains lying between Hims and Ba'albakk, along the high road. On their summit is the Castle of Kala'ah Santr. The range extends west, and east to Al Kariyatain and Salamiyyah. It ties east of Hamdh. Jabal al Jalil is opposite to it, lying along the coast. Between the two stretches the wide jjkun in which lie Hims and I lamah, and many other towns. This mountain tract of Samr forms a Rurah (or d'>lri( t), and its capital is Huwwarin, which is Kariyatain. The range is ro-terminou?i with the Lebanon on the rii^ht, and stretches thenc e northwards, even as far as tin lUlad al Khazar (the region of the Caspian). On the left (soutlnvards and to the east), the range travels on and extends even as far as A I Madtnah. Jabal Sanir is only the name of this mountain tract between Hims and Ba'albakk, and is thus but a small portion of this long range of mountains." (Vak., iii. 170; Mar., ii. 61.) "Jabal ath Thalj (Uhe Mountain of Snow,' Hermon), Jabal Lubolln, and Jabal Lukkim, all these mountains," says Abu-1 FicU, ''are continuous^ and run one into the other, forming but a single range going from south to north. The southern point of the chain is near Sftfid. Jabal ath Thalj (Hermon) runs up north and passes * This is a mistake. They take their name froin Ntuhamniad ibn Xusair, who 6fran<he'! at the cn^l of the ninth century A.D. .Sec Haarbcucker's translatiou oi S^aArastam, 1. 210. Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, i)amascus. To the north of this the mountain takes the name of Jabal Sanir. The spur ul ilie chain which overhanj^s Damascus is called Jabal Kasiyun. After passing Damascus the chain goes west of Ba'albakk. and the rangt- over against Ba all)akk is called the I^banon. After passing P.a alhakk it has to the cast of it Tarabulus of Syrin, and goes now by the name of Jabal 'Akkar, 'Akkar being the name of a fortress in the above-mentioned moun- tains. The chain then passes on north, and after Tardbulus reaches Hisn a! Akrad (the Kurd's Cattle). Here, in the same pataltel, lies Hims, at a distance of a day's journey to the west. Hence the range continues on northward, and passes the line of Ham&h, then Shaizar, then A£lmiyyah ; and the range, when it comes to be opposite these cities, goes by the name of Jabal al Lukk^m. When the parallel of A0miyyah is reached — the Jabal al Lukk4m lying to the west of that city — ^there begins another chain opposite the Jabal al Lukk&m, and running parallel with it northwards. Near AfUmiyyah this second range goes by the name of Jabal ShdhshabA, being called after a village of the name of ShahshabO, lying on the southern flank of the mountains. Jabal Shahshabft runs from south to north, passing to the west of Al Ma'arrah. Sarnun, and llalal) ; after this it bears to the west, and joins the mountains of the country of the Greeks. "As to the Jabal al Lukkam. li vever, this continues north- wards, and there is between it and the jabal Shahshabil a broad valley about half a day's march across, m which lie the lakes of Afamiyyah. The Jabal al Lukkam extends on northwards, passing by SihyOn, Ash Shughr and Bik^, and Al Kusair, till it reaches Antikiyyah* Here the mountain chain is- cut through, and opposite, beyond the valley, rise the mountains of Armenia. In {the valley) cutting across the chain runs the river 'Asi (Orontes), which falls into the sea at As Suwaidiyyah." (A* F., 68.) /ada/ ad Dartiyyah (the Druze Mountain). — ^ A continuation of the Lebanon chain," says Abu-l Fidi, '* in the direction of the valley, called W&d! at Taim. The chain goes also by the name of the Jabal Kasruw&n. The people are of the Ibldiite sect, as are also the people of the Lebanon/' (A. K., 229, quoting Ibn Said.) /ffA»/5/>t/tM.— '*This»*' says Abu-l Fidi, in 132 1, **isthemoun- Digitized by Google SYRIA AND PALESTINE, 8l tain chain where the Lsmaihans have tlieir chief ijuarters and their fortressei*, such as Mas) at, Al Kahf, and Al Khawabi. These fortresses lie in the mountains that run down along the coast over against the country between Hims and Hani.ih. Masyaf makes a trianu'lc with Hims and Hamah ; the east i)oini is Hamah, the north-west is Masyaf, and the south-west is Hims, they being each about a day's journey the one from the other." (A. F., 229 ; from Ibn Sa'id.) Jabal al KhalL — " A district," says Abu-1 Fidi, *' lying between Hims and the sea. There are here a great number of the Ib4hite sect (who believe everything to be licit). When they can they sell the Muslims as slaves to the Franks.** (A. P., 229.) Jahal as Summ&k,'-^'TYa&,'* says Yikftt, "is a great mountain r^on in the district of Western Halab, It is covered with towns, ▼illages, and castles, all inhabited by people of the Ismailian sect. The district lies for the most part in the government of Halab. Jabal as Summ&k is so called from the Summflk (Sumac) tree, which abounds here. Sesame, cotton, and apricots are grown here, and there is running water ; also gardens in plenty and all kinds of trees and fruits. " (Vak., ii. 21 ; Mar., i. 238.) Jaiml al (" the Bald Mountain '). — "'The name ot the niouniains. says Vakiit, " in Syria that are seen from the sea, overhanging the districts round AntAkiyyah, Al Ladhikiyyah, and Tarabulus. The range is of unknown height." (Vak., L 336 ; Mar., L 195.) Jabal Akra' is the Mons Casius of the Romans, south of Antioch. Ibn BatOtah writes that it is one of the highest moun- tains of Syria. You see it first of all others coming from the sea. The Turkomans dwell on its slopes (a.d. 1355), and there are loany streams and springs that flow down from it'* (I. B., L 183.) Jabai LtikkAm. — ^These are more particularly the eastern and northern parts of what was anciently known as Mount Amanus. All the Syrian mountains north of the Lebanon, however, are apparently included under this general name. (See the preceding pa^c.) The jabal LukkAm are often identical with the Jabal bikkin of the later Arab geographers. "Jabal al Lukkam," says Mukaddasi, "is the most populous 6 Digitized by Google 8s PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. mountain region of Syria, also the largest in area and the most ric h in fruit-trees. \t the present day, however (a.d. 985), all this country is in the liands of the Armenians. T arsus lies beyond these mountains, and Antioch is on our side of them." (Muk., 188.) Istakhri and Ibn Haukal, writing in the earlier part of the tenth century, give the following: account of this range : "The Jabal al Lukk&tn divide the Syrian from the Mesopotamian Frontier For- tressesi and the range extends north, for into the country of the Greeks — for 200 leagues even, as it is said. The range first appears in the lands of Islam, running down between Mar'ash, Al H4riiniyyah, and 'Ain Zarbah. The chain goes by the name of Jabal al Lukk&m as fiir south as Al L&dhikiyyah. Below this the mountains have, as far as Hims, the name of Jabal (the mountain of the tribes o() Bahr& and Tanukh. South of Hims the range is called the Lebanon (Jabal Lubnan), and to the south again they spread out all over Syria, until on the one hand they end on the shore of the Bahr Kulzum (the Red Sea), and on the other reach the Cairo hills called Al Mukattam." (Ts., 56 ; I. H., 108.) " The lal)al al Lukkdni," says Yakut, " are the mountains over- hanp;inL' Antakiy}^h, Al Massissah, Tarsus, and the other cities of the I hughClr (or Frontier Fortresses). The range extend.s north into the country to the Leo kings of Armenia." (Yak., iv. 364 ; Mar., iii. 17.) Digitized by Google JERUSALEM AD. 985-1052. According to the Arab Geo|B[rajjliers Scale 0 100 too 4&0 440Ykrd* •C, i. \ i Digitized by Google « CHAPTER III. JERUSALEM, Names of the Holy ( a ty— Ad vantages of Jerusalem— Fertility — Position — Territory of the Holy City. The Mosque al Aksd : The Prophet's Night Journey — The origin of the Mosque al Aksd- 'OmarV early builfling and that of *Abd al Malik — Earthquake of the year 130 ^746), ami restoration of the mosque by Al MftOtAr and Al Mahdi — The technical meaning of the term Afasfidt Of Mosque — Mukaddasi s description of the Aks;i in 985 — The Talisman n mI the Maksurahs — Earthquakes of 1016 and 1034— Inscriptions relating to repairs — Description or the AksA bv Nisir-i-Khusraa in 1047 — Dimenmmt of the mosque -The Cru.sades — The mosque j^iven over to the Templars — description by Idrisi and Ali of Iierat — Saladin's reconquest of Jerusalem and restoration of the Aksa in 1187 — Description by Mujir ad IMn in 1496— Modern mosque. V/u Dome of the Rock : The Rock — The dome built over it l)y 'Abd al Malik in 691 — Mr. Fergusson's theory disproved — 'Abd al Malik's great inscription — Al MamOn's inscription on the doors — DescripUon of Ae Dome by Ibii nl Fnktb in 903 Arrangement of the piers and pillars — IstAkhri and Ibn Haukal's description — That of Mukaddast, 98^ — The earthquake of 1016 and the inscriptions reoordini,' repairs— >N&str*i-Khtis- rau's visit in 1047— The fall of the great lantern in 1060— The Crusaders and the Tcmplum Domini — Teip|)!<- churches and Rafael's picture of the Sposaiido'-\^i\si% account in ii54--'Ali of Herat's in I173— The iron railing round the Rock, and other details— Pieces of the KocU taken by the Crusii'lcis a-- relics- Sala<Iin's restoration — 1 1 *s great inscription in the Dome— Il)n Baiutah's visit in 1355— Destruction of the Cupola by fire in 1448— SuyQti's description of the Footprint of the Prophet, the Cave, and other inatve!s — Mujtr ad Dtn*s measurements* jKKi sAi.rM is known to the Muslims by the names of Bait at Mukdddas or Bait al Makdis^ signifying " The Holy House"; or else simply as Al Kuds^ " The Holy " ; the latter bein^ the more common name at the present day. The ancient Heljrow name, " Yerushalaim/' was, however, well known to the Arabs, though not used, and Yakut mentions the forms Unshallunty Unshalumy also Shaliam^ as the variotis names of the Holy City in the days of the Jews. (Vak., i. 402 \ HL 315 ; iv. 590.) 6—1 Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. The Emperor Hadrian, after removing all the Jews from Jerusalem (a.d. 130), gave the town the name of ^3lia Capitolina the first part of this name was preserved in the Arabic as //iydf a name which, having no signification for the Arabs, gave rise to auiiicrous legends. Yakut writes : "It is reported on tlie authority of Ka'ab that the Holy City was called ///v(/ because Ih"ya was tlie name of a woman who built the city." (Yak., iv. 592.) Further, ///yd is said to mean Bait Allah (the House of God). xVud, again, //n d is .said to have been so called "after the name of its builder, who was Iliyil, son of Aram, son of Sam (Shem), son of Nuh (Noah), and he was the brother of Dimishk (Damascus), Hims (Emessa), Urdunn (Jordan), d&d Filastin (Palestine)." (Yak., i. 423, 424.) Jerusalem also was occasionally referred to in poetry as ^a/dtf meaning '*the court/' or royal residence," a word the Arabs had borrowed from the Latin palatium. Politically, Jerusalem was never the Muslim capital of the pro- vince (Jund) of Palestine, this being at Ar Ramlah. But the Holy City, containing within its precincts The Further Mosque, The Rock, and other Holy Places, was only held second in point of sanctity to the twin Holy Cities of the Hijjaz, Makkah, and Al Madinah, in the eyes of all ^e believers ; and Jerusalem, further, was to be the scene of the great gathering on the Last Judgment Day. Even in the days of its splendour, when Ar Ramlah was the capiLil of the south i)rovince, as Damascus was of the north, Istakhri and Ibn Haukal (tenth century) write : "The Holy City, is nearly as large as Ar Ramlah. It is a city perched high on the hills : and you have to go up to it from all sides. In all Jerusalem there is no running water, excepting what comes from springs that can be used to irrigate the fields, and yet it is the most fertile portion of Filastin." (Is., 56 ; LH., ill.) Mukadddsi (a.d. 985), as his name implies, himself a native of the Holy City, is loud in praises of the manifold advantages of Jerusalem. He writes : "The Holy City, Bait-^-Makdis, is also ^nown as Iliy^ and Al BaUt Among provincial towns none is larger than Jerusalem, and many capitals 4re^ in fact, smaller. Neither the cold nor the heat is excessive here, and snow falls but rarely. The K&di Abu-I Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 8S Kafiim, son of the KAcIi of the two Holy Cities of Mnkkah and Al Madinah, inquired of me onre conccniini; the climate of Jerusalem. I answered: * It is i)ct\vixt and between — neither very hot nor very cold.' Said he in reply : ' Just as is that of Paradise.' The buildings of the Holy City are of stone» and you will find nowhere finer or more solid construction. In no place will you meet with people more chaste. Provisions are most excellent here; the markets are dean, the Mosque is of the largest, and nowhere are Holy Places more numerous. The grapes are enormous, and there are no quinces to equal those of the Holy City. In J erusalem are all manner of learned men and doctors, and for this reason the heart of every man of intelligence yearns towards her. All the year round, never are her streets empty of strangers. As to the saying that Jerusalem is the most illustrious of cities — is she not the one that unites the advantages of This World and those of the Next? He who is of the sons of This World, and yet is ardent in the matters of the Next, may find there a nun ket fur his wares ; while he who would he of the men of the Next W orld, though his soul clings to the good things of This, he, too, may find them here : Further, Jerusalem is the pleasante>.t of places in the matter of climate, for the cold there does not injure, and the heat is not noxious. And as to her being the finest ( ily, why, has any seen elsewhere buildings finer or rleaner. or a Mosque that is more beautiful? And as for the Holy City l)ei^g the most productive of all places in good things, why, .Mlah— may He be exalted ! — has gathered together here all the fruits of the lowlands, and of the plains, and of the hill country, even all those of the most opposite kinds : such as the orange and the almond, the date and the nut, the fig and the banana, besides milk in plenty, and honey and sugar. And as to the excellence of the City ! why, is not this to be the place of marshalling on the Day of Judgment ; where the gathering together and the appointment will take place ? Verily Makkah and A) Madtnah have their superiority by reason of the Ka'abah and the Prophet — the blessing of Allah be up(^n tuin j.nd his family! — but, in truth, on the Day of Judgn^ont both cities will come to Jerusalem, and the excellencies of ihcm all will then be united. And as to Jerusalem being the most s^mcious Digitized by Google 86 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. of cities ; why, since all created things are to assemble there, what place on the earth can l)e more extensive than this ? " Still, Jerusalem has some disadvantages. Thus it is reported, as found written in the Torah (or Books) of Moses, that ' Jerusalem is as a golden basin filled with scorpions.' Then you will not find ' anywhere baths more filthy than those of the Holy City ; nor any- where the fees for the same heavier. Learned men are few, and the Christians numerous, and the same are unmannerly in the public places. In the hostelries the taxes are heavy on all that is sold ; there are guards at every gate, and no one is allowed to sell of the necessities of life except in the appointed places. In this city the oppressed have no succour ; the meek are molested, and the rich envied. Jurisconsults remain unvisited, and erudite men have no renown : also the schools are unattended, for there are no lectures. Everywhere the Christians and the Jews have the upper liand : and the mosque is void of either congregation or assembly of learned men." (Muk., i66, 167. The translation is somewhat condensed.) That the Christians and Jews had the upper hand in Jeni'^nlem in the century preceding the first Crusade is certainly a curious and noteworthy fact. In his introductory chapter Mukaddasi states that ''in Jerusalem no one can find either defect or deficiency. Wine is not publicly consumed, and there is no drunkenness. The city is devoid of houses of ill-fame^ whether public or private. The people, too^ are noted for piety and sincerity. At one time, when it became known that the Governor drank wine, they built up round his house a wall, and thus prevented from getting to him those who were invited to his banquets." (Muk., 7.) Mukadda.si further continues : " The territory of the Holy City is counted as all the country that lies within a radius of forty miles from Jerusalem, and includo inati) villages. I'or twelve miles the frontier follows the shore (of the Dead Sea) over against Sughar and Maab ; then for five miles it lies through the desert, and is in the district towards the south, even unto the country that lie^ l)eyond Al Kusaifah and the land that is over against it. And on tlie north the frontier reaches to the limits of Nabulus. This, then, is the land which Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 87 Allah— -may He be exalted I — has called blessed (Kuiin, xxi. 71); it is a country where, on the hills are trees, and in the plains fields that need neither irrigation nor the watering of rivers, even as the two men (Caleb and Joshua) reported to Moses, the son ul Ariirun, saying : ' We came on a land flowing with milk and honey.' I myself at times in Jerusalem have seen cheese selling at a sixth of a Dirham for the Rati, and sugar at a Dirliam the Rati ; and for that same sum you could obtain either a Rati and a half of . olive-oil, or four Ratls of raisins." (Muk., >73.) Taking the Dirham at tenpence, and the Syrian Rati at 6 lbs., we have cheese at about a farthing a pound, sugar at a penny three farthings a pound, olive-oil at about a shilling the gallon, and raisins at the rate of lb. for a penny. The great natural fertility of all the country round Jerusalem is constantly referred to by the Arab writers. Mukaddasi notes that ''in Palestine, during the summer-time, every night, when the south wind is blowing, dew falls, and in such quantities that the gutters of the Aks& Mosque are set to run.*' (Muk., 186.)* The position of Jerusalem crowning a hill-spur, and surrounded on three sides by deep gorges, seems to have struck alike both Eastern and Western pilgrims. The Arabs were accustomed to build their urcat cities in the valleys, or else in the plain-country, lor llie sake ol the streams. The Persian traveller Nasir-i-Rhu^rau, who reached Jerusalem on March 5, 1047, approached the Holy Cit>' by the northern road. He writes : *' .\fter we had continued our upward road some way from Kariyat-al-'Anab, a great plain opened out in front of us, part of which was stony, and part of it good soil ; and here, as it were, on the summit of the mountain, lay before our view Bait-al- Mukaddas (the Holy City). Now, the men of Syria, and of the * The following passage from //ic Iloiy Lattd and the Bihlt^ by Cunningham Geikie, D.D., may illustrate the exactn&>s of Mttkflddasi's observations : ** In Fftlcstine,*' Dr. Geikie writes, ** tbe bright skies caiue the heat of the day to vadiale very qufekly into space, sn that tl)c nights are as cold as the clay is the reverse. To this cohlness of the nighl-air, the intlispensahle waterini; of all |>lant-life is clue. The winds, lo.-nled with mnisiure. arc robbed of it as they p.xbs over the land, the cold nir conrkusuig ii into drops of water, jwhich fall io a gracious ram of miat on cvcty thirsty blade." 88 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. neighbouring parts, call the Holy City by the name of Kuds (the Holy) ; and the people of these provinces, if they are unable to make the pilgrimage (to Makkah), will go up at the appointed season to Jerusalem, and there perform their rites, and upon the feast-day slay the sacrifice, as is customary to do (at Makkah) on the same day. There are years when as many as twenty thousand people will be present at Jerusalem during the first days of the (pilgrimage) month of I)hu-1 Hijjah ; for they bring their children also with them, in order to celebrate their circumcision. Kvom all the countries of the Greeks, too, and from other lands, the Christians and the Jews come up to Jerusalem in great numbers, in order to make tlicir visitati(in of the Church (of the Resurrec- tion) and the synagogue that is there : and this great Church (of the Resurrection) at Jerusalem we shall describe further on in its proper place. (See Chapter V.) "The lands and villages round the Holy City are situate upon the hillsides ; the land is well cultivated, and they grow com, olives, and figs ; there are also many kinds of trees here. In all the country round there is no (spring) water for irrigation, and yet the produce is very abundant, and the prices are moderate. Many of the chief men harvest as much as 50,000 Manns weight (or about 16,800 gallons) of olive^il. This is kept in tanks and cisterns^ and they export thereof to other countries. It is said that drought never visits the soil of Syria. Jerusalem is a city set on a hill, and there is no water therein, except what falls in rain. The villages round liave springs of water, but the Holy City has no springs. The city is enclosed bv stron^:^ walls of stone, mortared, and there are iron gates. K m m i aoout the city there are no trees, for it is all built on the rock. Jerusalem is a very great city, and at the time of my visit it contained a population of some twenty thousand men. It has high, well built, and clean bazaars. All the streets are paved with slabs of stone ; and wheresoever there was a hill or a height, they have cut it down and made it level, so that as soon as the rain falls (the water runs off), and the whole place is washed clean. There are in the city numerous artificers, and each craft has a separate bazaar." (N. Kh., 23, 24.) Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 99 THE AKSA MOSQUE. The great mosque of Jerusalem, Al Masjid al Aksa, the " Further Mos(iiic," tlerivcs its name from the traditional Night Tourney of Muhammad, to which allusion is made in the words of the Ivuran (xvii. i) : " I declare the glory of Him who transported His servant by night from the Masjid al Haram (the Mosque at Makkah) to the Masjid al Aksd (the Further Mosque) at Jerusalem ** — ^the term '* Mosque " being here taken to denote the whole area of the Noble Sanctuary, and not the Main-building of the Aksi only, which, in the Prophet's days, did not exist. According to the received account, Muhammad was on this occasion mounted on the winged steed called Al Burlk^*'the Lightning " — and, with the angel Gabriel for escort, was carried from Makkah, first to Sinai, and then to Bethlehem, after which they came to Jerusalem. ** And when we reached Bait al Makdis, the Holy City,'" so runs the tradition, "we came to the gate of the mosque (which is the Haram Area), and here Jil)rail caused me to dismount. And he tied up Al Burak to a ring, to which the prophets of old had also tied their steeds. ' (Ibn al .\liur s Chronicle, ii. 37.) Entering the Haram :\rea by the gateway, afterwards known as the Gale of the Frojihet, Muhammad and Gabriel went up to the Sacred Rock, which of old times had Stood in the centre of Solomon's Temple ; and in its neighbour^ hood meeting the company of the prophets, Muhammad pro- ceeded to perform his prayer-))rostrations in the assembly of his predecessors in the prophetic office— Abraham, Moses, Jesus, and others of God's ancient apostles. From the Sacred Rock Muhammad, accompanied by Gabriel, next ascended, by a ladder of light, up into heaven ; and, in anticipation, was vouchsafed the sight of the delights of Paradise. Passing through the seven heavens, Muhammad ultimately stood in the presence of Allah, from whom he received injunctions as to the prayers his followers were to perform. Thence, after a while, he descended again to earth ; and, alighting at the foot of the ladder of light, stood again on the Sacred KoCk at Jerusalem. The return journey homeward was made after the same lashion — on the back of the Digitized by Google 90 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Steed Al Burftk^and the Prophet reached Makkah again before the night had waned* Such, in outline, is the tradition of the Prophet's Night Journey, which especially sanctifies the Rock and the Haram Area in the sight of al) true behevers. After the cai)itiilalion of Jcius-aicin to 'Omar in 635 (a.h 14), that Khaiit caused a mosque to be buili on wiiat was considered to be the ancient site of the Temple (or Masjid) of David. The traditional position of this site, 'Omar (as it is stated) verified, by the rc-discovery of the Rock — concealed under a dung- hill— from the description that had been given to him, 'Omar, by the Prophet, of the place where he had made his prayer- prostrations in Jenisaleni on the occasion of his Night-Journey. The traditional accoimts of 'Omar's discovery of the Rock will l)e given later on. It should, however, be here noted that none of the earlier Arab annalists (such as Bilidhuri, or Tabari) record any details of the building, by *Omar, of the Aksd. Mosque. In the early days of Islam — namely, under 'Omar and his successors, down to the setdement of the Khalilate, in the famUy of the Omayyads, at Damascus — mosques were, without doubt, con- stnicted of wood and sun-dried bricks, and other such perishable materials. Hence, of the buildings erected in 'Omar's days, pro- bably but little remained, half a century later, to be incorporated in the magnificent stone mosque erected by tlie i^rdcrs of the Omayyad Klialif, 'Abd al Malik, about the year 690 (a.h. 72). It seems probable, also, that this latter Khalif, when he l>egan to rebuild the Aksa, made use of the materials which lay to hand in the ruins of the great St. Mary Church of Justinian, which must originally have stood on the site, approximately, on which the Aksa Mosque was afterwards raised. Possibly, in the substructures still to be seen at the south east corner of the Aksa, we have the remains of Justinian's church, described by Procopiust as erected * Further details of the traditional account of this celebrated Night Journey may be read in chapter xii. of Washington Irving'a Lifo of MoAomtt, In the commentaries on the Kuran, the account found in the Ilm al Athtr and the oflicr f ]ui)i)icl«.is is considerably ampliiied. j ^cc ralesiinc Pili;rim's Te\l Society, /'rorof'ins, p. 13S. The fuhjcct is ably (lisicussed in !*rufci-^«»r llayier-Lewis" recent work, I he Hoiy Hcues of Jermakm^ chaplci iv., where all the authorities are cited. Digitized by Google JEHUSALEM, 9» in 560 A. D., and burnt down in 614 by Chosrocs II. during ilic great Persian raid through Syria, which laid most ol' the Christian buildings of the Holy l^nd in ruins. Perliai)s also the remarkable silence of all tlic Arab writers in res;ard to the dale of 'Abd al Malik's rebuilding of the Aksa may be taken as an indirect proof that that Khalif did not erect the edifice from its foundations, but that he made use of the remains of the St Mary Church (where 'Omar had raised his primitive mosque), incorporating these into the new Aks4, which thus rose on the ruins of the Christian edifice. However this may be^ the Chronicles make no mention of the date or lact of 'Abd al Malik's rebuilding of the Aks& Mosque, and the earliest detailed description of the same is that given by Mukaddasi in 985, some three centuries after 'Abd al Malik's days. Of the Dome of the Rock, on the other hand, we possess detailed accounts in the older authorities, describing both the foundation in a.h. 72 (691), and the general appearance the Dome presented as early as the third century of the Mijrah. It would appear as though the Arab chroniclers and the travellers who viMied the Haram Area at this period were more im|)ressed by the magnificence of the Dome of the Rock than by the Main- building of the Aksa Nfoscpie, of which the Dome of the Rock, in fact, was but an adjunct. Previous to Mukaddasi's account, what we know of the history of the Aksa Mosque may be sum- marized as follows : According to tradition, in or about the year 635 (a.h. 14), 'Omar erected a mosque (probably of \vood) at Jerusalem.* Presumably about the year 691 (a.h. 72), the * In so far as I have been able to ciiM:over, ihe earUcat nieiutun of Omar s baildlng a mosquo m jenuHdcm it the account found in the Chronicle of the Byzantine bislorian Thec^ines. The following is a translation from the CIreek which will l>e found on p. 524, vol. i., of the Chron agraphia (Bonn, 1839) : " Anno ^Tnndi 6135, Anno Domini 635. In this year Omar hejjan to restore the i cmple nt J'Tusalcni, for the l)uikimg, in truth, nu longer then stood firmly founded, but 1: 1 fallen to ruin. Now when Omar inquireil the cause, the Jews answered >a v : ' Unless thou throw down the Cross, which stands on the Mount of Olives, the building of the Temple will never tie firmly founded.' Thereupon Omar threw down the Cross at that place, in order that the buiMing (nf the Temple) might mi'le firm; and for the sare cause tanumerabie crosses in other quarters these enemies of Christ did likewise Digitized by Google 92 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Omayyad Khalif 'Abd al Malik rebuilt the Aks4 Mosque (vide Mukaddasi and Suyuti). In 746 (a.h. 130), an earthquake is said to have thrown down ihc greater part of tlic Ak>.a. Of this earthquake, and the damage caused by it, the earliest detailed account I have been able lu find is that (see below) gi\cn by the author of the Muthir, who is, liowever, a late authority, namely, A.n. 1351. The early Chronicles of Tabari and of Ibn al Athir make no mention of this earthquake of A.D. 746, though Mukaddasi {985) alludes in general terms to the earthquake which had thrown down the Aks4 in the days of the Abbasides. If the date of the earthquake, ah. 130 (746), be correct, it should be noted in passing that this was two years before the overthrow of the Damascus Khalifate ; since it was only in A.H. 132 that As SafHh conquered his Omayyad rival, and founded the dynasty of the Abbasides^ who shortly after this transferred their seat of government from Damascus in Syria to Baghdad on the Tigris. The account referred to above, as given by the author of the Muthir. of the earthquakes is as follows :• "On the authority of 'Ahd ar Rahman ibn Muhammad il)n Mansiir ibn I'habit, from his father, who had it from his father and grandfather. In the days of 'Ahd al Malik, all the gates of the mosque were covered with plates of gold and of silver. Hut in ihe reign of the Khalif Al Man.sCir, both the eastern and the western portions of the mosque bad fallen down. Then it was rejiorted to the Khalif, sayiiig, ' O commander of the faithful, verily the earth* qu'dke in the year 130 (jld. 746) did throw down the eastern part of the mosque and the western part also ; now, therefore, do thou give orders to rebuild the same and raise it again.' And the overthrow." Theojihanes was born in 751, and wrote his Chronicle towards the close of the eighth cenliir>' .v.n. (he died in S18 A.i'., 203 A.H.). and he is therefore prior by more than half a century lo the earliest Arab authoritiesi. youth is separated by considerably under a centuiy and a half from the date of Omar*s conquest of Jerusalem. • The Arabic text of this passage, collated from several MSS. in the Bibliotheque Nationale, is printed in my paper in the J. R. A. S., new series, xix., p. \o,\. The jxissage is copied veiljalim by Suyuti (in I470>, and again by Mujir aU Din (in 1496) ; see p. 250 of the Cairo text of the latter author. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 93 Khalif replied that as there were no > moneys in his treasury, (to supply the lack of coin) they should strip off the plates of go7d and of silver that overlaid the gates. So they stripped these off and coined therefrom Dinars and Dirhams, which moneys were expended on the rebuilding of the mosque until it was completed Then occurred a second earthquake, and the building that A1 MansObr had commanded to be built fell to the ground. In the days of the Khalif Al Mahdi, who succeeded him, the mosque was still lyin^ in ruins, which, being reported to him, he com- mandeil \\\ -m to rebuild the same. And the Khalif said iliaL the mosf jiie had been (of okl) too narrow, and of too great length — and (for this rea-.on) it had not been much used by the people — so ncnv (in rebuilding it) they siiould curtail the length and in- crease the breadth. Now the restoration of the mosque was completed on the new plan during the days of his Khalifate." From this account we learn that in a.h. 1.^0 the Aksa was thrown down by earthquake and rebuilt by the Khalif Al Mansiir. This restoration by Al N^ansfir probably took place about the year A.H. 154 (771), for in that year the Chronicles of Tabari and of Ibn al Athir inform us that Al Mansur visited Jerusalem^ and prayed in the mosque.'*^ The Chronicles, however, be it noted, make no mention of Al MansAfs restoration of the building : this we only read in the account given by the author of the Muthtr. According to this latter author a second earthquake (of which, however, apparently no mention is made in any of the Chronicles) laid Al Mans(ir's build- ing in ruins ; and afterwards the Khalif Al Mahdi, his successor, rebuilt the Aksi a second time, making it on this occasion broader and shorter. Of Al Mahdi's restoration, as in the former case, no mention is found in the Chronicles. If, however, the authority of the Muthtr is to be accepted for the fact, we should place this second restoration in or about the year 780 (a.h. 16^), for in that year, according to Tabari.t the Khalif Al Mahdi went to Jerusalem and made hj.s pra\ers in tiie Aksa Mosque, and he would then doubtless have had the ruined condition of the building brought under his notice. • Tabari, .Scries III , p. J72 ; ILn al Alhif, vol* v., p. 467. t Tabari, b«ri«s 11 1., p. 5ga Digitized by Google 94 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, From about the year a.d. 780, when the Aks.\ was restored in Al Mahdi's reiL,ni, down to 985 when Miikaddasi describes it. ns fnr as is known from the historians, no accident befell the mosque. Shortly before this, however, " a colonnade supported on marble pillars," as we learn from Mukaddasi, had been erected by the celebrated 'Abd Allah ibn Tahir, for many years independent Governor of Khurasan and the East. Of the ap|5eantnce of the Aksa. previous to Mukaddasi's date, the early geographers tell us next to nothing. What little is noted by them will be given on a ' subsequent page, where the accounts are translated i« extensa. Before, however* these passages are laid before the reader, and in order that he may rightly understand the descriptions which the early Muslim writers have left of the Noble Sanctuary, with the buildings of the Aks& and the Dome of the Rock, it will be necessary to enter into rome explanations of the Arab and technical usage of the word mcsque." The main characteristics of the , primitive Arab mosque are well exemplified in the accompanying plan representing the Jami' of Ibn Tiilun. This is tlie oldest mosque in Cairo, having been erected by Alimad ibn Tfilftn about the year 879 (265 a.h.) As here seen in its simplest form, the mosque primarily consisted of an open courtyard, within which, and round its four walls, ran colonnades or cloisters, to give shelter to the worshippers. On the side of the court towards the Kiblah (in the direction of Makkah), and facing which the worshipper must stand and kneel during prayers, the colonnade, instead of being single, is, for the con- venience of the increased numbers of the congrq^on, widened out to form the ]kim\ or "place of assembly/' In the case of Ibn Tiili^n's Mosque, five rows of columns, with the boundary-wall, form the five transverse aisles {A to a). In the centre of the / boundary-wall on the Makkah side is set the great Mihrab of the mosque indicating the direction of the Kiblah. Now in all descriptions of a mosque it is taken for granted that the visitor is ^ standing in the Court (as Sahn) of the mosque, and facing the Kiblah. Fronting him therefore is the Main-building, called the "covered-part" (ai AfughatiS)^ or the **£oTt'Tpsat''{a/AfuJkaiidamak) of the mosque {A to a) ; while in his rear is the colonnade {B), Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 95 single or double, against the wall of the courtyard, furthest from the Makkah-side, ana iliis is c ailed the " back " of the mosque {a/ Muakhkliarah). The *' right-hand side " of the mosque is in the neighbourhood of the colonnades (C), along the wall on the, right of the Court when you face the Mihrab, and the "left-hand side " is on the opposite side In the Court {as Sahti) thus o H o H - „•: . • . •■■.W'-'*""'!* • . • •• • • • COURT OP THE MOSOUE B r • OUTER COURT O O - JAMI* OF IBN TULUN IN OLD CAIRO enclosed, are often other buildings, such as tombs or minor chapels. In the Mosque of Ibn TftlOn there is a domed building (/: ), originally intended to serve as the mausoleum of the founder, but which, as he died fiir away in Syria, was subsequently fitted up with a water-tank to serve as a place for the ablution before prayer. Digitized by Google 96 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Turning now to ttie Arab descriptions of the Harani Area at Jerusalem, the point it is of importance to remember is that the term Masjid (whence through the Egyptian pronunciation of Masgid^ and the Spanish Mesguita^ our word mosque ") applies to the whole of the Haram Area, not to the AksH alone. Masfid in Arabic means " a place of prostration (in prayer) and therefore to revert once again to Ibn TOIAn's Mosque, (i) the Main- building, A ; (2) the Court, and (3) the Colonnades at the back, B ; with those (4) to the right, C ; to the left, D ; as also (5) the Dome E in the Court — one and all form essential parts of the nio.s<iue, and are all comprehended by the term '* Al Masjid. ' Rearing tliese points in mind, and coming to the Noble Sanctuary at Jerusalem, we find that the term *' Masjid," as already stated, is commonly applied not only to the Aksa Mosque (more properly the Jnmi\ or '* place of asscml)ly." for prayer), but to the whole enclosure of the great Court, with the Dome of the Rock in the middle, and all the other minor domes, and chapels, and colonnades. The Dome of the Rock (misnamed by the Franks " the Mosque of 'Omar "), is not itself a mosque or place for public prayer, but merely the largest of the many cupolas in the Court of the Mosque, and in this instance was built to cover and do honour to the Holy Rock which lies beneath it. Great confusion is introduced into the Arab descriptions of the Noble Sanctuary by the indiscriminate use of the terms Al Masjid or Al Masfidal AksA^JamV or /dmial Aksd ,\ and nothing but an intimate acquaintance with the locality described will prevent a translator, ever and again, misunderstanding the text he has before him — since the native authorities use the technical terms in an extraordinarily inexact manner, often confounding the whole, and its part, under the single denomination of " Masjid." Further, the usage of various writers differs considerably on these pomis : Mukaddasi invariably si)eaks of the whole Haram Area as J/ Afas/tW, or as v^/ Masjid al .Ikui^ "the Aksa Mosque," or "tlie mosque," while the Main-builuing of the mosque, at the south end of the Haram Area, which we generally term the Aks;i, he refers to as Al Mughatta, " the Covered-part." Thus he writes the mosque is entered by thirteen gates^" meaning the gates of Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 97 the Haram Area. So also "on the right of the court," means along the west wall of the Haram Area ; " on the left side " means the east wall ; and " at the back " denotes the northern boundary wall of the Haram Area. Nasir-i-Khusrau, who wrote in Persian, uses for the Main-buildinj of the Aksk Mosque the Persian word PAskisky that is, "Covered- part," which exactly translates the Arabic Al Mughatt&. On some occasions, however, the Ak$& Mosque (as we call it) is spoken of by NiUir as the MaksHrakj a term used especially to denote the ratled-off oratory of the Sultan, facing the Mihrdb, and hence in an extended sense applied to the building which includes the same. The great Court of the Haram Area, N^lstr always speaks of as the MasjU^ or the Masjid al Aksd^ or again as the Friday W osque ( Afas/iJ - i Ju m ) . In the presold c of this ambiguity of terms, I have thoiii;lit it better to translate Al Masjid and the various other phrases by " the Haram Area," or " the Nohle Sanctuar)*," in the one rase, and hy " the Aksr\ Mostjuc" in the other, as circumstances deniancled, and in acc-ordance witli the context ; in order thus to render the translation perfectly clear to European readers, it may be added that Muslim authorities speak in the same loose way of ''the Rork, ' when they really mean "the Dome of the Rock" {KMat as SUikhrah) which covers the same ; but this, after all, is only as we Speak of the " Holy Sepulchre," meaning " the Church,'' which is built over it In concluding these preliminary remarks, attention is directed to the fact that the KUflahy denoting the point of the compass towards Makkah, is in Syria used approximately as synonsrmous with "south." In Egypt, as will be seen in the plan of Ibn TfilAn's Mosque, the Kiblah points ea$t The Kiblah point in a mosque is indicated by a niche in the (J^mi') wall, generally finely ornamented, called the Mihrdb, Besides the great Mihr&b of the mosque, there are often numerous other and minor Mihrabs {prayer niches or oratories), just as in a Catholic church there h c many minor altars and chapels in addition to the high a.Uar ul liic chancel DesmpHoHS of the Aksd Mosque. — During the hundred yean that preceded Mukaddasi's date^ Syria and Palestine had become 7 Digitized by Google PALESTINE ^ UNDER THE MOSLEMS. lost to the Baghdad Khalifs. In 878 (264) Ahmad ibn Tftldn, their viceroy at Cairo, had asserted his independence, seized on Egypi and conquered the wliole of S)iia. The rule of ihc TiiltJnides lasted in Southern Syria and Palestine till 934, when their power was transferred to the Ikhshidis, who, in turn, were driven out of Kgypl and Syria by the l atiniite Khalif Al Mu izz in 969 ; and it was under the rule of his successor, Al 'Aziz, that Mukad- dasi wrote his description of Jerusalem in 985. Mukaddasi's account of the Aks4 Mosque at this date is as follows : "The Masjid al Aks& (the Further Mosque with the Haiam Area) hes at the south-eastern comer of the Holy City. The stones of the foundations of the Haram Area wall, which were ' laid by David, are ten ells, or a little less^ in length. They are chiselled (or drafi^, finely faced, and jointed, and of hardest material. On these the Khalif 'Abd al Malik subsequently built, using smaller but well-shaped stones, and battlements are added above. This mosque is even more beautiful than that of Damascus, for during the building of it they had for a rival and as a comparison the great Church (of the Holy Sepulchre) be- longing to the Christians at Jerusalem, and they built this to be even more magnificent than that other. But in the days of the Abbasides occurred the earth tjuakes,* which threw down most of the Main-building (a/ Mmjhatta, which is the Aksa Mosque) ; all, in fact, except that portion which is round the Mihrab. Now when the Khalif of that day (who was Al Mahdi) obtained news of this, he inquired and learned that the sum at that time in the treasury would in no wise suffice to restore the mosque. So he wrote to the governors of the provinces, and to all the commanders, that each should undertake the building of a colonnade. The order was cattied out, and the edifice rose firmer and more sub- stantial than ever it had been in former times. The more ancient portion remained, even like a beauty spot, in the midst of the new, and it extends as far as the limit of the marble columns ; for beyond, where the columns are of concrete, the later building commences. The Main-building of the Aksd Mosque has twenty- • See p. 92. Digitized by Google ooooooo 00000000090 ooo eooooooo 0 1-. Digitize JERUSALEM. 99 fix doors. The door (D) opposite to the Mihrab is called the Great Brazen Gate , it ih pLilcd wiih brass gilt, and is so heavy that only a man strong of shoulder and of arm can turn it on its hinges. To the right hand of this (Great Gate) arc .seven large doors, the midmost covered with gilt plates : and after the same manner there are seven doors to the left. And further, on the eastern side (of the Aksa), are eleven doors unornamented. Over the first- mentioned doors, fifteen in number, is a colonnade (C, C) sup- ported on marble pillars, lately erected by 'Abd Allah ibn Tnhir.* " On the right-hand side of the Court (that is along the West Wall of the Haiam Area) are colonnades supported by marble pillars and pilasters; and on the back (or North Wall of the Haram Area) are colonnades vaulted in stone. The centre part of the Main-building (of the Aks&) is covered by a mighty roof, high- pitched and gable-wise, over which rises a magnificent dome. The ceilings everywhere— except those of the colonnades at the bade (along the North Wall of the Haram Area) — axe covered with lead in sheets ; but in these (northern) colonnades the ceilings are made of mosaics studded-in. *' On the left {oi cast side oi the Haram Area) there are no colonnades. The Main-building of the (Aksa) Mosque does not come up to the Eastern Wall of the Haram Area, the building here, as it is said, never having been ( umplctcd. Of the reason for this they give two accounts. The one is, that the Khalif 'Omar com- manded the people to erect a building ' in the western part of the Area, as a place of prayer for Muslims and so they left this space (which is towards the south-eastern angle) unoccupied, in order not to go counter to his injunction. The other reason given is, that it was not found possible to extend the Main -building of the (Aksa) Mosque as iar as the south-east angle of the Area Wall, lest the (great) Mihr&b, in the centre-place at the end of the Mosque, shoidd not then have stood opposite the Rock under the Dome ; and such a case was repugnant to them. But Allah alone knows the truth." (Muk., i68-i 7 1 .) On a subsequent page Mukaddasi gives an account of the Talis^ * Independent Governnr of Khurasan anil the East from 82810844. He was third in succession of ibe Tabiride Dynasty. 7 — 3 Digitized by Google too PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, man in the Aki^'i ; and A1 Btrftni,* writing in looo ( a.h. 390), a few years later than Mukaddasi, also mentions having seen these curious writings ; Mulvaddnsi's notice is as follows : "In the Holy City there is a Tahsman against the hite of serpents, the same l)eing the inscription on the marble slab behind the Pulpit of the Cireat Mosque, where is cut in the surface the words : Afpfiammad is Allah's Aposiie ; and, again, In the nam of Allah the Merciful y the Compassionate" (Muk., 186.) Ibn al Fakih, who wrote (903) about eighty year?, before Mukaddasi, has the following note on this Talisman. He also, as will be noted, speaks of the Maksftrahs, or spaces in the Mosque latled-off for the accommodation of the women ; the dimensions, however, that are recorded (70 or 80 ells by 50^ equivalent to 120 feet by 75) make it difficult to understand how these could have been inside the Aksl Perhaps, therefore^ the Aksft must here again be taken to mean the whole Haram Area, and then the Maksfiiahs may have stood in the outer court. The account of Ibn 'Abd Rabbih, a contemporary (913), confirms this. Ibn al l "akili writes : " To the right of the Mihrab (of the Aksa) is a slab on which, in a circle, is written the name of Muhammad — the blessing of Allah be upon him '.—and on a white stone behind the Kiblah (wall, to the '^outh) is an inscription in the following; words : hi the name of Ailahy the Merciful^ the Compassionate^ Muhammad is Allah's Aposiie, and Hamzah was his helper. Now, within the (Aksa) Mosque are three MaksQrahs for the women, each MaksCUah being 70 ells in length." (I. F., 100.) On the subject of the Maksftrahs Ibn 'Abd Rabbih's statement is that: In the Mosque (Al Aks&) are three MaksOmhs for the women, the length of each Maksdrah being 80 ells, and its breadth 50.'' (I. R., iii. 367.) It will be seen that Mukaddasi, writing in 985 a.d., describes the Aksa Mosque of his day as having ^e^if doorways opening to the north, and eleven opening to the east. The plan of the Aks4 must then have been very diiTLrLiu from that of the present build- * Ath&r ai Bdkiyah, Sachau's translation, p. 294. Digitized by Googlc JERUSALEM.. loi ing, as may be seen by a reference to the iHustr&tions facing pp. 99 and 110.* In roi6 (a.h. 407) and 1034 (a.h. 475), as we learn from the Chronicles of Ibn al Athtr, Syria *Wa» visjited by destructi\ c cirthquakes. He writes : In 407 the Great Dome fell down upon the Rock {as Sckhralt) in Jerusalem/'t And again : " In 425 earthfjuakes were many in both Kgypt and Syria. The most destructive was that felt at Ar Ramlah. The people abandoned their houses there during many days ; a third of the town was thrown down, and many persons were killed under the ruins."| Of the destniction at Ar Ramlah we shall speak subsequently (see Chapter VIII.). Considerable damage was also done by the earthquake of the year 425 to the outer wall of the Haram Area, and an extant inscription in situ records the date of the restoration carried out here by order of the Fatimite Khalif Adh Dh^ir. The text of the inscription copied from a stone tn the wall of the Haram Area, is given by M. de Vogii^ in his magnificent work on Le Tem/ie de Jerusalem (p. 77). He states it may still be clearly read, though in a rather dilapidated condition, on two of the batttements near the Cradie 0/ Jesus, at the south-east Angle. The translation of this inscription is as follows : ... the days of thf ImAm adh Dhahir It 'Izdz ad Din Allah, the ComnuuiticroJ' the J iiilhjul . . . (word.s illegible) . . . the southern outer wall and the . . , {eastern I) outer wall . . . year four hundred and ttventyfive" That the Aks'i Muscjue was also seriously damaged at this period is proved by an inscription that was read a hundred and forty years after this date, on the ceiling of the Dome of the Aksa by 'AU of Herat, who visited the Holy City in 11 73, while the place was still in the hands of the Crusaders. 1'his inscrip- tion is apparently no longer to be seen — at least, M. de Vogii^ makes no mention of it in his work. Possibly, however, it might * For the 6nt idea of the plans faci ng pp. 99 and 106^ I am indebted to Professor Hayter'Lewis (see his paper in the Fatesiine Bxphratiw Fmmd " Qaarterly Statement *' for January, 1887). My plans, however, dilfer slightly from his, f)eing<!rawn to scale on the measurements given by N^ir>i*Khusratt of the Mosque he saw it in IO47. \ ibn al Athlr, vol. ix., p. 209. 4- Itleni, vol. ix., p. 298. Digitized by Google I02 PALESTJNk UNDER THE .\JO:>LEMS. still be discover^ \wefe* careful search instituted,** for 'Ali of Herat's acc^^m|*is"Very circumstantial, as will be seen by the following tribi^y^fion : The*'Aks4 Mosque.— In this Mosque is the Mihrftb of the >lb{b^.'Omar ; the Franks have not done it any damage. On 'tb*e.*roof I read the following inscription: In the name ef , \'' 'Allah the Compassionate, the Mertiful. Praise to Him who *, * hro!(::Jit His servant { Muhaininad) by flight from the Masjid al Ifiuam {at Afakkah) iv thf Masjid al Aksa (at Jerumlrm^^ on the precincts oj whii h we ini'okc a blessing. May Allah give aid to His senmnt and viear, \4li Abu-l Hasan adh Dhahir li-lzdzi dtn- Allah, the Commander of the Faithful. Allah's benediction be upon him and upon his immaculate forefathers^ and upon his beneficent sons I jFor the restoration of this same Dome and its gildings hath given connnand our illustrious and dear lord^ the chosen unusnt of the Commander of the Faithfut^ and his devoted servant^ Abu-l K&sim *Aii ibn Ahmad— Allah give him aid and protection / The whole of this {restoration) was aetomplished iy the last day of the month DkA4Kefadah^ of the year 426 : he who {superintended) the huildmg of the same being *Ahd Attah ihn al Hasan of Cairo^ the arehiteei* This inscription, as well as the porticoes," says 'All, are all done over with mosaics of gold, and these the Franks have not touched or in any way damaged." The description of the Aksa in 985 by Mukaddasi is, in the main, identical with that given by Nasir, who visited Jerusalem sixty years later (104 7), and the two accounts taken together enable us to gain a very exact idea of the appearance of the (ireat Mosque before the arrival of the Crusaders. The chief difference between the Mosque as described by Mukaddasi and that seen by Nasir lies in the number of gates. Mukaddasi says there were in his day fifteen gates to the north, and elei^en to the east; while the Persian pilgrim describes only sei^en gates to the north, and ten opening east Further, Ndsir makes no mention of the * My translation is from the MS. in the Bodleian, nt fol. 36, xer^o. With a view of the possible recovery of this inscription, I have printeU the Arabic text in the Patatine Expiifratian Fund <*Quartedy Stttement for October, im, p. 28a Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 103 colonnade built by Ibn Tlhir, whichi according to Mulcadda&i, fonned a portico to the gates opening north. The earthquakes of the years 407 (1016) and 425 (1034), which took place between the dates of the visits of Mukaddasi and NAsir, must account for these changes. Ibn T&hir's colon- nade doubtless fell, and the North Wall of the Aksi, weak as it was Ijy ihc apertures pierced in it for the fifteen gates, must have suflfered much damage. When the walls were restored aftei the earthquakes, frv gates (instead of fifteen) were left in the North Wall, and in the East Wall one of Muknddasi's e/etrn gates was presumably blocked, leaving the /ca open a>, seen by Nasir. Nasir states there were in the Mosque 280 columns. These, in a small degree, would recall the forest of columns we see in the great Omayyad Mosque at Cordova — at this present day the Cathedral. That the Aks& was not unlike the Cordovan Mosque may be inferred from Idrisi's mention (see p. 108) of the two together for the puiposes of a comparison of their respective sizes. The Cordovan Mosque, begun in 786 a.d.| and finished by the two successors of the Spanish Khalif 'Abd ar Rahman I., shows at the present day no fewer than 850 columns in a space that measures 534 feet by 387. In other words, the Spanish Mosque is more than double the area of the Aksi in N&sir's days (as we shall see by the figures immediately to be quoted), and the Cordovan building must have contained just over three times the number of culumus to be seen in 1047 in the Great Mosque at Jerusalem.* To return, however, to the description of the AksL It will be noticed that the number of the columns, staled by Nasir at 280, divides up very well to form the fourteen minor aihle^ Lfoing south) towards the Kibiah, from the fourteen minor gates in the North * The Cordovan Mosque had originally eleven longitudinal aisles, eight mare being added on the east side by the Kbalif llUbftm. In its first design, there- fore, this Moaqne was more like the AksA even than it came to be after ttte laicr additions. There were in the Spanish Mosque over thirty rows oT columns ori|jinally, doubtless perfectly symmetrically arrtingeH. At the present day many columns are larking nnd set out of jilnre, to accommoilate the mon- strous Gothic chapel which woi built in Charles V'.'s days. (See Monuttuntos Arabes^ pof Rafael Contreraa, Madrid, 1878, p. 42.} Digitized by Google to» PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Wall, as described by Mukaddasi. I| therefore, take it for granted that in Mukaddasi's time also there were these twenty rows of columns, standing 6 ells (12 feet) apart, with fourteen columns in each row, and it is on this data that the two plans facing pp. 99 and 106 have been drawn. NiUir is the first to give us the exact dimensions of the Aks&. I'wice over, he says that the East Wall — ^that is, the length of the Mosque from north to south — ^measured ">Swr htmdred and twenty cubits while the width along the North Wall was ** 1 50 cubits."* The width of 150 cubits, or 300 feet, tallies well enough with the remainder of Nasir's description, and with what is known from Mukaddasi and modern measurements in the Haram Area. The length of 420 cubits, however, equivalent to 840 feet, is an impossible dimension ; for this, measuring from the great South Wall of the Haram Area, would bring the Northern dales and Wall of the Aksa over the Dome of the Rock and the Platform. W ithout any great likelihood of error, we should, I think, read " 120 " for the 420. This, being 240 feet, would bring the North Wall and Gates of Ndsir's Mosque on the same line as the Gates and North Wall (inside the porch) of the present Mosque. Considerable portions of the extant walls between the Northern Gates show at the present day (according to M. de Vogti^) unmistakable traces of ancient structure. (See the plan drawn in De Vogii^'s JkntstUem^ plate xxx., and the plan feeing p. no.) And this confirms the hypothesis that we have in the modem walls the line still unaltered of the ancient North Wall of the Mosque as it has existed since the days when, on Al Mahdi's restoration, the building was shortened in the length, and made broader in the width. (See p. 93 ) Nasir's aiuaiUieiiiciiis of the open ^jace between the south cabt Angle of the Haram Area and the 1'l.ast Wall of the Aksa, namely, •* 200 ells " (see next page) is, in round numbers, exact, for the measurement would, as near as may be, have been 400 feet, if we draw the plan to scale on the figures given in the foregoing paragraphs. The followmg is a translation of Nasir-i-Khusrau's description of the Aks4 Mosque in 1047 • * See p. 106. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, '*The Friday Mosque (which is the Aksk) lies on the east side of the city, and (as before noticed) one of the walls of the Mosque (Area) is on the W&dt Jahannum. When you examine this wall, which is on the Widf, from the outside of the Haram Area, you may see that for the space of loo cubits it is built up of huge stones, set without mortar or cement Inside the Mosque (Area) the summit of this wall is perfectly level The (Aksa) Mosque occupies the position it does because of the Rock As Sakhrah." (N. Kh., 26.) After describing the Cradle of Jesus (see Chapter V.), isasir continues : "Then passing liie entrance to this Mosque (of the Cradle of Jcsus) near the (south-easterti; Angle of the East Wall (of the Haram Area), you come to a great and beautiful Mosque, which is other timn that called the Cradle of fesus^ and is of many times its size. This is called the Masjid al Aks4 (or the Further Mosque), and it is that to which Allah — be He exalted and glorified ! — brought His chosen (Apostle) in the Night Journey from Makkah, and from here caused him to ascend up into Heaven, even as is adverted to in the words of the KutSn: Ghry be to Hm who carried His serva/tt by night from the JUasfid al Ifardm (the sacred Mosque at Mokkah) to the Masjid al Aksi^ {the Mosque that is more Remote at Jerusalem^ whose precinct we have blessed* On this spot they have built, with utmost skill, a Mosque. Its floor is spread with beautiful carpets, and special servants are appointed for its service to serve therein continually. " From the (south-cast) Angle, and >ilung the Suutli Wall (of the Haram Area) for tiie spare of 200 ells (or 400 feet), there is no building, and this is part of the Court (of the Ilaram Area). The Main-building (of the Aksa Mosque)! is very large, and contains the Maksurah (or space railed off for the officials), which is built against the South A\'all (of the Haram Area). The length of the western side of the Main-building (of the Aksa) measures • KurAn, ch. xvii., ver. i. + In Persian Pthht^h, " covered part," corresponding with the Ambic term Afu^haUdf which iuu> Uic ^me iiigoilication. Digitized by Google io6 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. 420 cubits (read 120 cubits), and tbe width of it is 150 cubits.* The Aks& Moscjue has 2S0 marble columns, support iiig arches thai are fashioned of stone, and both the shafts and the capitals are riveted with lead, so that nothing can be more firm; Between the (ruws of) columns measures 6 ells. The Mosque is everywhere flagged with coloured marble, and the joints are riveted in lead. The Maksurah (Plan, C, C) is facing the centre of the South \\:\\\ (of the Mosque), and is of such size as to contain sixteen columns. Above rises a mighty dome, that is ornamented with enamel-work, after the fashion to he seen in other parts of tlie Noble Sanctuary. In this place there is spread Maghribi matting, and there are lamps and lanterns, each suspended by its separate chain. "The great Mihrib (or prayer-niche towards Makkah, Plan, G) is adorned with enamel-work ;t and on either side tbe Mihr&b are two columns of marble, of the colour of red cornelian. The whole of the low wall round the MaksArah is built of coloured marble. To the right (of the great Mihr&b) is the Mihr&b of (the Khalif ) Mu'awiyah (Plan, F), and to the left is the Mihr&b of (the Khalif) 'Omar (Plan, H)— May Allah grant him acceptance 1 The roof of the (Aksa) Mosque is constructed of wood, beautifully sculptured. Outside the doors and walls of the MaksClrah, and in the parts facing (north and east) towards the Court (of the Haram Area), are fifteen gateways, each of which is closed by a finely-wrought door, measuring 10 ells in height by 6 ells in the breadth. Ten of these doorways open in the (east) wall (of the Mos(jue), which is 420 cul^its in length {nnJ 120 cubits), and there are five in the width (or north wall) of the Mosque, which measures 150 cubits in lengtli. Among these gates there is one * These arc the figures in the British Museum M.S., which are also ihosc of M. Schefer's French transladoD. His text, however, runs as follows, and (liflTeis both from bis translation and the text of ibe British Museum MS.: "The main building of the (Aksa) Mosque is very large. The length is four hundred and ct^At cubits, and the MaksQrah lies to the right hand, against the South The western side of the Main-building measures four hundred and i](iy cubits in the width." My reasons for sul^tituting 120 for 430 are given on p. 104, f The present Mihxftb only dates from the time of Saladia ; see p. 109. Digitized by Google eooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooo ooooooooo oo^oQo«ooooeooooooooo oooooooocooooooooooo OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOJB oooo i O OOOOOOOOOOOOO^u O OOOOOPOOOOOOOO o o o o o oeoeoooooooeooo o^o o o o aooooooooooooooo OOOO ooooooooooeooooooooo 00000000090000000000 O QOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO iHlAiiim»ife<f.wtf O i < o ^§ u. i o « so 2? o K o o o Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 107 of brass, most finely wrought and beautiful ; so that one would say it was of gold, set in with fired silver (niello ?), and chased.* The name of the Khalif Al Mimiin is upon it, and they relate that Al MAmOn sent it from Baghdad! When all these gates of the Mosque are set open, the interior of the building is light, even as though it were a court open to the sky. When there is wind and rain they close these gates, and then the light comes from the windows (above). Along all the four sides of the Main- building (of the Aksa Mos(jue) are chests thai belong each one to a certain city of Syria and 'Irak, and near these the Mujdwirdn (or pilgrims who are residing for a time in the Holy City) take their seat, even as is done in the Haram Mosque at Makkah. May Allah — be He glorified 1 — ennoble the same." (N. Kh,, On July 14, 1099, the Crusaders, under Godfrey de Bouillon, became possessed of the Holy City, The Haram Area was given over to the Knights of the recently-established Order of the Temple, who derived their name from the Dome of the Rock, which the Crusaders imagined to be the Temple of the days of Christ, and hence named Templum Domini, The Aks& Mosque, on the other hand, was known as the PalaHum^ or Templum Salomanis, The Templars made considerable alterations in the Aks& Mosque and the adjoining portions of the Haram Area, but left the Dome of the Rock untouched On the west of the Aks&, along the south wall of the Haram Area, they built their armoury, on the site occupied by the colonnades of arches described by Nasir (see Chai)ter \'.). In tlic substructions of the south east Angle of the Haram Area, to the west of the Cradle 0/ Jesus ^ they stabled their horses, using probably either the ancient " Triple Gate," or the '* Single Gate (sec Chapter V.), as the mode of egress from these vaults. The Sicilian geographer Idrisi, who lived at King Roger's Court, * The dreal Brass f'rnte mentioncfl by Mukaddasi ; sec p. 99, Plan, D. f M. Schefer is, I I -jIm vc, 1 n rorrcci when he states in a note to his translation of Nasir-i-Khu&rau s Sc/cr Nanuh (p. 81, n. 2) that this inscripliun, of Al M&mun, is idll extant. It is certainly not to be foond in M. de Vogiie's AErMfo/tfiii, |v 8<Sk whidi is the reference pven* Digitized by Google 108 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. has left the following short notice of the Aksi Mosque as it stood in the early part of the twelfth century a.d. ; but, as has been before stated (p. 7), it seems proliable that Idrist had never him- self visited Jerusalem, and he must therefore have derived his in- formation from books in King Roger's librai y, and the descriptions given him by home-coming pilgrims. Idrisi reports as follows : ** On leaving the Cireai Church (of the Resurrection), and going eastwards, you come to the holy house built by Solomon, the son of David. This, in the time of the Jews, was a mosque (or house of prayer), to which pilgrimage was made ; but it was taken out of their hands, and they were driven from thence. And when the days of Islam came, under the kin^^^ of the Muslims, the spot came once more to be venerated as the Masjid al Aksa. " The Masjid al Aksi is the Great Mosque (of Jerusalem), and in the whole earth there is no mosque of greater dimensions than this, unless it be the Friday Mosque at Cordova, in Andalusia, which they say has a greater extent of roof than has the AksS, only the court of the Aksa Mosque (or Haram Area) is certainly larger than is that of the mosque at Cordova. (The Haram Area of) the Masjid al Aks^ is four-sided; its length measures 200 fathoms (^<t'), and its breadth is 180 fathoms. In that half (of the Haram Area) which lies (south) towards the Mihrab (or prayer- niche) is (the Main building of the AksA Mosque), wlncli is roofed with domes of stone set on many rows of columns. The other half (of the Haram Area) is an (o[>en) court, and is not roofed over. The gate of the Dome of the Rock to the south faces the roofed-in portion (which is the Main-building of the Aksa), which same was in former times the place of prayer of the Muslims Since (the Holy City) was conquered by the Greeks (that is, the Crusaders), and it hath remained in their hands even down to the time of the writing of this book (in the year 1 154 a.d.), they have converted this roofed-in portion (which is the Main-building of the Aks& Mosque) into chambers, wherein are lodged those companies of men known as Ad Ddwiyyah (the Templars), whose name signifies Servants of God's Himse,** (Id., 7.) 'Ali of Herat, our next authority, vrriting a few years before Saladin's reconquest of the Holy City, after noting the inscription Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 109 set up \)y tlie Fatimite Khalif Adh Dhahir /see p. 102), gives some details of the dimensions of the Aksa Mosque, which dimen- sions agree fairly well with the modern measurements. The " pace " he uses may be taken as approximately 30 incheS| and the '*eU" is the royal ell of 18 inches. Following on the description of the Cave under the Rock, 'A]i writes : "The width of the Riw&k (or main colonnade of the Aksk Mosque ?) is 15 paces; and its length, from south to north, is 94 paces (or 335 feet). The height of the Dome of the Aksi is 60 ells (90 feet), and its ciicumferenoe is 96 ells (that is, 3a ells diameter, or 48 feet). The perimetre of the square (under the Dome) is 160 ells (each side being 40 ells, or 60 feet). The length of the Aksd, from south to north, is 148 ells (or 322 feet)." (A. H., Oxf. MS., f 39.) After Saladin's reconquest of the Holy City in 1187, the whole of the Maram Area and its various buiUiings underwent a romplete restoration. The account given in the Chronicle of Ihn a! Athir of what was especially done in the Aksa Mosque is as follows* : ''''Events of the year 583 (1187). — When Saladin had taken possession of the city and driven out the infidel^;, he ( onmianded that the buildings should be i)Ut back to their ancient usage. Now the Templars had built to the west of the Aksa a building for their habitation, and constructed there all that they needed of granaries, and also latrines, with other such places, and they had even enclosed a part of the Aksa in their new building. Saladin commanded that all this should be set back to its former state, and he ordered that the Masjid (or Harem Area) should be cleansed, as also the Rock, from all the filth and the impurities that were there. All this was executed as he commanded." Over the Great Mihr&b^ in the Aksft Mosque, may still be read the inscription set here by Saladin after this restoration was com- pleted The Arabic text is given by M. de Vogii^ in Le Temple di Jerusalem^ p. loi. The translation of the same is as follows : the name of Allah the Compassionate, the Merciful! Hath ordered the ref>air of this holy Mihrab, and the restoration of the * Iba al Alhir, voL ix., p. 364. Digitized by Google no PALESTINE VNDER THE MOSLEMS. Jks'i Mosque — which was founded in piety — the servant of AikUk^ and J lis rrgent^ Yiisuf ibn AyyCib Abu I Mudhaffar^ the victoriout kiug^ Salah ad Dunya wa ad Din {Saladin)^ after thai AUak had conquered {the City) by his hand during the month of the year 583. And he askeih of Allah to inspire him with thanJ^lness for this favour y atti io mahe himajpartaheref the remission {of sins}, through His mercy and forpueness.** Subsequent to the Muslim reconquest of the Holy City, the only mention made by the historians of any alterations in the Aksft Mosque are those noted by Mujir ad Din. He states that the south wall of the Haram Area, near the Mihrftb of David, was re- built by the MamlOk Sultan of Egypt, Muhammad, son of Kala'un, who reigned from 1310 10 1341. The same Pmn c also ordered the soulh end of the Ak^a. to be lined with marble slabs, and caused two wiiiduvvs to be pierced there, in the south wall, to right and to left of the (ireat Mihrah. (M. a. D.. 43??.) After the times of Saladin tiiere is no detailed ilescription of the diinrnsions and appearantx' of the Aksa Mostjue till we come to that written by Mujir ad Din in 1490 ; and in his day the Mosque was evidently identical with the one we now see. The present Mosque (exactly like that described in 1496) has seven gates to the north, and only one to the east Two other gates, on the western side, lead one into the court, and one into what was» in Crusading days, the Templars' Armoury, sometimes called Bahi^at al Baidh (Plan, F, and incorrectly At Ahsd ai KaMmah (' the Ancient Aks4 '), which Mujfr ad Dtn names < the Women's Mosque.' Mujtr ad Din's description is as follows : " The Aks& Mosque measures in length north to south, from the Great Mihr&b to the threshold of the Great Gate opi)osite to it, 1 00 ells of the workman's ell {DhirS al 'Amal). This does not include the bow of the Mihrab, nor the portico outside the northern doors. The v,i irom the Eastern Gate (C) — through which you go out to the Ciudle of Icsus —to the Western Gate, is 76 ells of the workman's ell.* '1 he Mosque has ten gates leading out to the Court of the Haram Area. Seven are to the north, opening * In the present plan these lines measure 230 feet by 170^ fiiving for tlie workman's ell 2*3 feet, and 2*24 feet^nnghly, 2| feet. Digitized by Google Digitized by Google Digitized by Google 1 ySRUSALBM, III from each one of the seven aisles of the Mosque.* Then there is the eastern door and the western door, and the door leading to the building known as the J4mi' an Nisft, ' the Mosque of the Women ' (the Templars' Annoury, Plan, F, F). Now from the western part of the Aksft, there opens this great hall, called Jami* an Nisi It has a double aisle running east and west, roofed by ten vaults, supported on nine piers, very solidly built I learn that this place was built during the days of the Fatimites.** (M. a. D., 367, 368.) The last assertion is presumably in error, for the Templars' Armoury does not date from Fatiinilc days. Of the Mihrabs in the Aksa Mosc[ue, Suyuti p^ives the following notes, showmg that in his day (1470) they stood exactly as they do at present : "The Mihrab of Zakariyyi (Zacharias). — Most agree that it is that within the (Aks4) Mosque in the aisle {riwd/i), near the eastern door." In the Muslim legend, " Zacharias, the son of Barachias, whom, ye slew between the temple and the altar " (St. Matth. xxiv. 35), and Zachariah, the son of Jehoiada, the priest who was stoned widi stones at the "aMmnandment of the king in the court of the house of the Lord'* (a Chron. xxiv. ta), and Zacharias, the father of John the Baptist, are all one and the same personage. The Mihrftb Zakariyyd is still pointed out at the point D on the plan of the Aksft Mosque SayAti continues : **The Mihr&b of Mu*dwiyah.— This is said to be the beautiful Mihrdb which is at the present time enclosed within the Maksftrah (the part railed-olT), for the preacher of tlie Khutbah (or Friday sermon). Between it and ihc great Mihiai) comes the beautiful pulpit. As to the Mihrab of 'Omar, people differ which this may * The accompanying illustration of the nuith frunt and portico of the Aksa repreaent* the liiitlding as it stands at the present day. The gable or pitched ioof (called Jamalfto, or "camel-backed" in Arabic), covering (he central navct is here shown. This fonn of roof, according; to Mukaddasi (see pp. 21 and 99), was peculiar to the Mo<-f]ucs in Syria ; in other countries the roofs of the Mosques were generally ilat and covered with a coating of cLiy. Digitized by Google 113 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, he. SfMiic say it is the great Mihrab, close to which now stands the Noble Pulpit, and fronting the Great Ciate, through which you enter the Aksd Mosque. Others say that the Mihrab of 'Omar is the one in the eastern aisle of the Aksd Mosque, being in the (south) wall of the Mosque, seeing this said aisle, with its adjacent parts, is called the Jami' of 'Omar (Plan, £), and that this is the very place which he cleared of filth, he, 'Omar, and those who were with him of the Companions, and swept clean before they prayed thereon. Whence it is called the JAmV of 'Omar. Most, however, are of the opinion before mentioned, namely, that the Mihrlb of 'Omar is the great Mihrib near the Mimbar, or Pulpit." (S., 264.) The small building on the east of the Aks&, along the south boiindciry wall, known at the present day as the Mosque of 'Omar (PLui, E), and here referred to. is of comparatively modern con- struction, and subsequent to the days of Saladin. The present building lying to the east of the north portico and gates of the Aksa, called the F:\risiyyah (not shown on the plan facing p. no), was built by a certain Paris ad Din Albki, about the year (755) 1354- (M. a. D., 390.) The question now arises : When did the great change in the plan of the Aksa Mosque take place? — from the many-columned Mosque of the days of Nasir (as shown in the plans facing pp. 99 and 106) to the comparatively poor building described by Mujlrad Din, and seen at the present day ? (the plan of which &ces p. 1 10). ^ The Arab chroniclers tell us nothing very definite on this point, but all we can gather from various sources inclines us fully to agree with Professor Hayter-Lewts in thinking that the great alteration in the Mosque must have been made shortly after the Holy City had been taken by Godfrey de Bouillon. Mr. Hayter-Lewis writes * The probability is that the Mosque was injured in the capture of the town by the Crusaders. By them it was assigned as the residence for ihe Templars who have left very clear traces of their occupation of the Aksa ; more especially at the southern part, where an apse to the south-east chapel, and portions of a richly- ornamented arcade to the south wall, are very evident. Probably * Tke ffofy Fh£€s tfjtnuakm^ by T. Hayter*Lewis, F.S. A., pb 87. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, it was by them repaired and reconstructed much as it appears now, except that when Saladin reconquered the city he restored it to its original purposes of a Mosque, uncovered the Mihrdb, which had been blocked up b) a thick wall, as is stated in an inscription by hinh decorated the whole, and executed, circa 1188, the work now hcen in the transepts.* The historical data given by the MusHm writers would ccflainly seem to corroborate this view. Tracing? the histors point by point backward, we find, in the first ]">]ace, that the Mt)S(jiie, as it now stands, is identical with that described by Mujir ad Din in 1496, Now Mujir ad Din devotes some pages of the section of his work on the topography of the Holy City fpp. 432-447 of the Cairo text) to a careful enumeration of the long list of Mamlftk Sultans who succeeded to the throne of Saladin (ending with the Sultan of his own days), with a view of mentioning the various monuments they had left in the Haram Area and Jerusalem ; and nowhere does he make mention of any extensive alterations having been effected by the MamlOk Sultans in the Aksft. Further, the description given in the chronicles of the restorations effected by Saladin in the Mosque after the year 1287. shows that the Mosque, as it came into his hands, after the expulsion of the Crusaders, was in all essential points what Mujtr ad Dtn described in 1496, and what we now see. From 1099 ^^^7 Holy City was in the hands of the Crusaders, and in 1047 we have Nasir-i-Khusrau's account of the Aksa when he visited it — a magnificent building, double the width of the present Mos(jue, with tvvo hundred and eighty pillars supporting the roof, and fifteen aisles. Tiie con- clusion can only be that it was during the occupation of the Crusaders that the Mosque was redu( ed from its original grand proportions to the narrow limits we at present see. This conclu- sion is confirmed when we remember that the I^itins considered the Aksa Mosque to hold a very secondary place (while the Dome of the Rock was in their eyes the true Templum Domini) ; hence that the Knights Templars had no compunction in remodelling probably the whole building, when they turned part of the Aksa into a church for the order, and established their mainguard and armoury in the outlying quarters of the great Mosque. 8 Digitized by Google "4 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, THE DOME OF THE ROCK. In remarkable contrast with the h*tt1e that is known of the early architectural history of the Aks& Mosque, is the very full account given by the Annalists of the date and the historical incidents connected with the foundation of the Dome over the Sacred Ruck. From the earhest times, also, there are extant such detailed descrij> tions of this beautiful building, that it may be affirmed, almost certainly, that the edifice as it now stands in the nineteenth century,* is (in regard to ground plan and elevation) sul)stantially identical with that which the Khaiif 'Abd al Malik erected in the year 691 (a.h. 72). The Cupola, it is true, has on many occasions been shattered by earthquakes, and the walls possibly have often been damaged and repaired, but the octagonal ground-plan and the system of concentric colonnades, through all the restorations have remained unaltered; and even to the number of the windows, the Dome of the Rock, as described in a.d. 905 by Ibn al Faktti, is almost exactly similar to the Kubbat as Sakhrah of the present day. In the matter of the Rock which the Dome is intended to cover, it must be remembered that this was held sacred, in the eyes of Muslim true believers^ both as representing the ancient Kiblah of Moses— for on the Rock they say the Ark of the Covenant was placed — and as the first Kiblah in Islam, for it was only in the inualh oi Kajah of the second year of the Flight that the revelation came to Muhammad telling him that the Ka'al)ah at Makkah was for all future tinies to be the sole Kiblah-point, towards which his followers should turn their faces in prayer. Further, this Roc k was an object of veneration to the True Believer, since, according to the received tradition already quoted (p. 89), their Prophet had from this Rock ascended into Taradise, and returned again to earth at this spot, after beholding the presence of Allah. That the Rock was a sacred rock to all Muslims, it is all important to remember, in view of the events which induced 'Abd al Malik to erect the great Dome above it. Before quoting the accounts of this event given * See frontispiece. Digitized by Google Digitized by Coogle JERUSALEM. "5 in the Arab Chronicles, it may be well to borrow a few lines from a work written by the late Professor E. H. Palmer, which portray the condition of the Omay^^ad Khalifate at the period when the Dome of the Rock was built : *In A.D. 6i>4, in the reign of 'Ahd al Malik, the nuuh successor of Muhammad, and the filth KhaHf of the house of Omayyali, events happened which once more turned people's attention to the City of David. For eic^ht years the Muslim I-inipire had been distracted by factions and jiarty quarrels. The inhabitants of the two Holy Cities, Makkah and Al Madinah. had risen against the authority of the legitimate Khalifs, and had proclaimed 'Abd Allah ibn Zubair their spiritual and temporal head. The Kbalifs Yazld and Mu'&wiyah had in vain attempted to suppress the insur- rection ; the usurper had contrived to make his authority acknow* ledged throughout Arabia and the African provinces, and had established the seat of his government at Makkah itself. 'Abd al Malik trembled for his own rule; year after year crowds of pilgrims would visit the Ka'abah, and Ibn Zubair's religious and political influence would thus become disseminated throughout the whole of Islam. In order to avoid these consequences, and at the same time to weaken his rival's prestige, 'Abd al Malik conceived the plan of diverting men's minds from the pilgrimage to Makkah, and inducing Liicra to make the pilgrimage to Jcruhalcm instead.'* Va knbi, one of the earliest of the Muslim historians, writing of the events ^vhi(■h came to pass in 'Abd al Malik's days, gives a wcry clear a< ( ount ot how that kiialif, for the political reason just mentioned, attempted to make the i'rue Believers circumambulate the Rock at Jerusalem, in place of the Black Stone in the Ka'abah at Makkah. Had the attempt succeeded, the Khalif would thereby have instituted annual rites of pilgrimage in Jerusalem on the pattern of ti n which, since the Prophet's days, had been jier- formed in the Makkah Haram ; and the golden stream of pilgrim offerings and fees would have flowed into 'Ahd al Malik's treasury, instead of into the pockets of the inhabitants of Makkah, who * Jerusalem the City of He rod and Saiadin^ by W. Besanl and E. II. I'almer, J 871, p. 78. 8—2 Digitized by Google tt6 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, were at this time supporting the claims of his rival, Ibn Zubair, to the Khalifate. Had 'Abd al Malik's attempt succeeded, it is a question whether Jerusalem might not then have become the capital of the Omayyads^ in place of Damascus. As events turned out, the Khalif failed to divert the Muslim pilgrimage to the Holy City of Palestine, and Makkah did not lose its pre- eminence as the religious centre of Islam, even when Ibn Zubair was defeated and slain, and Damascus was made the seat of the Omayyad Khalifate. To return, however, to the historian Ya'kAbt. The passage of his writings relating to the building of the Dome of the Rock is the following : *' Then 'Abd al Malik forbade the people of Syria to make the pilgrimage (to Makkah); and this by reason that Abd Allah ibn az Zubair was wont to seize on them during the time of the pilgrimage, and force them to pay him allcLriance — which, 'Abd al Malik having knowledge of, forbade the peojile to journey forth to Makkah. But the people murmured thereat, saying, * How dost thou forbid us to make the pilgrimage to Allah's house, seeing that the same is a commandment of Allah upon us ?' But the Khalif answered them, ' Hath not Ibn Shihab az Zuhri* told you how the Apostle of Allah did say : Mfn shall journey to hut thru Masjids (mosqueSi ftantely), Al Masjid Haram {at Makkah)^ my Masjid {at Madinah)^ and the Afasjid of the Holy City {wAick is Jerusalem) ? So this last is now appointed for you (as a place of worship) in lieu of the Masjid al Haram (of Makkah). And this Rock (the Sakhrah of Jerusalem;, of which it is reported that upon it the Apostle of Allah set his foot when he ascended into heaven, shall be unto you in the place of the Ka'abah/ Then *Abd al Malik built above the Sakhrah a Dome, and hung it around with curtains of brocade, and he instituted doorkeepers for the same, and the people took the custom of circumambulating the Rock (as Sakhrah of Jerusalem), even as they had paced round the Ka'abah (at Makkah), and the usage continued thus all the days of the dynasty of the Omayyads." (Vb. Hist., ii. ii.) * A celebrated tra(5i(if)ni^t, who was personally acquainted wi'^i n-jiny of the Prophet's ( 'ompanior.s. He clieil in 124 (742), being sevenly twc) or more years old. Mis life is given by ibn Khaliikan, Bio^a^hUal Dictionary^ De Slane's Translation, vol. ii., p. 581. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 117 The above account, of itself, is sufficient to disprove the theory very skilfully aigued by the late Mr. Fergusson, of which the cardinal idea was that this Dome of the Rock (and not the Church of the Sepulchre) represents and stands in the place of the Great (!hurch erected by Constantino, over our i>uid's tomb. Mr. Fergussoii stated that lie based his theory on historical data, as well as on arguments drawn from the architectural style of the building (which in his eyes was j)urely l^y/.aniine), and he roundly asserted that " no Mohammedan writer of any sort, anterior to the recovery of the city from the Christians by Saladin, ventures to assert that his countrymen built the Dome of the Rock,"* a statement which can no longer stand, in view of the authority here quoted. Mukaddasi, who wrote in the year 985, gives another version of the reasons which induced 'Abd al Malik to build the Dome over the Rock, which it may be well to quote at the present point. The paragraph occurs afker the description of the Great Mosque at Damascus, which will be given later on (see Chapter VL). Mukaddasi then continues : Now one day I said, speaking to my father's brother, ' O my uncle, verily it was not well of the Khalif al Walld to expend so much of the wealth of the Muslims on the Mosque at Damascus. Had he expended the same on making roads, or for caravanserais, or in the restoration of the Frontier Fortresses, it woviUl lia\e been more fitting and more excellent of him.' But my uncle said to me in answer, ' ( ) my little son, thou hast not understanding ! Verily Al W'alid was rigiu, and he was prompted to a worthy work. For he beheld Svria to be a country that had long been occupied by the Christians, and he noted herein the beautiful churches still belonging to them, so enchantingly fair, and so renowned for their splendour, even as are the Kumamah (the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem), and the churches of Lydda and Edessa. So he sought to build for the Muslims a mosque that should prevent their regarding these, and that should be unique and a wonder to the world. And in like manner is it not evident how • See his article on Jerusalem in Dr. Smith's *' Dictionary of the Bible," vol. L, p. 1030. Digitized by Gopgle PALESTINE VNDLIi THE MOSLEMS. the Khalif 'Abd al Malik, noting the greatness of the Dome of the (Holy Sepulchre called) Al Kutn^mah and its magnificence, was moved lest it should dazzle the minds of the Muslims, and hence erected above the Rock, the Dome which now is seen there?"'* (Muk., 159.) That the Khalif 'Abd al Malik was the builder of the Dome of the Rock is further confirmed by the well-known inscription which may siill be read al)ovL' tlic cornice of the octagonal colon- nade supporting the Cupola Running round tiii.^ is a magnificent Cufic script, in yellow on blue tiles, which must have been placed here l)y 'Al)d al Malik at the time when his building was com- plcied. It i.- dated A.fi. 72 (691). Unfortunately, some of the tiles were apparently taken out about a century and a half later when, in the days of the Khalif al Mamiin, son of Harun ar Rashid, the Dome underwent restoration, and in their j)lace other tiles, but of a darker blue, have been substituted, bearing the name of Al MamAn in place of that of 'Abd al Malik. This fraudulent substitution, or forgery, perpetrated presumably by the courtly architect of the Abbasides, stands, however, self-confessed — by the forgers having omitted to alter the date of 'Abd al Malik's reign, that is» the year 72 a. h. Al M4mAn, whose name they have substituted immediately before this date, was only bom in A.H. 170, and was Khalif from a.h. 198 — 218. Also, as noted above, the colouring of the newer tiles is of a darker tint, which does not correspond with the blue of the earlier tiles. Further, the inserted letters (of Al Mamdn's name and titles), being too nuiuerou> for the space at command, have had to be clo.ser set than are those in the original portions of the inscription. To make all this as clear as is possible to the I^^nglish reader, the following translation of the inscription is jjrinted in capitals to represent the sijuare Cutlc script. In this the three lines give the words as they stand at the present day. The letters placed closer together represent the forged part of the inscription in the Arabic, much crowded as to space, and written on the darker tiles. These have been substituted by the architects of Al M4m(in. The letters • See also p. 98, where Mukaddasi speaks again of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and of the Aksa having been built to rival this in magniAcence. Digitized by Google JEKUSALEM. 119 added below the second line indicate the inscription that probably stood in the place of these substituted tiles, the letters of 'Abd al Malik^s name being spaced out to bring them even with those in the remainder of the inscription.'* "hath built this dome the servant of ALLAH 'ABOMJiHTHEMlillALliilllDNOOMM ANDER OF THE FAITHFUL DAL MALIK C IN THE YEAR TWO AND SEVENTY — ALLAH ACCEPT OF HIM T Another dated inscription has also been discovered in the Dome of the Rock, stamped on each of the bronze plates which are attached lo the lintels above the four outer doors facing the car- dinal points of the octagonal building. The date given is 216 a.h., corresponding to 831 a.d. These are also written in a fine Cufic script, and relate, in all probability, to the very restoration uiuier Al Mamftn's orders, during which the falsification just des( ribed of 'Abd al Malik's great tile-inscription was perpetrated. The inscrip- tion on the plates may be translated as follows :t ^* According to what hath commanded the scn^ant of Allah ^Abd AUak^ the Im&m Al Mdm^n^the Commander of the Faithful -may Allah prolm^ his existenee ! — and under the gmfemorsMp of the brother of the Commander of the Faithfid, Abu Ishdh^ the sm of the Commander of the Faithful Ar Rashid—me^ AUah lengthen his (Abu IshAl^s) life! And it hath been aeeomplished at the hands of Sdiih ibn Yafya^ Freedmnn of the Commander of the Faithful, in the month RabP al Ahhir of the year two hundred and sixteen*^ Al M^iln reigned fifom 813 (198) to 833 (218), when he was succeeded by the brother here mentioned, Abu Ish&k, who, on becoming Khalif, took the name of Al Mu'tasim. Abu Ishak lived on excellent terms with his brother, the Khalif Al Mamiin, and, • A beautiful chromo-Iilh>)t,'rai)hic facsimile of the orlpnal Cufic text of this inscription is given liy M. ilc \ <);4uJ on |)Inte x\i. of his work /.r Trmph' Jhmmkm. it is al^i printed (in the Cufic ( 'haracter) on p. 88 of the vr.himc on JerusaUm^ publtshetl i>y the Palestine Exploration Fund. A lithographic ffliaimile may also be leen on the plate facing p. 484 of the fourtmt Asiatttfiu^ vol. ix., Hmtihne Strie^ 1887. f The text kgivcD tqr M. dc Vogfi^ firvsaiem^ p. 86. Digitized by Google I20 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. during the very year given in the inscription, the Chronicles* relate that he cohiinanded a body of troops in Al M&mQn*8 expe- dition against the Greeks, and afterwards came with the IChalif to visit Damascus. It is not, however, stated that he was at that time Governor of Syria (as the inscription rather implies), but he was, probably, already the recognised hcir-appareiU, and, as such, doubtless, his name appear^ on these lintels. The earliest detailed tlescription of the Dome of the Rock, is that left us by Ibn al Fakili in the year 905 (290). As will be seen from the Plan of the Harani Area (at the end of Chnpter the octagonal building supporting the Dome stands at about the centre- point of a square-shaped platform This platform is of a man's height above the general level of the court of the Hanim Area, and , is ascended by stairways. On the platform, besides the Dome of the Rock, stand several other very much smaller Domes. The de- scription of these will be given in more detail at a later page. (See Chapter IV.) Ibn al Faklh apeaks of all these edifices in the following terms : In the middle of the Haram Area is a platform, measuring 300 ells in length, by 140 ells across, and its height is 9 ells. It has six flights of stairways, leading up to the Dome of the Rock. The Dome rises in the middle' of this platform. The ground-plan of the same measures 100 ells by 1 00, its height is 70 ells, and its circumference is 360 ells. In the Dome every night they light 300 lamps, I: has four gates roofed over, and at e.u h gate are four door-i, and over eac h gate is a portico of marble. The stone of the Rock measures 34 ells by 27 ells, and under the Ivuck is a cavern m which the people pray. 1 his ( avern is capable of con- taining sixty-two persons. (The edifice of) the Dome is covered with white marble, and ils roof with red gold. In its walls, and liigh in (the drum), are fifty-six windows {ifdif)^ glazed with glass of various hues; each measures 6 ells in the height, by 6 spans across. The Dome, which was built by 'Abd al Malik ibn Marw&n is supported on twelve piers and thirty pillars. It con- sists of a dome over a dome (that is, an inner and an outer)^ on which are sheets of lead and white marble (below). * Ibo al Athir, vi. 295. Digitized by Google r JERUSALEM, lai ** To the east of the Dome of the Rock stands tiie Dome of the Chain. It is supported by twenty marble columns, and its roof is covered with sheets of lead. In front of it (again to the cast), is the i'^a)In^ Suuiun of Al Khidr (St. (ieorge or Elias). The platform occ upic> the middle of the Haram Area. To the north is the Dome of the Prophet, and the Station of (lahriel ; near the Rock is the Dome of the Asccnsi(jn." (I. F., loo, loi.) With this descri|)tion of the year 903, the Dome of the Rock as it now stands, tallies to a remarkable degree. The ell then in use was that known as the jDhinV Maiiki\ or royal ell, which may be estimated as approximately equivalent to iS inches. The perimeter of the octagonal walls stated at 360 eUs» gives 45 ells^ or 67i feet for the length of each face of the octagon ; the measure- ment to-day is 66 feet. The measurement of 100 ells by the like^ for the ground-plan, corresponds felrly well alsOi since the space between the thresholds of the opposite doors, north and south, or east and west, measures almost exactly 150 feet. The height, given at 70 ells, or 105 feet, shows that the Dome was in these early times of much the same height as is the present one, built after the earthquakes, which measures 112 feet from floor to pinnacle. The four gates and ihur porticos are exactly what is found at the present day, as also is the Rock itself and the Cavern below it. A more remarkal)le coincidence is afforded by the number of the windows mentioned l)y Ibn al Fakih. In the present edifice there are sixteen stained-j;lass windows, jiicrced in the drum under the Dome, and below this are five opemngs in each of the eight side walls forming the octagon. This ( 5 times 8 added to 16) gives hfty-six for total, the exact number mentioned by Ibn al Fakih as existing in the year 903. In the matter of the colunms supporting the Dome, some change in the number and arrangement appears to have taken place at various times since the year 903, probably during the many restorations after the shocks of earthquake. The twelve piers mentioned still exist as described by Ibn al Fakih, a reference to the present pkm (facing p. 1 14) showing four piers in the inner circle supporting the Dome, and eight in the outer Digitized by Google 122 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. circle marking the angles of the octagon. The number of the minor pillars, however, is not so exact. At the present day there are three pillars between each of the four piers of the inner circle, and two pillars between each of the eight pieis of the outer circle. This gives a total for the present pillars of twenty-t^ight, and Ibn al Faklh says there were thirty in his day. The difference, however, is not very material. On this subject of the number of the piers and pillars, it may be well to note the cietails j^iven by the Spanish Arab Ibn 'Abd Rabbih, who wrote about this same neriod {ana A.M. 300, A.D. He states that *' within the Sakiirah (or Dome of the Rock) are thirty columns, and the columns which are witliout {kharij^ presumably meaning * round ') the Sakhrah (or Rock) are eighteen in number " There is, however, some ambiguity in the term khdrij\ and the numbers agree neither with those given by Ibn al Fakih, his contemporary, nor with those seen at the present day, as shown in the plan (facing p. 1 14). The dimensions Ibn al Fakih gives for the Platform, and his description of the other minor Domes standing on this Plat- form, will be noticed on a subsequent page. (See Chapter IV.) Next in order comes the account of the Dome of the Rock left by Istakhri and Ibn Haukal, three-quarters of a century after the time of Ibn al Faklh. This description of the year 978 has been copied verbatim by the geographer Abu-1-Fid& in his account of Palestine written in 1321 ; and it may V)e oiled as an instance of the uncritical way in which Arab writers plagiarise each from his predecessors. Ibn Haukal and I^taklm write: *' The Holy City is nearly as large at Al Kamlah (the capital of the province of Kilastin). It is a city pcrc hed high on the hills, and you have to i;o u\) to it from all sides. There is here a Mosque, a greater than which does not exist in all Islam. The Main-building (which is the Aks«i Mosque) occupies the south-eastern angle of the Mosque (Area, or Noble Sanctuary), and covers about half the breadth of the same. The remainder of the Haram Area is left free, and is nowhere built over, except in the part around the Rock. At this place there has been raised a stone (terrace) like a platform, of great unhewn blocks, in Digitized by Google JERUSALEM the centre of which, covering the Rock, Is a magnificent Dome. The Rock itself is about breast-high above the ground, its length and breadth being almost equal, that is to say, some lo ells* and odd, hy the same across. You may descend below it by steps, as though going down to a cellar, passing through a door measuring some 5 ells by 10. The chamber below the Rock is neither square nor round, and is above a man's stature in height. " (Is., 56; I. H., in ; A. F., 227.) Mukaddasi, a native of Jerusalem, whose account (985) dates from a few years later than the above by Ibn Haukal, taken with that left by the Persian traveller Nasir, who visited the Holy City in 1047, gives us a detailed and graphic picture of the Dome of the Rock in the century preceding the arrival of the first Crusaders. Mukaddasi, immediately after the description of the Aksa Mosque quoted above (pp. 9^ 99X writes as follows : **The Court (of the Haiam Area) is paved in all parts; in its centre rises a Platform, like that in the Mosque at Al Madinah, to which, from all four sides, ascend broad flights of steps. On this Platform stand four Domes. Of these, the Dome of the Chain, the Dome of the Ascension, and the Dome of the Prophet are of small size. Their domes are covered with sheet* lead, and are supfwrted on marble j)illars, being without walls. **In the centre ot the I'laiform is the Dome of the Rock, which rises above an octagonal building having four gates, one opposite to each of the flights of steps leading up from the Court. These four are the Kiblah (or southern) (iate; the Ciate of (the Angel) Israfil (to the east) ; the Ciate As Siir (or of the Trumpet), to the north ; and the Women s (iate (liab nn Nisn), which last opens towards the west. All these are adorned with gold, and closing each of them is a beautiful door of cedar-wood finely worked in patterns. These last were sent hither by conmoand of the mother of the Khalif Al Muktadir-billah.t Over each of the gates is a porch of marble, wrought with cedar-wood, with brass- work without ; and in this porch, likewise, are doors, but these are unomamented. * Too low .TP. CNtiinatc. t He reigned at liaghdad, 908 to 932. Digitized by Google 124 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. ''Within the building are three concentric colonnades, with columns of the most beautiful marble, polished, that can be seen, and above is a low vaulting. Inside these (colonnades) is the central hall ovt-r liie Rock ; it is circular, not ociagonal, and is surrountlcd 1)V columns of [)(>lished marble supporting circular arches. Jluilt above these, and rising iiigh into the air, is the drum, in which arc large windows ; and over the drum is the I )ome. The Dome, from the floor up to the pinnacle, which rises into the air, is in height loo ells. l- rom afar off you may perceive on the summit of the Dome the beautiful pinnacle (set thereon), the size of which is a fathom and a span. The Dome, cxternaliy, is completely covered with brass plates gilt, while the building itself, its floor, and its walls, and the drum, both within and with* out, are ornamented with marble and mosaics^ after the manner that we shall describe* when speaking of the Mosque of Damascus. The Cupola of the Dome is built in three sections ; the inner is of ornamental panels. Next come iron beams interlaced, set in free, so that the wind may not cause the Cupola to shift ; and the third casing is of wood, on which are fixed the outer plates. Up through the middle of the Cupola goes a passage-way, by which a workman may ascend to the pinnacle for aught that may be wanting, or in order to repair the structure. At the dawn, when the light of the sun first strikes on the (Ai|)ola, and the Drum reflects his rays, then is this edifice a marvellous sight to behold, and one such that in all Islam I have never seen the equal ; neither have I heard tell of aught built in pagan times that could rival in grace this Dome of the Rock." (Muk., 169, 170.) Between the times of Mukaddasi and Nasir, the Holy C ity suflered severely from shocks of earthquake, as reported in the Chronicle of Ibn al Athtr (see above, p. loi), and in the year 1016 (407), as there stated, the Dome over the Rock fell in. The dates of the repairs subsequently undertaken are recorded by two extant inscriptions in the Cupola, the first of which is of a tenor that recalls the one that was read and copied in the Dome of the AksSL Mosque by 'Ali of Herat (see above, p. 102). The Holy City had since the year 969 been in the possession of ♦ See Chapter VI, Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. the Khalif of Cairo, and it was the Fatimite Adh Dhahir who ordered the restorations which were completed in 1022 (413) and 1027 (418), and which are referred to in tlie two following inscriptions. The first is written in the ancient Kannaiic characters, and is to be seen on a beam in the framework of the Dome. M. de Vogii^ has given a facsimile of this inscription on plate xxxvii. of his work, Lg Ttmple de Jerusalem. The following is a translation : "/m the name af AUak^ the Compassumatty the MereifiU. Verily he wh0 Mieveth in Allah restoreth the Mosques of Allah, Hath (ommanded the restaratieu of this Dome^ the Imdm Ahu-l-Hasan 'Alt adh DhdhirH-Vz^g-ad-Dln-Allah, thesotto/Al Hdhim-bi-Amr- lilah^ Commander of the Faithjut-^the bentdidhn of Allah be upon him^ and on his most pure and generous forefathers I This was executed at the hand of his servant the Amir^ the supporter of the Imdms, the sustainer of the State, ^ AH ibn Ahmad In&hat Allah^ in the year 413 (a.d. 1022). May Allah perpetuate the f^lory and the stability of our Master, the Comtnandu of the Faithful, giving him kin^ihip mrr the east and the li'est of the earthy for Him we praise at the bexinuin^ and the e':dini^ of all actions /" The second inscription is to be seen inside the Dome of the Rock on the tile-work. It is unfortunately much mutilated, hut the last few words are plainly legible. M. de Vogiie {Jerusalem, Plate xxiii.) has reproduced it in chromolithograph. The letters are yellow on the dark green ground of the enamelled tile. The last words may be translated : . . . Mr the year four hundred and eij^hteen»* A.H. 418 corresponds with a.d. 1027, which would lead us to suppose that these tiles were put up to replace those damaged by the earthquakes. N&sir-i-Khusrau's account, describing what he saw dtiring his visit to Jerusalem in 10117, is the last we possess prior to the Crusades. It must be noted that the cubit," or '*ell" (as the Persian measures Arsh and Gez are here rendered), is not the JJhirA* Malihiy the royal ell, of 18 inches, but the later Arab ell, equivalent to about 2 feet English measure. At this valuation, Naijir'i, measurements will be found to agree wonderfully exactly Digitized by Google 126 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. with those of the present Dome of the Rock. The arrangement and number of the " piers " and " columns described by Ndsir does not, however, coincide with those seen at the present day. Nasir gives — inner circle : four piers, with two columns (eight in all) between each ; outer circle : eight piers, with three columns (twenty-four in all) between each pier. At the present day there are, on the contrary, three columns between each of the four piers of the inner circle, and two only between each of the eight piers in the outer ring. (See plan facing p. 114.) Hence Nasir's total of the columns (not counting piers) is thirty-two, while the present number is twenty-eight. (See also above, p. 121.) South Door OOMC or THC Chain and Dome or thc Rock, SHOMINC TmC. Ann ANCC MeNT or the PitRS and COLUMNS, ACCOnO'NO TO TMt OCSClPTiON 0*^ NASin - I - KHUSRAU )'« lO^f A 0 After describing the Aksa Mosque, Nasir continues : "The Kubbat as Sakhrah (the Dome of the Rock)— which Rock was, of old, the Kiblah — is so situate as to stand in the middle of thc platform, which itself occupies the middle of the Haram Area. The edifice is built in the form of a regular octagon, and each of its eight sides measures 33 cubits (or 60 feet). There are four gates facing the four cardinal jjoints — namely, east, west, Digitized by Googl JERUSALEM, 127 north, and south ; and between each of these is one of the oblique sides of the octagon. The walls are everywhere coiibLructed of squared stones, and are 20 cubits (or 40 feet in height). The Roek itself measures 100 ells round. It has no regular form, being neither stjuare nor circular ; but is shapeless, like a boulder from the mountains. Beyond the lour sides of the Rock rise four piers of masonry that ecjual in height the walls of the (octagonal) building ; and between every two piers, on the four sides, stand a pair of marble pillars, which aie like to the height of the piers. Resting on these twelve piers and pillars tlie structure of the Dome, under which lies the Rock ; and the circumference of the Dome is 1 30 cubits (or 340 feet).* ** Between the walls of the (octagonal) building; and the circle of piers and pillars -^d by the term *pier' {sut^n) I understand a support chat is built up, and is square ; while the term * pillar ' (ushmdnah) denotes a support that is cut from a single block of stone, and is round — between this inner circle of supports, then, and the outer walls of the edifice, are bui^t eight f other piers of squared stones, and between every two of them are placed, equi- distant, three columns in coloured marble. Thus, while in the inner circle between every two piers there are two colunms, there are here (in the outer circle) between every two j)iers, three columns. On the capital of each pier are set four volutes {s/ii'ik/i), from each ol winch springs an arch ; and on the ea[)ital o( each column are set two volutes, so that every column is the spring of two arches, while at every pier is the spring of four. " 'i'he Great Dome, which rises above the twelve piers standing round the Rock, can be seen from the distance of a league away, * From the very exact pUns in M. de Vogtt^'s Jitusaitm^ the full diameter of the drum of the Dome appears to be %% metrtrs, or 75^ feet. This gives a circumference of 237 feet, which agrees very well with the lao cubits, 240 feet of the text. f The British Museum MS. and M. Schefer's text both give " six ' as the number of piers in the outer circle, but this neither corresponds fvith what follows some lines below (where the total number of piers in the outer and inner circles is stated to be twelve, i.e., four eight), nor with the actual condition of the Dome of tlic Rock, which nppnrently never hnd more thnn four ])icrs in the inner, and eigiii in the outer circle, a number necessitated by the octagonal shape of the building. Digitized by Google 138 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. rising like the summit of a mountain. From the base of the Dome to its pinnacle measures 30 cubits, and this rises above the (octagon .•'■) walls that are 20 ells high, lor the Dome is su])|)orted on the |)illars that are like in height to the outer walls ; and the whole building rises on a platform that itscU is 12 ells high, so that from the level of the Court of the Noble Sanctuar)- to the summit of the Dome measures a total of 62 ells (or 124 feet).* The roofmg and the ceiling of this edifice arc both in woodwork ; this is set above the piers, and the pillars, and the walls, after a fashion not to be seen elsewhere. The Rock itself rises out of the floor to the height of a man, and a balustrade of marble goes round alK)ut it, in order that none may lay his hand thereon. The Rock inclines on the side that is towards the Kiblah (or south], and there is an appearance as though a person had walked heavily on the stone when it was soft like clay, whereby the imprint of his toes had remained thereon. There are on the Rock seven such footmarks, and I heard it stated that Abraham — peace be upon him l^was once here with Isaac — upon him be peace ! — when he was a boy, and that he walked over this place, and that the footmarks were his. *' In tb.e house of the Dome of the Rock men arc always con- gregated— pilgrims and worshippers. The place is laid with fine carpets of silk and other stuffs. In the middle of the Dome, and over the Rock, there hangs from a silver chain a silver lamp ; and there are in other parts of the building great numbers of silver lamps, on each of which is inscribed its weight. These lamps arc all the gift of the (Fatimite Khalif, who is) Sultan of Eg)'pt; and, according to the calculations I made, there must be here in silver Utensils of various kinds of the weight of a thousand Manns (or about a ton and a half). I saw there a.huge wax Liper that was 7 cubits high, and 3 spans in diameter. It was (white) like the * I note ihis as the principal passage for proving that Na»ir-i-Khusrau uses the terms get, ** ell," and arsA^ " cubit,'' synon) niou>ly. On a previous page h« has said that the platform is twelve arsA high ; here he says it measures twelve and this added to tweiiiy .^v : (walls) and to thitty ars/t (dome)make$ sixty- two /;ez. 'I'liL- hci^'ht of the I) 'inc of the Kock at the present day, measuring from floor iu summu <if ilumc, is, rouyhly, 112 fret. Nasir estimates it (deduct- ing the height ul the platform) at 50 cWs ur cubits, equivalent to 100 feet. Digitized by Googlk JERUSALEM, 129 camphor of /.baj," and the (wax) was mixed with ambergris. They told nic thai ilic Sultan of Egypt sent hither every year agreat number of tapers, and, among the rest, the laryc one just described, on which the name of the Sultan was written in golden letters. "As 1 have said before, all the roof and the exterior })arts of the Dome of the Rock are covered with lead. At each of the four sides of the Dome of the Rock is set a great gate, with double folding-doors of Sij-wood (or teak). These doors are always kept closed. They say that on the night of bis ascent into Heaven, the Prophet — ^pcace and benediction be upon him I — prayed first in the Dome of the Rock, laying bis band upon the . Rock. And as he came forth, the Rock, to do him honour, rose up, but the Prophet — ^peace and benediction be upon him 1 — ^laid his hand thereon to keep it in its place, and firmly fixed it there. Hut, by reason of this uprising, even to the present day, it is here partly detached (from the ground below). The Prophet — the peace of Allah be upon him, and His benediction ! — went on thence and amie to the Dome, which is now called after him, and there he moimted (the steed) l>urak , and for this reason is that Dome venerated. Underneath the Ruck is a large cavern, where they continually burn tai)er^; and they say that when the Kock moved in order to rise up (iii honour of the Prophet), this space below was left void, and that when the Rot k became tixed, it so remained, even as may now be seen." (N. Kh., 44-50.) Of the Rock itself, Nasir gives the following account : " This stone, of the Sakhrah, is that which God — be I le exalted and glorified ! — commanded Moses to institute as the Kiblah (Of direction to be faced at prayer). After this command had come down, and Moses had instituted the Sakhrah as the Kiblah ; he himself lived but a brief time, for of a sudden was his life cut short Then came the days of Solomon — upon him be peace! — who, seeing that the Rock of the Sakhrah was the Kiblah-point, built a Mosque round about the Rock, whereby the Rock stood in the midst of the Mosque, which became > • ZibSj, or Zahij, according to the author of the A/arJs/if, is the name of the country in the furlher parts of India, on the frontiers of China, Cochin China I?). o ♦ Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, the oratory of tlie people. So it remained down to the days of our Propliet Muhammad, the Chosen One — upon him he hle^s!n,:^s rind peace ! — who hkcwise at first recognised this Rock to be the Kiblah, turning towards it at his prayers ; but God — be He exalted and glorified !— afterwards (in the month Rajab of the second year of the Hijrah) commanded him to institute as the Kiblah the House of the Ka'abah (at Makkah)." (N. Kh., 27.) The Author of the Muthir^ writing in 1351, notes the occur- rence of what he deemed a remarkable event, which happened a few years after Nlsir's visit He writes "In the year 452 (a.d. 1060) the Great Lantern (Tanniir) that hung in the Dome of the Rock fell down, and there were in this Lantern five hundred lamps. Those of the Muslims who were at Jerusalem augured therefrom, saying, ' Of a surety there will happen some portentous event in Islam.' " In 1099 the Crusaders took Jerusalem, and the Dome of the Rock, considered by them to be the Tcmpluui JJomi/it\ jxissed to the Knights Templar. Holding this building to be the veritable Temple of the Lord, its figure was emblazoned by the Knidits on tlveir armorial l)carings, and in both plan and elevation the edifice came to be reproduced by the Templars in the various Temple Churches which the Order caused to be built in Lx)ndon, Laon, Metz, and other cities throughout Europe. In Raphael's famous picture of the Sposalizio^ preserved in the Brera Gallery at Milan, the Spousals of the Virgin are represented as taking place before the Gate of the Temple, which Temple is a fairly exact representation of the polygon of the Dome of the Rock. The Sicilian geographer IdHst, in 11 54, gives a short description of the Dome ; but he himself had never visited Palestine, and he most probably made up his account from descriptions dating from the beginning of the eleventh century. He writes : " In the centre of the (Court of the) Mosque rites the mighty Dome, known as the Kubbat as Sakhrah (the Dome of • The Arabic text is given in my paper in llie Journal of the Royal Aiiatic Society, New Series, vol. xix., p. 304. This paragraph is copied verbatim by SuyfitI {J^wmal of the Royal Asiaiic Soctety, tdI. riV., pb «od aho hy Mojtr ad Din (Curo Text, p. 270). The Chrooicles, it may be noted, ne&tlim ao carthqnake «s occanriog in this year. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. the Rock). This Dome is overlaid with gold mosaic, and is of most beautiful workmanship, erected by the Muslim Khalifs. In its midst is the Rock (the Sakhrab), which is said to have fallen down (from heaven). It is a mass of stone of the height of the Platform, and occupies the centre under the Dome. The extremity of one of its sides rises above the floor to half a man's height or more^ while the other side lies even with the level (of the Platform). The length of the Rock is nearly equal to its breadth, and is some to ells and odd by the like. You may descend into the lower part thereof, and go down into a dark chaml>cr, like a cellar, the length of which is lo ells, by 5 in width, and the ceiling reaches above a man's height. No one can enter this clianiber except with a lamp to light him. The Pome (of the Rock) has four Gates. The \\'cstcrn (^atc has opposite to it an Altar, whereon the Children of Israel were wont to offer up their sacrifices. Near the Eastern Gate of the Dome is the Church, which is called the Holy of Holies — it is of an admirable size. Opposite to the Northern Gate (of the Dome of the Rock) is a beautiful Garden, planted with all sorts of trees, and round this Garden is set a colonnade of marble of most wondrous workmanship. In the further part of this Garden is a place 4if assembly, where the priests and deacons are wont to take their repasts." (Id., 7.) This Garden df the Priests, mentioned also by 'Ali of Herat (see p. 133), is, doubtless, the House of the Augustinian Canons established here by Godfrey de Bouillon. Perhaps this may have occupied the site of the Cloister of the Sitfis " mentioned by Ndsir i-Khusrau in 1047 (see Chapter V., Gates of the Harara Area), The Cliurch of tlie iioly of lIoHcs is the huildiiiL: i;ic Mu.slims call the Dome of the Chain, of which a description will be given in the fuiiuwing chapter. The Altar of the Children of Israel is apparently of Christian invention, and corresponds lo no Muslim edifice ; it is mentioned in the Citez de Jh^rusalcm* (about 1225), and by ottier Cliristian writers, one of whom states that the ^raccns ultimately turned it into a sundial. 'AU of Herat, who visited the Holy City in 11 73, fifteen years * PaktHiu POgrimi Text^ ^ 37. Digitized by Google 133 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, before it was retaken by Salndin, has left us a full description of what he saw in the Dome of the Rock. He notes the iron railing put round the Rock by the Crusaders in place of the marble balustrade mentioned by Nsisir-i-Khusrau. Portions of this iron "grille" still exist, and an illustration depicting it will be found in M. de Vogii^'s Jemsa/e/tL The chamber under the Rock 'Ali calls The Cave of the Souls." The present tradition asserts that the Sir al Arw&h, **The Well of the Souls,*' is not this chamber, but a well hollowed in the rock below its pavement. 'All's description of the Dome represents exactly what is seen at the present day, the detail of the arrangement and number of the piers and columns, in the inner and outer circle, supporting the Dome, as given in his text, beini; identical with what is shown in the present plan. The earlier accounts, it will be rcincnibered, varied on these points of detail. When the alteration occurred is unknown. The ell with which 'Ali of Herat takes his measure- ments is presumably the royal ell of iS inches, or somewhat less. 'Ali of Herat writes : "The Kul)l)at ns Sakhrnh (meanini^ the Rock under the Dome) has upon it the (imprint of) the footmark of the I Vophet Now I went and saw the Rock in the days of the Frank dominion, and what was to be seen of it then lay in the north part of the Dome only. Round it was a railing of iron. At the present time, since Saladin's reconquest of the Holy City, the Rock appears to the south also, under the Dome. There is all around, below it, a border, which Is covered with enamelled- work. The Rock is here a span in breadth, and its height is of 2 ells. Its circumference is over 4 ells. Underneath the Rock is the Oive of the Souls {Mnghdrat al Arwdh), They say that Allah will bring together the souls of all True Believers to this spot. You descend to this Cave by some fourteen steps, and they state that the grave of Zakariyyah — peace be upon him ! — is here in tins Cave. The Cave of tlic Souls is of the height of a man. lu width extends 11 pac es from east to west, and 13 paces from north to south. In its roof is an aperture towards the east, the si/e of which is an ell and a half across. The ein uni- ferenrc of the Cavern is 5 ells. The building of the Dome of the Rock has four doors^ and I visited the place in the year 569 (i 173), Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 133 during the time of the Frank dominion, as before stated. Opposite the door kadi rig to the Cave of the Souls, and near to the iron railing, was, in these days, a picture of Solomon, son of David. Also near to the iron railing, and to the west of the Leaden Gate, but above it, was the picture of the Messiah all studded over with jewels. ''The Gate (of the Dome of the Rock) to the east opens towards the Dome of the Chain. Above it is an arch, on which is inscribed the name of the Khaltf Al Kiim-bi-Amr-IUah, and the chapter (cxii., of the Kur^n), called Ikhl&s — that is, * Sincerity.* To the east of the Dome of the Rock is, as aforesaid, the Dome of the Chain ; it is here Solomon, the son of David, administered justice. To the north of the Dome of the Rock was the House of the Priests al Kusns), which building is supported on columns.'^ The (octagonal) Colonnade round the Dome of the Rock is supported on sixteen ( olunins of niarl)le, and on eight piers ; and the Dome within this is supported on four piers and twelve columns. In the circumference (of the Drum) are sixteen gxated windows. The circumference of the Dome is 160 ells (240 feet). The perimeter of the great edifice which comprehends all these (pillars, and the Dome, and which is the octagonal building), measures 400 ells minus 16 ells (384 ells, or 576 feet). A line gomg round the whole building (of the Dome of the Rock), and including the Dome of the Chain and what pertains thereto of other buildings, would measure 482 ells (or 723 feet). The height of the iron grating which surrounds the Rock is twice that of a man. There are four iron gates to the Dome of the Rock — one (north) towards the Bab ar Rahmah (Gate of Mercy, the ancient (iolden Gate) ; one (west) towards the Bab Jibrail : one towards the Kiblah (south) ; and one (east) towards the Dome of the Chain. The Dome of the Clmin measures 60 paces round." (A. H., Oxf. MSS., ff. 35-38.) In 1 187 Jerusalem was retaken by Saladin, who, as has been descril)ed above (p. 109), effected a complete restoration of the Haram Area to its pristine condition. Of the state into which the Rock had come through the zeal of the Franks for the * * See p. 131. Digitized by Google 134 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, acquisition of relics, the Chronicle of Ibn al Athir gives the following account under the year 583 a.h. Possibly the " border " described by 'Ali of Herat as running all round the Rock (see above, p. 132) is the covering of pavement which Saladin ordered to be removed. Ibn al Athir writes : " Now the Fianks had covered the Rock with a marble pavement, and this Saladin ordered to be removed. And the reason whereby they had thus covered it with a pave- ment ^-as this : In the earlier times their priests had been used to (break off and) sell pieces of the Rock to the Frank (pilgrims) who came from beyond the sea on pilgrimage ; for these would buy the same for its weight in gold, believing that there lay therein a blessing. But seeing this, certain of the (1 .atiji) kings, fearing lest the Rock should all disappear, ordered thai it should be paved over to keep it safe." (Ibn al .^thtr, ix. 365.) After Saladin had completed his restoration, he set up inside the cupola of the Dome, al)ove the Rock, a beautiful inscription in tile-work on a series of bands and medallions, which may still be seen t'n situ. The Arabic text of this long inscription, of which the following is a translation, will be found in M. de Vogti6*s work,* so often referred to. The text does not run continuously ; but the following numbers (referring to the paragraphs of the translation) show the order in which the bands and medallions — running, of course, from right to left, following the Arabic writing — stand each to the other inside the Drum below the cupola. Besides Saladin's inscription, there are also two others, set up at a much later date, in the spaces at first left vacant. 13. 12. 7. II. 6. 10. 5. 9. 16. 8. 4. 3. 15. 2. 14. I. X, "/« the name of AUah^ the Compassionate, the Mtrdjul^ haih commanded the renewal of the gliding of this 2. NobU Dome, mtr Master tAe Su/tan, the vietoriaus King^ 3. the sagtt the just Sal&h ad Din Yiksuf^ 4. In the name of Ailahy the Compassionate^ the Merdfui $. , . , in the tatter third the month Rajah of the year 585, 6. the hand of Goi^s poor servitor StdSth ad Din 7, YHsufidn Ayyiib ibn SMtdi^ may Allah encompass him in Mis merey/** * Le Temple de firmalemt pp« 9t, 92. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. t35 It will be convenient to add here the translations of the two other inscriptions, which are found on the bands and medallions, interspersed with Sa1adin*s great inscription. The first of these commemorates the restoration by order of the Mamhik Sultan of Egypt, Muhammad ibn Kali'dn, in a.h. 718 and 719(1318 and 1 3 19), The second was set up in our own days by the Sultan of Turkey, Mahmfid II. The tiles coiiUmiin<^ the Jaic of this last inscription have been injured, and only the centuries (12** a.h.) can be read. Sultan Mahniud II. reigned from a.h. 1223 — 1255 (iao8— 1839). 8. " ffath €omma$ided the reneu»al of the gilding 0/ this I}ome, together with the restoration of the outer Dome of had 9. Our Master . . . Afdsir ad Dunya wa ad Din, 10. the Sultan oj the world^ who staid isheth tlie pillars of the noble Law^ i I. titc Sultan of islam^ Muhammad tlu son of the Sultan and Martyr 12. Al Malik Al Mansftr Kalauny may Allah encompass him in His fnern' ! And this {restoration took place) during the months of the year 7 1 8 13. And it tvas done under the superintendence of the poor senntor oJ Allah — be He exalted ! — the assiduous, noble 14. and illustrious Jaw&li^ Inspector of the Two Noble SanctuarieSy — 15. May AUah give him pardon ! And this in the year 719" 16. " Hath commanded the gilding of this J Jo me, and the restora- tion of the external Dome, our Master the Sultan MahmOd Khem, In the year la** " The traveller Ibn BatOtah, who visited Jerusalem in the year 1355, gives but few new details of the Dome of the Rock. He expatiates on the marvellous beauty of the building, and notes the four great gates and the interior of the I^ome, ornamented with gUding and colours. After describing the Rock, and mentioning the cavern below it, he continues, " Round the rock there arc two gratings set here to guard it Of these the one nearest the Rock Digitized by Google 136 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. is of iron, the other of wood. In the Dome there is hung up a great Buckler of iron, and the people say this was the Buckler of Hnmzah ibn *Abd al Mutallib (the uncle of the Prophet)." (I. B., 1. 12 J, 123.) Mujir ad Uin states that, in the year 1448 (851), the roof of the Dome of the Rock was destroyed by fire, and wns restored by Sultan al Mah'k adh l)h:'dnr, "so as to be more bcnutiTul even than it had l)een aforelinies." (M. a. D., 443.) The cause of the fire is said by some authorities to liave been a thunderbolt, which fell in the southern part of the edifice. Others state that the building was set on fire by a boy, who had gone under the roof with a candle to catch some pigeons. SuyOti, writing in 1470, gives the following account of the Rocky and the wonders shown in its vicinity: "The Footprint seen here is that of the Prophet when he mounted the«steed Al Burak to ascend into heaven. In Crusading times it was called Christ's Footprint. The Tongue is said to have been given to the Rock when it addressed the Khalif 'Omar in welcome ; and the Marks of the angel Gabriers Fingers are those left when the Rock, wishing to accompany the Prophet to heaven, had to be pushed down and kept in its place. "The place of the Noble Footprint may be seen at this day on a stone thai is separate from the Rock, and oj)|)osite to it, on the further side, which is to the south west. '1 his stone is su imported on a column. The Rock, at this present day, forms the walls enclosing the eave (that is, beneath it) on all sides, c.xrein only the part which lies to the south, wlicre is the opening into tlie Cave. 1 he Rock here does not come up to the south side of the Cave, for between the two is an open space. From the entrance down into the Cave lead stone steps for descending thereto. On these stairs is a small shelf, near where the pilgrims stop to visit the Tongue of the Rock. At this spot is a marble column, the lower part of which rests on the south portion of the shelf aforesaid, while its upper part abuts against the Rock, as though to prevent its giving way towards the south— or maybe it is for some other purpose— and the portion of the Rock that lies below supports it. The Place of the Angelas Fingers is on the western side of the Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. "37 Rock, and is distinct from the Place of the Noble Footstep already mentioned. It lies close to^ and over against, the western gate of the Sakhrah (or Dome of the Rock).'' (S., 258; copied by M. a. D., 371.) All these various marvels are shown in the Dome of the Rock at the present day, and occupy the same positions as they did in 1470 when Suyftti wrote. In conclusion, the following measurements are of some interest. They are given by Mujir ad Din, and api)ear to have beeii »^ arc- fully taken by him at the lime when he wrote his description of Jerusalem in 1496. The "workman's ell," as before slated, measures somewhat over 2/, feet. "The huikliniir of the Dome of the Rock is octagonal. The outer perimeter is 240 ells, while the inner is 224 cUs, measuring with the workman's ell. "The Dome is 51 ells high, measured from the pavement to the summit. The Platform, on which the Dome of the Rock stands^ is 7 ells above the level of the Court ; thus the summit of the Dome is 58 ells above the Area of the Noble Sanctuary. The Dome is supported by twelve pillars and by four piers (in the inner ring)." (M. a. D., 370, 371.) Digitized by Google CHAPTER IV. JERUSALEM, 'J'laditioual AccoufUs : 'Omar's finding oi the Kock — The Service instituted by the Khalif*Abdal Malik. Tike Dom* of the CheUn: Minor domes— The plfltforn and stairways— The C ourt and the Haram Area — ^The Cradle of Jesus and Stables of Solomon — Minor buildings-^Minarcts. TRiVUlTlONAL ACCOUNTS. In the preceding chapter, the history of the Dome of the Kock and the Aks& Mosque has been recounted from the earliest avail- able Arab sources, namely, the Chronicles and Geographies (dating from the third and fourth centuries of the Hijrah), and the accounts of the first Muslim pilgrims, who described their visits to Jerusalem. With the foregoing it will be found interesting to compare the traditional accounts (apocryphal in detail, and pro- bably first reduced to writing at a period subsequent to the Crusades), which profess to give detailed notices of the Khalif Oiuur's re-discovcry of the Rock, and of the services iiastituted by the Kliaht Aljd al Mahk after he had erected the Dome over it. These accounts, as far as I have been able to discover, are first given in the work called the Muih'ir al Ghirain (see p. ii), which was composed in 1351 (752), close on seven hundred years after tlie days of 'Abd al Malik, and considerably over the seven centuries after the date of 'Omar. The author of the Muthir wrote in the period succeeding the Crusades, when the Franks had recently been ejected from the Holy Land ; and at this date, what may be called Historical Romances (as, for instance, the " History " of the Pseudo-W4kidt, and others), were much in vogue throughout the countries that Saladin and his successors had so recently liberated Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 139 from the Frank dommion. The reconquest of Palestine by Saladin, tecalled the incidents of the first Muslim conquest under 'Omar ; and possibly there were still, in the fourteenth century^ some histoncal traditions which may have formed the groundwork on which the following narratives were composed. There is, as will be observed, in the Muthir^ a learned nffccta tion of citing authorities, giving the account as on the nviihority of so-and-so, who had it from his father, and his gmntlfaihcr, \v1k» heard so-and-so relate, etc., etc. This, however, is merely the usual Arab way of citing the tradition, atid in tlic present case practically means nothing, since no authority can be found for these stones earlier than the author of the Mutiny liimself. These accounts, as given in the Muth'ir, have been freely plagirirised !)y succeeding writers. Shams ad Din SuyOti (1470) quoted from the Muthlr verbatim, and Mujirad Din, in 1496, copied out the whole once again, adding here and there some few amplifications.* In the following pages the order of the pan^praphs tn the MtUhlr is not kq>t to, the narrative in my translation being ananged to suit the sequence of events. *Omat^s Conquest {AfutMr^ chapter v.f)— AI Waltd % states on the authority of Sa'id ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz, diat the letter of the Prophet had come to the Kaisar (Csesar) while he was sojourn- ing at the Holy City, Now at that time there was over the Rock of tlic Holy City a great duiigheai), which comjiletely masked the Mihrab of David, and which i>amc the Christians had put here in oider to offend the Jews, and further, even, the Christian women were woiu to throw here their cloths and clouts, SO that it was all heaped up therewith. Now, when Caesar had • The Arabic text, taken from the Paris MSS. of the Mulhtr, of which tlie following is a translation, is printed in my paper on Suyuli in Jourun! r/thf Rayal Asiatic Society, vol. xix., pnrt ii., where the whole subject o( ihQ AJutAfr's authorities will be found discussed at length. t Quoted by S., 278. t Al Waltd ilm Muslim, 00 whose authority most of these accounis rest, was m celebrated traclitionist, a native of Damascus, and died aged sereoty-three (according to Naw^wi, WustcnfcM'^ Te\t, p. 618) in a.h. 194 or 195(810). § In the seventh year of the Ilijrah, the Prophet despatched envoys to the Chu&roes (Khusru Parniz) uf I'ersia, and to the Caesar of Byzantium, calling on them forthwith to acknowled^ his miaskm as Allah's Apostle. Digitized by Google I40 PALES J IN a UNDER THE MOSLEMS. perused the letter of the Prophet, he cried and said : * O, ye men of Greece, verily ye are the people who shall be slain on this dung- heap, because that ye have desecrated the sanaity of this Mosque. And it shall be with you even as it was with the Children of Israel, who were slain for reason of the blood of Yahy& ibn Zakariyyi (John the Baptist).' Then the Caesar commanded them to clear the place, and so they began to do : but when the Muslims in- vaded Syria. u;il) a third j)art thereof had been cleared. Xow, when "Oninr liad conic to the Holy ("ity and conquered it, and saw how there was a dunghcap over liic Rock, he regarded it as horrible, and ordered that it should be entirely cleared. And to accomplish this they forced the Nabath.Tans of Palestine to labour without pay. On the authority of Jabir ibn Nafir, it is related that when 'Omar first exposed the Kock to view by removing the dungheap, he commanded them not to pray there until three showers of heavy rain should have fallen." It is related as coming from Shadid ibn Aus, who accompanied 'Omar when he entered the noble Sanctuary of the Holy City on the day when Allah caused it to be reduced by capitulation, that 'Omar entered by the Gate of Muhammad, crawling on his hands and knees, he and all those who were with him, until he came up to the Court (of the Sanctuary). There he looked around to right and to left, and, glorifying Allah, said : ' By Allah, verily this — ^by Him in whose hand is my soul \ — must be the Mosque of David, of whirli the Aposllc spake to us, saying, / 7ifas conducted thither ill the fii^^ht Journey.^ Tlien 'Omar advanced to tlic lore (or southern) part of the Ilaratn Area, and to the western side thereof, and he said : * Let us make this the place for the Mosque. • With this and the follow iiif^ nrronnts of 'Omar's fir?.t visit lo the Temple Area, accompanied I)y the I'alriareh of Jcni<:a!ein, it will be interesting to compare the narrative of the Byzantine historian Theophanes, who wrote his Chroiwsraphia in the eighth oenlury A.D. (see note to p. 92), more than five hundred jrears, therefore, hefore the author of the Aittiktr^ who is our sole authority for the Muslim tradition. The Greek ori(;innl, of which the folhnving is a translation, will be found in vo!. i., p. 519 of the r»onii ed tinn (1S39) of the Chrono'^raphta. "Anno Mundi 6127; Anno Domini 627. In this year Omar undertook Iii^ expedition into Palestine, where, the Holy City having been continuously besieged for two years (by the Arab araiies)i he at length Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, "On the authority of Al Walid ibn Muslim, it is reported ns coming from a Shaikh of the sons of Shadad il)n Aiis, who had heard it from bis father, who held it of his grandfather, that 'Omar, as soon as he was at leisure from the writing of the Treaty of Capitulation made between him and the people of the Holy City, said to the Patriarch of Jerusalem: 'Conduct us to the Mosque of David.' And the Patriarch agreed thereto. Then 'Omar went forth girt with his sword, and with him four thousand of the Companions who had come to Jerusalem with him, all begirt likewise with their swords, and a crowd of us Arabs, who had come up to the Holy City, followed them, none of us bearing any weapons except our swords. And the Patriarch walked before *Omar among the Companions, and we all came behind the Khalif, Thus we entered the Holy City. And the Patriarch took us to the Church which goes by the name of the Kunianiah,* and said he : * This is David's Mosque.* And 'Omar looked around and pondered, then he answered the Patriarch: 'Thou liest, for the Apostle described to me the Mosque of David, and by his description this is not it.' Then the Pat'-i iTch went on with us to the Church of Sihyun (Sion), and again he said : ' This is the Mosf^ue of David.' But the Khalif replied to him : ' Thou liest.' So the Patriarch went on with him till he came to the noble Sanctuary of the Holy City, and reached the gate thereof, called (afterwards) the Gate Muhammad. Now the dung which was then all about the noble Sanctuary, had settled on the steps of this gate, so that it even came out into the street in which the gate opened, and it had accumulated so greatly on the steps as became possessefl of it l)y c.iinUilatiini. Sophroiiitis, the chief (or I'afnarch) of jcru^lcui, obtained from Omar a treaty in favour of all th« inhabitants of Palestine, after which Omar entered the Holy City clothed ia camel-hair gannentv all soiled and torn, and making show of piety as a cloak for his diabolical hypocrisy, demanded to 1c taken to what in former times bad been the Temple built by Solomon. 1 liis he straightway converted into an oratory for bl.Tif ihcniy ami imniety. When Sophronius saw this he exclaimed : * Verily, this is the abomination of desolation spolvcn of by Daniel the Prophet, and it now stands in the Holy Place and (the Patriarch) shed many tears." * Al Knroftmab — literally, the dunghill." This is a designed corruption on the part of the Muslims of " Al Kayamah," Anasfast's, the name given to th^ Church of the Resurrection (the Holy Sepulchre) by the Christian Arabs. Digitized by Google 143 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, almost to reach up to the ceih'ng of the gateway. The Patriarch said to 'Omnr : ' It is impossible to proceed and enter — except crawling on hands and knees.' Said 'Omar: * Even on hands and knees be it' So the Patriarch went down on hands and knees, preceding 'Omar, and we all crawled after him, until he had brought us out into the Court of the Noble Sanctuaiy of the Holy City* Then we arose off our knees, and stood upright. And 'Omar looked around, pondering for a long time. Then said he : * By Him in whose hands is my soul ! — ^this is the place described to us by the Apostle of Allah.*" (S., 276 ; M. a. D., 226.) ** And it is reported on other authority to the Inst, namely, from Hisham ibn 'Aiiiiiuu, who l.ad it from Al Haiiluiiu ibn 'Omar ibn al 'Abbasi, who related lliat he had heard his grandfather, 'Abd Allah ibn Abu 'Abd Allah, tell how, w lien 'Omar was Khalif, he went to \ i>it the people of Syria. 'Oinar halted first at the village of Al Jabiyah,* while he despntchcd a man of the Jadilah Tribe to liie Holy City, and, shortly after, Omar became possessed of Jerusalem by capitulation. Then the Khalif himself went thither, and Ka'ab t was with him. Said 'Omar to Ka'ab : * O, Abu Ishak, knowest thou the position of the Rock ?' and Ka'ab answered : ' Measure from the wall which is on the W&d! Jahan- num so and so many ells ; there dig, and ye shall discover it adding : ' At this present day it is a dungheap.' So they dug there, and the Rock was laid faaie. Then said 'Omar to Ka'ab : * Where sayest thou we should place the Mosque, or, rather, the Kibl/di?' Ka'ab replied: 'Lay out a place for it behind the Rock, whereby you will make one the twd Kibldhs, that, namely, of Moses, and that of Muhammad.' But 'Omar answered him : • In Jaulan. t The author of the Muthir wiitcs in another i»eclion : " Ka'ab al Abhar, or Al llibr, surnamed Aba Isbak ibn MAnt the Himywrite, was originally a Jewi ami became a Muslim during the Khalifiite of Abu B«kr — or, some my. during that of 'Omar. He is a celebrated authority for Traditions, and is rotod as having been n very learned man. He died at Hims in a.h. 32 (652)." In point of fact, Ka'ab, Ukc his co rcbgiiini>t, the eciiially celebrated Jew Wahb ibn Munabbih, who al^ embraced Islam (the two being the great authorities among the early Madims in all points of ancient history), was in time dtSGOveied to have been a gicM Uar, and to have couiderably gulled the simple-minded Aralis of the first eeatuiy of the FU^. Digitized by Googl JERUSALEM, 143 ' Thou hast leanings still towards the Jews, O Abu Ishak. The Mosque shall be in front of the Rock (not behind it).* Thus was . the Mosque erected in the fore-part of the Haram Area/' ** Al Walld further relates, as coming from Kulthum ibn Ziy&d, that 'Omar asked of Ka'ab : * Where thinkest thou that we should put the place of prayer for Muslims in this Holy Sanctuary?* Said Ka'ab in answer: *In the hinder (or northern) portion thereof, in the part adjoining the Gate of the Tribes.' But 'Omar said : ' Not so ; seeing that, on the contrary, to us belongs the fore-part of the Sanctuary.' And 'Omar then proceeded to the fore-part thcrcuf. Al VValid again relates — on the authority of Ibn bhadd.ui, who iiad it of his father — *'()mar proceeded to the fore- part of the Sanctuary Area, to the side adjoining the west (namely to the south-west part), and there began to throw the dung by handfuls into his cloak, and we all who were wiih him did like- wise. Then he went with it — and we following him to do the same — and threw the dung into the Wddi, which is called the W^t Jahannum. Then we returned to do the like over again, and yet again — he, 'Omar, and also we who were with him — ^until we had cleared, the whole of the place where the Mosque nd^ stands. And there we all made our prayers, 'Omar himself praying among us." ' Some other versions are also given of the same traditions, iden- tical in every point except for the pseudoauthority quoted, aad the wording of the narrative. (See S., 32 ; copied by M. a. D.» 225.) The following is given by SuyQti only (not by the author of the JlfutMr)^ and is curious for the mention of the St. Mary Church (Kamsah Maryam) possibly the Church of the Virgin described by Procopius. " Now, when 'Omar made the capitulation with the people of the Holy City, and entered among them, he was wearing at that time two long tunics of the kind called Sumhulanl Then he prayed in the Church of Mar}', and, when he had done so, he spat on one of his tunics. And it was said to him : * Dost thou spit liere because that this is a place in which the sin of polytheism has been committed ?' And 'Omar answered : ' Yea, verily the sin of polytheism hath been committed herein ; but now, in truth, Digitized by Google t44 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. the name of Allah hath been pronounced here.' It is further reported that 'Omar did carefully avoid praying near the W'adi Jahannum." (S., 34.) 'j4M al Malik and the Dome of the Rock. { Mn/hir, chapter vi.*) — '^Thc Khalif 'Abd al Malik it was who built tlic Dome of the Rock, and the (Aksa) Moscjuc of the Ifolv City; and, according to report, he devoted to the expenses of the same the revenues of £gypt for the space of seven years. The historian Sibt al Jauzi, in his work called the * Mirror of the Time ' {Mirat as Zamdn), states that 'Abd al Malik began the building here in the year 69 of the Hijrah, and completed the same in the year 72 (a.]x 6S7 — 690). But others say that he who first built the Dome (of the Rock) of the Holy City was Said, the son of the Khalif 'Abd al Malik, and that he afterwards, too, restored itf Now, on the authority of Riji ibn Hay&h, and of Yaztd ibn Sallim,! 'Abd al Malik's freedman, it is reported that, on the occasion of building the Dome of the Rock of the Holy City and the Aks& Mosque, the Khalif came himself from Damascus to Jerusalem, and thence despatched letters into all the provinces, and to all the governors of cities, to the following efi'ect : ' 'Abd al Malik doth wish to build a Dome over the Rock m the Holy City, whereby to shelter the Muslims from heat and cold ; as also a Mosque. But he wisheth not to do this thing without knowing the will of liis people, riierefore, let the Mushms write their desires, and what- soever may be their will.' And letters came back to him from the governors of the provinces which assured the Commander of the Faithful of the full approval of all men, and that they deemed his intention a fitting and pious one.. And said they : ' We ask of Allah to vouchsafe completion to what the Khalif doth undertake, in the matter of building in the Noble Sanctuary, and the Dome therein, and the Mosque ; and may it succeed under his hand, for * (hinted liy S., p. 2S0. t i his ashcriion is fuund in none of the early aulhoniicft. X Ahu'l Mikdam Hijft iVn II ayah ibn Jai^I, of the Kinclab tribe, was a man celebrated for his learning* and in later years a great friend of the second Khalif 'Omar (Ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz). Yaztd ibn Salt&m, his colleague, was a native of Jerusalem. The account following is transcribed by Mujir ad Din. — Cairo Text, pp. 241, 242. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. US it is a noblt^ deed, both for him and for those who follow after him.' " Then the Khaiif brought together craftsmen from all parts of his empire, and commnndcd iliat they sliould set forth the propor- tions and elevation of the building before they began to build the Dome itself. So they laid out the plan thereof in the Court of the Hamm Area. And he commanded them to build a Treasure House on the east side of the Rock, and the same is the building which now stands close beside the Rock.^ So they began to build. And the Khaiif set apart great sums of money, and instituted to be overseers thereof Rij& ibn Hay&h, and Yazid ibn Salldm, commanding them to spend the same, and gn ing them authority therein. So they made expenditure for digging the foundations, and building up the structure, until (all was finished and) the moneys were (in large part) expended. When the edifice was complete and solidly constructed, so that not a word could be said for improvement thereto, those men wrote to the Khaiif at Damascus, saying! * Allali hath vcjuchsafed comjjletion to what the Commander of the I'auhtul commandetl concernini^ the l)uild- ing of the Dome over the Rock of the Holy City, and the Aksa Mosque also. And no word can be said to suggest improvement thereto. And verily there remaineth over and above of what the Commander of the Faithful did set apart for the expense of the same — the building being now complete and solidly built — a sum. of 100,000 (gold) dinars. So now let the Commander of the Faithful expend the remnant in whatever matter seemeth good to him.' And the Khaiif wrote to them in reply : * Let this, then, be a gift unto you two for what ye have accomplished in the building of this noble and blessed house.' But to this Rij& and Yazld sent answer : * Nay, rather, first let us add to this the ornaments of our women and the superfluity of our wealth, and then do thou, O Khaiif, expend the whole in what seemeth best to thee.' Then the Khaiif wrote commanding them to melt down the gold, and applv u to tlie adornment of the Dome. So all this gold was uicltcd down and expended t > :: lorn the Dome of the Kock ; to an extent that it was imp )>MijIe, by reason of the _ ,*.lif}w called the Dome of the Chain. See p. 153. ; 10 Digitized by Google 146 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. gold thereon, for anyone to keep the eye fixed and look at it They prepared also two coverings, to go over the Dome, of felts and of skins of animals, and the same were put over it in the winter-time to preserve it from the rains, and the winds, and the snows. Riji ibn Hay&h and Yazld ibn Sall4m also surrounded the Rock with a lattice-screen of Sisim (or . ebony-wood), and out- side the screen they hung between the columns curtains of brocade. *• Each day fifty and two persons were employed to pound and grind down saffron, working by night also, and leavening it with nuisk and ambergris, and rose-water of the Jfiri rose. At early dawn the servants appointed entered the Bath of Sulaiinan* ibn *Abd al Malik, where they washed and purified themselves before proeeeding to the Treasure Chamber (al Khnzanah), in which was kept the (yellow perfume of saffron called) Khuldk. And, before leaving the Treasure Chamber, they changed all their clothes, putting on new garments, made of the stuffs of Marv and Herat, also shawls (of the striped cloths of Vaman), called 'Asb ; and, taking jewelled girdles, they girt these about their waists. Then, bearing the jars of the Khult^k in their hands, they went forth and anointed therewith the stone of the Kock, even as far as they could reach up to with their hands, spreading the perfume all over the same. And for the part beyond that which they could reach, having first washed their feet, they attained thereto by walking on the Rock itself, anointing all that remained thereof ; and by this the Jars of the Khuliik were completely emptied. Then they brought censers of gold and of silver, filled with aloes wood of Kimkr (in Java), and the incense called Nadd, compounded with musk and ambergris ; and, letting down the curtains between the columns, they swung to and fro the censers, until the incense did rise into all the space between the columns and the Dome above, by reason of the quantity thereof. Which done, and the * The ^TSS. of SiiyAti road TInmmnm Sulaiman," .is though it were the Bath of King Soloman. I have found no notice of this bath elsewhere ; and it is on the authority of the Muthfr that the Balh is named after the son of the Khalif 'Abd al Mattk. The JArl rose is nftnoed from ibe town of JOr or GAr, in I Pema, afterwards called FairikSbld, which was so celebrated for its roses as to be timiamed Salad al Ward^ " the Gty of Roses/' (YftkAt, ii. 147.) i I Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 147 curtains again drawn up, the censers were carried outside the building, whereby the sweet smell went abroad, even to the entrance of the market beyond (the Haram Area), so that all who passed therein could scent the perfume. After this the censers were extinguished Proclamation then was made by criers from before the screen: 'The Sakhrah, verily, is open for the jjeople, and he who would pray therein, let hiin rome,' And the people would hasten to come and make their prayer m the Sakhrah, the most of them performing two Rika'ahs (or prayer prostrations), while some few acquitted themselves of four. And he who had thus said his prayers, when he had gone forth agaiiii (friends) would perceive on him the perfume of the incense, and say: ' Such an one hath been in the Sakhrah.' (After the prayer-time was over, the servants) washed off with water the marks left by .the peoples' feet, cleaning everywhere with green myrtle (brooms), and diying with cloths* Then the gates were dosed, and for guarding each were appointed ten chamberlains, since none might enter the Sakhrah — eatcept the servants thereof— on other days than the Monday and the Friday. " On the authority of Abu Bakr ibn al HIiritb, it is reported that, during the Khalifate of *Abd al Malik, the Sakhrah was entirely lighted with (oil of) the Midian Ban (the Tamarisk, or Myrobalari) Ircc, and oil of Jasmin, of a lead colour. (And this, says Abu Bakr, was of so sweet a perfume, that) the chamberlains were wont to say to him : *0 Abu Bakr, j)ass us the lamps that we may put oil on ourselves theretrom, and perfume our clothes ' ; and so he used to do, to gratify iheni. Such are the matters relating to the days of the Khalifate of 'Abd al Malik. "Further, saith Al Walid, it hath been related to me by 'Abd ar Rahman ibn Mansiir ibn Th^bit — who said, I hold it of my father, who held it of his father, and he from his grandfather— that, in the days of ^Abd al Malik, there was suspended from the chain hanging down in the middle of the Dome of the Rock a single unique pearl, also the two boms of the Ram of Abraham, and the Crown of die Chosroes. But when the Khalifate passed to the Abbasides, they had all these relics transported to the Ka'abah — ^whtch may Allah preserve lo — 2 Digitized by Google 148 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, ' The followin:^, whirh 0( nirs in the seventh cliaptcr of the Aluilur, is quottcl botli Ijy Suyuli nnd by Mujir ad Din. (S., 285; M. a. I)., 2.}S.) A somewhat similar account will he found below (p. 161), on tlie nun li earlier authority of Ihn al Fakih. "On the authority of the Hafidh Ibn 'Asakir, the testimony going back to Abu-l-Maali al Mukaddasi, it is related how 'Abd al Malik built the Dome of the Rock and the Aksa Mosque. Further. 'Ukbah states that in those days there were six thousand beams of wood used for the ceilings, besides the beams for the wooden pillars ; and the doors were fifty in number. There 'were six hundred pillars of marble, and seven Mihr^, and of chains for suspending the candelabra four hundred, less fifteen (that is three hundred and eighty-five)» of which two hundred and thirty were in the Aksa Mosque, and the remainder (namely, one hundred and fifty-five) in the Dome of the Rock. The length of all these chains put together was 4,000 ells, and their weight 43,oco Syrian (pounds or) ratls.* There were five thousand lamps ; and, in addition to these, they were wont to light two thousand wax candles on the Friday nights, and on the middle nights of the nioiuhs of Rajab, Sha'aban, and Ramadhan, as also on tile nights of the Two ((Ireat) Festivals. (In the various iparts of the Haram Area) are tifieen (small) domes, besides the (Great) Dome of the Rock ; and on iln .Mu.sc^ue-roof there were seven thousand seven hundred sheets of lead, each sheet weighing 70 ratis, Syrian measure (420 lbs ). And this did not include what was on the roof which covered the Dome of the Rock. All this was of that which was done in the days of 'Abd al Malik. And this Khalif appointed for the perpetual service of the Noble Sanctuary three hundred servants, wlio were (slaves) purchased with moneys of the Royal Fifth from the Treasury ; and as these servants in time died off, each man*s son, or his son's son, or some member of his family, was appointed in his place. And so the service hath continued on for all time, generation af^er genera- tion ; and they receive their rations from the public treasury. " In the Haram Area there are twenty-four great water cisterns, and of minarets four — ^to wit, three in a line on the west side of • 258,000 lbs. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 149 the Noble Sanctuary, and one that rises above the Bab al Asbat (the ( iate of the Trilxs). And among the servants of the Haram there were Jews, from whom was exacted no poll-tax. OriLn'nally there were but ten men, but, their families increasing, the numticr rose to twenty ; and it was their business to sweep away the dust left by the people at the times of visitation, both in summer and in winter, and also to clean the pla<k:s of ablution that lay round the Aks4 Mosque. There were also ten Christian ser\-ants'of the Noble Sanctuary, whose office went by inheritance after the same fashion. These made^ and likewise swept, the mats of the Mosque. They also swept out the conduits which carried the water into the cisterns, and, further, attended to the keeping dean of the cisterns themselves, and other such service. And among the servants of the Sanctuary, too^ were another company of Jews, who made the glass plates for the lamps, and the glass lantern bowls, and glass vessels and rods. And it was appointed that from these men also no poll-tax was to be taken, nor from those who made the wicks for the lamps ; and tliis exemption continued in force for all time, both to iliem and their children who inherited the office after them, even from the days of 'Abd al Malik, and for ever. " Al VValid further writes — on the warranty of Abu 'Amir ibn Damrah, who reported it on the authority of 'Ata, who had it of his father that in early days it was the Jews who were appointed to light the lamps in the Noble Sanctuary, hut that when the Khalif 'Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz came to reign, he deprived, them of this office^ and set in their place servants who had been pur* chased with moneys of the Royal Fifth. And a certain man of these servants — a slave bought of the Royal Fifth-^<»me ohice to him, and said : ' Give me manumission, O Khalif !' But 'Omar answered : ' How then 1 verily I cannot emancipate thee I but shouldst thou depart (of thine own accord), behold I have no power over a hair even of the hairs of thy dog I' *** Such aie the traditional (or apocryphal) accounts, very probably, for the most part, an invention of the fourteenth century, which * Nlujir ad Din, who gives the anecdote, has "a hair of the hairs of tby body ' in place of " of tby dog." (M. a. D., 250.) Digitized by Google REFERENCES TO THE PLAN OF THE HA RAM AREA IN THE TiiME OF NASIR-I-KHUSRAU. A. Bib DftAd, Gate of David. B. Bab as Sakar, Gate of Hell. C. Gale leading to the Cloisters of the StlfU. D. B4b al Asbat, Gate of the Tribes. £. B&b al Abwftbt Gate of Gates. F. Bib al Taubah, Gate of Repentance. G. Bab ar Kahmah, Gate of Mercy. H. The ancient Bab al Burak, or Bib al Janiiz, Gate of the Funerals. I. Ancient '* Single Gatc "\ rOnc of these is the B&b al 'Ain, Gate J. Ancient " Triple Gale " j I of the Spring. K. Bab an Nabl, Gate of the Prophet, the ancient " Double Gate." L. Steps leading down to the subtenmnean Pkssage-way of thk G«te^ M. Bftb Hittah, Gate of Remtsskm. N. Dome of the Chain. O. Kubbat ar RasCsl, Dome of the PropbeL P. Kubbat Jibrall, Dome of Gabriel. Q. Stairway, called Makftm an NaW, Station of the Prophet R. Stairway, eaUed Makim GbM. Western Stairwrays, U. Northern Stairway, called Makam Shami. Y. Eastern Stairway, calleii MaUam Sharki, W. Oratoiy of Zachariah. X. Done of Jacob. Y. Small Mosque, of old a Hall. Z. Steps lca<I!ng dow n to the Mosque of the Cradle of Jems. a. Colonnade of Arches i i» >» ft i> It >* Along the West WalL '^1 e. yColoBiUMlcs along the North Wall. /J g. Colonnade of forty-two archci, along .South Wail, joining the Western Colonnade. Digitized by Google Digitized by Google Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 151 purport to relate the events of 'Omar's conquest, and 'Abd al Malik's buildings, in the seventh century of our era. How much credence should be placed in them it is difficult to say. They rest, doubtless, on some foundation of fact ; but the form of the greater part of the narratives is very evidently apocryphal. Wc may now return to the older Chronicles and Geographers, whose accounts are more worthy of credence, and 'hcii authorities more easily controlled, and we shall resume ihe subject of the descripiiun of the Haram Area, i>ioceeding to quote the earlier accounts concerning the various buildings, other than the Aksd Mos(}ue and the Dome of the Rock, which occupy the area of the Noble Sanctuary. THE VOMB OF THE CHAIN. A few paces east of the Dome of the Rock stands a small cupola, supported on pillars, but without any enclosing wall, except at the Kiblah point, south, where two of the pillars have a piece of wall, forming the Mihnlb, built up in between them. This is called Kubbat as Silsilah — " the Dome of the Chain." As early as 913 it is mentioned by Ibn 'Abd Rabbih as ''the Dome where^ during the times of the children of Israel, there hung down the chain that gave judgment (of truth and lying) between them." (I. R., iii. 368.) According to the most generally accepted tradition, King David received Irum the angel Gabriel, not a chain, but an iron rod, with the command to span it across his judgment-hall, and on it to hang a bell. When the rod was touched in turn by plaintiff and defendant, the bell sounded for the one with whom the right lay.* The Arab Geographers, however, all speak of a chain ; and YAkfit, describing this Dome, particularly mentions that it was here that was **hung the chain which allowed itself to be grasped by him who spoke the truth, but could not be touched by him who gave false witness, until he had renounced his craft, and repented him of his sin." (Yik., iv. 593.) The Dome of the Chain is also mentioned by Ibn 'Abd Rabbih's contemporary, Ibn al Fakth, who describes it as, in his * See Weil, BiMiscke Legenden dtr MmtlmSmur, p. 315. Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, day, " supported on twenty marljle columns, and its roof is covered with sheets of lead." (I. K, loi.) In Mukaddasi's days the Dome of the Chain is also described as merely a cupola, "supported on marble pillars, being without walls/' (Muk., 169.) So frail a structure would, doubtless, have frequently suffered damage by the earthquakes, which, as is recorded, threw down many of the buildings in the Haram Area. And this circum> stance will explain the varying accounts given at different times of the number of the pillars. At the present day there are six in an irmer circle, supporting the cupola, and eleven in the outer, two of these being built into the Mihiib. This gives a total of seventeen pillars (see plan facing p. 1 14). The Persian traveller Nasir, writing in 1047, gives the following description ut ihc buildiiiL^ he visited (see plan, p. 126) : " Besides the 1 )omc ul the Rock there is (on the platform) the dome called Ruljhat as Silsihih (or the l)t)ine of the Chain). The •Chain' is that which David — peace l)e upon him 1 hung up, and it was so that none who spoke not the truth could grasp it; the unjust and the wicked man could not lay hand on it, which same is a certified fact, and well known to the learned. This Dome is supported on eight marble columns, and six stone piers ; and on all sides it is open, except on the side towards the Kiblah point, which is built up, and forms a beautiful Mihr&b." (N. Kh., 48.) IdrisS, in 1154, writing probably from Christian accounts, and at a time when the Holy City was in the occupation of the Crusaders, speaks of the Dome of the Chain as "the Church which is called the Holy of Holies/' (See above, p. 131.) Ac- cording to the author of the diet de Jkermokm^ a work of about the year 1325, the building was in his day known to the Christians as the Chapel of St. James the Less, because it was here he was martyred, when the Jews threw him down from the Temple.'** Saladin, after reconquering the Holy City (1 187), must have put back the Dome of the Chain to its original use as a Muslim oratory. According to Miijir ad Din, the Dome of the Chain was * falestitu PUgnwis Text, ^ 13. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, I5J rebuilt by ihc Egyptian Sultan Baibars, who reigned from 1260 — 1277. (M. a. 1)., 434.) It is often stated thai tlic Dome of the Chain was first built to serve as the model, from which the nrchitct ts of 'Abd al Malik subse<|uently erected the Circat Dome of the Rock. This idea is. I believe, found in no Arab writer previous to Mujir ad Din (1496). Suyuti (see above, p. 145), from whom he copies most of his descriptions, has not a word of this; and Mujir ad Din apparently either him>elf invented the idea of the Dome of the Chain having been built as a modeK or else inserted it as the account current among the learned of his own day. Mujir ad Dtn's statement is as follows : " It is said that (the Khalif) 'Abd al Malik described what he desired in the matter and manner of the building of the Dome (of the Rock) to his architects, and they, while he sojourned in the Holy City, built the small dome which stands to the east of the Dome of the Rock, and is called the Dome of the Chain." A few lines before, Mujir ad Din further states that tiie Khalif laid up the seven \ ears' tril)me of Egypt, which had been amassed for the building e\[)cnscs of ihc Dome of the Rock — *' in the Dome which stood over against the Rock on the eastern side, and which he had caused to be built here near tiie olive-lrce. This he made his store chaml)er, filling it with the moneys." (M. a. D., 241.) Mujir ad Din further describes the Dome of the Chain as in his day ** supported by seventeen columns, not counting the two (on either side) of the Mihrab." (M. a. D., 372.) At the present day, as has been noted above, there are seventeen columns in all, including those in the Mihrilb^ so that apparently since 1496 some alterations have been effected in this building. Minor Domes. — Besides the Great Dome of the Rock, and the smaller Dome of the Chain to the east of it, there have at all times stood on the Platform at least two other smaller Domes, built to commemorate the incidents of the Prophet's Night Journey. These edifices were of so frail a structure as constantly to have suffered by the shocks of earthquake, and it is not surprising to find some confusion in the names under which they are described at various dates. Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. In 903, according to Ibn al Fakih, "in the northern part (of the platform) arc (i) the Dome of the Prophet. (2) and ihc Station of Gabriel ; (3) while near the Sakhrah (the Dome of the Ro<:k) is the Dome of the Ascension." His contcm{)orar}', Ibn *Abd Rabbih, on the other hand, mentions ''(i) the Dome whence the Prophet made his ascent into Heaven; (2) the Dome over the spot where the Prophet i^rayed (in communion) with the (former) Prophets ; . . . (3) further the Praying-place of Jibrail." Mukad- dasi (who wrote in 985) states that the two Minor Domes were called "the Dome of the Ascension, and the Dome of the Prophet." According to NSsir's account in 1047, in his day the two were known as the Dome of the Prophet, and the Dome of Gabriel. From these wious statements the conclusion presumably to be drawn is^ that of the two domes lying north-west of the Sakhrah ; that standing furthest to the west was in Ibn al Faklh's time called **(i) the Dome of the Prophet^' end this is identical with that mentioned by Ibn *Abd Rabbih as " (2) the Dome where the Prophet prayed," with Mukaddasi's ** Dome of the Prophet," also described a little later under the same name by Nasir-i-Khtisrau. The Dome, occupying the position of the one here spoken of. goes at the present day by the name of the Kubbat al Mi raj^ the Dome of the Ascension. (Plan at the end of the present ( liapter, R.) Between the piL^ctit Dome of the Ascension and the (ircat Dome of the Rock, there would seem to have stood in old days a second Minor Dome, occupying the position of the present Dome or Praver- Station of the Angel dabriel. (Plan at the end of the chapter, at S.) From very early times, however, the names of these Minor Domes would appear to have been constantly interchanged or altered. Thus this second Dome is called by Ibn al Fakih "(3) the Dome of the Ascension;" by Ibn 'Abd Rabbih "(i) the Dome whence the Prophet ascended;" by Mukaddasi **the Dome of the Ascension;" and by N&sir "the Dome of Gabriel" Further, besides these two Domes, Ibn al Kaklh, and Ibn 'Abd Rabbih, both mention *'the Praying-Station of Gabriel," which is not spoken of by either Mukaddasi or NSsir. The only actual description of the two Minor Domes, stand- Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 155 ing to the north-west of the Sakhrah, previous to the Crusades is that left us hv Nasir-i-Khiisrau in 1047. After describing the Dome of the Rix k and the Dome of the Chain, he continues: " And again, on the ))latform, is ;inother Dome, that surmounts four marble columns. This, too, on the Kiblah side, is walled in, formmg a fine Mihrib. It is called Kubbat ji brail (the Dome of Gabriel) ; and there are no carpets spread here, for its floor is formed by the live-rock, that has been here made smooth. They say that on the night of the Mi'rilj (the Ascent into Heaven) the steed Burik was tied up at this spot, until the Prophet — peace and benediction be upon himl^was ready to mount Lastly, there is yet another Dome, lying 20 cubits distant from the Dome of Gabriel, and it i& called Kubbat ar RasCU (or the Dome of the Prophet)— peace and benediction be upon himl This Dome, likewise, is set upon four marble piers." (N. Kh., 49.) To what purpose these Minor Domes were put during the occupation of Ae Holy City by the Crusaders is unknown. Shortly after Saladin had reconquered Jerusalem in 1187, what is now known of the Dome of the Ascension was rebuilt, having fallen to ruin. Mujir ad Din, writing in 1496, states: "The present Dome of the Ascension was rebuilt in 597 (1200) by the governor of Jerusalem, 'Izz ad Din 'Othman ibn *Ali Az Zanjili, the more ancient Dome having fallen to ruin." ( M. a. D., 373.) An inscription giving this date may still be read on the present Kubbat al MVrAj. The position of the minor Dome, known of old as the Dome of the Prophet, appears to have been a matter of controversy among the learned in the days that followed the Muslim re-occupation of Jerusalem. YakCit (1225) refers to it as the Dome of An Nabi D&Ad-^^ Prophet David. (Ydk., iv. 594 ) This change of name from Muhammad to David is proluibly what led SuyAtI, writing in 1470^ to put forward the following theory for the fdenttficalion of the older Dome of the Pirophet, as described by Muslim writers previous to the time of the Crusaders. Suydtt's tndentification of this Dome of the Ftophet with the Dome of the Chain has not, it will be noted, been adopted by subsequent authorities. SuyAti writes : Digitized by Google IS6 PALESTINE UNDER HIE MOSLEMS. "The Dome naiiKJ tlic Dome of" the l'roi)het is, as I under- stand it, the one whieli lies lo the east of the Sakhrah, being also called the Dome of the Chain. It was huilt by the Khalif 'Al^d al Malik. For I would point out that in the Harani Area, l)eside the Dome of the Ascension, there are but two oilier 1 )omes. One, a small 1 )ome, stands at the edge of the Sakhrali Platform, on the right hand side of the northernmost of the steps leading up to the Platform from the west.* I believe at the present day this is in the hands of certain of the servants of the Noble Sanctuary, and is put to some use on their part ; certainly no one in the Holy City con- siders this to be the Dome of the Prophet The only other Dome (in the Haram Area) stands back near the Gate of the Noble Sanctuary, on the northern side, called the Gate of the Glory of the Prophets, known also as the BUb ad Daw&dariyyah. This is called the Dome of Sulaim&n — not after the Prophet Solomon,, but perhaps after Sulaim&n, the son of the Khalif 'Abd al Malik. As to the Dome of the Ascension, it is, as everybody knows, on the Platform of the Sakhrah, and is much visited by the pilgrims. Hence, -therefore, it is likely that what Al Musharraf, and the author of the Mustaksd and of the Bffiih an Nufus^ referred to under the name of the Dome of the Prophet, is that now known as the Dome of the Cham, which was built by the Khalif 'Abd al Malik." Now, as to the i)lace where the Prophet })rayed, in the com-, pany of the former Prophets and the Angels, it is said that this spot is beside the Dome of the .Xseension, where, on the Platform of the Sakhrah, there used to stand a beautiful Dome. W hen, how- ever, they flaggt-d the Platform oi Sakhrah, they did away with this Dome, and set in its place a handsome Mihrab, the floor of which is laid in a circle with red marble slabs, after the manner of other parts of the Sakhrah Court. This, then, as it is said, in the place occupied by this Mihrab, is where the Prophet made his prayer with the Angels and Prophets. He then advanced a step forward from that place, and there rose up before htm a ladder of gold and a ladder of silver, and thereby he ascended into Heaven." (S., 260, 261 ; the last paragraph is copied by M. a. D., 374.) ^ At present known m Knbbat al Khidr, the Dome of St. George. . Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 157 The Platform and Stair u<ays. — ^'hc Platform (xcupyinL: the centre of the liarani Area, on which sLaml the Dome of the Kcm k and the other minor nonies, according to Ibn al Fakih, nieasurrd in his days (903) ** 300 cUs in Icngih, by 140 cIls across, and its height is 9 ells. ' (1. F., 100. ) Taking the l11 to Ix- the royal ell, measuring i \ feet (the evaluation derived from the dimensions recorded of the Dome of the Rock), this gives 450 feet, by 210, and is considerably less than the measurement of the present Plat- form, which is, taking the mean of length and breadth, 540 feet by ,465 feet. In 1047 we have Nilsir-i-Khusrau's measurements recorded, namely* 330 cubits by 300 but the cubit (in the Persian Arsh\ here used is the long ' cubit of nearly 2 feet. This, if the figures be correct, gives rather under 660 feet, by 600 feet,a nd would go to prove that at Nllsir's date, just pre- vious to the Crusades, the Platform was somewhat larger thaii it is at present. Further, it had apparently been raised in the height since Ibn al Faklh's days. Then it was 9 (shorter) ells, or T3I feet, above the level of the Court; in Nasii's time it was 12 (longer) ells, somewhat under 24 feet high. At the present day the ufiper level is only some 10 feet above tiial of the rest of the Haraiii Area. Mujir ad Din, writing at the close of the fifleenlh centur>', gives the measures he him.sclf had made, whieh jirove that in his day the Platform must have oerupied exactly the same lines it does at the jiresent time. The measurement he uses is the Worknian^seil^ whii h was aj)proximately 2\ English feet. The following is a translation from his text : " The dimensions of the I^latform (Sahf:) of the Sakhrah are these: From the South Wall, betwem the two stairways the line passing between the East Gate of the Dome of the Rock and the Dome of the Chain, up to the North Wall, opposite the Bab Hittah, measures 235 ells. From the East Wall, over against the Olive-trees that are near the Kubbat at TQm4r (the Dome of the KoU), to the West Wall opposite the Sultan's Madrasah, measures 189 ells of the Workman's etl." (M. a. D., 377.) . Ibn al F4kih states that the platform was (in 903) ascended by six flights of steps. Mukaddasi, about eighty years later, says there Digitized by Google 158 PALESTINE UNDER 2HE MOSLEMS, were four stairways leadii^ up from the four sides; 1^4sir-i- Khusrau, in 1053, however, gives six again as the number of the stairways, and he adds the following description of the Platform and its itairways : In the middle of the Court of the Haram Area is the Plat- form, and set in the midst thereof is the Sakhrah (Rock) which, before the revelalion of Islam, was the Kiblah (or point turned to in prayer). The Platform was constructed l)y reason that the Rock, being high, could not be brought witliin the comi^ass of the Main-building (of the Aksa Mosque). Wherefore the foundations of this Platform were laid, measuring 330 cubits by 300, and the height thereof 12 ells. I he surface of the same is level, and beautifully })aved with slabs of marble, with walls the like, all the joints being riveted with lead. Along the edge of its four sides are parapets of marble blocks that fence it round, so that, except by the openings left especially therefor, you cannot enter. From the Platform you command a view over the roofs of tlie (Aksi) Mosque. There is an underground tank in the midst of the Plat- form, whereto is collected, by means of conduits, all the rain-water that falls on the Platform itself ; and the water of this tank is sweeter and purer than is the water of any other of the tanks in the Hatam Area.*' " Now, regarding the stairways that lead up on to the platform from the court of the Noble Sanctuary, these are six in number, each with its own name. On the side (south) towards the Kiblah, XhcK are two flights of steps that go up on to the platform. As you stand by the middle of the retaining wall of the })lalform (facing south), there is one tliglit to the right haiiU anil another to the left. That lying on the right is called Makam an Nabi (the Prophet's Station)— i)eace be upon him ! — and that lying on the left is called Makam OhAri (or the Station of Ghuri). The stairway of the Prophet's Station is so called because that on the night of his ascent, the Prophet —upon him be peace and blessing! — went up to the platform thereby, going thence to the Dome of the Rock. And the road hither from the Hijjaz comes by this stair. At the present day this stairway is 20 cubits broad, and each step is a rectangular block of care- Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, i59 fully chiselled stone in one piece, or sometimes in two. 1 he steps are laid in such fashion iluL ii would he possii)lc to ride on horseback up the stairway to the platform. At the top of this stairway are four piers of marble, green, like the emerald, only that the marble is variegated with numberless coloured spots ; and these pillars are to cubits in height, and so thick that it Nvmld take two men to encompass them. Aho\e the capitals of these four pillars rise three arches — one opposite the gate, and one on either side ; and (the masonry) crowning the arches is flat-topped and rectangular, with battlements and a cornice set on it. These pillars and the arches are ornamented in gold and enamel-work, than which none can be finer. The balustrade round the (edge of the) platform is of green marble, variegated with spots, so that one would say it was a meadow covered with flowers in bloom. The stairway of Maldhn GhArt consists of a triple flight, and the three lead up together on to the platform— one in the middle, and two on either side — so that by three ways can people go up. At the summit of each of the three flights are columns supporting arches with a cornice. Each step is skilfully cut of squared stone, as before described, and each may consist of two or three blocks in the length. Over the arcade above is set a beautiful insinption in gold, stating that the same was constructed by command of the Amir Kaith ad Daulah Nfishtakin GhClri ; and they told nie that this Laith ad Daulah had Ixen a servant of the Sultan of Egypt, and had caused these steps and gnngNvays to be built. On the western side of the platform there are, likewise, two flights of steps leading up thereon, and constructed with the same skill as those I have just described. On the east side there is but one flight. It is built after a like fashion to the foregoing, with columns and an arch with battlements above, and it is named Maksim Shark! (or the Eastern Station). On the northern side (of the platform) there is also a single stairway, but it is higher and broader than are any of the others. As with those, there are here columns and arches built (at the top of the flight), and it goes by the name of Makiim Sh&mi (that is, the Syrian or Northern Station). According to the estimate I madCi these six Digitized by Google I60 PALESilNE, UNDER THE MOSLEMS. flights of steps must have had expended upon them 100,000 dinte 01^ {;£so,ooo).*' (N. Kh., 43-45-) NAshtaktn Ghfirt, here spoken of, was a Turk who commanded the armies of the .Fatimite Khalif Adh Dh^hir. From having originally been a slave in Khoten, he rose to become Governor of Syria, where he ruled between the years 1028 — 104 1, shortly before N5sir*s visit. jI'/ic Court of the Haram Afta. The earl) acrounts which describe the various buildings— Dunies, Mihrabs, and Oratories — found scattered over the great court of the Haram Area innke mention of edifices, some of whicli, with the la])se of time, have now completely disap{)earecl, while other--, havini; changed their names, can only doubtluliy be idcnlilied with the existmg structures. During the eighty-eight yeais th:it Jerusalem remained in the hands of the Crusaders, the buildings of the Haram Area were turned to various purposes — religious or domestic — by the Templars, to whom the Noble Sanctuary had been granted When Saladin retook the Holy City, it was in the third generation, counting from those who had been dispossessed by Godfrey de Bouillon, and many of the Muslim traditions attached to the then extant buildings of the Haram Area had doubtless been forgotten or become falsified. Of the Haram Area in general, in the beginning of the tenth century we have two accounts (dating from 903 and 913), which, judging from their points of coincidence, may possibly have been derived from the same source. It is not certain whether either of the respective authors of these accounts (Ibn al Fakih and Ibn 'Abel Rahbili) ever persunall}' \ isilccl the places they purpose to describe. I'oriions of these aceuunl:> have been frequently coijied i)y subse<iuent writers, and notably by SuyOti, from whuui Mujir ad Din has so freely j)lai:innzed. (See above, j). 148.) Some of the details mentioned \\\ tliese two accounts have already been commented upon in the foregoing i>ages ; the description of the other small buildings described as on upying the Haram Area in the tenth century will now be noted and compared with the accounts that have come down to us from other sources. First, Digitized by JERUSALEM, however, it >Yill be well to give complete translations of the two .4esc:riptions of the Haram Area. I bn al Fakih's debcription, written in 903, is as follows : " It is said that the length of the Noble -Sanctuary at Jerusalem is x,ooo ells, and its width 700 ells. There are (in its buildings) four tlu)usand beams of wood» seven hundred pillars (of stone), and five hundred brass chains. It is jighted every night by one thousand six hundred lamps, and it is served by one hundred and forty slaves. The monthly allowance of olive-oil is 100 kists,* and yearly they provide 800,000 ells of matting, also twenty-five thousand water-jars. Within the Noble Sanctuary are sixteen chests for the volumes of the Kuiin set apart for public service, and these manuscripts are the admiration of all men. There are four pulpits for voluntary preachers, and one set apart for the salaried preacher ; and there are also four tanks for the ablutions. On the various roofs (of the Mosque and domes), in place of clay, arc used forty-five thousand sheets of lead. To the right hand of the Miluatj (in the Aksa, Moscjue) is a slab on which, in a circle, is written the name of Mohammed — the blessing of Allah be upon him ! — and on a white stone behind the Kiblah (wall, to the south) is the inscription : In the name of Allah the Merciful^ the Comf>assii)nufe^ Mohammed is Allah's Apostle, //amzah was his he-per.\ Within the Mosque are three Maksurahs (or railed spaces) for the women, each MaksQrah being 70 ells in length. There are within and without (the Noble Sanctuary) in all fifty ^tes (and doors)." Next follows the descrtptioo of the Dome of the Rock and the minor domes already translated (p^ iso). Ibn al fakih .then .continues : "Among the gates (of the Haram Area) are B4b D&Od, Bflb Hittah, BAb an Nabi (Gate of the Prophet), Bib at Taubah (Gate of Repentance), and there is here the Mihrlb Maryam (Fiayer- niche of Mary), Bib al WAdt, Bib ar Rahmah (Gate of Mercy), with the Mihr&b Zakariyyd, AbwAb .al Asb4t (the Gates of the * The Kist (froin the C.rcek S^Trtyr, and the Komui .SertMittf) «waB equivalent to about a (luart ariii a lialf of our measure, t The Pruphct's uncle, whu fell at the BatUe of OhoU. II Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Tribes), with the Cave of Abraham, the Mihr^b of Jacob, and Bdb Dar Umm KhaUd (the Gate of the House of Khalid's Mother). Outside the Haram Area at the City Gate to the west is the Mihrib DiCid (David's Prayer niche). The place of the tying-up of (the steed) Al Buidk is in the angle of the southern minaret The Spring of Siloam ('Ain Sulw&n) lies to the south of the Haram Area. The Mount of Olives overlooks the Haram Aiea, being separated therefrom by the Widt Jahannum. From (the Mount of Olives) Jesus was taken up ; across (the Wddt) will extend the bridge As Sir&t ; and there, too, is the Place of Prayer of the Khalif 'Omar, also many of the tombs of the prophets" (I. F., loo, loi.) Ihn ^\bd Rabbih's notice, written some ten years later than the above, differs in some of the details. It is as follows : Description of the Mos(fue of the Holy City, and what therein is of Holy Places of the Prophets ~'X\\c length of the Haram Area is 784 ells, and its breadth 455 ells, of the ells of the Imam.* They light the Noble Sanctuary with 1,500 lamps, and in its structures have been employed 6,900 lieams of wood. Its gates are 50 in num!)er, and there are 684 columns. Within the Sakhrah (the Dome of the Rock) are 30 columns, and the columns which are outside the Sakhrah are 18 in number, t The Dome is covered by means of 3,392 sheets of lead, over which are placed plates of brass, gilded, which number ic.2ia The total number of the lamps that light the Sakhrah is 464, which hang by books and chains of copper. The height of the Sakhrah of the Holy City (in ancient days), when it reached heavenward, was ta miles, and the people of Jericho (to the east) profited by Its shadow, as did also those of 'Amwds (Emmaus^ to the west) ; and there was set over it (in the early times) a red ruby, which shone, giving light even to the people of the BalkA, so that those who lived there were able to spin by the light thereof. In the Masjtd • If the readini^ hnam lie correcl, the Imam in (|UL>tion is (loubtle>«s the Khalif Ali, who inaugurated mony novelties besides the atamlard of tlie ell. t See p. 12a. It will be observed that As Sakhrak (the Rock) it Qsed to denote both the Dome and (he Rock ilsclf ; just as Al Masjidm^xa (he whole Haram Area, and more particalarly the Mosque (or Masjid) Al Akai in itft southern part. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 163 (al Aksa ?) are three MaksOrahs (enclosed spaces) for the women, the length of each Maksurah being 80 ells, and its brcadih 50 elK* In the Moscjue are 600 chains for the suspending of the lamps, each chain being 18 ells in length ; also seventy copper sievesf (GAfrM/), nnd seven cone-shaped stands (called SnnauOiirat) tor the lamps. Further, seventy complete copies of the Kiirdn, and six copies of greater size, each page of which is made of a single skin of parchment ; these last are placed on desks. The Noble Sanctoaiy contains ten Mihr&bs, fifteen Domes, twenty-four cisterns for water, and four minarets, from whence they make the call to prayer. All the roofs, that is, of the Mosque, the Domes, and the minarets, are covered with gilded plates. Of servants appointed to its service^ there are^ together with their families, in all 230 persons, called MamlAks (slaves), all of whom receive theit rations from the Public Tkeasury. Monthly there is allowed (for the Noble Sanctuary) 700 Kists Ibrahtmt of olive-oil, the weight of the Ktst being a Rati and a half of the kurger weight % The allowance yearly of mats is 8,000 of the same. For the hanks of cotton for the wicks of the lamps, they allow yearly 12 Dinars {£(>) ; for lamp-glasses, 33 Dindrs : and for the payment of the workmen, who rr p.ur the various roots in tiic Noble Sanctuary, there is 15 Dinars yearly. "Of Holy Places of the Prophets in Jerusalem are the following : Under the corner of the (Aksa) Moscjue is the spot where the * Tropliet tied up his steed, Al Burak. Of gate leadinp; into the Noble Sanctiiar)* are tlie Bab Daud, the Bab Sulaiman, and the Bal) ilittah, which last is intended by Allah when he saith 'Say ye, Hittah (forgiveness), and there is no God but Allah but some men say Hintah (wheat)^ making a jest thereof, for which may Allah curse them in their impiety ! Also there are the Bib Muhammad, and the Bab at Taubah (the Gate of Repentance), where Allah vouchsafed repentance to David. And the Bib ar Rahmah (the Gate of Mercy), of which Allah has made mention in His Book, saying :;; * A gate, within which is Mercy; while without • See p. TOO. f What purpose these served is unknown. X Thai »s, aU>ut nine pounds to the Kisit. g Kuran, ii 55. II Kurln, IvU. 13. II — a Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, the same is the Torment,' alluding to ilie Wadi Jahannum, which lies on the cast of the Holy City. And the Abwab al Asbdt (the . Gates of the Tribes), the tribes being the Tribes of the Children of Israel ; and the Gates here are six in number. Also the Bab al Walid, the al H^himi, the Bdb al Khidr (the Gate of Elias or St George), and the B&b as Saktnah (the Gate of the Shechina, or Divine Ptesence). "In the Noble Sanctuary further are the Mihr&b of Mary (Mother of Jesus), the daughter of 'Amrin, whither the Angels were wont to bring her fruits of winter during the summer-time, and summer-fniits in the winter •time. Also the Mihrftb of Zakariyya (father of John the Baptist), where the Angels gave him the good news (of the birth) of John, at a time when he was staiuiiMg I ra}ing therein. Also the Mihrab Ya'kui) (Jacob), and the Kursi Sulaiman (the Throne of Solomon ), where he used to pray to Allah ; and the Minaret of Abraham, the Friend of the Merciful, wliither he was wont to retire for worship. There are likewise here the Dome whence the Prophet (Muhammad) made his ascent into Heaven ; the Dome over the spot where the Prophet prayed with tlie Projihets (of old) ; also the Dome where, during the times of the Children of Israel, there did hang down the Chain that gave judgment (of truth or lying) between them. Further, the Praying place of Gabriel (Musalli Jibritl), and the Praying-place of Al Khidr (Elias). " Now when thou enterest the Sakhrah (or Dome of the Kock), make thy prayer in the three comers thereof; and also 'pray on the slab which rivals the Rock itself in glory, for it lies over a gate of the Gates of Paradise. The birthplace of Jesus, the son -of Maiy, is (at Bethlehem) about 3 miles distant from the Noble Sanctuary; Abraham's Mosque (which is Hebron), wherein is 'his tomb, is 18 miles from the Holy City. The (Maltkite) Mlhiftb of this Mosque lies on the western side. And among the excellent sights of the Holy City are these. The place of the Bridge As Sirdt is in the. Holy City, and from Jahannum (Hell) — may Allah keep us therefrom ! — it will reach even unto the Holy City. On the Day of Resurrec tion Paradise will be l)rought as a bride to the Holy City, and the Ka'ahah also shall come thither with her, so Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, that men will exclaim, * All hail to those who come as pilgrims ! and all hail to her to whom pilgrimage is made I' And the Black Stone shall be brought, in bridal procession, to the Holy City ; and the Black Stone on that day ^all be greater in size than the Hill of Abu Kubais.* Among the Excellencies of the Holy City are these, namely: that Allah did take up His Prophet into Heaven from the Hoi) Cuy, as likewise Jesus^ the son of Mary. And verily in the last days the Antichrist shall conquer Christ in all and ever) part of the earth, excepting ox\\y in the Holy City. And Allah hath forbidden Gog and Mai;ug to set foot in the Holy City. Lastly, all the Saints and Holy Men of Ciod are from the Holy C ity, antl Adam and Moses and Joseph, and the great company of the Prophets of the Children of Israel all left by testa- ment the command that they should be buried in the Holy City." (I. R., iii. 366-368.) Mukaddasi, writing in 985. corr()i)orales some of the details mentioned by the two foregoing authorities. He notes : " Of the holy places within (the Haram Area) are the Mihrab Maryam (the Oratory of Mary), Zakariyyah (of Zachariah). Ya'kdb (of Jacob), and Al Khidr (of Elias, or St. George), the Station of the Prophet {Afakam an Nabi)^ and of Jibrail (Gabriel), the Place of the Ant, and of the Fire^ and of the Ka'abah, and also of the Bridge As Sirfit, which shall divide Heaven and Hell. Now, the dimensions of the Haram Area are : length, 1,000 ells— of the royal Hashimtte ell — and width, 700. In the ceiling of its various edifices there are four thousand wooden beams, supported on seven hundred marble columns, and the roofs are overlaid with forty- five thousand sheets of lead. The measurement of the Rock itself is 33 ells by 27, and the cavern which lies beneath will hold sixty-nine persons. The endowment provides monthly for 100 Kists of olive-oil, and in each year they use 800,000 ells of matting. The Mosque is served by special attendants ; their service was instituted by the Khalif 'Abd al Malik, the men being chosen from among the Royal l ifth of the captives taken in war, aiul hence they are called Al Akhmas (the Qumuns;. None l)esides these are employed in the service, * The hill overhanging the city of Makkah on the west. ' Digitized by Gopgle PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, and they take their watch in turn beside the Rock." (Muk., 170, 171.) The various jwints of interest in the pt«ceding descriptions must now be noticed in detail, and compared with the descriptions derived from other authorities. TAe Cradh ///irm.— The small Mosque in the substructures of the ancient tower at the south-eastern angle of the Haram Area, known at the present day as the Cradle of Jesus, is spoken of by Ibn 'Abd Rabbih (see above, p, 164) under the name of "The Mihr&b of Mary, the daughter of 'Amr&n (and Mother of Jesus). ' Mukaddasi, too, mentions among the Holy places in the Haram Area "The Mihrab Maryam and Zakariyyah. ' The earliest detailed description of this spot is to be found in Nlsir's diary. He writes : " Adjacent to the East Wall, and when you have rca* hcd the south (eastern) angle (of the Haram Area) the Kiblah-puint lying before you, south, but somewhat aside there is an underground Mos(iiie, to whieh you descend by many steps. It is situated immediately to the north of the (South) Wall of the Haram Area, covering a space measuring 20 ells by 15, and the chamber has a roof of stone, supported on marble columns. Here was of old the Cradle of Jesus. The Cradle is of stone, and large enouj^h for a man to make therein his prayer prostrations, and I myself said my prayers there. The Cradle is fixed into the ground, so that it cannot be moved. This Cradle is where Jesus was laid during His childhood, and where He held converse with the people, llie Cradle itself, in this Mosque, has been made the Mihrftb (or oratory) ; and there is, likewise, on the east side of this Mosque the Mihrib Mar}'am (or Oratoiy of Mary), and another Mihrib, which is that of Zakariyya (Zachariah)— peace be upon him ! Above these Mihrlbs are written the verses revealed in the Kuran iluu relate respectively to Zachariah and 10 Mary. They say that Jesus — peace be upon Him ! — was born in the place where this Mosque now stands. On the shaft of one of the Columns there is impressed a mark as though a person had gripped the stone with two fingers ; and they say that Mary, when taken in the pangs of lalK)ur, did thus with one hand seize upon stone, leaving this mark thereon. This Mosque is known by Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 167 the title of Mahd 'ls& (the Cndle of Jesus)<— peace be upon Him ! — ^and thejr have suspended a gceat number of lamps there of silver and of biass^ that are lighted eveiy night" (N. Kh., 33.) During the occupation of the Cnisaden, the Templars used these substructures under the south-east angle of the Haram Area for the stabling of their horses, and by the Latin chroniclers the place is mentioned under the name of the Stables of Solomon. 'Ali of Herat, who wrote in 1 173, during the Latin occupation, speaks of these substructures under this name. He writes : ** Below the Haram Area are the Stables of Solomon, where he kept his beasts ; and they say there are here in the walls stonos of enormous size, and the mangers for the beasts are to be seen even to this day. There are also here the Caverns known as the Cradle of Jesus, the son of Mary — ^peace be upon Him 1" (A. H., Oxf. MS., f. 39.) Previous to the advent of the Crusaders, many buildings stood in the great Court of the Noble Sanctuary, no traces of which remain at present ; and, from the descriptions of Mujir ad Din and Suy(iti, many would seem to have already disappeared at the date of Saladin's re-occupation of the Holy City. Thus N&sir-i- Khusrau, in 1047, writes : In the Court of the Haram Area, but not upon the Platform, is a building resembling a small Mosque. It lies towards the north side, and is a walled enclosure (AadMraA), built of squared stones, with walls of over a man's height It is called the Mihrftb D&ftd (or the Omtoiy of David). Near this enclosure is a rock, standing up about as high as a man, and the summit of it, which is uneven, is rather smaller than would suffice for spreading thereon a (prayer) rug. This place they say was the Throne of Solomon (Kursi Sulaiman), and they relate that Solomon — peace be upon him I — sal thereon while occupied with building the Nol)le San( tu.ir) ."' '1 iii.^ Mihrab Daiid, which is said to be n the northern portion of the Haram Area, and near the Kutm Siuaiman, can hardly be the place named at present the "Oratory of David," which is a niche in the i;reat sou/A wall ot the Haiam Area. It is probably the same building as the Kubbat Sulaiman of Mujir ad Din, Digitized by Google 168 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. before the B&b al 'Attn, and immediately to the south-west of that gate.' (Plan facing p. 173^ at V.) As regards the identification of the Mihrib of David, Suyiitl, writing in 1470, discusses the subject in the following terms : " Now, as to the Mihr&b D&dd, there is diversity of opinion as to its identification. Some say it is the great Mihrftb, which is in the south wall of the Haiam Area; others, that it is the great Mihr&b in the neighbourhood of the Mimbar (or pulpit of the Aksa Mosque). The author of the work called Al Fath al Kudst asserts that the Mihrah of David is in the Castle of the Holy City, ill the place where David was wont to pray. For his dwelling being in the Castle, here, als(3, was his place of worship. Now, the Mihr^b, whereof mention, by Allah, is made in the Kiin^n in the words (chapter xxxviii. 20), * When they mounted the wall of the Mihral)/ is generally admitted to !)e the Mihrab of David, where he prayed, and this was situated in the Castle, that lieing his place of worshij) ; while the si)ot now known as the great Mihrab, which is inside the Haram Area, is looked upon as the place where David was wont to pray w}ien he came into the Harnm Area. * When 'Omar came hither, he sought to follow in Davids steps, and made his prayer in the place where David had prayed. Hence the place came to be called the Mihidb of 'Omar, from the fact of his having prayed there for the first time on the day of the capitulation of Jerusalem ; but originally this had been named the Mihr&b of David. In confirmation of this is the fact of 'Omar's known veneration of this spot For when he asked of Ra'ab^ ' Which place wishest thou that we should institute as the place of our prayer in this Sacred Area ?* and Ka'ab had answered, ' In the hinder part thereof, where it may be near the Sakhmh, so that the two Kiblahs (namely, of Moses and of Muhammad) may be united,' 'Omar had said, 'O Ahu Ishak, so thou wouldst act still in Jew fashion? Are \ve not a people to whom the forepart of the Holy Area belongs as of right ?'* Then 'Omar marked out the Mihrah, which had been that of David, and where he had been wont to worshij) in the Haram Area. Thus 'Omar's opinion, and* his veneration for this spot, both confirm the view that David, in « Sec p. 14a. Digitized by Gopgle JERUSALEM, 169- ancient times, had fixed on this place, and had chosen the same as his place of prayer." (S., 262 264.) Besides the building called the Oratory of David, Nasir mentions two other Domes as standing in the nortlieni jxirt of the Haram Area. The first of these — the I^ome of Jacob (Kubbat Ya'kub) — he says, stood near the colonnade, running along the wall from the present Bab Hittah — then called the Gate to the Cloisters of the Suiis — to the north-west angle of the Haram Area. (See below, p. 176 ; also on Plan facing p. 150, at X.) The other dome stood apparently in the north-east angle of the Haiam Area (Plan facing p. 150, W>. It was called the Oratory of Zachariah (Mihr&b Zakariyyfi). Of this no trace remains at the present day. The Dome of Jacob is probably that now known under the name of the Kubbat SuUum^n, the Dome of Solomon. (Plan facing p. 172, U.) * Concerning the Throne of Solomon » which Mukaddasi and Ndsir both mention, the following traditional account is given by SuyOtt: "It is also related that Solomon — dod's prophet — when he had finished the building (of the Temple), sacrificed three thousand heifers and seven thousand ewes at the place which is in the after (or northern) part of the Haram Area, in the vicinity of the Bab al Asbat (the Gate of the Tribes). This is the spot which is now occupied by the i)uildiiig called the Throne of Solomon." (S., 258 ; see Plan facing ]>. 172, V.) This passage is copied by Mujir ad Din, who, however, adds that, according to the received tradition of his day, the place which is known as the KursI Sulatman is within the dome known aM the Dome of Sulaimdn, near the Bkh ad Duwaidariyyah. (M. a. D., Ill ; Plan facing p. 172, U.) Of other Domes, Mujtr ad Din (in 1496} mentions the follow- 119: Kubbat Mils& (the Dome of Moses) stands opposite the Bdb as Silsilah (the Gate of the Chain). It i» not called after Moses, and has no traditional connection with him. It was rebuilt in 649 and was anciently called Kubbat ash Shajaiah, the Dome of the Tree." (M. a. D., 375.) Digitized by Google I70 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. " Kubbat at Tdtn^, the Dome of the Roll, stands on the edge of the platform at the south-east comer." (M. a. D., 376.) Speaking of the minarets of the Haxam Area, Mujir ad Din writes : "The four minarets occupy the same position as did those of the days of 'Abd al Malik. The first of them is at the south- west angle of the Haram Area, above the Madrasah of Fakhr ad IMn. The second is above the Gate of the Chain. The third is at the north-west angle, and is called Mftdhanat al GhawUnimah. It is near the gate of that name (Plan facing p. 172, at F), and was rebuilt about the year 697 ( 1 298). The fourth is the minaret iHstween the Gate of the Tribes and the Gate Hittah. It was rebuilt in 769 (1367). ' (M. a. 1)., 379, 380.) In conclusion it maybe useful briefly to recapitulate the winuus minor Domes and Shrines of the Haram Area, mentioned by the authoriiics prior to the first Crusade, after which date so many alterati<;ns were cnTectcd among the edifices of the Noble Sanctuary-. 'I'lie present 1 )ome of the As<:ension is that called the Dome of the rrophet, Ijy Ibn al Fakih ; the Dome of the Ascension, by iioth il)n Abd Rabbih and Mukadda&i ; and the Dome of the Prophet, by Nisir*i-Khusrau. The present Dome of Gabriel (close to the Dome of the Kock) is that called the Station of Jibrail, by Ibn al Fakih; the Prayer- ttation of JibriUl, by ibn 'Abd Rabbih ; the Dome of the Prophet, by Mukaddasi ; and the Dome of Jibrftll, by NIsir-i-Khusrau'. The Dome where the Prophet prayed with the Former Prophets is mentioned by Ibn 'Abd Rabbih. Mukaddasi also speaks of the Station of the Prophet, and the Station of Gabriel, as among the Shrines in the Haram Area. The Station of Al Khidr (St. Geoige or Elias) is mentioned by Ibn al Fakih, Ibn 'Abd Rabbih and Mukaddasi, the last naming il a Mihrdb. The present Cradle of Jesus is mentioned by Ibn al Fakih, Ibn 'Abd Rabbih, Mukaddasi, and Nasir i-Khusrau, who also speak of the Mihrab Maryain, and the Mihral) Zakariyyah. Another Mihrub Zakariyyah, or Dome, near the norili west ani^le of the Haram Area, is also mentioned by Nasir-i-Khusrau ^ -^unknown at the present day). Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 171 The Cave of Abraham is mentioned by Ibn al Faktb, and the Minaret of Abraham by Ibn 'Abd Rabbih (both unknown at the present day). The Plaice of the Ant, the Place of the Fire, and the Phure of the Ka'abah, are all mentioned by MukaddasL The MihrSb of Jacob is mentioned by Ibn al Fakih, Ibn 'Abd Rabbih, and Mukaddasi : the Dome of Jacob, in the north part of the Noble Sanctuary, is described by Nasir-i-Khusrau. The Mihrab of David, in the north part of the Haram Area, is mentioned by Nasir-i-Khusrau. The Throne of Solomon is mentioned by ibn 'Abd Rabbih and Nasir-i-Khusrau. The place of the Bridge l)et\veen Heaven and Hell, called As Sirat, IS mentioned by Ibn al Fakih, Ibn 'Abd Rabbih, and MukaddasL The tying-up place of the steed Bur&k is mentioned by Ibn al Faklh and Ibn 'Abd Rabbih. Digitized by Google in PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, The Goldeo Gate. REFERENCES TO THE PLAN OF TIIK HARAM AREA AT THE PRESENT DAY. A. Bab as SilsiUh, Gate of the Chain. B. B4b al Mutawadda, Gale of the Place of the AUntion ; or Bab al Mat&xabt Gate of Rain. C. Bab al Kattintn, Gate of the Cotton Merchants. D. Bab al HadJd, Gate of Iron. ^ E. Bab an Nadhir, Gate of the Inspector. * F. B&b al Ghawiinimah, Gate of the Ghflnim Family. G. Babal 'Aim, Gate of the Darkness ; also called BAb Sharaf al Anbiyft. Gate of the Glory »r the Prophets, or Btb ad DawAdariyyab, Gate of the Secretariat. H. BAb Hittah, C^ate of Remission. I. Bslb al Asbftt, Gate of the Tribes. J. BAb at Taubnh, Gale of Kepcuiance. K. BAb ar Rahroab, Gate of Mercy. L. Walled-up Gaie, anciently called 1Mb al JanAiz, Gate of the Fanerals, or BAb al Bur4k. M. Ancient ** Single Gale," walled up. K. Ancient "Triple Gate," walled up. O. Ancient " Double Gate," leading to the undei^round Passage-uay, under the Aksft Mosque. P. BAb al MaghAribah, Gate of the Western Africans ; below it is the now walled-up B&h an Nabl, Gate of the Prophet. Q. Kubbat as Silsilah, Dome of the Chain. R. Kubbat al Mi'raj, Dome of the Ascension. S. Kubbat Jibr&il, Dome of (iabriel. T. Kursi 'IsA, Throne of Jesus. U. Kubbat SukimAn, Dome of Solomon. V. Kursl Sulaiman, Throne of Solomon. W, W. Mahd 'IsA, Cradle of Jesus, and the St.iMes of Solomon. X. Madrasah, or College, called Al F.^risiyyali. Y. Jami' al MaghAribah, or Mosque of the Moghrebius. Z. BAka'at al BaidA, called incorrectly the Old AksA, in Crusading times the Armonry of the Templars. Digitized by Google Digitized by Google Digitized by Google CHAPTER V. JERUSALEM {coniiniuJ). The Gates of the Haram ArcA— The Colonnades— Size of the HaiMa Ai«a— The Tanks and Pools. Tht Church of the Resurrection : The Miracle of ihc Holy Fiic — The Garden of Gethse«nane — The Tomb of the Virgin — Paler Noiter Church and Bethanf— The Churdi of the Ascension and of the Jacobites— The Chnrch of Sion and Galiicanius. City Gates: The Castle— /fWi JahannHm and the Tomb of Al>salom. The Plain, As Sdhirah: The Pool of Siloam— The Well of Job- Cavern of Kocab. THE GATES OF THE HARAM AREA. In the identification of the Gates leading Into the Haram Aiea, named in the various authorities, I cannot do better than quote verbatim from a paper contributed by Colonel Sir C. Wilson to the Palestine Exploralion Fund "Quarterly Statement ' for July, 1888 (p. 141), whi( h is also inserted as Appendix C to my translation of Nasir i Khusraii's Diary, jjublished in the Palestine Pilgrim Texts. In these ])roposed idciuiCications I thoroughly concur, and take this opportunity of expressing how inuch I feel indebted to Sir C. Wilson for tlie aid he has afforded me in clearing up this somewhat knotty point. Before, however, entering on the subject of the identification of the Gates, it will be convenient to recapitulate the lists given by Ibn al Fakih, and Ibn *Abd Rabbih, our two earliest authorities. Following this will come Mukaddasi's list, then Nasir-i Khusrau's detailed notice of the Gates in 1047, after which we shall be in a position to discuss the identification of the various names recorded of the ancient Gates with those that at present exist. Jbn al Faklh, 903, and Ibn 'Abd Rabbih* 913, the two earliest attthorities, do not apparently attempt to name the Gates inj^nbr^ 174 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. but oiil\ at haphazard and incidentally to the general account of the Domes and Mihrabs of the Haram Area. These Gates they mentioned are the following (see above, pp. 1 61-164) • Ibn al Fak!h. Ibn 'Abd Rabbih. mh Diad. Bab DaAd. Hah SulaiiiKin. lialj Hiuah. Bab Muhammad. B4b at Taubah. Bdb ar Rahmah. Abw^b al Asbat (six in number). Bkb D4r Umm KMlid. Bab al Walid. Bab al Hashimt. Bab al Khidr. BAbasSakinah. The next list is that given by Miikaddasi in 985. He writes; "The Haram Area is enrcred through thirteen openings, closed by a score of Gates. These are : (r) The B&b Hittah (the Gate of Remission). (2) The two Gates of the Ptophet (3) The Gates of the Mihrflb Maryam (the Gates of Mary's Oratory). (4) The two Gates Ar Rahmah (of Mercy). (5) The Gate of the Hirkat (Pool of) Bani Israil. (6) The (jates Al Asl)at (of the Tribes). (7) The Hashiniite Gates. (8) The Gate of Al Walid. (9) The Gate of Ibrahim (Abraham). (10) The Gate of Umm Khalid (the Mother of KhAKd). (u) The Gate DkM (David)." (Muk., 170.) In his etilc^ on the beauties of Jerusalem, Mukaddasi further mentions "the Bdb as Saktnah (The Gate of the Shechinah) Bab Hittah. Bib an Nabi. Bab at Taubah. Bah al VVadi. Bab ar Rahmah. Abwib al Asb^t. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, «75 and the Kubbat as Silsilah (the Dome of the Chain). ' (Muk., 151.) Between Mukaddasi's descriptions in 985, and Nasir's visit in 1047, the earthquakes occurred which so seriously damaged the Aksa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock. (See p. 101) The Gates doubtless also suffered damage; the walls of the Hanun Area, as we know from the inscri])tions (see p. toi), were cer* tainly in part overthrown j and when the Gateways were rebuilt after the earthquakes, they presumably were given in some cases riiew names. Nisir-i-Khusrau writes of the Gates in the following terms : " The Area of the Noble Sanctuary is paved with stone, the joints being set in lead. (i.* ) *' As we have said before^ the Hanun Area lies in the eastern part of the city ; and through the bazaar of this (quarter) you enter the Area by a great and beautiful gateway, that measures 30 dls (60 feet) in height, by 20 across. The gateway has two wings, in which open halls, and the walls of Iwth gateway and halls are adorned with coloured enamels, set in plaster, cut into patterns so btauiiful that tlie eye becomes dazzled in contem- plating them. Over the gateway is an inscription, which is set in the enamels, giving the titles of the Sultan (who is the Fatimite tvhalif) of Egypt; and when the sun's rays fall on this it shines so that the sidit is he\\ildered at the splendour thereof. There is also a great Dome that crowns this gateway, which is built of squared stones. Closing the gateway are two carefully-con- structed doors. These are faced with Damascene brass-work, which you would take to be gold, for they are gilt, and orna- mented with figured designs. Each of these doors is 15 ells (30 feet) in height, by 8 ells across. The gateway we have just described is called the Bab Daad (the Gate of David)— peace be upon him I '* After passing this Gateway of David (and entering the Haram Area), you have, on the right, two great colonnades,t each * The ronsftn numerals show the order of the gates ss they occur in the wills, and are here added for purposes of reference. (See Plan facing p. 150 ) f These colonnades ^ along the western wall of the Haram Area (see p. 190). Digitized by Google 176 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. of whick has nine-and*twenty marble pillars^ wliose capitals and bases are of coloured marbles, and the joints are set in 'lead. Above the pillars rise arches that are constructed of masonry without mortar or cement, and each arch is constructed of no more than five or six blocks of stone. 'I hese colonnades lead down to near the Maksfirah (or Main-huildin^^ of the Aksd Mosijuc).* On your left hand (as you enter the (latc of David), and towards the north, there is likewise a long colonnade with sixty-four arches, supported by marble pillars. (ii.) "In this part of the wall (that is, in the colonnade between the Gate of David and the north-west an^le of the Haram Area) is the (iate called Bah as Sakar (Oate of Hell). (iv.) " in the north part (ot the Haram Area) is a double gate- way, the Gates of which are placed side by side, each being 7 ells across, by 1 2 high. This gateway is called the Bab al Asbat (the Gate of tlie Tribes). (v.) "When you have passed this Gate of the Tribes, there lis still another great gateway in the breadth of the Haxam Area Xor the North Wall) in the portion running east^yard. There are here three Gates side by side, of a like size to the Bkh al Asbdt, and they are each fashioned in iron, and adorned with brass, than which nothing can be finer. These (three) gates they call the BSb al Abwab (the Gate of Gates), for the reason that, whereas elsewhere -the gateways are only double, there is here •a triple gateway. "Running along the north part of the Haram Area, and between the two gateways just mentioned, is a colonnade, with arches that rest on solid pillars ; and adjacent thereto, a Dome that is supported by tall columns, and adorned with lamps and lanterns. This is called Kubbat Ya'kiib (the Dome of Jacob) — peace be upon him ! — for at this spot was his place of ])rayer. (iii.) " And further along the breadth (or Northern \\ all) of the Haram Area is a colonnade, in the wall of which is a Gate that leads to two Cloisters belonging to ihe Sdfis, who iiave their * The MaiD'building of the Aksi Moiique » often referred to by Nflstr unHer the denomination of the '* M»k$6rah," which more properly is the name given to the railed oratory for the Sultan which the Mosque contains* Digitized by Google Digitized by Gopgle JERUSALEM, «77 place of prayer here, and have built a fine Mihrab (or oratory). There are always in residence a number of SOfls, who make this (oratory) the place of their daily devotions ; except on Friday, when they go into the Noble Sanctuary, in order to attend the service of prayer therein. At the north (west?) angle of the Haram Area is a fine colonnade^ with a large and beautiful Dome. On this Dome* there is an inscription, stating that this* was the Oratory (Mihrfib) of Zakariyyft die Prophet — ^peace be upon him ! — for thoy say that he was wont to continue ceaselessly in prayer at this spot (vi,) " In the Eastern Wall of the Haram Area there is a great gateway skilfully built of squared stones, so that one liiighi almost say that iiio whole was carved out of a single block. Its height is 50 ells (100 feet), and its width 30, and it is sculptured and orna- mented throughout. There arc ten beautiful doors in this gateway (set so close) that between any two of them there is not the space of a foot. These doors are all most skilfully wrought in iron and Dama>rcne l)rass work, set in with l)olts and rings. They say this gateway was constructed by Solomon, son of David — peace be upon him ! — to please his father. VVhen you enter this gateway, facing east, there are two great doors. The one on your right hand is called Bab ar Rahmah (the Gate of Mercy), and the other Bab at Taubah (the Gate of Repentance) ; and they say of this last that it is the Gate where God — be He exalted and glorified I — accepted the repentance of David— upon whom be peace t " Near this gateway is a beautiful Mosque, t In former times it was only a hall, but they turned the hall into a Mosque. It is spread with all manner of beautiful carpets, and there are servants especially appointed thereto. This spot is greatly frequented of the people, who go to pray therein, and seek com- munion with God — ^be He exalted and glorified !— for this being the place where David — peace be upon him \ — was vouchsafed repentance, other men may hope to be turned likewise from their sinfulness. " * Of this building no trace now exists. See p. 169. + This I understand to rt?fer to a I)in1d!n5::j occiipyinq; the pn^^itlnn of what is now known as Kursi Sulaiiuan, the Throne of bolomon (Plan facing p. 172, at V). 12 Digitized by Google 178 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. After describing the Mosque of the Cradle of Jesus and the Great Aksi Mosque (see pp. 105, 166), N^r continues : "Beyond the Main-buiiding (of the Aks&), along the great (south) wall (of the Hamm Area) afore-mentioned, rises a colon- nade of two-and-forty arches,* the columns being all of coloured marble. This colonnade joins the one that is along the west (wall of the Area). Inside the Main-building (of the Aksft) there is a tank in the ground, which, when the cover is set on, lies level with the floor, and its use is for the rain-water, which, as it comes down, drains therein. (viii.^) " In the south wall (of the Haram Area) is a gate leaduiL; to the places for the ablution, where there is running water. When a jierson has need to make the ahkition (before prayer), he goes down to this place, and acconi]jlishcs what is prescribed ; for had the place (of ablution) been set without the walls, by reason of the great size of the Haram Area, no one could ha\ e returned in time, and before the appointed hour for prayer had gone by. "As I have written above, the Holy City stands on the summit of a hill, and its site is not on level ground. Tlie place, however, where the Noble Sanctuary stands is flat and on the level ; but without the Area the enclosing wall varies in height in different places, seeing that where the fall is abrupt, the Haram wall is the highest, for the foundation of the wall lies at the bottom of the declivity ; and where the ground mounts, the wall, on the other hand, has, of need, been built less high. Wherever, in the city itself and in the suburbs, the level is below that in- the Haram Area, they have made gateways, like tunnels cut through the ground, that lead up into the Court (of the Noble Sanctuary). (viii.) **One such as these is called B&b an Nabt (or the Gate of the Prophet) — peace and blessing be upon htm ! — ^which opens towards the Kiblah point — that is, towards the south. (The passage-way of this gate) is 10 ells broad, and the height varies by reason of the steps. In one place it is 5 ells high, and in * See p. 191. This is in Ibe space afterwards occupied hy the Hall erected bjthe Knights Templars for their armoury, and which at the present day opens from the Aksk Mosque, and b called Bak&'at al Baidba, or Aks4 al Kadimab. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 179 otheis the roof of the passage-way is 20 ells above you. Over this passage-way has been erected the Main-building of the (Aks&) Mosque ; for the masonry is so solidly Iaid» that they have been able to raise the enormous building that is seen here without any damage arising to what is below. They have made use of stones of such a size, that the mind cannot conceive how, by human power, they were carried up and set in place. It is said, however, that the huildinLr was accomplished by Solomon, the son of David — peace be upon him! The Prophet— peace and blessing be upon him on the night of his ascent into heaven, passed into the Nol)le Sanctuary through this passage-way, for the gateway opens on the road from Makkah. Near it, in the wall, is seen the imprint on the stone of a great shield. It is said to be that of Hamzah ibn 'Abd al Mutallib, the Prophet's uncle — peace be upon him I — who once seated himself here with his shield slung on his back, and, leaning against the wall, left the mark of the same thereon. This gateway of the Haram leading into the tunnelled passage-way is closed by a double-leafed door, and the wall of the Haram Area outside it is of a height of near upon 50 ells. The reason for the piercing of this gateway was to enable * the inhabitants of the Suburb lying obliquely beyond to enter the Haram Area at their pleasure without having to pass through other quarters of the city. To the right of this gateway there is in the wall a block of stone 11* cubits high and 4 cubits across ; and this is larger than any of the other stones of the wall, although there are many that measure 4 and 5 ells across, set in the masonry at a height of 30 and 40 ells.'' (vii.) "In the width of the Haram Area there is a gate, open- ing towards the east, called Bab al *Ain (or the Gate of the Spring), passing out from which you descend a declivity to the Spring of Silwan (Siloam).'' (ix.) "There is also another gate, the passage-way of which is excavated in the ground, and it is rnlled Bab al Hittah (the Gate of Remission). 'I'iiey say that this is the gate by which God — be He exalted and glorified I — commanded the children of Israel to enter the Noble Sanctuary, according to His word — be He * Other MSS. read ** fifteen." These are the stones in the Great Course, 12 — a Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. exalted 1— (in the Kurdn, chapter ii. 55); * Enter ye the gate with prostrations, and say (Hittah), Remission! and We will pardon you your sins, ahd give an increase to the doers of good.' " (i.a.) " There is still another gate (to the Haram Area), and it is called Bib as Saktnah (the Gate of the Shechinah, or Divine Presence) ; and in the hall adjacent thereto is a mosque that has many Mihribs (or prayer-niches). The door of the entrance thereof is barred, so that no one can pass through. They say that the Ark of the Shechinah, which God — be He exalted and glorified ! — has alluded to in the Kurftn, was once placed here, but was borne away by angels. The whole number of gates, both upper and lower, in the Noble Sanctuary of the Holy City is nine, as we have here enumerated them." (N. Kh., pp. 29-32, 39-43.) The key to the puzzle presented by the varied nomenclature of ihc gales of the Haram Area cannot be better given than in Sir C. Wilson's own words. He writes : * A comi)arison of the descriptions of Mukaddasi (9S5 a.d.) and Nasir-i-Khusrau (1047 a.d.) with each other, and with the description of Mujir ad Din {1496 ad.) and existing remains, enables me to identify many of the i;atcs with some degree of certainty, and to show that a change took place in the Arab nomenclature of tlv gates between the eleventh and fifteenth centuries — possibly when Jerusalem was captured by Saladin. Nasir describes the Bab an Nabi (Gate of the Prophet) beneath the Mosque Al Aksa in such terms as to leave no doubt of its identification with the double gateway and passage leading upwards from it beneath the Mosque to the Haram Area. He also mentions another gate — ^B&b Hittah (Gate of Remission) — ^as being excavated in the ground; and the only known gate of the Haram of this character is the closed Gate of Muhammad, or of the Prophet, beneath the Bab al Magh&ribah. If, now, we turn to Mukaddasi's list of gates, we find that he commences with B&b Hittah, that his second gate is ' the two Gates of the Prophet,' and that he ends with the Gate DaOd, which is, without dispute, the Bab as Silstlah (the Gate of the Chain) of the present day. The inference I draw from this is that ^^kaddabi named the gates in order, commencing wiih the Bab Digitized by Google Digitized by Gopgle JERUSALEM, l8l Hittah, md ending with the B&b D4fid, and not, as might have been supposed, at haphazard. 'In attempting to identify the Gates with those which now exist, it is necessary to bear in mind that the Haram Area, with its buildings and the approaches to it, has been much altered at various periods, as, for instance, duiiiig the Latin kingdom, after the recapture of the city by the Saracens, and when the walls were rebuilt by the Sultan Sulaiman in the sixtcciuh century.' Taking the Hst in the order given by Mukaddasi, and beginning with the Bdb Hittah, we must reverse the order of Xusir's enumera- tion, who, entering at the Ik'ib Daud, and turning to the /ty'/, takes the (iates in tlie contrary order to that we shall now follow. To the description given by Nasir (already quoted ) are here added the few notes taken from later authorities, ending with what SuyOti, writing in 1470, has to tell of the history of the Gates after their restoration at the hands of Saladin's successors. Suyuti's description has been copied verbatim by Mujir ad Din, who has added nothing to what he has borrowed without acknow* ledgment from his predecessor. The substance of the proposed identifications here following is taken from Sir C. Wilson's paper referred to above. Mukaddasi's B^b Hittah (i)* (Gate of Remission) is the B&b al Hittah (ix.) of N&sir, described (above, p. 179} as "excavated in the ground.^ Ibn al Fakth and Ibn 'Abd Rabbih both mention this Bkb Hittah (see p. 174). After the Crusaders, however, it appears to have changed its name, and the old Hah Hittah can only be identified with the present Bdb al iiuiak, or Bab an Xabi Muliannnad (often called "Barclay's Gate whii h lies hall underground, and which may now be entered beneatli the modern Bah al Magharibah. Of the present Bab al Maghariljah al)ove this ancient Gate, Suydti writes as follows: "Bab al Magharibah (the (iate of the Mogrebins or Western Africans) is so called from its beuig in the neighbour- hood of the Gate of the Mosque of the Mogrebins« where * The Arabic numerals (i) to (11), and the Roman numerals (t.) to (tx.) refer respectively to Mukaddasi's and N4sir's enamcfatton of the Gates given on pp. 174- 18a Digitized by Google l82 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. they have their prayers. The quarter named from this Gate lies at the south-eastern comer of the- City. This Gate is also called B4b an Nabi (the Gate of the Prophet)." (S., 268 ; U, SL D., 383.) Mukaddasi's *'Two Gates of the Prophet** (3) (with Ibn al Fakth's Bib an Nabl and Ibn 'Abd Rabbih's B&b Muhammad) must correspond mth NAsir's '*Gate of the Prophet" (viii.), which is described as l>eing like a tunnel in the South Wall, under the Aksa, and leading up by steps into the Court of the Haram Area (sec p. 17S). This Gate (viii.) is, doubtless, the same as that referred to (viii.rt) by Nasir in another paragraph (p. 17S) as "leading to the places for the ablution ' — remains of ^vater-pipes and cells being still shown at this point in the sub- structures of the Aksa ; for the an< ient Gat*,- of the Prophet under the Aksa can only be the so-called Double Gaky long since walled up, but still to be seen closing the southern side of the vaults under the Aks^* These vaults in Mujir ad Din's time (1496) were known as^ Ai Aksd al Kadimah^ the Ancient Aksa. (M. a. I)., 379.) As late as the date of Ibn BatOtah's visit, in I35S» if we are to believe that traveller's account, the gateway here was still open. He writes : " On three sides (of the Haram Area) are many Gates, but on the Kiblah (or south) side it has, as &r as I know, only one Gate, which is that by which the Imim enters." (I. B^ i. 121.) This Gate is not mentioned by either SuyAtt or MujIr ad Dtn. Mukaddast's "Gates of the Mihr&b Maryam" (3) must have stood close to the Mihr&b of Mary (now called the Cradle of Jesus), mentioned by the same authority (see p. 165); these Gates a])parently correspond with the B&b al 'Ain (the Gate of the Spring), described by Nasir (vii.), by which one could go down to Siloam (see p. 179). TIil ancient "Single Gate,"' or perhaps with greater ]>robability the ancient "Triple Ciate -both in the eastern part of the South Wall, and leading to the sub- * The initiation opposite shows the present appeamnce of this ancient paasage>way. The view is taken from a point immediately within the walled* np i^'aitway in the South Wall. The illustrations facing pp. 177 and 181 show the position and present appearance of ihe Double Gate from without. Digitized by Google I Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 183 structures of the " Cradle of Jesus and the " Stables of Solomon," and both of which Gates are now walled up — must, one or the other, be the modern representative of this Gate. The Templars, as before noted, stabled their horses in these substructures; and after Saladin's conquest of the Holy City, all means of egress from the Haram Area, except west and north through the city, being closed, all these Gates then came to be walled up.t Ibn al Faklh speaks of a B&b al W&di (see p. 161), which, from its name^ would appear likely to have opened on the W&di Jahannum (Kedron), on the east of the Haxam Area. In this part of the Haram Wall, and somewhat to the south of the " Golden Gate/' may still be seen a walled-up door, which probably occupies the position of the gateway mentioned by Ibn al Faklh. Of this walled-up Gate^ Mujtr ad Din notes as follows: "In the Eastern Wall of the Haram Area, to the south of the Gates of Mercy and Repentance, is a fine Gate now closed with masonry. It lies opposite the stei)s leading down from the Platform (of the Dome of the Rock) called Daraj (the Steps of) al Burak. Some say this was the Gate al Burak by which the l*rophet entered on the occasion of his Night Journey. It was also formerly called Bab al Janaiz (the Gate of the Funerals), for the funerals went out by it in ancient tiiiies." (M. a. !>., 380.) Apparently somewhere in this part of the wall there was yet another Gate, called the (iate of Jericho -not to be confounded wiih the Ci'(y Gate of that name (see p. 214), now called the (late of SL Stephen. Mujir ad Din speaks of this Gate of Jericho as near the spot where Muhammad ibn Kurram— founder of the Kurramite sect — ^was buried in 255 (869). He adds : **The Gate known as the Gate of Jericho has disappeared long ago^ and since the Frank occupation there is no trace of it. Apparently it must originally have opened at a place near the further end of the houses that are towards the Mount of Olives." (M. a. D., 262.) Ibn al Faklh's and Ibn 'Abd Kabbih's Bab ar Rahmah, and the • The accompanying illastrations show the present appearance of these two walled-u^i Gates, the position of which in the South Wall is shown in the illustration facing p*. 177. Digitized by Google t84 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, "Two Gates Ar Rahmah" of Mukaddasi {4}, are the Bftb ar Rahmah and the B&b at Taubah (vi.) of Nisir (see p. 177), namely, the great dosed gateway in the East Wall, known at the present day to Europeans as the Golden Gat&* This Gateway is still known to the Mmlifns under the name of the Gates of Mercy and Repentance. SuyOiti's account of it is as follows : "The Bab ar Ralimah (the (iate of Mercy) lies to the east of the Aksa Mosque, and is in the wall of which Allah iia.-. made mention in the words (of the Kunln, Ivii. 13): 'But between them (the Hypocrites and the Believers on the Judgment day) shall be set a wall with a gateway, within which is Mercy, while without the same is the Torment.' The valley which lies beyond this Gate is the Wad? Jahannum. The Gate of Mercy itself is inside the wall which encloses the Haram Area, and the Gate referred to in the above verse of the Kur&n as on the W4di Jahannum, is now closed, and will only be opened at some future time, and by the will of Allah — be He exalted ! And as to Bab at Taubah (the Gate of Repentance), it joins and makes one with the Gate of Mercy, but through neither of them at the present day do men pass. Near the Gate of Repentance, and thus between the Gate of Mercy and the Gate of the Tribes, is the house {Maskin) of Al Khidr and Iliyds (St George and Elias)." (S., 265 ; M. a. D., 380.) This, the so-called Golden Gate, according to M. de Vogil^ {Le TempU dc Jerusalem, p. 68), who judges from the architectural character of the building, dates from Byzantine times only, and, in fact, was probably completed as late as the sixth century a.d. The denomination of the " Golden Gate " does not occur ap- parciiil} before the thirteenth cc-ntury (SLewult'), and tlie name (Porta Aurea) is due to a misunderstanding by the mediaeval pilgrims, whose knowledge of Greek was rudimentary, ot wf>a/a, "the gate called Beautiful," mentioned, in Acts iii. 2, as the spot where St. Peter healed the lame man. I lie site of this miracle, which must, from the context, have been performed near one of the inner gates of the remi)le. the early [)ilLrrims and the Crusaders, proceeding in their usually arbitrary manner, saw fit to locate at this Byzantine structure. * See the illustration facing p. 177. Digitized by Google Digitized by Google Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 185 Mukaddasi's "Gate of the Birkat Bani Isniir' (5) must be the easternmost gate in the north wall of the Haiam Area, which Ndsir (sec p. 176) calls the B&b al Abwftb (the Gate of Gates) (v.), and which, since Crusading days, has always been known as the Bab al Ahbat (the Gate of the Tribes). Suyiiti writes of this gate as follows : " Bab al Asbat (the Gate of the Tribes) is in the hinder (or northern) part of the Haram Area, not far from the house of Al Khidr and Iliyas (St. Cieorge and Elias). In the work called Fadiiil Bait al Mukaddas (the ' Excellences of the Holy City'), by the \\bS^^\\ Abu Bakr nl Wnsiti the Khdtib, there is mention made of the Bal) Maskin al Khidr (the Gate ot Al Khidr's house) as standing here ; but the author of the Muthir al Ghirdm gives no indication of any such gate having existed, although he mentions the house of Al Khidr when enumerating the saints who entered and sojourned in the Holy City. The author of the Kitdb al Uns, on the authority of Shahr ibn Jaushab, states that the house of Al Khidr is in the Holy City, at a spot between the Gate of Mercy and the Gate of the Tribes ; and he goes on to say that Al Khidr was wont to pray every Friday in five dtfierent mosques — ^namely, in the Mosque of Makkah, and the Mosque of Al Madtnah, and the Mosque of Jerusalem, and the Mosque of Kub& (two miles south of Al Madtnah), and on evetf Friday night in the Mosque of Sinai." (S., 266 ; M. a. D., 381.) From the preceding paragraj)h it naturally follows that the Gate of the Tribes (Bah al Ashat) mentioned by Ibn al Eakih and Ibn 'Abd Rabbih (pp. 161, 164), also the gate of this name men- tioned by Mukaddasi (6), and (iv.) described by Nasir (see p. 176) as opening in the north wall west of the "Gate of Gates, " must be identified with the gate, now and ever since Crusading times called Bab al Hittah (the Gate of Remission). Suyiiti, as will be seen, applies to this (northern) gate (writing in 1470) the legendary account which Nasir (in 1047) related anent the more ancient P.ab Hittah at the south-west corner of the Haram Area. Suy(kti writes : Bdb Hittah (the Gate of Remission) is so called because the children of Israel were directed to enter their house of prayer thereby, saying, 'Remission, O Lord, for our sins.' The following is given on the uthority of 'Ali ibn Sall^i ibn Digitized by Gopgle PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, 'Abd ai> Salldm, who was told by his father that he had heard Abu Muhammad ibn 'Abd as Sallam state as follows — namely, that the Brazen Gate,* which is in the (Aksa) Mosque, is the (cclel)rated) Bab al Hamal al Ausat (the middle Ram Gate), and is of the workmanship of the Chosroes ; and that the brazen gate which closes the (main) gatewayf of the Haram Area is the Gate of David, through which he was wont to pass, going from Sion to Solomon's Market-'place ; while, lastly, the gate of the gateway known at present (in 1470) as the B&b Hittah(Gate of Remission) was formerly at Jericho^ which city having come to ruin, the gate was transported from thence to the Noble Sanctuary." (S,, 267 ; The Hashimite Gates mentioned by Mukaddasi (7)» and possibly the gate of the same name (but noted in inversed order) given by Ibn 'Abd Rabbih (see p. 164), most probably correspond to the gate (iii.) said by Kiisir (p. 176) to lead to the Cloisters of the Sufis, and to open in the north wall west of his (NSsir's) Bib al Asbat. It would, therefore, correspond with the modem Bab al 'Atm (Gate of the Darkness), which Suydti notes was, in his day (as at the present time), also called " Bab Siiat j! .il Anbiya (the Gate of the Glory of the Prophets). It is iliai now, further, called Bab ad Dawidariyyah4 it opens from the northern side of the Haram Area." (S.. 267 : M. a. D., 382.) Mukaddasi's Bab al \S alid (8) (mentioned, but in different order, by Ibn 'Abd Rabbih) is possibly the present Ikib al Ghawanimah (the northernmost in the west wall), of which Suyftti speaks in the following terms. That, as he states, it was anciently called the Gate of Abraham does not, however, correspond with what follows in Mukaddasi, where the next gate (lying to the south, presumably, of the Bab al Walid) is called the Bab Ibrahim. Possibly, however, the names had become interchanged, as we have ahready seen was the case in other instances. SuyQti s description is as follows : " Bib al Ghaw&nimah (the Gate of the • See p. 99. t The present B:tl) as Silsilah. X The Dawid&riyyah is the house of the Dawidjlr— more correctly the i^wAt-d&r — or Secretary, a Pcr^iiaii word signifying " he who cairieil ihe ink- ^Qd." It i» also spelt Duwaidariyyah. M. a. D., 381.) Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. Men of the Family of Gh&nim*) is that adjoining the Lieutenant's Palace (the D&r an Niy&bah). It is the first (or northernmost) on the western side of the Haram Area. Anciently, it is said, this gate was called Bftb al Khalll (the Gate of Abraham ' the Friend ')." (S., 267 J M. a. I)., 383.) Mukaddasi's Bab Ibrahim (9), if the foregoing identification be accepted, would then correspond with the Ikib as Sakar (Gate of Hell), which Xasir (ii.) states is the only one opcuKiL^. in his day, in the west wall to the north of the Bdb Daud. (Sec p. 176.) This is apparently the modern Bdb an Nadhir (the Gate of the Inspector), of which Siiyiiti writes to the loilowing effect : ** Bah an Nadhir (the Gate of the In^|)ector) is a gate that is said never to have l)een restored. Anciently, it was called Hal) Mikail (the Gate of Michael) ; and, according to report, it is the gate to which Gabriel tied the steed Al Durak on the occasion of the Night Journey." (S., 267 ; M. a. D., 383.) South of this gate^ in the present western wall of the Haram Area, is one built, presumably, since Saladin's days, since no notice occurs of it in the more ancient writers. SuyQti speaks of it by the name it bears at the present day. He writes : " Bftb al Hadid (the Iron Gate) is one that has been rebuih (or recently built). Anciently, it was called after Arghdn al Kdmili,'*' who founded the Madrasah (or college) of the Arghfiniyyah, which lies on the left hand as you go out through it/' (S., 268 ; M. a. D., 383.) Mukaddasi's "Gate of the Mother of Kh&lid'' (10) (called I)tr Urom Khalid, of the House of Rhalid's Mother, by Ibn al Fakih) is prohably the modem Hub al Kattanin (the Gate of the Cotton Merchants' Bazaar) : or it might possibly be the Ljate to the north of this, called the Hah al Hadid, just described ; but this latter identification is the less likely of the two. Suyuti writes of the first-mentioned gate: "Hah al Kattanin (the Gate of the Coltun Merchants) is one «)f those liiat has been restored. Al Malik an Nasir ibn Kala'Ctn was the prince * Dc^^endams uf Shaikh GhAnim ibo *AIi, who was lx)m near NAhulus in 562 {1167), and died in 632 nt Damascus. Sal.idin made him chief of the Khinkah haJ&hiyyah, the Derwisli bouse founded by him at Jeru&alem. t Licuicnanl of Syria. He died in 758 (1357). Digitized by Google i88 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, who fiist built it; but it afterwards fell into complete ruin and disuse. When the late N&ib (Lieutenant) of Syria, Tanktz an N&siri,* built the colonnade which runs all along the western wall of the Noble Sanctuary, and the SAk al Katt&ntn (the Cotton Market), he rebuilt, at the same time^ this gate with the high portal, seen here at the present day/' (S., 268 ; M. a. D., 238.) Immediately to the south of the above comes the Gate known at the present day as B^b al Mutawadda (the Gate of the Ablutions), or Al Matarah (Gate of Rain). This is a gateway opened since Crusading time, and wl^ich Suyuti speaks ol uaucr the name of the Gate of the Reservoir. He writes: I^ad as Sikkayah (the Gate of the Reservoir) is said to be an ancient Gate. It had fallen to ruin of recent years, but when the late 'Ala ad Din Al Busirf constructed the lank for the ablution, which he gave the people, he rebuilt, too, this (kite. May it not be allowed to fall again into decay 1" (S., 268 ; M. a. D., 383.) lastly comes Mukaddasi's Bab Dadd (i t), the Great Gate of David, by which Nasir (L) begins his enumeration on entering the Haram Area. It is now known as the Bab as Silsilah (the Gate of the Chain). I'he adjoining Bab as Salim (Gate of Peace) is that alluded to by Mukaddasi (see p. 174) in his preface as the Bilb as Saklnah, and described under the same name (i.a) by NSsir (see p. 180) as having a hall and place of prayer with many Mihrabs. Of these last, no traces remain at the present day. These two Gates SuyOtt speaks of in the following words : <*BAb as Silsilah (the Gate of the Chain), and the B&b as Sakinah, stand side by side. The Bdb as Silsilah was anciently called the Bib Dtild (David's Gate). Bib as Saklnah (the Gate of the Shechinah or Divine Presence) op)ens near the Gate of the Madrasah (or College), called Al Baladiyyah ; and close by it also is the Southern Minaret. The Royal College, called Al Madrasah al Ashrafiy) aii, lies to the north of the same. ' (S., 268 ; M. a. D., 383.) The following tal)le shows in a concise manner the proposed identificaiiuns of the various Gates of the Haram Area : * Tan'ki/ al Hisami or An Nslsiri was Lieutenant of .Syria under Sultan An N^ir Muliammnd ibn Kalii'un. Tanki/, ilied "41 (1340). t He dieU in 1291 A-u. See M. a. D., p. boa. Digitized by Google yERUSALEU, 189 I *3 2 te a .c '5 « C ' a S' c-g o CI /"v s- -a — ^' •> - 2- EJ: 3 .s cs e c rt Si O u > c O 3 n c 15 .12 c rt C E a" < 5 o < < It < 2 St 3 • ■ s *c e Old Aks <• •s % «3 s . 2 » :S a a ite of ih < al Hit iifl Da al Ghi Si •a 1" Si -3 ^ 0 n «a .a <* 01 CQ s: J3»2 3 e e •— > .if ' n al Ilil 1 -a : a -= rt I o ■<sS if Si < Si n 3^ a • (3 ^ 2Q c (3 tA i c .a 00 ON s o 2 e "3 A i § of Ihc ] , Ar Kal of the ni Israil d (8 ce 3 3 to Si flQ X !2 o O O 00 "<h o -a •3 C Digitized by Google 190 PALESTMB UNDER THE MOSLEMS. THE COLONMAJ>£S. The colonnades running along the inner side of the boundary walls of the Haram Area would appear to have stood, in the early Muslim days, very much in the same positions which they now occupy. Our earliest notice of them is in Mukaddasi, who says (see p. 99) that "on the right hand" (that is, along the West Wall) ran colonnades, as also ''at the back" (that is» along the North Wall) of the Haram Area were colonnades, the oetlinp of which are describe^ as studded with mosaics. The East Wall of the Haram Area, overhanging the WSdi Jahan- num, and in which stands the Golden Gate, is stated to have no colon- nades along it. Neither was there any colonnade along the portion of the South Wall extending from the south-east angle {above the Cradle of Jesus) to the Eastern Wall of the Aksa. From these particulars it is evident that in Mukaddasi's days the Haram Area, as far as the lateral colonnades are concerned, showed exactly the appearance to be seen at the present day. Mukaddasi also states the reasons (p. 99) why the Aksfl was not placed sym- metrically in the centre of the South Wall of the Haram Area. The Persian traveller, Niisir-i-Khusrau (1047)^ gives us more exact details of these colonnades, which agree very exactly witli what Mukaddasi (985) has described. Along the West Wall Nisir states that to the right (south) of the Gate of David ran two great colonnades, each with twenty-nine marble pillars (sec p. 176). The fitw colonnades I understand to refer, the first, to that running from the Gate of David to the Gate Mb al Hittah (the present Bib al Maghiribah) ; the second, from this last Gate down to the south-west angle^ where it joined the colonnade of forty-two arches on the South Wall. (See Plan facing p. 150, //, a and g.) To the left of the Gate of David, northwards up to the north-west angle, was a long colonnade of sixty-four arches. The Gate of David (the present Gate of the Chain) had beside it another Gate called the Bab as Sakinah (the Gate of the Shechinah, or Divine Presence), which led to a hall with a small mosque adjacent, in which were many oratories. (See p. t8o.) Of this, apparently no traces remain at the present day; and Mukad- Digitized by Google yERUSALEM, 191 dasi, sixty years before Nasir, makes no mention of it as having existed in his time. The North Wall of the Haiam Area, which in Mukaddasi's days had colonnades roofed in mosaic work, had two sets of colonnades when seen by Ndsir. From the Gate at the north-east angle (the present Bib al Asb&t)» which Ndsir names the B&b al Abwdb, westwards, to the next Gate, called by him the Bib al Asbat (at present the Bib Hittah), was **a colon- nade, with arches that rested on solid pillars." (Plan facing p. 1 50, at /) And west\vard of this Gate again, presumably extending as iai ab the north-west angle, and therefore joining the colonnade along the West \Vall, were two colonnades (see p. 177, and PUm. at f and d)y one beyond the oihcr, in or near the westernmost of which was the "large and beautiful Dome" of Zachariah (I'lan, VV), of which, howew, no traces remain at the present day. TliQ ^^fe«t' uall of the Ilaram Area, overhanging the Wadi Jaha^num, had no colonnade ; and from the south-east angle, along the South Wall, " for a space of 200 ells (or 400 tect),' to the east wall of the Aksa, was (NAsir states), as at present, a hare wall The only colonnade mentioned by Nasu, of which no mention is found in Mukaddasi, is that of '* forty-two arches running along the South Wall, west of the Aksa, from the western wall of the Mosque to the south-west angle of the Haram Area, where it joined the colonnade of the West Wall. (Plan, g.) This colonnade occupied the ground afterwards covered by the Armoury of the Templars. (See p. 107.) Aiter Nisii's visit came the century of the Crusades, and then Saladin's restorations. Our next authority is Mujlr ad D!n in T496. He describes the colonnades he saw, and gives the dates of their building or restoration, as will be found in the following paragraphs: « The colonnades that go along the West Wall inside were all built during the reign of Al Malik an Nisir Muhammad il»n KaU'i On (a.d. 1310-1341). The colonnade going from the Magharibah Gate to the Gate of the Chain was built in 7*3 (13^4) » ^^^^ running from the Minaret at the Gate of the Chain to the Gate of the Inspector in 737 (1336) ; that from the (iate of the Inspector to the Bab al Ghawanimah in 707 ( 1307). The colonnades along the nortli wall were erected at the time of Digitized by Google 192 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, the foundations of the respective l)uildings they flank." (M. a. D., 376.) Since Mujir ad Din's days the colojinades must have l)cen frequently repaired ; but, as seen at llu- present day, they are, to all intents, identical with those here described in 1496. (See rian facing p. 172.) DIMENSIONS OF THE HARAM AREA. The dimensions of the Haram Area are given by many of the early authorities, some of whom apparently measured the great court for themselves, while some merely copied the inscription on a certain stone in the North Wall — ^by whom set up is not known — on which the dimensions are recorded. This stone was re- discovered by M. Clermont-Ganneau in 1874. The surface is, unfortunately, much corroded by the weather — this was apparently the case even as early as the year 1351 — and the inscription can, at the present day, be only partially deciphered. According to M. Ganncasiu's account, what may be clearly read is, in translation, the following : t/ie name of Allah the Compassionate^ the Merciful^ the kn^lli of {t/ie Harain Area of ) the Mas/id is se7en hundred and four-and-***ty e/Is^ and its brtadih Jour hundred and jlze-and-jijty ells, the ell bein- the ell of ♦♦♦♦ »» In M. (ianneau's opinion, the space for the word representing the tens, in the enumeration of the length, will only allow of its having been either eighfv or thirty : thus, in full, 784, or 734. Further, the specitication of the Dhira\ or ell, in M. Ganneau's opinion, cannot have been "al Malik," or the r yal ell ; because the space available on the stone will not allow of the five letters of this word (in the Arabic) having been inscribed here; also, he adds that such traces of letters as still remain do not correspond with the strokes of the Arabic letters in the word al Malik." The earliest mention of the exact dimensions of the Haram Area is found in the account (see p. 162) written by the Spanish Arab, Ibn 'Abd Rabbih, about the year 913. He gives no reference to the inscribed stone slab in the North Wall, but states the length of the Haram to be 784 ells, and the breadth 455 ells, the ell being *<the Im&m ell." Good MSS, of Ibn 'Abd Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 193 Rabbih s work are, however, wanting, nnd for tlic word "Imam" we have only the authority of the Cairo-printed edition to rely on, and this is far from iinimjieachahle. Ibn al Fakih and Mukaddasi, who are of ihe same century as the Spanish Arab, only give the dimensions of the Haram Area in round numbers, namely i,ooo ells by 700; and, according to Mukad- dasi, the ell was the royal Hashimite ell, which measured about 18 in( hes in length. At this valuation we get 1,500 feet by 1,050 feet for the length and breadth, the present measurements being, roughly— length 1,500 feet, by 900 feet for the average breadth. The Persian traveller Nlbir«i-Khusrau, who visited Jerusalem in 1047, is the first in so many words to mention the tablet M. Ganneau has rediscovered in the North Wall. NHsir's account is most circumstantial ; and, if the numbers in the Persian MS. of his Diary could be depended upon (and all the linbwn MSS» agree in giving the same numbers), his testimony would settle the point of what was the length originally inscribed on the tablet ; for, in Nasir's days, the surface of the stone would appear to have been still undamaged. Nasir's a( eount is as follows : "The greater length of the Mai.un Area extends from north to south ; i)ut if the space occupied by the Maksfirah (or Aksd Mosque) be dedueted, the shape of the court is (roughly) square, with the Kii)lah poiiu lyinj^ towards the south. Now, it was my desire to obtain the measurements of the Harnm Area, and I said to myself: First, I will come exactly to know the place in all its aspects, and see the whole thereof ; and afterv.'ards will I take the measurements. But after passing some time in the Noble Sanctuary, and examining it, I came on an inscription upon a stone of an arch in the north wall (of the Haram .\rea), not far from the Dome of Jacob (Kubbat \'a'kub) (Plan facing p. 150, X) — on whom be peace I In this inscription the length of the Haram Area was set down at 704 cubits (ArsA), and the breadth at 455 cubits of the royal measure. The royal ell {ffz-i-maiik) is the same as that which is known in Khurasin as the Ges-i-Sh&igdn (the king's ell), and is equivalent to lA (common) cubits (orM), or a ficaction the less.*** (N. Kh., 28, 29, 31.) • In this passage ^^-c (ell) anu anh (cuUi) arc agam used as synonymous ternM. S«ep. 128. 13 Digitized by Google 194 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, The next authority, but one of no great weight in this matter, is Idrisi, who states that the Haram Area measures 200 Ba' (or fathoms), by 180 Bi\ the Md' being "the space between the extremities of the two hands of a full-grown man when they are extended to the right and left" (See Lane's Dictionary^ s. v.) Taking the Bi' at 6 feet, this would only give us 1,200 feet for the length, and 1,080 feet for the breadth. The testimony of 'Ali of Herat is of greater weight. He writes, describing the Haram Area in 1173 : "I read on a stone the following inscription : * Tht Ungih {of the Haram Ana round) the Mosque is 700 Jdoya/ e//s, and its breadth w 455.* This stone is to be sLcii built into the north wall of (the Haram Area that surrounds) tiie Ak^a Mosque." (A. H., Oxf. MS., f. 37, verso.) From the close of the twelfth ccniury (a few years before Sala- din's reconquehi of Jerusalem), when 'Ali of Herat wrote, no other account has reached us of the (limLn>iuns of the Haram Area until tlic middle of the fourteenth cciuury, when (in 1355) the traveller Ibn Hatiitah describes Jerusalem. His Diary was written out, many years after his return home, from notes, and hence it is not surprising to find that he puts the length (north to south) for the breadth (east to west) of the Haram Area, ard v;ce versa. Whether he copied the figures from the tablet in the North Wall is not stated. /Vfter a general description of the Mosque at Jerusalem, Ibn Battitah continues: "They say there is no mosque anywhere larger than this. The length of the Haxam Area from east to west is 752 ells of the Dhiri' al Malikiyyah. Its breadth from the Kiblah (south) to the north is 435 ells.** (I. B., i. 121.) The author of the Mnthtr al Ghir&m is the first writer to mention that the tablet in the north wall, which he read, was, in his day, rendered somewhat illegible by the weathering of the stone. This was in 135 1, a few years prior to Ibn Batfltah's visit As will be noted, the words recording both the length and the breadth were, in 1.^51, clearly lc•^il)lc. and it was only the speci- fication of the ell that he could nut decipher. The following passage from the author of the Muthir has been quoted or copied Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, by many subsequent writers, notably by SuyClti in 1470, and by Mujir ad Din in 1496. The Arabic text (collated from several MSS. in the Biblioth^que Nationale at Paris) is printed in the J. R. A. S., vol. xix., new series, at p. 305. The following is a tianslation : *' It is stated by Ibn 'As&kir (died 1176} that the length of the Haiam Area is 755 eUs, and its breadth 465 ells, the ell being the royal ell (Dhirff al Maiik), And so also writes Abul Ma'ili al Musharraf in his book. Now, I myself, in old times» have seen in the northern wall of the Haram Area, above the gateway which adjoins the Duwatd&riyyah, and on the inner side of the wall, a slab on which was inscribed the length and the breadth of the Ilarani Area, and it differed from what these two authorities have stated. And what was inscribed on this slal) was : Jxugth 784 <f//f, Onuiit i 455 ells The inscription, further, gives the indication of the ell used , but I am not sure whether this is the ell mentioned above (which is the royal ell) or some other, for tlie inscription has l)ecoinc indistinct. The Haram Area was measured in our days with a rope, and along tlie eastern wall it measured 683 ells, and along the western wall it measured 650 ells, while in the breadth (that is, along the northern and the southern walls) it measured 438 ells. These measurements being exclusive of the width of the outer walls.*' It is to be noted that the author of the Muthir fails to state what particular ell was the one used in the measurements made in his days. Mujir ad Din, who quotes the above (M. a. D., 351), states in a subsequent page (Cairo Text, p. 377) that he, himself, in the year 1496, measured the Haram Area twice over to get the figures exact. The ell was the workman's ell, that commonly in use in his day, the length of which is equivalent to about 2\ feet Mujir ad Din's measurements are the following : " length : From the South Wall at the Mihrdb Daiid, to the back of the colonnade on the North Wall near the Gate of the Tribes, is 660 ells. This is not counting the width of the outer walls. Width : From tlie l\astern Wall, where this overlian^^s the tombs that are outside the Gate of Mercy, to the bark of the 13—2 Digitized by Google 196 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Western Colonnade below the Chambefs of the Madiasah Tan- kizi>yah, is 406 ells." At the valuation given above, 660 workman's ells would equal lA^S feet, and 406 ells» 913} feet The following list gives in chronological order a summazy of the above measurenienls. ^Vhen it is remembered that since Muslim days the South Wall of the Aksft Mosque (and therefore also of the Haiam Area) has always occupied the position it does at the present day : that the same may be said of the ^ Cradle of Jesus'* in the south-east comer; that Mukaddasi as early as 985 mentii>n$ the liirk.it Hani Israil, and therefore that the north-east anc«c c.mnoi have ihan^cxl its position since the ninth century; fnuily. that the Ciates in the West Wall, many of them dale !"r\>m the nrst ^vtuune> ot" the Hijrah- it nuist he concluded that the Knuulu'es of the Marani Area cannot have been nuich vhancvxl sitKV the liavs of the Khalif Ahd al Malik at the close I: V vcwuih tviuurv of oi^- era. The variation in the fii/ureN is ikHikivs* in ivut dvie to the error of the copyists ; in part also 10 |he\atW«> v'l vwevl, whteh ranged between the early Hashimite IV^VA^ ctt \M I J tvvt. the later rvnal ell of about 2 feet, and the «%yVuuns \m the tirti-enih century, which measured about ^ sK\t. Hh^ aI VAlh* in elK i.ooo by 700. t '^^^^ K^Sbih. '^in Imam ells," 784 by 4S5- ,.s. MmU\UUm» "'in nwal Hashimite ells,** 1,000 by 700, , va\ Ml tv» tt\l b\ ftvt \ . » I Khuvuui, Insvrii^tion on North WaU, «*in royal V;^ oi Uvuu. U»sv::piivH4 on North Wall, "in royal ^ ^ ^ ^ Ui u easutvnutU in W (fathom), aoo by 180, equiva ^ ^^,,rV^>^ V . a^viuou^l b> the author of the il/«Mxr, "in ,»^%iKs4 v-t \Uv M-k^iir M Ghiram. Inscription U bix %^v^»v nucni ; Eastern WaU, 68j eUs; Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 197 Western Wall, 650 ells; breadth, 438 ells* (Specification of ell not given.) 1355* Ibn Battitah, " in royal ells," 753 by 435. (Length and breadth interchanged in error.) 1496. Mujfr ad Din, from his own measurements, in workman's eUs (of about 2^ feet), 660 by 406 (equivalent to 1,485 feet and 9i3i feet). 1874. M. Clermont Ganneau's reading of the inscription in the North Wall, length, 784 or 734 ; breadth, 455. This in ells that, according to his reading, cannoi have been royal ells. THE TANKS AND POOLS. The rock under the greater part of the Haram Arta is, in various places, honeycombed with tanks used for storing water. They arc mentioned by many of the earlier writers. These reservoirs during the Middle Ages were fed by an aqueduct, bringing water trom "Solomon's Pools *' in the Wadi Urtas, near Hebron, which aqueduct was originally constructed by Pontius Pilate (Josephus, Ant., xviii. 3, ^2). Of the water-cisterns of the Noble Sanctuary, Nasir gives the followmg account : " The roofs of all the buildings in the Haram Area are covered with lead. Below the ground-level are numerous tanks and water- cisterns hewn out of the rock, for the Noble Sanctuary rests every- where on a foundation of live rock. There are so many of these cisterns that however much rain falls, no water flows away to wastes but all is caught in the tanks, whence the people come to draw it. They have constructed leaden conduits for carrying down the water, and the rock cisterns lie below these, with covered passages leading down thereto, through which the conduits pass to the tanks, whereby any loss of water is saved, and impurities are kept therefrom. *' At a distance of three leagues from the Holy City, I saw a great water-tank {.n .-.ultfinon's i'ools), whereinto j)()ur all the streams that flow clt)wn from the hills. From thence they have brought an aqueduct that comes out into the Noble Sanctuary. Of all parts of the Holy City this is where water is most plentiful. But in every house also, there is a cistern for collectmg the rain-water Digitized by Google 19^ PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. ' -for other than this water there is none— and each must store the min whieh falls upon his roof. The water used in the hot baths ami other plaees is solely from the storage of the rains. The tanks that are below the Haram Area never need to be repaired, for thev are cut in the live rock. Any place where there may ha\(> hccn originally a fissure or a leakage, has been so solidly built up that the tanks never fall out of order. It is said that these ci.sterns were constructed by Solomon — peace be upon him ! The roofing of them is like that of a baker's oven {fannUr). Each opening is covered with a stone, as at a weil-mouth, in order that nothing may fall therein. The water of the Holy City is sweeter than the water of any other places and purer ; and even when no tain falls for two or three days the conduits still ran with water, for thou^ the sky be clear, and there be no trace of douds, the dew causes drops to fell"* (N. Kh., 39.) The great dstem, which is in part excavated under the Aks& Mosque, goes by the name of Btr al Warakah, the Well of the licaf. To account for the name, a strange tradition is recounted (1470) by Suyuti, and ccpied by Mujir ad D!n, and many later writers, which in substance reproduces the account pven by \'ak\jt (1225) in his G<Oi^ra/'/n\\il Dictionary under the heading of .-// Kirlt. Vaki\t's version will be found translated in chapter vii.,t anil n^ay be compared with what is given here from Suyilti, "Now as to the tradition al)oui the leaves (of Paradise), there are many and various, accounts thereof. In the first place, from .•\bu Hakr ibn Abi Maryam, through 'Utayyah ibn Kais, comes the tradition that the Prophet said: 'Verily a man from among my people shall enter Paradise, walking upon his two feet (and come Imck again), and yet shall live.' Now during the Khalifate of -Omar, a caravan of men aniv'ed at the Holy City to make their prayers there. And one of them, a man of the Bani lamtm, named Shuraik ibn HabAshah, went off to get water (from the well). And his bucket falling down into the well, he descended and found a door there opening into gardens, and passing through the door into the gardens, he walked therein. Then he plucked a leaf from of the trees, and placing it behind his ear, he returned to the • Sec p. 87, noie. t Sec p. 292. i Digitized by Gopgle JERUSALEM, 199 well and mounted up again. And the man went to the Governor of the Holy City, and related to him of what he had seen in those gardens^ and how he had come to enter therein. Then the Governor sent men with him to the well, and they descended, many people accompanying them, but they found not the door, neither did they attain to the gardens. And the Governor wrote to the Khalif* 'Omar concerning it all, recalling how it was reported on tradition that one of the people of Islam should enter the Garden of Paradise^ and walk therein, on his two feet, and yet live. 'Omar vrrote in answer : * Ix)ok ye to the leaf, whether it be green and do not wither. If this be so, verily it is a leaf of Paradise, for naught of Paradise can wither or change ; and it is recorded in the aforesaid tradition of the Prophet that the leaf shall not suffer change.* "Another version of tiie tradition runs as follows : Shurnik ibn Habashali at 'l aniitni came into the Holy City to get waicr lor his companions, and his bucket sli|){>ed from his hand, so he des< ( n led (into the well) to fetch it up. And a person called to him 111 the well, saving, ' Come thou with me,' nnd, taking him by the hand, he hrougiu him into the Garden of I'aradise. Shuraik plucked two leaves, and the person then brought him back to where he had first found him. Then Shuraik mounted up out of the well, and when he rejoined his companions, he told them of all that had happened. The affair reached the ears of the Khalif 'Omar, and it was Ka'ab who remarked how it had been said (by the Prophet) a man of this ^oplc of Islam shall enter the Garden of Paradise^ and yet /iVr, adding : * Look ye to the leaves ; if they suffer change, then are they not the leaves of Paradise, and if they change not, then must they verily be of the leaves of Paradise.' And 'Utayyah asserts that the said leaves never after did suffer change. According to another tradition (coming from Al Walid), a certain Abu-n-Najm was Imam (leader of prayer) to the people of Salamiyyah, many of whom were of the desert tribes. And some of these people told him how they had themselves been well acquainted with Shuraik ibn Habashah when he was living at hal.uniwah. And they were wont to inquire of him concerning his entrance into the Ciarden of Paradise, and what he saw therein, and of how he had brought leaves ilierc- Digitized by Google aoo PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. from. And these people continued: *We inquired further whether there yet remained by him any one of the leaves which he had plucked there; and when he answered us affirmatively, we asked to see the leaf, and the man called for his Kurin, and took from between its pages a leaf that was entirely green, and gave it into our hands. When we had returned it to him, after laying it over his eyes, he placed it back again between the pages of his Kuran. And when he was at the point of ckath, he enjoined that we should put this leaf on his l)reast under ihc shruud, and his last words were to conjure us that this should exactly be done.' Al eontiiuk N ; 1 uuiuired ol Ahu ti-Xajm whether he had heard a deseripiuui liiven v)l ihe leaf? He replied : ' Yes ; and it was like the leaf of a peaeh tree [Punikin^, of the size of the jvihn v>f a haiuU a!\d pointed at the tip.' Suyuti adds : Now the lussuh of the W ell of the l eaf is in the Aksa Mostjue, on the left h,\nv; as WHI otUcr i\v the d^\>r faeitii: the Mihrab." (S., 270. The IVmvUn t*v umicf^n^und watertanks the Hnrnm, there were »St\v \VA ^sa.v>t tsv'ls water in the Holy City. Mukaddasi, \s<v lVt\* IS *at\f in Jerusalem in plenty. Thus it IX vi\?»\it» ihat /K*-;* is M,*/'dtr in Jervsalem but where m/k A**-* ^ J K^t* JTts trf.V /t> Prayer; and few are the h\Huvv* |S N,i\v tKH vsxuntx o»e or more. Within the city are ^^*>v .<'xm; i«r'\v ivuuct\« iho Birkat Bani Isf&II, the Birkat V ' »♦ t A ^»:5\*u l\id. In the vicinity of each of these i'N^ t\<0^x a'>\t l\» tv\ul iho ^aic^channcls from the streets. iy\ \'\^ M : V \'v t iSv »v arv* twenty underground cisterns of v t., ^ V, ; \i ; N V v;i',.;;tvrs of the city that have not »»■ X v.v > v v\';'tv '-tN v»i iluse last is only the lum- XX : ^ M t . ^ > V' iftv^r.^ i^-e >irvvls. At a < ertaiii \ alley, » i V XV - V I'ltv. thev ha\e gathered together »*S- s\ .\' V > SI '^'^KV i^vv^ iw ls. into which the torrents of t \ vx, lU 'v. 'd^NC two reservoirs there are yN. i-s 'x S>. ,V .^-5 '"'v" ^^''^^^ which are oj^ened during V : the i.«iks ululcr the Haram Area, and V v« jHH^ls. mentioned by Mukaddasi I Digitized by Google JERUSALEM 301 as within the city precincts, is copied by succeeding writers, who make no attempt at any identifu ation of the two last mentioned. The first, the Pool of the Children of Israel, is the well-known tank called by the same name at the present day, which lies outside tile norih-easl corner of the Harani Area. (See plans facing pp. 150, 172.) I hc traditional origin of its name is thus recorded by 'Ali of Herat : The Birkat Bani Israil is to the north of the Haram Area. They say that Riikht Na.sar (Nebuchadnezzar) filled it with the heads of the Children of Israel that he slew." (A. H., Oxf. MS., f. 39 V.) The Birkat Sulaim&n and the Birkat lyad do not exist under these names at the present day. The Birkat Sulaimdn is, doubt- less, the mediaeval Pool of Bethesda, the site of which has recently been discovered (see P. £. F. " Quarterly Statement/' p. 1^5) near the Church of St. Anne.* Tradition ascribed the digging of both this pool and the Birkat Bani Israil to King Solomon. (See P. P. T. Bordeaux Pilgrim, p. 20, and Ctitz dc J/icrmalem^ p. 25 ) The Birkat ly&d was called after *Iyad ibn Ghanm, a celebrated Companion of the Prophet, who was with the Khahf 'Omar at the capitulation of Jerusalem, and, according to Mujir ad Dtn (M. a. D., 231), Innlt a l)atli in the Holy City. He died a. h. 20 (641). The pool anciently called by his name is probably ihe present Birkat Hamniain al Buirak, the Pool of the Patriarch's I^ath, not far from the Jaffa ('.ate, very generally identified witii the Pool .Vmygdalon of Josephus and with the Biljlical Pool of Hezekiaii. SuyClti, in 1470, whose account is copied by Mujir ad IMn (M. a. D., 409* writes as follows: *'In regard to the pools that are in the Holy City, on the report of Damrah Irom Ibn Abi Sudah, it is related that a certain King of the Kings of the Children of Israel, named Hazkil (He/ekiah), constructed six pools for the Holy City, namely, three within the city, which are the Birkat Bani Israil, the Birkat Sulaimin, and the Birkat lyad, and three without the city, which are the Birkat Mdmilu and the two Birkats of Al Marjt*. And these he made to store the water for the use of the people of the Holy City.*^ (S., 274.) * See the Plan of Jerusalem facing p. 83. Digitized by Googlc 303 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, With regard to the pools outside the city here alluded to, the Pool of Mamilla lies a short distance west of the Jaffa Gate of Jerusalem, while the Pools of Al Marj!' are those known as Solomon's Pools, some mUes from Hebron, referred to above in the descriptions of Mukaddasi and others. (See p. 197.) Mujir ad Dtn, writing in 1496, adds that in his days the two . Birkats of lyM and Sulaimfin could no longer be identified, the names being unknown to the inhabitants of Jerusalem. (M. a. D., 409.) THE CHURCH OF RESURRECTION AND OTHER CHRISTIAN SHRINKS. T//f Church of tht' Holy Sepulchre. — In their descriptions ot Jerusalem, Muslim writers very naturally give but scant space to the mention of Christian edifices. The great Church of the Resurrection, however, founded by Constantine about the year 335, ruined by the Persian Chosroes in 614, and restored by Modestus in 629, had been left untouched when, in 637, 'Omar took possession of Jerusalem; and, as has been noted on a previous page^ was, in Mukaddasi's days, '* so enchanttngly fair, and so renowned for its splendour," as almost to rival in beauty the Dome of the Rock and the Great Mosque at Damascus. (See p. 117.) The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is mentioned as early as the year 943 a.d. by the historian Mas'iidL The Muslims, from ^ the earliest times, have called this church Kantsah al Kumdmak — " the Church of the Sweepings," or " of the Dunghill " — Kumamah ])cinL; a (l(->iL;nc(l (orruption of Kayamah, the name given to the church 1)\ the I'astern Christians, this being the Arabic eciuivalent of Anasiasis — "the Resurrection'* The im- posture, which is still called the Miracle of the Holy Fire, is first noticed by the Christian piluTim, Bernard the Wise, in 867. Mas'udi s testimony, thcreiure. suine eighty years later, that the miracle took place in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre of the Christians, a well-known building, perfectly distinct from the Dome of the Rock (which last Mr. Fergusson would have us believe was, at that period, known as the Holy S€puUhre\ serves Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. to overturn from its foundations the theory that Constantine*s basilica is the Muslim Dome of the Rock. Mas'ikdi was sceptical as to the miraculous origin of the fire. His account is as follows: On the fifth day of the (Syrian) month llshrin i (October), is the festival of the Kantsah al Kum&mah (the Church of the Sepulchre) at Jerusalem, 'i'he Christians assemble for this festival from out all lands. For on it the fire from heaven doth descend anion- them, and they kindle therefrom the candles. The Mushms also are wont to assemble in i^reat crowds to sec the sight of the festival. It is the custom at this time to plm k oiive- leaves. The Christians hold many legends there anent ; but the fire is produced hy a clever artilice, which is kept a great secret." (Mas., iri. 405.) Another passage from the same author is curious as showing what were the churches in the hands of the Christians in Jerusalem in a.d. 943. After relating the histor)' of the reign of Solomon, Mas'Adi concludes his chapter with the following paragraph: "It was Solomon who first built the Holy House^ which same is now the Aks& Mosque — may Allah bless its precincts ! When ^ he had completed the building thereof, he set about building a house for his own use. This last is the place that, in our own day, is called the Kantsah al Kumimah (the Church of the Resurrection). It is the laigest church in Jerusalem belonging to the Christians. They have also in the Holy City other great I) honoured churches besides this one— as, for example, the Kantsah Sihyfln (the Church of Sion), of which David has made mention (in the Psalms) ; and the church known as Al Jismaniyyah. This last, they say, encloses the tomb nf David." (Mas , i. 1 11.) Al Jismaniyyah is the Arabic corruption of the name (ieth .semane. The original Hebrew name has the meaning of Canii/i of the Clivt'-press ; \s\\\\\: Ji<;maniy\ah^ in Arabic, signifies "The place of the Incarnation^^ and is in allusion, therefore, to a different circumstance in the Gospel history. Mukaddasi, wriimg in 985, gives no description of the Church of the Sepulchre, only alhtding to it inddentaiiy. (See pp. 98, 117.) Digitized by Google 2Q4 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. There is some doubt as to the exact year in which the mad Khalif of Egypt, Hakim, ordered the celel)rated destruction of the Church of the Sepulchre. Western authorities generally place this event in the year loio A.1X The chronicle of Ibn al Athir notes it as an occurrence of the year of the Hijiah 398 (looS). He writes: *'In this year Al Hikim-bi-amr-I11ah, the Lord of Egypt, ordered the demolition of the Church of the Kumflmah, which is the church in the Holy City (of Jerusalem) called generally by the (Christians) Al KaySmah (the Anastasis). In this church, according to the belief of the Christians, is the spot where the Messiah was buried ; and on this account it is visited by them, coming in pilgrimage from all parts of the earth. Al Hdkim also commanded the other churches throughout his dominions to be likewise pulled down, and so it was done." (Ibn al -Vliiir, ix. 147.) Makrizi, however, an authority of no less weight than the above, states that it was in the year 400 a.h. (ioio) that Al Hakim "wrote ordering the destruction ot the Church of the Kumamah," (ihc text is gi\cn in De Sacy's Chresfoinathic Arahe, vol. i., p. 60 of the Ar;il)i( ), and this corresponds with the date generally given by Western writers. Mujir ad Din, on the contrary, repeats Ibn al Athir s date. He wTites : "During the year 398 (1008), the Khalif Hakim ordered the Kumdmah to be destroyed The . chur( h. however, was allowed to be rebuilt during the reign of his son, Al Mustansir, by the King of RQm." (M. a. D., 269.) The King of Rikm here mentioned is, according to one account, the Emperor Constantine Monomachus, who, about the year 1048, had the church rebuilt under the superintendence of the Patriarch Nicephorus. Other accounts state that the restoration took place under the Emperor Michael IV., the Paphlagonian, who obtained the privilege of Al Mustansir on the condition of setting free five thousand Muslim captives. In the year 1047, Jerusalem was visited by the Persian pilgrim N&sir-i-Khusrau, who has left the following description of the great church as it stood before the alterations effected by the Crusaders. Xasir writes : " In the Holy City (of Jerusalem), the Christians possess a Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 305 chun h which they call Bai'at-al-Kunianiah (which is the Church of the Resurrection), and they hold it in high veneration. pAery year great multitudes of people from RUm (the Greek Empire) come hither to perforin their visitation ; and the Emperor of Byzantium himself even comes here, but privily, so that no one shoulci recognise him. In the days when (the Fatimite Khalif) Al Hakim-bi-amr-IUah was ruler of Egypt, the Greek Csesar had come after this manner to Jerusalem. Al HSkim, having news of it, sent for one of his cup-bearers» and said to him, * There is a man of so and such a countenance and condition whom thou wilt find seated in the Mosque (J&mi') of the Holy City ; go thou, therefore, and approach him, and say that H&kim hath sent thee to him, lest he should think that I, HAkim, knew not of his coming ; but let him be of good cheer, for 1 have no evil intention against him.' Hftkim at one time ordered the Church (of the Resurrection) to he given over to plunder, which was so done, and it was laid in ruins. Some time it remained thus ; hut atu r- wards the Caesar of Hyzantium sent ambassadors with presents nnd promises of service, and concluded a treaty in which he stipulated for permission to defray the expenses of rebuilding the church, and this was ultimately accomplished. " At the present day the church is a niosi spacious building, and is capable of containmg eight thousand ])ersons. The edifice is built, with the utmost skill, of coloured inarhlcs, with ornamenta- tion and sculptures. Inside, the church is everywhere adorned with fiyzantine brocade, worked in gold with pictures. .\nd they have portrayed Jesus— peace be upon Him !— who at times is shown riding upon an ass. There are also pictures representing others of the Prophets, as, for instance, Abraham, and Ishmael, and Isaac, and Jacob with his sons— peace be upon them all I These pictures they have overlaid with a varnish of the oil of Sandaracha (SandarAs^ or red juniper) ; and for the face of each portrait they have made a plate of thin glass, which is set thereon, and is perfectly transparent. This dispenses with the need of a curtain, and prevents any dust or dirt from settling on the painting, for the glass is cleaned daily by the servants (of the church). Besides this (Church of the Resurrection) Digitized by Google 706 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, there are mnny others (in Jerusnlem), all very skilfully built; but to describe il cni all would lead into too great Icngtli. In tlic Church (of the Resurrection) there is a picture divided into two parts, representing Heaven ant' Hell. One part shows the people of paradise in Paradise, while the other shows the people of hell in Hell, with all that therein is ; and assuredly there is nowhere else in the world a picture such as this. There arc seated in this church great numbers of priests and monks, who read the Evangel and say prayers, for both by day and by night they are occupied after this manner." (N. Kh., 59-61.) In 1099 the Crusaders gained possession of Jerusalem, and deeming the old Church of the Resurrection to tie too insignifi* cant a building for the great purpose of the Shrine of Christ's Tomb^ they enlarged the edifice by adding a nave and aisles to the then existing rotunda. These additions were apparent!) completed in the first half of the twelfth century. In 1154 Idrisi, quoting, doubtless, from the accounts brought home to Sicily by Christian pilgrims, wrote the following description of the church as it then existed : "When you enter (Jerusalem) by the Jaffa date, called Bab al Mihrab, wliich, as aforebaid, is the we^iern gate, you go eastw'ards through a street that leads to the great church known as the Ranisah al Kayamah (the Church of the Resurrection), which the Mushnis call Kumfimah (the Dunghill). This is a cliurch to which j)ilgriinagc is made from all parts of the Greek Empire, both from the eastern lands and the we>tcrn. Vou enter (the church) by a gate at the west end, and the interior thereof occupies the centre space under a dome, which covers the whole of the church. This is one of the wonders of the world. The church itself lies lower than this gate, and you cannot descend thereto from this side. Another gate o[)ens on the north side, and through this you may descend to the lower part of the church by thirty steps. This gate is called Bdb Santa Maria. " When you have descended irto the interior of the church you come on the most venerated Holy Sepulchre. It has two gates, and above it is a vaulted dome of very solid construction, beauti- fully built, and splendidly ornamented. Of these two gates, one Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 207 is towards the norili, facing the Gate Santa Maria, and the other is toward the south, facing; which is the Bdl) as SaU'ibiyyah {the (iate of the Crucifixion). AI)Qve this last gate is the hell-tower of the church. Over against this, on the east, is a great and venerable church, where the Franks of Kdm (which is the Greek Empire) have their worship and services. To the east (again) of this blessed church, but bearing somewhat to the south, is the prison in which the Lord Messiah was incarcerated; also the place of the Crucifixion. Now, as to the great dome (over the Church of the Resurrection), it is of a vast size, and open to the sky. Inside the dome, and all round it, are painted pictures of the Prophets, and of the Lord Messiah, and of the Lady Maryam, his Mother, and of John the Baptist Over the Holy Sepulchre lamps are suspended, and above the Place (of the Grave) in particular ' are three Ixunps of gold." (Id., 6.) The mention of the bell-tower, called in the Arabic KanMnAr (Gampanarium), would go to prove the tower of the Church of the Resurrection to be older than M. de Vo^iie supposes, judging ii on architectural i^rouinl , only, in his E:Jihs dc la Icrty S<}inte (p. 207). The great south jjortal of the church, the only one at present in use, and immediately to the north of which iilandb the hell tower, is the one doubtless here called the Gate of the Crucilixion. It i-, noteworthy that in Idrisfs days the church had three entrances, the ah;nc-mentioned .L;ate to the south ; one opposite, opening north (the Gate of Santa Maria) ; and, lastly, the \N » t (fate, from which you could not descend into the body of the edifice. The two latter gates no longer exist. The "Church of the Greeks * must be the present Catholicon, lying immediately east of the Rotunda of the Sepulchre, and to the present day belonging to the Greek community. It forms the western half of the Church of the Crusaders. Some years later than Idrisf, 'AH of Herat, in 11 73, wrote a description of the Holy Places of Palestine, from the purely Muslim point of view. Of the Church of the Resurrection he gives the following short notice, written a few years before Saladin's recovery of the Holy City : " The Church of the Kumimah is one of the most wonderful Digitized by Google 908 PALESilSE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, buildings of the world. In it is the tomb which the Christians call Al Kay&mah (Anastasts), and this because they believe that the Resurrection of the Messiah took place here. But the truth is that the place is called Al Kuni&mah (the Dunghill) because it was of old a dung-heap, and lay outside the city, being the place where they cut off the hands of malefactors and crucified thieves, a.s, too, is mentioned in llie Kvangcl hut AILdi alone knows the truth. The Christians liavc in this place the rock, which ihey say was split, and from beneath which Adam rose up — because it stood under the place of the Crucilixion, as thev relate.* They have also here the Oarden of Joseph, suriiamed As Siddik (the Iruthful), which is much visited by pilgrims. In this church takes place the descent of the (Holy) Fire. Now, verily, 1 myself did sojourn at Jerusalem for .some season during the days of the Franks, in order to understand their ways and the manner of the sciences." (A. H., Oxf. MS., f. 41, recto and verso.) In 1x87 Saladin expelled the Crusaders from the Holy City, and, according to some accounts, pillaged and did considerable damage to the Church of the Resurrection. In 1192 the knights of the Third Crusade were allowed by Saladin to visit the Holy Sepulchre, and the Bishop of Salisbury obtained permission for two Latin monks to remain there and conduct the services of the church. The account which Y&kfit, writing in 1225, gives of the church proves that in his day the building had recovered from the reported pillage at the date of Saladin*s conquest. YSkOt, as will be seen, repeats the account given by 'Ali of Herat ; he, however, adds some remarks of his own, and gives a curious notice of the Miracle of the Holy Fire : "The Kumamah is the great chureli of the Christians at Jeru.salem. It is beyond description for beauty, and for its great riches and wonderful architecture. It stands in the middle of the city, and a wall surrounds it. There is here the tomb which the Christians call Al Rayamah (the Anastasis), i)ecause of their belief that the Resurrection of the Messiah took place here. In • This is the well-known mcdiitval legend. Sec Palestine Pilgrims' Text, /4Mo/ Daniel^ p. 14. The rent in the rork still shnwn. According to tradi- lioo, Adam was buried below the rock on which ihc Crucifixion afleiwards took place. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 209 point of fact, however, the name is Kumamah, not ivayamah, for the place was the Dunghill of the inhabitants of the city, and Stood anciently without the town, being the place where they cut off malefactors' hands, and where they crucified thieves. But after the Messiah had been crucified on this spot, it came to he venerated as you now see. This is all related in the Bvangel. There is here a rock which they say was split and Adam rose from it, for the Crucifixion took place on the summit of the same. The Christians have also in this spot the Garden of Joseph, the Truthful — peace be upon him ! — ^and visitation is made thereto. In one part (of the church) is a lamp, on which they say fire descends from heaven on a certain day and kindles the wick. Now, on this matter a certain person who was in the public service — ^and he was a man of the companions of the Sultan, to whom it was not possible for the Christians to refuse admittance, and he had stayed in the church to see how the affair was accom- plished— related to me the following as ot iiis experience : On one occasion, said he, the descent of the fire was delayed by the priest, in whose charge it was 10 sec to ii, and he turnetl 10 me and said : ' Verily thy attending on us is a matter against the precept of our law,' I inquired of him wherefore. Said he: ' Because we appear before our companions as doing a thing that should be kept hid from one like thee. It were therefore to be desired that thou shouldst leave us and go out.' Said I to him : * Of necessity will I now see what thou art about to do ; for behold, 1 have found in a book of magic what is written therein, how ye bring a candle near, and then on a sudden ham; it up in this place, which the people neither seeing nor knowing, it is considered by them a mixaculous act, and one deserving of all belief.' Heie ends the account." (Yak., iv, 173-174.) OTHER CHRISTIAN SHRINES. It will be convenient at this place to insert such short notices as are found in the early Muslim writers of the other Christian shrines which they describe in Jerusalem. The (harden of Gethsemane, called Al Jismtoiyyah in Arabic (see above, p. 203), is mentioned by Mas*Qdi as early as the year 943. 14 Digitized by Google 210 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Writing in 1154, Idrisi has the following accotint of the same spot : " Leaving the (Aksa) Mosque (and crossing the Haram Area) you come, on the eastern side, to the Bab ar Rahmah (the date of Mercy, the (iokleii ( tate), which is now clohed, as we have said before ; but near to tliis gate is anothL-r. which is open. It is railed liab al Asbat (the date of the Tribes), and through it there is much coming and going. W hen you have passed out by the Gate of the Tribes, you reach liie hmits of the archery-ground, and find there a large and very beautiful church, dedicated to the l^dy Mary, and the place is known as Al Jismaniyyah. At this place also is her tomb^ on the skirt of the Mount of Olives (Jabal az ZaitOn) Between it and the Gate of the Tribes is the space of about a mile. ' (Id , S.) The next mention that occurs of the Tomb of the Virgin is that given by 'Ali of Herat* His work was written in 1173, while the Crusaders still had possession of Jerusalem ; but the paiagmph on the Tomb of the Virgin would appear to have been altered at a subsequent date, for it describes the building as it was transformed after Saladin's reconquest of the Holy City in 1187. 'All of Herat writes : *'The Tomb of Maryam is in the VVSdi Jahannum. You descend (to the tomb) by six-and*thirty steps. There are here columns of granite and marble. The dome is supported by sixteen columns, eight being red, and eight green. The building has four gates, and at each gate are six columns of marble or granite. It was originail) a < hurch, but is now a Mashhad, or oratory, dedicated to Abraham the Friend -peace l)e on him! 'i'here are here wonderful remains of columns and Other archi- tectural fragments." (A. H., Oxf. MS., f. 40.) Ibn Batfttah, who visited Jerusalem in 1355, s])eaks in the following terms u\' the 1 omb of the Virgin, and of some other Christian shrines in Jerusalem : " At the bottom of the said Valley of Jahannum is a church which the Christians venerate, for here, they say, is the Tonil) of Maryam — peace be on her I In Jeru- salem also is another church (namely, that of the Resurrection), to which the Christians make pilgrimage, and about which they tell many Hes^ asserting that the Tomb of Jesus — ^peace be on Him !^ is therein. Now, on every pilgrim who makes his visitation to this I Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 211 church a certain tril)uie is levied for the benefii of the Muslims, and the Christians have to bear humiliations, which they iituleri/o with much rcvoltini; of the heart. In Jenisalem also is ilic {)lace of the Cradle of jesus — peace be on Hiui ! — where Christians come to seek a blessing." (I. B., i. 124 ) The Church of Pater Noster and Bethany are spoken of by Idrisi in 1154. He writes: "On the road ascending the Mount of Olives is a mai^nificent churc h, l>eautifully and solidly built, which is called the Church of Pater Noster; and on the summit of the mount is another church, beautiful and grand likewise, in which men and women incarcerate themselves, seeking thereby to obtain favour with Albh^-be He exalted ! In this aforementioned mount, on the eastern part, and bearing rather to the south, is the Tomb of Al 'Azar (Lazarus), whom the Lord Messiah raised again to life. Two miles distant from the Mount of Olives stands the village from which they brought the she«ss, on which the Lord Messiah rode on His entry into Jerusalem, but the place is now in ruins, and no one lives there." (Id., 8.) The Church of the Ascension (on the Mount of Olives) is referred to by 'Ali of Herat in 1173 as " the Church of Salik, which is the one from which the Messiah is said to have ascended into heaven." (A.H., Oxf MS., f. 40.) Ibn Batiitah doubtless alludes to the sanie building in the Diary of his visit to Jerusalem in 1355, where he writes : ** Beside the Wadi, called Wadi Jahannum, and to the east of the city on a hill that rises to a certain height (known as the Mount of Olives), there is a building whence they say Jesus — peace be on Him 1 ascended into heaven." (I. B., i. 124.) 'Ali of Herat, in 1173, mentions another church, which it is difficult at the present day to identify. He writes : "At Jerusalem is the Church of the Jacobites,* in which is the well where they say the Messiah washed, and where the Samaritan woman received belief at His hands. The place is much visited, and is held in great veneration. At Jerusalem also is the Tower {Buty^ of David and his Mihr&b, as is mentioned in the Kurfin (xxxviii. 20)." * In th« Oxford MS., folio 39, v., the name is written • Kuitaah «/ Yui^/idkty- yah^ a inbtake (by the alteration of (he diacritical points) for Al Yt»^h6i>iyyah, which is the reading found in M. Shefer's MS. 14— a Digitized by Google 2(2 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Of tfie Church of Sion and the adjacent shrines, Idrisi reports as follows : "Now, as to what lie<; adjacent to the Holv City on the southern quarter, when yuu go out by the Bab Sihyun (the Ciate of Sion), you pass a distance of a stone's throw, and come to the Church of Sion, which is a beautiful church, and fortified. In it is the guest-chamber wherein the Lord Messiah ate with the disciples, and the table is there remaining even unto the present day. The people assemble here (for the Festival of Maundy-) Thursday. And from the Gate of Sion you descend into a ravine called WSdt Jahannum (the Valley of Gehenna). On the edge of this ravine is a church called after the name of Peter, and down in the ravitie is the 'Ain Sulw&n (Spring of SiloamX which is the spring where the Ix>rd Messiah cured the infirmity of the blind roan, who before that had no eyes. Going south from this said spring is the field (Hakl^ Aceldama ?) wherein strangers are buried, and it is a piece of ground which the Lord bought for this pur- pose ; and near by to it are many habitations cut out in the rock wherein nien incarcerate themselves for the purposes of devotion." (Id., 9.) The table in the Cluireh of Sion is mentioned also by 'Alt of Herat in 1173, who notices the tradition that it came down from heaven to Christ and His disciples. (A. H., Oxf. MS., f. 40.) Yak At (1225) also alludes incidentally to the Church of Sion. (Yak., iii. 438.) THE ciTV i;ati:s. The gates in the walls of Jerusalem, though mentioned singly ahd incidentally by many geographers, nrc only fully enumerated by two Arab authors — namely, Mukaddasi in 985, and Mujir ad nin in 1496, Between these two dates the Holy City was in turn besieged by the Crusaders and by Saladin, and the walls were several times dismantled and rebuilt. It is not, therefore, astonishing to find that Mukaddasi's gates do not all bear the same names as those found in MujIr ad Din, which last are those still open and used at the present day. Mukaddasi writes as follows : Digitized by Google JERUSALEM. 213 "Jerasalem is smaller than Makkah, and laiiger than Al Madtnah. Over the city is a castle, one side of which is against the hillside, while the other is defended by a ditch. Jerusalem has eight iron gates : " (i) Bib Sihydn (Gate of Sion). " (2) Bab at Tih (Gate of the Desert of the Wanderings). '* (3) Rah al Balat (Cate of the Palace, or Court). "(4) iiab Jubb Armiya (Gate of Jeremiah s Pit). " (5) Bab Silwan (Gate of Silaim). ♦'(6) Bab Ariha (Gate of Jericho). " (7) Bdb al Aniud (Gate of the Columns). " (8) Bab Mihrab DaCd ((late of David s Oratory)." (Muk., 167.) It is evident, from such of the gates as still hear the same names as they did in 985, that Mukaddasi follows no order, but that the names as they at present stand in the MSS. are set down almost entirely at haphazard. To begin, however, with those about which there can be little dispute. The Gate of David's Mihrib (8) is that generally known as the Jaffa or Hebron Gate, called at the present day Bib al KhalU. Immediately above it is the castle mentioned by Mukaddasi, which still exists, and in which is the Mihrib which gave this gate its name. David's Mihr&b is also shown in the Haram Area. (See p. t68.) The oratory in the castle, however, is the one referred to by Istakhri and Ibn Haukal in the following description : " In the city is the Mihiib of the prophet David, a tall edifice built of stone, which, by measurement and calculation, I should say reached a height of 50 ells, and was 30 ells in the breadth. On its summit is a building like a tell, which is the Mihrab men- tioned by Allili— iiui) He be exalted! — fin the words ui ihe Kuran : ' Halii the story of the two pleaders reached ihee, when they mounted the walls of David's Mihrab?') When you come up to the Holy City from Ar Rambh this is the first building that catches the eye, and you see it above the other houses of the town, fn the Noble Sanctuary, too, are many other venerated Mihrahs dedicated to other of the celebrated prophets." (Is., 56; I. H., III.) * See the plan of Jerosatero facing p. 83. Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. The Sion Gate (i) is the next south of the Hebron Gate, and is now known as Bib an Nabi D&ftd (the Gate of the Prophet David). The Gate of Jericho (6) is that which the Christians, for the last five centuries, have called St Stephen's Gate. The Gate of Jeremiah's Pit {4) can, from the position of the grotto (or pit), only be the small gate to the north, called at the present day Bab as Sahirah, and in old days known as Herod's Gate. The (late of the Columns (7) i> that more gciurally known as the Damascus Gate, though it still bears the older ikih c In the times of the Crusaders this was what was known as Si. Suphen's Gate, a name in later times transferred to the Jericho (iate. The remaining of Mukaddasi's gates can only l>e approximately identified. The (.iate of the Desert of the Wanderings (2) is proliably the "Secret Gate" mentioned by Mujir ad Dm as opeinng near the Armenian Convent between tlic Hebron and Sion Gates. 1 he Siloam Gate (5) can hardly, from its name, be other than the southern gate, called the Bab al Magharibah (Gale of the Mogrebins, or Western Africans), which the Franks have named the Dung Gate. Bab al Bal^t (the Gate of the Palace, or Court) (3) is, most probably, identical with Mujir ad Din's Bab ar Kabbah (the Gate of the Public Square), opening west in the city wall, and north of the Hebron Gate. In the CiUz de Jherusaltm^ written about the year 1225, the gate which opened here is named the St. Lazarus Postern. Since Mujtr ad Din's days it has been built up. Idrisi, writing in 11*54, notes the following city gates : " Bdb al MihrSb (Jaffa Gate) is on the western side ; and this is the gate over which is the Cupola of David (Kubbat Didd) — peace be upon him ! B&b ar Rahmah (the Golden Gate) is on the eastern side of the city. It is closed, and is only opened at the Feast of Olive-bninches (Palm Sunday). B&b SihyAn (the Sion Gate) is on the south of the city. Bib 'Am(id al Ghur&b (the Gate of the Crow's Pillar — the Damascus Gate) lies to the north of the city." (Id., 5.) The Damascus Gate was called "of the Pillar" on account of ceruim ancient columns that had been buik into it ; but what the '* Crow " may refer to is not known. Idrisi is the only author to JERUSALEM. 215 mention this name. It will be noted that the Golden Gate, Bab ar Rahmah (Gate of Mercy), is here mentioned as a city gate. During the time of the Crusaders there was apparently a right-of- way across the Haram Area from the Porta Spectosa (Bib D&(kd, or B&b as Silsilah) in the west wall of the Noble Sanctuary to the Golden Gate on the east. In .Muslim times this was never allowed. Writing in 1496, Mujir ad Din enumerates the following city gates, ten in luiiuhcr : •*On the south side are two gates: (i) Bab Harah al Magharibah," the Gate of the Mogribins' Quarter— the Frankish Dung Gate. "(2) Bab Sihyun (ot Siuii), now known as tlie BSb Harah al Yahiid — that is, of tlio j' ws' Quarter." l i e Jews' Quarter in Crusading times was in the north-east part of the city. From Saladin's lime down to the present day it has been in the quarter mentioned by Mujir ad Din— to the south. " On the west side are three gates : (3) The small Secret Gate near the Armenian Convent." This is probably identical with Mukaddasi's (}ate of the Desert of the ^^'anderings. It is at present walled up. *'(4) B4b al Mihrab, now called Bib al Khaltl," the Gate of the Friend ; Abraham — the Hebron or Jaffa Gate. '*(5} Bab ar Rahbah/' the Gate of the Public Square; probably that mentioned by Mukaddasi as the Bib al BaJdt, and identical with the St Lazarus Postern. It is now closed. **0n the north side are four gates : (6) Bab Dair as Sarb," the Gate of the Servian Convent. The exact position of this is un- known, but it must have stood between the Rahbah Gate and the Damascus Gate. Mujir ad Din, speaking of the street called Khatt ad Dargah, writes: "It has in it Saladin's Bimaristan (or hospiiai}, and the Church of the Kuniamah (of the Resurrection). On its west side is the Quarter of the Christians, which extends from south to north, from the Bab al Khalil to the Bab as Sarb, and includes the Harah ar Rahbah, the Quarter of the Square." "(7) Bab al 'Amf^d," Gale of the Columns, the Damascus Gate, anciently ilic St. Str])hen's Gate. "(8) Bab ad Da'iyah (Gate of the Conduit?), by which you enter the Quarter of the Bani Zaid." This gate is no longer open, nor is its exact position Digitized by Google 2l6 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, known, but it must have stood somewhat to the west of the so- called Herod's Gate. B&b as SahiraV the Gate of the Plain— Herod's Gate.* " On the east one gate : ( i o) Mb al Asbftt," Gate, of the THbes — ^the present St. Stephen's or Jericho Gate. Mujtr ad Dfn adds: ''Besides these ten gates^ there was anciently a gate near the ZIwi) ah (or Shrine), caUed after Ibn ash Shaikh 'Abd 'Allnh, over against the citadel (Kala'ah). And again a gate in the ([uuricr called Harah at Turiyyah, which led to the Maidan of the Slaves (Maidan al Abid), outside the Bab al Asbat. 1 his gate is now closed." (M. a. 1)., 406.) Mujir ad Din tells us '* that the Harah at Tftriyyah (the quarter of the inhabitants of 'ITir, or Sinai) went from the (late of the Tribes (Bab al Ashat) u]) to the north wall of the city;" that is, it occupied all the north-east quarter of the city. Hut there is no such gate as that mentioned, open at the present day in the walls here. The table on the next page shows the names of the City Gates at various epochs, beginning at the Jaffa Gate and going north- ward, and so round the walls back to the point of departure : • No native authority (as far as I am aware) exists for spellinp the name of tills gale, BAb ez Zaltary, "The Floweiy Gale," as Robinson {Researches^ and edit., i. 262), and many a/ier him, have done. Neither is the name ever written B&b et Zakriyi^ ** Gate of Splendour/' os has been set down in »oine of the Memoirs of the Palestine Exploration Fund. However the present inhaHtanls of Jerusalem may spell and pronounce the name of this small f^ntt', whicli the Franks call '* Herod's Gate," in old times it always was wriiicn As Sahirah, that is, "of the Plain," sdlud, " uf the Assembly of ihe Judgiueni Day," which stretches beyond the city wall north-east from this Gate. See p. 2t8. Digitized by Google JERUSALEM, 217 5; Y. > J. 5 Si < •r. £ » - XL fS -s I >^ 1— Q J3 ^ ^ J ^ J3 ssaaaa I O 'J ^ 2 W W e a. CO I I -5- W 23 Q. a c 32 u c c H ^•2 c c4 < V U5 « C = J! sex « 3 a" 75 Q < ti < St. <3 U rt O c o 4 c < 9 i 5 c c 03 if 1 s f« > C J3 g • :5 C .2 ^ vox So J" 5.0 a. V2 •75 3 V Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, THE REDRON VALLEY, OR THE WAd! JAHANNUM, AND THE PLAIN OF THE sAhIRAH. The valley called by the Jews (jC-Ben-Hinnon — that is, of (iehenna — was the deep gorfxe to the west and south-west of Jerusalem ; the Muslims, however, in adopting the Jewish name, chose the gorge bounding the Holy City on the east as the valley which they called Wadi Jahannum. This, in earlier days, had been known as the \'alley of the Kedron, or ol jehoshaphat. In the Prophet Joel (iii. 2) the verse on urs : " I will also gather all nations, and will bring them down mto the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and will plead with them there for My people, and for My heritage Israel" This liad led the Jews to make the Valley of Jehoshaphat the scene of the Last Judgment, and the Muslims, in adopting the Hebrew tradition, and transferring it to their Wadi Jahannum, had considerably amplified the story. According to these last, the Bridge As Sinit. dividing hcnvcn nnd hell, is to stretch across this valley from the hill of the Haram Area to the MDunt of Olives, while the Plain (As S&hirah), on the northern part of the mount, is to be the gathering-place of all mankind on the Day. The name of As Sahirah appears in later times to have been extended also to the plain on the city side, x>r west of the Kedron Valley, and th^irefore immediately to the north of Jerusalem, and from it one of the city gates, B&b as S£hiiah, took its name, presumably at a period subsequent to Saladin's reconquest of the Holy City. Describing all these localities in 985, Mukaddasi writes as follows : "Jabal Zaiti (the Mount of Olives) overlooks the Great Mosque from the eastern side of the Widt (Jahannum). On its summit is a mosque built in memory of 'Omar, who sojourned here some days when he came to receive the caj^ilulation of the Holy C!ity. There is also a church built on the spot whence Christ ascended into heaven ; and further, near by is the place called As S:\hirah (the Plain), which, as I have been informed on the authority of (the traditionist) Ibn 'Abbas, will be the scene of the resurrection. The ground is white, and blood has never been spilt here. Now, the Wadi Jahannum runs from the south-cast angle JERUSALEM, 219 of the Haram Area to the furthest (northern) ixjint (of the cily), and along the east side. In this valley there are gardens and vine- yards, churches, caverns and cells of anchorites, tombs, and other remarkable spots, also culn .. led fields. In its midst >tan(ls the church which covers the Se])uichre of Mary, and above, o\erluak- ing the valley, are many tombs, among which are those of (the Companions of the Prophet) Shaddad ibn Aus ibn Thabit and 'UbSdah ibn as Samit." (Muk., 171, 172.) Nasir-i-Khusrau, who \isited Jerusalem in 1047, '^^''^^ Muslim writer to speak of the curious edifice in the Kedron Valley, generally known as the Tomb of Absalom, which at the present day the Muslims speak of as Tantdrah Fira'ikn, or Pharaoh's Cap. Nasir writes : " The Aksa Mosque hes at the (south) east quarter of the city, whereby the eastern city wall forms also the wall of the Haram Area. When you have pa«;scd out of the Nol)le Sanctuary, there lies before you a great level plain, called the SShirah, which, it is said, will be the place of the resurrection, where all mankind shall be gathered together. For this reason men from all parts of the world come hither, and make their sojourn in the Holy City tin death overtakes them, in order that when the day fixed by God —be He piaised and exalted ! —shall arrive, they may thus lie in their tombs ready and present at the appointed place. At the border of this Plain (of the Sdhirah) there is a great cemetery, where are many places of pious renown, whither men come to pray and offer up petitions in their need. I-ying l>etween the mosque and this plain of the S&hirah is a great steep valley, and down in this valley, which is like unto a fosse, are many edifices, built after the fashion of ancient days. I saw here a dome cut out in the stone, and it is set upon the summit of a building. Nothing can l)e more curious than it is, and one asks how it came to be placed in its present position. In the mouths of the common people it goes by the appellation of Pharaoh's House. The valley of which we are spi l1 ing is the Wadi Jahannum. I in([uired how this name came lo be a|)[)lied to the place, and they told me that in the times of the Khalif 'Umar- - may iUiah receive him in grace I— the camp (of the Muslimi», who 220 I'ALESriNE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. had come up to besiege Jerusalem) was pitched here on the plain called the SlUiirah, and that when 'Omar looked down and saw this valley, he exclaimed : ' Verily this is the Valley of Jahannum/ The common people state that when you stand at the brink of the valley you may hear the cries of those in hell, which come up from below. I myself went there to listen, but heard nothing.'' (N, Kh,, 24-26.) V&ki^t (in 1225) speaks of the plain called As Sfthirah, at Jerusalem, as the scene of the Resurrection and Last Judgment, but gives no identification of its position. (Yak., iiL 25 ; Mar., ii. C. ) Miijir ad Din, in 1496, is the llrst to apply this name to the jilain iniinLcliately to the north of Jcnisalem and itest of the Kcdron A'allcy ; he, too, is the first to .speak of the Bah as Sahirah, in the city wall of the northern quarter. He writes of the plain : "As Sahirah (of old) was the {)lain which lies to the (north) west of the Mount of Ohves, not far from the Khalif 'Omar's Flace of Prayer. At the present day, however, the Plain of As Sahirah is that which Hes outside the Holy City immediately to the north. There is here the burial-ground where the Muslims (of all lands) bury their dead, and it occupies a higli position on the hillside, being called the Cemetery (Makbarah) of As Sahirah." (M. a. D., 412.) T/te Pool of Siloam and tJw ]V(U of Job. — In the lower part of the Kedron Valley are found the 'Ain SulwSn (the Spring of Siloam) and the Bir AyyQb (the Well of Job). Despite its Arab name of Wjf, the Pool of Siloam is not, properly speaking, a spring, but merely a tank fed by the aqueduct from the Viigin's Fount (called 'Ain Urom ad Daraj — ^the Fountain of the Steps), and having an intermittent supply consequent on the intermittent flow of the upper spring. It was on the wall of the tunnel connecting the Pool of Siloam with the Virgin's Fount that, in 18S0, the now celebrated Siloam inscription was accidentally discovered by a party of Jewish schoolboys. The Btr AyyQb, or Job's Well, which the Christians, since the sixieenth century, have been in the habit of calling the Well of JERUSALEM, 221 Nehemiah, is probably En Rogel — the Fuller's Sj)ring —mentioned, in the Book of Josluia (xv. 7), as standing on the boundary-line between the tribes of Judah and Benjamin. Of these two fountains of water. Mukaddasi, in 985, speaks as follows : "The village of SuKvan ib a place on the outskirts of the city. Bcluvv the village is tlie Ain Sulwan (Spring of Silonm), of fairly good water, which irrigates the large gardens which were given in l)i'(}uest {lluikf) by the Khalif 'Oihman ibn 'Affan for the poor of the city. Lower down than this, al,^ain, is Job's Well (Bir Ayyftb). It is said that on the Night of 'Arafat the water of the holy well Zamzam, at Makkah, comes underground to the water of the Spring (of Siloam). The people hold a festival here on that evening." (Muk., 171.) Nasir-i-Khusrau, in 1047, has the following entry In his Diar) : ** Going southward of the city for half a league, and down the gorge (of the WAdi Jahannum), you come to a fountain of water gushing out from the rock, which they call the 'Ain Sulwin (the Spring of Siloam). There are all round the spring numerous buildings ; and the water therefrom flows on down to a village, where there are many houses and gardens. It is said that when anyone washes from head to foot in this water he obtains relief from his pains, and will even recover from chronic maladies. There are at this spring many buildings for charitable purposes, richly endowed ; and the Holy City Itself possesses an excellent BIm&rist&n (or hospital), which is provided for by considerable sums that were given for this purpose. Great numbers of (sick) people are here served with potions and lotions; for there are physicians who receive a fixed stipend, and attend at the BimHristan." (N. Kh., 26.) 'Ali of Herat, in 1173, writes of the 'Ain Sulwan that "its waters are like those of the Well Zam/ani (at Makkah . They flow from under the Dome of the Ruck, and appear in the Wadi (Jahannum) which is beside the city." (A. H., Oxf. MS., 39, v ) YakQt, writing in 1225. quotes Mukaddasi's account already given, and adds that in his day there was a considerable suburb of the city at Sulwan and gardens. (Yak., iii. 125, 761.) The 222 PALES JIN E UNDER THE MOSLEMS, author of the Mar/lsid, who wrote about the year 1300, states that at his date the gardens had all disappeared, that the water of Sulw&n was no longer sweet, and that the buildings were all in ruin. (Nfar.y ii. 296.) Of the Well of Job, Su) Qti quotes a curious account taken from an older author. He writes : "The author of the Xiidi al Uns gives the following account of the well, which goes by the name of the prophet Job. He says : I have vead a paper in the hand- writing of my cousin, Abu Muhammad al K4sim — who gave me permission to make use thereof — which states that he read in a c ertain l>ook of history how once the water ran scarce among the people of the Holv Cii ., ..lul in their need they went to a well in the neighbourhood, whieh tlicy desrended to a depth of So cUs. At its mouth the well was to or more ells, by 4 ells across ; and its sides were lined with masunry of lari^e stones, some of which might measure even 5 ells, but most of iho-^e in the depth of the well were i or 2 ells only in lengih. A wonder was it how these stones had been set in their places. The water of the well was cold and wholasome to drink, and the people used thereof during all that year, getting it at a depth of 80 ells. When the winter came, the water rose more abundantly in the well, till it overflowed the brink, and ran over the ground in the bed of the Wadl, and turned mills for grinding flour. Now once (says Abu Muhammad), when there was scarcity of this water, and of that, too, in the 'Ain Sulwdn, I descended with some workmen to the bottom of the well to dig there, and I saw the water flowing out from under a rock, the breadth of which was a ells, by the like in height \ and there was a cavern, the entrance of which was 3 ells high, by ells across. From this cavern there rushed out an extremely cold wind, which nearly made the lights go out ; and I perceived that the roof of the cavern was lined with masonry. On entering a short distance within the cavern, the torches could not be kept alight, by reason of the force of the wind which blew therefrom. This well is in the bed of the Wadt, and the cave is in its bed, too ; and above and all around are high steep hills, which a man cannot climb, except with much fatigue. This, also, is the well of whidi Allah spake to His prophet Job (in the Kuran, JERUSALEM, 223 xxxviil 41), saying, * Stamp,' said we, *with thy foat^ 7%i> {fountain) is to wash with; tool and to drink* And so the account of Abu Muhammad al Kdsim ends." (S., 273.) The overflowing of &e waters of Job's Wdl is a matter of almost yearly occunence, as is here stated, and possibly there may be some underground channel connecting it with a resenfoir of water in the upper part of the Gorge of the Kedron. Thf Cavern of At^ra//.— Among the marvels of Jerusalem, Mukatidasi mentions a great cavern which in his day was ap- parently connected in the popular tradition with the history of Korah and his companions in rebellion, of whom mention occurs in the Kuran (xxviil 76-81) under the name of Karun. Mukad- dasi writes : " There i<? at Jerusalem, without the city, a huge cavern. Ac- cording to what I have heard from learned men, atid also have read in books, an entrance here leads into the place where lie the people slain by Moses. But there is no surety in this ; for ap- parently it is but a stone quarry with passages leading therefrom, along which one may go with torches." (Muk., 1^5.) CHAPTER VI. DAMASCUS, DeicripticMi by Mukaddafti in 9S5 a.d.— The Great Mosque— MiMaics—Ciif Gates— Other accounts^The riven of Damascus— Vill^^et round the City — The Ghautah or Plain, or Damascus— The various water-courses — The I fill of Je.sus — Ibn Julwir's description of ihe City and Mos(|ue in 1184— The ascent of the Great Dome — The two descriptions of the Clepsydra— Ibn Batutah's description in 1355— Shrines— Suburbs- Traditions — Boming of the Mosque bjr Ttmur. Damascus, called in Arabic Dimis/ik, or Dimashky is probably the most ancient city of Syria, liaving kept its name unchanged through all ages. Damascus fell into the hands of the invading Muslims in the year 635, almost immediately after the great battle on the Yarrotlk, or Hieromax River in the Haurin (see p. 54), whidi sealed the fate of Byzantine dominion in Syria. The Khalif 'Omar had named Abu 'Ubaidah commander-in-chief of the Arab anny» and, at the siege of Damascus, he took up his position before the western city gate, leaving Khilid, the victor on the Yarmiik, commander of the troops before the eastern gate. Khdlid stormed the quarter of the city near which he lay cncatnped, but on entering the town, found that the Damascenes had already capitulated to Abu 'Ubaidah, who was peaceably taking possession of the western quarter. The city, therefore, was treated as one that had in part ( niiitulated, and in jiart been taken Ijy storm : and in con- sequiMU e, during the first few years of tlie A rah dominion, the eastern jKiri of tlie great Ciiur( h of St. John was left to the Christians, while the Muslims turned the we--tern half into a mosque, both Christians mid Muslim>. it i.s said, entering their respective places of worship by the same gate. DAMASCUS, 22$ About the year 60 1 1 )amas< ns was made the seat of Government by the Khahf Mu'awiyah, the luunder ol the dynasty of Omayyah, and, under his fourth suecessor, Al Wahd, the (irent Mosque was built on the ruins of the Church of St. John, which in its turn had been raised on what had originally been the site of a heathen temple. Damascus remained the capital of the Muslim Empire till 750, when the Omayyad Dynasty was overthrown by the Abbasides, who before the end of this century founded Baghdad, and transferred the capital cit\- of Islam from Syria to Mesopo- tamia and the banks of the Tigris. By the absence of the Khalif and his Courts Damascus must have lost much of its splendour. The Great Mosque, however, still remained in all its glory, and this is well described in the following passages, which are translated from Mukaddasi*s work : ** Damascus is the chief town of Syria, and was the capital of the sovereigns of the House of Omayyah. Here were their palaces and their monuments, their edifices in wood and in brick. The rampart round the city, which I saw when I was there, is built of mud-bricks. Most of the markets are roofed in, but there is one among them, a fine one^ which is open, running the whole length of the town. Damascus is a city intersected by streams and begirt with trees. Here prices are moderate, fruits and snow abound, and the products of both hot and ( old climes are found. Nowhere else will be seen such mai;nit'u cnt hot baths, nor such beautiful fountains, nor people more wortiiy of consideration. "The city is in itself a very pleasant place, but of its di^advan- t^iges are, that the climate is scorching and the inhabitants are turbulent. Fruit here is insipid, and meat hard ; also the houses are small, and the streets scMubre. Finally, the bread there is bad, and a liwlihood is ditticult to make. Around the city, for the distance of half a league in every direction, there stretches the level Plain (of the (iimtah). In a certain book that I found in the library of 'Adud ad Daulah, it is said that there are two cities, which are tiie brides of the earth — namely, Damascus and Ar Ray (Rhages) ; and Yahya ibn Aktham states that there are in the world three places of perfect delight -namely, the Vale of Samar- kand, the (Ghdtah) of Damascus, and the Canal of Ubullah (below '5 326 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. REFERENCES TO THE PIJiN OF THE GREAT OMAYYAD MOSQUE AT DAMASCUS. A. B/vb al Bartd, Gate of the Post. B. Biih JairAn, also called Bab as S4'4t by Ibn BatOtah. G Gate called at the present day Bdb az ZiyAdah, Gate of the Addition ; or B&b as Surnmyatiyyah, Gate of the Shoemaker's Buaar. By Mttkaddasi (985) nnmcf? BAb as SiVAt, Gate of the Hours. D. Gale called at ihe present day B.lb al Wmarali ; called Bab al KarAdis, the Gate of the (Iarden«:, by Mukadi^asi and Mrisi ; and Biib an NAtitiyyin, ( late of the Ciiiifectioncis. by Ibn Jubair, or liAh an NAlif&niyyin. E. Madhanat a I (diarbiyyah, the Western Minaret. F. Madhanat Isa. Minaret of Jesus; or the While Minaret. G. M&dhanat al Atiis the Minaret of the Bride. H. The Great Mihrib, near whidi is the ancient ^teway, now closed, sur- mounted by the Greek inscription, and which opened into the Church of St. John. I. The great Dome of Lead, or Dome of the Eagle. J. Shrine said lo contain John the Baptist's head. K. Dome of the Treasury, at one time called the Dome, or the Tomb of 'Ayishah. L. Dome of the Fountain, or the Water-cage. M. Dome of the Honrs, or the Dome of Zain al 'Abidtn. DigitizGL , v^ .oogle DAMASCUS, Baghdad). Damascus was founded by Dimask, the son of Kint, the son of MAlik, the son of Arfakhshad (Arphaxad), the son of Sam (Shem), five years before the birth of Abraham ; Al Asmal, however, asserts that its name is to be derived from the word DimasMMdt meaning 'they hastened to its building.' Such as I know myself among its gates are : Mb al Jdbiyah, Bab as Saghir (the Small Gate), BAb al Kablr (the Great Gate), B&b ash Shark! (the Eastern Gate), Bib Tiimi (the Gate of St. Thomas), B&b an Nahr (the Gate of the River), and B&b al MuhAmaliyytn (the Gate of those who make CameMitters). **The Mosque of Damascus is the hixest of any that the Muslims now hold, and nowhere is there collected together greater magnificence. Its outer walls are built of squared stones, accurately set, and of laige size ; and crowning the walls are splendid battle- ments. The columns supporting the roof of the Mosque consist of black polished pillars in a triple row, and set widely apart. In the centre of the building, over the space fronting the Mihrab (towards Makkah), is a great dome. Round the court arc lolly colonnades, above which are arclicd windows, and the whole area is paved with white !narl)le. The (inner) walU of the Mosque, fur twice the height of a man, arc faced with variegated marbles ; and, above this, even to the very reiling. are mosaics of various colours and in gold, showing figures of trees and towns and beautiful inscriptions, all most exquisitely and finely worked. And rare are the trees, and few liie well-known towns, that will not be found figured on these walls ! The capitals of the columns are covered with gold, and the vaulting above the arc ades is everywhere oma- mented in mosaic. The columns round the court are all of white marble, while the walls that enclose it, the vaulted arcades, and the arched windows above, are adorned in mosaic with arabesque designs. The roofs are everywhere overlaid with plates of lead, and the battlements on both sides are faced with the mosaic work. "On the right (or western) side* of the court is the treasure* house (Bait Mdi) raised on eight columns, finely ornamented, and the walls are covered with mosaic. Both within the Mihr&b, and around it, are set cut-agates and turquoises of the size of the finest * The insitor is supposed to stand facing the Great MihrAb, H. 15—2 338 P.lLESTiSE UNDER TtiE MOSLEMS, stones that arc used in rint^s. Beside the (great) Mihrah, and to the left ^cast) of it, there is anotlicr, which is t'or the sj)ecial use of the Sultan. It was formerly much dilapidated ; hut I hear now that he has expended thereon five hundred Dinars (^^250) to restore the same to its former condition. On the summit of the Dome of the Mosque is an orange^ and above it a pomegranate^ both in gold. But of the roost wonderful of the sights here worthy of remark is verily the setting of the various coloured marbles, and how the veining in each follows from that of its neighbour ; and it is such that, should an artist come daily during a whole year and stand before these mosaics, he might always discover some new pattern and some fresh design. It is said that the Khalif al WaUd, . in order to construct these mosaics, brought skilled workmen from Persia, India, Western Africa, and Byzantium, spending thereon the whole revenues of Syria for seven years, as well as eighteen shiploads of gold and silver, which came from Cyprus. And this does not include what the Emperor of Byzantium and the Amirs of the Muslims gave to him in the matter of precious stones and other materials for the mosaics. "The people enter the Mosque by four gates — namely, Bdb Jairftn, Bab al Faradis, BSb al Barid, and BSb as Sc^'^t. Bib al Barid (the Gate of the l*ost) opens into the right-hand ((>r west side of the court). It is of great si/e, and has two sniaHer gate- ways to right and to left of it. The chief gateway and the two lesi^er ones have each of them double doors, which are covered with plate.s of gilded copper. Over the great antl the two smaller gateways are the porticos, and the doors open into the long colon- nades going round the court, \vhi( h are vaulted over, the arches of the vault resting on marble columns, while the walls are co\ered (with mosaics) alter the manner that has already been described. 1 he ceilings here are ail painted after the most exquisite designs. In these colonnades is the place of the paper-sellers, and also the court of the Kadi's (or Judge's) lieutenant. Thus the Ciate Al Barid opens between the main-building (the covered part of the Mosque) and the court. Opposite to it, and on tlie left-hand side (or east)^ is the Bab jairOn, which is similar to the Gate Al Barid just described, only that its porticos are vaulted over in the breadth. DAMASCUS, 929 To this ga.te you ascend by steps, on which the astrologers and other such people are wont to take their seat. B4b as SaL'at (the date of the Hours) is in the eastern* angle of the covered part (cf the Mosque). It has double doors, which are unomamented, and over it is a portico, under which the public notaries and the like take their seat The fourth gate is called B&b al Farftdis (the Gate of the Gardens), also with double doors. It is opposite the Mihrib^ and opens into the colonnades (on the north side of the courtyard), between the two additions (Az Ziy&datain) which have been built here on the right and the left. Above it rises a minaret. This has recently been constructed (or repaired), and is ornamented (with mosaic work) in the manner already described. Before each of these four gates is a place for ablution, of marble, provided with cells, wherein is running water, and fountains which flow into great marble basins. In the Mosque is a channel which they open once every year, and from it water gushes out, flooding the whole floor of the Mosque to about an cll deep, and its walls and area are thus cleansed. Then they ojien another c:unduit, and through it the water runs olT. From the Sultan's palace, which is behind the Mosque, and is called Al Khadra (the Green Palace), are gates leading into the MaksOrah (which is the Sultan's place of prayer), and these are plated with gold. "The Omawad Khalif *Omar ibn Abd al A/iz, it is said, wished at one tune to demolish the Mosque, and make use of its materials in the public works of the Muslims ; but he was at last persuaded to abandon the design, i have read in some book that there was expended on this Mosque the value of eighteen mule-loads of gold." (Muk., 156-160. The order of the para- graphs in our translation has, in some instances, been transposed.) In regard to the mosaic work, some fragments of which may still be seen at the present day on the walls of the Mosque, the following note, written on the margin of one of the MSS. of Mukaddasi, is worth translating : Mosaic is composed of morsels of glass, such as are used for the standard coin-weights ; but they are yellow in colour, or gray, black, red, and mottled, or else gilt, by laying gold on the surface, * Probably a mistake for ** weiMern.** 950 PALESTtHR UNDER THE MOSLEMS. which is then covered by a thin sheet of glass« They prepare plaster with Arabian gum, and lay it over the walls ; and this they ornament with the mosaics, which are set so as to form figures and inscriptions. In some cases they cover the whole sui&oe with the gold-mosaic, so that all the wall seems as though it were built of nothing but pure gold." Mosaic is called in Arabic Fas^iashah or Fusaijusi^^ a corruption of the Greek -^fi^i ; for the Muslims were in this^ as in many other arts, the pupite of the Byzantines, and borrowed their technical terms from the Greek. The two main gates of the Mosque — B&b JairAn, opening east ; and B&b al Barld, opening west — heax the same names now that they did in the earliest days of Islam. But there is some confusion in the names of Mukaddasi's two last-mentioned gates — ^that is, B&b as Si'&t and Bib al Faridis. The plan of the Mosque, given by the Rev. J. L. Porter in the first edition of Five Years in Damascus (London, 1855), is here reproduced. There is no gate opening at the present day into "M/f eastern^' angle of the Mosque. In the western portion of the south wall is the gate for which A. von Kremer (Topography of Damascus, in vol. v. of the /^itschrift Acad. IVtss.y Wien, 1854) gives three names — viz., Bah as Surmayatiyyah (of the Shoemaker's Bazaar), or Az Ziyadah (of the Addition), or As Sa'at (of the Hours). Ik\b az Ziyadah is the name by which this gate is uencrally known at present. This cannot he the gate which Mukaddasi calls Bab al Faradis. for that, he says, lies opposite the Mihrab," and opens into the colonnades through the recent additions {/jyddatain)^ although it must be confessed that this last word recalls the name of the present Bab az Ziyadah (Gate of the Addition). Mukaddasi's Bib al Faradis, however, from its position, must be the modern B&b al 'Amarah, which opens north, and is immediately east of the present Madhanat al 'Ar£is (the Minaret of the Bride). This last would, therefore, be the recently-constructed minaret of Mukaddasi ; but that here, again, is a doubt, for this is the most ancient minaret of the Mosque, having been built by the Omayyad Khalif al Walld. Perhaps, however, for constructed" we should understand " restored," and the Ambic may bear this interpreta- tion. Mukaddasi's Bib al FariUlis (Gate of the Gardens), which .^ .d by Google DAMASCUS, were on the Barada River to the north, is further identical with the Bdb an Natifiyyin (Gate of the Confectioners) mentioned by Ibn Jubair (see below, p. 252), by whom, also, the south gate (Mukaddasi's B4b as Sa'at) is invariably spoken of as the Bab az Ziyadah. The gates leading from the Mosque to Mu'awiyah's Palace of the Khadri would appear to have opened through the original south door of the Church of St. John, long since closed, but over the lintel of which may be read to the present day the well-known inscription in Greek : * Tky kingdom^ O Chnsit is an everiastt^g kingdom^ and Thy daminian tndunth throughout ati geuerutums^'^ This was, doubdess, the gate of entrance used by Muslims and Christians alike^ till the time of Al Walid's rebuilding of the Mosque. The city gates, seven in number, enumerated by Mukaddasi, may, for the most part, be easily identified. B&b Jibiyah, called from the suburb of that name, is at the western end of the " Straight Street," at the eastern end of which is Bfib ash Sharki, the P,ast Crate. During the siege of Damascus, according to Bilacihuri, Klialid lay bcibrc this Kast (iate, while Abu "Ubaidah's camp was at the Bal) Jahiyah. (Bil., 121.) Bab as Saghir, the Sniai; (iatc, lies at the south-western angle of the city wall. At the present day the name is generally corrupted into Bab ash ShaghCir, from the sul)urh of the name lying near it. Mukaddasi's Bab al Kahir, the Orcat (iate, is, presumably, what is otherwise called, in both ancient and modern days, Bab Kaisan. It opens at the south eastern angle of tlie city wail. Between l^ah Kaisdn and Bab as Saghir, says Biladhuri, lay the army under \'a/Jd ihn Abi Sufiyan during the great siege. After passing Bab ash Sharki, Bib T(kni& (Gate of St. Thomas) is at the north-east angle ; and here, during the siege, were the troops under the Arab general 'Amr ibn al 'As, in later years the conqueror of Kgypt. Bab an \aiir (the River Gate) must have opened on the Barada, and is probably the Bib al Faridis, mentioned by Bilidhuri as the site of Shurah- birs camp at the siege. It opens immediately to the north of the Great Mosque. Bib al Mahimaliyyin, the Gate of the Camel Litter-makers, is probably the Bib al Faraj mentioned by Ibn * Psalm cxlv. i j. The words ' O Christ ' beins interpolated. 233 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Jubair (see below, p. 254), or else the modem 6&b al Hadfd, which, in Ibn Jubair's days, was called B&b an Nasr, Bkh as Salam, or As Salamah. the (jatc of Safety, which is first mentioned by Iclrisi (sec below, p. 239), opens on the river, in the north wall, between the Bab Tama and the l^al) al Faraclis. During the century preceding Mukaddnsi, we have several short notices of Damascus. One of the earliest is found in the Road Book of Ibn Khurdadbih, who wrote in 864. According to his view *' Damascus is (the fabled city of) Tram of the Columns {[ram J/uit al \Amfid). The city is said to have been in existence before the days of Noah — peace he on him ! — and it was from Jabal Lubnan ^the I ebanon) that Noah set forth m the ark, which came to rest again on Mount Al Jfidi in the Kurd country. When the children of Noah had multiplied, they abandoned the caves (Sard ah) made by King NimrOd ibn Kiish, who was the first of the kings in the earth ; and he reigned over the Jews, who are th< !'r ople of the l^w." (I. Kh., 71.) Va'kubi, in 891, writes: " Damascus is the capita) of Syria. Its river is the BaradA. Abu Ubaidah, in the year 14 (635), gained possession of the dty by capitulation, entering by the B^b al Jilbiyah; while Khdlid stormed the B&b ash Sharki. Damascjus was the seat of the ancient Ghassanide kings. It contains also relics of the Jafhide princes. It was the capital of the Omayyads; and (the Green Palace called) Al KhadrS of Mu*4wiyah, which was the seat of his Government, is here. The Mosque, the finest in Islam, was built by the Khalif al Walfd " (Yb, 1 13.) In the epitome of Ibn al Fakih, the following notes are found on Damascus. The tenor of them has been copied by many subsequent writers : "Damascus has six gates ; these are: Bftb al Jabiyah, Bab as Saghir, Bab Kaisan, Bab ash Sharki, Bab Tftma, and Hal) al Faradis. All these existed from the days of the Cireeks, ^\■hen ihc Khalif al Walid had the intention of rebuilding the Mostjueat Damascus, he sent for the Christians of Damascus, and said to them : 'We purj>use to add your ( hun h to our Moscjue ; but we will give you a place for a church elsewhere, and wheresoever you will,' DAMASCUS, ^33 "And the Christians sought to turn him from it, saying: * Verily it is written in our books that he who shall destroy this church shall choke to death * " Bui Al W'alid cried out : ' \'crily I will be the first to destroy it.' So he went up into the church, and there was a yellow dome iht re. and this he destroyed with his own hand. And the people pulled down other portions, as he set the example. After tliis he increased the size of the Mo.sque by the double. When the church had thus been destroyed, the King ol Rum (lUznntium) wrote to the Klialif, saying: 'Verily thou hast destroyed the church whi( !i thy father did purpose to preserve. Now, if thou didst right, thy father then did wrong; and even if he did wrong, wa'? it for thee to set thyself in opposition to him ?' ** A I Walid did not know what to answer, but took counsel of the people, and sent to Al 'Irak even for advi<:e in the matter. And the poet, Al Karazdak, said to him: 'O, Commander of the Faithful, answer in the words of Allah — be He exalted and gloriAed ! — And (rtmembet) David and Solomon, when thty gatfe Judgment (oncerning a field when some peoples sheep had eatued a waste therein ; and IVe were rtnfnesses of their judgment. And We gave Solomon insight into the affair; and ok h(dh of them We bestowed wisdom and hnowled^eJ (Kurftn, xxi. 78, 79.) So Al WaJId wrote to the King of RClm this verse for an answer, and received no reply. Al Waltd spent on the building of the Mosque at Damascus the land-tax {KharaJ) of the Empire during seven years. He finished the building thereof in the space of eight years. The ac- counts of the expenditure were brought in to him on the backs of eighteen camels, hut he ordered them al! to he burnt. There is pray- ing space for twenty thousand men in this Mosque, and there are six hundred golden c for .suspendiii;; ihe lamps. Of Zaid ibn Wakid, it is related that the Khalif al W alid made him overseer for die building of the .Mosmu' at Damascus, and he di.seovcrcd there a ca\e, the fart of which was made known to Al V\"alid, By night the Khalif descended thereinto, and, behold, it was a beautiful chapel, 3 ells long, by the like across, and within lay a chest, inside of which was a basket, on which was written : 'jyiis ts the ^34 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Head of John y the son of Zacharias. And after they had examined it, Al W'alicl commanded that it should be placed under a certain pillar in the Mosque that he indicated. So it was placed beneath this pillar, which is now inlaid with marble, and it is the fourth of those on the eastern side, and is known as 'Amiid as Sakasik, the Pillar of Humility. At the time the head was laid here. Zaid, aforesaid, states that he saw the same, and that the hair and flesh thereon had nowise suffered decay. "The Minarets {Maidliafiah) which are in the Damascus Mosque were originally watch-towers in the (Ireek days, and l)elonged to the Church of John. When Al Walid destroyed this church, and turned the whole Area into a Mosque, he left these in their old condition. He who was afterwards the Khalif Mu'awiyah built the Khadra (Palace) in Damascus during the Khalifate of 'Othman, and while he himself was Governor of Syria." (I. F., 106-108.) From Mas'ikdi's great historical work, entitled 2he Meadcws 0/ Goldy written in the year 943 a.d., some interesting notes on Damascus are to be gleaned: " The Khalif Mu*4wiyah lies buried at the gate called B&b as Saghtr ; this tomb is still, in the present year, 332 a.h., much visited. Over it stands a building, which is opened every Monday and Thursday." (Mas., v. 14.) ** In the year 87 (706) the Khaltf al Walid began the construction of the Great Mosque at Damascus. When he had begun to build, they found in the court of the Mosque a tablet of stone, on which was an inscription in Greek, which none of the learned could read, till it was sent to Wahb ibn Munabbih, who pronounced that it had been written in the days of Solomon, the son of David; and Wahb read it. The Khalif al Walid gave orders to set an inscription in gold on Lii)is lazuli in the court of the Mosque, and it r;Ln as follows: Allah is our Lord, and ivc worshif* noue but Aluih. The servant of . laa//, Al fPaltd, the Comtftandi r of the Faithful, liiith ordered the bnildinf^ of this A/osf/i/e, and the destruc- tion oj the ehureh luhieh was here in former days. Set up in Dhn-l- Hijjah of t/ieyear%i.* These words, written in gold, may be seen * Not a trace of this inscription is to be seen at the present day. Con- cerning Wahb ibn Munabbih, see p. 142. DAMASCUS, ^35 in the Mosque of Damascus in these our own days, in the year 33a A.H." (Mas., V. 361.) Concerning Jairikn, after whom the eastern gate of the Mosque is named, Mas'ddi supplies the following information : Jairfin was the son of Sa'ad, son of 'Ad, and he came to Damascus, and made it his capital He transported thither a great number of columns of marble and alabaster, and constructed thereof a lordly edifice, which he called /ram dk&t ai *Am^4^ or Iram of the Columns. In our own days, in the year 332 a.h., this same edifice is to be seen in one of the markets at the Gate of the Great Mosque, called Bib Jairfin. This Palace of Jairdn was a wondrous building. Its gates were of brass. Part of it remains as it was, and part is incorporated in the Mosque.'* (Mas., iii. 271.) The geographer Istakhri, whose work was re-edited by Ibn Haukal in 978, gives the following account of Damascus. Ibn Haukal s work, it will l>e noted, is almost conleiiiporancous with the long description already quoted from Mukaddasi : *M)amascus (l)imishk) is the name of the province ; and its capital, called by the same name, is the most glorious of the cities of Syria. It lies in an extensive plain, with mountains round it, and water in plenty is on every hand. Trees and fields ari' continuous on all sides. This plain is called the Ghuiah ; it extends a march across, by two marches in length, and nowhere in all Syria is there a more delightful place. The waters of Damascus take their rise at a spot under a church, known by the name of .M Fijah, to which place also descends the stream from 'Ain Baradft in Jabal Santr. And all along its banks are numerous springs. The spring of water at P'ijah is an eli deep, by a fathom across. Below this spot there branches off a great canal, which the Khalif Yaztd, son of Mu'iwiyah, had dug. This is so deep that a man may pltmge into its waters. Below this, again, there branch off (the two canals of) the Nahr al Mizzah and the Nahr al Kanit (or Kanawit). The main stream leaves the gorges at a place called An Nlrab. This is said to be the place alluded to in the words of the KuHtn (xxiil 53): 'And we prepared for both (Mary and her Son) an abode in a lofty hill, quiet, and watered with PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, springs.' Below this gorge is the main stream of the Baradi river. In the middle of the city of Damascus a bridge crosses the river, for the stream is vciy broad, and so deep that a rider cannot ford it. Below tlie city, again, the river waters all the villages of the Ghdtah. But from above, the water is conducted into all the houses and streets and baths of the dty. Now, as to the Mosque at i>amascu8, there is none to equal it in all Islam, and on none other has so much been spent. The walls and the dome, which is above the Mihr&b near the MaksOrah, were built by the ancient Sabaeans, for this was their place of worship. After them it camie into the hands of the Greeks, and they also held their worship there. From them it passed to the Jews, and the kinj^ who were idolaters. In their day was slain John, the son of Zacharias, and they set up his head above the Gate of the M osque, which is called the B&b Jair(kn. .\nd after this the Christians conquered the city, and in their hands it became a church, wherein they were wont to worship. Now, when Islam came, and the place passed into the power of the Muslims, they turned it into a mosque, and ovtr the Gate Jairun was sit the head of Al Ilu^aiii ibn 'Ali (grandson of the Pro])hct), in the very place where had been set the head of John the son of Zac harias of old. ^\'hen it came to the days of the Klialif al W ahd, the son of 'Abd al Malik, he built (the Mosque), laying down the pave- ment in niarl)les, fa( ing the walls with variegated marble, and setting u[) marble pillars of various colours; and the keystones (of the arches) and the cai)itals of the columns he overlaid with gold. The Mihra!> also was gilt everywhere, and set with precious stones, while the ( eihng was of wooden beams likewise gilt. All round the ( eiling ran an inscription on a gold background, and this con- tinued round all the four walls of the Mosque. *'It is said that there was spent on this Mosque the whole revenue of Syria for two (five or seven)* years. The roof of the Mosque is of leaden plates. When they wish to cleanse the Mosque they let in water, which flows over the whole of the floor, and before it is drawn off it has spread out into all the comers, for the area is perfectly level In the time of the Omayyads, the Kharaj (or revenue from the land-tax) of Syria was 1,200,000 * Other MSS. DAMASCUS, Dinars (another MS. gives the amuuiii as 1,800,000 Dinars - 600,000 or ^900,000). The violent and insurgent way.s of the Damascenes are owing to the influence of their Star, which is the sign of Leo, and it has this effect when in the ascendant. The Damascenes arc alwavs revolting against their governors, and they are treacherous by nature. Leo in the ascendant is also the Star of Samarkand, Ardabil, Makkah, and l^ilermo." (Is., 59, 60; I. H., 1 14-116, and copied in part by A. F., 230.) Idrisi, writing in 1x54 from the accounts be obtained of home- coming travellers, or read in books — for, as above noticed (p. 7), it would not appear that he bad ever himself tra\ elled in Syria — gives a most glowing account of Damascus and the great plain in which the city lies. He writes : "Damascus is the most beautiful city of Syria, the finest in situatiofi, the most temperate in climate, the most humid in soil, having the greatest variety of fruits, and the utmost abundance of vegetables. The greater part of the land here is fruitful, and the most portion rich. Everywhere is seen the plain country, and the houses are high built Damascus has bills and fields, which last are {in a plain) called the Ghautah (or GhCitah). The Ghautah is two marches long, with a breadth of one march ; and in it are farmsteads that resemble towns ; such are Al Mizzah, D&rayi, Barzah, Harasta, Kaukabd, Balfts, Kafar Silsiyyah, and Bait Ilahiyd, in which last is a mosque nearly as laige as that of Damascus. From the western gate of Damascus goes the WSdf al Banafsaj, the Valley of Violets, the length of which is 12 miles, and the l)rea(lth 3 miles. It is everywhere planted \\\th various sorts of fruit-trees. Five streams run through it, and in every one of its domains are from one to two thousand inhabitants. The Ghautah, too, is co\ered with trees and crossed by rivers, and its waters rannfy and spread uito all its orchards and farms. There are grown here all sorts of fruits, so that the mind cannot conceive the variety, nor can any comparison show what is the iruitfulness and excellence thereof, for Damascus is the most delightful of all God's cities in the N\ hole world. The waters of the (ihautah come down in pnrt from "Ain nl Fijah, which is a spring up in the mountains. The waters burst out high in the mountain-flank like a great river, making a frightful noise and a great rushing, which you may hear from afer. 238 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. The water flows down from hence to the village of Abil, and from here attains the city. But before it comes to the city there branch off from it many well-known canals, such as the Nahr Yazid, Nahr Thaurah, Nahr Barada, Nahr Kandt al Mizzah, Nahr Banas, Nahr Sakt, Nahr Yashkftr, and Nahr 'Adiyah. The water of the river of Damascus is not used for drinking purposes, for into its stream open the conduits that carry away the filth of the city, and the pipes from the wash-houses and the smaller waterways. The water of the river ramifies through all the city, and over its main stream is a bridge which the people cross, as likewise is the case by the other canals we have mentioned From the riverside go the markets, and water is conducted to all parts of the city, entering the houses and the baths and the markets and the g^dens. *' In Damascus there is the Mosque, the like of which building exists in no other place of the earth, nor is any more beautiful tn proportion, nor any more solidly constructed, nor any more securely vaulted, nor any more wonderfully planned, nor any more admirably decorated with all varieties of gold mosaic work, and enamelled tiles, and polished marble. The Mosque stands in a quarter of the city called Al Mizab. He who approaches it by the side of the HAl) Jairiin ascends thereto by lar^'c and l)road steps of marble soir.e tliirty in nunil)L'r, whik- whoso wuuld enter the Mosque from the side of the Bab al iiarid, or from the Khadra passage-way, or from the Kasr (Castle), or from the Golden Stone {Hajar adh Dhahab), or the Bab al Faradis, enters on the level of the ground and ascends no stcjis. There are in the .\h)S(]iie many remains of j'ast ages, such as the walls, and the dome, which is above the Mihrah near tlie Maksurah. They say that this dome was built by the Sabaeans, ii having been their place of prayer; after whom it passed into the hands of the Greeks, who celebrated therein the rites of their religion; and after them it passed to certain kings who were idolaters, and then it served as a house for their idols. It then passed to the Jews, and in their days John, the son of Zachariah, was put to death, and his head was placed above the Gate of the Mosque, called the Bib JairOn. Next the Christians took the city, and, entering into possession, in their hands the edifice became a church, wherein they performed their services. Lastly came Islam, conquering the city, and the Muslims DAMASCUS. 2j9 turned it into a J&mi' Mosque. Now, when it came to the days of the KhaliT H Waltd, the son of 'Abd al Malik, of the House of Omayyahy he built the Mosque, and laid the floor in marble, and gilded the arches and the capitals, and erected a golden Mihrftb (or niche), and set into all the walls jewels of various kinds. And all under the ceiling ran an inscription, which went round the four walls of the Mosque, of most beautiful workmanship and most elegant characters. It is said that this Khalif covered the outer roof with plates of lead, 'firmly joined together, and of most durable construction. Water was brought into (the Mosque) through conduits of lead, and when it was necessary to cleanse the Mosque, they opened the water-pipes, and in a most convenient manner flooded ihc whole of the Mosque court. They say tliat the Khalif al Walid, aforementioned, expended on the construction of the Janii' Mostjue the revenues of Syria for two whole years. ** Damascus has been rebuilt since the days of liilam. In ancient times tliere stood on the place it now occupies a town called Al Jabiyah. This was in the days of ignorance (l)eforc Islam), and Damascus was subsctiuently built in its place. The city has various gates : arr.otig others, Hah al Jabiyah. Before this gate there are lands that are everywhere l)uilt over with houses, for a distance of some 6 miles in the length, and 3 miles in the breadth, and the whole of this space is covered with trees and houses, among which meander streams of water. Of other gates are Hab TOma (Gate of St. Thomas), B&b as Salimah, Bab al Faradis—over against which last is the convent known as Dair Murrin — and lastly, Bkb as Saghti . '*The City of Damascus contains all manner of good things, and streets of various craftsmen, with (merchants selling) all sorts of silk and brocade of exquisite rarity and wonderful workmanship— all this, such that the like exists nowhere else. That which they make here is carried into all cities, and borne in ships to all quarters, and all capital towns both far and near. The manu- ikcture of the Damascus brocade is a wonderful art It some- what resembles the best of the brocades of the Greeks, and is like to the cloths of Dastawi (in Persia), and rivals the work of Ispahin, being preferred for workmanship to the broideries of Nlshdpur for the beauty of the unvariegatcd raw-silk woof. Further, the PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Damascuh wurk is better than the host of the (Egyptian) cloths froiii Tinnis, and the einl)r()idcries of l)ania.scus take the prize of ihe most precious of stuffs, ;ind of all beautiful things. Vou cannot equal them in any sort, nor set to them their like. " Within the City of Damascus there are many mills on the streams, and the wheat i^oiind there is of extremely good quality. Also there are various kinds of fruits, which for sweetness you wdl not find the like elsewhere ; and it would be impossible to describe the abundance and the excellence and the lusciousness thereof. The inhabitants of Damascus have most plentiful means of li\ eli- hood, and all they require. The craftsmen of the city are in high renown, and its merchandise is sought in all the markets of the earth ; while the city itself is the most lovely of the cities of Syria and the most perfect for beauty/' (Id., 12-15.) 'Ali of Heratp who wrote in 1173, mentions among the places worthy of visitation at Damascus, the Hill (Kibwah), near Jabal al KftsiyCin,^ where Christ and the Virgin Mary dwelt; also the Cavern of Blood, where Cain slew Abel All this has been copied into YSki^t (see below, p. 359). At a place called Mash- had al Akdam, south of Damascus, is shown a sacred foot- print, and near it the Tomb of Moses; but this last, as 'Ali remarks, is not authentic In the court of the Damascus Mos(iuc, the small edifice known as the Treasury (Bast al M&l) was pointed out in his day as being the Tomb of 'Ayishah, the Prophet's favourite wife. (A. H., Oxf. MS., ff. 16, 24.) In the year 11 84 Damascus was visited by the Spanish Arab Il)n Jubair. He has devoted a large section of his Diary to a descrij)ti()ii of all the wonders of tiie city, which he duly visited during his sojourn there. These he enumerates and describes in the rlictorical style so muc h affected by the writers of this period. A full translation of his Diary would be tedious and octuj)y too much space ; and in the following rendering of the original Arabic, while everything of interest has, it is hoped, been preserved, the * The name of Jabal Kiusiyun, the hill overiiangaig n.miascus on the mirth- west, is said to be a conraption of Mmt Ca$ius» It should be noted, however, that no clasical geographer speaks of a Mans Castus in the neighbourhood of DaouM^us. DAMASCUS. 241 pompous phraseology has been considerably condensed. The caravan with which Ibn Jubair travelled reached Damascus in July, 1184 (Second Rabi' a.h, 580), and they stopped at a place called Dar al Hadith. lyinjj; to the west of the Jaini' Mosque. After speaking of the beautiful gardens, the excellent climate, and other such matters which have caused the city to be called the Bride of the Earth, Ibn Jubair notes that to the east extends the plain of the Ghautah, green and beautiful to see, the whole country round being a perfect Paradise of Earth. His description of the Great Mosque is as follows : **Of the wonders of the Jimi* Mosque of Damascus is that no spider spins his web there, and no bird of the swallow-kind (Kkutt&/) alights thereon. The Khalif al Waltd was he who began to build the Mosque. He applied to the King of the Greeks at Constantinople to send him twelve thousand men of the artificers of his country, at the same time threatening him with chastise- ment if he delayed. But the King of the Greeks did as he was commanded with all docility, and many embassies went from the one Sovereign to the other, even as is related in the books of histor)-. Then the Khalif began, and brought to a close, the building of the Mosque, And all its walls were overlaid with the mosaic work called Al Fusaifits&. With this ornamentation they depicted in \aricd colours all manner of objects, such as trees» making the semblance of their branches hanging down, all worked into a pattern. Also there were interlaced scrolls of mosaic, whereon were depicted various novel and wonderful subjects most astounding to behold; so that, on account of the brilliaiu > and splendour, those who ranie were fain to cover their eyes. The sum expended on the building of the Mosque- atcordinu to the authority of Ibn al Mut^hli al Asa ii. in his work descriptive of the building— was four hundred ( he>ts, each chest containing 28,000 Dinars, the sum total coniin- to 1 1,200,000 Dinars.* " It was the Khalif al Walid who took possession of thr>t half of the Mosque which was still in the hands of the Christians, and threw the two portions into one. For in early days the building * Above five and a hftlf millions sterling. The figures are doubtle*^ imaginary, aud some difierent readings occur in the MSS. 16 242 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, was divided into two portions — one half — and it was the eastern — belonged to the Muslims, and the other half — namely, the western — to the Christians. And this by reason that A!)u 'Ubaidah ihn al Jarrah had (during the siege) entered the city on the west quarter, and had reached the western side of the ehurch, and here had made a capitulation with the Christi.ins ; while, in the meantime, Khri'id ihn al Walid had taken the eastern part of the city l)y assault, and had from this side arrived at the eastern wall of the church. The eastern portion (of the Church of St. John) thus cnme by conquest into the hands of the Muslims, and they had made of it a mosque ; but the western half, where the treaty of capitulation had been granted, had remained to the Christians, and was their church until the time when Al Walid took it from them. He would have given them another church in exchange ; but the Christians would not agree, and they made objec- tion to the act of the Khatif, and forced him to take their church from them by force, and he himself began the work of demolishing the building. Now, it had been said that he who should pull down this church would become mad ; but, none the less, Al Waltd made haste to begin, crying out, ' Let me be mad ; yea, mad in the work of God i' and so began to pull down the walls with his own hands. Then the Muslims hastened to his aid, and very soon the whole was demolished. Afterwards, during the days of the Khalif *Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz, the Christians kid a petition before the Khalif on this matter, and they brought forth the treaty which was in their hands, in which the Companions (of the Prophet who were present at the siege) had agreed to leave the western portion to them entirely. iJuKir would fai)i have given the Mosque back lo llie Christians, but die Muslims were of a mind lo prevent him. So the Khalif gave the Christians in exchange for their consent to its remaining to the Muslims a great sum, and with this they went away content. It is said that the first who raised the Kiblah wall at this s^)ot was the F'rophet Hdd— ])eace be on him ! -so, at least, says Ibn al Mughli. Ac- cording to the authority of the traditionist Sufiyan ath Thuri, one prayer said in this Mosque is equivalent to thirty thousand prayers said elsewhere. DAMASCUS, 243 shall now proceed to tiuuiieratc the measurements ot the Mosque, and to give the number ot gates and windows therein. The measure of it in the length, from east to west, is 2CO paces i^khatwoh), wliich is equivalent to 300 ells; and ilie measuie thereof in the width, from the Kiblah to the middle (of the north wall), is 135 paces, which is 200 ells. Its area in Maghribi Marja's* is 24 Marja's. And this is also the measurement of the Prophet's Mosque (at Al Madinah) ; except that in this last the length is in the direction from north to south, not east and west,, as at Damascus. The aisles {balAtah) of the (Maio-building of the) Mosque adjoin the southern side of the court, and are three in number, running from west to east The breadth of each aisle is 18 paces — each pace counting as i| ells — and the said aisles are supported on sixty-eight columns. Of these, fifty^four are pillars (that stand alone), while eight. are pilasters of gypsum, and two are built of marble^ and m set into the wall which divides the aisles from the court The remaining four columns are made of most exquisite marble set in with coloured stones in mosiac, each stone of which might be coveted as a ring-stone. Some of the Mihrdbs (prayer-niches), and other buildings in the widest of the naves, are also most beautifully ornamented and proportioned. Such, for instance, is the Dome of I^ad {Kubbat ar /^asth), and the Doine wliich is over tlie Mihrzlb. The piers liiijcr ihiM ure 16 spans is/n7>r) broad, and 20 spans across ; while between each of the piers is a spate measuring 17 paces in the len*^th, and in the Ijreadth 13 paces. Each of these piers measures 72 spans in perimeter. " All round three sides of the court is a colonnade {halAt). On the eastern, western, ;ind northern sides its breadth is 10 paces. The number of its coiunins is forty-seven, of which fourteen are pilasters of gypsum, and the remainder are free standing. The breadth of the court, exclusive of the portion roofed over on the south and on the north, is 100 paces. The roofs of the Mosque buildings, externally, are all covered with sheets of lead. The most magnificent sight in this Jdmi' Mosque is the Kubbat ar * The Mtttya* was m. Isnd^neasare in use throughout Spun and the Western Lands, and oobtained about seven square yards of superficies. 16 — 2 «44 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Rasas (the Dome ol Lead), which is above the Mihrab in the centre of the building. Its summit lowers high in the air, of a wonderful eirLUinferencc ; so that it would seem as though it were a great temple. A central nave is below it, going from the Mihrab to the court ; and over this nave (as seen from the interior) are three domes — namely, the dome which is close to the Mosque wall towards the court ; the dome which is over and adjacent to the Mihrab ; and the dome which is below (that i% forming the inner skin of) the Xubbat ar Rasas, rising between the other two. The Great Dome of Lead thus broods over the void; and, as you approach, you perceive an admirable effect. And the people have likened it to a flying Elagle (Nasr) — the Dome itself being as the head ; the aisle below being the breast ; the half of the wall of the right aisl^ and the half to the left> being the two wings of the Eagle.* The width of this main aisle leading towards the court is 30 paces. The people are wont to name this part of the Mosque An Nasr— 'the Eagle' — on account of this likeness. From whatever quarter you approach the city you see this Dome, high above all else, as though sus- pended in the air. The Mosque is situated on the northern side of the city. The number of gilt and coloured glass windows (called S^masijya/i) in the Mosque is seventy-four. In the inner dome, which is below the Dome of Lead, are ten. In the dome which is close to the Mihrab there are, together with those in the adjacent wall, fourteen such windows. In the length of the wall to the ligliL of the Mihral>, and to the left of it, are furty fuur. In the dome adjacent to the wall of the ( ourt are six. In the back of the wall towards the court are lorty-seven windows.! ** There are in the Mosque tliree Maksurahs (or railcd-in spaces). The Maksurah of the Companions (of the Prophet) - Allah accept them ! — was the first Maksurah ever constructed in Islam, and it was built hy the Khalif Mu'awiyah. Opposite the Mihrab thereof, on the right of him who facei> the Kiblah point, * The Great Uome is itself known at the present day as the KubLat an Nasr, the Dome of the Eagle. t Makinfc altogether 121, not 74 ; the last 47 are presumably not counted as in the Mosque, DAMASCUS. MS 18 the Iron Gate. Ma'iwiyah used to enter the MaksOrah through this, going to the Mihr&b. Opposite the Mthr&b, on the right, is the Place of Prayer of Abu-d Dardil- -Atlah accept him! Behind the MaksCtrah was the Palace of Mu'ftwiyah. This, at the present day, is the Great Bazaar of the Coppersmith?, and it lies contiguous to the Kiblah (or south) wall of the Mosque. There is no bazaar to be seen anywhere finer than this, and none greater in length and in breadth At the back of this bazaar, again, and not far off, is the Cavalry House {Dtir al Khail)^ whirh (UiLls from the same early epoch. It is, at the present day, let out to tenants, and is the place where the ( lothmakers work. The length of the Maksurah of the Com- panions aforementioned is 44 spans, and its breadth is half its length. Near by it on the west, in the middle of the Moscjue, is the New Maksfirah which was !>iiilt at the time when the half of the original edifire, which had been a church, was inror|X)rated into the Mosque after the manner |:irevioiisly related. Tn this Mak- sOrah is the Pulpit of the Friday-Sermon, and the Mihrab of the public-prayers. The Mihr&b of the Companions was originally in the centre of that portion of the church which belonged to the Muslims, and there was a wall of separation, which started from where the Mihrab now stands in the Kew Maksfirah. When the whole of the church was made into a Mosque, the Maksfirah of the Companions thus came to be on one side in the eastern part ; white the New Maksfirah was erected in the middle of the Mosque, where stood the wall of separation before the two halves were united into one area. This New Maksfirah is larger tiian that of the Companions. Further to the west, facing the wall, is another Maksfirah. It goes by the name of Al Hanafiyyah ; and those of the Hanafite sect assemble here for holding their lectures, and this is their praying-place. Opposite to it is a chapel (Ziinuva/i), built all round with lattices of wood, as though it were a small Maksfirah. On the eastern side, also, is a second chapel of a like appearance, and resembling a Maksfirah. It was erected as a place for praying in by one of the Turkish Amtrs of the State. It lies close up against the eastern wall. There urc in the Mosque many nlher similar cha[>cls, 246 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. which the scholars {Tdiib) use as places wherein to sit and copy (the Kuiin) and for lectures, and for private assemblies ; and they are among the advantages this Mosque offers to students. In the wall of the Main-building of the Mosque, towards the court, which Is surrounded by the colonnades, there are, on the south side of the court, twenty doors» set one beside the other in the length thereof. The upper parts of these are ornamented in plaster that is stamped out, even as is the work in the windows ; and the eye beholding the row of them will deem them a most beautiful sight* As to the colonnades that surround the Court on the other three sides, namely, north, east, and west, these are supported on columns, and above the columns are round arches resting on smaller columns, and these go all round the Court This Court is one of the finest sights that can be seen. There is always therein a concourse of the peoi)le of the town, for they come here to meet and take their pleasure of conversation every eventide. You may see them there coming and going, from east to west, from the Bab Jairun to the Bdb al Karid, walking and talking. " The Mosque has three Minarets. One is at the (south) western side. It is like a high tower resembling a sj)acious dwelling divided into chapels. These are locked off. for the Minaret is inhabited by Maghribin anchorites. The topmost of the chambers was the retreat of Abu Hamid al (ihazzali — Allah have mercy on him ! — and at the present day it is inhabited by a certain anchorite called Abu 'Abd Allah. The second Minaret is on the (south) eastern* side, and is of the same description with the last. The third is on the northern side, rising above the gate called Bab an Natitiyyin (the Gate of the Swcctm cat-sellers). In the Court of the Mosque are three Cupolas. The one in the western part is the laigest of die three. It stands on eight columns of marble, and rises like a basdon, and is ornamented with mosaic, and all kinds of coloured stones^ so as to resemble a flower-garden for beauty. Over it is a leaden dome, like a great round oven-top. They say it was originally the Treasury of the Mosque, for be it known the Mosque possesses great wesdth, and has lands producing various crops, the rent equalling in amount, as I have been told, * The MS. read " western io error. DAMASCUS. 247 to about 8^000 Dtnftrs Syrian per annum (£4,000), wihich is 15,000 Dtnftrs Mfiminiyyah, or thereabouts. The second Cupola is smaller, and stands in the middle of the Court It is hollow and octagonal, built of marble blocks fitted most wonderfully together. It is supported on four small columns of marble, and under it is a round grating of iron, in the centre of which is a copper spout, from which pours a water-jet that first rises and then falls again, as though it were a silver wand The people are accustomed to put their mouths thereto, at the side, and drink therefrom. It is very beautiful, and is called the Water Cage (A'j/j tii A/ii). i he third Cupula stands on the eastern side. It is suj)portcd on eight columns, like the large cupola (to the west), but it is smaller. "On the northern side of the Court is a great gateway leading into a large Mosciuc, in the centre of which is a court. There is here a tank of mariile, large in size, and through it water is eon tiniially flowing. An octagonal l)asin of white marble, which stands in the middle of the tank is supi)orted on sculptured columns, and the water is brought from the tank up into the basin. This Mosque is called Al Kallasah (the l.ime Furnace).* On the eastern side of the Court (of the Great .Mosque) is another gateway leading to a most beautiful Mosque, most magnificently ()]anned and built, which the Shi'ahs say is the shrine (or Mash- bad) of the Khalif 'AH ; but this is one of the most extraordinary of their inventions. Another of their wondeifut stories is what is related of a chapel in the western part (of the Mosque Court). At the angle, where the northern colonnade joins the western, is this chapel, which is covered above by a veil, and there is a veil also in front hanging down. They say this is the place of 'Ayishah (the wife of the * The K.illasah the Chalk-pit or Lime-kiln to the north of the M(>=:f]t!e, originally tite place where ihc lime was huriu that was used in the btiildiii^'. In 555 (1160) Sultan Nur ad Dia Zaiiki built a college on thi^ gruuml, and called the edifice Al KallUfth. It was burnt down in 570 (11 74), together widi the Midhanat al 'Ards (the Minaret of the Bride) of the Great Mosque near it. SaUulin afterwards rebuilt the Kalt&sah, nnd himself was buried to the north ()f the building, in a mansoleum which still exists. See Quatremire, Sultans MafHlaukSf it 287. 248 PALESTJNE^ UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Prophet), whi-rc she was wunt to sit atui listen to the Traditions. Thus 'Ayishah, as well as 'Ali, is fuund eoniinemorated in Damas- cus. Now as to 'Ali, tliere may he some authority for the attribu- tion, for it is reported tliat he was seen by a person in a dream, ])raying here in the very })lace where the Shi aha have budt their shrine. lUit as for the place that is called after 'Ayishah, there is no authority for it, and we have only mentioned it as being celebrated in the descriptions of the Great Mostiue. Now the Kallasah Mosque is most beautiful, l)oth within and without, and there are mosaics of gold, worked as has been before described. The building has three domes side by side. I'he Mihrab is one of the wonders of Islam for beauty, admirably built, and is gilded throughout. In the centre part of this Mosque are several smaller Mihral)s along the wall These are set round with little pillars of a twisted pattern, and it is as though the twist had been made in a tuming-lathe, and nothing can be seen more beautiful. Some are red, as though of coral. The renown of the Kiblah (Niche) of this Mosque, and also of its domes and its windows that are gilt, and coloured, is beyond report. But to return to the Great Mosque. In the eastern angle of the New Maksiirah, in the Mihrib, there is a great treasure- chamber, in which is kept one of the copies (of the Kurftn) that belonged to the Khalif 'Othman. This is the copy that was sent into Syria (to Mu*&wiyah, at the time of *Othman's murder). This treasury is opened every day at prayer-time, and the people gain a blessing by touching the book, and by looking at it, and many go there so to do. "Now the Great Mos(|ue has four gates. The southern gate is called Hab az Ziyadah (tfie (late of the Adthlion).* There is a great hall, broad, and with mighty columns leading from it. In this are the shops of the head-sellers, and the like trades, and it is a fine sight lu see. I'rom it you go into the Dar al Khail (the old Cavalry I louse aforementioned) ; and on the left, as you go out through this gate, is the Ba/aar of the Coppersmiths. In the old time this was the Palace of the Khalif Mu'awiyah, and was called Al Khadr4 (the Green Palace). The eastern gate of the * As at present, see p. 231. DAMASCUS. 249 Mosque is the largest of all the gates, and U called the B&b JatrOn. The western gate is called the B&b al Baiid (the Gate of the Post). The northern gate is called the Bib an Nitifiyytn (the C>ate of the Sweetmeat-sellers). To east and to west and to north of these gates are broad halls, and each of these leads to one of the great gateways which were (in ancient times) the entiances into the church, and these halls remain standing even to this present day. " The finest of these halls is that which adjoins the B&b JairAn (or eastern gate of the Mosfiin. ). \ou out from this gate into a long and broad jjortico, in llic front ])art of which are five door- ways, arched over, and there are six tall columns here. To the left hand of this is a large and finely-built oratory (Mash had) in which was ke|)t the head of Al Hiisnin, before it wa:> transported to Cairo. Opposite to this is a small mosque called after the Khalif Omar ibn Abd al A/i/. In the oratory there is running water. In front of the portico (of the Bab Jairfm) are steps \\ herel)y you go down to the hall. This last is like a great fos.se, and leads to a gateway of mighty elevation, with sides unwalled, but set all round with columns that are like ])ahns for height, and like mountains lor firnmess. On either side of this hall are set columns, among which are the rows of shops occupied by the perfumers and the like. Up above is a second row of shops and chambers for letting, and from these you can look down into the hall. All round and about, above this, is the teirnce roof, where the occupiers of the chambers and the shops pass the night (in the summer- heats). In the centre of the hall is a large tank rimmed round with marble ; and over it is a dome that is supported on marble columns. Round this dome, up alx>ve, is a border of lead that is very broad, and the dome is open to the sky. In the middle of the marble tank lielow, is a spout of brass which throws up water with great force, and it rises into the air for a man's height or more. All round it are smaller spouts which throw up water also, so that the whole looks like the branches of a silver tfee, and is most beautiful to watch. "On your right hand, coming out of the "Mb JairOn, in the wall of the portico fronting you, is a gallery, which has the form of a PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, great archway, and set round it are arches of bcass, in which open small doors, in niimher according to the number of the hours of the day. 'I'hrough the working of a piece of mechanism, when one hour of the day is passed, there fall two weights of brass from the mouths of two falcons fashioned in brass, who stand above two brazen cups, set one under each of the birds. One of the falcons is below the first of the doors, and the second below the • last of them. Now the cups are perforated, and as soon as the balls have fallen, they run back through a hole in the wall to the gallery. The falcons appear to extend their necks when holding the balls, leaning towards the cups, and to throw the balls off with a quick motion, so wondrous to see that one would imagine it was magic. With the falling of the two balls into the two cups, there is heard a sound (as of striking) a bell ; and thereupon the doorway, which pertains to the hour that has elapsed, is shut with a brass door. A similar action goes on for each of the hours of the da)- : and when all the liours of the day are ]\issed, all the doors arc shut. When all the (day) hours are passed, the mechaiiisni returns to its first corKhtion, For the hours of the night tkey have another mechanism. It is this — in the bow of the great arch, which goes over the (small) arches (with the doors), just mentioned, are twelve circles cut out in the brass, and over each of these o[>enings, in the wall of the gallcn,-, is set a plate of glass. This is all so arranged as to lie behind the doors (for the day-hours) above mentioned. Behind each glass is n lamp-glass, in which is water set to run for the space of one hour. When the hour is past, the light of the lamp, coming down, illumines the glass, and the rays shine out of the round opening in front of it, and it appears to the sight as a red circle. This same happens to each circle in turn, till all the hours of the night are passed, and then all the circles have red light in them. There are eleven workmen (belonging to the Mosque) who attend to this gallery, and keep the mechanism in order, and see to the opening of the doors, and the running back of the weights into their proper places. This (piece of mechanism) is what the people call Al Mikaniyyah.* * The reading of the word h uncerlain, it is prolxtbly an Arabic cumiption of MifX"*^* machine. DAMASCUS. "The hall that is before the Western Gate (of the Mosque, called 'B&b al BaHd) has in it the shops of the greengrocers and perfume-sellers, and there is here the market where they sell flowers. At its upper end is a great gate, to which you ascend by steps, and it has columns that rise high in the air. Below the steps are two water-tanks,' round in shape, one lying to the right and one to the left Each water-tank has five spouts which pour the water into a long trough made of marble. The hall at the North Gate (of the Mosque, called BAb an Nitifiyyin) has in it a chapel (Z^wiyaA) that stands on a platform, which is set round with a wooden lattice, and it serves as a house for the school-teachers. To the right, in going out of the hall, is a Cloister {Khanikah) built for the Sufis. In its midst is a < istcrn. They say this Cloister was of old the palaf e of the Khalif 'Omar ibn 'Ahd al Aziz ; hut we shall return to this matter later. The cistern in the centre of the Cloister has water running through it, and there are here latrines with running water in the cells. On the right hand as you go out (of the Great Mosijue. bv) the llaii al Barid, is the Madrasah of the Shafi'itcs. In its centre is also a cistern with water running therein, and there are likewise latrines here, with water running through them as above described. In the court (of the Great Mosque), between the cupolas aforementioned, are two columns set some distance apart, and on both are stands of brass of considerable height, and made of lattice-work, cut out in the most beautiful manner. These are lighted up on the middle night of the month of Sha'b&n, and they shine as though they were the two Pleiads. The concourse of the people of the city here on the above-named night is even greater than is seen here on the night at the close of the fittt-month of Ramad&n. There are round the Mosque four water-tanks, one on each side, and each water-tank is like a great palace set round with chambers for latrines, with water running in each. In the length of the court there is also a tank of stone, and down all its length are a number of spouts (for the ablution). One of the water-tanks aforesaid is in the hall of the Bdb JairAn, and it is the bigest of the four, and there are here over thirty chambers (for the ablu- tion). And besides this great tank there are here two large 252 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, cisterns, one lying at a distance from the other, and the circum- ference of each is about forty spans, with the water spouting in each. The second great tank is in the hall of the Bdb an N^ti- fiyyin, opposite the school The third is on your left as you go out of the Bkh al Barid ; and the fourth on your right going out of the Bab az Ziyidah. These are all of great convenience to strangers. Further, in all parts of the city are found water-tanks in all the streets and bazaars for the convenience of all comers. Of the oratories and monuments of Damascus is the shrine of the Head of John (the Baptist), the son of Zakariyyah. The head is buried in the Mosque in the south aisle, facing the right- hand comer of the Maksdrah of the Companions. There is over it an ark of wood, set round with columns, and above hangs a lamp of crystal, concave in shape, like the lid of a pot It is not known whether this is of Irak, or of Tyrian glass, or perchance it is of some other ware. " Among oihcr celehraLed sanctuaries of 1 'ainascuii is the birth- place of Ibrahim (Al)rahani). This is shown on the hillside of Jabal Kasiyun al a \ illago called Bar/ah. Barzah is a fine village, and the mountain is a blessed one from all time, for the prophets have all ascended it to jiray thereon. Jahal Kasiyun lies to the north of the city, and about a leac-ue distant. 1 he birthplace (of Abraham) i^ a cave, long and narrow, and fhey have built a mosque and a high minaret over it. Abraham used to view the stars from the ( ave, also the sun and the moon, as is mentioned in the Kuran (chapter vi,, verses 76-78). There are seventy thousand prophets buried here, and the burial-grounds Ue all round. In Jabal Kasiyftn, and lying west about a mile or more from the cave of the birthplace (of Abraham), is a cave called the Cave of Blood, because above it in the mountain is seen the blood of Abil (Abel), whom his brother Kkbi\ (Cain) slew. The mark of the blood comes down through half the mountain as a red streak, and looks tike a road in the hillside. There is a mosque here. This is the place from which Kilbil went and sought his brother to slay him» and afterwards he carried his body into the cave. Heie^ it is said, Abraham, Moses, Jesus, Lot, Job, and the Prophet (Muhammad) all made their prayers. There is a fine mosque DAMASCUS. buili uvci this placf, to which you ascend by steps. It is like a round gallery, and a tnUis-work of wood goes round it, and there are chambers licrc for visitors to sojourn in. It is opeiied -every Thursday, and lighted up, as also is the cave below. On the summit of the mountain is a cave called after Adam, and there is a building here too. Down at the foot of the mountain is the cave called the Cave of Famine, for seventy {)ro})hets died there ol hunger. They had one loaf among them, and they kept passing it from one to another, none eating of it, A mosque is built over this place. ** At the summit of the mountain, and above all the gardens, and lying west of the city, is the hill mentioned in the Kurdn (chapter xxtiL, verse 52) as the place where the Messiah dwelt with His mother. It is one of the most beautiful of places. It resembles a high castle ; you ascend to it by steps. The dwelling-place (of the Vifgin) is a small cave like a little chamber. Opposite is the place, as it is said, where Al Khidr (Elias) prayed. It has small iron gates ; also a mosque built near by, and a tank most beauti- ful to behold with the water pouring down into it The water falls over a water-wheel placed in the wall, and flows into a fine marble basin below. Behind it are latrines with running water. This hill lies above the gardens before mentioned, through which the water therefrom runs, forming brooks. The water divides into seven streams, each going its own way ; the largest of these is called Thaura. It rises above the hill, and has made a channel in ihc hard rock, forcing its way through a place like a tunnel. A stronL; swimmer t an plunge ui above, and come cnit below, swim- ming riglit under the hill. To do this, however, is very dangerous. These gardens below the hill lie in the lands to the west of the cJiy, and tht y are moNt beautiful to see. To the west of the city, also, is a cemetery, where many ( elebrated people are buried of the ( oni[)anion^ of the Prophet and others. The Alash-had called alter 'All is here. " The Tombs of the Khalifs of the Omayyads are said to be those lying opposite (the city gate called) the Bab as Saghir, close to the cemeter)- aforementioned. There is over them at the present day a building which is used for travellers to sojourn in. 254 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Among the celebrated Oratories, also, is the Masjid al Akdam (the Mosque of the Footprints). It lies at a distance of two miles from the city, and lo the south, beside of the high-road going down to the Hijja/ and Kgypt. In this Mos(]ue is a small chamhcr in which is an inscriiition, stating that a certain one of the C'ompanions saw in sleep the Prophet, who lold him that tiiis was the tomb of the brother of Moses. A hillock of red sand may l)e seen on the high-road not far from this place, and it lies between (the villages of) Ghaliyah and Ghuwailiyah. i'hc people say the light never fades from this blessed place, where is the tomb aforesaid. Now, as to the Footprints, they are on a stone in the road, with a sign-post pointing thereto, and you find a foot- mark on each stone. The number of these Footprints is nine; They are said to be the marks of Moses' feet ; but Allah alone knows the truth of this. "Damascus city has eight gates: i. Bib Sharki, the Eastern Gate. It has beside it the White Minaret (or tower), on which they say Jesus — ^peace be on Him ! — will descend when He comes in glocy ; for He will descend at the White Tower (or minaret) to the east of Damascus. 2. Mb TCodSl (Gate of St. Thomas), next the former. It also opens in the eastern quarter. 3. Bftb as Sal&mah, next thereta 4. Mb al Farftdis^ to the north. 5. Mb al Faraj, next thereto. 6. Mb an Nasr, to the west. 7. Mb al Jibiyah, likewise to the west 8. Mb as Saghir, opening to die south-west. The Great Mosque of Damascus lies somewhat in the northern part of the city. The various quarters lie all round, and are of great extent, except in the north, and in what lies to the south, where the houses cover a smaller area. The town has a long sha[)e ; its streets are narrow and dark. The houses are built of mud and reeds, one story above another, for winch reason lire catches them swiftly. They are all three stories high, and this is necessitated by the great number of the population; for there arc amassed here in Damascus the inhabitants of three towns, and it is the most populous city in the world. Its beauty is all external, not internal. There is in the city a church belong- ing to the Greeks, and by them greatly venerated. It is called Church of Mary (Kanisah Maryaai), and, except the (Church .^ .d by Google DAMASCUS, 255 at) Jerusalem, there is none other held in such esteem by them. It is finely built, and contains many wonderful pictures. The place is in the possession of the Greeks, and no one molests them therein. '* Damascus has about twenty Madrasahs (colleges), and there are here two hospitals (or Maristans)— the old and the new. The new is the larger and better built of the two. It has revenues amounting to about 15 Dinirs los.) a day. There are physicians to attend the sick, and the expenses of food and medicines are provided. The old Maristan is on a like footing, but more people go to the new. The old Mftristan is situated to the west of the Mosque. One of the finest colleges in the world is the Madrasah of NOr ad Dtn — ^Allah's mercy be on him ! In it is his tomb — ^may Allah illumine it t It is a palace among palaces. Water runs through it, and falls into a tank. There are also in the city many cloisters belonging to the Sdfls. The greatest that we saw is that known as Al Kasr, very high built, and beautiful. Damascus prjssesses a castle {Kal'ah) where the Sultan lives, and it stands isolated in the modern quarter of the city. It is close over against the gate called B3b al Faraj, and in it is (lie Sultan's Mosque. Near the castle, outside the town towards the west, are two Maidans (horse-coursesj that arc like pieces of silk-brocade rolled out, for their greenness and l>eauty. The river flows between the two Maidans, and there is a grove of poplar trees extending beside them most beautiful to behold. The Sultan is wont to go out there to play the game of Mall (.^J Sa7thi/iju/i), and to race his horses ; and nothing can be pleasanier to see than this. Every evening the Sultan "s sons go out there to shoot with the bow, and to race, and to play Mall. In Damascus, too, are nearly one hundred Hammam's ^hot-baths), both in the city and in the suburbs ; and there are nearly forty houses for ablution where water always flows ; and nowhere is there any town more convenient to the stranger. "The markets of Damascus are the finest in the world, and the best organized. Especially so are the Kais&riyyahs,* * The woid Kmsdr^fyak denotes a buaar for merchants, or a building, like a Caravanserai for the storing of merchandise^ It is derived from the Greek 256 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. which are built high like hospices, and closed by iron gates like the gates of a castle. Each KaisSriyyah stands isolated, and at night it is shut off. There is also a market called the Great Market, which extends from the Bab al Jabiyah to the Biib ash Shark i (all along the Straight Street) There is here a small house that has become a place for prayer. In the south part of it is a stone on which they say Abraham broke the idols which his father had brought to market to sell. The Palace of the Khalif 'Omar ibn 'Abd al *Azlz is to day a Cloister for the SOf Is. It stands near the Hall of the North (late (of the Great Mosque^ called Bib an N&tiiiyytn. 'Omar bought the ground, and built the palace, and ordered that he should be buried in it, and that they should recite prayers there. "And now as regards the ascent to the top of the Dome of the Great Mosque, which rises erect in the midst of the building. Verily the entrance to the same, and into the interior where is the inner dome— like a sphere within a larger sphere — is from the Mosque. We ascended thereto, with a number of friends, at early dawn, on Monday, tlie i8th day uf the 1' ir.st Jinn;'uli. We went up by a ladder in the western colonnade that gor> rounfl the cuuru at a place where had been a tower in furinci days, and walked over the flat roof of the .Mosf jiie. The roof covered with large sheets of lead (as afoieinentiuned), the length ui each sheet being 4 spans, and the wi<ltli 3 s])ans. .After i^assnig over the flat roof we came to the Dcimc, and mounted into it by a ladder set there ; and doing soil almost hapiiencd that we had all been seized with dizziness. We went into the round gangway, which is of lead, and its width is but of 6 span.s, so that we v ould not stand there, fearing to (all over. Then we hastened on to the entrance into the interio-- nf the Dome, passing through one of the grated windows whu h open in the lead-work; and before us was a wondrous sight. We [passed on over the planking of great wood beams which go all round the inner and smaller dome, which is KaKTrtpnn, in ihc hphsc of the (Vsarian (market) : and th'' word uns only in use in those .\ralj countries wiiich were t»f old subject to the Byzantine", r.,;v, .Syria, Egypt, and Morocco. In the further East — Baghdad and Per>ia— the tcfn was not employed. DAMASCUS, inside the outer I-cadcn Dome, as aforesaid, and there are here two arched windows, through which you look down into tiie Mosque below. From here the men who are down in the Mosque look as though they were small children. This dome is round like a sphere, and its structure is made of planks, strengthened with stout ribs of wood, bound with bands of iron. The ribs curve over the dome, and meet at the summit in a round circle of wood. The inner dome, which is that seen from the interior of the Mosque» is inlaid with wooden panels, set one beside the other, touching. They are all gilt in the most beautiful manner, and ornamented with colour and carving. Of these wooden panels which cover the interior of the dome, the length of each is not less than 6 spans, with a breadth of 4 spans ; but to the eye below they twinkle like points, and seem to be only one or two spans across, on account of their great height from you. The Great Leaden Dome covers this inner dome that has just been described It also is strengthened by wooden ribs bound with iron bands. The number of these ribs is forty-eight, and between each rib is a space of 4 spans: the whole most wonderfully arranged. The ribs converge above, and unite in a centrepiece of wood. The circumference of the Leaden Dome is 80 paces, which is 260 spans. Under the Double Dome is the aisle called the Eagle {An Nasr)^ stretching out, and roofed over, leading towards the MaksOrah. This part is all ceiled over, and ornamented with plaster-work, with numberless wooden beams, let in, ami with the arches hclow. The j)iers supporting the Double Dome are let into the walls. And in these wAU are .stones, each of which weighs a full Kantiir (or about 325 lbs. ), and these elephants could not move. Most wonderful is it how they were raised to their present high place, and this by human j)ower only, and how man's strength was capable thereof. '1 he lireat Double Dome rests on a circular base built of mighty blocks, above which rise short and thick pilasters built up of large stones of a very hard kind J and between every two pilasters is pierced a window. Thus the windows extend all round the circle under the dome. This Double Dome appears like one dome to the eye from below ; for the one is inside the other, and the outer dome only is of lead. 17 358 PALESTWB UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Of the wonders of the place it is that we saw no spiders in the framework of the domes, and they say there are none here at all. Ako no birds of the species of swallows ever enter the Mosque. This Dome of the Damascus Mosque is the finest in the world, except, maybe, the Dome of the Rock at Jerusalem, which is said to be the most beautiful." (I. J., 262-297.) Ibn Jubair did not, unfortunately, visit Jerusalem. Y&kdt, writing in 1225, devotes many pages of his great Geo- graphical Dictionary to the subject of Damascus. Besides the chief article, there are numberless minor notices scattered up and down the voluminous work, wherever, in the alphabetical arrange- ment, mention occurs of some one of the Damascus mosques or gates or other monuments. Much that is mentioned is copied from earlier geographers, what is new matter is epitomized in the following pages : *' Damascus," says Y^kftt, "called Dimishk, or Dimashk, is the capital of Syria, and it is the Garden of the Eanh. The city was, some say, so called because it was said JOtmasAM, 'they hastened,' in its building. Damascus is sometimes referred to in poetry by the name Jillik. According to some this is the name of all the districts taken together of the Ghaulah. According to others, Jillik is the name of n certain village in the Ghautah, where, it is said, there was the statue of a woman, from wliich water poured forth; or else again Jillik is the City of Damascus itself." (V'ak., ii. 104 ; Mar., i. 261.) " Damascus was founded by Dimashik, son of Kani, great-grand- son of Sam (Shem), son of Nfih, or some say by Buyfttasf. It was founded at the end of the year 3145 of the Creation. The age of the world is, they say, to be of 7,000 years. Abraham the Friend, was born five years after its founding. Others say Damascus was built by Jairfin ibn Sa'ad ibn 'Ad, grandson of Shem, who called it Iram dhat al 'AmOd (Iram of the Columns). The pro- phet HQd dwelt here, and he built the wall to the south of the Jimi' Mos(|ue. Another tradition is that Al 'Azar, Abraham's servant, built Damascus. By another tradition Dimashik, Filastin (Palestine), Ailiyi (i4£lia, Jerusalem), Hims and Al Urdunn (the Jordan), were all sons of Iram, son of Shem, son of Noah. DAMASCUS. 259 " Adam, they say, lived at Bait Anit, and Eve at Bait Lihy4 ; Abel (Hdbil) at MukA with his flocks, and Cain (Kabil)at Kantnah in the midst of his fields. Alt these places lie round Damascus. At the place in the Jibni' Mosque, now occupied by the gate called the Bib as Si'&t, is a large stone, whereon in ancient days Cain and Abel laid their offerings. If these were accepted (of the Lord) Are was wont to descend to consume them, but if they were not acceptable (the offerings) remained untouched. Now Abel had come with a fot ram of his flock, and he placed it on the stone, and the Are came down and burnt it up. Then came Cain, with wheat of his crops, and placed it also on the stone, but it remained in its (unbumt) condition. So Cain envied his brother, and he followed him to t!ie mountain, which overlooks the plain of Damascus, and is now known as Jabal Kasiyun ; and he wished to slay him, hut did not know how to accomplish the deed. Then Iblis (Satan) came to him, and took up a stone and began to »itrike his head therewith. And when (Cain) saw this, he took a stone and struck therewith the head of his brother Al)el, and thus slew him there on Jabal Kasiyfin. I, Vakflt, have seen there a stone on which was a mark like blood, and the people ol" Syria say that this is the stone witli which Cain slew Abel, and that this red mark that is on it is the mark of Abel's blood. In front of the stone is a cave, which is good to visit It is called the Cave of the Blood from this reason ; and I, myself, have made visitation there, on the slope of the mountain called Jabal KasiyCin. Ac- cording to some, Damascus was the site of Noah's dwelling-place, and he took the wood for the ark from the Lebanon "NTountains. Further, he entered into the ark at the place called 'Ain al Jarr, of the Biki' District. Some say that Abraham, too, was born at a village in the Ghautah of Damascus, called Barzah, lying in the Jabal K&siyOn. According to a tradition of the Prophet, Jesus — peace be on Him! — will descend (on the Last Day) upon the White Minaret to the eabt of Damascus, which is in the Mosque beside the Eastern Gate, called Bab ash Sharki. Wonderful is the water-supply of Damascus, and the public fountains are innumerable. The suburbs without the walls arc equal to the town itself in extent Damascus was first conquered 17 — 2 26o PALEbllNE L SDEk i HE MOSLEMS. in the month Rajab of the year 14. Kh&lid stoimed through the Eastern Gate, and met Abu 'Ubatdah, who had made a capitula* tion with the inhabitants, and had entered the city in company with the other commanders through the three Western Gates of the city. The Mosque of Damascus verily is the most beautiful building in the world. It was built by the Khalif al Walld ibn 'Abd al Malik, who was much addicted to the building of mosques. The building was begun in the year 87, or 88 as some say. Now, when it was Al Walid's intention to build it, the Khalif brought together the Christians of Damascus, and said to them, * We wish to increase our Mostjuc by your Churcli. that is to say, the Church of Yuhanna (John), and wc will give you another rhurch where- soever yc will ; or if yc will, we will double you what wvmld be the price of the land.' But the Christians refused, and they l)rought the Treaty of Khalid ibn al Walid, and the promise (he had given them). And they said further : * Verily, we have found in our books that if any demolish this (Church) he shall ( hoke to death.' Then cried out Al Walid unto them : ' i am he who will be the first to demolish it !' And standing up, he began to demolish the yellow cupola which was above the jilace where he sat, and the Muslims round him did the like. Thus the Khalif increased the size of the Mosque as he had desired. And so much material was gathered together for the building that it was impossible to use it all, and the expenditure of monies was thus lightened unto him. The Khalif al Walid built four gates to the Mosque. To its east, Bab Jairdn ; to its west, Mb al Bartd ; to its south, Bib az Ziyddah ; with the B&b an NitiiSMiiyyin (or Gate of the Syrup- sellers) lying opposite thereto. And the Bib al Faridis (the Gate of the Gardens) was in the hinder part to the south. "Ghaith ibn 'Ali al Atmanizt relates that Al Waltd ordered them to search down in the fosse for the ancient foundation of the walls of the original building. And while they were digging they discovered a wall of masonry running in the direction of the fosse and along it They reported to Al Walld of this, and informed him of the solidity of the masonry of this wall, asking for permis- sion to build (the Mosque wall) upon it. But the Khalif answered : * I should a^jrcc thereto were 1 indeed assured in the matter of the DAMASCUS. 36r solidity thereof and of the firmness of its foundations ; only I cannot be convinced of the solidity of this wall until ye have dug down along its face till ye reach moisture. If then it be found still firmly based, I am content that ye build on it, otlKTwisc leave it side.' So they dug on dcnui along the face of the wall, and found a gate, over which was a slab of granite, on which was cut an inscription. Every endeavour was made to get this read, till one was found who told thcni that the writing was in thedreek tongue. Now the inter})rttation of this inscnptiun, which wa.s on the face of the (slab) was as follows : AJkr the world haih renewed its youths the si^^ns hariti;^ heen manifested of what is to a>nit' to pass, it is necessary there he a reneuml thereof ; even as hare foretold those a^ed in life and stricken in years. A nd the ivorship of the Creator of created things shall he instituted here^ wlen the lovtr of horses eommands the building of this Temple of his awn ttionies ; and this shall he after the passing of seven thousand and nine hundred years since the days of the People of the Column, And if the buihier live to enter therein^ the building wUl h named as the hest of acts. And io to ye all^ Peace / ** Now the ' People of the Columns ' {^Ahl al Usttewdn) were a sect of the ancient philosophers who lived of old at Ba'albakk. **They relate that Al Waltd spent on the building (of the Mosque) the revenues of the Empire for seven years. And when they brought him the accounts of what had been spent on it, carried on the backs of ten camels, he ordered that all should be burnt, and would not look at any of them, saying : 'These sums we have laid out for Allah's sake, and verily we will not take any count of them.' Of the wonders of the Mosque it may be told that if a man were to sojourn here a hundred years, and pondered each day on what he saw, he would see every day something he had not seen in former days, namely, of the beauty of the work- manship and choice things set here. They relate that the total of tile pru e of the cabbages that the workmen ate (during the building) was 6,000 Dinars {/S?i^ooo). Now at one time the people murmured at the great hums that the Khalif expended, saying that he had taken the public treasure of the Muslims, and liad 262 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, spent it on what was not worthy of the spending, ^fhen the Khalif went into the pulpit of the Mosque, and spake to them, saying, ' It hath come to mc that ye say so and such things ; now verily in your Treasury there is a sum equivalent to eighteen years' revenue, lo which ye have nunc of you contributed a single grain of corn.' And ilic people kept silence hercafttr, and said naught. It is said the work lasted nine years, and that during this tune 10,000 men worked daily at the cutting of marble. There were (in the Mosque) 600 chains of goUl. W hen the whole was finished A! Walid ordered that it should Ik* roofed with lead. And they brought lead from all lands to aeroniplisli this, but at the last a piece (of the roofing) remained, for whi( h they c ould find no lead, e.vcept some that belongetl to a certain woman, and she refused to sell it except for its weight in gold. And the Khalif commanded them to buy it of her, even though it were (at the price of) double the weight in gold. And the)- did so. But when she was to receive the price, she said : ' \'erily I had imagined our master was a t\'mnt in accomplishing this, his building ; but now I have seen his justice, and I bear witness to you before Allah of the same.' And she returned to them the price. When Al Walid knew of this he commanded that they should inscribe on the (lead) plates which she had given, the words, * This hehngs to AUah^ ordering further that they should not set them among those that bore his name. It is said they spent on the ornament of the Vine, that is on the Kiblah side of the Mosque, 70,000 D!ndrs (;f35»ooo). " MOsft ihn HammiUl al Barbari relates that he saw in the Mosque of Damascus an inscription in gold on the glass (of the wmdow), where was written the Chapter (cil of the Kur&n), being the words, *The desire of increasing riches occupieth you, till ye come to the grave,' with the verses that follow down to the end of the chapter. And he saw a red jewel that was set in the letter K that formed part of the word A I Makabir (' the grave'), one of the words of that \erse of the Kuran, and he inquired the reason thereof. It was told him that Al \\ alid had a daughter to whom this jewel had belonged, and that when she died, her mother had ordered that this jewel should be buried with DAMASCUS, her in her grave. But the Rhalif gave command on the matter, and they set it in the K of the word Makdbir of the verse afore- said. And he aften^ards assured the girl's mother that he had set it in * the grave,' and she was confounded and silent when she saw had been done. A certain writer of past times states that the Mosque was originally built with two rows, of marble columns, one above the other, the lower row being lai^ columns, and those above being smaller; and the space between the two rows was filled by pictures representing every town and tree in the world in Mosaic of gold and green and yellow. Over the Kiblah side of the Mosque is the dome called Kubbat an Nasr (the Eagle's Dome), and there is nothing in all Damascus finer or higher than the sight to be obtained from it. Now the Mosque of Damascus continued in the splendour and magnificence we have described until there befell the fire of the year 461 (1069), when much of its beauty was destroyed. "Of old times, when 'Omar ibn 'Abd al Aziz came to the Khalifatc (in the year 717 a.d.), he said: 'I consider the wealth that is in the Mosque at Damascus to be of excess, and if it were expended on other matters it would be more fitting. Verily, that which may be spared should be taken and returned to the public treasury. And I will strip ofl" these marbles and mosaics, atui I Will lake away these chains, setting in their stead ropes.' Nowtlie people of Damascus were greatly perturbed thereat ; and at this same time it so happened that there arrived at Damascus ten ambassadors from the kinL' of the l iieeKS, and they begged i)er- mission to enter and visit the Mosque, i'cnnission was granted them to enter by the Bah al Barid, and a certain attendant was sent to aceompany them who knew their tongue, in order to listen to their words, and report what they should say to 'Omar, they knowing nothing thereof. The envoys passed through the court until they came in front of the Kiblah, and they raised their eyes to look at the Mosque. Then their ( hief began to hang his head, and his colour became yellow, and when his companions inquired of him the reason, he replied, ' Verily, I had told the assemblies of the people of Kdmiyyah (Byzantium) that the Arabs and their power would remain but a brief space ; but now, when I see what 264 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. they have built, I know that of a surety their (dominion) will reach to length of days.' ^Vhen 'Omar heard report of this, he said, * I now perceive that this your Mosque is a source of rage to the infidels,' and he desisted from doing what he had intended therein. And 'Omar had before this studded the Mihr&b with jewels of great price, and he afterwards hung up here lamps both of gold and of silver. ** In the Jdmi* Mosque is the chapel (Z&wiyah) of Al Khidr (Elias). There is also preserved here the head of Yahy& ibn Zakariy}'i (John the Baptist), also the Kur&n of 'Othman the Khalif. According to some, the Prophet HAd is buried here ; but of this there is question. Under the great dome of the Rubbat an Nasr are two columns of variegated-coloured marble, which they say are of the Tabernacle of Bilkis (Queen of Sheba); but Allah alone knows best the truth. The western minaret of the Mosque is that where Al Ghazsali (the great theo- logian) used to ])ray. They say this minaret was of old a fire- temple, and ihat a llainc of fire rose from it iiUo the air. The ancient ]>eople of the Hainan made their warship here. The eastern innuiicl iscallcd Al Manarahal liauia (i!ic White Mm. act), and upon it they say that Jes.us, Son of Mary— peace he upon Him I— will descend (at the Judgment Hay).* There is shown here a stone which ihevsavis n fragment of tlie nu k which Moses struck, and from which there tlowcd forth twehe springs. 1 liey relate further, tliat the minaret on which Jesus peace 1)0 upon Him! — will descend is that which stands near the Kanisah Mary^m (Mary Church) at Damascus. In the (court of the) Mosque, the western cupola, known as the Treasury, is, they say, the tomb of 'Ayishah (the wife of the Prophet) : but her tomb is in reality at the Baki' Cemetery (at Al Madinah). At the soudi gate of the Jami', called the Bfib az Ziyadah, is huni: up a piece of a lance, said to have been that of Khalid ibn Al Walid. At Damascus, also, are the tombs of Mahml^d ibn Zanki ; also of Saladin, namely, in the Kallasah Mosque near the Jdmi' (besides many others too numerous to mention)." (Y4k., ii. 587-597.) The story of the complaint laid before the Khalif 'Omar ibn * The same tradition is given of (he minaret ftt the eftslcni citygate. See pp. 254, 259. DAMASCUS, 'Abd al 'Aziz by the Christians of Damascus (see above, p. 260) is somewhat differently related in the Chronicle of Ibn al Athin He writes : ' " When 'Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz came to be Khalif, the Chris- tians complained to him of the wrong done to them ; but the Khalif retorted on them, ' Most certainly what lay outside the city was taken by assault, and yet we gave back to you one of your churches there. We will, therefore, now destroy the church of Tdmi (St. Thomas), for was it not taken by assault ? and we will turn it into a mosque.' Then the Christians answered him, * Nay, mther in fear of this, we give up to thee the great Mosque, and do thou leave us in peaceful possession of the church of T(im&.''' (Ibn al Athir, v. 5.) Dimashki, writiriL: al)t)iil tlu- year 1300, l\as the f'uUuvving : ** naniasciis is called also Jillik and Al Khadra (the green), and Dhat al 'Amud (the Columned). The niosquc here is one of the wonders of the world. On the middle ni^ht of the month of Sha'aban they light in it twelve thousand lamps, and burn fitly fJamascus Kintar^ weight nf olivc-oil, and this not counting what is consumed in the other edifices, such as the coilei^es, mosques, tombs, convents, cloisters, and hospitals. The walls of the Moscjue are faced with marble after the most exquisite manner ever seen, and above are mosaics in coloured glass and gold and silver. The length of the Moscjue from east to west is 2S2 elK and the width is 220 (or 210) ells. The roof is covered with sheets of lead. Damascus consists in reality of three towns. First there come the palaces^ gardens, and orchards in the GhQtah, sufficient to form a laige town by themselves ; then, second, are the tmderground water-courses ; and third, the houses of the city itself. I'he gardens of Damascus number one hundred and twenty-one thousand ; all are watered by a single river which comes down from the country near Az Zabadlni, and the Wkdl Bamdi. The springs coming down from the heights above the Wadt and the waters from the 'Ain al Fljah come together and form a single river called the BaradS, which below divides into seven streams, each called by its own name. ''The first is the Nahr Yaztd, which was dug by the Khalif a66 PALESTINE IJNDER THE MOSLEMS. Yazid ibn Mu'awiyah, and called after him. The second is the Nahr Ttiaurah, which was duu by one of the kings of the Greeks of that name. The third is tlic Nahr Balniyas (or Hands), dug by Haliiiyas (Pliny) the Greek philosopher, and called after him. The fourth is the Nahr al Kanawdt (of the Water-conduits). These tast two flow to the outer districts of the city, and there divide up into small water-courses and underground channels serving the baths and places for ablution. The fifth is the Nahr Mtzzah, being called after the village of Al Mizzah, which is also called Al Manazzah (meaning the Pure), on account of the salubrity of its climate, the purity of its water, the beauty of its palaces, the excellence of its fruits, and the abundance of its roses and other flowers. It is here they make the celebrated rose-water of Damascus; and this rose-water of Al Mizzah is exported to all the countries of the South, such as the Hijjiz, and beyond to India and China. As an example of the price this rose-water fetches in the market, it is reported that the chief KSd! of the Hanifites, with his brother Al Hariri, possessed a plot of land called Sliaur a/ Zahr (tiic I'lowcr-garland) inuasunnL; i lojjaces by 75, and llicy sold of its c rop 20 Kintars-wciglit (ot rose-leaves) for 22,000 Dirhams (or about 6,500 lbs. tor ^'SSo) in the year 665 (1267) ; but nothing equal to this has been heard of ^ince. The sixth river is the Nahr Darayya: its upper course is an affluent (of tiic Barada), and below, it divides (tVoni the barada again). Darayya is a village with very ri( h rrn^.s and lands. There are here the tombs of Abu Muslim al Khaulani, and of Abu Sulaiman ad Darani. 'I'he seventh river is the Barada itself, the main stream of which runs down the bed of the Wadi. It receives aflluents in its upper course, and below there branch from it all the six abovementioned rivers; and these rivers again divide up into channels and water-courses that irrigate all the lands of the Ghiitah, so that there is no part of its territory where the water does not attain. The irrigation continues night and day, and according to flxed measures and lines, and the volume of water neither increases nor decreases. The main stream of the Barada continues on eastward of the city, watering villages and domains and lands, both fertile and barren, till if ultimately DAMASCUS. 267 falls into tht: lake lo the east of Damascus in the district of 'Adhra, in which arc many reeds. Another river (of Damascus) is called Al A waj, and it also falls into this same lake. It becomes a large river at the time of the melting of the snows, when many small streams join it.'' (Dim., 193-198.) Abu-1 Fida, writing a few years after Dimashki, gives the follow- ing description of the lake lying to the east of Damascus, into which the rivers drain: Buhairah Dimashk (the lake of Damascus) lies to the west, or rather north-west, of. the city in the Ghautah ; the overflow of the Baradd, and of the other streams^ falls into it. In the winter this lake spreads out, so that the people (on its banks) have no need to use the irrigation-canals ; in the summer the waters shrink up. It has lowlands full of reeds, which form a useful and cele- brated hiding-place from the enemy." (A. F. 40.) The same author continues : Muhallabi says that he found on one of the pilkirs of the Mosque at Damascus an inscription, which set forth the following : DAmaskiyih buiit iMs House io the God of Gods Ziy&sh. And he adds, D&maskiyQs is the name of the king who built the city, and ZiyAsh (Zeus) is translated into Arabic by Al Mushtari (Jupiter)." (A. F., 230.) The traveller Ibn Hatutah spent some months in Damascus (laruig the )car 1326. He gives in his Diar) a long description of the city and it^ chief monuments, inserting copious quotations from Ibn Jubair and previous writers. The more important passages only are here translated, and these show us what the Mosque was in the tburteenth century, just before its destruction by fire at the time of l iniur s eomjuest : "The Mosque of Damascus was first l)uilt by Al Wnlid ibn 'Abd al Malik, and artificers were sent from the King of Ar Rfim for the purpose. Originally it was a church, which the Muslims took from the Christians by force. The Mosque was ornamented with mosaics in gold, and in various colours, called Fusaifasah, The length of the Mosque from east to west is 200 paces, which is 300 ells ; its width from the Kiblah to the north side is 135 paces, or 200 ells. Of windows of coloured glass there are to the number of seventy-four to be seen. The Main-building oi 368 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, the Mosque consists of three naves, going from east to west, and the width of each nave, is i8 paces. The naves are supported by fifty-four pillars, and by eight piers of plaster-work set in between ; also by six piers of marble, which are of various colours, and have on them representations of prayer-niches of divers sorts. Above the building rises the I^d Dome (JCulfhat ar Rasiu\ which stands before the Mihrlb. It is also called Kubbat an Nasr, the Eagle's Dome ; for it is as though they likened the Mosque in plan to a flying eagle, the dome being its head. This is one of the most wonderful constructions in the world. On whatever side you approach the city you see the Dome of the Eagle, as it were, in the air, soaring above all the other buildings of the city. "Round the Court of the Mosque are three colonnades — namely, to west, and to east, and- to north. The width of each of these colonnades is lo paces. There are in (each of) these (colonnades) thirty-three columns and fourteen piers. The width of the courtyard is loo ells. It is one of the pleasantest places to see, and the people of the city meet here to talk and walk of an evening. In the court are three cupolas. The cupola to the west is the largest ; it is called Kubbat 'Ayishah (the Dome of 'Ayishaii), the Mother uf the Faithful. It is .sui)i)orted by eight nKU"blc colunnis, which arc ornamented with mosaic work in \ ari()us cohnirs. The dume itself is covered witli lead. Tiiey say the revenues of the Mos()ue used to be kept there. I'hcy told me, further, that the revenues of the corn-lands, and that derived from other possessions of the Mosque, amounted yearly to 20,000 gold Dinars (;^io,ooo). The second cupola lies in the eastern part of the Mosque court. It is similar to the first, but smaller. It is supported by eight marble colunms, and is called the Kubbat of Zain al 'Abidin. The third cupola is in the centre of the court- yard. It is small and octagonal, of marble and very wonderfully built. It is supported on four pillars of white marble. Below it is a grating of iron, in the middle of which is a spout of brass from which comes water, throwing itself out like a silver rod. They call this the Water Cage {Kafs al MA), and the people are fond of putting their mouths thereto to drink of its water. To the east of the courtyard is a gate which leads into a beautiful DAMASCUS. 269 mosque called Mash-had 'Ali Ibn Abu Talib — may Allah accept him I Opposite this, on the west side (of the courtyard) where the two colonnades, the northern and the western, meet together, is a place where they say 'Ayishah was wont to recite the traditions of the Prophet. *' In the southern pari of the Mosque is the Great MaksArah in which the Imam (or Leader of Prayer) of the Shafi'ites officiates. In its eastern angle, and opposite the Mihrab, is the Treasury, where is kept the copy of the Kurdn which was sent to Damascus, having belonged to the Khalif 'Othman. This building is opened every Friday after the hour of prayer, and the people crowd here to see it. To the left of the Maksiirah is the Mihiib of the Companions (of the Prophet), which the historians say was the first Mihrftb erected in Islam. Here the ImSm of the Malikites officiates. To the right of the Maksfiiah is the Mihrib of the Hanifites where their Im&m officiates. Adjacent to this, again, is the Mihrflb of the Hanbalites where their Imam officiates. The Mosque has three minarets. The one to the east was built originally by the Gieeks. The entrance to it is from inside the Mosque. In its basement are the cells for ablution where those attached to the Mosque are wont to go. The second minaret, which is that on the west, is also of the building of the Greeks. The third minaret is on the north side, and this minaret was built by the Muslims. There are attached to the Mosque seventy Criers, to VidyQT {Muadhdhin). In the eastern part of the Mos(jue is a large Maksurah (or place raiLd off ), wherein is a ( istern of water. It belongs to the people of Zaila' (on the Red Sea), who are negroes. "In the middle of the Mosque is the tomb of Zakarivva (Zacharias, father of John the Jiaj»iist) — peace he upon him ! There is here a cenotaph placed crosswise l)etween two < olumns, which is covered with a black silk cloth, on which is embroidered in white letters the word-. : O Zakariyya^ verily 7i*e annoume to thee {Jhe btPth of) a son— his name shall be John {Yahya). (Kuran, xix. 7.) They say the southern (outer) wall of the Mostjue was built by the Prophet HQd — ^peace be upon him !— and that his tomb is there. 1 saw it, however, again at a place in Yaman in Arabia. 370 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, " The Moscjue has four gates. The southern gate is called BAb az Ziyadah. Above it is kept a piece of the lance which bore . Khftlid ibn al W'aHd's standard. This gate has a great hall before it, in which are the shops of the old-ironware merchants and others. From thence you go to the Cavalry House (ZMr a/ Khail). To the left, as you go out (of the BAb az Ziyidah), are the shops of the coppersmiths. This is their gteat bazaar, and it extends all along the southern otiter wall of the Mosque, and is one of the finest bazaars in Damascus. "Where this bazaar now # stands was formerly the Palace of the Khalif Mu*&wiyah, and the houses of his people. This palace was called Al Khadrft. The Abbasides pulled it down, and turned the place where it stood into a bazaar. The east gate of the Mosque is the greatest of all the gates. It is called Bab JairCin. It has a great hall before it, from which you go out into a long and splendid colonnade, in the front part of which are five gates, each of which has five high columns. On the It-ft of this (colonnade) is a great Mash-had (oratory), in wliich was kept the head of Al Husain ; and opposite thereto is a small moscjuc, called by the name of tlic Khalif "Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz. Here there is running water. In front of the colonnade are steps by which you descend io the hull. This last is like a great fosse, adjacent to which is a very high gateway, which is supported by columns (as large as) huge palm-trunks. On either side of this hall, loo, are columns. Aliove and on the top of these is a gallery gomg all round about, in which are the stalls of the cloth merchants and others. Above these, again, are galleries in which are the shops of the jewellers and book-sellers, and the makers of the wonderful glass vessels. In the open square adjacent to the first gate are the stalls of the chief notaries. Of these stalls two belong to the Shafi'ites, and the rest to the notaries of the other three orthodox sects. Every stall holds five or six notaries, and those who are deputed by the KUdt (judge) to solemnize marriages. The rest of the notaries live elsewhere in the town. Near these stalls is the Bazaar of the Paper-makers^ where they sell writing-paper and pens, reeds and ink. In the middle of the hall aforementioned is a large round marble tank, over which is a dome (pierced in the centre, and) open to the DAMASCUS. 271 sky, which is supported on marble columns. In the centre of the tank is a brass spout, from which is thrown up a column of water into the air for higher than a man's lieight. This is called the Fountain {Al Fawwarah\ and is very wonderful to see. *'To the right hand going out of the Bal) JairOn, which is also called the Bftb as S&'4t, is a gallery, in which is a great arch. Under this is a row of smaller arches, in which open doors eqtial in number to the hours of the day. The doors are coloured on the inside green, and on the outside yellow. When one hour of the day has elapsed, the inner side, which is green, turns round and shows outside ; while the green (that was liefore) outside is (now) within. They say that on the inside of the gallery there is someone who attends to turning these doors round with his hand when each hour has elapsed. *' The western gate (of the Mosque) is called the B&b al Barid. To the right hand as you go out by it is the Madrasah of the Shafi'ites. This gate has a hall, in which are the shops of the chandlers and the booths of the fniit>sellers. Above it is a door to which you ascend by stc])s, and this door has high columns (before it). Below the steps, to right and to left, are two basins of water that are circular in shape. The northern gate of the Mosque is called Bab an Natifdniyyin (the Gate of the Sweetmeat sellers). On the right hand as you go out by it i.-> ihe Cluister {^Khanikali) called :\sli Sluimi aniyyah, in the centre of whii h is a watcr-ci^lern, and a place for the ablution served by running water. They say this was of old the Talai e of the Khalif 'Omar ibn ^\bd al "Aziz, At every one of the abovcmentioned four gates of the Mosque are places for the ablution, in which altogether are bome hundred cells, with running water in plenty in each. "Of other places worthy of note are the Dar al Khilaljah (the House of the Friday Sermon), which you enter by the Iron Clate opposite the Maksfirah. i his was the gate through which Mu'awiyah used to pass (to his Palace of the Khadni). The chief K^di lives here now. Among the sanctuaries we must mention the Mash- hads (or oratories) of '.\li and Al Husain, the Mosque Al Kalldsah, and the Mash-hads of Abu Bakr, 'Omar, and 'Othman. The city gates of Damascus are eight in number. 27? PALESTINE, UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Among these are B^b al Farftdis, B&b a1 Jahiynh, B^b as Saghir ; and between the two last lies the spot where are seen many tombs of the Companions and others, also the tomb of the Rhalif Mu awiyah, and of Bilal (the Prophet's Crier to Prayer), ai.d of Ra'ab al Ahbar. At the opposite side to the Bah jahiyah is the Bab Sharki, the eastern gate, with the cemetery lying beyond." Amonj^f other places menlionetl by Ibn Batutah are As Salihiyyah, the northern subiirl), under fabal KasiyAn. Also the Tomb of Dhu-l Kitl, the prophet, and the ('a\e of the Blood of Al)el ; also Ar Rabwah (the Hill) behind Jabal Kasiyfln, which was the habi- tation of Mary and of Jesus. '' There is a beautiful view from here," he says, "as also from the Orator)' of Al Khidr. The village of An Nairab lies at the foot of '1 he Hill, Ar Ribwah. Ai Mizzah, ( ailed also Mizzah of Kalb, after the tribe of Kalb ibn Wabrah, lies to the south of Nairab." (I. B., i. 198*236.) The Great Mosque at Damascus (as Yak£tt mentions* see above, p. 263) must have been seriously damaged by the fire which took place there in the year 1069, during a riot between the Fatimites and the Shi'ahs. It was, however, shortly afterwards restored, and such as the building then was, we have it described in the diaries of the two travellers, Ibn Jubaij[ (11B5), and Ibn Batatah (1355). In the year 1400 the great conqueror Timur-Leng took possession of I>amascus, and during the Mongol occupation of the city the (vreat Mosque was set on fire and burnt almost to the ground. The historian Abu-1 Mah^in says the fire was actually lighted by Timur's orders ; Ibn Khaldtin, on the other hand, asserts that the mishap occurred during the taking of the city by assault ; while the author of the Za/ar Netmah assures us that the fire was accidental, and that Timur made every possible effort, but in \n?n, to have it extinguished. In Timurs camp at this time was tlu celebrated Bavarian traveller Schiltlxryer. The account of his voyages has been published by the Hakluyt Society, and from his pages the following quotation, giving some account of the fire, is of imiiortance, as being the testimony of an eye witness, though one much prejudiced atjainst Timur : "Then Tamerlin stormed the City (of Damascus), and look 11 by assault. And now boon after he had taken the City, came to DAMASCUS, m him the (ieit, ihat is as much as to say a Bishop, and fell at his feet, and begged mercy for himself and his priests. Tamerlin ordered that he should go with his priests into the Temple (mean- ing the Great Mosque); so the priests took their wives, their children, and ir nm' others, into the Temple for protection, until there were thirty thousand young and old. Now Tamerlin gave orders that when the Temple was full, the people inside should be shut up in it This was done. Then wood was placed around the Temple^ and he ordered it to be ignited, and they all perished in the Temple.** (From Tke Bond^ end TVavds 0/ Johann Sekil^erger, 1396 to 1427, p. 23; Hakluyt Sodety's publica- tions.) iS CHAPTER VII. LEGENDS AND MARVELS, Ar RaUm and the Cave of the SXet^m—Zugkar (Zoar, Seeor)t the Cities Lo', and the Legend of Lot's daughters— ^/ A^//and the Wei! of ihe Leaf— Urint and the Ancient Temple—'.^/// a! Jiirah and the Menhir— lia ullKikk axxA the (Jreat Stones — Bait /.a/iin ( I'dhleheni) and the Basilica of Constantinc — An NthiraJi (Na/areth) and the Womlerful Tree. AR RAKtM AND THE CAVE OF THE SLEEPERS. The story of *'The Companions of the Cave" is one that from earliest times has proved a favourite with the Muslims. This probably was in the beginning due to the fact that the Prophet had used the incidents eonnerted with the legend of the Seven Sloe]>ers of Ej)hesiis to illustrate one of the didactic chapters of the Kuran. The Christian legend will he found related at lenijlh in tlie Ada Sanctorum of the Bollandists, utider date of July 27 (Tomiis vi., P* 375 > ^' ■Sf/>/ff/i Dorniiaiiibus). Briefly, the account there given is, that in the year 250 a.d., during the reign of the Emperor Decius, there lived at Ephesus seven young men, brothers, and ardent Evangelists, whose names, as recorded in the Roman martyrology, were Maxtmilianus, Marcus, Martinianus, Dionystus, John, Serapion, and Constantinus. In order to escape the persecution then directed against the Chris- tians, these youths hid themselves in a cave in Mount Cselian. On being discovered by their persecutors they were walled up in the cave, and there took sleep in the Lord. In the year 470, in the days of the Emperor Theodosius, their bodies were discovered, and ultimately were brought to the Church of St. Victor, at Marseilles, where they now lie. The legend was apparently of Syrian origin. It has given its LEGENDS AND MARVELS, 27$ name to the eighteenth chapter of the Kurin, of which the following verses are the most important : " Verst; 8. Hast thou reflected that the inmates of the Cave and of Ar Rakim were one of our woiulrtnis sit^ns? *' J^rsf f). When the youths betook tliem to the cave they said, ' O, our Lord I grant us mercy from before Thee, and order for us our affair aright.' " Ferse lo. Then struck we upon their ears (with deafness) in the cave for many a year. . . . " Ferse 16. And thou mightest have seen the sun when it arose, pas^ (m the right of their cave, and when it set, leave them on the left, while they were in its spacious chamber. yerse 17, And thou wouldst have deemed them awake, though they were sleeping ; and we turned them to the right and to the left. And in the entry lay their dog with paws outstretched. Hadst thou come suddenly upon them, thou wouldst surely have turned thy back on them in flight, and have been filled with fear at them. " yerse 18. So we awaked them that they might question one another. Said one of them, 'How long have ye tarried here?' . . . They said, ' Your Lord knoweth best how long ye have tarried ; send now one of you with this your coin into the city, and let him mark who therein hath purest food, and from him let him bring you a supply ; and let him be courteous, and not discover you to anyone. ** Ferse 19. 'For they, if they find you out, will stone you or turn you back to their faith, and in that case it will fare ill with you for ever.* " yrrs€ 20. And thus we made their adventure known to (their fellow-citizens), that they might learn that the promise of (lod is true. . . . " yirrse 21. Some say, they were three; their dog the fourth ; others say, five ; their dog the sixth; guessing at the secret ; others say, seven ; their dog the eighth. . . . " I c r-i' 24. And they tarried in their Cave three hundred years, and nine years over."* • Quole'l from the Rev. J. Nf. Ro lwell's translation of the Kuian. Arrord- ing to the Onistian tradition, the youths entered the cave under the I'mpt-rnr Decius and awoke in the days ut Theodosius. TUis gives some 220 yea: &, which docs not agree with the 309 years of the Kurfin. x8— 2 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Scattered up and down the volumes of Yakut's great Geo- graphical Dictionary, under various headings, are many curious details relating to the legend of the Seven Sleepers, and these may with advantage be brought together for purposes of com* parison with accounts, derived from other early Muslim writers, of reported visits to the Cave. Starting with the verses of the Kur&n, before quoted, where the Cave and Ar Raktm are mentioned, the Muslims were much exercised in their minds as to what signification should be attached to the word Ar JSaMm, According to one account (Yikiit, ii. 805), Ar Rakim was said to be ** a tablet of lead on which were in- scribed the names of the Men of the Cave, and thetr history, and the date of their flight." The authority of the great traditionist, Ibn 'AbblU, is, on the same page, given in support of the view that Ar Raktm was the name of the Cave, which, it is further stated, "lay between 'AmOriyyah (Amorium) and Nikiyah (Nicx'a). being ten or eleven days' journey from Tarsus." " Other authori- ties, however," says Yikftt, "hold Ar Raktm to be either the name of the Village where the youths lived, or of the mountain in >vhi( h the Cave was to be found." " Or," .sa) S ^'akut, in another artic le, ''Jairain is said to be the name of the Cave of the i^leepers." (Yak., ii. 175.) The same Ibn 'Abbds (^'ak., ii. 805) further states that the names of the Seven Sleepers were these : " Yamlikha (Jamblichus), Maksimilind (Maxiniilianus), Mashilind (Marcelliis ?), Martiinfls (Martianus), Dabriyus (Dionysius? or Demetrius?), SirabiyQn (Serapion), and Afastatiyus (Exustadianus ?). Tiie name of their dog being Kitmir, and of the king from whom they fled Dakiyinils (Uecianus, a mistake for Decius)." The name of their city is given very correctly (Yak., ii. 806) as Afasfis (Ephesus) ; Ar Rakim being here mentioned as the name of the Cave, and Ar Rass the name of the Village where the youths dwelt. In a previous article, how- ever (Y'ak., i, 91), we find another spelling : " Abasfts, a ^ruined city of the couiitry of the Greeks, from which the Companions of the Cave came. It is said to be the City of Dakiyinfis, and it lies near Abulustain. There are many wonderful remains here.'* Two pages further on (Y&k., i. 93) Abulustain is given as "9 LEGENDS AND MARVELS, 277 celebrated city in the Greek countiy, near to which is Ar Rakim." Abulustam, near Ephesus, i$. the place at the present day called Al Bust&n. Ykkdt apparendy has taken this notice of Abulastain from 'Ali of Herat» for a similar account is to be found in his work. (A. H.» Oxf. MS., folio 86 v.) In the last volume of Y&kQt (iv. 1040), "YanjalOs*' (evidently a Greek name) is stated to be the name of the mountain in which lay the Cave of the Sleepers, but some doubt is expressed as to where the moun- tain was situated. Besides the neighbourhood of Kphesus, Yikflt localises the legend in two other places, namely, in the trans-Jordanic Province of the Halka, and in Spam. In ihe latter country, Yakut writes (vol. ii. 125 and 806), **some say the Cave and Ar Rakirn are to be luund at Jinan al Ward (the (hardens of the Rose), in Anda- lusia, adding that Tulaitalah (Toledo) is the City of DakiyanOs — but (lod knows best. Of Ar Rakim, in the Balkn, a curious story relating to a cave to be seen there in the tenth century is given by Mukaddasi. The earliest notice of Ar Rakim, however, is found in the work of Istakhri, who wrote a generation before Mukaddasi ; his account is as follows : " Rakim or Ar Rakim is a town on the confines of the Balki^ Province. It is small, and its houses are entirely cut out in the rock. Their walls, even, arc all of the live rock, so that each appears to be of but a single block of stone." (Is., 64, copied by A K, 227.)» • Ar RaUim has often l)cen identilie i with I'ctra or W.i I? MtnA, nonr Mount Hot, on ihe hypothesis that ihe name represents the ' Arekem ' of Josephus 4*Aniiq.,* iv. 4, § 7 ; and iv. 7, § 1). This identifkAtion, however, which origiiiated with A SchttUeiu ia the lait century (see his * ViU Saladini,' Index Geognphicus, s.v. Errah'mum), an 1 has been conittantly copied by writers Hp to the present day, wa«? very justly shown to be impo-isrhle hy Ruljinson, in ht!» BMiioi lUstanhcs (ii. 653). Mukadda&i's accuuiit cnnfirms this by placing Ar Kakim three mile:» frum 'Amnian. Further, Ibn al Aitiir (' Chronicle, ' xl 359) sifttes that Ar Kaktm lies two days' march north of Kaiak, on the road iK-twecn Damascus and that fortress. Neither of these tndieaiions will al!ow of Ar Kakim bcincj tftcntiHed with I'dra (Wall Musa) lying two days' march souih of tlic De.ui Sea. Ttte confii.ioii no itoulit arose frum the fact that there were in Hebrew limes two Kakmii», is pruvcd by the notices given 278 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, The following is the accoum of the cave given by Mukaddast : *' In the village of Ar Raktm, which lies about a league distant from 'Ammdn, and on the border of the desert, is a cavern with two entrances — one large, one small — and they say that he who enters by the larger is unable to leave by the smaller, unless he have with him a <^uidc. In the cave are three tombs, concerning which Abu-1 I'adl iMuhanunad ibn Mansur related to me the fol- lowing tradition of the Prophet, and his authority was Aim Bakr ibn Sa id, who said that 'Abd Allah, the son of the Klialif Omar, wab wont to relate the stur\ , he himself having heard it from the mouth of the Prophet — the grace of Allah be upon him, and His peace ! Thus he spoke : ' While three men once were walking toL'ether, heavy rain overtook them, and tlrove them into a cavern ol the mountain, and of a sudden there fell, from the mountain above, a rock which blocked up the mouth of the cave, and behold they were shut in. I'hen one of them called to the other, saying, " Now, mind ye of such good deeds as ye have done, and call on Allah thereby, beseeching Him, so that for the sake thereof perchance He may cleave this rock before us." Then one of them cried aloud, saying, " Allah ! of a truth have not I my two parents who are old and feeble, besides my children, of whom I am the sole protector ? And when I return to them, I do milk the kine, and give first of the milk to my two parents, even before giving of it to my children. Now, on a certain day, when I was at forced labour, I came not to them until it was night, and found my parents slumbering. Then I milked the kine, as was my wont, and t brought of the milk and came and stood near by unto them, but feared awaking them from their sleep; and further, I dared not give of it to the children before the setting of it before my elders, although the children, in truth, were in distress for want thereof. And thus I remained waiting till the breaking of the dawn. Now, since Thou knowest well how I did this thing from fear of Thy face, so therefore cause this rock to cleave before us, that through the same we may perceive the sky." Then Allah caused a cleft to split in the rock, and through it they in the Talmud (cf. Neuhauer's Geoj^raphie dti Talmuti)^ namely, *Rekem of Ga'aya ' and ' Rekem of Hagra,' the latter being Peira. LEGMNDS AND MARVELS. 279 perceived the sky. Then the second one cried aloud, and said, "Allah ! was there not the dau-hter of my uncie, uiioai 1 loved passionately, as only man can love? And when 1 sought to possess her, she would refuse herself to me, saying that I should bring her a hundred pieces of gold. Then I made effort, and col- lected those hundred pieces, brini^'ing them to her; but even as I was entering to i)ossess her, she cried aloud and said, ' O servant ot Allah, fear Him, and force me not, except in lawfulness.' So I went from her. And now, verily, as i'hou knowest that i did even this from the fear of l hy face, so therefore cleave unto us again a portion of this rock." And Allah vouchsafed to cleave thereof another cleft Then the last man cried aloud, and said, Allah ! did I not hire a serving-man for the customary portion of rice? And when his task was accomplished, he said to me, 'Now give to me my due.' And 1 gave to him his due; but he would not receive it, and despised it. Then I ceased not to use the same for sowing till, of profit, I became possessed of cattle and of a neat- herd slave. And after long time, the man came to me and said, ' Fear Allah, and oppress me not ; but give to me my due.' And I, answering him, said, * Go thou, then, to these cattle and their herdsmen, and receive them.' Said he again, ' Fear Allah, and mock me not !' And I answered him, ' Verily, I mock thee not. 1)0 thou take these cattle and their herdsmen.' So he at last, taking them, did go his way. And now, since Thou knowest how I did this thing in fear of Thy face, do Thou cause what of this rock lemaineth to be cleft before us." Then Allah caused the whole rock to become cleft before them.' " (Muk., 175.) The tradition here given is evidently a somewhat disguised version of the story of the Ove of the Sleepers mentioned in the Kiiiaii. Mas'iidi, wijung n\ 94 remarks on the history of the Companions of the Cave and -\r Rakim : " There is consider- able difference of opinion among i)cople as to the Comj>anions of the Cave and of Ar Rakim. Some there are who iiold the Com- panions of the Cave to be the same as the Companions of Ar Rakim, and say that Rakim is but the name of the Com- panions of the C'ave that were loritkn {Rakama) on a tablet of stone over the door of the cavern. Others say the Companions PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. of the Cave are quite distinct from the Companions of Ar KakSm." (Mas., iii. 307.) Of visits to the reputed Cave of the Sleepers in the Greek territories there are several accounts quoted by Y4kC^t, and other writers. The earliest is said to have taken place about the year 1 i A.K. (633) ; next in chronological order is the account found in Mukaddasi of a visit in the year 103 (720) ; a third visit, men> tioned in YakAt, is set down to have taken place in the reign of the Khalif al Withik, about the year 845 a.d. The first account is as follows : ** 'Ubadah ibn as S&mit relates as follows : ' Abu Bakr as Siddik despatched me the year he became Khalif (a.h. ii» a.d. 633) to the King of Kdm (Greece) to exhort him to receive Islaoi, or else to declare him war/ "HJb&dah continues: *We journeyed until we entered the country of the Greeks, and when we were approaching Constanti- nople, there appeared before us a red mountain in which they said were ihc Conipanii^ns of the Cave, and Ar Rakim ; so we turned aside to a monastery, and .nqaired of the people thereof concerning them, and theypuuiicd out a passage in the mountain. Then we told them thai we wished lo see the (Companions of the Cave). They said, "Give us somewhat," and we gave them Dinars. Then they entered the passage, and we entered after them, and there was herein :i door of iron which they opened, and they brought us to a mighty chamber (^a//) hollowed in the mountain, in wliicli were thirteen men lying on their backs, as though they were asleep. They all were covered from head to foot with dust-gray cloaks and shirts. We could not discover whether their clothes were of wool or of hair, or of what other material ; but the textuie was harder than brocade, and crackled from the thickness and the excellence of the stuff. We saw that most of thetn had on boots (kAu/a/) reaching up to the middle of the leg, but some were shod with sandals {m'd/) sewn together. Both the boots and the sandals were of excellent semng^ and the leather was such as the like I have not seen elsewhere. We un- covered their faces, one after the other, and lo ! in all was the complexion of healthful bloom, and of red bkxKl (in the cheeks). .^ .d by Google LEGENDS AND MARVELS, 2S1 as is the appearance of a living man. Of some (the hair) was turning gniy» and some were in their youth with black hair ; some had flowing locks, and some were shaven. Their stature was that of ordinary Muslims. When we came to the last of them, we beheld that his head had been cut off with a sword-stroke^ and it was as though it had been struck off that very day. We inquired of those who had conducted us hither what they did with these men. They replied, it was their wont to come in here on- the festival-day of (the Companions of the CaveX when the people of the country would assemble at the gate of the cave, coming in from all the towns and villages around ; and that then, during some days, they would stand the dead men upright in order to clean them, and shake the dust troiu iheir cloaks and shirts; also, iJicy pared liieir nails, and eut their moustaches, and after this the) laid iheni down once more in the position in which we now saw them,' "*'I'hen we inquired ot uur guides as lu who these men had been, and what had been their ottice, and how long they had lain in this place. The guides answered us they had found in their Books that these men had lain in this place since four hundred years before the coming of the Messiah— peace be upon Him !— and that they had been prophets, sent at a certain time, and that they knew naught more of their condition but this.' "Says the writer, 'Abd Allah (Yakftt), the poor servant (of God) : ' All this have I copied from the work of a man of trust, but Allah alone knows if it be true.' ' (YSk., il 806.) A somewhat similar account to the above is also given by Mukaddasi, but with the difference that the visit he narrates took place some ninety years later than the date quoted for Yakdt's narrative, and natuially the narrator " is not the same. Mukad- dasi, after stating that Tarsus was in his day (985) in the power of the Greeks, continues : ** As r^rds the Cave (of the Seven Sleepers), the city to which it belongs is Tarsus ; and further, here is the tomb of Dakiy&nQs, and in the neighbourhood is a hill, on which is a mosque, said to have been built above the cave. The jurisprudist Abu 'Abd-Allah Muhammad 'Omar al Bukhlbrt related to us, quoting the words of 389 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Abu Talib al Yamani, who held it by a chain of authorities, that Mujilhid ibn Yaztd had reported, saying, *I went forth with Kh&lid al Bartdt in the days when he went on an emhassy to the Emperor (at Consuntinople), during the year of the Flight loa (720), and beside us two there went no other Muslims. After we had visited Constantinople^ we set out to return by 'AmOriyyah (Amorium), and thence, in the course of four nights, we reached Al I^Sdhikiyyah (Loadicea Combusta), which had been destroyed by 6re. From thence we came on to Al Hawiyyah, which lies in the midst of the mountains, and it was here told us that in this place were some dead men, who they were none knew, but there were guards set to guard them. And the people caused us to enter a tunnel, some 50 ells deep and 2 broad, having lamps with us, and behold, in the middle of this tunnel was an iron door, it being a hi(li»i|;-place for their families at limes vvlicn the Arabs make their incursions against them. At this spot were ruined buildings of great extent, in the midst of which was a hole in the ground, some 15 t ils across, filled with water, and from here one could perceive the sky. The cavern from this place entered the bowels of the mountain, and we were conducted to a spot right under Al Hawivyah, where was a chamber some 20 ells deep. In this were thirteen men, lying prostrate one behind the other, each wearing a cloak. I was unable to see whether this was of wool or of hair, but the cloaks were gray in colour ^ust-coloured vest- ments— which crackled under the touch like parchment. Tn every case the garments, which were fringed, veiled the face of the wearer, and covered his limbs. And some wore boots up to the middle of the leg, nnd some sandals, while others had shoes; but everything was perfectly new. On uncovering the face of one of them, I perceived that the hair of his head and of his beard had remained unchanged, and that the skin of his face was shining, the blood appearing in his cheeks. It was as though these men had laid themselves down but a moment before, for their limbs were supple as are the limbs of living men, and all were still in their youth, except certain of them whose locks had begun to turn gray. And behold, one of them had had his head cut off, and inquiring of the people of the matter, they answered, LEGENDS AND MARVELS, saying, " When the Arabs came down on us, and took possession of Al ILiwiyyah, wc gave ihcm information concerning these (dead men), but they would not beUeve us, and one of the Arabs struck the head ofT this i)ody." " ' The men of Al Hawiyyah further related to us that at the commencement of each year on their feast day the jjeople asseml)Ie in this cavern, and, raising each of these corpses one by one, they cause them to stand upright. 'I'hen they wash them, and shake the dust off their clothes, and arrange their garments. Moreover, these dead men are not allowed afterwards to fall or sink down, but are laid out by the people, after the manner we saw, on the ground ; and they pare their nails three times in the year, for these do continue to grow. Tlien we inquired the explanation of these things, and concerning their origin; but the people replied that they knew nothing about the matter, only adding, *' We call them prophets."' " The befQr&-mentioned Muj&hid and Khilid further state that they themselves concluded that these men must be the Ct^m- pamoHS of the Cave (mentioned in the Kur^n) ; but Allah alone knows.'* (Muk., 15J.) The third account is quoted by Y&kQt. This visit is stated to have taken place rather more than a century after the one described in the pages of Mukaddasi : "It was the Khalif Al Wftthik (a.h. 227 232; a.d. 842 847) who sent Muhammad ibn MQsIl al Munajjim (the Astrologer) to the countries of the Greeks to discover the Companions of the Cave and Ar Rakfm. This Muhammad, the astrologer, reports of his journey a^ follows : " ' And we reached the country of the Greeks, and, lo I before us was a small mountain, the base of which was not niore than 1,000 ells (round). In its side is a passage ; and you enter by this passage, and pass tlirough a tunnel in the ground for the distance of 300 paces, when you arrive at a portico {rhvdk). This is in the mountain ; it is supported by columns cut out of the rock. In the rock are numerous ( hamhers (hnif), and among them one with a tall doorway, of man's height, closed by a stone gate. It is here the dead men lie. There was one in attendance 384 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. who guarded ihem, and with htm were eunuchs. The guardian would have turned us aside from seeking to see the dead men ; for he said that of a surety he who went down to seek them would receive some bodily injury. But by this dissimulation he sought rather to keep the advantage of the visitation to himself (and his people). " * Then said I to him, ** Give me but a sight of them, and thou shalt be free (of all blame in the matter)." And so ascending with great pain a rough way, and accompanied by one of my >-oung men, I beheld these (dead men). And, lo ! (their bodies; had been rubbed with unguents, the hair being soft in the hand, and their limbs anointed with aloes, and myrrh, and camphor to preserve them. Their skin clave to the bones — for I passed my hand over the breast of one of them — and 1 found the hair thereof rough. The garments were strong (of texture). ** ' After that (we had retumcd) the guarciiaii presented us with food, and besought us to eat ; but when we took thereof and tasted it our stoinaclis revolted from it, and vomited it up again. It was as though a villainy had been aiiempted, and that (the guardian) had sought to kill us— or certain of us, nt least— in order to justify the words of dissimulation used in the presence of the king when saying that the Companions of Ar Kakim would surely work us evil. 'I'hen said we to the (guardian), ** We had imagined they would have been living men, with the semblance of those who are dead ; but behold these (men) are not of this sort I" And we left him, and went our ways.'" (V'ak., ii. 805.) Referring to the \arious accounts of the Cave of the Seven Sleepers, Al fiirOni, who wrote in 390 (a.d. 1000), has some pertinent remarks, which I quote from Professor Sachau's excellent translation of the text,* where, in the chapter on the festivals of the Syrian calendar, and under date of the 5th of Tishrtn I. (October^ we find the following : " Commemoration of the Seven Sleepers of £phesus, who arc mentioned in the Kurftn. The Khalif Al Mu'tasim had sent * Translation of the Atfidral Bdktyak^ p. 285. Oriental Translation Fund^ 1879. LEGENDS AND MARVELS. along with his ambassador another person, who saw the place of the Seven Sleepers with his own eyes, and touched them with his own hands. This report is known to everybody. We must, however, observe that he who touched them — Muhammad ibn MQsa ibn Shakir — himself makes the reader rather doubt whether they are really the corpses of those seven youths or other people — in fact, some sort of deceptioa 'Ali ibn YahyS, the astronomer, relates that, on returning from his expedition, he entered that identical place— a small mountain, the diameter of which at the bottom is a little less than i,ooo yards. At the outside you see a subterranean channel, which goes into the interior of the mountain, and passes through a deep cave in the earth for a distance of 300 paces. Then the channel runs out into a sort of half open hall in the mountain, the roof being supported by perforated columns; and in this hall there is a number of separate compartments. There, he says, he saw thirteen people, among them a beardless youth, dressed in woollen coats and other woollen garments, in boots and shoes. He touched some luurs on the forehead of one of them, and tried to flatten them, but they did not yield. That tlieir number is more than seven^ — which is the Muhammadan — and more than eight — which is the Christian tradition — is, perhaps, to be explained in this way. that some monks have been added who died there in the same spot. . . A few words may be added in conrlii u ti reijarding the names of the Seven Sleepers as given in the authorities quoted in the A^ia Saiiciofum of tli ' Bollandists ( Tomus vi. Julii, p. 375 ei seq.\ and in the Btbliotheca Orunialia of Assemani (vol. i., p. 335 et seq.). The legend of the Seven Sleepers is first referred to in Western literature by Gregory of Tours {Dt Gloria Martyrum^ vol. i., 9, caput 95), according to whom they were seven in number, their names being Clemens^ FHmus^ LcUus^ J^eodoruSj Gaudens^ Qutriacus (or Cyriatus\ and Intwaniius, In the official list of the Roman Acta Sanchrum the names appear in I^tin as MaximianuSt Comtaniimts^ Makkus^ Serapion^ Mariinianus^ Dionysius^ Johannes, In Greek the first two figure as MaximiUantts a86 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. and Constanfiniafnts respectively; while Exacusiodianus replaces Ma/chus, and Jamhlichus Serapion^ of the Roman bst. In Assemani {Bibi. Or., i. 3 56) we find n list taken from the writings of Dion) sius, the Jacobite patriarch, who gives the number as eia^/it, their names being Maxhnilianus^ Jamblichus^ Strap ion, Ma' ii^iiani/s, Johannts, Exustmiianus, Dionysius, and Ankvnnus. The following are the names, sei'en in number, from two other Martyrologies, as given in the Acta San torum {loi. ext., p. 376) : Russian : Maximilianus, Dionjiius^ AmtUichus^ Martimts^ Anlonini/s, JohanneSy Marcellus. Ethiopian (as given by Jobus Ludoifus, CaUndarium .^Jhiopi- atm, p. 436): Arshaledes^ Diomedts^ EugeniuSy Dimatheus^ Bronaiheus, Stephus^ Cynacus. The list given by the Arab traditionist, Ibn 'Abbas (cited above, p. 276), is, doubtless^ somewhat corrupt. In £utychius (edited by Pocock, vol. i., p. 390 of the text) the names appear as Afaksimydnds, Atnlikhus^ ViyAnfts^ Martin^f DiyiUdsiy^Sy Antumytts, YuhannA. The variety in the names would appear to have struck the Martyrologists as requiring some explanation. In the Ada SaneUfrnm {ioc, W/., p. 376) the opinion of the anonymous Greek author of a MS. in the Medicean Library is quoted, as also that of Boninus Membritiu& These are both of the opinion that the variants were due to the fact that the individuals are cited, in one account, under their original Pagan names, and, in another, under the names they subsequently received in baptism. ZUGHAR* AND THE CITIES OF LOT. The town of Zughar, so frequently mentioned by early Arab historians, is the Segor of the Crusading Chtonicles, situated at the southern end of the Dead Sea. Whether or not this occupies the site of the Biblical Zoar of Ijoi is a point on which certainty is hardly to be obtained after the lapse of so many centuries, and when taking into account the extreme paucity and obscurity of the topographical indications afforded by the Book of (Genesis. It has, however, been stated t that the Arab geographers place * Also .spelt Sughar, and Sukar. t Notably by Dr. Selah Merrill, East of the Jcrdan^ p. 233 et s^q. LBGESDS AND MARVELS. 2»7 Zucrhar at the twrthern end of the Dead Sea, near Jericho ; and on this authority the Zoar of l ot has been identified with Tell esh Shaghur, not far to the cast ot the Jordan Ford. The Arab geographers are, however, unanimous in placing Zughar at the southern extremity of the Dead Sea, and in this they may be taken to confirm the tradition preser\'ed by Josephus (who is followed by Eusebius and Jerome in the Onomasticon)^ who speaks of the Dead Sea as stretching from Jericho on the north to Segor on the south. The misapprehension of the texts of the Arab geographers is, doubtless, due to a confusion of the two Ghaurs. For it must be borne In mind that the valley leading south from the Dead Sea to the head of the Gulf of *Akabah is known to the Aral)s as the Ghaur (see above, p. 31), and hence bears the same name as that applied by them to the Jordan Valley running up north from that lake. To the Arab mediaeval writers, Zughar, the City of Ix>t, was as well known a place as Jerusalem or Damascus. It was the most noted commercial centre of the south country, and the capital of the Province of Ash Shankh (Edom), being com- parable even to Basrah, the Port of Baghdad, for the extent of its commerce. To sum up the indications detailed below, Zughar lay near the Dead Sea, one or two days' march from Jericho, three days' from Jerusalem, one from Ma'ab (near Karak). and four from the head of the (iulf of 'Akabah. From all of whieh it is imjwssible that a town op[)osite Jericho, across the Jordan Tord, can be intended. To set the matter of the position of Zughar beyond a doubt, however, the testimony of Abu-1 Fida may be quoted, who gives the latitude of the town. I- or the case \x\ point, the latitude and ' longitudes given in the Arab geographers —though not exact pos- sibly as to the nunil)er of degrees and minutes — are worthy of reliance for fixing the contparatrre i)(jsiii(Mi of places. The figures to be quoted prove that Zughar lay south of the middle of the Dead Sea, while Jc ri( ho, of course. Jay north of this point. The latitude in the Arab geographers was reckoned, as with us, south to north, beginning at the equator ; the longitude, west to east, beginning at the Fortunate Isles in the Atlantic. 288 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, 'I hese are the figures given in Abu-1 Fida (text, pp. 39, 48) : North Lat. West Lodk. Zughar . . . '30^ and a fraction . 57^* Central piint of the Dfad Sea . 31" . . .59" Jericho . • . •31*' (10^ • fraction . 564" Baisan .... 32f * . * 58* Hence Zughar lay aljuut one degree of latitude S(>////i of Jericho. The curious tradition (see p. 290) preserved in Yakut connecting Zughar and 'Amman with the two incestuous daugliters of Lot, is derived from Rabbinical sources, ampUfying the account given in the nineteenth chapter of the Book of Genesis concerning the origin of Amraon and Moab. The two daughters of Ix)t are called in the Aramaic writin«;s Rabbetha^ the Elder, and Se'iria^ the ^'ounger, which in the Arabic have becotiie Rubbah, or Rabbahy and Sughar or Zughar. The nntne Rubbah is sometimes writen by mistake Rayyah (by the omission of a diacritical point),* but that this is not the true reading is proved by its position in the alphabetical arrangement of YakOt's Dictionary, where the article ' Rubbah ' occurs in the section of Rb^ not in Ry, In regard to the names of the Cities of the Plain preserved by Mas'Mt and Yiktit) it is worthy of note (in view of a possible identification of the site with some existing rainX that Gomorrah figures as 'AmOri, with the initial letter *Ain in place of Gham ; thus preserving the transcription found in tne Hebrew text where we have Amorah — the pronunciation of Gomorrah having been adopted into our Bible from the Greek Septuagint version.t Though Zughar was such a large and well-known town during all the Middle Ages, no traces apparently remain of it at the pre- sent day ; at any rate, none have been described by modem tra- vellers, who liavc visited the southern sh(jres of the Dead Sea. The same remark has also to be made regarding any remains of the other Cities of l>ot mentioned by the Arab geographers. Our first description of Zughar is the aceuunt given by Istakbri and Ibn Haukal, in the latter half of the tenth century a.d. : * Sec in the Index, s.7>. 'Rabbnh.' + A full discussion of Segor, .Sodom, and Gomorrah will ha found in a paper by M. Clermont Ganiieau in the Quarterly Statement of the Palestim Lxpiora- Hm Futid, 1S86, p. 19U LEGENDS AND MARVELS. *'Zugliar is a city ut huat lying in a hot counlry silualed very near the desert, but it is full of good things. They grow here much indigo, which, however, for dye purposes, does not come up to that of Rahul. The trade of the place is considerable, and its niarkcts are greatly frequented. " In Zughar there is a species of fresh date called Al Inkil4,* the equal of which yon will not find in 'Irak or elsewhere for sweetness and beauty of appearance. It is saffron coloured and of exquisite quality, and four (dates) go to a span length " (or " to a pound." I. H.)* "The Country of Lot's People (DiyAr Kaum L^i) is that known as the Overturned, or the Accursed. There is here neither seed sown, nor mtlch kine grown, nor herb nor plant of any kind. It is a black plain strewn over with stones all of about equal size. Apparently these are the 'Marked Stones' (mentioned in the Kur^ ix. 84), which were^ cast down on the people of Lot. On most of these stones there is what looks like the impress of a seal; and they resemble in appearance cheeses, and are extraordinary for their size and roundness.** (Is., 64; L H., 124, copied by A. F., 228.) Mas'udi, writing in 943 a.d., notes that "the Cities of Lot's People were in the Jordan Territory in the Province of Filastin. There were five cities, of which the capital was SaduMi The name of eacli of their Kings in turn was Bari', as mentioned in the PeiUaicuch."t (Mas., iii. 222.) "The five cities of Lot were called Sadum, "Amilra (Gho- niurrah ). AdraOta (Admah), Sa lira (Zoar), and SabQra (Zeboim)," (Mas., i. 85.) Of Siigliar, Mukaddasi writes, in the tenth century : " The people of the two neighbouring districts call tlie town Snkar (that is. Hell) ; and a native of Jerusalem was wont to write from here to his friends, addressing. From the Imver Sakar (Hell) unto (hose in the up^r FirdHs (Paradise). And verily this is a country that is deadly to the stranger, for its water is execrable ; and he who * /ttkild dales are, jwrhaps tho^c ihc ancients knew by the name of NiiroXaoi. See Mover's l^meia^ iii. 1, 234. t Gen. xiv. 2 : * These made war with Bent, King of Sodom/ 19 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. should find that the Angel of l>eath delays for him, let him come here, for in all Islam I know not of any place to equal it in evil climate. I have seen other lands that were stricken by the plague but none so badly as this, not even the land of JurjSn (in Persia). Its people are black-skinned and thick-net. Its waters are hot, even as though the place stood over Hell-fire. On tin other hand, its oommercial prosperity is like Busrah (the port of Baghd&d) on a small scale, and its trade is very lucrative The town stands on the shore of the Overwhelming Lake (the Dead Sea), and is, in truth, a remnant of the Cities of Lot, being th^ one that was saved by reason that its inhabitants knew nothing of the abominations practised in the other cities. The mountains rise up near, and overhang the town." (Muk., 178 ; copied by Yfik., iiL 396.) Between Palestine and the HijjSz, that is, between Ar Ramlah and Wailah, are the stones which were cast at the people of Lot. They lie along the Pilgrim Road, being striped, and of size botb Uirge and small." (Muk., 185.) The tradition of Lot's Daughters, given by Yakdt, is repeated twice, and then again referred to in his article on 'Ammftn (see Part II.). Zughar is also connected with other Muslim legends, namely those relating to the events that announce the Day of Judgment Yakut's account is as follows : "Zughar is a village in the Eastlands of Syria on the borders of the Stinking I>ake (the l^ead Sea). The Lake is called after it Bahr Zughar. It is near Al Karak. Zughar was the name of the Daughter of Lot who dwelt at this jilace. and from her the town was called. It lies three dnvs' march from Jerusalem on the Hijjaz border, and they have niin h arable land here. Zughar is mentioned in the Tradition of the Spy, called Al Jassfisah^ which is a Beast lying in the Isles of the Sea who spies for news and carries it to the Antichrist, who is called Ad Dajjal. She is also called *the Beast of the Earth.' The spring, 'Ain Zughar, will sink down in the End of Days, and this is one of the signs of the Resurrection. " A man of the people of TamSm ad 1 )ari relates that he and his companions were driven to a certain island in the sea by a contrary wind, and they found there a Beast They inquired,. LEGENDS AND MARVELS. 291 'Who art thou?* The Beast answered, *I am she who spies.' Then said they, 'Give us news.' But she replied, * If ye want news, then turn to this Monaster)-, where is a man who hath desire to see you.' So the men went to him, and he said, * Verily ye must inform me, and give me news.' Said he, continuing, 'What doth the Lake of 'I'abariyyah ?* They replied, ' It laves its borders.' Said he, ' What doth the Palm of 'Amman and that of Baisan?' They replied, *The ])eoi)le thereof gather the iruns.' Said lie, * What doth the Spring of Zughar?' They replied, 'The people thereof drink of it.' Then said he, ' Had it been dry, I had broken mv truce, and trod under mv feet all the water-stations, all except those at Makkah and Al Madinah alone.' And this Zughar is that which is beside the Stinking Sea." '* Ibn 'Abbas further relates : When the people of I^t perished. Lot fled with his daughters, intending to go to Syria. But the eldest of his daughters, who was called Rubbah, died first, and she was buried at a spring which was called after her 'Ain Rubbah. Then after this the younger died also, and her name was Zughar, and she was buried near a spring, which was called after her 'Ain Zughar. " This valley (in which Zughar lies) is most unhealthy, and its people only continue to dwell there because it is their native place. They are alllirted in most years with the plague, and it kills the greater number of them." (Y^k., ii. 934 ; Mar., i. 514.) " The name of ZugAar, according to the same authorities, is - also spelt Sugkar and SitkarJ* (Y&k., iii. 396 ; Mar., ii. 159.) Of the other cities of the plain mentioned by YdkAt are the following : " DAdhOma, one of the villages of the People of Lot" Possibly the Biblical Admah. (Yak., ii. 516 ; Mar , i. 381 ) 'AniLira {(iomorrah) said to be "a Hebrew word, and one of the Cities of Lot s people." (\'ak., iii. 594-) "Sadiim (Sodom), is one of the cities of Lot's people. Sadi'nn, however, says Al Madaini, is the city of .Sarniin, of the Hjilah (Aleppo) District, and is a well known and [X)pulous j)lace. There is an edict in force here, that whosoever commits fornication, there is taken from him a fine of four Dirhams.' (V uk., iii. 59; Mar., ii. J 8.) 19 — a 2^2 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. " Sabwayaim (Sel)oim One of the cities of the people of Lot." (Vak., iii. 367 ; Mar., ii. 146.) Finally, under the heading of Ax Ruhbah, or Ar Rabbah, the tradition of Lot's I^aughters is given again by YakQt in the follow- ing words': " Ar Rubbah is a village on the side of the Ghaur, lying between the lands of the Jordan and Balki Provinces. According to the tradition related by Ibn 'Abb^ : When LCit (Lot) fled from his home, he had with him his two daughters, one of whom was called Ruhbah and the other Sughar. And the elder of them died, that is Rubbah, near a spring, and was buried there. And they called the spring after her 'Ain Rubbah, and built over it a town called Rubbah. And Zughar, the younger daughter, died at *Ain Zughar, which was in like manner called after her.'* (Vfik., ii. 752 ; Mar., i. 460.) Among later accounts of Zughar the following note by Dimasliki, written about the year 1300, is the only one worth translating : '* Zughar lies in the district of As S&fiyah in the Ghaur. There grows here a kind of date like those called Al Barani and Al Iz&d in 'Irak." (Dim , 213.) Besides those already g'\en, the following notes of distances between /ugharand the nci^hbourinL; towns are worth inserting, as lending to prove that this city lay at the soufA end of the Dead Sea : Zughar to Kiha (Jericho), two days. (Is., I.H., Id.) To Jabal ash Sharah, one day. (Is., I.H.) And to the further limit of the same, two days. (Id.) Zughar to Kawus, one march. (Muk.) 'i o Maab, one march. (Muk.) To Wailah, four marches. (Muk.) THE Wni.L OF THE LEAF.* " Al Kalt,'' writes Yakat, is a place in Syria where there is a well called Btr al Kalt "The tradition concerning this well is as follows: Hisham ibn Muhammad reports that Ibn 'Abd ar Rahmin the Kuraishite elated to him the following, which he received from the wife of * See aliio p. 198. LEGENDS AND MARVELS. Shuraik ibn HabSshah an Numairi. Said she : ' We set out with the Khalif Omar ibn Al Khatt&b in the days when he went (from Al Madtnah) up to Syria, and we halted at a place called Al Kalt. Then my husband, Shuraik, went to draw water, and he let fall.bis. bucket in (the well of) Al Kalt, and could not get it again because of the press of men. And one said to him, "Put it off till the night-time." So when the evening was come he descended into (the well oQ Al Kalt, but did not return. The next day 'Omar wished to set out on the march, but I went to him and told him of my husband's being missing, and he tarried during three days, but on the fourth was preparing lo dcj):iri, when, behoUl, Shuraik a[)pcarcd. The people in(|uired of him. "Where hast tliuu been?" Hut he (answered not, and) went before Omar. And in his hand he held a leaf, but the fare of ilic leaf was hidden, for the back curled over and hid it. Said he, "O Commander of the Faithful! verily T found in the (well of) Al Kali a way, and one met me cominjj. and took me to a land the Hke of which is not among your lands, with gardens the like of whieh is not among the gartlens of this world. And I asked that he would give me .something, but he replied that this was not the time for such things. But I took this leaf, and behold, it is as the leaf of a fig-tree." Then 'Omar called to Ka'ab al Ahlxir* and said, " Hast thou not found in thy (Jewish) Books, that a certain man of our people should enter Paradise and yet return again alive ?" Said he, Yea verily, and if he be among these men, I will point him out unto thee." Said 'Omar, ** He is even among these men." So (Ka'ab) looked at them and pondered, and said, "This is he." And ('Omar) proclaimed that the dress of the Bani Numair should hencefordi be green (as it is) even to this present day.' Here ends the account." (Ydlc, iv. f 57 ; Mar., ii. 459.) OrIM THE ANCIENT TEMPLE. # ■ *'l)rim,'* says YakAt, '-is the name of each of four villages belonging to Halab (Aleppo) Province. These are, tJrim al Kubri (the Great), t)rim as Sughr^ (the Little), Orim al J.ui/ (of the Nut), and t)rim al Barlmakah (of the Barmecides). * Concerning this p«rM>nage sec note lo p. 142. 294 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, " In Urim al |au/ is a marvclkius m^IiI. i ur ilicre is here a building which was in an( icnt times a Temple, and the people of the neighbouring villai/cs were used lo see shining in it a light as of a white fire, hut when they apj^roached thereto it disapjjcarcd, and they could see nothing. It has been related to me by certain persons in Halab that on this building were once three tablets of stone with inscriptions, in ancient writing, to be interpreted as follows. On the tablet facing south it was written : " 6W is One I this edifice was completed three hundred and twenty- tight years l>efore the coming of the Messiah — peace be upon Him / *' On the tablet that was over the doorway was written : *' Peace be on iiiin ivho hath completed this edijice* " .\nd on the tablet to the north was written : '* This is the li^ht of the East, beltmd of God^ which came to us in the days of Al Barbar^ in the days of reneii'ed conquest, in the days of the King JndwHs and In&s of the Sea who came to the House. And Kaidsas^ attd XdsHrus, and Baidbiyd, On the laM of the month Iluly of the date above mentioned. May peace continue ettn unto the latter end of the World and the time of righteousness.** (V^, i 401 ; Mar., i. 102.) *AIN AL JARAH, AND THE MENHIR. 'Ain a) J4rah, according to YftkAt, is a domain near Halab (Alcpi>o). He continues : "Abu 'Ali at TanOkhi al Husain ibn Bint Ohfilam al Babaghft has related to me (Yakut) the following account, which he further wrote down lor me in his own liund, certifying to the truth thereof : *' 'l liere was (said he) in the neighbuuriiood of iiaiab a domain called 'Ain jarah, and between this place and Al Haunah, which some aUo call Al Jaumah, was an upright stone, as might be for a boundary between the two domains. Now, wiienever a quarrel fell out between any of the inhabitants of these two i^gjpniains, the people of A! Haunah were wont to proceed and down this standmg stone. As soon, however, as the stone lUen, the women-folk of the two domains would come out ly and in all their ornaments, but as though deprived of ^ .d by Google LSGENDS AND MARVELS, 295 their reason ; and they would seek to commit fornication, neither were they to be restrained in the madness that possessed them by any sense of shame. To prevent this the men would hasten to the stone and set it up again as it was before, standing erect and firm; after which the women would return to their houses, regaining the discrimination of matters such as are abhorrent to commit. Says the writer (Y&kfit) : I inquired at Halab for this domain, and they told me of it, and they mentioned that there was near hy^ in a ravine like a torrent bed, a standing column ; what this had been was not known ; neither had these people any knowledge of this story that had been related unto me, to the effect that when the stone was thrown down, the women (of the districts) would become possessed by erotic desires. 'Ain al J&rah is a celebrated domain, and one that is well known to all the inhabit- ants ol Halab. ' (Vak., iii. 760 : Mar., ii. 295.) The story of the Menhir, near Win Jarali, is curious if true. The present village of the name lies north-west of Aleppo, near the road to IskandarCin. HA AI.KAKK (HKMDi'OLls). Ya'kubi, in the ninth century A.D,, writes lia'albakk is one of the finest towns in Syria. It has magnificent st'-ne buildings; and there is also a wonderful spring, from which issues a copious river. Within the town are both giardens and orchards. Many Persians are settled here." (Yb., 113, 114.) **The stones of Ba'albaklt;" says Ibn al Fakth, *'are one of the wonders of Syria. There are here stones, the smallest of which measures 15 ells; while the largest of them, a single stone in the wall, measures 10 ells (15 feet) in the height, by 15 ells (32 feet) in the breadth, and 45 ells (67 feet> in the length. (1. R, 118.) Mas'ftdi, in 943, writes: **At Ba'albakk, in the Province of Damascus, in the district of Santr, is the Temple of Ba'al. The ancient Greeks chose this piece of ground, lying between the * According to B.ie<leker {Syria, p. 499), iHe three larf;c'>t stones in the west wall of the Temjile men«;uro 64. 6 ;^. and 62 feet in length, by 13 feet in thick* ncs^ ; what the breadth is cannot !« '^cn. Digitized by Google OfcHI : • '■. ' ^ • - ; plaice StW"., ^ ^ — , — ry i v\a v v " : f-i r - '. vj : h r^j m i: h r.^ o> : of the h i^ii v ( Ky fr,/ / v f r,'-;f u,> 'o/. D ;;rc irjiH> and wntcr whcds. The platx' WiMniy «Hr#|^f ii»«^rkiiia vc^geiatioiit and quaiititiLs of faiit. The irrct^f >. '/v*-ff!'//r y.jih i^rapcf, and there are trc«« that ^'^c all sorts W #iMilt frail.-', V; t}i;it provisioDS ave cheap. At Ba'albak^ are »rt'/t}f >Nt,\Ai'\UA edifices and ruins, which arc c^ervwheie for tbdr magnificence and the solidit) of their coo- There are especially two wonderful t^iiidiiigi Ifaat (tU Mai**iham)^ one the larger, the^her the smalkr. M\ '.n uit ▲ Tlirri: ani; It ff wld, wti tsuflt itt the days of Solomon, the eoQ . ^^llSndcrfiil ink T Ibr their ilsdbi «it (I most wondrolii to look on. There are in it IfDgth of 10 cubitsi lome more, some less. And |i9i9puo« I «oiif|VHn] \v ^j^^^ ^ |j i^in ^„ hjg,^ columns, and moat d by Google 296 PALESTINE UNDER THE BfOSLEMS. Jahal 1 ubnan (l^clKinon; and the Jalyfil Sanir, for the l)uiUliji>; of their temple, as being a choice place lur their idols. The temple consists of two edifices, one larger than the other ; and in h()tl\ of t them are sculptures, most marvellously cut in the stone, such as you will not find the like of executed elsewhere, even in wood. For the height of the roof, the hugeness of the stones, the length of the columns, ind the breadth of the porticos, are not more wonderful than is the building as a whole." (Mas., iv. 87.) Istakhri and Ibn Haukal write : " Ba'albakk, in the Damascus Province, is a city lying on the hill-slope. All its edifices are of stone, with castles {Xtts£r) of stone built with high columns. In all Syria there is no place more wonderful to see, or with greater buildings. " (Is., 61 ; L H., 116.) In Mukaddasi we read : " Ba'albakk is an ancient and fortified ' , city. Within the ramparts are cultivated lands, also many ruins. Grapes are in abundance. Like the other cities of the Province of Damascus, Ba'albakk is pros^^rous and pleasant, being situated in the lands l)ordering on the Nahr a1 MaklCib (the river Orontes). Ba'albakk is noted as being the coldest place in Syria. It is celehratetl for the sweetmeat called iMalljan." . (Muk., 160, 1 jy, and iSi . see above, j). 20.) Idrisi's account in 1 154 is the following : ** Ba'albakk i> a forufied town on the mountain flank. It is surrounded by a"wall of fortifi- cation, built of stone that is 20 spans f ' ^fTfr) in width. Water run.s through the town, and passes also through most of the houses. On the river near the town are mills and water-wheels. The place has many crops, luxuriant vegetation, and quantities of fruit. The presses overflow with grapes, and there arc trees that give all sorts of edible fruits, so that provisions are cheap. At Ba'albakk are the most wonderful edifices and ruins, which are everywhere ^ celebrated for their magnificence and the solidity of their con- struction. There are especially two wonderful buildings that | were theatres (a/ MaVabain), one the larger, the other the smaller. The larger, it is said, was built in the days of Solomon, the son of David, and it is most wondrous to look on. There are in it stones of the length of 10 cubits, some more, some less. And there is also a part that is built up on high columns, and most Digitized by Google LEGENDS AND MARVELS. 297 astonishing to behold. The smaller theatre is, for the greater part, fallen into ruin, and its glories are of the past. 'I'here is standing at the i)resent time but a portion of its wall, of the length of 30 cubits. It rises to a height above the floor of 20 cubits, and there are in its construction but seven stones, one stone being at the bottom, and two stones lying thereon, and four stones being placed on the two. In this town of Ba'albakk are all sorts of other wondrous buildings." (Id., 15.) Vdk(kt speaks in general terms of the wonderful remains at Ba'albakk, consisting of palaces with marble columns : The city,*' he says, "lies 12 leagues distant from the sea-coast, and 3 days from I>ama.scus. Ba*a/ was the name of an idol, and Hakk is its neck, or the thin part of its body. They say Ba'al- bakk formed the dowry of Queen Balkis (of Sheba), and that Solomon's palace here was the one built on columns. Ba'albakk, at the Muslim conquest, caijitul.iied alter I )ainas( us was taken. Jabal Sanir belonged to liialhakk. The (ircikh huilt an idol trmpic here. Ba'al was the idol of the people, to whom the i'it>j)liet lliyas (Elias) was seat. There are two temples here — one larger, one smaller — filled with wonderful sculptures carved in the stone as though it were wood, and high columns." (Yak., i. 672, 675 : Mar , i, 162.) " Ba'all)akk, ■ writes Dimashki, "is a very ancient city, with remains of the times of Abraham, Moses, Solomon, and the (•reeks. There are here columns reaching a height of 40 ells, not counting the bases, which are buried under ground. The«e are held together above by great hloi ks of stone, going from capital to capital. In the Castle of Ba'albakk are two towers, in the wall of which are three great stones, each stone measuring 36 paces in length, and nearly twice a man's height in thickness, and as broad as the walls themselves. In the castle is a well called Btr ar Rahmah (the Well of Mercy) ; and they say there is never water in it so long as peace lasts, but when a siege takes place, and terrors b^n, it fills with water, which supplies the people till peace is made, when the water ag^in disappears." (Dim , 199.) Abu-1 Fida, writing in i^ar, afew years later than Dimashki, Digitized by Google 298 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. says: '* Ba'albakk, in the T>ainascus Province, lies among the hills. It is a very ancient city, having walls and a strong fortress very well built. It jiossesses trees, and streams, and springs, and is filled with good things. Muhallabi says that of old it was a very beautiful city, being the place of sacrifice of the Sabaeans. One of their temples, which was held in high honour, was here. From Ba'albakk to Az ZahsndSaii is 18 miles." (A. F., 255.) Ba'albakk was visited in 1355 by Ibn tiatdtah. He describes it as "^a fine city, surrounded by gardens and orchards that almost equal those of Damascus. There are here cherries called Habb al Muldk (King's Cherries), such as are found nowhere else. There is, too^ a kind of Diis (molasses), called after Ba'albakk, which is a syrup made from raisins, and they add thereto a powder which makes it harden. Afterwards they break the pot in which it is made, and it remains all of one piece; Ffom it is made a sweetmeat called Al Halwah, by putting in pistachios and almonds. This sweetmeat is named also Al Mulabban. They call it also Jald al Faras (Pern's egui). They make in Ba'albakk stufls for clothes, also wooden platters and spoons. These last are made to fit one inside the other, in nests, to the numtier of ten.*' <L B., i. 185.) BAIT LAHM (KETHLEHKM). "The village of Bait Lahin lies 6 miles to the south of Jerusalem. It is the birthplace of Jesus, and there is shown here in the church a portion of the palm-tree from the fruit of which Mary ate. l his is much venerated, and is preserved with every care." (Is., 57 : I, H., 112; copied by A. K, 141.) "Bait I^hni," says Mukaddasi. "is a village about a league from Jerusalem, in the direction of Hebron. Jesus was Iwrn here, whereupon there grew up here the palm-tree (mentioned in the Kurdn, .xix. 25) ; for although in this district palms are never found, this one grew by a miracle. Phere is also a church (the Basilica of Constantine), the equal of which does not exist any* where in the country round." (Muk., 172.) The traveller N^ir-i Khusrau visited Bethlehem in 1047. He writes in his Diary : At the distonce of a league from the Holy LEGENDS AND MARVELS. 399 City is a place belonging to the Christians, which they hold in greatest veneration ; and there are always numerous pilgrims of their people who come hither to perform the visitation. The place is called Bait al Lahm (Bethlehem). The Christians hold a festival here, and many will come for it all the way from RQm (or the Greek Empire). The day I myself left the Holy City I passed the night at Bethlehem." (N. Kh., 53.) Idrisi, in 1154, gives the following account of Uethlehtm, derived j)robably fioiii Lliiisiian pilgrims whom he met in Sicily : "Bail Lahm is the place where the Lord Messiah was horn, and it lies 6 miles distant from Jerusalem. Half-way down the road is the tonib of Rachel (Rahil), the mother of Joseph and of iknjaiiiin, the two sons of Jacob peace upon them all I The tomb is covered by twelve stones, and above it is a dome vaulted over with stones. At Ik'thlehem is a church that is beautifully built, of solid foundation, spacious, and finely (jrnanu iued even to the uttermost, so that nowhere among all other churches can be seen its equal. It is situated in a low lying piece of ground. The gate thereof is towards the west, and there are (in the church) marble columns of perfect beauty. In one angle of the choir {if/ Haikal)^ towards the north, is a cave wherein the Lord Messiah was born. It lies below the church, and in this cave is the manger wherein the Messiah was found. As you go out from Bethlehem, you see towards the east the Church of the Angels, who told the good news of the birth of the Lord Messiah to the shepherds." (Id, 9.) ''Between Jerusalem and Bethlehem,*' writes *Ali of Herat, ** is the tomb of R&htl (Rachel), mother of Joseph. Bait Lahm is the name of the village where Jesus was bom. There are here the tombs of David and Solomon — peace be on them both! There ts also a church most wonderfully built with marble, and gold mosaics, and columns. The date of its building is more than 1200 years ago,* as is shown by an inscription on a wooden beam, which has not suffered damage even down to our own days. There is here the place of the palm-tree mentioned in the Kurin, * The Batdlioi was built by Constanline about 330 a.d. 300 V A LEST INF. UNDER THE MOSLEMS. also the Mihrftb of the Khalif 'Omar, which has in no wise been damaged by the Franks.*' (A. H., Oxf. MS*, folio 41 v.) *' Bait Lahm," writes Y&kOt in the thirteenth centur)', is the place where Jesus was bom.* It is a town near Jerusalem. There are fine markets here. There was here the palm-tree men- tioned in the Kurftn. Palms do nit come to maturity in these regions, and this one is an exception. It is mentioned in the Kur&n, and gave dates to Mary when she fled into Eg)-pt, being a miracle vouchsafed to her — so runs the legend. There is here a Church, the like of which is none other in the country round. When the Khalif 'Omar was conic to Jerusalem, a monk of Bait I ^hm approached hirn and said, ' I would obtain mercy of thee for Bait Lahm.' Said 'Omar, 'I know nought of the ])lare, but would fain see it.' When 'Omar was come there, he said to the jyeoplc, ' ^'e shall have mercy and safe conduc t, but it is incum- betu upon us that in every place where there are Christians we should ereet a mosque.* The monk answered, ' There is in Bait l^hm an arched building {lianijyah)^ which is built so as to be turned towards your Kib'ah; take this, therefore, and make of it a mosque for the Muslims, and do not destroy the church.' So 'Omar spared the church, saying his prayer in that arched building, and made of it a mosque, laying on the Christians the service of lighting it with lamps and keeping the building clean and in repair. The Muslims have never ceased to visit Bait Lahm (in pilgrimage), and go to this arched building to make their prayers therein, one generation after the other, which same is the building of 'Omar. It is well known by this name down to the present day, for the Franks (Crusaders) changed nought when they took the country. They say there are here the tombs of David and of Solomon — peace be on them!" (Yak., i. 779; Mar., L 187.) * It is, perhaps, not uninteresting to note that Y&ki'it also <>pcnks of Ahnrs, in Kj:>'pt, to the west of the Nile, and not far from Fustat (old Cairo), .ts the place vvhcie lh«f Messiah was saifl \v, hnve been Ixsrii. *' Mary, furlhtr, rcinaiutd there till lie was grown and then set out for Syria." (Yak., i. 409; Mar., i. 105.) The palm-tree mentioned in the Koran, xix. 25, was, writes YtkAt, shown here. Digitized by Google LEGENDS AND MARVELS, 301 NASIRAH (NAZAKtTH). Mas*Odi in 945 writes : *'It is said that the Messiah lived at a village called N&8iiah» which is in the district of Al LajjAn (Legio» Megiddo) of the Jordan Province ; also that the Christians (An Nasraniyyah) are called so from this place. I myself have seen in this village a church greatly venerated by the Christians. There are here sarco- phagi of stone, in which are dead men's bones^ and from out these flows a thick oil, like syrup, with which the Christians anoint them- selves for a blessing." (Mas., i, 123.) "An Nasirah," writes 'Ali of Herat in 1173, "is the city in which is the house of Maryam, danghter of 'AmdLn, and from hero she came. Tlie Christians are called after this place. Jabal Sa'ir is near by." {\. H., Oxf. MS., folio 31.) "An Nasirah," says Yakftt, "is a villai;c lying 13 miles distant from Tabari) yah. Here was born the Messiah 'Isa (Jesus), the .Son of Marvam — peace be upon Him! — and from the name Ot Nasirah comes the name f>f the Na>aiiyyah (Nazarenes, or Chris- tians). l»ui the i)c()ple t)f tins place cast dishonour upon Maryam, saymg that from all time lu) virgin had ever borne a eiiild. I'hey have there an orange tree, alter the likeness (jf a woman, i his orange-tree has two breasts, and what resembles hands and feel, and the nether parts also are as those of a woman ; also the government of this place is with the women, J'he orange-tree is (as a holy relic), procuring blessings to the people from Heaven, and none of the people of Nazareth reject participation therein. The people of Jerusalem, however, deny all this, and say that the Messiah was born in Bethlehem, of which fact they have manifest relics among them. Further, they say that His mother took Him and went to dwell in this village (of N^irah). I, YlkkOt, may add that the text of the Evangel is that 'Isi (Jesus) — peace be upon Him l^was bom in Bethlehem ; but that YAsuf, the husband of Maryam, feared the wiles of H^Qdus (Herod), King of the Magians ; and he came to know in a dream that he must carry his Son down into Kgypt for a time, until it should be again com- manded him to return with the child And so it was that it might PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, be fulfilled what ilic Lord had made known by the tongue of the Prophet when He spake, ' Verily, I will call my Son out Egypt.' So Joseph remained in Egypt till Hanklus was dead; then he received in a dream the order to return to the land of the Bani Israil. He arrived at the Holy City, but feared to remain tiiere, it having been the place of dwelling of HarAdus ; then it was revealed to him again in a dream that he should depart into Al JaiU ((>alilee), and he went there, and settled in the town called N&sirah/' (Yak., iv. 729 ; Mar., iii. 190.) "An Nisirah," says Dimashki, "belongs to the Safad Province. It is a Hebrew city, and was called Sa'ir (Seir). Here the Messiah appeared, it being also the place where the angels announced His birth to Mary. It is a well-known place of pilgrimage for the Christians, and is mentioned in the Pentateuch. Jabal as Sdtr (Mount Seir, mentioned in the Kutin) is the mountain of Nazareth. The people of Nazareth were those who first became Christians. The Arab population of Nazareth were Yamanite tribes, while those of Kafar Kanni were Kaisites.** (Dim., 912.) Digitized by Google CHAPTER VIII. PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. Ar Rtmlah^ fimnded the Khalif Sulaimftn— The White Mosque. Hehvn : The Tombs of the Palriarchs — Visits lo the Cave of Machjiclah— Inven. lion of the Toiub of Joseph. Atre {' AkVah) : Constnirfif.n uf the Tort by Ihn Tuliin. Ttlhrioi (Taboriyyah) : The Thermal Sprin|;s and iiaths — The Tomb of David. AR RAMLAH. "Thk capital of the i'rovincc of Filastin ; it was founded by ihc Kiialil Sulaiinati. The Uih.ibitants of Ludd (Lyddaj -the former capital — were removed hither, and Lydda fell to decay. It has a small river, the water of which the inhabitants drmk ; the river Abu Futrus is 12 miles off. The po|)ulation of Ar Ramlah obtain also their drinking-water both from wells and from cisterns, where they store up the rains. The population of Ar Kamlah is mixed Arabs and Greeks, also Samariums." (Yb., 116.) "The Khalif al Walid," says Biladhuri, "made his brother Sulaimlin Governor of the Province of Filastin, who took up his residence at Lydda. Sulaiman subsequently founded the town of Ar Kamlah, and made it his capital. The first building raised here was his palace {jtasr)^ and the house caUed Dir as Sabb^hin (the House of the Dyers). In this last he constructed a huge dstem to serve to store water. Then Sulaimin planned the Mosque^ and began to build it, but he succeeded to the Khaliiate before it was completed. "Othere of the Khalifs after him continued the building. The Khalif 'Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aztz finished it, but only after having diminished the original plan, and he said, 'The people of Ar Digitized by Google J04 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Raiiilah should be content with the size thereof to which I have diminished it.' Now when Sulaiman was building his own palaces, he gave leave to the people to build houses for themselves also, and so they did. And he dug for the people of Ar Ramlah the water-channel called Baradah, and he also dug wells for sweet water. "Sulainian appointed as his secretary to oversee the expenses of his buildings in Ar Ramlah and for the Jami' Mosque a certain Christian of Lydda called Al Batrik ibn an Nakah (or Al Bakah). Ar Ramlah had not existed before the days of Sulaim&n, and the place was all sandy (as the name Ar Ramlah shows). The D&r as Sabb&gh came afterwards by inheritance to the Abbaside Salih ibn 'Ali ibn 'Abd Allah tbn al ^Abbas, for it was taken with their other possessions from the Bani Omayyah. Now the Bani Omayyah had spent much money on the wells of Ar Ramlah, and the water-channels, after Sulaimfin's days, and when the Abbasides came to reign, they also spent latge sums thereon — and so from one Khalif on to another. So matters stood until the days of the Khalif Al Mu'tasim billah, and he gave a per- manent decree for these expenses, and in order to save the con- tinual petitions there anent, commuted the grant into an annual charge to be defrayed by the lax farmers, and to be accounted for by them. (Hi I., 143, repeated by 1. F,, 102, and copied into Vak., II. 817.) *• Ar Ramlah, ' says Mukaddasi in tiie tcinii century, ** is the capital of i\ilestine. It is a fine city, and well l)inlt ; its w\iter is good and plentiful ; its fruits are abundant. It combines manifold advantages, situated as it is in the midst of beautiful villages and lordly towns, near to holy places and pleasant hamlets. Com- merce here is prosperous, and the markets excellent. There is no finer mosque in Islam than the one in this city. The bread is of the best and the whitest. The lands are well favoured above all others, and the fruits are of the most luscious. This capital stands among fruitful fields, walled towns, and serviceable hospices. It possesses magnificent hostelries and pleasant baths, dainty food d various condiments, spacious houses^ fine mosques, and broad ids. As a capital it possesses many advantages. It is situated Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 30$ on the plnin. and is yet near both to the mountains and the sea. There grow botn tig-trees and palms ; its fields need no irrigation, and arc by nature fruitful and rich. The disadvantages, on the other hand, are that in winter the })lace is a slough of mud ; while in summer it is a powder-box of sand, where no water flows, neither is anything green, nor is the soil humid, nor does snow ever fall Fleas here abound. The wells are deep and salt, and the rain-water is hoarded in closed cisterns— hence the |vior go thirsty, and strangers seek water in vain. In the baths a fee has tx> be paid before the servants will turn the water-wheels. The city occupies the area of a square mile ; its houses are built of finely-quarried stones. The best known among its gates are the Gate of the Soldier's Well (Darb Bir al ^Askar), the Gate of the 'Annabah Mosque, the Gate of Jerusalem, the Gate of Bila'ah, the Lydda Gate (Darb Ludd)^ the Jaffa Gate {Dart Y&fA), the Egypt Gate (Darb Misr\ and the DdjOn Gate. Close to Ar Rarolah is the town of DajOn, with its mosque. It is inhabited mostly by Samaritans. The chief mosque of Ar Ramlah is in the market, and it is even more beautiful and graceful than that of Damascus. It is called Al Abyad (the White Mosque). In all Islam there is found no finer Mihrdb than the one here, and its juiljiit IS the most splendid to be seen after tiiat of Jerusalem ; also It possesses a beautiful minaret, built by the Khalif Hisham ibn 'Abd al Malik. I have heartl my uncle relate that when this Khalif was about to build the minaret, it was rejK)rted to him that the Christians possessed columns of marble, at this time lying buried beneath the sand, whi( h they had prepared for the CTnrrch of Bairah. Thereupon the Khalif Hisham informed the Christians that either they must show hi»n where these columns lay, or that he would demoTisb'their church, at, Lydda, and employ fis columns for the building of his mosque. So the Christians pointed out where they had buried their columns. They are very thick, and tall, and beautifuL The covered portion (or main- building) of the mosque is flagged with marble, and the court with other stone, all carefully laid together. The gates of the main-building are made of cypress-wood and cedar, carved in the inner parts, and very beautiful in appearance.*' (Muk., 164.) 20 Digitized by Google 306 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. In his introductory chapter, Mukaddasi writes : ** If Ar RaiviUh lud only running water, tlie town would be, w;t[iout compare, the finest in Islam ; for it is a pleasant and a fine city, standing between Jerusalem and the frontier towns, between the Ghaur of the Jordan and the sea. Its climate is mild : its fnn'ts are luscious ; its people generous — being, however, also rather foolish. It is the emporium for Egypt, and an excellent commercial station for two seas." (Muk., 36.) Most of the gates mentioned by Mukaddasi may be easily identified. Regarding the (iate of the 'Annabah Mosque, it is to be noted that the village of 'Annabah lies west of Ar Kamlah. In St. Jerome's Onomasticon it is mentioned under the name of Anal), which was also called Betho Annaba.* The Gate of Ar Ramlah, called Darb fiila'ah, and the village of Bdli'ah, mentioned in the above account, refer probably (but the reading is somewhat unoertain) to the Biblical "Baaiah, which is Kirjath Jearim " {Joshua xv. 9). This place has been identified with the modern Kari'at al 'Inab (see Part IL>, where may still be seen the ruins of the Church of St Jeremiah, possibly the one alluded to by Mukaddasi The next account of Ramlah is from the Diary of NAsir-i- Khusrau, who visited the city in 1047. He writes : ** Sunday, the day of the new moon of the month of Ramaddn (March 1). we came to Ramlah. From Caesarea to Ramlah is 8 leagues. Ramlah is a great city, with strong walls built of stone, mortared, of great height and Lhickness, \\\[\\ iron gates opening therein. From liic town to the sea-coast is a distance of 3 leagues. '1 he inhabitants get their water from the rainfall, and in each house is a tank for storing the same, in order that there may always he a supply. In the middle of the Fridny Mosque, also, is a large tank ; and from it, wlien it is filled with water, anyone who wishes may take. The area of the mostjue measures 200 paces by 300 paces. Over one of its porches is an inscription, stating that on Muharram 15, of the year 425 (Decembo: 10^ • See further on the two places callc 1 P,tho Anuai'a and Beth Annadam in the raltstim hx^iorcUion i urni S/enal J'a/erSf p. 250. Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 307 1033), there was an earth(iuake* of great violence, which threw down a large number of buildings, l>ut that no .-single i)crson sustained any injury. In the city of Ramlah there is marble in plenty, and most of the l)uildirms and private houses are of this material; and, furtlier, the surface thereof they do most beautifully sculpture and ornament. They cut the marble here with a tooth- less saw, which is worked witli ' \fakkah sand.* They saw the marble not in the cross, but in the length— as is the case with wood — ^to form the columns; also, they cut it into slabs. The marbles that I saw here were of all colours, some variegated,, some green, red, black, and white. There is, too^ at Ramlah a particular kind of fig, than which no better exists anywhere, and this they export to all the countries round. This city of Ramlah, throughout Syria and the West, is known under the name of Filasttn, the name of the province beii^ transferred to its capital town." (N. Kh., 21.) "Ar Ramlah," reports Idilst, "is a fine and populous town, having markets, and much merchandise and traffic." (Id., 4.) Ydk(kt repeats the account given by Bilftdhuri and Ibn al Fakih (already quoted) of the foundation of Ar Ramlah by Sulaim&n, son of the Khalif 'Abd al Malik, and of his buildings there. After stating ihaL Suiainian also laid the plan of the mosque, aud began to erect it, he continues : "The immediate cause of the building of the mosque there was this. A certain scribe of the name of Ibn Batrik demanded of the people of Ludd that they should give him a certain house that stood near the Church (of Lydda), in order that he might turn it into an abode for himself. But the people refused it him. Then said he, ' By Allah, then will T pull down that other !' — meaning the church. And so it came about, for at this time Sulaiman was saying to-himself, * Behold the Commander of the Faithful that was — namely, 'Abd al Malik— did build in the Mosque (or Haram Area) of the Holy City a Dome over the Rock, and thereby obtained fame to himself; and, further, the • This earthquake is menuoned by ihe Arab annaibts, who slate that a third of Ramlah u as thrown down, the mosque in particalftr being left a mere heap of rains. See p. 101. 20 — 2 Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Khaltf Al Walid hath buUt a mosque in Damascus, and obtained &me thereby unto himself also — why should not I, too, build a mosque and a city, and transport the people thither?' So he founded the city of Ar Kaiiilah, and built the moscjuc there : and this was the cau.se ot the ruin of the city of Ludd uir 1 of the church there). Now, when Al Walid was dead, Sulauiian had l)ecome Khalif. The land round these parts was sand, but Sulainian laid out the j)lan of the new city, and turned a place in the town of Ar Ranilah that had belonged to the Dyers into wells of sweet water ; for, be it known, Ar Ramlah did not exist before the days of this Sulainian. And he gave leave to the people to build, and they built in the city ; and Sulaiman dug for them the water channel which went by the name of Baradah. He dug also wells of sweet water." The account goes on as given above, p, 304, after which Yakut continues : "The drinking-water of the people now (1225) is from wells that are brackish. Those who are rich have a cistem, and lock it up. It may be noted that most towns that have cisterns possess good fruits and a tine climate (since there is no stagnant water). Saladin freed Ar Ramlah in 583 (1187), but laid the town in ruins, fearing the Franks should master the place a second time; and it has remained in a state of ruin down to the present day." (Y&k , ii. 817 ; Mar., i. 483.) YakOt states that *' 'Askar is the name of one of the quarters of Ar Ramlah.*' (Ydk., iii. 674 ; Mar., ii. 258.) The name is men- tioned also by Mukaddasi, and from it the CSate of Ramlah, called Darb Bir al 'Askar, probably took its name. (See above, p. 305.) Abu-1 I^da gives a su miliary of parts of the above, but add* nothing new. ( A. I'. 241.) Kamlah was visited by Ibn Batutah in 1355. He speaks of it as : " A large town. There is here the Jdmi' al Abyad (the \\ hue Mosque). They say that in the Kiblah part three hundred pro- phets lie buried/' (I. B , i. 12^.) Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOIVNS. 309 HEBRON. The Arabs gave this town the name of Masjid Ibrahim, or the Mosque of Abraham, and also knew it as Habrd, and HabrCin. " Masjid Ibrfthtm," write Istakhri and Ibn Haukal, in the eighth century, " lies to the south of Bethlehem. In the Mosque» where Friday prayer is said, are the tombs of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob* They lie in a row, and beside each of these is placed the tomb of his wife. This city lies in a valley between hills. It has many trees round it. The trees here^as also in other hilly parts of Kilastin— are chiefly olive and fig-trees, also sycamores, vine^ and carobs. Other species are of rare occurrence." (Is., 57 ; I. H. 1 i.^i) Mukaddasi, writing in 985, says : *' Habrd (Hebron) is the village of Abraham, the Friend of (iod. Within it is a strong fortress, wliich, it is said, is of the building of ■ the Jimis. hcing of great stjuarcd stoiicjs. in ihc middle of this phu c rises the Dome, built of stone and since the times of Islam — which covers the sepulchre of Abraham. The tomb of Isaac h*es forwnrd, within the main-building of the Mosque, while that of jarol) is in the building at the bark. Nearby to each of these prophtu lies his wife. The garden round has become the mosqiu - rniiri, and built in it arc the rest-houses for the pilgrim'^, whicli thus adjoin Sanctuary. Thither also has been conducted a small water-channel. All the country round Hebron, for the distance of half a stage, is filled with villages and vineyards, and grounds bearing grapes and apples ; it is even as though it were all but a single orchard of vines and fruit-trees The district goes by the name of Jabal Nusrah. Its equal for beauty does not exist eise^ where, nor can any fruits be finer. A great part of them is sent . away to Egypt and into aU the country round. At times, here, apples of good quality will sell at a thousand for the Dirham (ten pence), and the weight of a single apple occasionally will attain to the equivalent of a hundred Dirhams (between ten and eleven ounces). In the Sanctuary at Hebron is a public guest-house, with a kitchener, a baker, and servants appointed thereto. These present a dish of lentils and olive-oil to every poor pilgrim who arrives, and it is even set before the rich if perchance they desire Digitized by Google 310 • . PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. to partake of it. Most men erroneously imagine that this dole is of the original Guest-house of Abraham, but in truth the funds come from the bequests of a certain (Companion of the Prophet) Taroim ad Diri, and others It so being in my opinion it were better to abstain from receiving these alms (lest the money have been unlawfully gained). Also there was once an Amir of Khu- rasan— may Allah have confiimed his dominion ! — ^who assigned to this charity a thousand Dirhams yearly (or £40) ; and further, Al 'Adil, the Shar, the Ruler of GhuijistAn, left great bequests to this house. At the present day, in all Islam, I know of no charity or almsgiving that is better regulated than is this one i for those who travel and are hungry may eat here of good food, and thus is the custom of Abraham continued, for he, during his lifetime, rejoiced in the giving of hospitality, and, after his death, Allah — may He be exalted ! — has thus allowed the custom to be per- petuated ; and I myself, MLikiddajii, in niv travels, have thus been a partaker, so to speak, of the hospitality of the Friend of God." (Muk., 172.) Nasir-i-Khusrau visited Hebron in 1043. account in his Diary is as follows : " From Jerusalem to Hebron is six leagues, and the road runs towards the south. Along the way are many villages with gardens and cultivated fields. Such trees as need little water, as, for example, the vine and the fig, the olive and the sumach, grow here abundantly, and of their own accord. "The people of Syria, and the inhabitants of the Holy City, call the Sanctuary (or Mash-had at Hebron) Khalil (that is, *the Friend ' of Allah, Abraham) — His blessing be upon him ! — and they never make use of the real name of the village, which name is MatlAn.* l*his Sanctuary has belonging to it very many villages that provide revenues for pious purposes. At one of these villages is a spring, where water flows out from under a stone, but in no great abundance ; and it is conducted by a channel, cut in the ground, to a place outside the town (of Hebron), where they have * Hebron in the early Arab annals is given ns clivided into four quarters or villages: Ilabrun, Martum, Bait 'Aimin, and Bait Ibrahim. Mallun is doubt* less a corruption of the second of these names. Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. Jtl constructed a covered tank for collecting the water, so that none may run to waste, and that the people of the town, and the pil- grims, may be able to supply their wants. The Sanctuary (Mash- had) stands on the southern border of the town, and extends towards the south-east.* The Sanctuary is enclosed by four walls, built of sfjuared ma.sonry, and in its upper part (the area) measures 80 cubits long by 40 cubits across. f The height of the (exterior) wal^s is 20 cubits, and at their summit the width of the walls is 2 cubits. The Mihiib (or niche) and the MaksQrah (or enclosed space for Friday-prayers) stand in the width of the building (at the south end)4 In the Maksdrah are many fine Mihrabs. There are two tombs occupying the MaksArah, laid so that their heads lie towards the Kiblah-potnt (south). . Both these tombs are covered by cenotaphs, built of squared stone as high as a man. That lying on the right hand (to the west. Plan, J) is the grave of Isaac, son of Abraham; and that on the left (or to the east. Plan, I) is the grave of his wife (Rebecca) — ^peace be upon them \ Between the two graves may measure the space of about to cubits, in this part of the Sanctuary the floor and the walls are adorned with precious carpets and Maghribi matting that is more costly than brocade. I saw here a piece of matting, serving as a prayer- rug, which they told me the Amir al JuyOsh (or Captain-General), in the service of the Sultan of Egypt, had >L ni liither ; and they said that at Cairo this prayer-rug had been bought for thirty gold • The exact orientation of the quaflrangk- is fifty degrees true bearing, and consequently the j^reat Mihrab of the Kihlah | mint Jtes almost exactly south-east. t The exact dimensions exUrttaliy of the Haram walls, as measured by their R<qral Highnesses Prince Albert Victor and Prince Geotge of Wales, during their visit in 1882, are 197 feet by III feet. NAsir*s measurement is some- what umler the real size. Tlie average height t'xternnlly of the andcnt (or Herodiaii?) walls is 40 feet, or 20 culiits, as stated in the text. % The present building, known as the Church, dates from the lime of the Ousadevs. The building Ni«r saw has disappeared. The late Mr. Feigusaoo atatei in his book on The Boty Sipt$lekrt mut the Temple at Jenuabm^ p^ 137 (Appendix J ). " I ascertained with certainty that there was nothing inside the enclosure older than the Cruside?. The (.othic buildini:^ which occupies the whole of the southern end was certainly erected either in the last half of the twelfth or the first half of the thirteenth century. ' The Maksdrah " of Ndsir it probably the same building as the Dome " mentioned by Mukaddasi. See Digitized by Google 312 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. KEFEKENCES TO Tin: F'LAX OF THE SANCTUAkV AT HEBRON AT THE J'KESENT DAY. A. Kntnmce to the Western Cave. B. Entrance to the Eastern Cave. C. Hole in the floor, leading to a diamber. D. Hole in the WalU opening into the Western Cave. £. Dome. F. Greek Inscription. G. Arabic Inscription, on a pier. H. Greek Inscription, on the wall. I. Cenotaph of Rebecca. J. „ of Isaac. K. Mimbar. or I'tilpit. L. Reading-desk. M. Cenotaph of Sarah. N. „ of Abraham. O. „ of Leah. P. of Jacoix (). Tomb of Joseph. R. Door leadinjj to ihe same. .S. Window opening iniu the same. T. IMer. L'. Minarei. V. Minaret. W. Wstibule. X. Entrance (jate. Digitized by Google FALEHIINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Maghrib! Dinars (or about ;^i5). Now, the same quantity of Rijmi (or Greek) brocade would not have cost so mucli, and the equal of this mat I never saw elsewhere. " Leaving the Mak^uiah, you find in the court of the Sanctuary two buildings. I'acing the Kiblah-point (south), the one lying on the right hand (or to the west, Plan. N), contains the tomb of Abraham, the Friend of Allah — His blessing he upon him ! This building is of such a size as to allow of there being within it another building, which you cannot enter, but which has in its walls four windows, through which the pilgrims, when standing round it, may look and view the tomb that is within. The walls and the floor of this chamber are covered with brocade stuffs, and the cenotaph is made of stone, measuring 3 ells (in length), with many silver lamps and lanterns hung above it. The other edifice, lying on the left hand as you face the Kiblah (or on the eastern side, Plan^ M), has within it the Tomb of Sarah, the wife of Abraham — ^peace be upon him I Between the two edifices is the passage-way that leads to both, and this is like a hall, and here also are suspended numerous lamps and lanterns. " After passing by these two edifices, you come to two other sepulchral chambers lying close one to another. That to the^ right (or on the west side, Plan, P), contains the Tomb of the Prophet Jacob — peace be upon him ! — and that to the left (or east side. Plan, O), the Totnb of his wife (I^h). Beyond this again arc other buildings, where Abraham — the blessing of Allah be upon him ! — was wont to dispense his hospiiaat) , but within the Sanctuary there are these six tombs onlv. Outside the four walls (of the .Sanctuary) the ground slopes away, and here on the (west) side (Plan, ()) is the sepulchre of Joseph, the son of Jacol) -peace be upon them both ! — over whose gravestone they have built a beautiful dome. On this side, where the ground is level — that is, beyond the sepulchre of Joseph, and the Sanctuary— lies a great cemetery, whither they bring the dead from many parts to be buried. " On the flat roof of the Maksiirah, in the (Hebron) Sanctuary, they have built osWs for the reception of the pilgrims who come hither: and the revenues of this charity are considerable, being Digitized by Google PROVWCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNH. 3»5 derived from villages and houses in tlie Holy Cily. They grow at Hebron for the most part barley, wheat being rare ; but olives are in abundance. The pilgrims, and voyagers, and otlier guests (of the Sanctuary) are given bread and olives. There are very many mills here, worked by oxen and mules, that all day long grind the flour ; and, further, there are slave-girls who, during the whole day, are bakmg the bread. The loaves they make here are each of them of a Mann weight (or about three pounds), and to every person who arrives they give daily a loaf of bread, and a dish of lentils cooked in olive-oil, also some raisins. This practice has been in usage from the days of (Abraham) the Friend of the Merciful — ^peace be upon him ! — even down to the present hour ; and there are some days when as many as five hundred pilgrims arrivep to each of whom this hospitality is offered " It is said that in early times the Sanctuary (at Hebron) had no door into it, and hence that no one could come nearer to (the tombs) than the outer porch, whence, from outside, they per- formed their visitation. When, however, the (Fatimite Khalif) Mahdi came to the throne of Egypt (in a.d. 918), he gave orders that a door should be opened (into the Sanctuary), and he pro- vided utensils and carpets and rugs, besides causing many (con- venient) edifices to be built The entrance-door of the Sanctuary is in the middle of the northern wall, and is four ells above the ground. On either side ol ii arc sione steps, one stairway for going up, and one for coming down ; and the gateway is closed by a small iron door." (Kh., 53-58.) It is worthy of note that the only doorway that pierces the Haram walls at the present day is that found at about the centre of the eastern wall. As, however, the Kibiah point is really south- east— though Nasir always speaks of it as soi.th- the long wall of the Haram on the left-hand (facing the Kibiah) is, in truth, the north-east wall, and a door in it might be said to face norths for north-east In 1099 Hebron came into the hands of the Crusaders, and was bestowed a year later by Godfrey de Bouillon in lief on Gerhard d'Avennes. Idrlst, writing in 1 154, has the following account : Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, "Masjid Ibrahini lies about i8 miles to the south of Beth- lehem. It is a village that has become a city. In its mosque are the tombs of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob — peace be upon them ! ' -and over against each is the tomb of his wife, as a companion thereto. The town lies in a valley between the hills, possessing trees of all sorts, such as olives and figs and sycamores, and many kinds of fruits." (Id , 9.) 'All of Herat, writing in 1 173, fifteen years before Hebron was retaken by Saladin, gives the following account of what he himself saw at Hebron some years before, while the town was still in the hands of the Crusaders. *Ali*s account has been copied by Ydkflt (YSk., ii. 468) ; the present translation is made from the text of the Oxford Manuscript of 'Ali's work (folios 4.V45)- " At I khron, Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, and Sarah are buried, as also, it is said, are Adam, Noah, and Shem. "When I was al Alexandria in the vear 570 (1175 A.D., other MSS. gj/e A.H. 575), I heard a book read in the presence of the oliaikh llafi/ Abu 'J'ahir as Snlafi, })iit the name of the author of the work has now escaped me. And i)y mischance nil my books were taken from me by the Franks, at the time of the battle of Khi]wnilifah, when they fought under the command of Al Inkit^ (Richard Cceur de Lion), the King of the Franks. His mes- sengers came to me afterwards, and promised the return of what had been seized, and even the double of it should be given me; • but he desired as a condition that I should go and join him, and that I would not consent to do. All this took place in the year 588(1192). In the work above mentioned, the author states that a certain man, being of a mind to make his visitation at Hebron, gave large sums in presents to the guardians (of the shrine), and had asked one of them, who was a Greek, whether it were not possible for him to take him down to see the (body of the) Patriarchs -on whom be [leace ! The man replied that at that time it was not possible, but tliat if he would wait till the press of pilgrims was over, that he could then do it. And so (when tiie time of the pilgrimage) was passed, the i^u irdian rai.sed up a .stone flag (in the floor of the Mosque), and taking a lamp with him, he and the Digitized by Google PROVINCiAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 317 other descended some seventy stL i>> to a spacious cavern. The air here was hinwinii frceiv. and there was a phittbrni on which lay extended (the bod\ of) Abraham — peace be on hini ! — clothed in green garments, and the wind as it blew tossed about his white locks. At his side lay Isaac and Jacob. And tiie guide went on vrith him to a wall in xhv rnvem, telling him that behind the wall lay Sarah, and he bad in intention to show him what was beyond the wall, but lo I a voice cried out, saying, * Beware^ far it is the Haram t The narrator added that he returned, and came up by the way he had gone down. I have read in the books of Moses that Al Khalll (Abraham, the friend of God) bought a piece of ground from Afriin ibn Sdh&r al Haitht (Ephion, the son of Sochar the Hittite) for 400 Dirhams of silver, and buried therein Sarah. Such is the account in the Pentateuch, but Allah alone knows the truth. And I, 'All of Herat — may Allah pardon me my sins 1 — do relate the following of my own experience : "I went to Jerusalem in the year 567 {1172), and both there and at Hebron I made the acquaintance of certain Shaikhs, who informed me that [in the year 5 13 (1 1 19)]* diirmg the reign of King Bardawil (Baldwin II.) a certain part over the Cave of Abraham had given way, and that a niimI)Lr of the Franks had, by the King's permission, made their entrance therein. And they discovered (the bodies of) \t)rahnm and Isaai and Jacob - peace l)e upon them !— their shrouds having fallen to pieces, lymg propped up against a wall. Over each of their heads were napkins [or lamps], and their heads were uncovered. Then the King, after providing new shrouds, caused the place to be closed once more. And this was in the year 513 (11 19). "The Knight BabDn (other .\IS. Birun), who dwelt in Bait Lahm (Bethlehem), and held a high position among the Franks, on account of his knightly deeds and valour, related to me that he had entered this cave with his father. And he saw Abraham the friend and Isaac and Jacob — iieace be upon them!— and their heads were uncovered. Now I said to him, *■ What was thy age • '} i»c words in s(|uarc bracket* [ J are in>erte<l from Vdkut'b text, ami are not fuand in the Oxford MS. Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, at this time?' and he answered, 'Thirteen years.* Further, he told me that the Knight Jufrt (Geofrey) ibn Jaij (George) was one of those whom King (Baldwin) commissioned with the renewal of the Patriarch's garments, and with the rebuilding of such of the edifice as had given way, and further, that this Juffl was still alive. Subsequently I inquired after him, but was told he had died a short time before. Now I, *Ali of Herat, do say, verily and of a truth, I myself have thus seen one who himself saw Abraham and Isaac and Jacob — ^peace be upon them all \** In confirmation of 'All's account of the opening of the Cave of Machpelah, the following note is to be found in Ibn al Athfr*s Chronicle under the year 513 that is, in the very year mentioned by Ali : " Tn this year was opened the tomb of Abraham, and those of his two sons Isaac and Jacob, at a place near the Holy City. Many people saw the Patriarchs. Their limbs had nowise been disturbed, and beside them were placed lamps of gold and of silver.'"* \ akui, besides quoting much of the above narrative from 'Ali of Herat, gives the following traditional account of the early history of Hebron : " Habrfln is the name of ilie village near Jerusalem where Abraham is buried ; and Abraham's name, Al Khalil (the Friend), has taken the place of the name HabrDn. The town is also called Habri. The building here was erected by Solomon. According to Ka*ab al Hibr,t the first who died and was buried here was Sarah ; and Abraham, wishing a place to bury her in, bought this spot near Habri for 50 Dirhams, and in those days the Dirham was worth 5 Dirhams of the present time. Sarah was thus buried here, and subsequently Abraham, Rebecca, Isaac, Jacob, and Leah (Li'yi or tliyah). Solomon, by Divine revelation, and directed * AH the extant notices of visits to the '«t]ni!chres of the Patriarchs of Hehriiii art* lirought together and discussed by Lomte Riant, in a paper in vul. ii. , p. 4 1 1 , of the Arvhives di fOrimi Latins ii^S4. On H«bron in general, the note given by M. Quatremire in the Appendix (p. 2^9) in vol. i., part 2, of his Histoire lifs Sttllans Mamlouks (one of the moft useful of the Oriintal 7'ninifahoit FittiJ \mh\\c:\\\< , may with advantage be consuUcd* t On this personage bee p. 142. Digitized by Goo^le PROVINCIAL CAPiTALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 319 by a light from heaven, began to build at Ar Ramah, a village on a hill overlooking Habra ; then God said, 'Not here, for behold the light in the heavens, is it not above Habra, above the cave ?' So Solomon built over the cave the enclosure now seen there. In this cave was the tomb of Adam, and behmd the enclosure is that of Joseph. Joseph's body was brought hither by Mose% having at first been buried in the middle of the Nile. The cave is under * the earth, the enclosure is above and around it, most strongly built " Hebron was given in iief by the Prophet to (his Companion) Tamlm ad Dirt and his family. There are named in the deed, Bait 'AinQn, Habrfin, Al Martikm, and Bait Ibrihim. These and all their dependencies were granted to Tamtm." (YAk., ii. 194 ; Mar., i. 384.) Abu-1 Fid4 gives a short account of Hebron, but adds nothing to the foregoing. (A. F., 241.) The traveller Ibn Batdtah visited Hebron in 1355, and we find in his Diary the following notice of the place : "The (Haram) Mosque at Hebron is built of hewn stone, and one stone is 37 spans {shibr) in length. The Haram is said to have been built by Solomon, aide d by the J inns. Within is the holy cave, where are the tombs of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; uppo^iiic lie the tombs of their wives. "To the right of the Mimbar (pulpit), and close to the southern outer wall, is a place where yuu may descend by solidly built marble steps, leading to a narrow passage, and this opens into a chamber paved with marble. Here are the cenotaphs of the three tombs. They sav that the bodies lie immediately adjacent (beneath), and that hereby was originally the passage down to the blessed c^ave. At the present time, however, this (passage) is . closed. To this (first chamber) I myself descended many times/' Next follow proofs that these are the real tombs, quotations being given from the JfadUh^ or Traditions of the Prophet. Ibn Batiitah adds that the tomb of Joseph is also seen in the mosque at Hebron. (I. 6., i. 114, 115.) Ishak al Khaltli (of Hebron), who wrote in 135 1, records the Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS^ following on the tombs of the patriarchs. His account has been copied verbatim by later writers, notably by SuyOti in 1470 (see J. R. A. S., new series, vol. xix., p. 290), and by Mujtr ad Din in 1496 (Cairo Text, p. 41) : "Muhammad \\m liakrati ihn Muliamniad al Khatih. who was Preacher of Abraham s Sancuiai), has reportttl as havin^ heard Muhammad ibn Ahmad, the grammarian, relate tlic follovvini;. which is given in his own words: 'Once I went witli the Kadi Al)u 'Amr 'Olhman il)n ]a^(ar ihn Shadhan to visit the tomb of Abraham -u|)on him i>eace 1 We had sojourned there for the space of three days, when, on the fourth, the Kadi approached the inscription which is facing the tomb of Rebecca, Isaac's wife, and ordered it to be washed, that the writin^^ thereon might be made clear : and he set me to copy all that was on the stone, in exact facsimile, on a roll of paper that we had brought. And after this he returned to Ar Kamlah, where be brought together men of all tongues, in order to read what was thereon ; but no one was able to interpret it. But all agreed that the same was in the language of the ancient Greeks ; and that if any there were who knew how to read it, it would l)e a certain Shaikh of Aleppo. So the K&di Abu 'Amr sent expressly to this Shaikh, requesting his presence at Ar Ramlah ; and when he had arrived, he caused me also to be present. And behold he that was come was a very ancient man ; and this Shaikh from Aleppo dictated to me as follows, being the translation of what I had copied : /» the dirim and adored N'anie, the sublime^ the mij^hty, the ivell'directing, the strongs thi' po7verful ! Verily the mound which /«■ faciti^:^ this is the Tomif of Rtlhcca, tJu- loife of Isaai\ and that ivhicli /us mar tht nio is the Toinh of haac. The great trtound over against this is the * To)nl> of Abraham the Friend, and tlii mound :idiirh fi,y< it on the eastern side is tlw Tcmh of Sarah his i^'ifr. 7'/i<- jurther nionnd^ i,')i 'uh lies beyond that of tlie Tomb of Abraham the Friend, is the Tomb of Jacoby and the mound adjoining it is the Tomb of Jliyd {Lea h)y Jacob's icife. And Esau wrote this with his o7vn hand. " • Further,* Muhammad ibn Bakrdn speaks of another manu- script, and that the copy of the inscription cut on the above- * This second account is omitted by SuyOti. Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF T01VNS. * 321 mentioned stone, lying to the east, stated that the head of Adam- peace be on him 1 — lay below it. The interpretation of the inscrip- tion was as follows : /// divifw an J adored Name, the hi^h^ the miglUy^ the victorious^ the strcv/x, I he puissant ! This mound ivhich lies near this inscription is the Tomi» of Rebecca, the wife of Isaac^ and the mound thereto adjacent westwards is the Tomb of Isaac, The greett mound which lies on the opposite side^ and corresponding thereto^ is the Tomb of Abraham^ and the mound which is fiuing^ this to the east thereof is the Tomb of his wife Sarah* The mound that ties farthest off but in a line with the Tomb of Abraham the Friend, is the Tomb of fcuob^ and the mound adjacent thereunto and to the east thereof is the Tomb of his tcife Iliyd-^the benediction of Allah and His ntercy and His blessing be upon them all / for purity lieth in His grace* "These, then, are the two accounts. Muhammad ibn BakrSn al Kiiatib notes that the name of (Icih) Jacob's wife is Iliyii, but that in some books her name is written I.a\a (or l.iyd), and she is known also as Lika, but Allah alone knows ihc truth ! The Kadi mentioned in the first account— /Vhu 'Amr 'Othman ibn Ja'far ibn Shadlian — was a judge of high rcntjwn, and well known. The narrator ot the account, huwcver, was not ( ertain as to llie exact name ol this Abu 'Amr's father. I have rcas<)n to believe that he was 'Othman, son of Muhammad ibn Shadhan. He was Kadi (judge) of Ar Ranilah during the Khalilaie of Ar Radi-billah, in the year 320 and odd (a.u. 932), and during the following years. He is an authority for traditions, which he held at many hands ; and a great number of very learned traditionists cite him for their warrnnty. "The Uafiz Ibn A^akir writes : In a certain book of traditions I read and copied the following: Muhammad ibn Bakiin ibn Muhammad al Khatib — who was Preacher of the Masjid of Abraham the Friend (of Allah)^ states as having heard it from Muhammad ibn Ahmad ibn *Ali ibn Ja'afar al Anbari, who him- self had heard Abu Bakr al AskSf i give the following account :* ' With me it is of a surety that the tomb of Abraham is at the spot * This is an amplified version uf the account given by Ali of Herat. See p. 315. 21 Digitized by Google 333 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. now shown as the same, for I have looked on the tomb and seen his hoily with my own eyes. And it was after this manner: I had expended great sums, amounting to nearl)- 4,000 dinars, on the holy place and its gnar(li:ins, liojjing ilicicljy tuoljtain faNour of Allah — may He be exalted ! -and I wished also to conviiK . in\ ->c)f of the exactitude of what was reported concerning (Abrahams tonil)). So when the hearts (of the guardians of the holy plac ci were won by nil that I had done there— in the way of j)ioiis deeds and generous giving, and in the makini; of pre sents, and honourably entreating of them, and other such bounties— I proposed to get at the root of die truth which my heart desired to know. So, on a certain day, 1 said to the guardians, when we were all assembled together, " I would fain ask of you to conduct mc to the door of the cave, that I may descend therein and be a witness for myself (of the tombs) of the prophets. The l>enediction of Allah and His mercy be upon them !" The guardians answered me, "We would certainly agree to do this for thee, for thou hast put us greatly in thy debt ; but at this present time the matter is im- possible, for travellers are constant in arriving. But do thou have patience till the winter shall have come." So when the month of the second K^nOn (January) was entered, I went to them again ; but they said to me, " Remain with us yet awhile until the snow falls." So I remained with them tUl the snow fell. Now, when the travellers had ceased coming, the guardians brought me to where there is a stone which lies in the floor between the tomb of Aliraham the Friend and that of Isaac — peace !)e on them both 1 — and they raised this slab, and one of them, a man of the name of Sa lilk, a ju.st man, who did many pious work.s, pre]jared 10 descend to guidc me. So he descended, and T with him and following him. We went down se\enty-tvvo btep.s, until we came to a jilace on the ri^ht, where we ^aw, as it were, a great bier built of black stones— even like a nun hant's stall in the bazaar — whereon was the body of an aged man, lying on his back, long- bearded and hairy of c heck, with clothes of a green colour clothing him. Said Sa luk to me, " This is Isaac peace be on him I' Then we went a little further, and came to a yet larger bier than the first, and upon it, extended also on his back, lay an Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 323 aged man, the hair on his breast already whitened with age, and his head, and beard» and eyebrows, and eyelashes white also. He was clothed in green garments also, which covered his body and also the greater part of the bier, and the wind blew about his white locks to right and to left. Said Sa'mk to me, **This is Abraham the Friend," and I threw myself upon my face glorifjring Allah — may He be praised and magnified! — ^for what He had vouchsafed to me. Then we continued on yet again, and came to a smaller bier, on which lay an old man, with a face much browned by the sun, and a thidc beard. On his body there were green clothes, which covered him. Said Saliik to me, "This is Jacob, the Prophet— on him be peace Then we turned to go to the right, as though to go to the Haram.' **At this point, says Muhammad al Anbari, Abu Bakr al Askafi certified to me that his stor\' must end. So I arose iruiii beside him, the time of the visit, aiul of his telhni; mo of all this, having drawn to a close. F>ul at my next leisure I went to the Masjid Ibrahim (Hebron) ; and, (uniijig to the Mosque, imjuired for Sa'htk. Said they to me, * In an hour he will be here.' And when he came, I went to him ; and, silling down beside him, began to tell him pnrt of the story (I had heard from his friend Abu Bakr). But he looked on me with an eye that would have denied all knowledge of the circumstances referred to by me. Then I turned towards him to gain his favour, and showed him that I was free of evil intent, for that Abu Bakr al Askiifi was as my paternal uncle : so he at length began to incline to me. And I said to him, *0 Sa'lOk, by AUah! when ye did turn as though to go towards the Haram, what happened, and what was it that ye saw?* And he said to me, *But did not Abu Bakr tell thee thereof?* But I answered, ' I desire to hear- of it from thee.' Then said he, * We heard, as coming from out near the Haram, a voice of one crying : Depart ye from the Haram ! and AUah hare ,mercy tmyou! And we both fell down, and lost all sense. After a time, coming to ourselves again, we arose, but despaired of life, and our companions (above) had despaired of seeing us also ever again.' "The Shaikh further told me that Abu Bakr al AskSfi lived 2\ — 3 Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDEH THE MOSLEMS, on but a few days after he had related to him this account, and Sa liik., too, died shortly atier — Ailah have mercy on them both !" Suy(iti in 1470 quotes, as already stated, the whole of the above account He gives, at the coinmeiK cment of his thirteenth chapter, the following tradition, which is doubtless derived from a Rabbinical source : *' It is reported l»v Ibn Wsnkir, on a chain of tradition going back to Ka'ab al Ahlxir, that the first i>erson who died and was buried at Hebron was Sarah ; . . . then Abraham himself died, and was buried at her side ; then Isaac's wife, Rebecca, died, and was buried there, and later Isaac himself was buried beside his wife. When Jacob ilted, he was buried at the mouth of the cave, and when his wife Liki (Leah) came also to die, she was buried beside him. Then the sons of Jacob met together, and also Esau and his brethren, and they said, ' Let us leave the entrance of the cavern open, so that when any die he may be buried therein.' But afterwards a dispute arose among them, and one of the brothers of Esau — or, as some say, one of the sons of Jacob — raised his hand and struck Esau a blow that caused his head to fall off, and it rolled into the cave. And they carried away his body and buried it without the head, for the head remained within the cave.* And the cave they closed by a wall. Then over each grave they erected a monument, inscribing on each severally, This is the iomb of Abraham^ This is the tomb of Sarah, and so forth, after which ihey all departed, closing the gates.*' (S., 289 ; M. a. D.. 41.) Mujir ad Din, who wrote in 1496, inserts all the foregoing in his work. He further made very careful measurements of the Hebron Sanctuary, and has left a detailed description of the buildings there, as they stood at the close of the fifteenth century. Descriptions of the Hebron Haiam at the present day correspond very closely with tins account, proving that since the time of Mujir ad Din no very extensive alterations have taken place. Nlbsir-i*Khusiaa, as early as 1047, notices the Sepulchre of * This is the Rabbinical tradition, found in tbe Bftbylonian Talmttd. SUak^ i. 13. Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 325 Joseph, " on the west side " of the Haram at Hebron. Of the first discovery of this sefnilchre — said to have taken place in the early part of the tenth century a.d. — Mujlr ad Din gives an account, of which the following is a translation : ** The tomb of Joseph is in the plot of ground Ijring outside Solomon's enclosure (the Haram). It stands opposite the tomb of Jacob, and is near that of hts forefathers Abraham and Isaac. Now Ibrahim ibn Ahmad al Khalanji states that he was requested by one of (the Khalif *) Al Muktadir's women, Al 'Ajd7. by name, who was sojourning at the Holy City, to proceed to the place where, according to ttic tradition, Joseph was buried, and having dihcovcrcd the sepulrhre, to erect over it a building. So Al Khalanji set forth with workmen, and they foiuid the place where, n'^rordiug lu tradition. Jose[)h was buried, namely, outside the ciu i(»iire (of Sulonmn), and opposite the tomb of Jacob, and they bought the field from its owner, and began to lay it ban'. In the very place indicated by the tradition they oinie on a huge rock, and this, by order of Al Khalanji, was broken into. They tore off a portion, 'and,' says Al Khalanji, *I being with the workmen in the trench when they raised up the fragment, lo I here lay (the body oO Joseph — pea< c l)e upon him ! — beautiful and glorious to look on, as he is always represented to have been. Now, first there arose from the i^lace an odour of musk, following it, however, came a strong wind ; so I caused the workmen to set down into its place again the fragment of rock, to be as it had been before.* ^'And afterwards,'* Mujir ad Din continues, '*they built over this place the Dome which can be seen there to this day, in proof that the tradition is a true one, and that the Patriarch is 'buried beneath. This Dome stands without the walls of Solomon's Enclosure, and to the west of it, being within the Madrasah (or college), called after Al Malik an Nisir Hasan,f which at the present day is called Al Kala'ah (the castle). You enter it through the gate of the Mosque which opens towards the market, and leads to the Eunuch's Spring ('Ain at Tawashi). It is a place • Ho rei^tud from r)o8 to 932 A.n. t One of the Mamluk .Sultans of Egypt. He was a^assinated in 762 (1361). Digitized by Google n ihM tow,., ,.„„|, "e also sc-, , '» the Mo.,,„o ,, 8W»*sor the (>„ . « . ' ' ".ir.inil of V '•'"■larchs < , v ^ ^ ot the -oriuBM s e2 <^MM*^tii^tQ isi lift . * ''^ ^"OT (km. - ^ Abrahaii Vhti SCI * and iu :i was li'J anil I'l ♦» In of Ja<» tomh. wife I ..1 A. Digitized by Google > ; .. : .: v' * r * a." ' i \ ■■ . ' A: r'tf :f tr.x: t ^- ; - c •. ^ >. v ; -.^ ^ >«.'!.--•. '•■ ■ •\. v ■ ,V Oa. .L.:*.: :i • ^'J> * V-v V>«.-Jt :'er *t.^ <:e t'c V »v ^^^v* c 1 ' V ' " A \ I" M *\ ; '1* .'sv*'* H> * ^ X ^ N \s ♦ v . X \ 'v. >s.« '-'V' '« *V . * *» \ » H ^ vA V N O . i >.* . V '> ' X V * v \ » \ N • .*v \ V » V ^^N'O**^. A* S \ " \\ N »V » '\ \ *. \ X. AH'- » » V V X • N*- »\ \ \ V " * ^ • ut Alu.ih.viu .mil tl^vl v»l l ivx<!«. »v u'ux>\xu,', Vs I the tinier tit iIk* Om.tvx ui kl\.>lil>. * All the above, wiiiku in w .\\ 1 ju*'. ■« » \\\ \\\\\\ preM^nl (1< s( riptions ot (he ili liion SiimiUtU\. IM' I . Mcr^i'iirs. in. 337.) * Sim r1<Hril, J Digitized by Google 336 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLBHS, much frequented (by pilgrims, who arc shown) here the grave (of Joseph;. One of the guardians of Hebron, Shihab ad Din Ahmad al Yaghnuiri* by name, pierced a gatewny in the western wall of (the flarain, which is) Solomon's F.ik losurc, and this opens opposite to the tend) ot our lord jo^cjih. He aUo set a cenotaph over this lower tomb, to mark the same, and to be similar to those that are above the other graves of the Hatriarchs that lie in the Moscpie (or Haram) of Abraham. This was done during the reign of Sultan I5arkuk."t (M. a. D., 64.) Of Mujir ad Din's description and measurements of the Hebron Sanctuary in his own day, the following translation gives the substance of the text printed in the Cairo edition (p. 56 eiseq*). The letters in brackets refer to the plan facing p. 312 : " Hebron Sanctuary ; measurements within the walls of Solomon's building. "The length from north to south, measuring from the back of the Mihrfib near the Mimbar (K) to the further end of the shrine in which is the grave of Jacob (P), is 80 etls of the workman's ell — less about | or } of an elL " The breadth from east to west, measuring from the wall at the entrance-gate to the back of the western colonnade (riwdk) in which is the window {shahbak) leading to the sepulchre of Joseph (S), is 41 ells, plus about \ or ^ an ell- the ell being that used by the workmen of our day. " The iliickness of the wall on all sides is 3^ ells. The number of the courses in its construction is fifteen in the highest portion, which is that near the g^ate of the Kala'ah at the south-west corner (near I)), and the height of the wall here from the ground not including the part built by the ( '■ reeks, w hit h lies above Solomon's wall — is 2() ells. Amoni; the stones used m Solomon "s wall, there is one near the Tabl Khanah (l>rum House), the length of which is II ells. The height ( Wr</) of each of the courses of Solomon's walls is about I j ells. There are two minarets that rise from the wails, one at the south cast angle (V), and the other at the north* west angle (U), and these are beautifully built * Governor of Jerusalem and Hebron in 796 (1394}. t The Mamlfik Sultan of Egypt who reigned 784-801 (1382-1399). Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 327 " As regards the description of the l)uildings, inside the walls there is a vaulted building (the Church) occupying about half, namely, the bouthem portion (of the area), and (extending north- ward. It dates from (ireek times. It consists of three aisles, and the middle aisle is higher than those that lie to the east and west of it. The roof is supported on four well-built piers. At the end of the middle aisle of this vaulted building is the Mihrib, and beside it is the Mtmbar {pulpit) of wood, made in the reign of the Fatimite Khalif al Mustansir-billah, or order of Badr al Jam&lf, in 484 (1091). It was brought here from Ascalon in Saladin*s time. *' In this part the Church) are the tombs of Isaac, near the pier beside the Minihar (on the western side, at j) ; the tomb of his wife Rebecca is opposite beside the eastern pier (at I). This main-building (the Church) has three doors opening into the court of the Mostjue. The middle door leads into the Sanctuary of Al)raham. 1 his is a vaulted chamber of marble, with four walls. On its western side is the cell (X) in which is the tomb of Abraham, and C()rrcs})un(liiiL: un the east is the touib o; Sarah (M). rtic second doorway (of ihc liiain-builuin- ). which is 011 the cast, and near the great entrance-gate in Solomon's wall, is Ixhind Sarah's tomb. i he third doorway, to the w csi. is immediately behind Abraham's tomi) ; it leads into the colonnade. This L;ate* was built by Shihah ad Din al Vaghmi'lri, who also pierced the window in Solomon s wall ojiening into the place of Joseph's tomb, and this during the reign of Sultan Harkuk in 796 (1394). In the northern part ui the enclosure of Solomon is the grave of Jacob (P) lying on the w estern side, and in a line with Abraham's tomb. ()p[K)siie this (()) on the eastern side is the tomb of his wife Likd (Leah). The Court of the Mosque between the tomb of Abraham and that of Jacob, is uncovered to the sky. The domes over the patriarch's tombs are said to have been built in the times of the Omayyad Khalifs." All the above, written in the year 1496, tallies exactly with the present descriptions of the Hebron Sanctuary. (Cf. P.E.F. Memoirs^ iii. 337.) * Now closeil. Digitized by Google 32« PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, 'akkah or 'akka (acre). " A city on the coast of the Jordan Province." (Yb,, 115.) Mukaddasi, writing in 985 a.d., gives the following interesting description of the city : " 'AkH is a fortified city on the sea. The mosque here is very large. In its court is a clump of olive-trees, the oil from which suffices for the lamps of the inosciuc, and yet besides. This city had remained unfuriiikd until the Lime when II )n 'riilun (the Ruler of E.tjypt) visited it, coming from Tyre, where he had seen the foriifications and the wall^ which are there carried round so as to protect the harbour. Then Ibn I'ulun wished to ci^nstruei at *Akkn n fortification that should be :i< im])ieL;nal)le as that (jf Tyre. Frofn all provinces nrtifirers were brouuht together: but when llie matter was laid before them, all averred that none in these days knew how the foundations of a building could be laid m the water. Tlu n one mentioned to Ibn TiilOn the name of my grandfather, Abu Bakr, the architect, saying that if perchance any had know- ledge in these matters, it would In; he alone. So Ibn Till An wrote to his Lieutenant in Jerusalem commanding that he should despatch my grandfather to him ; and on his arrival they laid the affair before him. 'The matter is easy/ said my grandfather; ' let them bring such sycamore beams as be large and strong.' These beams he set to float on the surface of the water, as a pro- longation of the town walls (seawards), and he bound them one to the other ; while towards the west he left the opening for a mighty gateway. And upon these beams he raised a structure with stones and cement. After every five courses he strengthened the same by setting in great columns. At length the beams became so weighted that they began to sink down ; but this was little by little, and finally they rested on the sand. Then they ceased building for a whole year, that the construction might consolidate itself, after which, returmng. they began again to build. And from wliere it iiad l)cen left off, continuing, my grandfather made a junction between this and the ancient city walls, bringing the new woik right up into the old, and causing the two to join together. Across the western gate of the port he buik a bridge, Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 329 and ever)' night when the ships had come within ihc harbour they drew a<T<)ss the water-gate a chain, even as was the case at Tyre. 1 1 is reported that my grandfather received for this matter the i>um of 1,000 Dinars (^500), besides rol)es of honour, horses, and other gifts, and his name was in^( ribed over the work. Now, before this harbour had been made the enemy were wont to take advantage of the ships lying here to do them grievous damage." (Muk., 162, 163.) This account is quoted verbatim by Yakut (Vdk., iii. 707, 708, and Mar., ii. 27 1, in epitome), who adds that the inscription naming Abu fiakr the architect still existed in the thirteenth century, when he wrote. The method of building described, with stone-pillars used, as * through-bonds/ is one much used in later centuries by the architects of the Crusaders. The remains of the double mole forming the inner harbour at Acre may still be seen, though at the present day these are almost entirely under water. (See Mems. of S. of W. P., vol. i., 160.) Our next account of Acre is written by the Persian Pilgrim t N4sir, who vbited the city in 1047 : ** After leaving Tyre, we travelled 7 leagues, and came to the township of 'Akkah, which, in official documents, is named Madinat 'Akkah. The city stands on an eminence, the ground sloping, but in part it is level; for all along this coast they only build to'^wi>, where there is an elevation. l)eing in terror of an onrroachment of the waves uf the bca. The l-riday Musque at Aere is in the centre of tiie town, and rises taller than all the other edifices. All its columns are c>r marble. To the right hand, out- side the Mosque, and towards the Kiblah (south) is the tomb of the Prophet iSahh*- pence he upon him '. I lie court of the ^ Mosque is yxirtly paved with stone, and the other part is sown with' green herbs, for they say it was here that Adam— peace be upon him ! — first practised hui>bandry. I made a measurement of the city ; its length is 2,000 ells, and its breadth 500 ells. Its walls are extremely strong; to the west and south lies the sea. * According to ihc Kuran (vii. 71), Salih vva>. the prophet sent to convert the tribe of Thamud. He is variously identified with the Peleg of Gcnei>is xh l6» or the Sabh of verse 12 of ihe same chapter* Digitized by Google 330 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, On the southern side is what is called the Mini (or port). Now, most of the towns upon this coast have a Mina, which same is a place constructed for the harbouring of ships. It resembles, so to speak, a stable, the back of which is towards the town, with the side-walls stretching out into the sea. Seaward,, for a space of about 50 eils, there is no wall, but only chains, stretching from one wairs end to the other. When they wish to let a ship come into the Mtn^ theyslack the chains until they have sunk beneath the surface of the water sufficient to let the ship pass over them (into the harbour) ; then they tighten up the chain again so as to prevent any strange vessel coming in to make an attempt against the ships. " Outside the eastern city gate, and on the left hand, is a spring, to which you descend by twenty-six steps before reaching the water. This they calf the 'Ain al Bakar (the Ox Spring), relating how it was Adam — peace be upon him ! — who discovered this spring, and gave his oxen water liicrcfruiii, whence its name of the Ox-Spring. "When you leave this lownsliip of Acre and i^<.) easiwards, you come to the mountain region (ot Lower (ialilee), where there are various places of martyrdom ot tl»e i>roj)lKts — peace he upon them !---and this region lies aside Irorn the road of him who would travel to Kanilah. . . . liere I went and visited liie toml) of 'Akkah, w ho is the founder of the city of Acre, a very pious and great personage." (N. K.h., 12-14.) In 1 104 King Baldwin and the Crusaders took Acre. Idrisi, writing in 1 154, but from the descriptions given him by other travellers, remarks : " 'Akkah is a large city, spaciously laid out, with many domains ■ round it. The city has a fine and safe port The population is of mixed (nationality and religion)." fid, 12.) The next account is by *Ali of Herat, who wrote in 1173. He gives the following account of the celebrated Ox Spring, a site held sacred by Jews, Muslims, and Christians alike, and a favourite place of pilgrimage of those days. The Crusaders ultimately turned the eastern part of the Mosque they found here into a church. There is here (says *Ali of Herat) the *Ain al Bakar, from Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 331 whence came forth the oxen wherewith Adam ploughed the earth. Over this spring is a Mashhad (or oratoiy) dedicated to 'All ibn Abu TAlib (son-in-law of the l^rophct). This the Franks wished to turn into a church. And tlu v >ci here (one day) a guardian whu \v»is to su{>erintcrul the huihliii;; thereof .ind serve ihc place. Hut on the morrow he < anie and >.aid, ' I ha\e seen (in my sleep) a per>()n who spake, sa\ing, I a;/i Wli ibn Abu Jalib ; say now to thy people that thty shall leai'f //// > /'/ih e to be a Mus<jite^ Jor othtr- 7i-iie 7vill I destroy thee' liut when the guardian told his country- men tliis they would not believe his words. And they set another in his place ; but when the morrow came behold they found this man dead. So the Franks abandoned their purpose, and it has remained a Mosque even to the present time* They say that the tomb of Salih is to the south of the Jami' (Mos(jue), but the truth is otherwise. The tomb of 'Akk, or Akkah, from whom the city is named, is also in the neighbourhood." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 32.) Our next account of Acre is from the Spanish «Vrab Ibn Jubair, who visited the city in 1 185, a couple of years before the place was retaken by Saladin. The following is a translation — somewhat condensed' — of those paragraphs of his diary which describe the town : That night we stopped at one of the farmsteads about a league distant from 'Akkah. The head man there—who was the inspector of the affairs thereof for the Muslim landlord, and on behalf of the Franks also, for whatever the farmers did there in the matter of cultivation^ — invited us as guests, and ^ave hospitality to all the people e>r the caravan, lK)th greai .uid -mall lodi;ing us in a broad galiery in his house and setting Jood before us. W'e remamed there that n'vdhx and the next day entered Akkah. And they brought us to the Diwaii (Dogana, Custom-hoii'>e) whu h is a Khan prepared as the halling-jjlacc of caravans. I'cfore the gate is a carpeted platform on which sit the secretaries of the I)iwan on the part of the Chrij>iians, liefore desks of ebony oriKimented with geld work. 1 he>e write in .\rabic, and talk the Iangua^;;e also, and their head is the Sahib ad Diwan iChjcf o£ the Customs), and ihey take note of all (hat passes before them. Digitized by Google 33* PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEHiS, "'Akkaii is the chief of the fVaiik cities of Syria, the threat i)orl of the sea, and the great anchorage for their ships, being second only to Constantinople. It is the meeting-place of Muslim and Christian merchants of all lands. The place is full of pigs and of crosses. 'I'he Franks took it from the Muslims in the first decade of the sixth century (of the Hijrah). They turnt^d the Mosque into a church, and the Minaret into a bell-tower. But Allah has granted that a part of the Jami' Mosque should still remain un- desecrated in the hands of the Muslims, and here, as strangers, they assemble to pray. Near the Mihrib of this is the tomb of the Prophet Sdlih — peace be upon him ! In the eastern part of the town is the spring called *Ain al Bakar (the Spring of the Ox), it being that from ^i^hich Allah caused the ox to come forth for Adam — peace be on him I The descent to the spring is by polished steps ; and over it stands a Mosque, the Mihr&b of which remains in good condition. To the east of it the Franks have built a Mihr&b (or orator} ) for themselves, and Moslems and infidels assemble together to make their prayers. But the place is in the hands of the Christians, and by them is much honoured We stayed in 'Akkah two days, and then went to Sflr (Tyre)." (1. J., 306, 307.) "The towns of 'Akkah and Siir ha\c no gardens (immediately) surrounding liicm ; ihcy .stand in a llat country and along the shore of the sea. The fruits are brought into the town from the gardens that arc in the neighbourhood, both towns possess broad lands lying on the flanks of the mountain chain along the coast, and these are occ upied by farmsteads. Their produce is brought into thoM.- cities : and the-^c land> are extremely rich. To the east of 'Akkah and at the further end of the town is a ^\ adi, down which flows a torrent of water, and on its banks, near the sea (mouth) is a stretch of land than which none can be seen more beautiful. No Mai dan (or race-course) for horses can be finer. The (Christian) Ix)rds of the town go there evening and morning, and the soldiers, also, for exercise." (I. J., 313, 314.) 'Akkah, according to YikClt (Y^,, iii. 707-709), is the most beautiful of the coast towns, and belongs to the Jordan Province. He next quotes Mukaddasi, and continues : *' The Khalif Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 333 Mu'awiyah of old gained great glory by conquering 'Akkah and the coast towns. He refortified both 'Akkah and Sur before he ^ set out to conquer Cyprus. After his days the fortifications of ' 'Akkah fell to ruin, and they were restored by the Khalif Hish^ni, the son of 'Abd al Malik, and were the Frontier Fortresses of the Jordan Province. All the artificers of the land (of Syria) lived here. Then Hisham moved them all to Tyre, where they remained till about the Khalif Al Muktadir's day (a.d. 908-932), when they were all dis|)ersed on the coming of the Crusaders. **The Franks besieged 'Akkah by land and by sea in 497 (iio4)»and took it, slaying many. The city remained in their hands till Saladin retook it in 583 (11 87); but the Franks (under Richard Coeur de Lion) came against it again, and laid siege and dug a ditch, even though Saladin came and encompassed them without, and laid siege to the besiegers during the space of three years. None the less, at last the Franks ag^'n took 'Akkah from the hands of the Muslims in 587 (1191), and made captives of nearly three thousand Muslims; so the city remains still in llicir hands to the present day." Thus far ^ nkOt, who wrote in i 22 v 'he author of the Mardsi'd, who ci'il;)nu/ed his work al)()ut the }enr 1300, adds: "*.\kkah was retaken frcmi tlie Frank> in 6go (1291) by Al Malik al Ashraf ibn Kalfuin (the Mamluk Sulian of Egypt), who made great slaughter of all the Christians here." (Mar., ii. 271.) Yakut (Yak., iii. 758) and the author of the Afarasid (Mar. ii. 294) also mention the " Ox Spring. ' noting that it is held in veneration by Muslims, Christians, and Jews alike, and give the . story of Adam's ox. Yikdt adds that many other strange tradi- tions are related uf this spring. A cursory notire of Acre is given by Dimashki (Him., 2r3), which adds nothing, however, to the foregoing. Abu-1 Fid^ writing in 1321, after a notice of the Ox Spring, continues : "'Acre is a beautiful city. The people have their drinking- water from an underground channel which comes into the town. Thfite is a fine and spacious port, and artisans are numerous here. >^ At the present day Acre is in ruins, having been brought back Digitized by Google 1 334 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, into the hands of the Muslims from the [ umks in the year 690 (1291), and I niy^»clf was present at its capture, and had booty therefrom." (A. F., 243.) ^ In 1355 Acre was visited by the traveller Ibn Batuiah, who I reports (I. H., i. 129) the city to have been in ruins when he visited it, "though fornurly it was the I rank capital of Syria.'* He iiientiuiiN < ursorily the 'Ain al Bakar, and the Mosque of the Prophet Salih. TABARm'AH (ilBERlA.s). The capital of the Jordan Province. ** Tabariy}-ah lies on the lake of the same name," writes Yalciibi, **and is surrounded by hills. From the lake runs out the Jordan. At the city of Tiberias are hot springs, which bubble up and never fidl summer or winter. The> carry the hot water into the baths by conduits, and thus the people have no need of fuel for heating their water.-* (Yb , 115.) Istakhn's a( ( (Mint is as follows: ** The chief town of the Urdunn (Jordan) I'rovincc is Tabansyaii. It stands on a fresh- « water lake 1 2 leagues lont;, by from 2 leagues to 3 leagues across. There are hot springs \vhi( h How out near the city, rising about 2 Icai^ues away ; but even when the water reaches the town — although from the length of the conchiit it has somewhat cooled - it is still so hot that skins thrown into it have the hair removed, .and it is impossible to use the water (for bathing) until (cold water) has been mixed with it. This water is what is generally employed in the hot baths and the (mo.sque) tanks (for ablution). At ral)ariyyah they use (for drinking purposes) the water of the lake." (Is., 58 ; I. H., 113.) j " Tabariyyah," writes Mukaddasi, " is the capital of the Jordan * Province, and a city of the Valley of Kin'an (Canaan). The i houses stand l>etween the mountain and the lake. The town is narrow, hot in summer, and unhealthy. It is nearly a league in length, but has no breadth. Its market-place extends from one city gate to the other, and its graveyard is on the hill-slope. There are here eight natural hot baths, where no fuel need be Digitized by Google PROVtSClAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 335 used, and numberless basins l)esides of boiling water. The mosque is large and fine, and stands in the market-place. Its floor is laid in pebbles, set on stone drums, [>laced close one to another. Of the people of Tiberias it is said that for two months they dance, and for two more they goiige ; that for two months they beat about, and for two more they go naked ; that for two months they play the reed, and for two more they wallow. The explanation of this is that they dance from the number of fleas, then gorge off the Nabak fruit ; they beat about with fly-laps ^to chase away the wasps from the meat and the fruits, then they go naked from the heat ; they suck the sugar-canes, and then have to wallow through their muddy streets. Beyond the lower end of the Lake of Tiberias is a great bridge,* over wfakh ties the road from Damascus. The ^>eo|>le drink the water of the lake. Around its shores are villages and palm-trees, and on its surface arc boats which come and go. The water from the hath-, and the hot springs flows into the lake, and strani;er>, dislike ihc flavour of its waters for drinking. *I'he lake swarms, none the less, with fish, and the water is light of digestion. The mountains, which are steep, overhang the town." (Muk., 161 ; quoted at length by Vak., iii. 510.) Mukaddasi contmues on another page: *' Near Tiberias are lioiling springs, which supply most of the hot baths of that town. A conduit goes to each bath from the springs, and the steam of the water heats the whole ljuilding, whereby they have no need of artificial firing. In an outer l)uilding they-set cold water, which, in certain proportion, has to be mixed with the hot by those who wish to l}athe ; and this same also serves in the (mosques) for the ablution. Within this district are other hot springs, as at the place called Al Hammah (the Thermal Waters). Those who suffer from the scab, or ulcers, or sores, and other such-Iike diseases, come to bathe here during three days, and then afterwards they dip in the water of another spring, which is cold, whereu|)on — if Allah vouchsafe it to them — ^they become cured. I have heard the ■ Kither the jisr al >Tni *uni', or the bridge, at present in ruins, close U> the southern end of ibc lake, called Jisr as Sidd. Digitized by Google 336 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. people of Tiberias relate that all around these springs, down to the time of Aristotle^ there were bath-houses, each establishment being for the cure of a specific disease, and those who were afflicted thereby sojourned here and l)athed for their cure. Aris- totle, however, demanded of the king of that time that these bath- houses should be pulled down, lest thereby men should become exempt from recourse to physicians. That there are here several different waters, with various medicinal properties, would appear to be a certain fact ; for every sick person who comes here now is obliged each one to immerse himself completely in the (mixed) waters, ill order to insure that he shall get to that which, in particular, may lical his special disorder. Among the villages near Maab, also, there is another hot-spring, called Hammah." (Muk., 185.) The springs here mentioned must be those of Gadara, or Amatha, in the Varmuk Valley, near the present town of VJmm Keis. Tiberias was visited by Nasir-i-Khusrau in 1047. He writes in his Diary : " Leaving Irbil we came down a valley, at the further end of which were visible the lake and the city of Tabariyyah upon the shore of the same. The length of the lake (of Tiberias) I would estimate at 6 leagues, and its breadth may be 3 leagues. The water of the lake is sweet and of good flavour. The town lies on the western shore. The waters from the hot springs near by, and the drainage^water of the houses, all flow into the lake ; and yet the population of the city, and of the places along the shore of the lake, do, none the less, all of them drink of the waters thereof. I heard that once upon a* time a certain governor of the city gave orders that they should prevent the refuse of the city and the sewage from draining thus into the lake. But (after his orders were carried out) the water of the lake itself became fetid, so as to be no longer fit for drinking ; and on his ordering that the sewers should again be allowed lu open therein, the lake-water became onec more sweet as aforetimes. The city has a strong wall that, beginning at the borders of the lake, goes all round the town -f but on the water side there is no wall. There are number- Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 337 less buildings erected in the very water, for the bed of the lake in tills part is rock ; and they have built pleasure houses that are supported on ( olumns of marble, rising up out of the water. The lake is very full of fish. " 'I'he Friday Mosque is in the midst of the town. At the gate of the mosque is a spring, over which they have built a hot bath ; and the water of this spring is so hot that, until it has been mixed with cold water, you cannot bear to have it poured over you. They say this hot bath was built by Solomon, the son of David — peace be upon them both S^-and I myself did visit it. There is^ too, on the western side of the town of Tiberias a mosque known as the Jasmine Mosque (Matfid i- Ydsmim). It is a fine building, and in the middle part rises a great platform (dukkAn\ where they have their Mihdlhs (or prayer^niches). All round those they have set jasmine-shrulis, from which the mosque derives its name. In the colonnade, on the eastern side, is the tomb of YOsha' ibn N(in (Joshua, the son of Nun); and underneath the great platform aforesaid are shown the tombs of the seventy proj)hets — peace be upon them ! whom the children of Israel slew. In the town of Tiberias they make prayer-mats of reeds, which sell in the place itself for five Maghribi I )inars (or over ^^2) a ]»iece. On the west of the city rises a mountain, upon which has been built in hewn stone a castle : and there is here an inscription in Hebrew characters, stating that, at the time it was cut, the Pleiades stood at the head of the zodiacal sign of the Ram. 'f'he tomb of Abu Hurairah (the Propliet's Companion) lies outside the city, towards the south ; but no one can go and visit it, fur the people who live here are of the Shi'ab sect, and as soon as anyone comes to make the visitation, the boys begin a tumult, and raise a disturbance about him that ends in stone-throwing, wherefrom injuries are received." (N. Kb., 16.) The castle here mentioned is probably the remains of Herod's CasUe, now called Kasr Bint al Malik (the Palace of the King's Daughter), lately visited and described by Herr Schumacher in the P. £. F. Quarterly Statemnt for April, 1887. Abu Hurairah, one of the Prophet's Companions, whose tomb NSsir was unable to visit, died, in a.h. 57 (677), at 'AkMc. His 22 Digitized by Google 338 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. body, say the historians^ was taken into Al Madtnah, and buried in the well«known cemetery of Al Baki'. (Cf. Ibn Khallikan*s Bicgraphicai Ditthnary^ translated by De Slane, i. 570.) In con- firmation of NHsir's account, that his tomb was in old times shown at a village near Tiberias, is a stone of 'Ajliin marble, measuring 2 feet 7 inches by 2 feet, lately discovered in this neighbourhood by Herr Schumacher. It bears on its face an Arabic inscription to the following effect : "/« the name of Allah the Compassionate, the Merciful ! Say : lie is one God — God the Everlasting I He beget teth not^ and He is not begotten, and there is none like unto Him* This is tfu Towb of Abu Hurairah, the Conipanion of thf Apostle of Allah : upon whom be the peace of Allah and His blessing." In the jjlace where this stone was discovered, Herr Schumacher noted traces of an am lent mosque. (P. E. i'". Quarterly State- ment, Ai^ril, 1887, p. 89.) " Tahariyyah." a( cordini; to Idri^i's work, wriitcti in 1154, "is a great city in the I'rovim c of the Jordan, and the capital thereof. It is a beautiful town, lying on the slope of the mountain ; and it stretches out in the length, for its breadth is small. In length it is near to a couple of miles. At the bn^c of the town, on its western part, is a lake of sweet water 1 2 miles long, and the like in breadth ; and over it sail vessels that carry the crops of the lands round the lake to the city. It has fortified walls. I'hey manufacture here the mats called As SUm&ntyyah; and marvellous they are, and very little are they manufactured elsewhere in any of the other towns of this land. In Tiberias are hot baths with hot water that is not heated with fire. The water remains hot summer and winter. Among them is the bath called Hammam ad Damikir ; it is very large, and the water when it first gushes from the ground is so hot that they scald kid skins and fowls therein, and you ma) l)oil eggs in it. The water is salt Then there is the Hamm&m l^iUCi, which is smaller than the Hammflm ad Damakir. Its water is hot, but sweet ; and the warm water is distnlmtcd among the houses in the neighbourhood, being used for washing and olher purposes. Of other baths is liic Hammam * This first pftfagraph forms the ti2th chuptcr of th« Kurfin. Digitized bv Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 339 al Minjadab. In all Tiberias there is no Ham mam that is heated with fire except only the Small Bath (^/ Hammthn as Sa^hir\ and this was originally built by a oertaiti one of the Muslim kings in his private house for his own use, and for Ihe use of his wives, and his children, and his servants. When he died the bath was thrown open and given to the people for the public to use, and in it alone is the water heated with fire. ^ To the south of Tiberias are great Hammims, such as 'Ain Maukt'tn, and 'Ain ash Sharaf (or 'A in ash Sharab), and others, wherein at all seasons flow out springs of hot water. Sick people from all .the neighbouring countries come to these, such as those who suffer from lumbago, and paralysis, and rheumatism, and those with ulcers and the scab ; and they remain in the water durinj^ three days, and then — by the permission of Allah — they become healed." (Id., lo.) 'Ali of Herat has the following notices of j)laees of visitalion lying near Tiberias. The text will be found on fulius 27, 2S, and 30, of the Oxford MS., and they have been copied by Yakdt into his Dicliuiiary : "To tVie east of the lake is said to be the tomb of Sulaimaii (King Solomon) ibn Daud : hut the truth is that his toml; is at Bait I,ahm, both he and his father being buried in the cave where Jesus was born (at Bethlehem). On the east of the lake also is the. tomb of Lukman, the sage (.Msop). At l'al)ariyyah is the spring of water which is called after 'Ua (Jesus), the son of Mar>' — peace be upon Him ! and the Church of the Tree (A'a/riw// ash Shajarah\ about which there is a wondrous history concerning 'ls& ibn Maryam^ peace be upon Him!— and the dyers (or artisans). It is mentioned in the Evangil, and was the first miracle that He did. *'0n the spur of the Mountain of Tabariyyah is the tomb of Abu Hurairah." (Copied in Yilc, iti. 512.) 'ITie story of Jesus and the artisans, or dyers— for the MSS. vary in the reading of the word—is presumably some apocryphal version of the marriage of Cana. 'All of Herat continues: "The Hammam (or hot baths) of Tiberias are considered one of the wonders of the world. They 22 — 2 Digitized by Google 3*0 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEtiS. lie at the Gate of Tabariyyah, and h^sido the lake. Of the like of this wc have seen many in other parts of the world. But that which is the real wonder of the world is the Hammani at a i)lace in the dependencies of I'abariyyah, and to the east of it at a village called Al Husainiyyah, in the Wadi (of the \'armQk). Here there are ancient structures said to have been built by Solomon, the son of David, and one building was originally a temple. The water flows out from the forepart of the building, pouring forth from twelve openings, and each spring is especially purposed to cure a special disease. The water is extremely hot, but is perfectly limpid and sweet to drink." (Copied by YakOt, iii. 510.) "Tabariyyah," writes Y&kOt, **is a small town on the shore of the lake of that name. It lies three days distant from Damascus, and the like from Jerusalem, and two days from 'Akkah, being in the Jordan Province and in the Ghaur. The town in shape is long and narrow, till it attains the slope of a small mountain near by, on which are other buildings. There are hot salt springs here, over which they have built Hammdms, and they use no fuel. Tabariyyah is called after I'abara (Tiberias), one of the (Jrct k kings. He hiiih the baths here, for he saw no fuel was needed, hot water gusliing out l)y night and day. Tabariyyah wai» first conquered by (the Arab commander) Shurahbil in the year 13 (634) by capitulation : one half of the houses and churches were to helontj to the Muslims, the other half to the Christians, Between 'labarivvah and Raisan is anuther hot bath called the Hammah of Solomon, the son of David. They say it cures all kinds of diseases. "In the middle of the lake is a .sculptured stone, with upper rows of stones set thereon. It may be seen from afar off. It is said b\ the people of the neighbourhood to be the tomb of David." (Vak., iii. 509.) Tabariyyah," writes Dimasbki, "in the Safad District, was originally the capital of the Jordan Jund. It is a city that is built along the shore of the lake. The latter is 12 miles long, and 6 miles across. The mountains surround it on all sides. Out of the lake runs the Shari'ah (River Jordan), which flows Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPHALU A.\U CHIEP TOWNS. 341 down to the Lake of Zughar (the Dead Sea). On the shore of the Lake of Tabariyyah are some springs of extremely hot water, called Al Hamm^mat (the Hot Baths). The water of these springs is salt and sulphurous, and is very useful in cases of swollen limbs, dry num^c, or for excess of [iblcj^in, and extreme i orpu- lence. I hey j^ay that the lomlj of Solomon, the son of David, is in this lake." (Dim., 211.) Abii-1 Fida gives much of the above in epitome, but adds no new facts. In his day the city was in ruins, never having re- covered the siege by Saladin, who took it from the Crusaders in 1187. Tabariyyah was visited in 1355 by Ibn Hatutah. He speaks of it as a large and ancient town, now in ruins : " There are," he say^, ''baths here, with iKith-houses for both men and women, and the waters are very hot. The I-ike of Tabariyyah is 6 leagues long, and 3 leagues broad. .Vt Tabariyyah is the Mosque of the Prophets. Here also is the tomb of Shu'aib (Jethro), and of his daughter, the wife of Moses. The tombs of Solomon, YahOda (Judah), and RObil (Reuben), are also shown here." (1. B., i. 132.) Digitized by Google CHAPTER IX. PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS {coMimud), Tyt\ (Sur). Sidon (Saida). Tripoli (Tarabulus, or Alrabulus) : The Old and the New Town— The Ca>Ucs of the Assassins. Htms (Einessa) : The Talisman against Scorpions. HamaJi (Ilainath): The Ajictenl Castle. Akppo(li9i!Bh)i Ibn Butlin's Description— The Castle. Amiioeh (AntSkiyjah) : Christian Churches and Convents-^Description by Ibn Butl&n— The Great Storm of the Year 1050 a. u.- Tradition of Halnb an Najar. Tarnts : The Frontier Fortress, and the Garrison. sfR (tVRE).* A CUV of the Jordan Province," writes Va'kiibi. '* It is tiie chief town of the coast districts, and contains the Arsenal {Dar as Sand'a/i). I'rom here sail the Sultan's ships on the cxj^editions against the (Ireeks. It is a beautiful place, and fortified. The population is of mixed nationality." (Yb., 115.) ''SQr in the Jordan Province is one of the most strongly fortified of the sea-coast towns. It is populous, and its lands are fertile. I'hey say it is the most ancient of the coast towns» and that most of the Greek philosophers were fsova it." (Is.» 59 : I. H., 114.) Mukaddasi in 985, writes : " Tyre is a fortified town on the sea, or rather in the sea, for you enter the town through' one gate only, over a bridge, and the sea lies all round it. The city consists of two quarters ; the first being built on the terra firma ; while the second, (the harbour) beyond this, is an area enclosed by triple * Tyre, in Hebrew J'sih-, becnmcs recjnlarly Sur in Aral)ic ; while the Arabic word Titr is the- mine given to Sinai« Tabor» and other conspicuous mountains or hills. See p. 72. Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 343 walls with no earth appearing, for the walls rise out of the sea. •Into this harbour the ships come every night, and then a chain is drawn across, whereby the (ireeks are prevciUcci imin molc>.iing thcin. Water i<; brought into the town by means of a vaulted aqueduct. Tyre is a beautiful and plea>aiu city. Many artificers dwell here, and ply their spe( ial trades. Between Tyre and Acre lies a bay of the sea, and thus the pruverb says * Acre is opposite Tyre ; but getting to it you will tire,' that is, travelling all along the sea-shore." (Muk., 163.) l yre was visited by N^ir-i-Khusrau in 1047. He writes in his Diary : " Five leagues from Sidon we came to Tyre, a town that rises on the shore of the sea. They have built the city on a rock (which is in the sea), after such a manner, that the town-wall, for one hundred yards only, is upon the dry land, and the remainder rises up from out the very water. The walls are built of hewn stone, their joints being set in bitumen in order to keep the water out. I estimated the area of the town to be a thousand (cubits;* square, and its caravanserais are built of five or six stories, set one above the other. There are numerous fountains of water ; the bazaars are very clean, also great is the quantity of wealth exposed. This city of Tyre is, in fact, renowned for wealth and power among all the maritime cities of Syria. The population for the most part are of the Shi'ah sect, but the Kid! (or judge) of the place is a Sunni He is known as the son of Abu 'Akil, and is a good man, also very wealthy. They have erected a Mash-had (a shrine, or place of martyrdom) at tiie eiiy .uaie, where one may sec great (juantities of carpets and hanguigs, and lamps and lanlerns of eold and silver. 'I he town itself sLmds on an eminence. Water i?» brought thereto from the mountain; and leading up to the town-gate they have built arches (for the aqueduct), along which the water comes iiUo the eitv. In these mountains is the valley (of the Hattaf), over against this city, aiui runnmg eastward, through which, after eighteen leagues, you come to the City of Damascus." (N. Kh., 11.) * The word arsA is, I suppose, to be understood. None of the MSS. give the measure tfniployed. ■ Digitized by Google 344 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. In I T 24 the Crusaders, under Baldwin II., besieged and took Tyre, and the Franks afterwards held the city till 1291, when it was retaken by the Muslims. "Sur,"says Idrisi, in 1154, "is a fine city upon the sea shore, where there is a harbour for vessels to moor in, and to sail from. It is a forlified place, and of ancient date. The sea surrounds it on three sides, and there is a large suburb. They make here long-necked vases of glass and pottery. Also a sort of white clothes-stuff which is exported thence to all parts, being extremely fine, and well woven beyond compare. The price also is very high ; and in but few of the neighbouring countries do they make as good a stuff." (Id., 11.) Tyre was visited by Ibn Jubair in 1 185. He writes of it in his Diary in the following terms : "Tyre is a town that is like a fortress, and it belongs to the Franks. Its streets and roads are cleaner than those of 'AkUL Many Moslems live here, and they are unmolested by the Infidels. The town is smaller than 'Akk&. The fortress is wonderfully built and impregnable. It has two gates only : one on the land side, one on the sea. The sea surrounds it on all sides save one. On the land side there are at the entrance of the city three gates, or may be four (one behind tlie oilier), each guarded by a high outer wall eoMiniaiuliiig the gate. The sea gate is entered between two high lowers, and then yuu c onie into the port, than which there is none mure wonderful among all the maritime cities. Surround- ing it on three sides lie the city walls, and on the fourth side it is closed in by a wall with an archway built of mortared masonry, and the ships come in under this archway, and anchor inside. Between the two towers, before mentioned, they stretch a mighty chain which prevents aught going in or out, and the ships can only pass when it is lowered. At this gate are guards who keep watch and ward on all whc) enter and depart. This port of Tyre is most famous and beautiful. 'Akka has a port like it, but which does not aflbrd anchorage to such large ships : and the port of Tyre is far the larger.'* (I. J., 308.) The same author continues : ** At the Land Gate of SOr is a iF^ spring of bubbling water, to which you descend by steps. Wells A Digitized bv Google mo VINCI A L CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 34S and cisterns are numerous within the city, and there is hardly a house without one/' (I. J., 314.; "Tyre," says Yilkfit, in 1225, "is a celebrated city, and a frontier fortress of the Muslims. The city is surrounded on three sides by the sea, and there is land only on the fourth side where the roadway is defended by a fortified gate. It stands out in the sea, as the palm of the hand does from the wrist. The Muslims first took the city in the days of 'Omar, and it remained m their hands in perfect pros|)erity till the year 518 (1124), when the Franks came against the city and Ijeleaguered and blockaded it, till it surrendered. Ihe ruler of Kj^ypt had tried to raise the siege, but the winds were contrary, and jierforee he had to sail hai k to l .gypt. Then they capitulated, and the Muslims all left the city, at^d none remained, except beggars, who could not move. The Franks have fortified Tyre and garrisoned it and rebuilt the town, and it remains in their hands even to the present day {122$). Tyre is counted as of the Jordan Province/'. (Yak., iii. 433 ; Mar., ii. 171.) Abu-1 Fid4 adds nothing to the descriptions just given, except to note that the city was reconquered by the Muslims in 690 (1391), at the same time as Acre and other coast towns, and was then laid in ruins, as it remains down to the present day ** (that is, 1321). (A. F., 243.) " Saladin,^ writes Dimashki, ** did not gain possession of Tyre, for in his days it remained in the hands of the Christians, and was only retaken by Salih ad Din Khalll, and it was he who laid it in ruins. In the space of forty*seven days he retook from the Christians the fortresses of Athlith, Haifa, IskandarAnah, Tyre, Sidon, BairOt, Jubail, Anufah, Al Bathrun, and Sarfand." (Uim., 213) Tyre was visited by Ibn Battitah in 1355, who found it a mass of ruins. He writes: "It was formerly proverbial for its strength, l)eing washed on three sides !)y the sea. Of the ancient walls and port traces remain, and of old there was a chain across the mouth of the port. ' (I. B., i. 130.) Digitized by Google 346 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, SAIDA (SI don). ** A city/' writes Ya kObi in 891, "at the foot of the Lebanon mountains. The town is entirely peopled by Peisians, who were brought here by the Khalif Mu'iwiyah." (Yk, 1 14.) "Saidiu^* writes Mukaddasi» "is a fortified city on the sea." (Muk., 160.) Sidon was visited by the Persian traveller N&sir-i-Khusniu, in 1047. He writes in his Diary : " From Bairfit we came on to the city of Saidi, likewise on the seashore. They cultivate here much sugar-cane. The city has a well-built wall of stone, and four gates. There is a tine Friday Mosque, very agreeably situated, the whole interior of which is spread with mattintr in coloured designs. The bazaars arc m> splendidly adurucd dial wlicn I !ir>t saw them I imagined the city to be decorated for the arrival oi the Sultan, or in honour of some good news. Whi n I in(}uired, howevi-r, llicy said it was customary tor ihcir city to be tiuis always beautifully adorned. The gardens and orchards ot the town are such that one might sa) each was a pleasance laid out at the fancy of some king. Kiosks are set therein, and the greater number of the trees are of those kinds that bear edible fruits." (X. Kh., 11.) "The town of Saida," reports Idrisi, "lies on the coast of the salt sea, and is surrounded by a wall of stone, that owes its origin to a certain woman of pagan times. Saidd is a large city, where , the markets are thronged and provisions are cheap. It is sur- rounded by gardens and trees, water is in plenty, and it has broad outlying districts. The city owns four districts (IkUm), which lie contiguous to the Lebanon Mountains. The first is the IkUm of Jaztn, through which runs the Widt al Hirr, which is noted for its fertility and the abundance of its fruits. The second is the Ikllm as Surbah, which is a fine district. The third is the Ikllm of Kafar Kiia. The fourth is the Ikltm ar RAmt, which is the name of a river that flows through the hills. These four districts contain more than 6co domains. The people of Saida drink from water that is l)roiight down tVum the mountains by an aqueduct. In the town is a celebrated spring, for during the spring months Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF 70M 347 there grow certain small fish of about the length of a finger, and some of them are mate and some of them are female, having organs to distinguish between the two. These fish are caught at the breeding time and dried. When they are to be used, you take one and scrape it and eat it dry, but should drink water after- wards, and it acts on a man as a strong aphrodisiac, so that he can enjoy women much as he will without suffering from exhaustion or debility. These lish are small and ot the form of the (iecko li/ard. They have fore and hind legs, hut small, and partly hidden. I myself have seen them many times." (Id., 15.) "Saidd," says \ akut, "is a city on the coast belonging to the Damascus l'ro\ince. It lies 6 leagues east of Tyre. Saida is called after .Saidun. son of !-^anakd, son of Kan'an (t'anaan), son of Nilh (Noah), it was during some years in the hand&_Qf__the Franks. There are quantities of vegetables grown all round the town, and the Narcissus flowers everywhere. In the year 504 (i 1 10) Ma dun (Baldwin?), who was the Lord of Jerusalem, went against Saidi with a large army and conquered it, giving the people (juarter, but harrassing them. It remained in the liands of the Christians till Saladin took it in the year 583 (1187). (Yak., iii. 439; Mar., ii. 174.) Abu4 Fid& writes : ** Saida, on the Damascus coast, stands on the seaside. It is a small town, but fortified. The road from Saida to Damascus is as follows : From Saida to Mashghai^ is 24 miles. Mashghari is one of the pleasantest of the towns of these parts. It has splendid trees and streams, and stands on a WddS. From Mashghar^ to K^mid (al Lsmz), which in old times was the chief town of the district, is 6 miles. From Kainid to the domain called 'Ain al Jarr is 18 miles ; and from 'Ain al Jarr to Damascus is also iH miles. Total from Saida to Damascus 66 miles." ( A. 1 ., 249.) Sidon was visited by Ibn Hatutah m i.)55. He speaks of it as a town full of fruit-trees, the exports being tigs, raisins and olive oil, which are carried to ligypt. (1. li., i. 1 32.) Digitized by Google 348 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. TARABULUS) OR ATRABULUS (tRIPOLi). ''A town," writes Ya'kuhi in 891, "inhabited by Persians l)rought hither by the Khah'f Mu'Awiyah. The place has a fine harbour, capable of containing a thousand ^hips. ' (\ b.. 1 14.) \\'nting in the ^car 869, f^iladhuri says: "When "Othnian ' became Khahf, and Mu'awiyah was first made Governor of Syria, he despatched Sufyan ibn MOjib al Azdi against Atrabulus, which was at that time a city containing Three Towns united into one. Sufyan l)uilt a fort in a meadow a few miles distant, calling it Hisn Sufy.^n, thereby cutting off aid to the city from all sides, and the people could get no succour either by sea or by land. Then the people sent to the King of Ktaa (Constantinople), and he despatched ships, and they escaped to them by night ; and when Sufyan entered the city he found the place empty. Mu*&wiyah colonized the place with Jews, and they are those who live at the harbour to this day. The Khalif 'Abd al Malik rebuilt and refortified Tar&bulus." (Bil, 167.) According to Istakhrf: **Tarabu1us, or Atrabulus, in the Damascus Province, is a city of great plenty, with excellent crops and fruits^ for the lands are wonderfully fertile. Living is cheap. It is the port of Damascus, and lies on its coast. The Damas- cenes are in garrison here, as also other men from other parts of the province, and they set out from here on their uulitary expedi- tions. The people of Tripoli are not so rough and frivolous as • are the Damascenes : they are given tu good works, and will listen to the exhortation of the preacher. The lands round are fertile, i;rowini< jialms and sugar-canes." (Is., 61 : I. H., 116.) "Tarabuius," says Miikaddasi. "is a fortilied city on the sea. It is a finer town than either Saida or Haintt. ' (Muk., 160.) Tripoli was visited by Nilsir-i-Khusrau in 1047. He writes in his Diary : From Aleppo to Tarabuius is 40 leagues. The whole neigh> bourhood of the town is occupied by fields, and gardens, and trees. The sugar-cane grows here luxuriously, as likewise orange and citron trees, also the banana, the lemon, and the date. They 'vere, at the time of our arrival, extracting the juice of the sugar- Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 349 cane. 'J'he town of Tripoli is su situate that three sides thereof arc on the sea, and when the waves beat, sea-water is thrown up on to tlie ver)' city walls. The fourth side, which is towards the land, is protected by a mighty ditch, lying eastward of the wall, across which opens an iron gate, solidly built. The walls are all of hewn stone, and the battlements and embrasures are after the like work. Alon^ the l)attlements are placed balistae (^arrddah), for their fear is of the (ireeks, who are wont to attempt the place in their ships. The city measures 1,000 cubits long, by the like across. Its hostelries are four and five stories high, and there are even some that are of six. The private houses and bazaars are well built, and so clean that one might take each to be a palace for its splendour. Every kind of meat, and fruit, and eatable that ever I saw in all the land of Persia is to be had here, and a hundred degrees better in quality. In the midst of the town is the great Friday Mosque, well kept, and finely adorned, and solidly constructed. In the mosque court is a large dome, built over a marble tank, in the middle of which is set a brazen fountain. In the bazaar, too, they have made a watering-place, where, at five spouts, is abundant water for the people to take from . aiul the overflow, going along the ground, runs into the sea. They say there are twenty thousand men in this city, and the place possesses many territories and villages. They make here very good paper, like that of Samarkand, only of better quality. The citv of Tripoli belongs to the (Fatimite) SuUan of l\gy{>t. The origm, as I was told, of this is that when, a certain time ago, an army of the infidels from Byzantium had eome against the city, the Muslims from Egypt came and did light the infidels, and put them to flight. The Sultan of Egypt has remitted his right to the land-tax (khardj) in the city. There is always a body of the Sultan's troops in garrison here, with a commander set over them, to keep the city safe from the enemy. The city, too^ is a place of customs, where all ships that come from the coasts of the Greeks, and the Franks, and from Andalusia, and the Western lands (called MaghrUf\ have to pay a tithe to the Sultan, which sums are employed for providing the rations of the garrison. The Sultan also has ships of his own Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. here, which sail to Byzantium, and Sicily, and the West, to carry merchandise. The people of Tripoli are all of the Shi*ah sect. The Shi'ahs in all countries have built for themselves fine mosques. There are in this place houses like Rib&ts (which are caravanserais, or watch-stations), only that no one dwells therein on guard, and they call them Mash-hads (shrines, or places of martyrdom). There are no houses outside the city of Tripoli, except two or three of these Mash-hads." (N. Kh., 6.) " Atrabulus of Syria,'' according to the report of Idrts!, " is a great city, dtfcndeci by a stone wall, and imnregnable. It has villages, and territories, and fine domains ; aiul utany trees such a.s olives, vines, sugar cane, and fruit-trees of all kinds, and ot" all manner of crops a variety beyond count Coining and going there is perpetual. Tlie sea embraces the town on three sides, and it is (jne of the ^reat fortresses of Syria. All sorts of wares are brought thither, and oi' stuffs and merchandise great (quantities. To Atrabulus belong a nutnber of forts and castles which are garrisoned from this place, and are in the jurisdiction thereof. Of these are 'Anaf al Hajar, Hisn al Kalamfln, Uisn Abu-1 'Adas, and Artftsiyyah (Orthosia). Of chief domains there are four belonging to Tripoli that are very celebrated. These are the well- kno%vn villages of Ash Shafikah, Az ZaitOniyyah, Ar Ra'ibiyyah, with Al Hadath and Aroyfln.''^ Belonging to the town are lands with olive-trees and gardens growing all sorts of fruits and crops in plenty. Lying 4 miles to the south of the town is a fort built by Ibn Sinjil (Count Raymond of St. Giles, in 1 104), the Frank, from which he came and conquered Tripoli. This is an impreg< nable fortress on a height between two Widts. ** Opposite the city of Tripoli are four islands in a row. The first of them, and the nearest to the land, is the Narcissus Isle (An Narjis) ; it is very small, and is unoccupied. Then comes the Isle of the Column i^Ai *Amud\ then Monk's Isle {Ar JidJiil>\ and then the Isle of Ardhakt^n (or Udhakun)." (Id., 17.) On the margin of one of the MSS. of Idrisi is the following : "The inhabitants of Tripoli ha\e already removed towards the •"<^^main, and have built another city of the .same name at a * The reading of these names is very UoubtfuL Digitized bv Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 351 place which h'es 4 miles from the sea. All that remains of the ancient city is the mosque, which is still used It is called J ami* al 'Umari. I myself have stayed there some days when we were stationed for defence on the coast. The people lied from the old town on account of their fear of the enemy, who used to make incursions. The new town has no wall, except a short piece towards the sea. It was built by the Amir Manjak (the C'.ovemor of Tripoli)in the year 76$ ( 1 366),* during the reign of Sultan Sha'ab&n." Yikflt adds nothing to the foregoing. (Yik., i. 307 ; iii. 523 ; Mar., i. 74; ii. 198.) Tripoli, which was taken by the Crusaders in 1 104, was retaken by the Muslims under Sultan Kala'On in 12 89. Taribulus," says Dimashki, *Ms the capital of the Province of that name. After Sultan Kala'Cin, at the head of the Muslim army, had retaken Tar&bulus« a new city was built on a spur of the Lebanon Mountains about 5 miles distant from the old tovm of Tarabulus, which had been laid in ruins. The new town lies on the bank of a stream that lalls into the hca, and stands partly on the mountain atul [ arlly in the jtlain, being both on the sea and near the open countrv. \Vaier Hows into the city from all sides, and there is nn aqueduct on arc hes \s hi( ii brings the water from a valley in the niuuniams. This acjucduct carries the water at a height of near 70 ells, and is about 200 ells lone The river aforesaid flows underneath it, watering the lands, and thence (lowing into the sea. There is hardly a house in the town that has not trees (in its court) in numbers, for the waters flow everywhere, coming down from the Lebanon Mountains. In the gardens of larabulus are all kinds of fruits^ such as you find nowhere el.se. The sugar rnne, and the sycamore, and sage-plants in grcnt quantities, also the colocassia (Kalkds). Vou get here sea-fish and birds of all varieties^ such as you can get in no other single place." (Dim., 207.) The same author continues: '* Belonging to the Tardbulus District are the following places: Al Bathrftn (Botrys), a place conquered by Al Malik al MansOr (Kald*<lln). It has extensive lands. Anafah, a well«built town lying on the coast, and Antartds. * See G. Weil, CcschUhU der Chalifen^ iv. 522. Digitized by Google 353 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Hisn 'Arki and Hisn Halbi, both with broad lands, and both the chief towns of their respective districts. Jfin and Rajatiyah, two fortresses dismantled in our own day. Also the town of Maiakiyyah on the coastj an ancient city with extensive lands. JOmah 'Akkar, Jdmah Bashariyyah, and Al KArah. *'0f the Tar^bulus Districts also are : Al Bukai'ah, where there is a fortress, and An Nll*im. Also the Nusairiyyah Mountains, among which lie al>out twenty districts, extending from Al I^dhikiyyah and Sahvun towards Al liathrun. 'I'hc c astles ot tlie Assassins ( A'i7a od Daiviyah) belong to the districts ol Taral>ulus. These have l)cen lately built h\ Rashid ad Din Muhammad, the disciple of Ala ad Din 'Ah, who holds the fort of Al Alaniaui in Persia near Kaswin. He is the Chief of the Assas->ins. whose sect is celebrated for its impiety. They are called Isniailians also. Among their castles are Hisn al Khawabi ; Hisn al Kahf, where there is a cavern in which Ra^hid ad Din, it is said, once took refuge, and now lies buried ; or, as others say, has only disappeared, and will appear again according to the belief of his people. Hisn al Kadmijs, where during the months of Tammftz and Ab numbers of serpents appear in a certain hot bath. Hisn al Ullaikah, Hisn al Mainakah, Hisn ar Rusaiah lie on the spurs of the lar4z (Mountains) towards Damascus. Also Hisn Abi Kubais* and Thughr Masy&f. This last is the mother fortress of them all. The Assassins chosen are sent out thence to all countries and lands to slay kings and great men/' (Dim., 208.) Abu4 Fid& adds nothing to the above in his descnptton of Tripoli ; he gives the distance thence to Ba*albakk as 54 miles» to Damascus as 90 miles, and to AntartAs (Tortosa) as 30 miles. (A. F., 253.) The new town of Tripoli was visited by Ibn Batdtah in 1355. He describes it as: "Traversed by water-channels and full of gardens. The houses are newly built. The sea lies 2 leagues distant, and the ruins of the old town are seen on the sea-shore. It was taken by the Franks, but Al Malik ath 1 hdhir retook ii from them, and then laid the place in ruins and built the present town. There are fine baths here." (I. B., i. 137-) * Bokcbeis, of ihe Crusading Chrontclet. Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF. TOWNS. 353 HIMS (EMESSA). '* HtiDii," writ66 Va'k(ibf, in 8qi, "is one of the largest cities in Syria. It is situated on a broad river, the water of which the inhabitants drink. The city has many districts round it, among which is that called Al Baroah/' (Yb., 1 1 1 . ) ** Hims," writes Mas'ftdi, "is noted for the personal beauty of its inhabitants." (Mas,i. 125.) "The Empres> Helena built here a chiir( h U)ur piers {(irkiin)^ which is one of the wonders ot" tiie world. ' (Mas., ii. 312.) "The streets oi Him> were of old paved with flag-stones, and the same may be noted at tlie present day.'' (Bil., 134 j also I. F,, 110.) *• Of the wonders of Hiin^/' <>ays Tbn nl Fakih, " is an image whi( h stands over the gate of the Jami Mosque, facing the church. This is of white stone, and the upper part of the image is in the form of a man, the lower being in the form of a scorpion. If a scorpion stings a man, let him take clay and press it on the image, and then dissolve the clay in water and drink it. It will still the pain, and immediately he will recover. They say this image i.s a talisman specially made against scorpions." (I. F., r 10.) Hims," writes Istakhrl, is the capital of the province of the same name. 'I'he city lies in a fertile plain ; it enjoys an excellent climate^ and its soil Is one of the best in Syria. Its people are extremely handsome. There are neither scorpions nor snakes in Hims, and should one enter the place, it dies. Water, trees, and arable fields are seen everywhere, and most of the village lands are watered by the rains (not artificially irrigated). There is here a church, half of which is used as a Mosque, while the other half belongs to the Christians, and they have here their chapel and altar. 'J his church of theirs is one of the largest in Syria. The Greeks have invaded this c oumry during our own days (tenth eenlury), and ruined many of its lands and villages. The desolation is gaining everywhere, since these incursions of the Infidels he^an, and though the people are scekuig to return to ttieir old honied, the Badawin Arabs eat up their crops, and plunder their land, time after time. Nearly all the streets and markets of Hims arc «3 Digitized by Google 354 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. flagged or paved with stones.'' (Is., 6t ; I. H , 117; copied in part by A. F., a6i.) Mukaddasi, writing in 985, says of Emessa : ''There is no larger city than this in all Syria. There is a citadel high above the town, which you perceive from afar olT. Most of the drinking-water is obtained from the rainfall, but there is also a river. When the Muslims conquered this place they seized the church, and turned the half of it into a Mosque. In the market place near by is a cupola, on the top of which is bccii the figure of a man in brass, standing upon a lisli, and the same is turned by the lour winds. About this figure they relate many stories, but these are unworthy of credence. This tcnvii lias sulTered urcat misfortunes, and is indeed threatened with ruin, Its men are witless. The other town?, of these ]>nrts nre also falling to decay, though jirices are moderate, and such of tliem as are 01^ the coast are well provided with ramparts." (Muk., 156.) "There is at Hims a talisman — it is the wind-vane, and it serves against scorpions. For whosoever takes clay and presses it thereon, by Allah's p)ermission, will obtain a cure for their sting ; and the cure is effected by the impact of the figure on the vane, not by the clay alone." (Muk., 186.) In 2099 Hims was captured by the Crusaders. Idrtsi reports in 1154 : Hims, the capital of the Province of the same name, is a fine town standing in a plain. It is populous, and much frequented by travellers who come there for its products and rarities of all kinds. Its markets are alwa)'s open. The ways of the people are pleasant ; living with them is easy, and their manners are agree- ' able. The women are beautiful, and are celebrated for their fine skins. The drinking water is brought to the city by an aqueduct from a village near JAsiyyah, about a day's march from the city in the dire( tion of Damascus. The river Urunt (Orontes), called also Al Maklub, flows by the gate (of Hims), and there are gardens one alter anotlxr along it. belonging to the city, witli trees and many water cliannels. They bring the fruit from the^e gardens into the town. Since the beginning of Islam this has Ven of all cities that which has produced most grapes; but now Digitized bv Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 355 these gardens are for the most part laid waste. The soil is excellent for the tilling and raising of crops ; and the climate is more equable than that of any other town of Syria. There is here (in Hiros) a talisman which prevents the entrance of any serpent or scorpion, and should one enter through the gate of the city it immediately dies. For on the summit of a high dome which is in the middle of the city, is an idol of brass in the figure of a man, riding, and it turns with every wind that blows. In the wall of the Dome is a stone on which is the figure of a scorpion, and when a man is stung or bitten, he lays on this stone some clay, and then puts the clay on the bite, and immediately he becomes healed. All the streets and lanes of the city are paved with blocks of hard stone. The agriculture of the province is extremely productive, and the cultivated ground needs but very little rain or irrigation. There is a large Mosque here, it is one of the largest of all the cities of Syria.'' (Id., 18.) Himswas visited in 1185 by the traveller Ibn Jubair who notes in his diary that he stopped in the KhSn as Sabil. He continues : '* It is a fine city standing in a jilain, but wantini; in water and trees, shade and fruit ; and abuunduig in dust. Water is brought toil by a canal from the river 'Asi (the Orontes), which is about a mile distant. Along the river are gardens. The I)eople of Hinis are noted for their courage and jicrseverance in war. Those of Haiab rank ne\t to them in tl:iis (juality. The air of Hiiiis is moist, and the hrec/e pleasant. On the south of the town is a strong castle. On the east of the town is a cemetery in which is the tomb of (the .Arab General) Khalid ibn Al Walld, and that of his son, 'Abd ar Rahman ; also the tomb of 'Ubaid Allah, the son of the Khalif Omar. The walls of Hims are very ancient and strong, being built of well laid biorks of black stone. The city gates are of iron, of great height, and above each of them is a high tower. There are many fine markets here. Not far distant is Hisn al Akrad (the Castle of the Kurds),* which is a strong place, but belonging to the enemy. There is no Miristan (or hospital) in Hims, and only one Madrasah (or college).' • See Part II. 23 9 Digitized by Google 356 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. YSk0t (in T225) speaks of Hims as "a large and celebrated town. It is walled, and on the south is a strongly lortified castte Standing: on a liigh hill. Hims lies half wav between Damascus and HaUb. i'he tombs of Kh4Ud ibn Al VVaUdand of other C:om- panions of the Prophet are here. To the west of the road from Hamah, near Hims, is the Unint (Orontes river). Hims was built by the ancient Greeks, and the Olives of Palestine were of their rearing.* Hims ivas conquered by Khalid shortly after Abu 'Ubaidah ibn Al Jarr&h had taken Damascus. It capitulated and was ransomed for 71,000 DInirs (^55,500; Ibn al Fakih, p. no, gives the figure at 170,000 Dtnirs, or ;i£^J>5,ooo). Half the Church of Yuhanna (St. John) was turned into a mosque. Of the wonders of Hims is a figure over the gate of its Mosque beside the church. On a white stone above rs the figure of n. man, and below the figure of a scorpion. Anyone who takes clay nf the ground near and presses it on this figure, oluains a sur^ antidote agnin>t scorpion stings, for if he drink some water in which thi^ clax i> mixed he will he immediately cured of the sting. At Hini-^ is the Mash-had (Oratory of the Khalif) 'All ibn Abu Trslih, and tlu re i> a column on which is >een the mark ot hi^ fingers, and certain j)ersons have seen iiim iure in sleep. 1 here is also hero the house of Khalid ibn al Walid, and Ins tf)ml* therein, although of a truth he died and was buried at Al Madinah. Near his tomb is that of 'lynd ilni (ihanam. Some, however, say Khalid died at a village about a mile from Hims. Others say the so called tomb of Khalid is that of Khalid ibn Yazid ibn MiiTnviyah who built the Kasr (or Palace) at Hims, the remains of which are still to be seen on the west of the high-road." (Yak., ii. 334-33^ J ^^^^ y 320.) ** Hims," says Dimashki, " is the capital of the province of that name^ and is an ancient city; of old it was called SOriya. Its climate is most salubrious. No scor(»ion$ can live here, for there is a talisman against them. This consists in a Dome^ built without any door. You take a certain clay from one of the hills of Hims, and rub it on the walls of this Dome, and then leave it till it dries. This clay is exported to all countries. And when a * The fact is also slated by Ibn al Fakih, in 903 (I. F., no). Diqitized by Google i'ROVIMClAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWN:i. 357 piece of it is thrown on a scorpion, it kills him. Under all the houses of Hims are one or two caverns, where there are springs of drinking water. It is thus a city over a city. Its people are remarkable for their ^,nulll wit. ' (Dim., 202.} "Hiiiis, writes Abu-l Fida, "has gardens Uuu are watered by the Nahr al 'Asi (Orontcs). Muhallabi speaks of Hims as the capiial of the Jund (province;, and a>. being one of the healtliiest places in .Syria, About a mile uiitMik liima runs ihe Nahr al Maklul) (the Ortuuc^). Thev have beautiful gardens and vine- yards. It is said that when ( luthcsare washed in the Hims water no snake or scorpion will harm the wearer until they have been washed in other water again. The people of Hims are cele- brated for the beauty of their skin." (A. F., 261.) Hims was visited by Ibn Hatatah in 1355. He speaks of the fine trees and good markets here, noting that outside the town he saw the tomb of KhAHd, sumamed the Sword of God. ** There is a beautiful Jdmi' Mos(|ue with a tank in its midst The people are Arab in race, excellent and noble.'* (I. B., i. 141.) hamAh (hamath, epiphania). *'An ancient city on a river called Al Urunt (the Orontes)/' (Yb., no.) Hamfth in the Hims Province," write Istakhri and Ibn Haukal, " is a small town, but very pleasant to live in, having plenty of water, and tiees^ and fields, and fruits." (Is., 61 ; I. H., 116.) Ndsir-i-Khusrau, in 1047, writes in his Diary : **l he city of Hama is well populated ; it stands on the bank of the river 'Asi (Orontesj. 1 iiis stream is called the 'Asi (meaning * the Rebel for the reason that it flows towards the Greek terri- tory ; that is to say, it is a Rebel to go from the lands of Islam to the lands of the Inlidel. They have set up numerous water- wheels ua itii l)anks.'* (N. Kh., 5.) The traveller Ibn Jubair spent some days in Hamah during the year 11 ^^5, ;(nd has given a long and rather \ crbose description of the town m his Diary. Of this the following is a somewhat condensed translation : Hamah is a very celebrated, ancient, populous and fruitful city. To the east thereof a great river (the Orontes) runs broadly Digitized by Google 3S8 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. along its !)ed, and on it are water- wheels [dulah) in great numbers for irrigating the fields. On the river bank, in the suburb, are well fitted latrines, with a number of cells through which water flows coming from the water-wheel. On the other bank of the river, near the lower town— is a small Jdmi' Mosque, the eastern wall of which is pierced (with windows), and above are arcades through which you get a magnificent view. Opposite the passage of the river, and in the heart of the town is the Castle- hill In the Castle they have their water from the river by a channel which comes up there, so that there is no fear ever of thirst. The situation of the city is as though it lay above a low valley with broad extended lands» from which you go up on both sides as from a deep ditch to the city itself, which is perched on the slope of the hillside. Both the upper and lower town are small. But the city walls are high and go right round, enclosing the upper shoulder of the hill. The lower city is surrounded by walls on its three sides, the fourth being defended by the river. Over the river is a great bridge built of solid blocks of stone. This goes from the lower town to the suburb. The suburb is large, with many Khans, and there are the shops of all manner of artifi< er> and mercliants, where travellers may nnciall ihcy require, and so do not need to enter the luwn. 1 Ik nuukets of the upper town are niure numerous and richer than those of the lower, and they are places of gathering fur all manner of mer- chants and artifi<frs. The upper town has a Jami' Mosque, larger than the Jami' of the lower town, als(j three Madrasahs (colleges). There is a Maristan (or hospital) on the river bank, opposite the Jami' as Saghir (the Small Mosque). Outside the city are gardens with trees and places of pleasant resort, on either side the river bank. The river is called A I 'Asi, ' the Kebel,* because apparently it rims from below upwards, its course being from south to north. To the south of Hamah it passes Hims, and in this southerly direction lies the cemetery of Hamih. On leaving Hamah (on the way to Hims), after half a stage, we crossed the river Al 'Asi (Orontes) by a great bridge of stone arches, across which lies the town of Rastan." (I. J., 257, 258.) Yakdt, and the author of the epitome called the MarAsid^ A Digitized bv Google PROVINCIAL CAITIALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 359 describe HamSh in the thirteenth century as a large town of the Hims Province, surrounded by a wall, very strongly built. *' Outside this wall is a most extensive suburb, in which are great markets, and a Mo$r|ue that stands above the river Al 'Asi. This suburb, too, has a wall round it, and it extends along the bank of the river Al 'Asi, where are Na'flrahs (water-wheels), which water the gardens and fill the tank of the Jami' Mosque. This suburb they call As SQk al Asfal (or the Ix)wcr Market), for it stands lower than the town, and the walled town above is called As SOk al A'la (or the L'jtpcr Market). In this siihurh also are many Madrasahs (coUci^cs), which >taii(l un the south hank of the 'Asi. lk->i(.lc the city stands an an« icnt ( astle woiulrously fortified and con>trii( ted. Al Malik al Mansur Muhammad ihn Takii nd Din 'Aiiir ihn SluhiiistKih )l)n Avyiili dnsj a ditfh hvrv of too ells and more in length. Thi^ castle is part of the am irnt t(»wn of the (pre Nlamic) Days of Ii,'norancc. mentioned liy the poet Imr al Kais in his verses. In the year 271 (884) Ahmad ihn at Tayyib describes this (castle) from eye-witness as a village with a stone wall in which were large stone buildings, with the 'Asi flowing in front of them, watering the gardens and turning the wator-wheels, but it is to he noted that he calls it a village. Beside the Lower Market also is a castle called Al MansOriyyah. It stands rather alx>ve the suburb, and to the left. In this I^ower Market are many shops and houses for merchants and bazaars." (Yak., it. 330; Mar., i. 318.) *' Kur(ln Hamah (the Horns of Hamah) are two peaks standing opposite each other. They arc the summits of a hill overhanging Hamah." (Yak., ii. 332.) ^ Hamih," says Dimashki, in 1 300, " is a provincial chief town, and seat of Government. A fine city, and well fortified, and with excellent provisions. The Nahr 'Asi flows between the two halves of the town, and the two are connected by a bridge. Along the 'Asi banks are huge water-wheels called Xa'i'irah, .such as you see nowhere else ; they raise the water from the river to irrigate the gardens. The phiee has many fruits, espei ially the apricot (J//.v//////>7/) called Kafflri I^uzi (camphorated with ahnond flavour;, which you will sec nowhere else." (Dim., 206.) Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. "HamAh."say> Abu 1 Kida, " sund.^ between the Hims and the Kinl1a^nn junvinces. It is a very ancient city, and one men- tioned in tlie houks of the Isradiics. It is one of tlic plcah.inlest places in Syria. 'J he greater part of the town to the east and north is surrounded by the river A si. There is a very high-ljuilt castle, well fortified. Within the town are mills turned by water, and all its gardens are watered by water-wheels (Na urah), and the water runs through roost of the houses. Hamah and Shaisar are noted above all other towns of Syria for the number of their water- wheels." (A. F., 263.) Ibn BatOtah passed through Hamih in 1355* After remarking that the river Al 'Asi (Orontes), which runs through the city, makes it a pleasant town to live in, with its many gardens full of trees and fruits, he speaks of the large suburb called Al Mans(^riyyah, with its fine market, and Mosque, and baths. In Ham&h are many fruits of excellent qualities, among others the almond- apricot. Its kernel, when broken, contains an almond. The water-wheels here are celebrated." (I. B., i. 141.) HALAB (aLEPPO). " Halab is the capital of the Kinnasrin disiric t, siiy l^iakhri and Ibn Haukal, wnimg in the latter half ui ihc tenth century, a.d. ** It was very populous, and tin people were possessed of much wealth, and commerce throve, for the city lies dh the high road between 'Irak and the Fortresses, and the rest of Syria. But the (ireeks took the city (under the Emperor Nicephorus),* and its stone wall was of no avail to it. They ruined the Mosque, and took away captive all its women and children, and burnt the houses. Halab had a castle, but it was not a strong place, and w s in no way well built. .Ml the population had fled up to it, thinking to take refuge therein (from the Greeks), and here most of them perished with all their goods and chattels. The remainder, both of the citizens and of the refugees from the country round, were all taken prisoners. I'he people of the district were all put to the sword. This is a sad matter to * In A.D. 961. The Jiyzantines held Alepix) for a very short time, and were unable to reduce the citadel Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 361 hear of, and great was the distress throughout Islam and among the Muslims. The city had originally five markets, and Ixiths, and hosteb, and quarters and broad squares. But Halab is now like a prisoner (being in the hands of the Infidels). ^* The river 6f Halab is called Abu-1 Hasan, or Kuwaik (the river Chalus). The drinking water of the population comes from this, and there is but little sediment in it. The prices here are still cheap, for in old days its pnxsjKrity was great, and its food stuffs abundant. But now every year the Oreeks take from them tribute, and they tax all the lands aiul farni>., I'he people of Halab ha\c ina<Ic a truce wilh ihc Cjitcks; but their guud-s are not a iweiilielh ul what they were." (Is., 61 : I. H., 117.) '* Halab,"' writes Mukacl»Ja>i in 9S5, " is an excellent, pleasant, and well luriilkd rity, the inhabitanis of which arc cultured and rid), and endowed with undcrsiaiulinu. 'I'hc ciiy is populous, and built of stone, standing in the midst of its lands. It possesses a well fortified and sjjacious castle, provided with water, and here is the Sultan's treasury. The great Mos(iue stands in the town. Tlic inha))itants drink the water of the Kuwaik river, which flows into the town through an iron grating, near by the palace of Saif-ad-I)aulah. I'he castle is not very lai^e, but herein the Sultan has his abode. The city has seven gates, namely : Bab Hims (Emessa (}ate},Bab-ar-Rakkah, Bkb Kinnasrin, Bab-al-Yahad (Gate of the Jews), Bab-aKIrak, Bab Ddr-al-Batikh (Gate of the Watermelon House), and Bab Antakiyyah (Gate of Antioch). I'he B&b-al-Arlia'ln (Gate of the Forty) is now closed." (Muk., 155) The seven gates mentioned by Mukaddasi, may be identified as follows: I. The Emessa Gate to the south, is marked as " Damascus Gate " in the plan given by Russell in his ** Natural History of Alej)po, ' 2nd cd., 17(^4. It is at the present day called Bab al Makam ( ibrahini), the (Jale of Abraham's Station. 2. Judj^Mug from tiic direcUon which Kakkah hears from .Mcppo the Rakkah (iate uiu.st lie the ' bab el Hadeed ' ol Ru.s.>ell, at the north-east angle of the W all. 3. The Kinnasrin (iate is at the suuihern end of the \\ e.si Wall. It was built i)y Saif ad Daulah ibn Hamdan. 4. Bab al Vahud, the Jewh Ciaie, is the present Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. B&b an Nasr, in the middle of the north wall, along which lies the Jews' Quarter. It was restored by Saladin's son, Al Malik adh Dh&htr, who changed its name to B&b an Nasr — Gate of Victory. (See below, p. 366.) 5. The 'Irak Gate, from its name, is most probably that to the south cast, marked by Russell as "the Gate of Xcereb." In the |>rLseiU plans of Aleppo, a road leaving the town at the sontli ca^t angle runs to the village of " Nerab." 6. I he Waierniclon lluuse Gate is proh iMv llie same as the r»al> al Janan, or, Gntc of the (iardcns. L^iw-n ti\ KusscU, and aUo mentioned by Yakut and oilieis under tins name. It is in the W'e^t Wall, a little to the north of the Antioch Gate. 7. The Antioch Gate is so called at the jiresent day. It opens about the middle of the West Wall, to the north of the liab Kinnasrin, and between it and the Gate of the Gardens. The Gate of the Forty is marked in Russell's plan as " Hab el Urbain." It is at the north-west angle, of the suburb which lies to the nonh of Aleppo, beyond the Bib an Nasr. The traveller N4sir-i-Khusrau, who visited Aleppo in 1047, writes in his Diary : " Halab is in appearance a fine city. It has great walls, whose height I estimate at 25 cubits (or 50 feet) ; also a strong castle, entirely built on the rock, which I consider to be as large as the castle at Balkh. All the houses and buildings of Aleppo stand close one beside the other. This city is the place where they levy the customs (on merchandi.se passing) between the lands of Syria and Asia Minor, and Diyar-Bakr, and Egypt, and 'Irak, and there come merchants and traders from out all tiicsr lands to Aleppo. The city has four gates— namely, Bab al \'ahud (the Je\\.s G<Uc >, Hah Allah (the ( iate of Allah ), iJab al Jin.\n(lhe (ialc of Paradise ), and Uab Antakiyah (the Gale of Antioch). The weight used in the ba/aars of this place is the Dhahiri Rati, which contains 480 Dirhams weight (or about 3] lb.)." (N. Kh., 2.) The Christian |)liysician Ibn Butlan (see above, p. 6) has left a description of Aleppo, written about the year 1051 a.d. This is transcribed by Yakut (Yak., ii. 306-308) in his article on this city ; and he cjuotes it from the /iisaluh (or Epistle) written by Ibn Buti4n to his friend Haldl ibn Muhsin. 1 he country at Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 363 this time was ruled by the dynasty of the Bani Mirdas. Ihn HulUm writes : *' We went from Ar Rusafah to Halab in four da\ s. Halal) is a town walled with white stones. There are aix gates ; and besides the wall is a castle (to defend it), in the upper part of which is a mos(iuc and two churches. In one of ihc?»e was the altar on which Abraham used to sacntice. Tn the lower part of the castle is a cave where he concealed his flocks. When he milked these, the juople used to come for their milk, crying, Halaba ya /<r /'—Milked yet, or not? — asking thus one of the other ; and hence the city came to be ( ailed Halab (milked). " In the town is a mosque and six churches, also a small Bimaristan (or hospital). The Jurisprudists are of the sect of the Imimites. The population drink from the water of cisterns that are fiUed by the rains. At the city gate is a river called Kuwaik, which rises in winter, but falls very low in summer. In the centre of the town is a high palace, which belonged to the mistress of Al Buhtur! (the poet). Halab is a town that has but little of fruit, vegetables, or wine, except what is brought thither from the Greek country. Of the wonders of Halab we may mention that in the Kais4riyyah (or bazaar) of the cloth-merchants are twenty shops for the Wakils (or brokers). These men every day sell goods to the amount of 20,000 Dinars (^ 10,000). and this they have done for the last twenty years. No part of Halab i> ai all in ruins. From ilalab we went on to Anlakiyyah, which is a day and a night's journey distant.** "Halab," as Idrisi reports, "is the capital of the Province of Kinna>rin. It is a large town, and very populous, lying on the high road to 'Irdk, and Fars and Khurasan. It has walls of white stone. The river Kuwaik flows at its gate, which is a small stream with but little water. Water is lul tlKrefrom by means of underground channels going into the town, and is dis- tributed through the markets, streets, and houses. The people of the town drink of this, and make use of it for all purposes. In the Castle of Halab is a spring of excellent water." (Id., ^5 ) The traveller Ibn Jfuljair visited Aleppo in 1 185. The follow- Digitized by Google 364 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, ing is an abridged tranahtiun of the account given in his Diary : " Halal) lies a night's journey Ironi Al lidb and Ruza'ah. It is a place of saintly remains, with a cclel)rated and unpregnable castle. It w*as the city of the Hamdanide Princes, whose dynasty is now passed away. b;\if ad Daulah made it as a bride for l>eauty of api>earance. The casUe stands on the hill, whither, in ancient times, Abraham was wont to retire at night with his flocks there to milk them {halal>a) — giving away of the milk in alms. Henc^ as it is said, is the name of Halab. There is a Mash-bad (or oratory) there, much visited by the people. A copious spring of water rises in the castle, and they have made two cisterns here to store the water. Round these tanks are double walls. On the city-side of the castle is a deep ditch, into which the surplus water runs. The castle has high walls and towers, and the Sultan*s habitation is here. In the town are fine and wide markets, covered in by wooden roofs. Shady streets* with rows of shops, lead up to each of the gates of the J^mi' Mosque. Very fine is this mosque, and beautifully paved is its court There are fifty and odd doors o])cninn tliciciii. In the court of the mosque are two wells. The wood work ot ll.ilah is of excellent renown. 1 he Mihraij (or prayer-niche; ot the nio^ijiie is very beautiful, with wood-work up to the roul, ornaincntall\ < arved, and inlaid with rare woods, and i\iiry, and ebony. 1 he Mimhar (or pulpit) is also most exquisite lo behold. Un the we.^tern side of the mosque is the Madrasah (or college) of the Hanafiles, with a ime garden. In the city are four or live other M;idrasahs like to this one, also a Maristan (or hospital) Suburbs lie all round the city, with numberless Khdns and gardens. A small river runs out of the city towards the south (called the Kuwaik)."' (I J., 252.) "Halab," says Yak&t, "is the capitiil of the Kinnasrin Province. It has an excellent climate, and is full of good things. It is said to be called Halab, because .Xbraham, when he abode herei used to milk {Jiahba) his flocks at Halab. Another account is that Halab, Hims, and Bardha'ah, were three sisters of the Bani 'Amalik (Amalakites), and that each of them founded a city, which was called after her name.'' (Yak., ii. 304 ; Mar., L 313.) Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 365 " Barawwd (Benea) was the ancient name of Halal) in Syrian, and the city was built by Batalimyus ibn Laghils (Ptolemy Lagus)." (Yak., i. 465 ; ii. 305 ; Man, i. 118.) " A surname of Aleppo is /I/ BaidA, ' the ^\'hile,' because of the whiteness of the ground in its neighbourhood." (V4k., i. 792 ; Mar., i. 190.) Y^kdt next proceeds to give Ibn Butldn's description of Aleppo^ translated a1x>ve, and continues : '* In the Castle of Halab is the Mak&m Ibrahim (Station of Abraham), the Friend. Here there is a chest, in which is a piece of the beard of Yahyd ibn Zakariyya (John the Baptist) — ^peace be on him ! — which was discovered in the year 435 (1044X ^^^^ the Ba)> al Janftn (the Gate of the ( hardens) is the Mash-had (or oratory of the Khalif) 'Alt ibn Abi Talib, where he was seen by a person in a dream. Within the Bab al 'Ir&k is the mosque called Ghauth (of Succour), in which is a stone, whereon may be seen an inscription, said to be in the handwritin<^ of the Khalif 'Ali. Many other celebrated mos(|ues and s.uiLtuarics arc here to he seen. To the soutli ol llie (castle) hill is the one Cemetery of Aleppo, and near it the Makam, which is called the Makam Ibrahim (the Station of Abraham ). Outside the Bah al Vahud (the Jews" (late, to the north) is a stone near the road-side, where vows are put up to Allah, and over it they are wont to pour rose- water and perfumes. Muslims, Jews, and Christians ahke make visitation to this spot : for it is said that under it is the grave of one of the prophets. Verily T (V'lkOt) have visited Halab, and it was of the best of all lands for agriculture. They cultivate here cotton, sesame {Samsaf/i), water-melons, cucumbers, millet {Dukhn)^ vines, mai/e {Ourrah)^ also a]»ricots, figs, and apples. They have only the rains to water their lands, and yet they raise abundant crops, and of such richness as I have not seen in other lands." (Yik., ii. 308.) The same author continues : *' The castle of Halab is a wonder to behold, and has become proverbial for strength and beauty (13th century). Halab lies in a flat country. In the centre of the city rises a perfectly circular and high hill, which has been scarped artificially, and the castle Digitized by Google 366 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. is built on its summit. It has a deep ditch, which has been dug sufficiently deep to reach the water springs. Inside the castle is a reservoir which is filled with pure water. Also within the ca-^tlc is a janii' Mosque, aiul a Matdan (or race-course), and gardens of consickrahlc e xtent. Al Muhk adh Dhahir (ihazi, the son of Salad in, ii was who rebuilt this eiiy, and dui^ the ditch. *' Halnh has seven gates at the present day : Bah Arha'in ((iate of the Forty) ; Bah al YahOd (date of the Jew^), which was restored by Al Malik adh Dhahir, and renamed Bab an Nasr (C»ate of Victory); Bab al Janan ^the (late of the Gardens); Bab Antakiyyah ; Bab Kinnnsrin ; liab al Irak; and Bab as Sirr (the Secret Postern (late)." (Yak., ii. 310.) " Halab," writes Dimashki about the year 1300, " is a city that has been laid in ruins by the Tartars. It has a strong fortress called Ash Shahba (the Gray, or Gray -white), on account of the white colour of the stone used. Of old« Halab was the equal in size of Baghdad or Al Mausil, and its people prided themselves on their fine raiment and personal comeliness and horses and houses. ' The river Kuwaik runs by it." (Dim., 202.) Abu4 Fidd about the same period remarks : Halab in the Kinnasrtn province is a laige and very ancient city, with a high-built and strong castle. There is to be seen here Abraham's Station. Halab has few gardens, though the Kuwaik river runs by the town. It lies on the road from Trik to the Frontier Fortresses. From Halab to Kinnasrfn is 12 miles. Muhallabi describes Halab as a fine city, with stone walls, well- bnilt and populous, with an impregnable castle it its centre. Halab lies 36 milci from Ma'arrali and 15 leagues from Balis." (A. P., 267.) Alei>iio was visited by Ibn JJalutah in 1355. He s])eaks of it as a large and niagnilkent city, and (juotes Ibn Jubair s descrip- tion. " Its castle is railed Ash Shahba (the (Iray), and within it are two wells with springs of fresh water. Round the castle are double walls and towers and a ditch. The Mash-had there is called the Oratory of .Abraham. It is also called Halab Jbrahim^ that is to say, the Fresh Milk of Abraham, for he lived here and gave the milk of his cattle to the poor. The Kaisariyyah (or Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS. 367 Bazaar) of Halab is very iine and unic|ue lor beauty. It goes all round the Mosque, and the streets of shops (in the Bazaar) lead up each to one of the Mosque gates. This Jami' Mosque is one of the finest in the world. In its court is a tank of water, and all round is a fine colonnade. The Mosque pulpit is a marvel of ivory and ebony. There are in Aleppo a Maristan (hospital) and many colleges. Outside the city is a vast plain, where fruit-trees and vines ore cultivtited. There are also gardens on the banks of the 'Asi (Orontesy a mistake for the Kuwaik), which flows by here, passing Halab/' (I. B., i. 146-151.) ANTARIYYAU (ANTIOCH). The earlier Arab writers gi\-e the following curious notices of this city and its neighbourhood. Hiladhuri in 869 relates : "The road between Antakiyyah and Al Massissah (Mopsueslia) was of old infested with wild l)easts, and people met lions here. In the K-halif al Walkl's days they foniphiined imu h of this, and he sent there 4,000 ImtYaloes- l)ulls aiul cuw.s- and ihc>c Allah caused to sultkc tor the purjjose (of sntisfyini» the wild beasts). ()ther> were sent later also, Imt the>e are the first butlalocs tliat aime into S) ria. ' (i>il , i<)7 ; also I. P., T13.) 'i'he historian Mas'udi, who wrote, in 943, his voluminous work entitled " The Meadows of (lold," notices on several occasions the remarkable buildings of Antioch, and the natural peculiarities of the country. *' It is not denied (he says) by men of knowledge that there are in certain regions of the earth, towns and villages which no scorpions or serpents can enter. Such are Hiros, Ma'arrah, Misr (Cairo), and Antdkiyyah.*' (Mas, ii. 406.) ** The month of the latter K^nOn (January) has thirty-one days. On the first of the month is the day of the Kalandas (Kalends) which is a feast-day among the Syrians, At Antdkiyyah on the eve they make illuminations and exhibit the Eucharist (lAsimd), This takes place generally in the Church of Al Kusiydn, which is one of the most venerated churches of that city. The Christians Digitized by Google 368 PALESTINE UN DEE THE MOSLEMS, of Antakiyyali, both of great and of low degree, take part in these rejoicings and diversions, and in the h'ghting of illuminations ; lor in this city of AntSkiyj'ah is their Patriart h, and the day is held in much honour amotijj; il cin. The Christians call Anliorh the City of God, also the Citv of the Kinij, and the Mother of Cities, for Christianity wns first sliown forth here." (Mas, ii 406.) "There is at Ant.iki\ vali the Church of Paul, which is known also by the name of Dair al Baraghith (the Convent of Biiusi ; it stands adjoining the city l^.Uc c ailed Hah al Faris (the Knight's GateK 'lliere is also here another church, which they call Ashmdnit, where the C'hristians keep a festival, held high in honour a mong them, and this Church was originally in the hands of the jews. There are also here the Kanisah Barbara (Church of Barbara), and the Kanisah Maryam (of Mary), which last is a round church, and one of the wonders of the world for the beauty of its construction and its height. The Khalif Al Walid, son of 'Abd al Malik carried off from this church a number of marble and alabaster columns, of wondrous size, to place in the Mosque at Damascus. They were transported by water down to the coast near to Damascus. The greater number of the columns, however, still remain in the Church at Antioch, as may be seen at the present day.** (Mas., ii. 407.) ^< There is at Antakiyyah a building called Ad Dtm&s (the Cr) pt). It stands on the right-hand side of the Great Mosque, and is built of huge blocks of stone, as though of 'Adite (Cyclo- {)eian) days, and it is wonderful to see. On certain of the nii;hls of summer, the moon's (beams) as she rises eacii night, shine in through a different window. It is said lIi.u »hiN Ad Dinuis is a Persian building of tlie time when the Persians (under Sapor, in A.D. 260) held Aniaki)yah, and that it was built to be their Fire Temple." (Mas., iv. 91.) "At Antakiyyah, on a hill within i!ie city walls, is an ancient temple of the Greeks. At this place the Muslims have con- structed a watch-tower from whence guards, continually posted here, can spy out any who come by sea or by land from the Greek countf)'. This temple of old the (ireeks held in great veneration, and made their sacrifices therein. It was ruined by Constantine Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 369 the (Ireat, the son of Helena, who propagated the Christian religion. The place was at that tiiiic filled with idols and statues of gold and jewels of all kinds. Others affirm that tl»e temple in question stood in the city of Antakiyvah to the right of the present Jami* Mosque. This was a great temple also, and the Saha^ans report it to have been huilt by SaklabivAs. At the present day, in the year 332 a.m., there is at this place the Silk (or market) of the armourers and iance-makers. Thahit ibn Kurrah ibn Kacani, the Sahaean of Harran, who went to (the Klialif ) Al Mu'tadhid in the year 289 (902), visited this temple and showed great venera- tion for the same, and what we have said above comes from him. ' (Mas., iv. 55») The geographers Istakhri and Ibn Haukal give the following account of Antioch during the tenth century. It will be remem- bered that the city had come into the hands of the Muslims at the time of the first Arab Conquest of Syria in 635 ; in 964 the army of the Emperor Nicephorus Phocas reconquered Antioch, and it remained in the power of the Byzantines for the next hundred and twenty years. Istakhn (951) wrote immediately before the re-entry of the Greeks; Ibn Haukal (97H), his continuator, shortly after. Their account is the following : "Antftkiyyah is the capital of the 'Awasim Province. After I)amas< us it is the pleasantest place in Syria. At this |)rcsent time it has stone wall>, which go round the city an<.l en( lose the muuiuain (Silphius), that ovcthani^s it. Within this wall are fields and gardens, and inilK and iia>tiirL lands, and trees, and all manner ot j)lcasure-|)lat c^. of which the jieojile are very proud. They sa\ thai the circumference of the walls is a day's journe) . There is runnl^^ water in all the markets, the streets, and the hou.ses ; and also in the Jami' Mos<jue. The town possesses villages and farms, with many beautiful and fertile districts. Hut the enemy (the Greeks) have taken possession of them all. In point of fart some decrease of ]>rosperity had already taken phu e during the last days of the Muslims, hut the ruin has increased since the place came into the hands of the Greeks, who took it in the year (a.h.) 359. The Rock {as Sakhrak) which is in Ant^iyyah, is known as the Rock of Moses, and they relate that 24 Digitized by Google 370 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Moses met AI Khidr (St. Elias) in this place." (Is., 62 ; I. H., iiy, for tlic musl part copied by A. K., 233, 257.) The Rock of Moses, according lo other authorities, was shown at Sl\aru.in in Armenia. (Yak., iii. 282.) It may be noted that ihf vcar given as the date of the reconciiu -^i of Anlioch by the I'vAuuiiics, iiaiiu'l). 35(). corresponding with 970 .\.n., docs not agree exactl) with the Western account as (juoted in (lil)bon's Decline and Foil (< liajv UL, end), where the event is set down to the year 964 (a h. 353). Our next account of Antioch is from the pen of the physician Ibn Butlan, a Christian Arab, who visited the city in 105 1, and wrote a description of it in an epistle addressed to a friend at Baglidad. This epistle is quoted by Yakut, of which the follow- ing is a translation. "Sa}'S Ibn Butlan, in the epistle he wrote to Abu4 Husain Hilal ibn al Muhsin as Sabf, at Baghdad, in the year 440 and odd : We left Halab (Aleppo) intent on journeying to Antllluyyah (Antioch), and the distance is a day and a night's march : and we found all the countr)* between Halab and Ant4kiyyah populous, nowhere ruined abodes of any description. On the contrary, the soil was everywhere sown with wheat and barley, which grew under the olive-trees ; the villages ran continuous, their gardens full of flowers, and the waters flowing on every hand, so thai the traveller makes his journey here in contentment of mind, and peace and (iin'einess. Antakiy\ah is an immense city. It [)ossesses a wall and an outer wall i^Jas'ii). 'I'he wall has three hundred and sixty towers, and these are ]>atrolled in turn by four thousand guards, wiio arc sent to Antakiyyah every year, from the jMesence of the king in Constantinople, as warrant for the safe-keeping of the city, and in the second year they are changed. The ])lan of the city is that of a semicircle; its diameter lying along the mountain (Silphius), and the city wall climbs up over the mountain to it^ ver\ summit ; and further, the wall completes the semicircle (in the piam below). On the summit of the mountain, but within the wall, is a Castle (AVr/aV^), which appears quite small from the city below, on account of its distance up; and this mountain shades the city Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 371 from the sun* whi( h only begins to shine over the town about the second hour of the day. In the wall surrounding (the city) and in the part not on the mountain, are five gates. *' In the centre of the city is the church of Al Kusiyan. It was originally the palace of Kusiydn, the king, whose son, Futrus (St. Peter), chief of the disciples, raised to life.t It consists of a chapel {ffdikd/), the length of which is 100 paces, and the breadth of it 80, and over it is a church (XaftisaA), supported on columns, in which the judges take their seat to give judgment, also those sit here who teach Grammar and Logic. At one of the gates of this church is a Clepsydra {Finjtui), showing the hours. It works day and night continuously, twelve hours at a round, and it is one of the wonders of the world. '* In the upper i)ortioii (of tlie < iiy) are five terraces, and on the fifth of these are Uic l)aths, and i^ardens, where beautiful points of view are obtained. Vou may hear in this spot the murmuring of waters, and the cause thereof is tliat the waters run down near this plarc Ironi the mountain which overhangs the city. There are in Antakiy) ah more churches than can be counted : every one uf them ornamented with gold and silver, and coloured glass, and they are paved in squares. In the town is a Himaristan (or hospital), where the patriarch himself tends the sick ; and every ycir hr causes the lepers to enter the bath, and he washes their hair with his own hands. Likewise the king also does this service every year to the poor. 1 he greatest of the lords and patricians vie in obtaining of him permission to wash these poor people,' after the like fashion, and serve them. In this city there are hot baths, such as you can find the equal nowhere else in any other town for luxury and excellence ; for they are heated with myrtle wood {ai As)t and the water flows in torrents, and with no scant * NTotint Silpb'M> o\ crhafv^'s Anlioch on the smnh s'dc. i The clmrrh hen .\llu i- <1 to iiiust, I imagine, be thai ciedicafcd lo SS. Pcicr ami Paul, ami hmh \>y ihc Liuji ror Justinian, where, in later limes (nccoidin^ to the traveller Willebcand, of Oldenlmrg), the Leiin Prinors of Antioch were buried. Who is referred to under the name of Kusiyiin I have liven unable to disco%*er, neither is there any mention in the Hi'ole of St, Pttcr having raised a king's son to lif-; at Anti' clr Ac t r ying to Church trn liiion, lascd OD Gal. ii. II u^.f St. Peter was Bishop of .\uiioch l>cfoie goin^ t<> Konie, 24 — 2 Digitized by Google 372 PALESTINE UNDER IHE MOSLEMS. In the church of Al Kusiytn are innumerable servants who all receive their daily rations, and there is an office {dlwdn) for the expenditure and receipts of the church, in which office are some ten or more accountants. Some year and a part ago a thunderbolt struck this church, and the manner of its doing so was most extraordinary. Now at the close of the year 1362 of Alexander, which coincides with the year 44: of the Hijrah (ami 1050 .\.i>.), the winter rains had l)een heavy, and some part of the days of the month Nisan (April) were already past, when, on the night whose morrow was Saturday, the i,^th of Nisan, there came thunder and liulitniiiL; sucli as had never been known at the tiiiic, nor rcnicnibered, nor heard of in the past. 'I'hc claps of thunder were ult repeated, and so terrible as to cause the people to cry out ui fear. Then on a sudden, a thunderbolt fell and struck a mother-of-pearl screen which stood l)efore the altar in the church of Al Kusiylkn, and it split from off the face of this (screen) of the Christians, a piece like what might be struck off by an iron pickaxe with which stone is hewn. The iron cross, too, which was set on the summit of this mother-of- pearl (screen), was thrown down (by the thunderbolt), and re- mained on the place where it fell ; and a small piece also was cut oiT from the mother-of-pearl. And the thunderbolt descended through the crevice in the mother-of-pearl, and travelled down to the altar along a massive silver chain, by which is suspended the censer now the size of this crevice was of two iinger-breadths. A great piece of the chain was broken off, and part of it was melted, and what was melted of it was found dropped down on the ground below. A silver crown which hung before the table of the altar was also thrown down. Beyond the table (of the altar), and to the west of it, stood three wooden stools, square, and high, on which were usually set three large crosses ol siUcrgilt, studded with jjrecious stones. But the night l)cfore iIkv had removed two of the crosses, those on either side, takmg ihcni up * The word £;i\*en in the »cxt is At't Thttmt'yaffai, evidently not an Araliic word. In Du Cangc {Ci<>ss, Ahdia et iiijitme Uraciiaiis, Liidg. B.1I. ^ ^^clxxxviti., p. 502}, the word Qviuarov occurs, said to meaii **ThuribuIum censer), **Acerra" (a casket for incense), which is probably the object -nded. Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 373 to the church treasury, and leaving only the middle cross in its usual place. Now the two stools on either side were smashed (by the thunderbolt), and the pieces sent flying uver and beyond the altar, though here there was seen no mark of fire, as had appeared in the case of the chain, but the stool in the middle remained untouched, nor did anything happen to the cross that was set thereon. ** Upuii t:\rh of the four niaiMc rolunins which supported the silver dome cuvcriiig the tahle of liic allar wa^ < 1 )ih ut l)rocade wrapping round the roluinn. Each one of these NUifered a greater or less stroke (from the thiindt rholt) : l)ut the stroke fell in eacii rase on a plare (in the cloth) where it had been already worm- eaten and wurn to shreds ; hut there was no ap|)earance as though flaine had scorched it, nor as though it had been burnt. The tal)le (of the altar) was not touched, nor was any damage done to the altar-cloths upon it : at least, no sign of any such damage was to be seen. Some of the m u1>lc f^labs) which were in front (on the pavement belOw) the table of ihe ailar were struck as though by the blow of a pickaxe, and the mortar and lime setting thereof (was cracked). Among the rest was a targe slab of marble, which was torn from its bed and fractured, and thrown up on to the square top of the silver dome covering the table of the altar ; and here it rested, the remaining pieces of the marble being torn from their bed, and scattered far and near. In the neighbourhood of the altar was a wooden pulley, in which was a hemp-rope— quite close to the silver chain which had been broken, and part of it melted — and (to this rope was) attached a large silver tray, on which stood the bowls* for the glass lamps. This tray remained untouched — none of the lamps were overturned, nor aught else thereon ; neither did any dain.ii^L happen to a candle that stood near the two wooden stools (as already menliunul,. I he greater part of llicue wondrous occurrences were witnessed by many who were in Antukiyyah. ♦ In the text the word is FiratA, which means, liter illy, " chickens." The word, however, hai other meaningSf as *• archway," " folio of piper," i;ic., ami must, I imagine, he taken here in the sense of a bowl "01 other vessel in which the wick of the lamp was set. Digitized by Google 374 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, "Further, outside the city, on the night of Monday, the sih of the month Ah (August), of the year l)efore mentioned, there was seen in the heavens the h'keness of a window, through whi( h light shone out broad and ;^liricring, and then l)ecame extinguislicd. The people waited till morning, expecting some event therefrom. And after a time news came that in the early part of the day of that Monday, at the city of Ghunjurah,* which lies in the Cireek country, and is nine days' journey from Antakiyyah, terrible earth- quakes had taken place, following one another continuously. The greater number of the houses (of this city) had been thrown down, and a piece of ground outside the town bad been swallowed up; while a laige church and a fine fortress which had stood here had both disapi^ared, so that no trace remained of either. From the crevice in the earth extremely hot water had been thrown up^ flowing forth from many springs. It had submerged seventy farmsteads The people fleeing tlierefrom had escaped for safety to the hill-tops and high places around. The water covered the surface of the ground during seven days, spreading round about the city for the distance of two days* journ'^y. After that time it disappeared, and the place where it had been became a swamp A number of those who were witnesses of these events testified thereto, and the i eople ul Antakiyyah reported to me (Ibn liutlan) all that I ha\e lure set down. 'I'hey related, lurther, that when the inhabitants had t arried up their goods to the hill-tops, the ground rorked so by the .strength of the earlhcjuakc that the chattels came rolling down again to the level earth beluw. ''Outside the city (of Antakiyyah) is a river called Al Maklubf * This Ghunjurah is, I ounclude) the town of Gangra, the capital of Pa.phla< gonia, .irul the metropolitan see of the province, \ akul dots not mention Chunjtirnh cUewlie e. The t:;r'ii;rnpher Kn^wini (Wii^tenfcld's edition of the te.\l, vol. ii. 36<5) sava ili.vi Ijimujurah is a cily in the Cireek territory, and stands on a river called Al Maklflb (the Overturned river) — a name also given to the Ofontes, a« suted above (p. 59), because it flows from south to north, contrary to the habit of other rivers. This other river Al Makliih must, however, be the name of one of the affluents of the Haly.% which flows north into the Euxine, on which the town of Gangra is Iniill. Kaswini gives the story of the great earthquake, and inuoilation, in much the same words as those found in our text, t Here the river Ofontef. Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHlEt TOWNS, 375 (th« Overturned), because it takes its course from south to north. It is of the size of the Nahr 'ts& (in Babylonia). There are along its banks many mills, and it waters the gardens and grounds (of the city)." " Sailh \'akut : So cnd>» whai wc ha\ c transcribed Irom ihe work of 11)11 liuilan." (Vnk.. i. 382-385.) In 10S4 the ( iiadel of Aiitioc h wns betrayed by one ot its garrison, and the ^ ity (\nme into tlic hands of Sulaiman ibn Kutlimish, the Saljiik Sultan ot Iconium. I'Vjurteen year^ later, however (in lo^S t. AntKK-h was again retaken by the ChriNtians — namelv, hy the army of the First Oiisade -after a siege which la^tetl tune months, and was characterized by many extraordinary and miraculous events. Under Hohemond and his successors, Atitiocli became a Christian principality, nnd remained so for a « hundred and eighty years, until conquered hy Sultan Baibars in 1268. In 1154 Idrisi gives the following account of the dty : **Antikiyyah is a city magnificently situated, with agreeable environs. With the exception of Damascus, there is none that can equal it, either within or without It has water in plenty running through its bazaars and road-ways, and into the castles and through the streets. There is a wall going round both the town and the gardens : it is 12 miles in length, lliis wall is marvellous and impregnable. It is built of stones, and encloses both the city and the mountain that overhangs it. Within the city (wall) are mills, and orchards, and gardens, with vegetnbles and other useful growths. The ba/.aars of the i ity are thnuigc d, and have splendid wares exposed here, and all necessary goods and needful chattels. 'I*he good things of the place arc innumerable, and its blessings manifold. 1 Ivcy make here plain stuffs (not striped), that are renowned, of the sort known as Al^'Atiahi (moire), aI>o stuffs called Ad JJastawM^ and Al Js/ahdnit and the like." (Id, 23.) "In .\ntakiyyah," accordmg to Ali of Herat, "is the tomb Habib an Najjar." (Oxf MS., folio 11, verso.) Yakut, and the author of the Afardsid, add httle to details already given. YiVdt gives Ibn Hutlin's long account, already translated: He further Digitized by Google 376 ' PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, States that the city was founded by Antiyukhus (Antiochus), the second king after Alexander. He mentions a gate called Bab Mush'm (still so called), where Mushm ibn 'Abd Allah was slain when ihe Greeks tried to retake the city. (Yik,, tii. 383.) ''Between Antakiyyah and the sea is a distance of 2 leagues. Antioch has a port called As Suwaidiyyah (see Part II.), where the Frank ships He. The merchandise is carried up to Antioch on beasts of burden." (Yak., iii, 385,) Yilkftt next gives in epitome the history and dates of the various sieges, and says in conclusion : "In Antioch is the tomb of Habib an Najjar (the carpenter), which is visited from far and wide. Habib is said to have lived in Antioch, and to have come there from a far city, and preached to the people, declaring that he was an apostle." (Yak., iii. 387.) Diinashki has the lolloHing: " Antakiv\ah is the chief of the ro.iNt towns. Ii \va>, anciciuly the capital (of Syria 1 under the Greek domiuiun, and ihey named it, in honour, .\ladinai Allah (the City of (iod). .\ntioch is a \ ci y ancient city. It is enclosed by a great wall that enihrai < s tour hills, covered with woods and gardens. Habib an Najjar was a native of this place, who is mentioned in the chajner of the Kuran Vd Shi (wxvi. 26). It is here stated lhat Hal)ib cried aloud» saying, ' Oh that my people knew how gracious tiod hath been to me, and that He hath made me one of His honoured ones !' For this Habib, when he was sent as an apostle to the people of this city (of Antioch), was not credited by them, and they < ut off his head. Thereupon he took up his head in his left hand, and then placing it on the palm of his right hand, spoke the words quoted above. And for three days and nights he walked thus in their streets and market-places, reciting these same words.*' (Dim., 206.) Abu4 Fida (A. F., 257) adds little to the above accounts, from which he freely ({uotes. The city was visited by Ibn Batfttah in 1355, who, after a general description, s|)eaks of the great city wall as already a ruin, having been destroyed when Sultan Baib&ra ♦00k the city from the Christians in 1 268. He mentions the tomb Digitized by Google PROVINCIAL CAPITALS AND CHIEF TOWNS, 377 of Habib an Naj jAr, and extols the gardens and the fertility of the country round, which is watered by the river *Asi (Orontes). (I. B., i. 162.) TARSOS. "A very great and cclehratcd city," writes Ibn Haukal in 978. "It has round it a double stone wall, and the p,Mrris(in is of both horse and foot soldiers, also munitions and jirovisions are kept here, and the \vater->u])i)lv is abundant. The city is extremely well liuilt and ])oj)ulous. and provisions are cheap. I'>etween this city and the (ireek territory rises a high mountain range, an ofT- shoot of the Jabal Lukkani, which acts as a barrier between the two worlds (of Islam and ChriFtendom). There are among the population of Tarsi'is many persons of discernment and wisdom, men of prudence and eminence who understand various matters, and also possess wisdom and intelligence and watchfulness. It is stated that there are usually in this city 100,000 horsemen, and there were very near this number at the time when I (Ibn Haukal) visited the city. And the reason thereof is this : that from all the great towns within the borders of Sijist&n, Kirmin, Firs, Khurasan and the Jabal (Media), also TabaristSn, Mesopotamia and Adhar- haijan, and from the countries of Al 'Iriik, Al Htjjdz, Al Yaman, Syria and Egypt, and Al Maghrib (Morocco), there is no city but has in TaxsOls a House (Ddr) for its townsmen. Here the Ghlzfs (or Warriors of the Faith) from each particular countr\' live. For wlien they have once reached Tars(^s they settle there and remain in garrison. .Amonu' them prayer and worshij) are most diligently performed, and funds are sent tu ihcm. and tliey receive alms, rich and plentiful. For there is hardly a Sultan who does not send here some nnxiliary troops : and men of riches give their aid for anning and despatching thither the volunteers who have devoted themselves to this service. In every country where I have been, the rich and powerful do set apart sums for this purpose, as a tax on their farms, and fields, and crops, or from their shops in the market-places. But the warriors in Tarsus come thither only to perish, and it is as though none arrived ; they are lost in the battles, and it is almost as if none came. It is even as Allah hath said in the Kur4n (xix., 98) : * Canst thou search out one Digitized by Google 378 PALESTiNB UNDER THE MOSLEMS, of them? or canst ihou hear a whisper from ihera?' ' (Is., 04; I. H.. 122, copied in part by A. 249.) '* Tarsus, ■ says Biladhuri, '* was rebuilt by the Khahfs Al Mahdi and Ar Rashid, by whom it was refoitified and garrisoned." (Bil., 169, and A. F., 113.) ''The Khahf Al MamCin,'' says Mas'udi, ''was buried at Tarsiks, on the left-hand side of the Mosque. Tarsus was originally gar- rt.soned by 8,000 men. The Gate of the Holy War (Bab al Jihad) is that from which the expeditions against the Infidels set out.'* (Mas., vii. 2 ; viii. 72.) TarsOs," reports Idrisi, is a great dty with double stone walls. It has much merchandise, and the population is very numerous. The lands here are fertile in the extreme. Between it and the (jreek territory are the lAikkim Mountains, which rise as a dividing wall between the two worlds (of Islam and Christen- dom)." (Id., 25.) ** Tarsfis," writes YakDt, " is a city of the Syrian Thughilr (or Frontier I'ortress). It lies 6 leagues from Adhanah. The city is divided by the river Al I'.jradan (Cydnus). The tomb of Al Maniun is 10 be scm lure. Between the two cities of I nrsus and Adana are the Fnnduk. (hosiclryj ol Bugha and the Fanduk al Jadid (the New ilusielry). Tarsus has double walls and a liroad ditch, also six gates. I'his Frontier City of the Muslims remained in their hands till the year 354 (965), when Nikfur (Nicephorus), King of the Greeks, having conquered the ThughOr (J'rontier Fortresses) nnd Al Massissah, laid siege to Tarsfis, and took it by capitulation. Then all the Muslims who would, Were allowed to leave the city, taking with them their goods. 'I'hose who remained had to pay the capitation-tax. The Jami', and other Mosques, were destroyed. NikfOr burnt all the Kurdns; further, he took all the arms away from the arsenals. Tarsds and all the country round has remained in the hands of the Infidels to this day (1225) " (Vak., lii. 526 ; Mar., ii. 200.) Dimashki (Dim., 214) and Abu-1 Fidi (A. F., 249) add nothing to the alx>ve. Digitized by Google PART II. AtrUABETlCAL LIST OF PLACES IS PALESTINE AND SYRIA, Thk place-names m Syria and Palestine lorm an interesting record, hcariiii; the impress of the various nations and needs that, during su( ( t ^sivf i j)ochs, have held tloniinion ui the Holy I^nd. The Camianite and the Hebrew, the ( ircck. the Roman and the By/-antine, the Aral) and the Turk, all have in turn imposed their names on the towns ihey have founded or rebuilt as a glance over the following pages will show. But in spite of foreign in- vasion and settlement, the bulk of the population of Syria always has been, and is still, Semitic in race, and hence it is natural to find that the great majority of the place-names are Semitic (Hebrew, Aramaic, or Arabic) in etymology. After the Arab conquest in the seventh century, the majority of the Greek names imposed by the Byzantines (and by their predeces- sors^ the Romans and the Successors of Alexander) fell into disuse, their places being once again taken by the older Semitic names, which probably had never fallen into desuetude among the rural, and therefore purely Semitic, population of the countr)*. This reversion from the Oreek name to the name used in the Old Testament, is, however, a rule to which there arc some excep- tions. lor nolliing in more curious than the apparently arbitrary maniK T in wIik h. while some of the ancient names are at the present time tully retained in u>c, others have ionij»lciely fallen intt» oliliviun. Of pla«c> which the (ireeks rt-named, but of whu h the iireek name was, at the Arab l orKjUc-t. replnced hy the t)lder Semitic form, are ^uc h cities as : Akkah ^Si. Jean d Acre), railed in Judges Accho, which the (Ireeks named Ptolemais ; Baisan, the Biblical Belhshean, which in (ireek was called Scythopolis: 'Amman, the Rabliath Ammon of King Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, David's wars, which Ptolemy II. reljuilt and named Philadelphia; Bait Jibril, the Betogabra of Josephus, called in Greek Eleuthero- polis ; and many others. An exception to the forgoing, as being a place which at the present day bears a Greek name (slightly corrupted in the Arabic pronunciation), and of which the ancient Hebrew name is ta<lay utterly unknown, is the Biblical Shechem. ever since the Arab conquest known as Nsibulus, from Neapolis, the New Town, built by the Emperor Titus. The purely Greek place-names that have survived (in an Arabic form) down to the present day ma) in general, for their etymology, be referred to two classes. l*o the first class belong the names of towns in Greece which the Macedonians, in memory of their former homes, gave to their new settlements : the second class comprise the names of such towns as the successors of Ak xaiidcr founded or rel)Uilt, and named after Alexander, or sume member of the reigning family of the Seleucidaj. To the first of these categories belong Ar Rnstan. Aicthusa : Kiirus, Cyrrhus: Fahl, Pella ; to the second the many Alexandrias under the Arabici/cd form of Al Iskandariyyah and Al Iskandarunah : and such cities as Antakiyyah, Antioch ; Al Ladhikiyyah, Laodicea ; Afamiyyahor l^amiyya, Apamea ; and some others. Bdniyas, Paneas (named from a temple to the god Pan) ; Tarabulus, Tripolis ; and Nabulus, Neapolis, come under neither of the above categories, but the etymolog)- is not far to seek. Among the names of Roman origin are such as Al Lajjun, Legio; I'abariyyah, Tiberias ; and the many Kaisariyyahs. Caesarea Palasstina, and others. Of Arab names that almost letter for letter reproduce the Hebrew word, only a few need here be cited, for examples meet the eye on every hand. Ba'albakk, 'Athlith, and other such words of purely Semitic etymology, must date, without doubt, from the very earliest ages, though the Hebrew or Aramaic form may not happen to be found in the Books of the Old Testament. Numberless other examples of the Hebrew name in an Arabic form occur as etymological examples, proving the extraordinary vitality of the ancient pronunciation even in ininoi details. Such Digitized by Google AL *ABADIYYAH,-ABJL AS SVK. are Maab, Moab': Ariha, Jcrit lio :* Vafah, Joppa ; Kadas, Kadcsh ; AzdOd, Ashdod ; 'Alik, Apheca ; Ghaifzah, Gaza ; and 'Askalan, Ascalon. This last (Ascalon) is curious as an exception to the rule that the guttural aspirate, peculiar to the Semitic languages, and known as the letter V////, when it occurs in the Hebrew, is represented by a corresponding 'Ain (or (Ihain) of the Arabic, e.g., Arabic 'Ashtara, Hebrew 'Ashtaroth. But Ascalon in Hebrew is spelt with an initial Aleph (Ashkelon), while in Arabic the name com- mences with an ^Ain ('Askalan).t This interchange of Aieph and *Ain is not, however, unknown in Arab words, an example occurring in the name B^rin, which is also pronounced Ba'rln (with an *Ain) ; further, that ^Ain some- times interchanges with the hard, or the soft, H, is seen in such examples as Zurrah, for Zura',; and in the name of one of the gates of the Sanctuary at Makkah, which YdkQt notes is found written and pronounced either Bab a1 Haz6rah, or At 'AzArah (with initial Ha^ or 'Ain). Ai 'AiJAnivVAii. — " A village (of the district) of Al Marj, near Damascus." (Vak., iii. 599; Mar., ii. 2v ) Arawa.- *''rhc name of a place, or of a mountain in Svria. Mentioned in the poems of An Nabighah." (Vak., i. loi ; Mar., L 17.) *AbbCd. — A mountain in Syria." (Vak., iti. 608 ; Mar., ii. 234.) * Abil. — "A village of Hims, lying near the city, to the south, ^nd about 3 miles distant." (ViUc., i. 57 ; Mar., i. 4.) Abil al Kamh (Abil or the Whkat).— "A village belong- ing to Baniyis. It lies between Damascus and the sea.'' (YSk., i. 56 ; Mar , i 4.) This is said to be the Biblical Abel Beth Maachah of 2 Sam, xx, 14. Abil as SOk (Abil of the Market).*^** A large village of the Ghautah (District round Damascus), in the district of the Widt (Sfik Barada)." (YAk , i. 57 ; Mar., i. 4.) The ancient Abila, of the Abilene District, mentioned in St. Luke iii. t. • Sec also p. 397. t Sec Iiulex, s. v. 'Askaldu, t See Index, s. v. Ba'rin and Zurnh. Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. A/ /ait (Aiui. or thk Ouvks), — "In the Jordan Pro- vince, in the eastern part of Syria. The Prophet despatched an expedition thither under I'sfimah. ' (Vak., i. 56; Man, I. 4.) The present ruin of Abil, the Abila of the nccapoHs, lying to the south of the Vamiuk River, the remains of which have recently been mapped and described by G. Schumacher, for the P. £. F. A'bilIn. — Visited by NasiM-Khusrau in 1047. '* From Dikm(hi we passed south to another village^ called A'btlin, where there is the tomb of HQd- -peace be upon him ! — ^which I visited. Within the enclosure here is a mul1)erry tree ; and there is likewise the tomb of the prophet 'Uzair — peace be upon him I- -which I also visited." (N. Kh., 15.) Gu€rin considers A'bilin to represent the ancient Zabulon, destroyed by Cestius. The Muslim prophet HDd is the Hiblicnl Kbcr. He was sent to coineri the ancient 'Aditcs, who, rclUbiiig to hdcn to hiiii, were destroyed by a burn- ing wind. fKurffp vii. 67,.) 'l /.air is Ezra, or Esdras. (Kuran ix. 30: ISloreovrr. the jew> say, ' (j/air is the Son of Crod.' ") Acc ording to Miisliui tradition, Kzra was raised to life alter he had been a hundred years dead, and dictated to the Scribes, from memory, the whole Jewi.sh l^w, which had been lost during the captivity. Al AiiRASHiVYAH.— ** a Village of Damascus." (Mar., i. la; and in Yak., v. ti.) Abtar.— " A place in Syria." (Yak., i. 87 ; Mar., i. 11.) 'AbOd. — *' A small town in the Filastfn Province, near Jeru- salem. The name is Hebrew, and is become Arabicized." (Yik., iii. 583 ; Mar., il 225.) AdAmI, or UdamI. — "A district in Syria belonging to the Kudd'ah tribe.*' (Yak., i. 167 ; Mar., i. 36.) Adhanah (Adana). — "This city was rebuilt in a.h. 141 (758), and garrisoned by troops from Khurasan (in Persia). HnrOn ar Rashid built the castle (Al Kasr) at the Bridge of Adhanah, over the Saihaii (t!ir ancient Sarus). in the year 1O5 (782)." (Bil., 168; copied by \ ak., i. 179, and Dim., 214.) "The city," says Istakhri, "much resembles the one half of Al Massissah (Mopsiiestia). It stands on the river Saihan, and to the west of that stream. It is a pleasant city, with fertile lands^ Digitized by Google ADHANAH,-^DHRA*AH, OR ADHRFAH, 383 on the road to i arsiis ; well fortified and populous." (Is., 63 ; 1. H., 122 ; copied by A. F., 24() ) "There are here bazaars, and craftsmen, ' writes Idris!, "with much coming and going. The Saihan River, on which the city stands, is smaller than the Jaihan (Pynimus) There is across it a bridge most wonderfully built, and extremely long. This river flows down out of the (>reek country." (Td., 24.) "The bridge is of stone, and leads from the town to the fortress, which is on the side towards Al Massissah, and is like a suburb. The bridge is an arch of a single span. Adhanah has eight gates, with walls, and a ditch.'' (Y4k., i. 179.) "llie bridge is 170 and odd ells in length." (I)im«, ^14.) Adhanah to AntSkiyyah (I.H., Id.) 3 miles ; to Al Massissah (Is., I.H., Id.) I day, or 4 leagues (Vilk.), or 12 miles (A. F.) ; to TarsAs (Is., I.H., Id), i day, or 18 miles (A. F.). 'Adhra. — A well-known village," says Y&k(kt, of the Ghautah (District round) Damascus ; or the Iklim KhauKin. Marj 'Adhra (the Meadow of *Adra) is called from it, and thereto you descend coming from the Ragle's (lorge (Thaniy)at al 'L'kab) whence v()ii perceive the village on your left. There is a minaret here. In the Mosciiie of the village is a palm-tree." (Yik., iii. 625 : Mnr.. ii. 24;?.) Ar)HR.\"An. ok AiMiKi AH.— "The capital of the Frovitv o of Al Hathanivya!i. (\'b., 113.) This town is idcntitied with the Kdrei of Xumbers xxi. 33. the capital of Bashan. Adhri ah,'' says Mukaddasi, *' is a city lying close to the desert To it belongs the District of Jabal Jarash (the hill-countrv of Gerasa), which lies opposite f u ro-s the Jordan) to the Jabal 'Amilab. This country is full of villages, and Tiberias owes its prosperity to the neighbourhood of the two districts (of Jabal Jarash and Jabal 'Amilah)." (Muk , 162.) In the thirteenth century, according to Yakiit (Y4k., i. 176), the city was celebrated for the many learned men who were natives of the place. (Also Mar., i. 39 ; and A. F., 253.) Adhra'ih to Damascus (Is., I. H., Id., Y^.), 4 days, or 2 days (according to Muk.); to Tabariyyah (Muk.), i march; to A2 Zartki (Muk.), i march ; to 'Amman (A. F.). 54 miles ; to As .Sanamain (A. F.), 18 miles. Digitized by Google 384 PALESiiSE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Adhruh. — "The capital of the Province of Ash Sbar&h (Edom)." (Yb., 114.) "Adhruh," says Mukaddasi, ** is a frontier town, between the Hijjaz and Syria. They preser\c licro the Truphet's mantle, and also a treaty given by him, and written on skin." (Muk.. 178.) Yakut couples Adhruh with Al Jarha, a town lying a mile distant, buih of which were conquered during the Prophet's life- time in A.H. 9. Adhruh capitulated for 100 Dinars of tribute. (Yak., i. 174 ; Mar., i 39.) 'Adlun, or 'Adhnin "A strong tort on the sea, lying between Tyre and Saraland, 20 miles from the latter." (Id., iz.) Kudamah gives the more ancient spelling, '.\dnun. " 'Adhnftn," says YdkCtt, " is a town Ijelonging to Saida (Sidon), on the Damascus coast."- (Yak., iii. 626 ; Mar., ii. 243.) 'I'he name is i^robably a corruption of Ad Nonum—^^ dX the ninth mile." The place is identified with the Omithopolis of Stiabo. Afamiyyah, or FA.\iiyvah (Epiphania). — " An ancient (ireek city/^ says Ya'kdbl, in 891, **now in ruins. It is situated on ahrgelake'' (Yb., iii.) For the lake, see above (p. 70). In Y&kOt's days (thirteenth century) the town was apparently fortified. The district of the same name formed part of the Hims Province. The same authority states that the city was founded by Seleucus, who also built Udhikiyyah (Laodicea), SalAkiyyah (Seleuria), and Halah (Aleppo), six years after the death of Alexander the Great. (\ ak., i. j22 : Mar., i. 97.) ** I-aniiyyah, or .Alauiiyyah," Yakut continues, "is a large citA' in the disiri( t (Kurah) of the same name. It lies on the coa:»l- side ol the Hims I'rovince. Afamiyyah was taken by capitulation by Abu 'Ubaidah in the year 17 \.\\. (638) on the stif)ulated pay- ment of poll tax { Jnziyah) and land-tax {K/iarajy (Yak., iii. 846; Mar., ii. 333.) In Abu-1 Fidas time (fourteenth century), Famiyyah formed nart of the Shaizar District. " It is also called Afamiyyah, and a very ancient town, which has given its name to the district. i Digitized by Google AFIK, OR FtK.—AL AHASS AND SHUBAITH, The ancient city stands on a height There is here a lake of sweet water, through which flows the Nahr al MakU^b (the Orontes)." (A. F., 26$,) Af! K, OR Ftic — A town, near which is the celebrated Pass ('Akabahy (Yb., 115.) The fiibUcal Aphek (i Kings xx. 26). The *Akabah^ Pass, or Ascent, lies on the high-road from Damascus to Jerusalem, and leads down from the plateau of the Haurdn to the Jordan Valley. " Afik/' snvs YakOt, " is a village of the iiaunin. on ihc r(;.id <i()wn to the viii.iur (of the Jordan), It stands at the entrant l- of the celebrated Pass of Afik. V\\'\> I'aNS is about 2 miles lung. 'I'he common people pronoutK c tlu- nauK- 1 ik. 'I'he town over- looks Tabariyyah and the lake, and many times liave I been there. ' {\ixk., \. 332 ; iii. 932 ; Mar , i. 82 : li. 373.) 'Akabah Fik to Jasim (Muk.), i march, or (I. Kh.) 24 nnUs; ' to Naw4 (Muk.), i march ; to Tabariyyah (Is., I.H., Muk.), 1 march, or (Id.) part of a day, or (I. Kh.) 6 miles. AfiJla. — '*A village in Syria. A celebrated commentator of Mutanabbi's poems was a native of this place. He died 441 a.h.' (Yilk., i. 333 ; Mar., t. 82.) 'Afk.4. — " A fortress in the Filasttn Province, near Jerusalem.** (Y&k., iii. 688 ; Mar., ti. 264.) \Afrabala.— A place in the Jordan Ghaur (or low-bnd), near 6ais4n and Tabariyyah." (Vak., iiL 688 ; Mar., ii. 264.) Al Ah ass (the bald) and Shubaitk. — " The name of a large district, possessing many villages and fields, and lying both north and south of Halab (Ale[>po). Its chief town is Khunasirah, where the Klunif 'Omar ibn '.\bd al "A/iz dwelt. Shubaiih is a black nu)unt4iin in this district On its summit are four ruined villa^'cs, belonging to the people of Halab. in their neighbour- hood are mills." (Vak., i. 151 ; Mar., i. 31.) " Al Ahass," says Abu-1 Fida, "is a moimtain-lract, where there are many villages. It lies east of Halab, between it and Khunasirah, which last lies beyond to the east nj^ain. Shubaith is a smaller mountain than Al Ahass, and lies to the east of it. Between the two runs a Wadi, a horse-gallop across, in which lies KhnnlUirah." (A. F., 233.) 35 Digitized by Google 3»6 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Ai. Ank \i (THL >ANi)-HiLLs).— " A mounUlin in Syria.'' (Vak^ i. 154; Mar., i. 31.) 'AijA.— " A village in the Hauran, near Jisim." (Yak., iii. 750; Mar., ii. 291.) 'AiN (a spKiNt; of water). — "A village under Jabal al Lukkam, iH-ar Mar'ash. From it is called the Darb (or Road of) a] 'Ain, leading up to Hdrdniyyah. It is a pleasant hamlet, and counted among the fortresses of Al Masslssah/' (Ydk., Hi. 756 ; Mar., 293.) *AiN JalOt (Goliath's Spring).— "A small and pleasant town, lying l^tween NSbulus and Baisin, in the Filasttn Province. The place was taken by the Rdmt (Crusaders), and retaken by Satadin in 579 (1183). ' (Ydk., iii. 760 ; Mar., ii. 295.) 'AiN Al. Jarr.— "This place lies between Ba'albakk and Damascus, in the Bika'ah (or Plain of Coelo-S>Tia). It is a well- known spot; and tradition relates that X^ah al this place entered the ark." (Yak., iii. 760 : Mar., ii. 295.) ** There are here, writes Abu-I Kida, "ruin> ol enormous <r<ine Iniildings. It lies a long mile south of l^a'alhakk. At Ain al Jarr begins the great river that flows through the Bika'ah (of Cielo Sn ria), called the Litany." (.\. 1* ., 230.) 'Atti al Jarr is at the present day called Anjar. Near it lie the ruins of the ancient Chalcis ad Helum. Ain al Jarr to Al Karftn (Muk.), i march; to Ba'albakk (Muk.), I march. Wis Sai.Im, ok Win Sailam.— " A place 3 miles from Halab (Aleppo)." (Yak., iii. 762 ; Mar., ii, 296.) 'Ain as SallCr.— " ^d/Ztfr," writes Yakiit, "is the fish also called Aljirriy in the Syrian dialect. The place is near AntSkiy- yah (Antioch), and the Sallfir is the laigest of the fish found in the spring, which is so called from the number of these fish found there. 'Ain as SallOr, and the lake near it, belonged to Maslamah, the son of the Khalif 'Abd al Malik. The lake is also called Buhairah Yaghrft.** (YAk., iii. 762 ; Mar , ii. 296.) , 'AiN T.\B. — "A fortified castle," says ^'akOt, "lying between Ant^kiyyah ai)d Halab, witli villages round it, among which is Duluk. It was formerly itself called Duluk, which is now one of Digitized by Google *AJN TAB,~~*A!N ZARBAH. its dependencies. 'Ain Tdb belongs to Halah." (Y&k., iii. 759 ; Mar., ii. 294.) "'Ain TSib" Dimashki writes in the early part of the fourteenth centttiy, ^* lies north-east of Halab. It is a place with a strong castle. The people are Ttirkomans. There is a small river here, and gardens." (Dim., 205.) 'Ain Tkbt in Kinnasrin/' according to Abu-1 Fidd, is a very beautiful town, with a castle that is built on the solid rock. It has water in plenty, and gardens, and is the capital of its district. There are fine markets here, nuu h frccjuented by merchants and travellers. It Hcs three marches north of Halab. DulCik lies near 'Ain Tab, and is now in ruins. The place is mentioned in the wars of Saladin and N\\t ad Din. Wm Tab is three marches south of Kala'at ar Rum, and the same distance south-east of Bahasnfi." (A. I'., 269.) 'Am 1'har.m.\. — "A village in the Ghautah (district) of Damascus." (Vak., iti. 759 ; Mar., ii. 294.) The latter writes the name 'Ain TOma. 'AiNLN. — 'M village near (and south of) Jerusalem." (Y4k., iii. 764 ; Mar., ii. 298.) Also called Bait 'Ainun. (See below.) The 'AinOni raisins^ which come from here, are celebrated, according to Mukaddasi. (Muk., 180.) 'AinOn or 'Ain Una. — **Thb is a village south of the Bathaniyyah Province, and lying on the shore of the Red Sea, between Madyan and As Sali. The pilgrim road from Egypt to Makkah losses through it." (Yak., iii. 758, 765 ) The ancient 05k>;, the harbour of Midian mentioned by Ptolemy. *AiN /\ri;ah (Ana/akiu 01 ihk Crus.\I)K.s). — Biladhuii states that the town was built by .\r Kashid, being also rcfuriified and garrisoned, in the year 180 (796), by troops from Khura.san. (HiL, 171 ; copied by I. F., 113 : and in Yak., iii. 761,) "The town," says Istakhri, "lies in a country very like the Ghaur (or Jordan lowland). There are pahu trees and fruits of all kinds, and great fertility ; also arable fields and pasture lands. 25—3 Digitized by CoQgle 388 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. The cit>' has fine walls, and its prosperity is great." (Is., 63 ; I. H., 121 ; copied by Id*, 24. and A. F., 234.) Y&kiit in the thirteenth century qieaks of it as a town of the ThughAr (or Frontier Fortresses), belonging to Al Massfssah. "It was rebuilt by Abu Sulaim&n at Turki al Khidim, about the year 190 (804), when he was governor of the Thughflr, under the Khalif Ar Rashtd. After that the Rftmts (Crusaders) took the place and laid it in ruins. Satf ad Daulah ibn Hamd&n spent three million Dtihams on rebuilding it, but the ROmis retook it (a.d. 962) in his day, and it is still in their hands. It is now peopled by Armenians." (Yak., iii. 761 ; Mar., ii. 295 ) "*Ain Zarljah." says .\l)ii 1 Fida, "is a town at ihc toot of a hill which is ( rowncd by a castle. The town is populous, and is watered by a river. It lies between Sis and Tall Hanulnn, and to the north of the Jaih^n (river Pyramus), which llow^ between it and Tall Ilanidun. 'A in /arl)ah lies south, and rather west of Sis, and at a short day s march from it. The people have cor- nipted the name, and call it Nliwarza. Muhallabi says that between Sis and '.Mn Zarhah is 24 miles, which is the exact distance between Sis and Xa war/a, proving that 'Ain Zarbah is identical with Nawarza. ^ (A. F., 251.) ■ *Ain 2^rbah to Massissah (Is., L H., Id.), 1 march; to Antllkiyyah (Id.), 2 marches. 'AiTHAH. — " A district of Syria." (Yik., iii. 750 ; Mar., ii. 291 .) *AjAB. — "A place in Syria, mentioned by the poets.*' (Vik., iii. 617 ; Mar., it 238.) A JAM. — ** A place in Syria near Al Far^dis, in the neighbour- hood of Halab." (Yak., t. 135 ; Mar., i. 27.) *AjLt)N. — " In the Iklim (or district of) Jarash," says Dimashki, *' is the luwn of \\jlun, where there is a very strong fortress. In the town is running water; fruits of all kinds and provisions are here in }>lenty. The fortress is very high placed, and you can see it from four days' march awa}'." (Pirn., 200.) The fortress is at the present day called Kala'at nr Ruhad- - the Castle of the Suburb— it is a conspicuous landmark in all the south Jordan dfstrict. 'AjlOn," writes Abu-1 Fidi in the fourteenth century, " is the Digitized by Google *AJLUN,^*AKIR, 389 name of the fortress, and its suburb (that is the town of 'Ajl(in), is called Al B4'0thah, which is distant from it about a hofse- gallop. It lies to the east of the Ghaur (or Jordan Valley), opposite Baisftn. The fortress of 'AjUin is a celebrated .and very strong place. It can be seen from Baisan, The town has gardens and running water. It lies east of BaisAn, and has been recently rebuilt by Izz ad Dtn Usimah, one of Saladin s Amirs." (A. F., 245.) The place was visited by Ibn BatCitah in 1355, who speaks of it as ''A fine town with good markets, and a strong castle. A stream runs through the town, and the waters are sweet and good.'.' (I. H., i. 129.) AiNADAfN. — "The site of the tanious battle-field of the year 13 A. n. (634). It took ])lacc near Ar Ranilah. in Filastin, and in the Kurah (or district oi) Bait Jabrin." (Vak , \. 136; Mar., i. 27.) The actual site of this famous battle between the Greeks and the first Muslim conquerors has never been idenlified. 'Akabai a\ Nisa (Thk Woman s Pass). ~" Xear baghras on the road to Al Masslssah, so called from an accident that happened here to one of the wives of Maslamah the son of the Khalif 'Abd nl Malik, during his exfiedition against 'AmClriyyah (Amonum). The woman fell over the precipice." (Vak., iii. 692.) '.VKABAT AR RumAn, OR AR RumadI. — "A Pass between Ba'albakk and Damascus." (Yb., 112.) 'Akabat as StR. — A Pass in the district near Al Hadath, in the ThughQr (or Frontier Fortresses). It is a narrow and long Pass.*' (Ydk., iii. 692 ; Mar., ii., 265.) The latter spells the name Ash Shtr. Al Akhrajivyah.— " A place in Syria, mentioned by the poet Jartr.^ (Vaik., i. 161 ; Mar., i. 34.) Al AkhowAnah. — ** A place in the Jordan Province, on th(B shore of the Lake of Tiberias." (Ydk., i. 334 : Mar., i. 83.) •Akir (1:kron).— " A large village," says Mukaddasi, "possess- ing a fine Mosque. Its inhabitants are much given to good works. The bread here is mA to l)e suri)a^sed lor quality. The village lies on the road (from Ar Ramlah) to Makkah." (M.uk., Digitized by Google 390 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. 176.) YSkftt calls it Al *Akir, adding that it belongs to Ar Kamlah. (Y&k., iii. 697 ; Man, ii. 267.) HiSN 'AkkAr. — An im{)regnable fortress, built since the days of Islam. There is a channel of water coming right into the castle, brought down from the hills above, and sufficient both for domestic purix).scs and for drinking." (Dim., 208.) The district of Jabal Wkkar lies iinincdiaicl) nurth ot 'I'rijioli. Ai AkiIm.- "A ili>trict in the neighbourhood of Damascus.'' (\ ak., i. ; Mar., i. AkmInAs. — "A large village of the Halab Province. It lies in the Jabal As Suininak, Its inhabitants are Ismailians." (Yak., i. 339 ; Mnr., i. 83.) 'Akraba.- "The name of a town in the Jaulan Province of Damascus. The (ancient) (>hassanide kings dwelt hereof old." {\kk., iii. 695; Mar., ii. 267.) HisN AL Akrad (The Fort of thk Kurds ; Crac des Chkva- LiERs).— Noticed by the traveller Ibn Jubair (11S5). " It lies in the Lebanon Mountains, and is now in the hands of the Franks." (I- J » 257 ) ** Hisn al Akr&d," says Dimashki, " is an impregnable fortress set on the dividing line between (the province of) Damascus and the coast (district). From it one can see Damascus, KUri, An Nabk, and Ba'albakk ; and down even to the sea-coast." (Dim., 208.) Abu-1 Fida, some years later, speaks of it as ** A strong fortress on the mountains opposite, and west of Hims, whicli arc |)art of tlic (Lebanon called) Jabal Jalil. It lies between Hims and Tarabulus, a march from either. The forlros hai> suburbs. Before Tarabulus was taken by the Mu?vbnis (in 1110), this was the seat of their CjovernmenL " (A. V., 259. ) Hisn al .^krad took its name from the fact that for many years its garrison was composed of Kurdish troops. It is also known as Kala'at al Hisn — the Castle of the Fortress— and in Crusading jl^i*^times was called Crac dcs Chevaliers. Ibn Batiltah visited the jfr ^^ce in 1355. He speaks of it as **A small town, with many "^s and streams^ standing on the summit of a hill.'' (I. B., 40.) VK.SAL. — '*A village of the Jordan Province, lying 5 leagues Digitized by Google AKSAL.— AMMAN. 39X from Tiberias towards Ar Ramlah. The river Abu Futrus is in its neighbourhood." (Y&k., i. 343.) According to the Marlsid (Mar., t, 85) the name is spelt Aks&k. Al ArwAkh. — "A district of Baniyas in the Damascus Province." (YSk., i. 343 ; Mar., i. 86.) Ai. \T,. — *' A high mountain. It lies in the Uathaniyyah Pruvin(c. hctwccn tiic Cihaur (of the Jordan) and Jabal ash Sharah. ■ (\ ak., iii. 712.) The Marasid (Mar., ii. 274) says it is situated above As Sal', and between Al 'Ukad and the J.ihal ash Sharah, 1 his Al ;tl may possibly be the Biblical Elealeh (Num. xxxii. 3), at the place now allied K.hirl)at al '.\1, .south of 'Amman. 'Alikin. " A village outside Damascus " (Mar., ii. 27H.) Al. 'Am ah. — ** A large Kurah (or district) of Ma'arrah an Nu'man, lying between Halab and Hamah, towards the desert ; it contains many villages." (Vak., iii. 710; Mar., ii. 273.) Al *Allatan.— "A KOrah (or district) of Hims in Syria." (Yik., iii. 709 ; Mar , ii. 373.) AlCs. — **AUu Sa'ad says AlQs is a town on the coast near TarsOs ; but this is probably an error on his part." ( Vdk., i. 353 ; Mar., i. 88.) Am ARB. — ''A place in the Syrian Desert, on the road to the Hijjikz. It lies north of the road to Busaitah." (Y^k., i. 361 ; Mar., i. 91.) Al. 'Amk, or Al 'Umk (The Depression). — **A KOrah (or district) of Halab, near Dabik. It belonged originally to Antdkiy- yah, and most of the provisions of Anliuch come from thence." (Vak.. iii. 727 ; Mar., ii. 280.) In Crusading times this was known as the Plain of .\ntioch. Ibn Batutah, who crossed the disiru l in 1355, di sc ribes it as 'Myini: equidistant from Antioch, Ti/in, and luiLihras. '1 he Turkomans dwell here with the Franks. " (I. B., 1. i^S-) ' name sometimes occurs in the plural form A/ A'mdk, (Vak., t. 316 ; Mar., i. 77.) 'Amman (Rabath A.mmo.n, Philadelphia). '' The capital of the Balk4 Province (Penea). ' (Yb., 113.) Mukaddasi, in 985, writes : Amman, lying on the border of the desert, has round it many villages and cornfields. The Balka District, of which it Digitized by Google 39* PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, is the capital, is rich in grain and flocks ; it also has many streams, the waters of which work the mills. In the city near the market- place stands a fine mosque, the court of which is omamenced with mosaic. We have heard said that it resembles that of Makkah. The Castle of Goliath is on the hill overhanging the city, and therein is the Tomb of Uriah,* over which is built a mosque. Here, likewise, is the Circus of Solomon. Living here is cheap, and fruit is plentiful On the other hand, the people ol the place are illiterate, and the roads thither wretched. But the city is even as a harbour of the desert, and a place of refuge for the Hadawin Arabs." (Muk., 175 ; quoted also by \'ak., iii. 760.) The Tomb of t'riah nnd the ( '.i.Nlle of doliaih doiihiless, the small mos(jUt within the < undcl. overhanging the town on the north. The ('irru> of Solomon the anricnt theatre, capable, it is said, of having seated six tiuuis.uul spci talors. Yakflt (\ ak., iii. 719 ; Mar., li. 278) alludes to 'Amman as the city of DakiyanOs (Decius), the Emi)eror under whose reign the Seven Sleepers entered the Cave of Ar Raklm (see p. 274). Vakdt further adds the following legendary version of the Biblical account of I-ot's escape from Sodom and Gomorrha : "It is mentioned by a certain learned man of the Jews, that he read in one of the books of God, that when Lot fied vrith his family from SadQm and its people, his wife turned back, and was changed into a pillar of salt. But he went on to Zugharf (Zoar), and none were saved but he and his brother and his two daughters. Now, the two daughters imagined to themselves that Allah had destroyed all the world, and they took counsel how the seed of their father and their uncle should continue. And they made iheni hotii drunk with wine, and they each did lie with one of thtni, and bolii did < unecive. And the two men knew nothing of what had taken place. Then one bare a >on, and calic^d his name Amman— that is to say, //c 7i>/io t's of f/ic Liuic (Anifn) : and the other also bare a son. and ( ailed him Maab—that is, J/<* li'hQ i$ of the Father (Ad). When the two buys had grown to * The history of Uriah, according to the Muslim tradition, is given io G. Weir.s BiMisc/id I.o^^endm dtr Atusdmanner, p. 210. t In the teJkt by mistaktr written Zujar, Digitized by Google *A MM AN, — AM WAS, 393 man's estate^ each founded a city in Syria, and called it after hla own name. And these two cities {'Amm&n and Ma&b) are near to one another in the Syrian waste." Abu-l Fida, in 1321, writes of 'Amman as follows : " It is a very ancient town, and was ruined hctorc the days of Islam. It is nuiuioned in the history of tlio Israelites. There are great ruin> here, and the river Az Zarka (Jahbok) flows through them, win* h (later on) crosses the Pilgrim Road from DamascuN (to Makkah). 'I'hc town is to the west of the Zarka, and lies about a march to the north of the Hirkat Ziza. At 'Amman are many great Butm (Terebinth) and other trees. All around it are fields, and the soil is ver>' fertile. According to tradition, it was Lot who founded Wmman." {A, 247.) 'Amman to the river Jordan (Muk.), i march; to Bait ar Ram (Muk.), I march ; to Ma4b (Muk.), i march : to Az Zarikd (Muk.), I march; to Jerusalem (Id.)i 2 days. 'AmmCriyyah.* — "A small town on the bank of the 'Asi (Orontes), between Ai^mi>7ah and Shaizar. There are remains and ruins here, and also mills." (YILk., iii. 731 ; Mar., ii. 282.) 'AmtA. — ^**A town in the Joidair Province, and of the Ghaur (or lowland). There is here the tomb of (the conqueror of Syria) Abu 'Ubaidah ihn al jarrah, though others say it is at Tabariyyah. From Aniinaii tcj " Ami which is in the middle of tlif (ihaur, is 12 Icai^aies, and the same thence on tu 'rabaii}\ah. They make here e\< client arrowb. (Yak., iii. 722 : Max., ii. 278.) 'Aml>. — '*A small town near Bait Lahin ( P.cthlehem), belong- ing to Jenisnlem." (Yak., iii. 594 : Mar., li. 2 2«S.) * Am WAS (Emmaus Nicopous). — "A town in Palestine. ' (Yb., 116.) Mukaddasi says of 'Amw^: **It is said that this place was in ancient days the capital of the province, but that the population removed therefrom to be nearer to the sea, and more in the plain, on account of the wells ; for the village lies on the skirt of the hill-country." (Muk., 176.) YAkOt speaks of the city as situated in the K.(^rah (province) of Filasttn, near Jenistilem. 'AmwHs was the capital of Filasttn * Spelt the same as 'AmmOriyyah, or 'Amuriyynh, the Arabic form of Amoriom in Phrygia. • Digitized by Google 194 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. anciently, but the capital was removed thence to (Ar Ramlah) nearer the sea^coast, because of the lack of wells ; for 'Amwas is on the mountain-side. It lies 6 miles from Ar Ramlah, on the road to Jerusalem. The plague of 'Amwas took its origin here in 'Omar's time, in the year i8 ; and they say twenty-^five thousand died of it." (YSk., iii. 729; Mar.» ii. 281.) *AnAi>hAn. — According to YlkAt, "a village near Kinnasrtn» in the Kurali (distriri) of Uriik, ut the Awasim Province." Ac- cording to .mother account (Marasid), it hcs lo the north-east of Halab. (\ak., iii. 733 ; v. 35 : Mar, ii. 2SJ5.) HlSN A\.\F AI. H a I AK (iokJ OK I MK S TOxN E NOSE).— A fortross on the sea. 1 hence to Hisn Bathrun is 5 mile^ and to Atrabuhis 8 miles."' (Id.. 17.) An.viah.— "A small town of the Syrian coast, to the east of Juhail and of Jabal SahyOn, and S leagues irom the latter." (Yak., i. 390 ; Mar., i. 98.) \.\AH. — "A town of the Jordan Province." (Ydk., iii. 595 ; Mar., ii. 229.) A'nak. — "A small town of the Haur&n, in the Damascus Province. They make here carpets and excellent clothes, which take their name from this place." (Yak., i. 316 ; Mar., i. 77.) Al AndarIn. — "A village," says Ydkflt in 1225, "that existed formerly to the south of Halab, a day's ride on horseback away on the edge of the desert. There are no habitations beyond it. It is now in ruins." ( \ ak., i. 373 ; Mar., i. 96.) Antart^s, or Am AR.si s (Antaradus, Tortosa» called at THK PRESENT HAV 1 A R 11 .s). - " A town on the coast of the Hims Fro\ iiice." ( Yl)., i 12.) Isiakhri and Ibn liaukal, viiii ;^ in the tenth rciuury. report: " Aniai.sus ^or Antartu.s) is a furlicss on the sea ; il is the frontier city of Hims. The Khalif "Othnian s Kuran is preserved here, l he city po.sse>>es stone walls, wliich preserve it from he'ng taken by surprise ; and so it escaped in our own days when the tireek Emperor Nikfur (Nicephorus in a.d. 966 and 968) ravaged the coast of .Syria. ' (Is., 61 ; I. H., 116.) " Antarsils," says Idrisi, " is a small town on the seaside with thronged bazaars ; much merchandise is seen there. The town Digitized by Google ANTARTUS, OR ANTARSVS.^ ARANDAL. 395 is at the end of a great bay, and above tt is a range of mountains. This bay measures some lo inilcs across. The city has a wall, and is very i>trungly Ibrtified." (Id.. 20, 22.) *' AntartOs (according to \ akut) is the last of the coast towns of ihi- Daniasr us Province, ll l)elonged originally to Hims, and by some IS said lo belong to Tarabuius. It lies east of 'Arkah, and 8 leagues from it. It possesses two towers that are like casiles. It was originally conquered by 'Ubaidah ibn As Samit, in a.h. 17 (638), after the taking of Al I^dhikiyyah and Jabalah. It was then demolished, and the place remained uninhabited for some years, till the Khalif Mu'awiyyah rebuilt it and fortified it, as he also did Marakiyyah and Bulunyds." (Yak., i. 388 ; Mar., i. 98.) Diinashkiy writing in 1300, says: "In Antarsus is a church belonging to the Christians, magnificently built There is here a chapel {bait) which is said to have been the first house built in the name of (the Virgin) Mary in Syria. The Khalif Mu'iwiyah rebuilt and enlarged the city, making it his capital during the days of the Khalif 'Othman. He also conquered the Islands of the Mediterranean, and made raids on Cyprus and Sicily, and he took the Island of Arwad. (See p. 399.) Antarsus was an ancient Roman fortress." (Dim., 208.) Abu-1 Fida, wriimi; a lew y^ars later, adds nothing lo the above accounts, which iie eupje>. ( A. 1., 229.) 'AkABAH. — " A place in the l ilastin Province." (Vak., iii. 633 ; Mar., ii. 246.) '.^RAHAVA. — "A ]>la(e which Hukhtnassar (Nebuchadne/./ar) attacked with his army." (Yak., iii. 633.) According to the Marasid (Mar., ii. 245) it lies in Syria. Arak, or Urak. A small town on the border of the Halab Desert, near Tadmur (Palmyra) and Urd. possessing palms and oHves. It was conquered by Khalid ibnal Walid. ' (Yak., i. 210 ; Mar., i. 48.) *Arandai-— « Thecapiul of the district of Al JiliM (Gcbalene)." (Yb., 114.) This is the ancient episcopal city of Arindela, which after the Arab conijuest fell to ruin. It is at present called Gharendel^ and lies on the Roman road going north from Shaubak or Mont- Koyal. Digitized by Google 396 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEBiS, In the thirteenth century, when Yaki^t wrote, it was only a village, in the Shanih Province. It was taken by the Muslims in 'Omar*s days» after the battle of the YarmQk. (Yak., iii. 657 ; Mar., ii. 251.) ArAr. — ** A place in the neighbourhood of Halab. It is the name of a Wadi mentioned in the histories of the Muslim con- quest." (Yak., i. 181 ; Mar., i. 40.) 'ArbasCs. — **A frontier fortress near Al Masstssah. It was ruined by Saif ad Daulah ibn Hamdan." (Yak., iii. 633 ; Mar., ii. 246.) ARHiKff. A place lying to the west of Halab." (Yak., i. 190 ; Mar., i. 42.) .^RFAD. — .A large village in the ncighbouriiuod of the 'Azaz District near Halah." (Yak , i. 209; Mnr., i. 47.) Akiha, or RiHA (Jkrkho). -"The capital of the (iliaur (or lowland of the Jordan), being, however, counted as in the i^alka Province." (Yb., 113.) " Ariha," writes Mukaddasi, " is the City of the (Jiants (men- tioned in the Kuran), and therein is seen the gate of which Allah spake to the Children of Israel (KurSn v. 25). There grows in these parts much indigo and many palms, and the city possesses illages in the Ghaur (of the Jordan), whose fields are watered from the springs. The heat in Jericho is excessive. Snakes and scorpions are numerous ; also fleas abound. The serpents called Tariyaki\}ah come from hence, from the flesh of which, used therein, depends the excellence of the Tariy&k (Theriack or Anti- dote) of Jerusalem. The people are brown-skinned and swarthy. On the other hand, the water of Jericho is held to be the lightest and best in all I>hiin. Ikmanas are jilentiful, also dates and flower^ <>t fragrant odour. " (Muk., 175.) On the subject of the Theriack sec above, p. 17. 'Ali of Hcrii ^ay^ that "at Riha is the Tomb of Moses." (Oxford MS., folio 26.) "Riha," says Yak(it, **lies 5 leagues, or a day's ride, fr<Mn Jerusalem, in the Ghaur of the Jordan Province. It is called Arlha also, and is the City of the Giants (mentioned in the Kur^n). It has many palm-trees, also sugar-canes in quantities^ Digitized by Google ARIHA, OR RtHA [J ERtCHO\,—'ARKAH, OR URKAH, 397 and bananas. The best of all the sugar of die Ghaur land is made hem The city is named after Arlhd. ibn Malik ibn Arfakshad ibn Sam (Shem) ibn Nflb (Noah)." (Yak., i. 227 il 8S4 ; Mar., i. 53, 496.) ** Ariha, or Riha," writes Abu-l FidS, is a village of the Ghaur, and is *the Village of the Giants' mentioned in the Books of the Jciws. It was the first place conciuered by Joshua. It lies 4 miles west of the Jordan, at the place where the Christians say the Messiah was baptized. Near here there are some mines of sulphur, the only ones in Palc^iine. Xcar Jiricho they grow the plant ( ailed ' W'nsniah,' from which they obtain the Nil (or indigo). Jericho lies 12 miles east of Jerusalem." (A. F., 236.) On the elision of the V in Hebrew names that have gone over into Arabic see Clermont Ganneau, Journal Asiatiquf^ J^77» i. 498. Other instances given are : Hebrew Ycztrel (Jezreel), modem Zar'm : Hebrew Yesiinoth (in Beth Jesimoth), modem Sueimeh^ and thus Yericho (Jericho) becomes the Arab Arihd, or lUha. Jericho to Jemsalem (Is., I. U.^ i march, or (Muk., Id.) 3 stages; to Zughar (Is., I. H., Id), 2 days, or (other MSS.) i day ; to Ar Ramlah (Muk.), i march ; to Ndbulus (Muk.), r march ; to Bait ar Rim (Muk.), 2 stages. Al'Ar!sh (Rhinocolura). — "A city that originally had two Mosques," says Idrts! in 1154, "but the sand has invaded them, and all the land round about. There are here many vegetable gardens, and fine fruits are grown. The town lies close to the sea.'" (Id, 4.) '* Al 'Arish, ' says Yakut, "iii the first town in Egypt on the Syrian side. It has been pillaged by the Franks, and nothing remains but some ruins in the midst of the sands.'* (Yak., iit. 660 ; Mar., ii. 253 ) 'ApjAMts.^ — "A village in the Bika'ah (Ccelo-Syria), near Ba'al- bakk. They say there is here the Tomb of Hablah the daughter of Noah." (Yak., iii. 637 \ Mar., ii. 246.) 'Arkah, or 'Irkah (Arca, or Arcados). — "A district of the Damascus Province on the sea<oast. There is here an ancient Digitized by Coogle ' 39S PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, city, inhabited by a population brought hither from Persia.** (Yb., 114.) 'Arkah,'' says Mukaddasi, " is a place lying some way from the sea." (Muk., 160.) The Persian traveller Nisir visited 'Arkah, and writes that in his day (1047) the city stood 2 leagues from the sea. (N. Kh.,6.) A few years later Idrtsl reports of 'Arkah, that it is " a fine and populous city lying at the foot of the hills, which are here not very high. In the midst of the town is a castle on a height ; and there is a large suburb. The place is very populous* and full of merchandise. Its pco[>le are rich. The drinking-water comes by an aqueduct that takes its origin from the river, which never runs dry, flowing close to the city. There are man) gardens with fhiit- trces and sugar canes, and there are mills on the river afore- mentioned. The town lies 3 miles from the sea-coast. Its fort is large, the food of the i/eojile is abundant and cheap. The houses are huilt of mortar and clay, and most of them are large."* (Id., 13.) '"Arkah," says Ahiil Fi<la, "is a small town, ])Ossessin£i; a small castle ; it has gardens, and a small river. Muhallabi, the geographer, counts it as of the dependencies of Damascus, being the furthest north of these along the coast 'Arkah lies 12 miles south ol 1 arabulus. ir'rom 'Arkah, going east to Ba'albakk, is 66 miles. The town lies about a league from the sea-coast" (A. F., 255-) Yakfit pronounces the name 'Irkah, and states that the town lies 4 leagues east of Tarabulus on the flank of a hill about i mile from the sea. " On this hill is a castle. Abu Bakr Al Hamadini counts it as belonging to the 'AwSsim Province. It lies between Rafaniyyah and Taributus. It is the furthest (town north) in the Damascus Province. It was ruined and plundered by Saif ad Daulah." (Yak., iii. 653 j Mar., il 250.) *Arkah, or 'Irkah, is the ancient Phoenician city of the Arkites mentioned in (lenesis x. 17. In Crusading Chronicles ii i> called Area, Arcadus, ur Archis. In i>y/,aniine times the place was known as Cacsarea of the Ixbanon. Digitized by Google ARMANAZ.—ARWAD. 399 ArmanAz.— "An ancient and small town, distant from Halab about 5 leagues. They make here pots and drinking-vessels» red in colour, and very sweet to smell. Arman^z, they say, is also the name of another town, near Sfir (Tyre), on the Syrian coast." {Yik., i. 217 ; Mar., i. 49.) 'Arrabah. — ** A place in the province of *Akkah (.'\«*re), on the Syrian coast." (Yak., iii. 627 : Mar., ii. 244.) AkSHiN, OR AkAjix Ai, Ki'sir (AksHix ok iiik Casif.ks). — A village in the distru i ot Halal) (.Mcppo), belonging to .-M Jazr." (Yak., 111. 640; Mar., ii. 247.) Aksi F (Apoi i.onia),— *' Arsuf," says Mukaddasi, "is smaller than YafaK. I)ut is strongly fortified and populous. There is here a beautiful pulpit, made in the first instance for the Mosque of Ar Rainlah, but which being found too small, was given to Arsuf." (Muk., 174.) " Arsftf, or t'rsilf," Yakut writes in 1225. ''remained in Muslim hands till taken by Kund Furi (Ciodfrey de Houillon) lord of Jerusalem* in the year 494 (iioi), and it is in the hands of the Franks at the present day. It lies between Csesarea and Jaffa " (Y4k., i. 307 ; v. 12; Mar., i. 46.) Abu-1 Fidi in 1321 writes that **ArsAf, in Filasttn, was a populous town, having a castle. It lies on the coast of the Greek Sea, 12 miles from Ar Ramlah, 6 miles from Yi0, and 18 from Kaisariyyah. It has a market, and was surrounded by a wall ; but at the present day the town is in ruins, and there are no inhabitants." (A. F.. 239.) Arsflf is the ApoUonia of the (ireek.s, which the ('rusadcr> niistuok for Antipatris Arsuf to Ar Ramlah (Muk.), 1 march ; to Kaisariyyah (Muk.), I march. Ariah. — "An impregnable fortress in the district of Halab (Aleppo). It belonged to the 'Awasim Provmce, and many learned men were natives of it. * (Yak., i. 190 ; Mar., i. 42.) Arnvad (KuAD, Akadus).^ — "The Island of Arwad," writes Idrlsi in 1 154. " is in the sea, near Antarsus. On this island is a magnificent church, finely and solidly built. \ tTy high and im- pregnable, having doors of iron ; so that it is like a guard* house." Digitized by Google 400 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. On the margin of the Oxford MS. of Idrisi (Cod. Bibl. Bod , No, 887), written at the end of the fifteenth century, is the follow- ing note : " The city of Arwad lies on an island opposite the town of Marakiyyah, which stands on the sea-shore, and between Marakiyyah and the island is ahont two bow-shots. This island was taken from out of the hands of the Franks^ in the days of (the MamlAk Sultan) An Nasir ibn Kala*un. At the present day there are no inhabitants, and it is the same as regards the city of Marakiyyah, the people of which have removed to the mountain for fear of the Fmnkish soldiers. The place is empty and deserted, though the houses and other buildings are still standing down to the present time, as likewise the sugar presses, which are built outside the town towards the east.'* (Id. so.) Arzi'^na. — " One of the villages of Damascus." (Vak., i. 206 ; Mar., i. 46.) As! ik\H.— "A village of Halal) (Aleppo)." (Vak., i. 251 ; Mar., i. 61.) .XsKtJNA. — '''I'he name of a fortress which exi^icd near Ma'arrah an Nu'mnn, in Syria. It was taken and dismantled by Muliainmad ibn Nasr ibn Salih ibn Mirdas al Kilabi." (Vak., i. 249 ; Max., i, 60.) AsHM<>NtTH. — " The name of a spring outside Halab (.MeppoX and to the south. It waters the gardens of the city, and its over- flow goes into the river Kuwaik." (Vak., i. 283 ; .Mar., i. 69.) 'AshtarA ('Ashtaroth op Edrei). — A place in the Haui&n, belonging to the Damascus Province." (V&k., iii. 679; Mar., ii. 259.) This represents the Biblical Ashtaroth of Deut. i. 4, etc. 'AskalAn (Ascalon).*— In Ibn Zubair's day," said Bilitd- huri, the Greeks raided and destroyed 'Askal^ and its Mosque. The KhaUf 'Abd al Malik rebuilt the city, fortified it, and rebuilt the Mosque also." (Bil., 143 ) l lu; city is mentioned by Yakubi as "a town of l*alcstinc on the sea coast. (Yb., 1 1 7.) The Mosque buiit, or rebuilt, by 'Abd al Malik, was subsequently * Spelt 10 Arabic with the (guttural) initial 'Ain. Id Hebrew AshkaloQ is with an initial Alefdi. Sec above p. j8l. Digitized by Google 'ASK ALAN, 40t restored by the Abbaside Khalif Al Mahdi, in 772 (155 a.h.), three years before he mounted the throne on the death of his father Al MansOr. The inscription set up by Al Mahdt has been discovered by M. Clermont-Ganneau. As given in the foumal Anaiiqm for 1887, vol. ix., p. 485, it may be translated as follows : ""Al Mdhdi^ the Commander of the Faithful^ hath ordend the huUding of this minaret and of this mosque, at the hands of Al Mufaddal ihn Sallhm^ and Jahtr Wn Hishhrn, in the month of Muharram^ in the year 155." Mukaddasi, writing in 985, says: " 'AskaUn on the sea is a hwc cit), and strc)nL;ly garrisoned. Fruit is here in plenty, especially that of the sycamore tree, of whi( ii all are free to eat. The great mos(|ue stands in the market of the clothes-merchants, and is paved tliroiij^hout with marble. The city is spacious, opulent, healthy, and well fortified. The silkworms of this place are re- nowned, its wares are excellent, and life there is pleaiiant. Also, its markets are thronged, and its garrison alert. Only its harbour is unsafe, its water> brackish, and the sandily, called Dalam, is most hurtfiiL" (Muk., 174 ) The Dalam sand-fly, be it noted, is still a well-known pest of the coast countiy of Syria. The Persian traveller, Nitsir, visited Ascalon in 1047. He writes : **The bazaar and the mosque are both fine, and I saw- here an arch, which they told roe was ancient, and had been part of a mosque. The arch was built of such mighty stones, that should any desire to throw it down, he would spend much money before he could accomplish it." (N. Kh., 61.) In 1 1 00 Ascalon fell into the hands of the Crusaders, but was afterwards re taken by the Fatimites. In 1 154 Idrist writes : ** 'Askalan is a (itie town, with a double wall, and there are markets. W ithout the town there are no gardens, and nought is there in the way of trees. The (lovernor of the Holy City,* with a (Ireck arrnv of the Franks and others, conquered u in the year 548 (1153), and at the present day it is in tlieir hands. 'Askalan is counted as included in the Filastin Province. 'A.skalan, Arsut*. and Yafa, arc all towns of the coast of Palestine. The three are of about the same size and note, being well fortified and very * King Baldwin III. 36 Digitized by Google 403 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, populous. Olives and vines arc grown here in plenty." (Id., 5 and 1 1.) 'Ali of Herat notes that "between Bait Jibrtn and 'Askal4n is the Valley of the Ant, where^ according to tradition, Solomon spoke with these insects." (See Kuran xxvii. 17, 18.) ^Askalin," he continues, " is a line and beautiful city. There is near here the Well of Abraham, which they say he dug with his own hand ; but of the truth of this Allah knows best." (A. H. Oxf. MS., folio 46.) "'AskalSn/' writes YakCit, "was conquered by the Franks in 548 (1153), and reconquered in 583 (1187) i)y Saladin, alter 35 years had elapsed."' According to the same authority, 'AskaBn means A7d ar Ads, ' the SuiiimiL of the Head,' that is, tlu- Summit uf Syria. *' The eity is also named 'Arus ash Mdni, the Bride of Syria." (Yak., iii. 673 : Mar., ii, 258.) Richard of l^ornwall, Kin^ Richard Coeur de Lion's nephew, attcmjiled in 1240 to restore the walls of Ascnlon, hut failed, and Sultan Baibars dismantled the city in 1270, since which period it has remained in ruins. Abu- 1 Fida in the fourteenth century writes; "'Askalan, in Filastin, is a town where there are ancient remains. Ti lies on the sea coast. Between it and Ghazzah the distance is about three leagues. It is one of the fortresses of Islam in Syria. Muhallabi says 'Askalin stands by the sea-shore on an elevation, and is one of the finest of the coast towns. It has no harbour. Its inhabi* tants drink well-water, which is sweet (not brackish). Between it and Ghazzah the distance is 10 miles, and between it and Ar Ramlah 18 miles. At the present da) it is in ruins, and there are no inhabitants." (A. F., 231.) The dismantled city was visited by the traveller Ibn Batfitah in 1355, who speaks of it as *' a total ruui, though formerly a beautiful place. Tiic head of Husain (the grandson of the Prophet), whu ii wa^ here, is now in Cairo. It used to l)e kept in the I)eauti- ful moscjue at 'Askalan, built by one of the Fatimite Khalits, as the inscri{)tion over the gate still shows. To the south of this building is a large mosijiie, called tlie iMosriue of 'Omar, of which nothing now remains but its walls ; in it are many fine marble columns, some standing and some fallen down. To the south of Digitized by Google ASKAR AZ ZAJTUN,-~*ATHLiTH. 'Askalan are the Wells of Abraham. You descend to them by broad steps leading to a chamber. On all four sides of this chamber are springs of water gushing out from stone conduits. The water is sweet, but is not very abundant. The people tell many stories about these springs. Outside 'Askaldn is the W4dl of the Ant.'* <I. B.» i. 126.) 'Askat&n to Ar Ramlah (Is., I. H., Muk., Id.), i march; to Ghaizah (Is., I. H.), less than 1 march, or (Id.) 20 miles ; to Ya£l (Muk.), i march ; to Rafh (Muk.), t march ; to MimSs, going west (Id), ao miles. 'AsKAK AZ ZaitCn. — "A place in the neighbourhood of Nibulus, in the Filastin Province." (Yak., iii. 675 ; Mar., ii. 258.) 'AssAn. — " A village lying about a league from Halab (Aleppo). It has a mosque." (Yak., iii. 671 ; Mar., ii. 257 ) Wadi Ai Asi ir. — Wl- traversed ihis/' writes Jubair, "on the road Uelween liunin and Tibnin. It is a vallev clothed with trees, the p"enter number of which were of the kind called Rand (laureKs <>r myrtles). This wildi is very deep, and is like a fosse. It is called Al Astii, and no army could traverse it by force. It is very wonderful to see. Thence we marched, bearing to our left, and reached Til)nin (Le Toron)." (I. J., 304.) Atham.— " A place in Syria mentioned by the poets." (Yik., iiL 686 ; .Mar., ii. 263.) Al Atharib (Cerep of the Crusades). — "A celebrated castle about three leagues from Halab (Aleppo), and between it and Antioch. The name is the plumi fomi of Tharb, meaning *■ Sheep-&t* It is at present in ruins, and near it is the village called by the same name." (Y4k., L 1 14 ; Mar., i. 21 ; A. F., 231.) Al Athdrib to Halab (Is., I. H., Y&k., Muk.), i day ; to Ant^. . iyyah (Is., I. H.), 2 days. \\thIr.— '* A place in Syria." (Yak., iii.617 ; Mar. ii. 238.) WTMLfTH (Chateau Pelerin). — ** A fortress on the coast of the Syrian Sea, called also Hisn al Ahmar (the Red Fort). It was retaken (from the Crusaders) by Saladin in a.h. 5S3 (1187)." (A ak., L 156; iii. 616; Mar., i. 32 ; ii. 237.) Called Castellum Ferei^rinorum and Petra Ineisa in Crusading chronicles; it was the great stronghold ol the Templars, 26 —2 Digitized by Google 404 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Ard AiiKAH ('Atikah's I.and). — " Oiitside the gate called Bab al Jabiyah at Damascus. It is called after 'Atikah, daughter of the Khalif Ya/id ibn Mu'awivah, who had a castle there. She was the wife of the Khalif 'Abd al Malik ibn Marfan, and mother of the Khalif Yazid ibn 'Abd al Malik. The Khalif 'Abd al Malik died at this castle." (Yak., i. 208 ; Mar., i. 47.) Ar. AtmIm. — " A place in the Province of Hims." (Yb., iia.) Ai. AtrC'n. — " .\ town near Ramlah in the P'ilastin Province." (V&k., i. 310; Mar., i. 75.) This is doubtless the Castrum Boni Latronis of the Crusades. NSsir-i-Khusrau (N. Kh.» 22) also mentions it AuDAN. — "A large village standing under a hill between Mar*ash and the Euphrates." (Y&k., i. 399 ; Mar., i. 101.) Al Aula;. — A place in Syria." (YAk., i. 407 ; Mar., i. 104.) Probably a variation in spelling of Aul&s. AulAs, or AuiXsh (Ei.£USA>. — " A fortress on the sea-^hore. The people here are extremely pious, and are stringently given to the works of Allah. It is the last place on the Greek Sea belong- ing to the Muslims, and near lierc the enemy are always en- countered. " (Is., 64 ; I. H., 163.) "Hisn Auliish,'' says Idrisi, "lii s on the sea, 12 miles from Tarsus, of whic h it i> the port. It is an impreLrnahle fortress." (Id., 25, 27.) "Aulas, or Aulash, is a fortress t)n the coast near Tarsus; within it is a fort called Hisn az ZuhM(the Anchorites' Fort)." (Yak., i. 407 ; Mar., i. 104.) From Aulis by the sea to Tarsus (Is., I. H.), 2 days, or (Id.) 1 2 miles. Al Av/,.\. — " A village at the gates of Damascus, near the B&b al Far^dis. Al Auz^' was originally the name of a tribe in Yaman, and the village was called after these people, for they migrated and settled here." (YAk., i. 403.) 'Awarta. — "A village, or small town, on the road from N^bulus to Jerusalem. There are here the tombs of YOsha* (Joshua) ibn Niin, and Mufaddal, the son of Aaron's uncle. I'hese lie in a cave, where also are buried seventy proi)hets.** (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 34, wliere, however, the name of the village is left blank. Copied by Yak., iii. 745 ; Mar., ii. 289.) Digitized by Google 'AWIR.—AZDUD, OR YAZDUD. 405 'AwtR. — A village in Syria, or else the name of a spring lying between Tadmur (Palmyra) and Halab." (Yak., I 74S; Mar. ii. 290.) AyAs. — Abu-1 FidA in the fourteenth century speaks of it as "a large city of Armenia, oti the sea-coast, possessing a fine port, which is the harbour for those parts. In order to defend it, the Franks have recently buili a tuvver {hurj) like a tastle, close to this, in the sea. From Ayas t<» Daghras is two days mart h, and from Ayas to Tall Hamdun is about one mareh. Since the Mushins have retaki n the coast towns, such as Tarabulus, 'Akkd, and the rest, from the I'ranks, these hist more rarely come into Syria, by reason of the harbours being in the hands of the True Believers. I he !• ranks now go rather to Ayas, because it is still in the hands of the Christians, and thus it has become a celebrated harbour, and a ^eat emporium for the merchants both by sea and by land." (A F., 249.) Al 'Azariyyah, or Al Aizariyyah (Bethany). — " A village near Jerusalem. There is here the tomb of Al 'Azar (Lazarus)^ whom Isft (Jesus) brought to life from being dead.'' (Yak., iii. 586, 752 ; Mar., ii. 226, 292.) 'AzAZ, OR A'ZAZ. — ** A town with a castle and lands, standing to the north, and a day's journey from Halab (Aleppo). It has a good climate and sweet water. There are no scorpions here, or other reptiles ; and earth from this place put on a scorpion kills it" (Yak., iii. 667 ; Mar., ii. 255.) " A V.a/," says Abu 1 I id.i, " is the name of a celebrated fortress, .md also of it.> ierriif)r\. It lie> south and somewhat west of Halab. It is extremely fertile, excellent and beautiful, and is one of the pleasantest of places, soil is red. 'I hey grow much cotton {Kufan) here, which is taken by ships to Sibtah (Ceuta), and other cities of the West. The place is made green by the masses of pistachio trees found here." (A. K, 231.) AzdCi), or Yazuli' (Ashdod, Azotus). — *'The name of a town.'" (Yak., iv. 1018; Mar., iii. 340.) Azdtkd, or Yazdad, to Ar Kamlah (Is., L H., Muk., Id), i march, or (L Kh.) 12 miles; to Ghazzah (Muk., Is., I. H., Id), I march, or (L Kh.) 20 mUes ; to Ubnah (Is., I. H.), i match. Digitized by Google 4o6 PALESnSE I'SUER THE MOSLEMS. Al Azrak (the Blue River).~'*A watering-place on the Hajj rcMite before reaching Taima."' (Yak., i 233 ; Man, «-S4.) " Al Azrak, ' sa} s Abu-1 Fidl, is the name of a fortress (Hisn) built by Al Malik al Mii'adhdham at the cd^c of the desert through which soes the road to the Hiiiaz. To the right from liicdce leads the road to Al 'Ula anu i^oak. while to the left is that to Tainm and Khaibar. Busra iies north of Al Azrak." {A. v., 229.) Ba ADHiN. — "A village of Haiab ^.\ieppo;. (Vak., i. 671; Mar., i. 161.) Al Bab (the Gatk;, and Al Biza'ah. — Ibn Jubair states in his Diary that Buzi'ah h'es six hours distant from Manbij, and hnlfa night's joumey from Dahwah. **It is smaller than a town, and larger than a vilbgc. There is a good market here. Above it is a strong castle. Water is in plenty, and gardens are all around. Near the bed of the WMt is a large village called Al B^b — that is, 'the Gate' between Buz4*ah and Aleppo. Its population eight years ago were of the Ismallian sect** (I. J., " Al BSb," according to Y&kAt, 'Ms a small town beside the WSdt ButniUi in the Halab district It is called also Bab Buzi'ah. There are markets here, and they make quantities of cotton stuSs called Kirbas, which are exported to Egypt and Damascus. Buza'ah, or Bi/a ah, tor it is pronounced eitlicr way by the people of Alep{)o, is a town belonging, some say, to Halab in the W adi Butnan. It is a day's march from Halab, and the like from Manbij. There is ninning water, also many springs, and a fine market." (Yak., i. 437, 603 : Mar., i. iii, 150.) " Al Bab and Buza ah,' writes Dimashki, '* are two tow ns, between them lying the W^di Butn4n. Along this runs a river called As S^jOr, which comes down from 'Ain Tkb,'' (Dim., ao5.) According to Abu-I Fida, "Al Bkb is a small town with a ^(larket, a bath, and a Friday Mosque, also many pleasant gardens ; Vile Buz&'ah is a small domain belonging to Al Bfib, outside of ich lies the (Mash-had) shrine and tomb of 'Akil tbn Abi Tftlib Digitized by Google BA BILL A ,—BA GHRA S, 407 (brother of the Khalif 'Ali). It lies a <lay's inarch north^st of Halab." (A. K., 267.) Bahii.la A village lying about a mile outside Halab ; which at the present day is verv populous.'" (Vak., i. 446 ; Mar., i. 1 1,?.) Badama. "A village belonging to Halab. in the neighbour- hood of 'Aziz, It is mentioned in tin- Traditions {Nadtih) in connection with Adam." (Yak., i. 459; Mar., i. 116.) Bm)hani>l'x (PoDENnoN). '* village ot the Thughur (or Frontier Fortresses), a day s march from Tarsfis. Al MamOn died there in the year 218 (833), and was buried at Tarsiis, near the Bab Badhandfin, in the wall of that city." (YaL, L 550 ; Mar., i- 1 35-) Al BadI'ah. — A spring near Hism^ and Hismi is a moun- tain in Syria." (Yak., i. 527 ; Mar., i. 134.) Al Badiyyah. — A spring two marches from Halab (Aleppo), on the road to Salamiyyah." (Yak., i. 527 ; Mar., i. 134.) Baghras (pAGRiC). — '* A town where there is a Friday Mosque. It lies on the road of the Frontier Fortresses, called Ath Thughflr. The almshouse here was instituted by Zubaidah (the wife of Hdrdn ar Rashid ), and there is no other in all Syria that is as large." (Is., 65 ; I. H., 163 ; copied by A. K., 259.) Idrisi speaks of the place as "Hisn Baghras (the l ort of Baghras), where there is a Friday Mosrim-, and a great population. It lies on the road to the Frontier Fortresses." (Id , 27.) *' Baghra/. or Baghr 1-^, -;a\s \'akut, "stands on the flank of the Jabal al l.ukkam, 4 leagues from Antakiyyah, on the right of one who goes trom Aleppo to Antioch. This part of the country overhangs the province round TarsGs. It was of old in the hands of the Franks, but Saladin conquered it in 584(1188)." (Yak., i. 693 : Mar., i. 163.) " Baghras,'' says Abu-l Fida, "in the Kinnasrin Province, pos- sesses a high castle. There are springs and valleys round it, and gardens. Mut>allabi says from Baghr&s to Antikiyyah is 12 miles, and from Baghrds to IskandarQnah is 12 miles also. It stands on the mountain that overlooks the 'Amk of H&rim. H&rim lies to the east of it, and 2 marches away. Baghr^ lies south, and about a march from Darbassak." (A. F., 259.) Digitized by Google • 408 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Ibn Batutah, who visited the spot in 1355, speaks of Baghras, near Antioch, as a strong castle, with gardens and ftelds all round it, lying on the rood to Sis, in Litde Armenia. (1. B., I 163.) Baghras to Ant4kiyyah (Is., I. H.) i day, or (Id.) 12 miles ; to IskandarOnah (Id) 9 miles. BahasIthA. — *'A laiige quarter lying to the north of Halab (Aleppo). Its people are Sunnis/' (Yak., i. 458; Mar., i. BahasnA (Behesdin).^^* A strong fortress near Mafash and Sumaisat. It stands on the summit of a mountain. Rustflk KaisAm is of its dependencies. At the present day it belongs to the Halab Province." (Vale., i. 770 : Mar., i. 183.) *' Bahasna,'' i»ays Al)u 1 Fida, " is a strong, high-built castle, with gardens, and a small river, also a market ; and excellent farms helong to it. It has a Friday MDM^ue, and there are broad and fertile lands all round. It lies about six days from Siwas. and is one of the most imi)regnable of castles. It lies about two days' inarch north-west of 'Ain l ab.' (A. F., 265.) B.MRLT (Bervtus). — " BairQt at the present day," writes Va'kubi, in 891, " is entirely peopled by Persians, brought here and settled by the Rhalif Mu'awiyah." (Vb., 1 14.) Istakhri and Ibn Haukal write: " Bairdt, in the Damascus Province, is not far from Tripoli. Al 'Au2a1* (the i'raditionist) lived here. Bairlit has many palm-trees and sugar-canes and plen- teous crops. The commerce of the sea comes here, and its roads are never infested nor stopped. The town is well fortified, and has fruitful lands round it The walls are strong, and prices here are moderate. The population are God-fearing and peaceful in their ways, although they can also defend themselves well against an enemy." (Is., 65 ; I. H., 116.) Mulcaddasi merely mentions Bairut as " a fortified city on the sea." (Muk., 160.) The Persian tra\eller, Nasir-i-Khusrau, visited Bairut in 1047, and writes in his Diary : "From Jubaii we eame on 10 Kairiit. Here 1 saw an arch of * For his life see Ibn Khallikan, De iSlane's translation, ii. 84. Digitized by Google BAlRUr. 409 stone^ so great, that the roadway went out through it ; and the height of the arch I estimated at 50 dls.* The side walls of the arch are built of white stone, and each block must be over 1,000 manns (or about ij tons) in weight. The main build- ing is of unbumt !)rick, built up a score of ells high. Along the top of the saiuc are set marble culiimns, each column i>t ells tall, and so thick that wiih difficulty could two men with their arms outstretched einl)race the circumference. Above these columns they have built arcades, both to right and to left, all of stones exactly fitted, and constructed without mortar or cement. I'he great ( entre arch rises up between, and towers above the arcades by a height of 50 cubits. The blocks of stone that are used in the construction of these arches, according to my estimate, were each 8 cubits high, and 4 cubits across, and by conjecture each must weigh some 7,000 manns (or about 10 tons). Every one of these stones is beautifully fashioned and sculptured after a manner that is rarely accomplished, even in (soft) wood. Except this arch no other (ancient) building remains. I inquired in the neighbourhood what might have been the purpose thereof; to which the people answered that, as they had heard tell, this was the gate of Pharaoh's garden ; also that it was extremely ancient All the plain around this spot is covered with marble columns^ with their capitals and shafts. These were all of marble, and chiselled, round, square, hexagonal, or octagonal : and all in such extremely hard slone. that an iron tool cati make no impression thereon. Now, in all the country round there is ai»iiareiuly no mountain or quarry from \vhi( h this stone can have been l>n)U»,4it ; and. again, there is another kind of stone that ha> an ap|K arance of l)eing nrtifirial.* and, like the lirst stone, this, too, is not work- able with iron. In various parts of Syria there may be seen some five hundred thousand columns, or capitals and shafts of columns, * This may have been the remains of one of the baths or theatres with which Herod Agrippa embellished Ikryttis ; or, possibly, it is the ruins of the celebrated college. t The liritish Mnseum MS. may read "twenty ells," but this is doubtless ;j clerical error. Z Referring, tioubtlcss, to basalt or granite, of which ancieni columns arc frequently found. Digitized by Google 4"0 t A LEST IS E ISDEK THE MOSLEMS. of which no one knows either the maker, nor can sav for what pur|> 'se they were first hewn, or whence they were brought." (X. Kh-. 9.) ** L.iirui, ' as Idri>i rejKjriN, *• lies on the shore of the sea. It is protected by ^fv^i ^nd broad stone waL>. In the neighbourhood, and Ikrlonging to it. is an iron mine, of ver\- gooa aittal. ami ca-y lu Aork. They extract from this, ore in quantity, and send it lu all parts of Syria. Bairut also has a grove of Snobur ]unc : these lie on Its southern >.ide. and extend as far as the Ixrbanon moun- tains. This trrovc may be estimated at some 12 miles square. The pcx»ple of Bairut drink from well-water." i Id., 16.) " Bairut,** sa)*s Vakiil, ** lies 3 leagues from S:don, and belongs to the Damascus Province. It remained in the hands of the Muslims in best of condition. Baghdawin (King Baldwin) — the Frank, who conquered Jerusalem — came against it and laid siege to it, taking the dty by stonn on the Friday, 21st of the month Shawwal, 50 j ( 1 1 10). It remained in the hands of the Christians until Saladin retrieved it from them in the year 583 (1187). (Yak., L 785 : Mar., i. xS8.) Abu-1 Fida in the fourteenth centur}* saj-s : Bairiit lies on the coast of Damascus. It possesses two towers {hurj\ and has gardens, and a river. The lands round are very fertile. .\1 'Auza i, the jurisconsult, lived here. It is the |>ort of Damax u>. 1 roni li.iirut to l>a'al!)akk. over the '.•Xkabah al Mughithah (the i'a.^s of Succour), is ;;6 miles. Between the twi> lie> the \()\\\\ of •.\rjainu>h. 24 miles from Bairut. Bairut i> a beautiful town. Water is brought to it by an underground channel." ih. F., 247. ) Ibn Batiitah passed through Bairut in 1355. He sixraks of it as **a small town with fine buildings, excellent bazaars and a Mosque. They export fruit and iron thence to Egypt." (I. B., i. 133) Bairftt to Damascus (Is., I. U., Muk., Id.), 2 days; (Yak.), 3 days ; to Tarabulus (I&, I. H., Muk.), i day ; to SaidA (Muk \ i march; to Hisn an Na'imah (Id), 24 miles; to Hisn al Max- liyyah, or Al Muradisiyyah (Id.), 8 miles. AisAN* (Bethshean, Scvthopolis). — ''Bais&n,** says Mukad* Digitized by Google BAISAN. 411 dasi, ** lies on the Jordan. It abounds in palm-trees, and from this place comes all the rice consumed in the provinces of the Jordan and of Palestine. Water is here abundant, and easily obtained ; but for drinking purposes its water is deemed heavy of digestion. The Mosque stands in the market-place, *iiid inany men ut pieiy make their home in this town.'' (Muk,, 1O2.) " liai.s.iti,"' writes Idrisi, "is but a small place, but it has many palms. And there ,i;rovvs here the Samdn (reed) of which they make the Samani mats. This reed is not found anywhere else except here, and nowhere else in iSyria is there any reed to equal it" (Id., 12.) Yakut writes of Baisaii, that it is a town of the Jordan Province in the Clhaur. They call it Lisdn al Ard^ the Tongue of the £arth. It lies between the Haurdn and the Filastin Provinces. Near it is the 'Ain al Fulfts (the Spring of the copper coin, called Fah^ Obolus), which is of paradise, though its waters are a little salt This spring is mentioned in the Hadtth (or Traditions of the Prophet). Bais&n suffers from the pest, and is very hot The inhabitants are brown-4skinned and woolly-haired by reason of the heat of its climate. Baisdn was celebrated for the number of its palms, but I, V'akOt, who have been there many times (thirteenth century), never saw more than two palm trees here, and these of the kind that give dates one year and wo more. This they say is a sign of the coming of the .\ntichrist Ad Dajjal." (Vdk., i. 788 ; Mar., i. 189.) It is noteworthy that there are no palm-trees seen in Baisan at the present day, neither is the rice, for which it was formerly celebrated, any longer cultivated here. " Baisan," says Abu-l Fida, '* in the Jordan Province is a small town, without walls, but possessing gardens, and streams, and springs. It lies on the west of the Ghaur, and is very fertile. Among its other streams is a small one coining from a spring which runs through the town. Baisim lies 18 miles from Tabftriy>'ah, and is to the south of it' (A. F., 343.) Bai^n to Tabariyyah (Is., I.H.), short 2 marches, or days, or (Id) 'part of day, or (Muk.) i march ; to Ta'dstr (Muk.), 2 stages ; to N&bulus (Muk.), i march. Digitized by Google 412 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Bait al Abar (The House of Wells).— "A village and district of the Ghautah of Damascus ; there are many other villages in its neighbourhood." (Y&k., i. 775 ; Mar., L 195.) Bait al Ahzan (The House of Lamentations). — ** A town being between Damascus and the coast. They say it is the place where Jacob passed the days of his lamentation when he was separated from Joseph. It was rebuilt by the Franks, and they made of it a great fortress. Saladin took it in 575 (1179) and destroyed it.'' (Yak., i. 775 ; Mar., i. 185.) Bait Akanls. — "One of the villages of the (lhautah of Damascus. Near it is liie toiiih of Abu Marthad iJiihar ibn al Ilusaiii, one of the Companions of the Prophet." (Yak., i. 775 ; Alar., i. 185.) Bah al Balat. — .\ village in tlie Ghautah (district round) Damascus." (Yak., i. 708, 77O ; .Mar., i. 168, 185.) Bait Jann.- — *' A villaue between Darayyah and Baniyas, lying among tht; hills. We travelled," says Ibn Jubair, "thence to Baniyds, and half way on the road thither we passed an oak-tree (Bai0) of great size of trunk, with spreading branches, which they informed us was called the Tree of the Balance {ShajarcU al Maizan). When we inquired the reason, we were told this oak marked the limit between safety and danger on this road This is by reason of the brigandage of the Franks ; for on the one side they seize on everybody they find, while on the other travellers are safe from them," (I. J., 303.) Bait JiBRiN, or Bait JibrIl (The House op Gabriel ; Beto- gabra, Eleutheropolis). — An ancient city of Palestine." (Yb., 117.) " Bait Jihril, " said Mukacklasi, " is n city partly in tlie hill country, partly in the plain. Its territory ha:s the name ul Ad ! )arum (the anc ient 1 )aromn and the modern Dairan), and there are here marble quarries. The district sends its produce to the capital (Ar Kamlah). It is the emporium for the neighbouring country, and a land of riches and plenty, possessmg hne domains. The population, however, is now on the decrease, and impotence has possession of many of its men." (Muk., 174.) " Bait Jibrin, or Jibril," says Y^kOt, lies between Jerusalem Digitized by Google BAiT KUFA^^BAIT UHYA 413 and 'Askalan, or (ihazzah, being 2 marches from Jerusalem, and less from Cihazzah. There was here a fortified castle which Saladin destroyed when he took it from the Franks. Between Hait Jibrin and 'Askalan is a valley called VVddi an Narol (the Valley of the Ant), where Solomon spoke with these insects (see above» p, 402)" (Yak., I 776; Mar., i. 185.) At the time of the first conquest by the Arabs, under 'Amr ibn al 'As, that chief had at Bait Jibftn a domain, called 'Ajl4n, after one of his freedmen." (Y^., il 19.) Bait Jibril to Ar Ramlah (Muk.), i march; to Jerusalem (Muk,), I march ; to Ghazzah (Muk.), i march. Bait KOfa. — " A village of Damascus." (Yak., i. 779 ; Mar., i. 186.) Bait Laha. — " A fortress high up on the fahal lailun, between Antakiyyaii and I hilab (Aleppo). There was stationed here a warder who wati hed, in the beginning of the day, the road towards Antiuch, arid at the end of it towards Aleppo." (Vak., i. 779 : Mar., i. 187.) Hah LniYA.— " Hait Libya," says 'Ali of Herat, "or more correctly Bait Ali hah (the House of (iods), is a village of Damas- cus, where Abraham broke to pieces the idols of his father,"* (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 180.) "Bait Lahiyyah, or Lihyii," Ibn Jubair writes in his Diary, *' lies east of Damascus, on the right of the road to Maulid Ibrahim (the Birth-place of Abraham). It is more properly Bait al Alihah, the * House of Idols.' In ancient times there was a church here, which is now a mosque. It was of old the temple where the &ther of Abraham made his idols and kept them. But Abraham came and broke them to pieces. The temple is now the mosque of the inhabitants, and its roof is beautifully ornamented with mosaic of coloured marbles." (I. J., 279.) YSkftt gives the following account of the Idol Temple at Bait I.ilua, \vhieh he says is a celebrated village in the (lhautah, out- side tile gates of r)amascus : " It is more properly Bait Alihah (the idol House;, i hey say thai Azar, the father of Abraham, * Fur the Muslim tradition of Abraham and his hreakinf* of his father's itiols, see G. Weill BH>tische I^gcndcn der Mmtlnidttntr^ p. 7a Digitized by Google 414 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. *the Friend,' had ( arvod idols, and Iiad set them before Abraham that he should pay homage to them. But Abraham took a Stone and liroke them in pieecs ; and this stone is at the present day shown at Damascus (see p. 256), and from it is called the Darlf a/ Hajar^ ' Street of the Stone,' in that city. Now I (Yakut) say, the truth is that Abraham was bom at Babil (Babylon), and it was there that Azar made his idols. Also in the Thaurah (Pentateuch) it is written that Azar died in Harrin, for he left lnU( (Babylonia) and went to Harrin, and remained there till he died, and' it is not stated that he ever came to Syria ; but Allah knows best the truth of all this.'' (Y&lc, i. 780 ; also iv. 371^ where the name is given under Lihyd; Mar., i. 187, iit. 231.) " Bait IlAhiyyah," so the name is spelt by Ibn Batfitah, '* is a village lying to the east of Damascus. There was here a church, where Azar (father of Abraham) used to carve idols. These Abraham broke to pieces. There is now a fine Jami' Mosque here, beautifully (jrnamented with mosaics and coloured niarbles, very wonderful to see." (T. B., i. 2-^7.) Bait Lihya is not marked on the map. Ibn Batutah states thai the village lies to the east of Damnseus, and all authorities mention it as a well-known place in the (ihiitah, so well known, in fact, that they unfortunately omit to indicate its exact position. No mention of the place is to be found in the works of Burton, Porter, and other travellers. Robinson mentions a village called Beit Lehya (iVw<7rM<rf, vol. iii., 1852, notes to pp. 426, 428), lying west of Klsheyah, which in Badeker {Syria^ p. 452) is called B^t L&ya. But this, if Ibn Bat(itah's indication ot the position east of Damascus for Bait lihy^ is to be credited, can hardly be the same place, for Risheyah lies west of the (ihfitah, under the spurs of Mount Hermon. Bait Lihya (2)— "Near Ghazzah, of the like name to the above. It is a village with many fruit-trees." (Mar. in Yak., v. 15.) Bait MamA. — "One of the villages of Nibulus in the Filastin Province. Its people were Samaritans, and the poll-tax on ever\- man of them was 10 Dinars (;£^5) ; but they complained of it to the (Kiialif) Al Mutawakkil, and he reduced it to 3 Dinars. ' (Yak., i. 781 ; Mar., i. 187.) Digitized by Google BAIT MA MIN. - BA K TA TJS. 4»5 Bait MamIn.— «*A village of Ar Ramlah/' (Yfik., i. 781 ; Mar.» i. 187.) Bait NikeA. — "A small town in the neighbourhood of Filastfn (Ar Ramlah)." (Yak., i. 781 ; Mar., i. 187.) This village, lying half-way between Jerusalem and Ramlah, has been identified with the Nob of i Samuel xxt. 1. Bait Ramah, or Bait Ar Ram. — "A celebrated village lying between the Balkfi I*rovince and the (Ihaur (of the Jordan)." (\ak., i. 777 ; Mar., i. 186.) Bait Ar Ram to Ariha (Jericho) (.Muk.), 2 stages; to 'Amman ^Muk.), I march. Ham Ras ( i ). — " A villas^e of letusalcni, or, it is said, belonging to the Jordan Province. I hcrc are quantities of vines here, from which the celebrated wine is made." (^ ak., i. 776 ; Mar., i. 186.) Bait Ra.s (2). — *'A village near Halab (Aleppo). Here also vines are in plenty, and wine is called from the name of this place." (Idem.) Bait SAba.— *'An Iklim (or district) of Bait al Abir, ne&r Jarmlbiis (of Damascus)." (Yak., i. 778 ; Mar., i. 186.) Bait Sar'A. — Mentioned by Mukaddasi as lying i march distant from Damascus. (Muk., 190.) Bait SawA. — " A village of DamascuF.** (Yak., i. 778 ; Mar., i. 186.) Bajj HaurAn. — One of the districts of Damascus ; also the name of a village at the gate of Damascus, in (the district of) Iklim Banas." (Yak., i. 496: Mar., i. 127.) BAk'A Ai. 'Aks, am> Hak'a K.iiii'AH.— *' Two Kurnhs (districts) of Manbij. 'Ihcy lie near the Nahr (river) as Sajiir. ' (Yak., i. 701 ; Mar., i. 166.) Bakarha.—" A village belonging to Halab (-\leppo)." (Mar. in Yak., v. 14.) BakhjIn. — Mentioned in the i )iarv of Il)n jubair as Iving south of Kinnasrin. The caravan rested at the Khan at Turkman. "All the Khdns on the road between Halab and Hamah," says Ibn Jubair, are like fortified castles with iron gates, and very strongly built." (I. J., 256.) BaktAtjs. — ^' A village of Hims.'* (Yak., L 700; Mar., i. 165.) Digitized by Google 4i6 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Hai.adah. — *' A town on the coast of Syria, near Jabalah. After its conquest by 'L'hadah il)n as Samit the place fell to ruin, and the inhabitants were carried to other places. The Khalif Mu'awiyah used the materials of the old city for rebuilding Jabalah. It was anciently a fortress of the Greeks, as mentioned by Bila- dhun."' (\ ak., i. 718; Mar., i. 170.) Balas. — A town lying 10 miles from Damascus." (Vak., i. 708 ; Mar., i. 168.) Bal'as. — "One of the districts of Hims." (Vak., i. yiz; Mar., i. 171.) Ai. BalAt. — "An ancient town lyii^ between Mar'ash and AntAkiyyah. It is now in ruins^ The district is watered by the Nahr al Aswad, and belongs to Halab. Al Balftt is the chief town of the Kfirah of Al Huww&r." (Yak., L 709; Mar., i. 168.) Balatah.— A village of the N&bulus District in Filastln. The Jews say that it was here that NimrOd (Nimrod) ibn Kan^ln threw Abraham into the fire ; the learned, however, say this took place at Habil (Ijabylon), in 'Irak -and Allah alone knows the truth. [ here is here the spring called 'Ain al Khidr. Vusuf (Joseph) as Sadik — pea( e be on him ! — was buried here, and his tomb is well known, lymg under the tree." (Yak,, i. 710 ; Mar., i. 168.) Bai-atunus, or Balatuni'sm (Man'sio Pi.ataxus of the Itineraries). — "An impregnable fortress on the Syrian coast, opposite Al Uidhikiyyah, in the Halab Province." (Yak., i. 710 j Mar., i. r68.) "Hisn Halitunus," writes Dimashki in 1300, **is a perfectly impregnable fortress. It has eleven gates, each one above the other. The port of BaUtunus was founded by the Ghassanide king, Jabalah ibn al Ayham, and it has been rebuilt since the days of Islam. It was of old a city of the Sabseans, and there are very ancient remains here dating from the days of Noah, Abraham and Moses. There is here an underground tunnel hy which a horseman may ride down (from the fortress) to a shij) lying at the sea>shore, and yet not be seen.'' (Dim., 308.) Bali'ah. — One of the villages of the BalkS of the Damascus Digitized by Google BA US.—BANAKUSA . 417 Province. Here lived Bal'am ibn al Munsalikh (Balaam, son of Beor), to whom the word of Allah came as in the words of the Kur&n (vii. 174). 'Recite to them the history of him to whom we vouchsafed our signs, and who departed from them, so that Satan followed him» and he became one of the seduced.' (Yak., i. 479 ; Mar., i 22.) BAus (Barbalissus). — '* B&lis is a small city of the 'Awasim Province, lying a sh(Mt way from the Euphrates* and on its westerA bank. It is the first Syrian town you come to from 'Irftk, and the road to it is much frequented, and from B&lis go many highways. It is, as it were, a port to the Syrians on the Huphrates. How- ever, since tlie days of Sail ad Daulali, its buildings have gone 10 ruin, and caravans and merchants go there much less than of old. The city has stroni; walls, and gardens in the lands lyin;^ bciween it and the Kujjhratcs. Its chief crops are wheat and barley." (Is. 62 : I. H., 1J9 : coj^ied by A. F., 269.) ** Balis,"' says Mukaddasi, "is situated on the frontier towards Ar Rakkah, and is a populous place." (Muk., 155.) "Balis,*' writes Vakut, "lies between Halab and Ar Rakkah, a short distance from the west bank of the Euphrates. It is called after Balis ibn Ar KOm ibn al Yakan ibn Sam ibn Nuh (Noah). The Euphrates bed has moved gradually to the east- ward, and is now 4 miles distant from Bilis. The town is men- tioned along with Kasrain by BiladhurL" (Yak., i. 477 ; Mar., i. C22.) '* Balis, in the Kinnasrin Province, was once a well inhabited cit}'. It stands on the western bank of the Euphrates. Muhal- labi states that from BSlis to Kala'ah DAshar, known at the present day as Kala'ah Ja'bar, on the east of the Euphrates, is 5 leagues. '\ o the west of the Euphrates, and opposite Kala'ah fa'bar, is the plain of SitTin, where the gr^at batik- was fouL^ht (between 'Ali nnd Muawiyah). It is 7 leagues from Kala'ah Ja'bar to Ar Rakkah." (.\. F., 269.) Balis to Halab (Is., I. H., Yak., Muk. t, 2 days. BanakCsa.- " A hill to the north, and outside AU'i)pu. In the fourteenth century it was the name of a quarter of that city." (Vak., i. 482 ; Mar., i. 123.) »7 Digitized by Godgle 4i8 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, BAnas.— " One of the rivers of Damascus." (Vak., i. 482.) BAniyAs (Paneas, C^sarea Philippi). — " The capital of the Province of Al Jaul4n." (Yb,, 114.) Bdniyas," writes Mukaddasi, *' is a city near the border of the Hulah (Merom I>ake), and lies at the foot of the mountain (of Hermon). Its climate is softer and pleasanter than that of Damascus. To this place have migrated the »;ieater jj^rt of the Mushtu inhabiiauia ol ihe frontier districts since I'arsiis was taken (l»y the (Treeks. in 065), and the population isslill on the increase, fnr daily men come hither. There is here an extremely cold river (one of the sources of the Jordan;, which rises from under the Mount of Snow (Hermon), and gushes forth in the middle of the town. Baniyas is the granary of Damascus. Its river irrigates cotton-lands and rice -fields. The city is pleasant to inhabit, being situated amo?ig lovely villages ; and the sole drawback is that the drinking-water is bad." (Muk., 160.) Bdniyils was visited by the traveller Ibn Jubair in 11 85. He writes in his Diary : '*This city is a frontier fortress of the Muslims. Itissmalli but has a castle, round which, under the wall, flows a stream. This stream flows out from the town by one of the gates, and turns a mill. B^iy&s was in the hands of the Franks, but was retaken by Nftr ad Dtn (in 1 165). The town has broad arable lands in the adjacent plain. Commanding the town is the fortress, still belonging to the Franks, called Hunin. which lies 3 leagues di.si.iiu from Baniyas. The lands in the plain belong lialf to the Franks and half to the Muslims ; and there is here the boundary cal]e<i Hadd al Miika^imah—the * Boundary of Dividing." The Muslims and I'ranks a})i)ortion the crojis equally between them, and their cattle mingle freely without fear of any being stolen." (T. J., 304.) Biniya.s, according to the author of the Marasid, stands on a river called Baliya, and lies under a mountain on which the snow lies (Hermon). Lemons and oranges grow here. (Mar., i. 123. ) YakOt gives no separate article to this town, and only mentions it incidentally. Biniy^s," says Abu-1 Fida, " is a small town, possessing many shrubs of the (bitter) sage-plant called Hamd and the like, also Digitized by Google BANIYAS.—BARADA. 419 stream'^ of water. It lies i h marches to the south west of 1 >aiiiascus. As Subaibah is the name of its castle, which is very strong, Baniyas lies at the foot of the Mount of Snow (Hennon), which overhanirs the town. There is always snow on this mountain, like a cap, and this disappears neither summer nor winter.** (A. F., 249.) As a note to one of the MSS. of Abu-1 Fida's geography, is the following : ** At the top of the mountain (Hermon) is a domain called Sard4. From thence to the domain of Kafarii, in the Wddl Kan'dn, is 18 miles. From Kafarli to Juhh Yiksuf, is 12 miles. From Bdniy^ to the domain called Bait Sibir, in the Wadi called Bait Jann, is 18 miles. Thence to the village — ^which for size is almost like a town — of Ddraya, in the Ghautah of Damascus, is 15 miles ; and thence into Damascus itself is 3 miles." (A. 1'., 270.) " P iiiy is," says Dimashki, "belongs to the Damascus Province. Its forir^ is called As Subaibah. It is a very ancient nml w rU forlilu d ti'wn, and there is j^leiity of the sagc-i>l.i!U hero. 1 he soil and ciimnte are good, and water is abundant. I here are many remams of the r,n (ks here. It was built, it is said, by Balnias (Pliny) the Sage, or, it is said, l)y Abuna Nawwas; the meaning of Abund being * master,' 'teacher.' He also was a Creek." (Dim., 200.) In the Journal Asiatique^ 1888, tome xii., p. 440, will be found a plan of Subaibah, the castle standing a short distance to the east, and above Bdniyis. In the following pages M. Max van Berghem gives an interesting account of the ruins, and of the Arabic inscriptions he found at Bdniyas. Baniyas to Damascus (Muk.), 2 days; to Kadas (Muk.), 2 stages ; to Jubb YOsuf (Muk.), i march, or 2 stages ; to Majdal Salam (Muk.), t stages. BaradA ( I The river of Damascus. (See p. 57.) B.AKAD.v (2). — "A village of Halab (/Meppo), in the neighbour- hood of As Suhill." (Vak., i. 558; Mar., i. 142.) Barada (3;. -"The name of a river of the Thughur (or Frontier Forlre.sses) near Tarsus." {Idem ; and see p. 63 ; Nahr JfaradtiM.) 27 — 2 Digitized by G<)OgIe PALESTIXE VSDER THE MOSLEMS, Al BaR-vh, — -A pL-«:c in the Hims Ihstrict.*' iii.) Bar:n. or Ba r in M : ns FcjiRANr rs'. — '*A fine town lying between Halab ar.d Hj:. Ah, tow^ards the we>: : or between Hims and the coast. Tbc vni^ pronunciadoa is fia'rin (with the gutciual 'Ain;." iYik^ L 465, 672 : Mar., L 118^ 163.) ^ Barin in the Hamah District,'* sajrs Abu-I Fida, " is a small tawn, with a castle already in ruins. It has springs roond it and gardens, and lies i march west, and rather south of Hamah. There are near here the remains of an ancient town called Ar Raibni}7ah (Raphanea), much celebrated in history. Hisn (the Fort of) Barin was built by the Franks in 480 and odd (about ictjo). The Muslims afterwards took it and kepi it awhile, and then dismantkcl it." <A. i ., 259.' Ar, BarIs.^ — "The name of a nver near Oama-scus. From it the Gate of Bab al Baris. at l>ama>cus, is called. Al Baris is sometimes taken as the name of the whole (ihautah (or Lands round I)amascu-s;."' (\'ak., i. 600: Mar., i. 149.) Al Barrah. — "The name of the j lace where Kabil (Cain> slew his brother H.ihil (AIkI)/' <Vak., i. 599; Mar., i. 149.) Bars Birt. — " A strong fortress in .\rmcnia, on a high moun- tain. It is one of the strong places of the king of ( Little; Armcn i.i. His treasur}' is here, and here are his summer quarters. It lies north of Sis, about a day's march, between the country of Sis, and the country of Ibn Karman (Karamania). It is a fortress domi- nating the country of Sis from the north, and it can be seen from afar." (A. F., 251.) Barth. — "The name mentioned in the Hadtth (or Tradition) as the place of sojourn of (Jesus) Isa ibn Maryam.'' (Y&k., i 54 ; Mar, i. 139.) BArCdh. — " In the Filastin Province, a village near Ar Ramlah." (Vak., i. 465 : Mar., i. 118.) Bakzah. — "A village of the Gliaunh (lam! rourul) Damascus. 1 here is here the shrine of Abraham the friend, which i.«> veutr- at« (1 by ihc barnaritan Jews. Many learned men live here ; and some say Abraham was born here ; but this is an error, for most that Abraham was born at Babil (Babylon) in 'Ir&k.*' 563 ; Mar., i. 143.) 1 Digitized by Google A L HA kZA MA S.—hA .^UI f. 421 A I. Barzaman. — **A castle of the 'Aw&sim Province, near Halab." (Yak., i. 562 ; Mar., 1. 142,) BarzCyah. — *'This the common people call Barzayah. It b a fortress near the coast of the Syrian Sea, and it stands on the summit of a steep mountain. It belonged originally to the Franks. It was taken by Saladin in 584 (1188). It is surrounded by ravines on all sides. The castle stands at a height of 570 ells ; and it had passed to a proverb among the Franks for its impreg- nability." (Vak., i. 565; Mar., i. 143.) "Hisn Barziyah/' says .'\bu-l Fida, " is a small c astle, standing very high, and which is very strong. It is seen at the foot, and to the cast of, the mountain called Al Khait, which overlooks the lakes of Aiamiyyah. The waters of the lakes come up to the castle, and the reeds are close under its walls. There arc no inhabitants except the men of the garrison for keeping the fort. The people round about flee hither for safety in times of terror. It lies north-west of Famiyyah, about a day's journey by water, and the lakes lie between the two. Barzlyah lies south of Shughr and Bak^s, about a long day*s march ; and about a day's march east of SahyAn." (A. F,, 261.) '* Barziyah," writes Dimashki, is a castle, so strong that it has passed into a proverb. Immediately under it is the Lake of Fimiyyah, a large sheet of water, into which, and out of which, the Nahr 'Asi (Oronles) flows. There is a dyke here. I hcy catch in the lake a sort of fish called Aukaiis (eclj, like a snake. Its flesh tastes like roasted sheep-tail. The Chribtians are ex- tremely fond of it, and the Government get a yearly revenue of 30,000 l)irhams{j£i,2oo) from their boats which ply on the lake." (Dim., 205.) I \ziR.\H \h Hasa.— "An island which is attached to the land (/>., a peninsula). It lies 10 miles by sea from Hisn al Muthakkab, and 15 miles from Hisn al Mulawwan." (Id., 24.) BasarfOt.—" a fortress belonging to Halab in the Jabal Bani Ulaim, now ruined. There is a village of this name near it** (YlUc, i. 621 ; Mar., i. 153.) BASRh-.—" A village of the Filastfn Province outside Ar Ramlah." (Ydk., i. 635 ; Mar., i. 156.) Digitized by Google 4ti PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, BasIr al Jaidi'r. — "A village in the neighbourhood of Damascus." (Vak., i. 656; Mar., i. 157.) BathrCx (Botrys). — "A fortress lying between Jubail and Anafah, on the sea-coast" (Vak., i. 493 ; Mar., i. 126.) Hisn BathrOn to Jubail is 10 miles; while to Hisn Anaf a) Hajar is 5 miles (Id.). Bayyas (Bai^e). — " A small town on the shore of the Greek Sea. It possesses palm-trees and many fruitful fields." (Is., 63.) Bayy4s is a small town lying to the east of Ant&kiyyah. It lies to the west of Al Masslssah, and only a short distance from it by sea. Between it and Al Iskandariyyah is about 2 kai;ues. The town lies close to the Jabal al Lukkdni." (Yak., i. 772 ; Mar., i. 1S4.) From Bayyas to Iskandariyyah (Lskandarunah) is i short marc ti (Is., I. H., Id.) : to Massissah (Is., I. H.), 2 marches or (Id.) I march ; to Tarsus by sea (Is., I. H.), 2 leagues ; to Al Kanisah (Is., I. H)., less than i day : to Al HarCiniyyah (Id.), 15 miles. BiK.\' K.ALB (The Pl.\in of C<i:lo-Svria). — *'A broad plain lying between Ba'albakk, Hims and Damascus, where there are many villages and running waters in abundance. In this l>ika* is the tomb of Iliyas (Elias)— peace be upon him: Most of the water here is from the springs at 'Ain al Jan." (Yak., i. 699 ; Mar., i. 165.) Ibn Jubatr notes in his Diary : *' Among the Mash-hads (shrines)^ which we did not see, but of which we were told, are the two graves of Seth and Noah— peace be on them both. They are in the Bikd', and two days' journey from Damascus. One who measured the tomb of Shith (Seth), reported to us that it was 40 fathoms {/m') long, and the tomb of NOh (Noah) was 30. The tomb of Noah*s son lies side by side with that of Noah. There is a building over the tombs, and an endowmciu lor charitable purposes." (I. J,, 283.) BiKiNMs.— " A village of the Baika Province in Syria." (Vak., i. 702 ; Mar., i. 166.) BiKiSRAiL, OR BiKi7RAiL. — "A fortrcss on the coast of the Hims Province, opp(^sitc Jabalah. It stands on a mountain.*' (Vak., i. 706 ; Mar., i. 167.) Digitized by Google BIR AS SA£\^AL BISHR, 423 UfR As Sab' (Beersheba). — This is the weU which Abraham — peace be on him ! — dug and built up." (Mar. in Yak., v. 14.) Al BfRAH (i).^'*A place lying between Jerusalem and NIbulus ; it was laid in ruins by Saladin — as I myself have seen — when he took it from the Franks.*' (Yak., i. 787 ; Mar., i. 189.) This is probably the Beeroth of Joshua ix. 17. Al BfRAH (2). — " A town near Suniatsat, between Halab and lilt Greek l ortresscs. Ii has a strong castle, with broad lands." (\"ak., i. 787 ; Mar., i. 188.) Al BfRAH (3). — " A castle below Jisr Manbij on the Euphrates, and a day s march from Sarfij." (Mar., i. 189.) "Al Hirnh," says Abu-1 Fida, "in the Kinnasrin Province, is a high-built and strong castle on tlic north-east bank of the Euphrates. It is impregnable. Near it is a valley called Wadi az Zaitun (the Valley of Olives), full of trees and springs. There is a market here, and the districts round all belong to the town. Its fort is built on the rock, and it is now (fourteenth century) one of the fortresses of Islam against the Tartars. It is like a port on the Euphrates, and lies about a march east of Kala'at ar Rum, and west of Kato^at an Xajm (or Jisr Manbij), and south-west of Sarftj." (A. F., 269.) BiRKAT AL KhaizurAn (The Bamboo Fool). — "A place in the Filastin Province near Ar Ramlah." (Yak., i. 592 ; Mar., i. J47-) BiRWAH. — " Between Acre and DimOn," says NAsir-i-Khusrau, is the village named Birwah ; and I made my visitation of the tombs, which arc ^cen there, of 'Ish (Esau) and Sham un ^Simeon) — f>eacc I)c on ihvm bulh '." (N. Kli., 14.) Ai BrsHR. — "The name of a mountain-chain stretching from 'Urd lo the Knphrates, and towards the desert. In it are four kind^ of nv'nes (or (|uarries). There arc niineN of liquid pitch (called .1/ Kar) ; and of the red chalk (called Al Mtighra/i) ; and of the clay {At Tin) from which they make the crucibles {baiuatik), in which iron is melted. lastly, there are sand-pits here, of the sand of which the) make the glass at Halab. This is a white sand like the white-lead (called Asfiddj).'* (Yak., i. 631 ; Mar., i. »55) Digitized by Google 9 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. BiTYAS. — "A village not far from the gate of Halab (Aleppo), between An Nairab and Babilln. There was at this place the palace of a certain Amir of Halab, called 'Ali ibn 'Abd al Malik ibn Salih ; but both village and palace are now in ruins." (Vak., i. 667 ; Mar., i, 160.) Al Budai*. — ** Said to be a mountain, black of appearance, in Syria, sometimes identified with Jabal al Xiswah in the Ghautah of Damascus. According to the tradition, this place is sanctified in the words of Jesus, Son of Mary- — peace 1)e upon Him — who said to the Ghautah of Damascus : * Let the rich be unable to collect treasure there, so that the poor of this region may ever be able to satisfy themselves with bread.' ** (Yak., i. 658 ; Mar., i. «57.) BuGUAiDiD (LiiTLi: Baghdad), — "A village of Halab," (Yak., i. 698; Mar., i. 174.) Bi^k'. — A place in Syria belonging to the lands of the tribe of Kalb ibn VVabrah.'* (Yak., i. 701 ; Mar., i. t66.) BCka, or Bukah. — *' Mentioned by Biladhun as in the .Antak- iyyah District. It was built by the Khalif Hisham, who after- wards fortified it." (Bil., 167 ; copied by Yak., i. 762 ; Mar., u 181.) BOkas, or Buka.— "A town lying between Halab and the Frontier Fortresses (Ath Thughfir) of Al Massissah. They often drop the final s*** (Yak., i. 761 ; Mar., t. 18a) BulunyAs (Balanea, the Valania of the Crusades^ at PRESENT CALLED Baniyas. — "A town ou the coast of the Piovince of Hims." (Yb., 112.) " Bulunyas," says Idrisi, '* lies 4 miles from the sea. It is a small but well-garrisoned city, having all sorts of fruits and grains of excellent quality. It is very conveniently situated." (Id., 22.) *' Bulunyas is a small town and fortress in a district lying on tlie coast-land of the Hims Province, and on the sea." (YaL, i. 729 ; Mar., i. 172.) "The city of l^ulunyas,*' says Diniashki, "is a town that dates from Hebrew, Greek and Roman days. It has streams coming from springs, and gardens that are among the wonders of the gardens of the coast towns ; for the borders of the gardens are Digitized by Google BURAK,-^BUSRA, 42S washed by the very waves of the sea, and there are no enclosing walls. The gardens are watered with sweet water. When one looks out on the sea from these gardens, the sea is as a floor of biue» with the gardens like a green border round it" (Dim., 209.) Bulunyas lies 4 miles from the sea \ thence to Al Markab (Id) is 8 miles; and to Jabalah (Id.) is 10 miles. BurAk. — "A village lying a league from Halab (Aleppo). Many of the people of Halab have told me there is here a place of prayer, to which if a person with a chronic sickness do go and pass the ni^ht, he will see (in slccj)) one \shu will say to him, ' I'hy healing will consist in so and such a thing.' Or, pt radvcn ture, he will see a person who will louch witli his hand the sick l^art. This belief is mut h sjiread among the people of Halab, but Allah alone knows if it be true.'' (Vak., i. 5:^7 : ^Tar., i. 136.) BuRj ( i HE Tower of) Ibx Kurt. — "A tower lying between the Lebanon, and Bulunyas, and Marakiyyah. 'Abd Allah ibn Kurt ath Thumali, the Governor of Hims, was slain here by the- Greeks." (Yak., i. 549; Mar., i. 139.) BuRj AR Rasas (The Lead Tower). — "A castle, possessing much territory, belonging to Halab, and not far from Antakiyyah." (Yak., i. 849; Mar. i. 159.) BuRKAH AjWAL.— "A placc in the JauMn." (Yak., i. 576; Mar., i. 146.) The name '* Burkah " is applied to a land lull of stones and sand ; and means *'a hard gravelly plain.'* BusAk.— "A pass ('Akabah) between the TSh (Desert of the Wanderings) and Ailah. It is thence you descend to Ailah.'' (Yak., i. 610; Mar., i. 152.) Busr. — "The name ot a villa^^'e in ihe llauran Province of !) niiascus. It is situated in a district called Al Lija (the Tra- ehonitis), and is at the difficult part of the road that passes beside Zurrah, the place which is vulgarly called Zura'ah (or Zuru'). There is here the shrine (Mash-had), as it is said of Joshua (Al Yusa') the prophet. Also the tomb of Shaikh al ilurairi, and his cloister." (Yak., i. 621 ; Mar., i. 153.) BusRA (BozRAH, OR Bostra). — "The capital of the Haurin Province." (Yb., 113.) Digitized by Google 426 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. According to Mukaddasi, Busift was noted for its vineyards.*' (Muk., 151.) " Busri/' says Y^kdt, ^* is the place whither the Prophet came (in his youth) with merchandise. It is the capital of the Haur&n, and celebrated among the ancient Arabs. It was conquered with the rest of the Haurlkn by KhAlid, in a.h. 13.'' (Yak.» i. 654 ; Mar., i. 157.) " Busri," writes Abu-1 Fida, " is the chief city of the HaurSn District. It is very ancient. It is all l?uilt of black stoiu-, and its i)Uikiings arc ruufcd with the same. It has a market aiul a Friday Mosque, and lies in the lands of the Ikmi j'a/arah and the l>ani Murrah. and other tribes. There is here a castle, very strongly built, soniewhnt resembling th^it of Damascus. There are gardens round the town. It lies 4 marches from Damascus, and alx>ut 16 miles to the east of it is Sarkhad.'* (A. F., 253.) " Busra/' says Ibn Batutah, **is a small city, where the (Makkah) caravan stays four days. The great Mosque here is built on the s])ot where the Prophet alighted when he came hither." (I. B., i- 254 ) BuTNAN. — " The name of a Wadi (valley) between Manbij and Halab, a short march from either dty. It has running streams and many villages. The chief town is Buza'ah (see above, p. 406). This place, to distinguish it from others, is called Butnin Habtb, after Habib ibn Maslamah al Fihri." (Yak., i. 664; ii. 200 ; Mar., i- «59 ) Al Buvaidah. — " The name of a spring in the desert between Halal) and Tadmur (I\ilmyra). ' (\ ak., i. S05 ; Mar. i. 193.) I'tic name i.^ a climiniiiive of Al Baida, the "White S|»ring." Dauik. — "A village of the 'Azaz Di.-^lnct l>ing 4 leagues from Halab (AleppD). Near it is a green and j>leasant meadow, where the Omayyad troops encamped, when they made the celebrated expt (liii<jn against Al Massissah, which was to have been continued even to the walls of Constantinople. There is here the tomb of the Khalif Sulaiman ibn 'Abd al Malik, who led the above expedition." (Yak., ii. 513; Mar., i. 381.) Daim'i.. — " One of the villages of Ar Kamlah." (Yak., ii. 549 ; Mar., i. 390.) Digitized by Google DA B URl Y YA H.-^DA IR'BALAD, 427 DabOriyyah. — A small town near Tabariyyah, in the Jordan Province.** (Yak., ii. 546 ; Mar., i. 3S9.) The Biblical Daberath, on the western slope of Mount Tabor. Ad Dafn. — "Said to be a place in Syria." (Yak., ii. 579 ; Mar., i. 405 ) DAniK. — "A sprint,' in the Bain as Sirr of the two Jiaika (^Ard Balkain) territories of Syria." (Yak., iii. 459; Mar. ii. 177.) Dair. — A convent, or monastery, where monks dwell. Hair Auax. A village of the Ghautah of Damascus." (Yak., IL 639 ; Mar., i. 422.) Dair al 'AdhakI.- " Outside Halab is a place of this name, among the gardens of the city ; but there is no monastery here nowy though perchance there was one of old times." (Yak., ii. 680 ; Mar., i. 436.) Dair Ayya, — »' A monastery in Syria." (Yak., ii. 645 ; Mar., i. 424.) Dair AvyOb (The Monastery of Job). — "A village of the Haur&n, in the Damascus Province. This is where Job dwelt, and where Allah tried him. There is here a sirring, where (at Allah's command — ^sec KurSn xxxviii. 4 1 ) he struck with his feet the rock that was over it (and the water gushed out). Job's tomb also is here." (Yak., ii. 645 ; Mar., i. 424.) 1 his place is still much visited as a shrine, and lies not far from Dair Ka'antal.— "A monastery, lying less than a mile from Jasiyah, which is of the Hims District, and JCisiyah itself lies a day's march from Hiins, on ihe Damascus road. This Dair is on the left of one going towards Damascus. There are here won- drous remains, and among them a portico (uzaj), the doors of which have images of the prophets cut and sculptured thereon. There is also a temple {haikat), paved with marble, so tliat the foot cannot keep firm on it (for slipperiness). Also is seen here a picture of (the Virgin) Mary, on a wall, and when thou tumest aside, lo ! her eyes follow thee." (Yak., u. 645 ; Mar., Dair BalAd. — *'A place of the dependencies of Halab Digitized by Google 428 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. (Aleppo). It overlooks a green plain, and there are monks here who own the fields." (Yak., ii. 648 ; Mar., i. 426.) This was in the thirteenth centuiy. Dair al BallOt (The Convent of the Oar). — ** A village of the district round Ar Ramlah." (Yak., ii. 64S; Mar., i 426.) Dair Bassak. — "This is a fortress, and not a Christian monastery, and it stands near Antakiyyah, in the Halab Province^'* (\ ak., ii. 647 ; Mar., i. 425.) Dair Baumjs (Monastery of St. Paul). — "Dair Baulus is in the neii^hhourhoud of Ar Ramlah." (Vak., ii. 649 ; Mar., i. 426. ) Dair 1>awa\n'A. "A convent in the (thautah of Damascus. It lies in the })leasantest of spots, and was buili hy the Christians in ancient times. They even say it was built in the days of the Messiah, or shortly after. It is a small convent, and has but few monks living there." (Y^k., ii. 649 ; Mar., i. 426.) Written in the thirteenth century. Dair Bishr. — *'A convent which stands near Hajira in the (vhautah of Damascus." (VAk., ii. 647 ; Mar., i. 425.) Dair al Bukht (The Convent of the Bactrian Camel). — " A convent lying 2 leagues from Damascus. It was anciently called Dair Mtkhiil (the Convent of St Michael), but when the Khalif 'Abd al Malik ibn Marw&n took the habit of keeping a Bukht, or (Bactrian) Turkish camel ready saddled here, the name came to be altered 'Ali ibn 'Abd Allah ibn 'Abb&s— Allah accept him ! — had a small garden here where he used to take his pleasure.*" (\'ak., ii. 646, 70 J , Mai., 1. 4J5, 441.) Dair Busra, or Dair Natkav. — "The monastery at Busra, the capital of the Hauran ; wlicie Bahird the monk lived, who related the histories to the Prophet. It is a large morrastery, and very wonderfully built." {Yik.^ ii. 647, 704; Mar., i. 425, 441.) Dair Fakhl r. — " It is here that the Messiah received baptism at the hand of John the Baptist." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 28, v.) The ruins of tliis convent are at the present day known as Dair Mir Yuhann£ Idrisl, as early 351152, writes: "On the banks of the Jordan stands a magnificent church called after St. John, where the Greek monks dwell" (Id., 8.) Digitized by Google DAtR FUTRUS AND DAIR BAULUS.^DAJR KANVN. 429 Dair FakhOr, on the Jordan, is the place where the Messiah was baptized by John the Baptist." (Yak., ii. 683 ; Mar., i. 436.) Dair Futrus and Dair Baulus (The Convents of SS. Peter AND Paul). — "Two monasteries,'* writes Yikftt in 1225, "lying outside Damascus, in the Ghautah. They He in a beautiful si^ot, where there are fine gardens and trees and water. This place is in the neighbourhood of the Bani Hantfah (lands)." (Yak., ii. 683 ; Mar., i. 437.) Dair FIk.— " A convent behind 'Akabah (the Pass of) Fik, which is the pass leading down (from the JaulSn) to the Ghaur (of ihc Jordan). I' roiii the summit of the i)ass you can sec across the lake to Tabariyyah. The convent stands between the pass and the lake on the niouutain slope above the pass ; the place is rut out of the rock, and is btill (thirteenth century) inhabited by monks. It is fre(iuentcd by travellers, and is held in much veneration by the Christians. The poet, Abu Xawwns, who passed by this way, has mentioned the monastery in a poem he wrote on a youth he saw here." (Yak., ii. 684 ; NIar., i. 437.) The ruins of the monastery stiU exist; see /au/dn, by G. Schumacher, p. 180. Dair Hafir. — "A village lying between Halab and B^lis." (Vak., ii. 653 ; Mar., i. 427.) Dair Hind. — " One of the villages of Damascus. It lies in the Iklim (or district) of Bait al Ab^r.** (Yak, ii. 710; Mar., i. 44^ ) Dair HanIna.— " A place in the neighbourhood of Damascus." (Yak., ii. 350; Mar., i. 325.) Datr Hashivan. — "In the neighbourhood of Halab, in the 'ANVasiin rrovinee. " (\'ak, ii. 655 ; Mar., i. 427.) Dair Ishak (Isaac's Convknt). — "This lies between Hims and Salami>7ah, and is a most pleasant and beautiful place. Near the village is a large domain called Jadar." (Yak., ii. 643; Mar., T. 423.) 1>air Kais.— "In the Ghautah of Damascus, in the Khaulan (district)." (Yak., ii. 690 ; Mar., i. 43S.) Dair RanOn. — "in the neighbourhood ol Damascus." (Yak., ii. 684 ; Mar., i. 436-) It lies east of 'Ain Fijah. Digitized by Google 430 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Daik Khai ms ok Hair Sai iha. — " A convciu at Damascus, 0})|>osiic the lull) al lar.idis ((laic of the Gardens). It is called after Kh.ilul ibn al Walitl, who encamped here at the inking of Damascus. Ibn al Kaih, however, says the place lies a mile from IJab ash Sharki (the Eastern (intc of Damascus)." (Yak., ii. 657, 674, and V. 20 ; Mar., i. 428, 433.) D.MR AL Khili- — "A place near the Yarmuk (river Hiero- max), where the Muslims were camped on the day of the great battle (there against the Greeks in a.d, 634 ; see p. 54)." (Yak., ii. 65S; Mar., i. 428.) Dair al Khisyan (The Convent of thb Eunuch). — " In the Ghaur of the Balki, between Damascus and Jerusalem. It is called also Datr al Ghaur. It is named Dair al Khisyin because when the Khalif Sulaim^ ibn 'Abd al Malik was once stopping here, he heard a man making boast of the beauty of one of his (the Khalif's) slave-girls. The story is too long to relate, but the conclusion is, that the Khalif castrated htm, and from this incident the roonasteiy takes its name." (Yak., ii. 657 ; Mar., i. 428.) Dair al Khuxasirah. — "At Khunasirah, to the south ol Halab." (\'ak., ii. 657 ; Mar., i. 428.) Dair Mar M.Vi^th. — "A convent," writes YakOt in 1225. "on the western bank of the Euphrates, not far from Manbij. It is a most i)leasant ]>lacc, only that there are now but few buildings left standing here. The (Hadawin) Arabs have a license of protection over it. There live here a company of monks, who cultivate the lands round, growing fields of beans and other crops. In its chapel is a wonderful and beautiful picture, mentioned by the poet Al Kindi." (Yak., ii. 700 ; Mar., i. 440.) Dair Markus (Convent of St. Mark). — *'In the district of Al Jazr of the Halab Province." (Yak., ii. 699 ; Mar., i. 440.) Dair MArat MARirmk,—" A monastery," writes Y&kAt, ** that stood on the slope of Jabal Jaushan, overlooking the city of Halab and Al 'Awaj&n. It is of small size. It was also called Al Bai'atain (the Two Churches), because it contained two of these edifices, one for the men, and another for the women. Digitized by Google DAIR MAS'HAL^ OR MASJAL.—DAIR MURRAN. 431 There is no trace of these now (thirteenth century), but in their place is a Masii-had (or oratory), recently buih to the honour of Husain, the son of 'Ah, who was seen here by certain of the Shi'ahs. This shrine existed in Saif ad Daulah's tirne» who spent much money here, and raised some fine buildings round it" (Yak., ii. 691 ; Mar., i. 439.) Dair Mas-hal, or Masjal. — ''A place between Hims and Ba'albakk. It is mentioned in the histories of the conquest.'' (Yak., ii. 702 , Masjal^ in Mar, i* 441.) Dair MImas. — "A convent,*' writes YlUcOt in 1225, "lying • between Damascus and Hims, on the Nahr Mtmsb (the upper waters of the Orontes). There is here a Mash-had (or oratory) of the Christians. It is a most pleasant spot According to what the Christians say, here is seen the tomb of one of the disci['les of Jcsub- peace be on Him! The monks say the lomb cures sick persons." (Yak., ii. 702 ; Mar., i. 441.) Dair Mu(;han. — "At Hiiiis," writes Yakut in 1225, " lyinj; among the ruins nf ihe Bani as Simt {|!iarter, and under the hill called after them. It is a monastery much honoured by the Christians, and of great renown. I here are numerous monks here. The earth of this place is made into seals, used as talismans against scorpion-stings ; these are carried into all countries (see above, p. 353). The C^hristians have also a place near here which they hold in high veneration." (Yak., ii. 702 ; Mar., i. 441.) Dair al Mohalla.— " A convent near Al Masslssah, on the banks of the Jaihin River. It overlooks gardens and lands bear- ing fruit-trees and flowers." (Yak., ii. 695 ; Mar., i. 440.) Dair Muhammad. — "In the neighbourhood of Damascus, It is named after Muhammad, the son of the Khalif Al Walid ibn 'Abd al Malik. It lies near Al Manihah, of the Ikllm (District) of Bait al AbAr." (Yak., ii. 695 ; Mar., i. 439.) Dair MurrAn (i). — "A monastery near Damascus," writes Yakfit, in 1225, "on a hill owrluuking fickls of saflVon and many beautiful gardens. It is built of plaster, and the greater ]'art of it is paved with rolourcd stones. It is a large monastery, and there are in it many monks. In its chapel {haikal) is a wondt:rful picture Digitized by Google 43» PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, of c\(iui>itc workmanship. All round the monastery arc irces.* (Vilk., i. 696 ; Mar., i, 440.) Dair Murkan (2). — "A hill overlooking Kafar Tab, near Ma'arrah. Near here, as it is said, is the tomb of the Khalif 'Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz, which is still greatly visited at the present time (thirteenth century).'' {Idem,) Dair an Naki'rah. — *'A convent on a hill near Ma'arrah. They say there is here the tomb of the Khalif 'Omar ibn *Al)d al 'Aziz, but the truth is, the tomb is at Dair Sam'to, as will be mentioned below (p. 433, and see above, Dair Murr&n). There is shown here the tomb of the Shaikh Abu Zakariy)*ah Yahya al Maghribf, which is much visited/* (VSL, ii. 704 ; Mar., i. 441.) Dair Rumam!n (The Convent of the Pomegranates), or Dair as Saban. — '*A convent lying between Halab and Anta- kiyyah. It overlooks the plain of Sarmad, and was of old a large and fine monastery, but it is now (1225) a ruin, though some parts still remain standing. The name Dair a> Saban they explain as signifying in the Syrian tongue ' 1 )air ash Shaikh," ihe Convent of the Shaikh." H ak,, ii. 662, 606 ; Mar., i. 430.) Dair .\k Rusakah, — "A convent in the ritv of Rus.itaii Hishani," writes Yakut in 1225, '* on the western bank of the Euphrates, and in the desert, a march from Rakkah. I, Yakut, have seen this monnstery, and it is a wonder of beauty as regards its building. I have heard that tiie Rhalif Hishani built his city to be near this monastery, and that it existed before his time* There are monks in it and religious men. It stands in the middle of the town of Rus&fah." (Yik., iL 660 ; Mar., i. 429.) Dair Sabur. — '* A place in the neighbourhood of Damascus, in the Khauldn Iklim (District). It was of old inhabited by the families of the Omayyad Khatifs." (Y4k., ii. 666; Mar., i. 431.) Dair as SalIba (i). — See above, p. 430, Dair Kh&lid. Dair as SaUba (2). — ^"A village of Halab (Aleppo), in the district of Al Ahass." (Mar. in Y^k., v. 20.) Dair ash SfiAiKH, or Dair Tall 'Azaz. — " In the 'A/a/ District ; it is a pleasant town lying some five leagues from Habb." (Yak., ii, 673 ; Mar., i. 433.) Digitized by Google DAIR SHAMWIL, OR MAR SAMWIL,^DAIR SliPAN, 433 Dair Shamwii^ or Mar SamwIl (Tjie Conve^jt of Samuel). — Mukaddasi describes this place in the following anec dote : '* I have heard my maternal uncle, 'Abd Allah ibn ash Shawd, relate that a certain Sultan, having a mind to take possession of the Dair (or monastery) of Shamwti — ^which is at a village lying about a league from Jerusalem — spoke to the owner thereof, say- ing, 'Describe now to me thy country.' And the man answered him : ' My village — ^may AUah give thee aid — is of the heavens, lying far above the lowlands ; poor in soft herbage, rich in oats ; hard bread do you eat there, for of crops you enjoy no profitable return ; tares gain the upper hand, and the almond even is bitter ; the husbandman sows a bushel of com, and reaps but the same ; this Holy Place, however, is well provided with pits.' And ilie Sultan cried : 'Be gone with thee ! for we will liave naught to do with ihy village.'" (Muk., 188.) This is the village called at the present day Nabi Samwil, lying north of Jerusalem. " MAr Samwil, or Maran Samwil, ' says \';»ki'il, " is a small town in the neighbourhood of Jenisalem. Mtrr in Syriac signifies Al Kass, ' the priest,' and Hamwil is the name of a man of the Doctors of the Law." (Y4k., iv. 391 ; Mar., iii. 29.) Dair Sim'An (i) (Convent of St. Si.mkon).— Mas'ftdi, writing in the year 943 a.d., states that ** The Khalif 'Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz died in the year loi (719), and was buried at Dair Sim'an, in the Hims Province, near Kinnasrfn. His tomb is still to be seen here, and is much visited by the townsmen and Badawtn Arabs. And it was not desecrated, as were the tombs of the other Omayyads (at the accession of the Abbasides)." (Mas., v. 416.) " Dair Sim*&n/' says YUkflt,; in the thirteenth century, " is a monastery in the neighbourhood of Damascus, a most pleasant place, with gardens and habitations and palaces. It is said that the Klialii Oiiiar ibn 'Abd al 'A/i/ was buried here, but the tomb has been ruined, and nothing now remains." The author of the Marasid, however, writing in 1300, remarks on the foregoing : " It is well known that the Khalif Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz died in the neighbourhood of Halab. He had camped there, and he died (between Halab and) Al Ma'arrah. Near Ma'arrah an Nu'roin is a tomb known to be his, and very celebrated. It lies 38 Digitized by Google PALESTtSB UNDER THE MOSLEMS, dose to the village of An Nakimh, and there was a monastery here, but it is now ruined. I asked several of the people here, and they told me that the Khalif 'Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz was buried at Dair an Naktiah. Fuitber, Dair Sim'ftn is another monastery near by, but perhaps the monasteiy at An Naktcah ivas formerly called by this name. Sim'ftn, Irom whom it takes its name, is Sham'fin as Sa£l (Simon the Pmie), and perchance he built this monastery, and then it was called by his name." " Or else,** says Yakut, '* this Sim'&n was one of the saints of the Christians. After Sim'&n are named a number of monasteries: as, for instance, the following.** (Yak., i. 671 ; Mar, i. 432.) Dair Sim'an (2) (at St. Simeon's Harbour). — " In the neighbourhood of Antioch, and lying on the sea. Ibn Hutl n describes this about tlie year 443 (1051) in his Epistle as follows r 'Outside Antakiyyah is Dair Sim'an, whic.li, with its outlying grounds, is equal in size to half the city of the Khalifs at Bagdad. The revenues of the lands yearly amount to several Kintars (quintals) of gold and silver, and they say the yearly income is 400,000 Dinars (;^2oo,ooo). I 'rom this place you go Up into the Jabal al Lukkam.'" (Yak., ii. 672.) Dair Sim'.an (3). — "Another monastery of this same name is in the neighbourhood of Halab. Between the Jabal Bani 'Ulaitn and Al Jabal Al A'll" (YIUc., ii. 671.) DAtR AT TaJALLA (MONASTERY OF THE TRANSFIGURATION), OR Dair at TCr. — *'The convent on Jabal at TOr (Mount Tabor). Here, as it is said, Jesus — peace be upon Him !— was transfigured in the presence of His Disciples." (Y&k., ii. 649; Mar., i. 426.) It is also called Dair at TOr (The Convent of At TOr or Tabor), and lies between Tabariyyah (Tiberias) and Al I^jjGn (Legio), overlooking the Ghaur (of the Jordan) and the Marj al KajjCin (the Meadow of Al Laijtni, the Plain of Esdraelon). There is a plenteous spring of clear water gushing out at the monastery. The l)uilding stands on the south side (of the summit), and IS built of stone. Round about it are numerous vineyards, from the produce of which they make wine. This At Tiir (Tabor) is a high mountain, with a broad base and a round top, Digitized by Google DAIR run 61NA.—DAMUN. 435 which stands separate from all the siinounding hiUs. There is only one road l^ingup (to the monastery). Here, according to their saying, the Messiah was transfigured before His Disciples, after that He had come up thither in order that He might make them witness the transfiguration. And they knew Him. The people also from all sides sought Him, and remained there, and drank (of the wine). The place has a fine view, and overlooks Ta!)ariyyah, and the I-ake, and the surrounding country, also Al L.ijjun.' (^\ ak., ii. 675 ; Mar., i. 434.) 'I he word 7//rmeans "a high mount," and hence is ajijihcd to any very conspicuous hill. At THr^ " The Mountain/' is, generally speaking, Sinai. Dair Tlr Sina (The Convknt of Mount Sinai). — "This monastery is also called the Church of At Tur (Ranisah at Tiir). It stands on the summit of Mount Sinai, and is the place where the Fire shone forth to Moses before he lost consciousness. It is built of black stone^ and Stands on the flank of the mountain. I he breadth of the walls is seven ells, and it has three iron gates. To the west of it is a fine gatet before which a stone is set. This, when they wish, they can raise up. Thus, when any (enemy) arrives there, and is directed thereto, he finds the entrance shut. No one can then discover the place of the gate. Within the monasteiy is a spring of water, and there is also one outside. The Christians say there is here a fire of the kind of the New Fire which is at Jerusalem (see above, p. 308). This is lighted at the begin- ning of every night. It is white, and of feeble heat, and does not bum, but they are able to kindle the lamps therefrom. This monastery is inhabited by monks, and the pilgrims sojourn here who come to visit (Sinai)." (Yak., ii. 675 ; Mar., i. 434.) Dair at. Wai.Id. — know not where exactly this convent is, but it is said to be in Syria." (\ alv., ji. 705 ; Mar., i. 442.) * iJAiR Zakka. — "A village of the Ghautah land round Damascus." (Yak., ii. 665 ; Mar., i. 431.) Da'iyah.— " An Iklim (or District) in the Ghautah of Damascus." (Yak., ii. 338 ; Mar., i. 386.) DamOn. — Visited by Nasir in 1047, he writes : " From Birwah (three miles east of Acre) we went on to DamQn where there is a small cavern. Here I made visitation, for they say it is the 28—2 Digitized by Google 436 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. sepulchre of Dhul Kifl— peace be upon him i'' (N. Kh.^ 14.) The prophet Dhul Kifl, according to Muslim tradition, was the son of the patriarch Job. DAnA. — " A village near Halab (Aleppo) in the 'Awisim Pro> vince, on the slopes of Jabal Lubndn (Lebanon). It is a very ancient place. Near it is a large platform (dikkaA\ as wide as a Matdan (or horse-course), cut in the hillside, square, and levelled. At its centre is a dome, within which is a tomb, as of one of the ancient 'Adites ; but of whom it is not known." (Yak., ii. 540 ; Mar., i. .^86.) Dana, lying on iliC road l)etween Aleppo and AnUuch, is cele- brated for its cariuus necropolis. Among other rock-cut tombs is a small blunted pyramid, said to date from the fourth century, which is probably the building to which V'aklit refers. (See Baedeker, Syrin, p. 574.) DANiiH, OR Danivath. — "A town of the Halab District, lying between Aleppo and Kafar Tib." (Yak., ii. 540; Mar., Danwah. — " A village of Hims. The tomb of 'Auf ibn Malik, one of the Companions of the Prophet, is seen here." (Yak., ii. 611 ; Mar., i. 412.) Rabad ad Darain (The Suburb op thr Two Habitations). — ** One of the suburbs of Halab (Aleppo)." (Yak., ii. 537 ; Mar., i. 386.) Darayvah, or DArayva. — Ibn Jubair writes in his Dtaiy : ''We left Damascus on Thursday, the 5th of the month JumSdi II., which is the 13th September (1185X with a great caravan of merchants, who were going with merchandise tu Acre, and that night reached Darayvah, a village belonging to Damascus, and about a league and a hall distant." (I. J., 302.) ** D^rayya," says Yakut, " is a large village belonging to Damascus, in the Ghautah." (Yak., ii. 536 ; Mar., i. ^Ss.^ DakhasAk (TrRHi.ssKL OK THE Crusades). — "A village in the Kinnasrin District, with a high t-a'^tle, where there are springs and gardens. The surrounding country is very fertile. At Darbasak is a Friday Mosque. To the east lie broad meatlows covered with green crops, through which the river called the Nahral Aswad Digitized by Google BARKUSH,^DHANABA H, 437 flows. Darbasik lies north, and somewhat east, of Baghrfis, and about lo miles distant. East of Darbas&k is Yagfaid, about a march distant. It is a town whose inhabitants are Christians, and mosdy fishermen. The road from (Southern) Syria to Darbasftk and Baghiis passes through YaghriL" (A. F., 261.} DarkOsh. — ** A fortress near Antikiyyah, in the 'Aw^im Pro- vince.** (Yak., ii. 569 ; Mar., i. 399.) BuBj A!> Dakrajivyah. — " Tliis tower (Bur/) stands above the Bab Tuiii.i (Gate of St. Thunias) at 1 ianiascirs. It was called after Ibn Darraj, a freedman of the Khalif Mu'awiyah. He was a s( rihe of (GovcrnnieiU) episile>." (Yak., ii. 561 ; Mar., i. 396.) Ad Darum (Daroma of thk Cki^ ade^). — Miikatldasi, in 985, states that Ad Darum was " tlie name of the territory round Bait Jibrii (Eleutheropolis)." (Muk., 174.) "Ad UarAm," says YakQi, "is a castle that you pass after leaving Ghazzah on the road towards Egypt. It stands about a league from the sea, which you can see from thence. It was dis- mantled by Saladin when he took possession of this place, with the remainder of the coast towns, in 584 (i 188)." (Yak., ii. 525 ; Mar., i. 385.) The Crusading historians — William of Tyre, and Jacque de Vitry — ^imagined the name Daroma, Ad D&rOm, to mean I>omus Graeconim, deriving it from Ddr or JR6m, which has that signification. This is a mistake ; Darom in Hebrew means the ** South Countiy.** The name exists at the present day as I )eiran. DarCma. — "One ot the cities of T.ot. in the Filastin IVovince, or, maybe, merely a variation of Ad l>aruai, given above." (Yak,, ii. 525 ; Mar., i. 385.) Dathin.— "-A territory near (iha//ah, in the i"ilastin Province. A battle took place here in the year 12 (633), between the (Ireeks and the Muslims, and the Muslims conquered." (Yak., ii. 514 ; Mar., i. 381.) DhadhIkh. — ''A village in the District of Halab (Aleppo), near Sarmin." (Yak., ii. 716 : Mar., i. 445.) Dhanabah (i). — "One of the Districts of Damascus." (Yak., ii. 724 ; Mar., i. 449.) Digitized by Google 4j8 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Dhakabah (2). — ** A place in the Balka PEOvince." (Idem,) DhAt ar Ruhm (Possessed of Lances). — A village of Syria." (Yak, iL 816 ; Mar., i 4S2.) DhibyAn. — ** A frontier village of the Jordan Province, in the part towards the Balkd." (Yak., ii. 717; Mar., i. 445.) Modem D!b&n, the Dibon of Numbers xxi. 30, where the celebrated Moabite Stone was discovered. Adh Dhinab, — "A place in Syria." (Mar., i. 448.) DhO DafIk (The Bandld). — "A mounLain in Syria." (Vak., iii. 475 ; Mar., ii. 184.) DhCt-l F.\k\\ ain. — * The name of certain mountains in Syria.' (\ ak., iii. 886 ; Mar., ii. 350.) Ad Dikkah (TifE Platform). — " A place outside Damascus in the Ghautah ; but Allah alone knows in which direction." (Yak., ii. 581 j Mar., i. 406.) Ad Dim as (The Crypi).- " A high place in the centre of the town of Ascalon, near the J4mi' Mosque, to which yon must ascend. There are many pillars here." (Yak., ii. 712; Mar., i. 443. See also above, p. 368.) DiyAf. — ^"A village of Syria, though some count it as of Meso- potamia. Its people are Nabatbseans of Syria. It is also said to be of the Haurin District, near Sarkhad." (Yak., ii. 637 ; Mar., i. 420.) DObAm. — "A village in the Jabal 'Amihh (Mountains of Galilee), in Syria, near Sdr (Tyre)." (Y&k., ii 614 ; Mar., L 413.) DulCk. — "A small town of the 'Awftsim Province in the Halab District" (Ylik., ii. 583 ; Mar., i. 407.) Dumair. — " One of the villages of the Ghautah (Land round) Damascus. It faces the entrance of the Thaniyyat al 'Ukab (the Eagle's Pass). In the mosque here is a tall palm-tree." (Yak., iii. 481 ; Mar., ii. 186.) DuMMAR. — "'Akabah Dummar (the Pass of Dummar), over- liang'^ the Ghautah of Damascus on the Ba'albakk side, north of the city." (Y4k., ii. 587 ; Mar., i. 408.) Ad DtiJL — " A vilbge near Sumaisat (on the Euphrates)." (Ydk., ii. 616 ; Mar., i. 414.) FadhayA. — A village of Damascus." (YIUl, iii. 859 ; Mar., iL 338.) Digitized by Google FAHU—AL FARADIS, 439 Fahl (i) (Pella). — town in the Jordan Pmvinoe. Its population is half Greek, half Arab." (\'b., 115; written in 891 A.D.) "Fahl, or Kihl," says Yakut, "is the place in Syria where the great battle was fought between the Muslims and ilio Greeks in the first year after Damascus was taken. Of the Greeks So,ooo were slain. The battle is known as the * Day of Fahl,' or the • Day of Baisan,' also as Yaufn ar Radaghah^ *the Day of Mire.**' Yakut adds : " I think Fahl is a foreign name, for I find no meaning for it in the Arabic tongue." (Y4k.» iii. 853 \ Mar., ii. 336.) Fahl (2). — " The name also of a mountain belonging to the Jabal Hudhail. From this mountain runs down a wddt, which is called Shajwab, the lower part of which is in the tenitory of the Bani Omayyah, and lies in the Jordan Province near Tabar* i37ah." (Y&k., iii. 853 ; Mar., ii, 336.) FaltOm. — A fortress built by Solomon, son of David — ^peace be on them both T (YIUl, iii. 908 ; Mar., ii. 360.) Ai. Famduk (i). — "A place in the ThughQr (or Frontier Fort- resses), near Al Massissah. The word Fanduk in Syria is equivalent to Khftn (or Camvansetai)." (Yak., iii. 918 ; Mar., ii. 365.) Fanduk (2). — "Also the name of a village near Damascus, in which there is a I anduk (or Caravanserai)." ^.\iar. in Yak., V. 26.) Al Faradhivvah. — "A large village in which is a mosque, where they preach the Friday sermon. There are found here grapes, and vineyards abound. The water is plentiful, and the country round is pleasant." (Muk., 162.) Situated between Acre and l iberias. Al FaradIs (1). — "The plural of FirdOs, meaning The Para- dises or Gardens. It is a Greek (or, rather, a Persian) word adopted into Arabic. At Damascus at the present day there is a laige quarter of the dty, after which one of the town gates is called, which goes by the name of Farftdis. llie people of Syria very often call vineyards and gardens by the name of FirdAs." (Ydk., iii, 862 ; Mar., ii. 340.) Digitized by Google 440 PALESTINE US DEE THE MOSLEMS, Al Fabadis (2)1 — ^*'A place near Hakb, lying between the Plain of Khtisaf and the Lands of the Bam Tai, in the Kinnasdn District" (Yak^ iii S63 : Mar., ii. 340.) FaradIs (3). — Nasir-i-Khusraa writes m hts Diary: ** A couple of Icaguc-s from Jtru:viiem is a j'lare dicrc are four \-illai;es, and there is here a spring of water, with nuiiu rous garde:> md or^ hard^, and it is called Faradis lor the Paradise-^), on art ount of trie i^^. : <.<( the spot.'* (X. Kh., 53.) This is the anrient Hem/iMjm ii. the W^di UrLis, at the present dny known as '* Frank Mountain. 1 he word Ur/ds is probably a corruption of Horius^ which has the same meaning as Firdiis. Faran AhrCn (Paran of Aaron). — "This district lies 40 miles from Al Kulztim, and along the sea<mst. The city of Faiin stands at the bottom of a gulf (Z^). It is a small town where certain of the Aiahs of those parts have their camping* ground. Over against Faran is a place where the sea has formed a Iny, and beside it is a mountain of very hard rocL The waters suige round this and endrcle it, and when the winds rise» the passage theieof is diflicult, and no one can accomplish it, except with great effort. Travellers are frequently last there, unless Allah save and guard them. According to the common saying, this is the sea wherein Pharaoh — Allah curse him I — was drowned.'' (Id., 2.) "Faran," says \'akut, "is the place mentioned in the Books of Moses in the words ( 1 )cut. xxxiii 2): 'The I>ord came from Sinai, and rose up from Seir unto them : He shined forth from Mount Paran." Sa'ir (Scir) is the mountain of Filastin where the Gosfjels were revealed to Jesus." (Vnk.. iii. 834 : Mar., ii. 328.) Farban \. — *• One of the villages of 'Askalan (Ascalon)." (Vdk., iii. 867 ; Mar., ii. 341.) Faya. — " A large district (Kurah) between Manbij and Ha1ah. It belongs to Manbij, and lies to the south of it near the Wddl Butn&n. There are many populous villages here, and gardens* and many waters." (Yik., iii. 849 ; Mar., ii. 334.) Al FtlrfAH. — " A laige village in the neighbourhood of Halab. From it the convent called Dair Ffl'ah takes its name." (Yfik., iii. 923 ; Mar., ii. 368.) Digitized by Google AL FULAU,—GUAZZAU. 441 Al Fd'ah,'' says Abu-l Fida, is a celebrated town, situated, as also Ma'arrab Ik^rfn and Sarrotn, in the Plain of Aleppo. Al FA'ah lies a day*s inarch south of Halab. On this plain are grown quantities of olive and fig and other trees." (A. F., 231.) Al FOlah (The Bean).— *' A town of the Filastfn Province." (Yak., iii. 924 ; Mar., ii. 368.) This is the Crusading Castle of i ana. It lies botwocn the modern /eia in (Jczreel) and Nazareth. Al Funau>ik ( The Lhtlk Fanduk, or Car w an^erai). — " One of the Dependencies of Halab. It is called at the present day Tall as Sultan (the Hill of the Sultan) ; between it and Aleppo is a distance of 5 leagues." (Yak., iii. 920 ; Mar., ii. 366. ) FuNAiDiK Damayah. — "A Village belonging to and lying among the hills of Nabulus." (Mar. in Yak., v. 26.) FuRKULUs. — " A spring near Salamiyyah in Syria. The name is foreign, nor Arabic." (\ ak., iii. 881 ; Mar., ii. 348.) Ghaba. — "A place in Syria." (Y4k., ill 770 ; Mar., ii. 300.) GhabAghib. — A village in the nearer districts of the Haurin, 6 leagues from Damascus.'' (Y&k., iii. 771 ; Mar., ii. 300.) Grainah. — ^'^ A place in Syria." (Yak., iii. 832 ; Mar., iL 327.) GhAmiyyah. — *' A village near Hims.'* (Yak., iii. 769 ; Mar., ii. 300.) Al Ghamr. — "There is water here, and a palm-grove; all round it lies a ^d waste, but when you dig near here, there gushes forth sweet water in plenty. Al Ghamr lies 2 marches north of Aiiuh, aiul from Al Cihamr to At Tulail is 2 marches likewise." (Milk... 253.) In "(Ihamr" M. ClermontGanncau wouid see the name of Gomorrah. It is marked 'Ain Ghamr on the maps. Ghasvlah.— " .\ caravan station and a Khan, between Hims and Kara, lying i day &om Hims." (Yak., iii. 802 ; Mar., ii. 313) Ghathah. — " A village of the HauriUi of the Damascus Pro- vince." (Yak., iii., 775 ; Mar., ii. 302.) GhAwah. — " A mountain, or, on other authority, a village, of Syria ; and it is said to be a village near Halab.** (Yak., iii. 770 ; Mar, il 30a) Ghazzah (Gaza). — A city of Palestine on the sea-coast. It Digitized by Google 44* PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Stands on the limit of the Third Climate. There is here the grave of Hashim ibn *Abd Mandf." (Yb., 1 1 7.) " Ghaxzah," say Al Istakhri and Ibn Haukal, " is one of the last towns belonging to Palestine towards Egypt, in the Jiiir Country* The tomb of Hfishim ibn 'Abd ManAf is here, and it was the birthplace of Muhanunad ibn Idris ash Shi*fi1 (the Great Doctor of the Law) ; he is buried at Fustit (OM Duro). Here^ too^ he who was afterwards the Khalif 'Omar ibn Al Khattib^ in the days of ignorance, grew rich; for this place was a great market for the people of the Hijjds.** (Is., 58; I. H., 113; copied by A. F., 239.) "Ghazzah," writes Mukaddasi, "is a large town lying on the high-road uUu Egypt, on the border of the desert. The city stands not far from the sea. There is here a Ijcautiful mosque, also to be been is the monument of the Khali t ( 'mar ; further, this city was the birthplace of (the great Traditionist) Ash-Shafi'i, and it possesses the tomb of Hashim ibn 'Abd Manaf (the great- grandfather of the Prophet)." (Muk., 174). "Ghazzah," says Idrisi in 1154, "is to-day very populous, and is in the hands of the Greeks (Crusaders). The port of Ghazzah is called Tfda (or Taida)." (Id., 4.) Yakftt and the author of the Marasid add nothing to the foregoing about Ghazzah. (YiUL, iii., 799 ; Mar., ii. 312.) Abu-1 Fidi, after quoting Istakhri, says (thirteenth century) : "Ghazzah is a city of medium size, possessing gatdens by the sea-shore. There are here a few palm-trees, also many firuitful vines. Between it and the sea are sand dunes, which lie beside the gardens. There is a small castle over Ghazzah." (A. F., 239-) Ghazzah was visited by Ibn Batutah in 1355. He speaks of it in his Diary as the first town of Syria coming from Eg)'pt. ** It is large and populous, and has many mosques, liui there are no walls round it.* There was here of old a fine Jami' Mosque ; but the one at present used was built by the Annr Jawali : this is well built, and has a white marble pulpit" (I, B., L 113.) * The mlb w«re disiaaiitled after Richasd- Cceor de Lion's peice with Saladin in 1193. Digitized by Google GHUNTHUK.—AL HADATH, 443 From Ghazzah to 'Askalftn LH.)» is less than i march, or (Id) 3o miles; to Damascus (Yak.), 8 marches; to Kafh (Is., I.H., Muk., Id), X march, or (1. Kh.) x6 miles ; to YazdM (Ashdod) (Is., I. H., Muk., Id.), i maich, or (I. Kh.) 20 miles ; to Ar Ramlah (Muk., Id), i march; to Bait Jibrtl (Muk.), i march. Ghunthuk. — "A wadi iyiiig lictwcen Hiiiu^ und Salaniiyyah in Syria. It ib, I believe, a foreign name." (Vak., iii. 819 ; Mar., ii. 321.) GHUR.\ii.— "A wcU-known place near Damascus." (Yak., iii. 779; Mar., ii. 305.) Ghurrab. — "A mountain on the frontiers bdorc reaching Syria, in the lands of the Ban! Kalb tribe. Near it is a spring of water called Ghurrabah." (Yak., iii. 783 ; Mar., iL 306.) Al H a His. — A castle in the plain of Damascus, it is called Habis Jaldak." (Yak., ii aoi ; Mar., L 285.) Hablah. — "A village near Ascalon." (Yak., ii. 198; Mar., t. 284.) Hadas. — *< A district and town in Syria, settled by the I^khm tribe.** (YaL, il 221 ; Mar., L 291.) AlHadath. — *'Histt al Hadath," says Bil&dhuri, "was con- quered in the days of 'Omar by an expedition despatched by (the Arab general) 'lyAd ibn Ghanam. It was originally called Dar^ al Hadath as Salanhih, that is, ' The Road of the News of Safety,' the name Ijcing of good augury, although many Musliui^ had been taken priiioncrs here, and this was, in fact, the only 'news' the people learnt The town was rebuilt by the Khalif al Mahdi after having been destroyed by the Greeks during the troubles between the Omayyad and Abbaside Dynasties. It was built with sun- dried bricLs, but the rains and snows seriously damaged the building. Al&o the Greeks returned and burnt the Mosque. The garrison consisted of 2,000 men from the fortresses of Malatyah, Shimshat, SumaisAt, KaisOm, Duliik and Ra'ban. The Khalif HarOn ar Rashld afterwards rebuilt and garrisoned Al Hadath.*' (BtL, 189-191.) " Al Hadath,*' say Istakhri and Ibn Haiikal in 978, is a small town. Before our days it was taken by the Greeks. 'Ali Saif ad Digitized by Google ta .'.i^ cnce ccoiaed poaassBOo of % Im Uie Giceks ictunied, aad X secccd snx- tccc s cucn dae Maslii]i&'* [A late epitome ct Ibc HaukjI's wizrk aod> : Afeer this ^gidn the liostims retook .AI Halirr. z::otf Ma5*-j<i :!:n Kilrj AisUn die Saljuk ruler of Asia >[fiK>f. TT! the yeir of rhc H'Tab 545 < 1150!, and at this present •iiv 1 n hj.- is :f :he Mu>':nis."' ** Al Hadath has rr'i^. iT i r::-L-"y ir:i trj::5. I: i> j. r^rtre^?: which the Mui^-ii^ hcli ^ gairlr-. r. a^j:r:>c :he Gt^ks. Bu: nuitcrs have a?! fi'*er. out iZ : r e>-ir.z t"r,^ni He:iven is gone: religion is v'-.n^re-i : :r_e rS.t:^ ire ^ven to t)T2nny and the taking of the wea.:h c thcr^. The re. ; 'c ^-^^ ire ncbeluoas."' (Is., 62 ; I. H., I JO ; '::T :r-i in rurt by .\. F, 263.1 " Ai Hadiih," idn»i rei'orts, ** is a place the site of Mar'ash. h hi< fonined walls, and markets, to which roany come for merchj ' ^ : ar.vi the necessities of life.** (Id., 27.) •* Al Hadaih,^ says Yakut, ^ 1$ a town with a strong castle, King between Malattah, Sumatsat and Marash, in the Thughiir Cor Frontier Strongholds). It was dismantled hf the Gredts, and rebuilt by Saif ad Daulah in 343 (954X haviqg passed through many ridssitude& It was originally built under the Khalif al Mahdi in the year 162 (779). Al Hadath is sumamed Al Hamia (the Red)^ because of the colour of the soil here. The castle stands on a mountain called Al Ubaidab.** (Y^> it a 18 ; Mar., i. 291.) " Hadath al Hamni," says Diniashki, "is one of the fortresses towards Mcsopoian. a. li was rebuilt by Al Mahdi, who called it Al Muhammadiyyah : the ArnKir.ins call it Kaituk. The castle stands on :l.c >iHir> ul die Lelunon, overlooking the sea. It has belonirii^g to it broad lands, and more than a thousand viUage&" (Dim., 2c8, 214.) "Al Hadath," Mxites Abu-1 Fida, "lies 78 miles from AntA- klyyah, and 1 2 miles from the Ford of the Alide (MukhMat al Alawi), over the Jaihaii." (A. V . -'i^.) Al lladatli to Antakiyyah (Is., I. H.,), 3 marches; to Manbij (Is., I. H., Id.), 2 days ; to Hisn Mansikr (Is., I. H., Id.)^ t long day ; to Mafash (Is., I. H., Id.), i day. Al Hadath is not marked on the maps of the present day^ Digitized by Google HADHIRAH^—AL HAFFAH, 445 Hadhirah. — "From A i»ilin," wriies Nasir in his Diary, **going in a souihcrly direction, we came to a village called Hadhirah ; and opening' to the west of this village is a valley. In this valley is a spring of rlenr ^\ ;iLcr gushing out from a r()ek,and over against the spring and upon the rock they have built a mosque. In this mosque are two chambers, built of stone, with the ceiling likewise of stone ; the door of the same is so small that a man can only enter with difficulty. Within there are two tombs, placed close side by side, one of which is that of Shu'aib (Jethro) — peace be □pon him t^and the other that of his daughter (Zipporah), who - was the wife of M0s4 (Moses)— on him, too, be peace I The people of the village are assiduous in keeping the mosque and the tombs swept clean, and in the setting here of lamps and other such matters.'* (N. Kh., 15.) The direction is, I think, mistaken, and we should read "east- ward *' from A'biltn. There are several places in these regions north and west of Irbid (the next place Nasir visited) that have at the present lI.iv the name of Hadhirah, Ha/ilr, Ha/iieh, which, meaning merely an "enclosure" — the Bil^lical Ma/.eroth— is ap- plicable to many sites. The tomb of Shu aih is now shown on the mountain of Hattin. celebrated in tradition as the Mount of the Heatitudes, and in histor)' as the battle-hdd where the Crusaders were defeated by Saladin. H.\DiR K.ALB. — 'Anciently," writes VikCkt, "a place outside Halab (Aleppo), but at the present day (thirteenth century) it is a suburb of that city, lying outside its walls like a town quarter. It is an arrow-shot to the south-west. It is also called Hftdir as Sulaim&niyyah. Most of its inhabitants are Turkomans. There is here a fine mosque^ and bazaars where you find all you require. It is also called H&dir Kinnasrin." (Yak., ti. 185; Mar., i. 281.) At. HADfTHAH. — *' A village of the Ghautah of Damascus. It is called also Hadtthah Jarash, or Jaras.** (Yak., iL 225 ; Mar., i. 292.) Al Hafk.xh. — ''A district to the west of lla]ah (.\le['po), com- prising many villages. The cloths called Ilattiyyah come from here, as it is said," (Yak., ii. 296 ; Mar., i. 311.) Digitized by Google 446 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Hafir. — "A village lying between Balis and Halal). The convent of Dair Hllfir belongs to it." (Yak., ii. 187 ; Mar., i. 2S1.) Hafir. — "A stream of the Jordan Province. Along its bank?? are the lands of the Hani al Kain ibn Jasr f tribe) " CYak., ii. 296 ; Mar., i. 311.) Probably the stream flowing from the present spring of El Hafireh, near the ruins of Dothin, the Biblical Dothan, where Joseph was sold by his brethren. Haifa. — ^N4sir-i-Khusiau writes in his Diary : " Leaving Acre, we went on to a village called Haif^, the road all the way lying over the sands, the sand here being of the kind that the goldsmiths of Persia make use of in their business, which is known under the name of ' Makkah sand' This village of HaiA lies on the sea- shore, and there are here palm-gardens and trees in numbers. There are in this town shipbuilders, who build very large craft The sea-going ships of this place are known under the name of *jadt.*" (N- Kh., 19.) ^^HaiH," Idtlst reports, "lies un(fer the promontory of Al Kirmil (Mount Carmel), which is a headland running out into the sea. There is here a fine harbour for the anchorage of galleys and other vessels. Haifa is the port for Tiberias." (Id., t i.) " Haila is a port on the coast of Syria, not far from Vafah. It remained in Muslim hands till it was taken by Kundufri (( iodfrey de Bouillon), who conqiiered Jerusalem in 494 (nor), and it remained in the hands of the Christians till Saladin retof it in 573 (i » 77)> ''^"'^^ dismantled it. Kasr (the Castle of) Haifa is a place lying between Hai£l and Kaisariyyah." (Yak., ii. 381 ; iv. no ; Mar., i. 333.) Ksdik to Kaisariyyah (Id.), 2 days ; to Tabariyyah (Id), short 3 marches ; to 'Akk4, by land (Id.), 30 miles, or i march ; and by sea 18 miles. Hailan. — ^'*One of the villages of Halab. There rises at this place a copious fountain of water, which runs down to Aleppa It is carried into the city by underground channels (Kanlit), which divide up and pass into the JkmV Mosque^ and also into most of the other parts of the city." (Y4k., ii. 382 ; Mar., i. 333.) Hajar adh Dkahab (Gold-stone). — **The name of a quarter of Damascus." (Yak., ii. 2 13 ; Mar., i. 290.) (See above, p. 238.) Digitized by Google HAJAR SHUGHLAN,^ALHVU 447 Ha.iak SHur.Hi.AN. — "A fortress," writes Yakflt, "in the Jabal (or Mountain Chain of) al Lukk;1m, near Ant.^kiyyab, which over- hangs the lake of Al Yaghra. The place belongs (i 225) to the Templars (Ad Diwiyyah), a sect of the Franks, who shut them- selves up here, and at times sally forth to slay the Muslims. Thejr avoid mairiage» and are an order of monks and knights." (Yak., ii. 214; Mar., i. 290.) HajIrA. — A village of the Ghautab of Damascus. The tomb of Mudiak ibn Ziy^ the Companion of the Prophet, is seen here." (Yak., ii. 216 ; Mar., 1. 290.) The Hajj (or Pilgrim) Road. — "The Hajj road," says Yalcftbt, " through Palestine from Damascus to MaJckah, lies over rugged and difficult hills as far as Ailah, whence you go to Madyan. At this place comes in the Pilgrim Road from Egypt and the West." (Vb., 117.) Hakl. — "A place 16 niiks l)efore reaching Ailah. Or, it is said, a village close beside Ailah on the sea-shore." (\ ak., ii. 299 ; Mar., i. 312.) H.\KLA. — " A village in the neighbourhood of Halab (Aleppo).'* (Yak., ii. 298 ; Mar, i. 312.) Halab (Aleppo). -See above, p. 360. Kafar HAiJkB.— a village belonging to Aleppo." (Yak., ii. Halab as SajCr. — " A place in the neighbourhood of Halab. It is mentioned in the histories of the first (Muslim) conquest.** {Idem,) ' Halfabalta. — " One of the villages of Damascus. Near it is seen the tomb of Kanniz, the Companion of the Prophet." (Yak., ii. 316 ; Mar., i. 314.) HalhOu — "A village," writes 'Alt of Herat, **in which is the tomb of Yfints ibn Matt& (Jonah, son of Amittai)." (A. H., Oxf. MS., foho 42.) This is the Halhul of Josh. xv. 58. ^'HalhQl lies between Jerusalem and Hebron," says Yfikiit. (Yak., ii. 316.) The author of the AfarAsid copies both the fore- going jiaragraphs. (Mar., i. 314.) Mujir ad Din writes: "Halhul, not far from Hebron, and on the road to Jerusalem, is the burial-place of Yiinis. The mosque Digitized by Google 44^ PALESTISE UXDEJi THE MOSLEMS. and minaret seen here were built in 623 ( 1 226). MatUi, the father of Vunis, is buried not far off at the village of Bait Amur. He was a, ju"^: ir.an, and 0;" ihe tamily ut the Prophets."' (M. .1. D., 142.) Hamik.— • A v:;>:rut Ixftween Manbij and Ar Rakkah on the Euphrates." i^^Vak.. ii. 1S7 : Mar., i. 282.) H.\MMrRivvAH.- *• A village of the Ghautah of Damascus,' O 'lk., ii. 540 : Mar,, i. 321.) Ai. Hamka^ Thi Rh>V — "The name of a fortress in the neigh- bourhood of Jerusalem." (Yak., ii. 333 ; Mar., i. 319.) Al HamrA is also the surname of .^1 Hadath ; see p. 444. HandCtha.— A village of Ma'anah an Nu'min." (Yak., ii. 347 : Mar., i. 324.) HanIna. — Said to be a Tillage in the Kinnasrin Province." (Yak., ii. 350 ; Mar., I 325.) See also Dair HSnlnd, p. 429. Hanjar* — A district belonging to the Bani 'Arair tribe, in the Province of Kinnasrtn. The name is sotnetiaies written Khanjar." (Yak., ii. 347 ; Mar., i. 324.) Harasta (1). — "A hrge and [>opulous village lying in the midst of gardens, rather more than a league from Damascus on the Hims road." (Yak., ii. 241 ; Mar., i. 296.) Harasta ai. Mantharah (2), (Har.vsta of the Outlook). — *' The nanu" of another m lage uf Damascus, in the Ghautah to the oasiward." (/jVw.) M aka^ i \ (3). — l iic name of a village of the District of Ra'han, of the Halab Province. There is a fort here, and water in plenty." HisN al Harhaiuh, or Al Harvadah. — ^" A populous town and fortress, rich in lands bearing crops. In the town are stored goods and merchandise in quantities. Thence to Al Ladhikiyyah is 18 miles, and to Hisn as Suwaidiyyah is 15 miles." (Id., 23.) Al Hary&dah is the spelling given by Kud^mah. Harbah.— **Said by Al Bakri to be a place in Syria.** (Mar., i. 295.) Harbanafsa.— ** A village of Hims." (Yak., iL 233; Mar., i. 294.) HarbanCtsh.— "A village of Al Jazr, one of the Districts of Halab (Aki)po)." Yak., ii. 233 ; Mar., i. 294.) Digitized by Google HARIB.^AL HARVNIYYAH. 449 HArih — " A district of the Haurdn of Damascus, near Marj as Siifmr, in the lands of the Kudi'ah tribe." (Yak., ii. 183 ; Mar., i. 280.) Al Harith. — " A village of the Haurln near Damascus. It is called Harith al Jauldn. It is also the name of a mountain of Syria, and is mentioned by An Nabtghah the poet" (Yak., ii. 183 ; Mar., i. 380.) Harim (Harenc). — "A fortified castle in a ihiitful district adjacent to Ant&kiyyah. At the (nesent day (thirteenth century) it is counted as of the dependencies of HaJab. There are here many trees and much water, and hence this country is often rav.l^cd by the plague." (Vak., ii. 184 ; Mar., i. 281.) This is the district referred to by William of Tyre under the name of Harenc. "Harim in the Halal) I>istrict," says Ahu-l Fida, "is a smali town with a castle above it There are trees and springs ncsir, and a small river runs by it. It)n Sa'id speaks of it as a fortress with plenty of provisions. There is peculiar to this place the pome- granate, (which is transparent,- so that) you see the inside from the outside^ and it has no pips, and is very juicy. Harim lies 2 days' march west of Halab, and i march from Ant&kiyyah." (A. F., 259.) Harlan. — " A district in the Ghautah of Damascus. In it are many villages. The tribesmen of the Omayyad Khalifs had their houses here." <Yik., ii. 344 ; Mar., i. 396.) Harmauyyah. — "A village of Antikiyyah (Anttoch)." (Yik., ii 244; Mar., i. 296.) Harran (i).— " a village of Halab." (Yftk., ii. 232 ; Mar., i. 294.) Harran (2). — " A village of the Ghautah of Damascus." (Idfm.) Al HARi*Ni\ \ ah. — "A fortress built and ^'arrisoned by the Khalif Harun ar Rashid in 18^ ^799)- Some say it was he^'un during Al Mahdi's days, and lunched by Ar Rashid." (Bil., 171 ; quoted by I. F., T13, and others.) " Al Hariiniyyah," say Istakhri and Il)n Haukal, "lies to the west of the Jabal al Lukkim, and in one of iu valleys. It is a 29 Digitized by Google FALESZISE UKLEM THE MOSLEMS, RDtl : :rTre<&, zmz j: * ■ Hi-lr it RAshsd. Aod is named after him. " Ibn HjLukil. :r c^k 2.cdii "l kncm it to be popokms and well bet the Greeks hxvt raised it of laie rears." <I&, 63 ; L H . 161.1 Al Hirli:hyili.~ Idnsi tcpons. ^is a snaO fortress in one of the eoTges of the lal:kam )loan:a-n& It was built bv lUrfin ar RashUL- lid., 2«.t Al Harir. x ^ uh," Yakut, in tbe thtiteenth centonr, "is a smaD ton near Marasli in the Tbughur (or Frontier Fortresses), on the flank of Taha! I.ukkini. It was founded by Ar Rasfald in A.H. 183 : or, as >onie say. bcjj^n during his father Al Mahdi's d2\-s, and only finished m hts reign. It had double walls and iron irates- The fortress was dismantled by the Rum: < Cnis^idcrs), who seized it in 34S 'ofcu and tc«^k captive one thou s.ind f":ve hundred Muslims, men and women. It was rebuih by Sail' ad 1 >aulah ibn Hamdan. It is at the present day in the territory of the Bani Liyun (Leo), the King of Armenia.'' (Vak«, iv. 945 ; Mar., iii. Abu'l Fidi repeats most of tbe foregoing and adds nothiiig fresh. (A. V., 2;? J Al Hiruniyyah to Ba>yas (Is., L H.^ less than 1 day; or (Id.) :S mHes ; to MaHash (Is., 1. H.), 1 march ; to Al Kanisah (A. F.), la miles. The fortress is not marked on the present maps. Al Hasa.— " a place in Syria,* writes YakAt, **ncar Al Kaiak (Kerak Moab). I think it is the name of a w&dt." (YSk.^ tl 266 ; Mar., i. 302.) Al Hatha.—** A place in Syria." <Yak., ii. 203 ; Mar. i 386.) Hattawah.— •* A village of 'Askalan." (Yak., ii. 202 ; Alar., i. 286.) HiTTlN, OK HattIn.— " Hattin," says 'AH of Herat, "is a \iil;)gc Iniilt on the mountains, on the summit of whirh is the tomb of Shu'aib (Jelhro), and of his wife. The battle in 583 (the year 1 187, where Salndin annihilated the Crusaders) took place here. N^'he name is sometimes spelt Hattlm." (A, H., Oxf. MS., Ho 29.) I Digitized by Google 451 ** According to some authorities Hittin," says Yakut, "is a viUagc liLiween Arsuf and Kaisari)yah, where there is to be seen the tornb of Shu'aib the Prophet. But this is a mistake, for Hittin lies between Tabariyyah and 'Akkd, 2 leagues from the former, and near it is a village called Khiyarah, in which is seen the tomb of Shu'ail). Saladin gained a great Imttle here over the Franks about the middle of the month of Rabi I., of the year 583, and in this battle the kings of the Franks were all conquered, and by reason of it all the coast towns were freed from them. Their Pharaoh Arbat (Robert), the lord of Al Karak and Shaubak, was slain in this battle. This is the true version, without doubt, and the other authorities make a mistake in sufvposing Hatttn to be near Arsiif." (Yak., ii. 291 ; Mar., i. 309.) Dimashki speaks of Hatttn, and of the tomb of Shu'aib^ and continues : " It was at this village that the great battle took place between the Franks and the Muslims under Saladin. He broke the Franks on the Horns (Kum) of Hattfn, and slew a great mul- titude, and took their kings prisoner. And he built on the Horn of Hattin a dome, which is called Kubbat an Nasr (the Dome of Victory)." (Dim., 212.) Haurah. — " One of the villages of Balis, lying between Jt and Ar Rakkah." (Vak., ii. -^50 : Mar., i. 328.) Haut. — "A village of Huns, or el'^e of JabaJah of the Syrian coast." (YAk., ii. 365 ; Mar., i. 329.) Haww.ar, or HrwwAR (i). — "A Kurah (or district) of Halab, lying between the districts of 'Aziz and Al J Omah." ( V^, ii. 353 ; Mar., i. 326.) Hawwar (2). — " A village of Manbij." (Idem.) Tall Hawwar (3). — " A hill lying between HamfUi and Al Ma*aiTah, for Al HawwHr is the name of a white day, like gypsum, which is to be found here." (/dm,) Hawwar (4). — "Says Ahmad ibn at Tayyib, this is the name of a mount to the west of the Jaihiln (Pyramus) of the Syrian Thughfir (or Frontier Fortresses) ; so called from the whiteness of the soil there." Y4kAt adds : " People of credit at Aleppo have told me that Al Huwwsb- (see above, No. i) is the name of a large province near Halab, and its chief town is Al Bal^t. But this 29 — 2 Digitized by Google 45* PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, place is now in rums. They pronounce the name also Hawwar with an a." (Vak., il. 353 ; Mar. i. 326.) Al Hayyaniyyah. — '* A Kurah (or district) of the Damascus Province, in the Jabal Hursh (Jarash ?), near the Ghaur of the Jordan." (Yftk., ii. 374 : Mar., i. 331.) The AfariAsui speUs the name Al Hayyanah. HiBAi.— <* A village of the W&dt Milsi (Petta) of the Jabal ash Shardh, near Al Karak, in Syria.** (Ydk., ii. 193; Mar., i 283.) HibarAk.— ''Said to be a town (or district) of Syria." (Vak., ii. 192 : Mar., i. 283.) Hi.iRA.— "A village near Damascus." (YIJc., ii. 214; Mar., i. 290.) Ai. HrMVAKiNN i N — **A quarter (or village) outside Damascus on the Kanats {or underground water-channels)." (Yak., ii. 342; Mar., i. 322.) HfNzfr.— " A fortress of the (ireeks." [The A/tinr \f J adds : "Some say of the Thughur, or Frontier Fortress of Mar'ash."] "It is mentioned by the poet Al Mutanabbi." (Y4k., ii. 993 ; Mar., iii. 3*5 ) HiSMA. — " A territoiy belonging to the Judham tribe. It is a mountainous tract between Ailah, the desert of the Tih, and the territory of 'Udhrah." (Y4k., ii. 267 ; Mar., i. 303.) Al HtSN, OR HiSN 'Aots. — ^"A strong place lying between Halab and Ar Rakkah." (See farther, under Hisn al Akrad.) (Yak., ii. 275 ; Mar., i. 305.) Hisn al Akrad (Castle of the Kurds, also called Kala'at al Hisn ; The Crusading Fortre.ss of Le Krak DES Chevaliers). — " An impregnable fortress," writes Ydkftt, **on llic mountain opposite Hims, towards the west. These moim- tains are the Jabal al Jalil, which run into the Tribal l.ubnan (I^ebanon) between Ba'albakk and Hims. A certain of the Syrian Amirs built here a town, and garrisoned it with Kurds to fight against the Franks. Bui tiie I'ranks (in TT40) took the place from the Kurds, and it remains in tlieir hands to this day (1225). Hisn al Akrad is a day's journey from Hims." " There is also, according to some authorities, a place between Digitized by Google H/S// AD DAWIYYAH,—HISN MAKDIYAH, 453 Ar Rakkah and Hims caUed Hisn al Akrad, but I (VdkOt) believe this to be a mistake. Another authority also says between Balis and Manbij is a place called Hisn 'Adls, but this place in truth lies between Ar Rakkah and Halab." (Y^, ii. 276 ; Mar., i 305.) Hisn al Akrad, called by the Crusaders Le Krak (or Crac) des Chevaliers, l^ecame the chief seat of the Knights Hospitallers of the Order of St John, after the fall of Jerusalenu It was retaken by the Muslims, under Sultan KalA'ftn, in 1285. Hi.sN Ai> DAwivvAH (The For'i ri:ss ok i hi: 'I'kmi'i aks). — " A castle in the Province of S)ria. 1 iic i). wivvah ( Tcinplars) are a sect of the Franks who bind themselves ijy oaths to slay the Muslims, and they abstain from marrying, and have other pet uli- arities. 'I'hey have arms, and wealth and much power (m Syria), and they owe obedience to none.' (Vak., ii. 276 ; Mar., i. 305.) Hisn Dhu-l Kii.a* (The Fort of Castles). — "It is so called," writes Biladhuri, because it consists of three castles. Its name in the Greek tongue signifies The Fortress of the Stars," (15il., 1 70.) VakOt adds : " It is also called Hisn DhQ-l Kula', or The Fort of Strength. It is a fortress near Al Masstssah. The name was originally Dhfi-X Kili' (with the hard k), meaning the Fort of the Castles, for it is said that it was built on the founda- tions of three castles; and the present name is a coiruption of this word KiI4'. According to another account, the explana- tion of the name in the Greek tongue is The Fortress with the Stars." (Yik., H. 277 ; Mar., i. 306.) Hisn al 'Inab (The Fortress op The (Irape.)— **In the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, in the Filastin Province." (Vak., iL 277 ; Mai., 1. 305.) Hisn Katak^.hCsh. — fortress of the Frontier District of the Thughur near Al Massissah. It was the first which the Khalif Hisham ibn 'Abd al MaHk built, his engineer being " Abd al 'Aziz ibn Hassan, of Antioch." (Yak,, iv. 136: quoting Hil., 167.) 1 he author of the Mardsid spells the name Katargha&hik in error. (Mar., ii. 430.) Hisn Makdiyah.— " \ fortress of the dependencies of Adhri'ihj it lies in the Damascus Province." (Yak., ii. 278; Mar., i* 306.) Digitized by Google 454 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, HiSN MansCr (MansOr's Fortress}.— According to Bfla- dhuri, *^ it is called after MansOr ibn Ja'wanah ibn Al Hirith Al 'Amiri, of the Kaisites. He superintended its building and restoied it. He was stationed here during the days of (the last Omayyad Khalif ) Marwan, and made incursions thence into the (Ireek Country, and was slain in 141 (758) ai \r Rakkali. Hisn Mansur was rebuilt and rcfortified by the Khaiit ar Rashid in the days of his father, Al Mahdi." (Bil., 192.) "Hisn Mansur/' say Istakliri and Tbn Haukal, "is a small fortified town in which is a I Vida) Moscjue. Its fields arc watered by the rains. Fate has decreed its destruction alternate! \ at the hands of the Cjreeks, and of the Princes of the race of Hamdao." (Is., 62 ; 1. H., f20. Copied by A. F., 269.) " Hisn Mansftr,*' according to Idrisi's report, ''is a beautiful and celebrated fortress. It has lands and villages round it The lands are extremely fertile, and produce most excellent crops^'* (Id., 36.) " Hisn MansCir,*' says YdkCA, "lies west of the Euphrates, near SumaisAt. It was a town with a wall, a ditch, and three gates. In its midst stood a fortress and a castle with a double wall round it It lies I march from Zibatrah." (Y&k., ii. 278; Mar., t. 306.) Abu-1 Fida writes that " Hisn Mansur in the Province of Kinnasrin lies not far from Sumaisat. At the present day it is dismantled, but the ground round it is still cultivated. It lies on a plntenu to the north of the Nahr al Azrak (the Sanjah River), and to the south-west of the Kui>hrates. but near both streams The mountains of Al Jabal are to the west of Hisn Mansur, between it and Malatyah, and through these lies the pass." (A. F., 269.) Hisn Manser to Shimshat (Is,, I. H.), i day, or (Id.) 21 miles, or I long day; to Malatyah (Is., I. H ), 2 days, or (Id.) 30 miles; to Zabatrab (Is., I. H.), i day ; to Al Hadath (Is., 1. H., Id.), i day ; to Ma'ansih an Nu'mdn (Id.), i day. Hisn Salman. — "One of the fortresses of the 'Awisim Pro- vince, near Kfirus. It is called after Salm&n ibn Rabi'ah, a » warrior of the army of 'Ubaid Allah ibn al Jan&b, the Arab Digitized by Google HISN AT TINAT.^AL HUM AIM AH. 4SS general who carried out the first conquest of Syria." (Yik.y ii. 276 ; Mar.y i. 306.) HiSN AT TInAt.--*' a fort on the sea-shore. It is here that the wood of the Snobur (pine) is cut, which is carried thence to all parts of Syria, Egypt, and the districts of the Frontier For- tresses. The men here are brave and strong ; they know well the passes of the (keek territory, and are experienced in commerce wi:i; ihc Crocks." (Is., 63; I. H., 121.) Idrisi (Id., 24) and YakClt (Yak., i. 910 ; Mar., i. 223) add nothing to the al)Ove. Hisn at Tinat to Hisn Rusiis (Id.) is 15 miles; to Hisn al Muthakkah (Id.) is S miles. HiYAR. — "* A district in the lands of the Bani Ka'ka', lying 2 days' march from Halab, in the country near the desert of Kinnasrin, and 2 days' journey also from the town of Kinnasrin." (Vak., ii. 373 : Mar., i. 331.) ** Kftrah al HiyAr," says Abu-1 FidA, ** is the name of one of the diitricu of Alq>po. At the present time (1321) its lands are desert, and only wild animals live here. But it is mentioned in books. It took its name from Hiydr ibn al KalcIL* There camp here the 'Abs, the Fazdrah and other tribes of the Arabs." (A. F., 232.) Al HuoAijA. — "A village of Syria." (Yik., ii. 226; Mar., i. 292.) Al UOlah (i). — "The name of a place in Syria belonging to the Hims Province ; it lies between Hims and Taribulus, not for from Barin." (Yik., ii. 366 ; Mar., ii. 330.) Al HCl.\h (2) (Lake Merom .\nl) its Lands).—" It is also the name of a district between BaniyAs and Tyre, l)elon<,Mng to Damascus and possessing many villages." {Idem.) (See above, p. 6J!i.) Ai. Hhmaimah (Thk Ijiii i. Bath). — A place in the jjro- vincc ot Ash Sharah. It was the home of 'Ali ibn *Abd Allah ibn Al 'Abbas iljn ' Abd al Mutallib and his sons." (Yb., 114.) ** A town in the Sharah Province," says Yakfit, *' in the neigh- bourhood of the districts of 'Amman, on the confines of Syria. Some of the Abb^ide family had lands here." (Yak.» ii. 342 ; Mar., i. 322.) " Al Humaimah," writes Abu-1 Fida, is the place from 'which * See Biogntphicftl Dictionaiy by Ibn KhalUkIn, tv. 167. Digitized by Google 456 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. the Bani 'Abbas set forth when they gained the Khalifate of Irak. It lies aboul a day s journey from Sliaubak." (A. H., 228.) Kaij^'ah HOnain, or HC'NfN.— "A fort which stands perched on a single rock. It has lands round it." (Dim., 211.) Near Baniyas. HrxAK. — "A strong fortress that stood near Ma'arrah an Nu man. It was dismantled by 'Ahd Allah ibn Tflhir in tlie year 209 (824), after the rebellion which had taken place in the Syrian Province." (Y4k., ii. 345 ; Mar., i. 324.) HuNDURAH. — A village near 'Askalan. Also called Hindirah and Hund^iah." (Yak., ii. 347; Mar., i. 324.) HuRDAN. — « A viUage of Damascus." (Yak.,ii. 238; Man,i. 295.} HURDHUFNAH. — A Village of Manbtj in Syria wheie the poet Al Bubturi was bom in the year 2oo» or in 205, during the days of the Khalif Al MdmCin. He died in 284 (897V' (Ydk., ii. 259 ; Mar., i, 295.) HurdbufnIn. — ** A village lying 3 miles from Haiab (Aleppo).' (YflL, ii. 239 ; Mar., i. 295.) HuRjALLA. — ** A village of Damascus.** (Ydk.» ii. 238; Mar., 295 ) HusBAN ^Hkshbon). - According to Abu 1 I'ida, is the Ciipital of the Balka Province. ** It is a small town, and ru. ir it is a valley with trees, and mills, and gardens and fields, i his valley lies cuiuiguous to the Ghaur of Zughar (on the Dead Sea)." (A. F., 227.) Al Hus.s. — " A })hu e near Hims." (Yak., ii. 274 ; Mar., i. 305.) Al HusOs. — "A town near Al Ma.ss!ssah to the east of the Jaihdn (P>Tamus) River. It was built by the Khalif Hisham ibn 'Abd al Malik, and he dug a ditch round it" (Y4k., ii. 279 ; Mar.y i. 307.) HuwwARAiN (i). — ^" A celebrated village of Halab (Aleppo)." (Yak., ii. 355 ; Mar., i. 327.) HuwwArain (2).— "A fortress near Himis.'' (Idem,) HuwwArain (3). — ^''The name of one, or of two villages Tadmur (Palmyra) and Damascus, lying 2 marches from " (Ident.) (See also above, p. 451, under Hawwftr.) DR 1dh()n. — "A castle near Halab (Aleppo)." (Yak., riar., iL 291.) The latter spells the name with a final «. Digitized by Google *IFRA,^tRB!D, JRBIL, OR ARBiD. 457 Ifra* — " A place in the Filasttn Province. Mentioned in the Traditions of the Prophet" (Y&k.» tii. 688 ; Mar., ii. 264.) IkAm. — " A place in Syria. Al IklUn is said to be a mountain range on the frontier of Al Masslssah, being part of the Jabal Luklc^in, but standing separate from it The range is almost 30 leagues long, and 3 leagues across. In it are many villages and castles.*' (Ydk., i. 341 ; Mar., L 85.) *Imm. — "A rich village," says Ydkfit, "possessing many water- springs and trees. It lies between Ant^kiyyah and Halab, The whole population at the i)resciit day (thirteenth century) is Christian. Ibn Butlan, writing in the year 540 and odd (1051), sayb : * We went from Aleppo to Antioch, and passed the ni^ht at a town of the Greeks called 'Imm. There was here a spring of water in which they caught fish. All round it were mills. In the town were pig-sties, and i)ublic places for women and brothels, and taverns for wine not a few. There were here four churches, and one mosque, where the Muslims secretly made the call to prayer.'" (Yak., iii. 728; Mar., ii. 281.) iNNia — " A fortress in the 'AzUz District near Halab.*" (Yak., i. 369 ; Mar., i. 94.) Iram.— ''The name of a mountain in the territory of the Bani JudhUm, lying between Allah and the Tih Desert of the Bani Israil It is a very high mountain, and the people of the desert say there are vines and Snobur (pines) there.*' (Yak., i. 212; Mar., i. 48.) Irbid, Irbil, or Ardid (Arbela, of 1 Macc. ix. 2). — Visited by Nasir-i-Khusrau in 1047. Travelling from Acre to Tiberias, he writes in his Diary : " From Hadhirah we went on to a village called Irbil, on the soutli side of which rises a mountain, and on the mountain is an enclosure, which same contains four graves — those of the sons of \ a'kub (Jacob)— peace be upon him ! — who were brothers of ^'usuf (Joseph) upon him, too, be {)eace I And going onward, 1 came to a hill, and below the hill a cavern, in which was the tomb of the mother of Moses — peace be upon him 1 — ^and I made my visitation there also." (N. Kh., 16.) "Irbid," says 'Ali of Herat, "is in the neighbourhood of Tabariyyah. Here, to the right of the high-road, is the tomb of Digitized by Google 4S8 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. the mother of Moses. Four of the sons of Jacob also lie buried here^ namely, Dan, Issikhl^n (Issachar), Zabulfin and Kdd (Gad)." (A. H., Oxf. MSS., f. 29.) ** Irbid,*' Y&kikt adds to the above^ ** is a village in the Jordan Province, near Tabariyyah, and lying on the right of the road down to Egypt." (The remainder copied from 'Ali of Herat.) (Vak.. i. 184 ; Mar., i. 41.) IkBiL. — "According to some," writes YakCit, '* Irbil is one of the names for Saidd (Sidon), the city on the Syrian coast." (Yak., i. 189 ; Mar., i. 42.; Al 'Irnas. — "A place near Hims." (Vak., iiu 656 ; Mar., il Al IsKANDARiYYAH (i). — "The name of a village lying between Halab and Hamib." (Yik., L 255 : Mar., i. 63.) ISKANDARIYVAH, OR IsKANDAROnAH (2) (ALEXANDROSCKENe, ScANDALiuH, The Crusading Sablon d'Acre).— '* A foTtresson the shore of the Greek Sea (Mediterranean). It possesses palm- trees and many fields and crops, and the land round is very fertile. But the enemy attain to it easily/' (Is., 63 ; L H., 161.) ** Iskandariinah," writes Idrtst, probably copying the above, *'is a fortress by the sea ; there are palm-trees and cultivated fields, and many crops and much fertility." (Id., 24.) The traveller Ibn Juhair (1185) notes in his Diary thai " Iskaiidarunah was passed between 'Akka and Sur (Tyre). It is a walled village " (I. J., 307.) This town is mentioned by \'akut, who, to distinguish it from the northern Iskandarunah, specifies that it stands between Acre and Tyre. (Yak., i. 254; Mar., i. 62.) Iskandariyyah to Hisn az Zib, 5 miles (Id.) ; to SCir, 15 miles (Id.). IskandarOnah (3). — "A town lying to the east of Antioch, and on the sea-shore. From here to Baghras is 4 leagues, and to Antioch is 8 leagues." (Y&k., i. 254 ; Mar., i. 62.) Abu-1 Fidi writes: **B^b SikandarOnah in the Kinnasrfn Province (otherwise IskandarQnah), says Ahmad al K&tib, is a town on the Greek Sea, near Antikiyyah. it was built by Ibn Abi Duwid al Ayddh* in the days of the Khalif al Wllthik. Bib * See llm Kballikan (Dc hlanc), 1., p. b. biyiiizua by Google IZBJD.-JABALAH, 459 SikandarAnah if] our daySy" adds Abu4 Fida, " is a pass (tb6 ancient Tylic Ciliciae) leading into the country of S!s (Little Armenia), from the neighbourhood of Halab. It lies less than a march from Baghras, :uid there is no town there now (twelfth centu!-)'), nor even a village. Bab Sikandarunah is 12 miles from iia-hrA>,- (A. F., 255.) Iskandarunah, or Iskandariyyah, to Bayyas (is., I. H., Id ), i short march ; to Antakiyyah (Id.), 25 miles ; to Al Massissah (Id), 40 miles ; to Hisn Baghras (Id.), 9 miles. IzBiD. — *'A village belonging to the Damascus Province, Ijing 1 3 miles from Adhia'^. The Khalif Yazid, son of 'Abd al Malik, died here in the year 105/' (Yak., i. 231 ; Mar,, i. 54.) Jaba Birak.— «• The name of a place in Syria.** (YAk., il 14 j Mar., i. 236.) Al JabAh. — " A spring of water between Halab (Aleppo) and Tadmur (Palmyra). It is the field of a famous battle between Saif ad Daulah and the Arab tribes (of the Desert)." (Y4k., ii. 17; Mar., i. 237.) Al Jabal (The Mountain).— "The name of a Rurah (or district) of Hims." (Yak., ii. 22 • Mar., l 2^^. ; Jabalah (Gabala, Gibeli.um, or (iiiiEi.LU:; Major of thk Crusades, also cali.eu Zibel).— ''A town on the coast of the province of Hims " (Yb., 112.) "Jabalah," .says Jbn Haukal, 'Ms a fme city on the coast where the U'a/ir of the Mountain Provinces resides. The Greeks (Crusaders) took it (in 968), and carried off captive 35,000 men, women and children. " (1. H., 118.) "Jabalah on the sea," reports Idrisi, * is a small but fine town and populous. Its people possess many good things. It lies on a wadi where there is running water." (Id, 23.) "Jabalah," writes Yakdt, " is a celebrated fortress on the Syrian coast, near Al Udhikiyyah, in the Halab District. It was first taken (by the Arabs) in the year 17 (638), and was dismantled. The town was rebuilt by the Khalif Mu'^wiyah, who also built a fortress there, outside ihe old Greek fortificatio n. \\c settled the place with Muslims. Jabalah was taken by the (ireeks (Crusaders) 357 (9^^)- I" ibe year 473 (1080) it was retaken by Muslims biyuizua by Google 400 PALESTINE UMDER IHB MOSLEMS. coming from Taribulus. Jabalah was conquered again by the Franks in 502 (1108), and was finally retaken by Saladin in 584 (1189), and remains in Muslim hands down to the present day/' (V4k., ii. 25 ; Mar., i. 239.) "Jabalah,*^ writes Abu-1 FidiL, " on the Syrian coast, is a small town. There is here a tomb which is stated to be that of Ibrahim ibn Adham.* Muhallabi says Jabalah is larger than i3ulunya.s. It lies 24 miles from iiulunyds, and 12 from Ladhikiyyah. It has extensive dependencies." (A. K, 255.) Jabalah was visited by Ibn Batiitah in 1 ;^;5- speaks of it as a city with many streams and trees ali round it. '* The sea lies about a mile distant. The tomb of Ibrahim ibn Adham (the saint) is here. In these j)arts live the sect of the Nusairiyyab, who believe the Khalif Ali ibn Abi TMib to be God" (1. H., i. 172, 176.) Jabalah to Ualab (Vak.), 3 days; to Bulunyibi (Id.), 10 miles ; to Al L&dhikiyyah (Id.), 10 miles. Al Jabb6l.^*' a large village beside the Salt Matsh (M^UiAhah) of Halab (Aleppo). Into this salt maish drain the waters of the \V4di Butnin, also called the Wddt an Nahr Adh Dhahab (the Ciolden River). The water here evaporates, and they get from this marsh salt, which is carried into all the countries of Syria and Mesopotamia. It is farmed for 120,000 Dirhams {Mardsid^ 28,000 JJirhams : ^^4,800, or ^1,1 2oy .1 year. Vast numbers of birds frequent this marsh." (Yak., ii. 29 ; Mar., i. 239.) Al jAiiiVAH (The Water- I ank). — "A village of the Damascus District, or else of the district of Al Jaidhur. it lies near the lands of Al Kliaulan, not far from Marj-as-Suffar, in the north of the Hauran. As thou lookest from As Sanamain, facing north, thy back is towards it. As also is thy back turned against Nawa. Near by is a hill called 1 all al J&biyah, full of small serpents : these serpents are called Umm as Suwaity 'those of the little cry.' They are extremely hurtful. When they bite they make a little cry, and thereupon immediately die. This was the place where the Khalif 'Omar made his celebrated sermon. The Gate of Bftb * A certain holy man, wliu renounced the throne to lead the life of a sainu See for hib life. Ibn Batdtah, L 173. biyiiizua by GoOgI JADAn,^AL J AMP, 461 al Jibiyah, of Damascus, is called after this place, which also is known as Jabiyah al Khauian." (Ylk., ii. 3 ; Mar., i. 233.) Jadar (i). — "A village lying between Hims and Salamiyyah. The wine called after this place is grown here.** (Ylkk., ii. 40 ; Mar., i. 343.) Jadar (3). — A village in the Jordan Province.'* (Idem.) JadayyA. — A village of Damascus. It is called at the present day (thirteenth centur)') Jidya." (Yak., ii. 42 ; Mar., i. 244.) JAdiyah.— A vill^ of the BalkA Province, in Syria." (Yak., ii. 5 ; Mar., i. 233.) Al Jai. — '* One of the small towns of the Filastiii Province. Its water is hot, and its ch'matc insalubrious." (Id., 4.) Possibly a mi.stakcn reading {>f the MS. for Al Hasa. (See p. 450 ) JairL'N. — "The Eastern (late of the Mosque of DamaM us is called by this name. Some say it was originally a jniiarc built by the Satans, or else by Solomon. According to anotlier nrrouni, JairOn is said to have been a village of the .'i ints in the Land of Kan'i^ (Canaan). At Damascus the building of this name was a colonnade stjpported on pillars, and round it is now built the city of Damascus. The name of the Satan who built this colonnade is said to have been Jairfln. Another account relates that the iirst who built Damascus was JairOn ibn Sa'd ibn *Ad ibn Imm ibn Sim (Shem) ibn Nfih (Noah). There was, it is said, originally the fortress called Htsn JairOn at Damascus, which was built by one of the giants. He built a separate house in the fortress for each of the planets.'' (Y&k., ii. 175 ; Mar., i. 278.) See above (p. 235). Jal^d. — "A well-known village in Syria." (YSk.. ii. 107 ; Mar., i. 262.) Probably near the 'Ain Jalud, the Spring of Goliath, in the Plain of Esdraelon. jAi.(!ri.ATAiN. — "A village of Ha'albakk, near An Nahrawan." (Vak ii. 108: Mar., i. 262.) jAM.vHAkivvAH. — "A fortrcss near Jalialah, on the Syrian coast." (YAk., ii. 214: Mar., i. 264.) Al Jami'(The Mosque). — A village of the(Ihautah District of Damascus. It was of old inhabited by the clients of the Omayyad family. It is of the Marj District." (^ ak., ii. 10 ; Mar., i. 235.) biyuizua by Google 461 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Al }am!lah. — *'A place lying i day's march from Tabar- iyyah." (Id. lo.) Jamma'ii.. "A well in the hills of Nabulus, in the Filastin Province. It lies a day's journey distant from Jerusalem, and belongs to that city." (\ak., ii. it-? ; v. 18; Mar., i. 263.) Jandarus (CiiNDARUs). — " A luwi) near Tizin, and in the (territory of) JOmah. It is a ]jlacc that is full of habitations. 'J'here are thermnl springs here, but it is unknown where the waters rise, or whither they flow. ' (Dim., 205.) Jarash (Gf.rasa). — "A town in the Jordan Province. The population is half Greek, half Arab." (Vb., 115, in A.D. S91.) "Jarash," says Yakftt, in 1225, " is the name of what was once a mighty city, but is now a total ruin. This I am told by chose who have seen it. There are wells of the 'Adite days to be seen here. Through its midst runs a river, which turns at the present day several mills. It lies to the east of the Jabal as Suw&d, between the Provinces of the Balldt and Haurftn, occupying a mountain tract that is full of villages and domains. This is called Jabal Jarash. Jarash was conquered during the Khalifote ol *Oma* by (the Arab general) Shurahbtl. The name is mentioned in Al Mutanabbi's poems. It is also spoken of as the HimA (or domain) of Jarash, and the Castle of Jarash." (^'ak., ii. 61.) Al Jarba. — "A place in the district of 'Aintnan, in the Halka Province, near the Jabal ash Sharah (or As Sarah) of the Hijj.i/ frontier. It is not hr from the town of Adhruh. Its people originally were Jews. The Prophet wrote to them, and they had dealings with him. The place was afterwards colonized from Adhruh ; but it belonged to the Government of Ailah." (Vik., ii. 46, 48 ; Mar., i. 246, 247.) Jarhah.— " A village of 'Askalin." (Yak., ii. 56 ; Mar., i. 248; in the latter misspelt Jarhar.") Al Jarmak. — *'A territory in the Safad District There is here a very ancient town, in which there lived a tribe of the Hebrews who took their name from it, and were called A/ yard- makah^ the Jarmakites, and Al Kan*4niyiln, the Canaanttes, from the of Kan'an ibn Nfih, near by.'* (Dim., 211.) JarmAnA. — '* A district of the Ghautah of Damascus." (Y&k., ii. 64 ; Mar., i. 250.) biyiiizoa by GoOgle JAttMANAS.^NAHR AL JAVZ, 463 Jarmanas. — "A village of the (ihautah. Perhaps it is the same as Jarmin^ but Allah knows best." (Yak., il 64 ; Man, i. 250.) Al Jarr. — " The name of a mountain in Syria, near Ba'albakk. The 'Ain al Jarr (see p. 386) flows at its foot" (Yik., ii. 57 ; Mar., i. 249.) JarCd. — ^ A village of MalAld, in the Ghautah of Damascus." (Y4k., ii. 65 ; Mar., i. 250.) Al Jashsh (Giscala). — A village that is almost of the size of a provincial capital. It lies in the centre of four districts that are in the vicinity of the sea. At Al Jashsh is preserved the chain of David, but the authenticity thereof is doubtful." (Muk., 46, 163.) "Jashsh," sa\h. \ akut, "is a town lyin^f between Tyre and Tabariyyah, Ijcing on the road down to the sea-coast." (Yak., ii. 83 ; Mar., i. 256.) Al Jashsh to labariyyah (Muk.), 1 march; to SQr (Muk.), I inarrh. Jasim. — "A town in the Damascus Province." (Yk., 115.) ** J^im," says ACas'ildi, " is a village belonging to Damascus. It lies in the country between the Damascus and the Jordan Provinces, in a district called Al Khaul^n. Jisim is a few miles from Al Jibiyah, and from the territory of Naw&, where is the Pasturage of Job." (Mas., vii. 147.) "J^im," writes YdkQt, "is a village lying 8 leagues from Damascus, on the right of the high-road to Tabariyyah. It is called after Jlsim, son of Ixam ibn Sim (Shem) ibn Ndh (Noah), who visited it at the time of the destruction of the Tower of Babel.'* (Yik., ii. 8 ; Mar., i. 2.'^5.) Jasini to Kuswah (Muk.), i march ; or (id.j, 24 miles; to Fik (Muk.), I march, or (I. K.), 24 miles. J.\LiiAR. — "A village of the (ihautah of Damascus. There is reported to be a river there.' (Yak., ii. 139 ; Mar., i. 269.) N.\HR AL J.\uz (The Nut River).--" The name of a district," says Yakut, in 1225, "with many villages and gardens, lying between Halab and Al Birah on the Euphrates. JNahr al Jauz belongs to Al Birah. Its inhabitants are all Armenians.'' (Yik., il 151 ; Mar., i. 271.) biyuizua by Google 464 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Al Jauzah. — A place mentioned b) I:,takli)i and Ibn Haukal as lying 2 days' march from Tarsus. In Idrisi the name is ^pell Al Jaii/.;ih, which would appear the l)etter reading to Hauiah^ as the name is given in Is., 68, and I. H.. 127. Al Jazik.- "One of the villages in the southern region of Halab (Alcppo)» of the district of As Suhiil." (Y4k., ii. 8 ; Mar., I. 234 ) Al Jazr.— *'A Kikrab (or district) of Halab." (Y4k., ii. 71; Mar., i. 252.) Al }!b. — **A place in the Filasttn Province, lying between Jerusalem and N&bulus. There are here two fortresses^ called Upper and Lower Al Jib (Al Jib al l^uk&nt and Al Jih at ToAldni), and they stand close one to the other.** (YMl, ti. 170 ; Mar., i. 276.) JiBRhr.— " A village lying between Damascus and Ba^albakk.* (Yak., ii. 20; Mar., i. 238.) For Bait Jibrin, or Jibril, see above, p. 412. TfxfN (riiNr:A). — "A small and beautiful town, lying between Nabulus and Baisan, in the Jordan Province. There is mm h water, and many springs are found here, and often have I visited it." CVak., ii. t8o : Mar., i. 279.) Probably the Ginea of Josephus, and the Engannim of Joshua xix. 21. JiNTHA. — ".\ district situated between Damascus and Ba'al- biikk." (Yak., ii. 126; Mar., i. 267.) JiRAR. — " A place in the neighbourhood of Kinnasrin." (Yik., ii. 45 ; Mar., i. 245.) JisRAiN (The Two Bridges). — '*Jismin is a village of the Ghautah of Damascus.** (Y^, ii. 82 ; Mar., I 256.) Ai. Jiyyah. — ** A fortress on the sea. Thence to Saidft (Sidon) is 8 miles ; and to Htsn KalamAn is about 5 miles." (Id., 16.) Juba!l(i), (Gebal,'Biblos; Giblbt op the Crusaders).— Ya'kObi, in 891, writes : " Jubail is entirely peopled by Persians, who were brought here by the Khalii Mu'uwiyah. " (^Vb., 114.) Jubail was visited by Nlsir-i-Khusrau in 1047. He writes in his Diary : "The town of Jubail is built in the form of a triangle, one angle lying out to sea; and surrounding it are high, well-built biyiiizca by Google i JUBAIL,^yUBB YVSUP, 465 walls. All round the town aie date-palm^ and other tfees of a wann region. I met a boy there who had in his hand two roses, one red, one white, and both already lull-blown, though it was still but the 5th day of the month Isfiuiddrmuz (or March) of the ancient Persians, being in the Persian era (of Yazdagird) the year 415." (N. Kh.,9.) *• MAhuz Jubail, 5 miles from Jubail," writes Idrisi, ** is a strong fortress. The city of Jubail itself is a fine town lying on the sea, having strong walls. It has wide territories, trees, fruits and grapes. There is, however, no running w.iici, and the people drink of well water. There is a good anchorage before the city, and wharves. ' (Id., 17.) "Jubail," says Vikut, "is a town on the coast of the Damascus Province, 8 leagues east (or north) of Bairut. It was first con- quered by the Khalif Yazid ibn Abu Sufyan, and remained in Muslim hands till Sanjil the Frank — Allah curse him !— took it in the year 496 (1103). Jubail was reconquered by Saladin in 583 (1187), and he garrisoned it with Kurd troops; but these sold it in 593 to the Franks, and In their bands it still remains (thirteenth century).** (Ydk., ii. 33 ; Mar., i. 340.) *' Jubail," says Abu4 Fidi, " lies 18 miles fiom Bairut It has a port and a maiket, and a mosque.'* (A. F., 347.) Jul)ail to the mouth of the Nahr Ibrahim, and to MdhQz Jubail (Id.), 5 miles; to Hisn Bathrfin (Id.), 10 miles. Al J u kail (2). — "Is the name of a place (or district) in the neighbourhood of Hims, and lies close to it." (Yak,, ii. 34 ; Mar., i. 240.) JuHH YisrK (Joseph's Pit). — " This lies 12 miles from Tal)ariyyah, in the direction of Damascus. Jacob's home was at one time in the Province of the Jordan." (Is., 59 ; I. H., 114.) "Jubb Vusuf as Sadik," says Ydkut, "are wells situated in the middle of a Wadi of this name. This is where Joseph met his brethren. The i)lace lies in the Upper (Greater) Jordan, between Baniy4s and labariyyah, and 1 3 miles from Tabariyyah. They say that Jacob lived at Nibulus; and, according to another account, the pits where the meeting between Joseph and his biyiiizua by GoOgle 466 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. biethren took place, was at a place between Nftbulus and the village called Sinjil (see p. 477)." (VAk.» ii 18; Mar., i. 237.) Joseph's Pit was visited by Ibn Batfitah, who describes it as lying between Tabariyyah and Bairfit " The pics,** he writes, " lie in the court of a small mosque, and are both large and deep. We drank the water therefrom ; and this ih of the nvcT ( Jordan), and also, as the guardian told us, from springs " (I. B., 1. 133.) Jubb Yusuf to Jianiyas (Muk.), i march, or 2 stages : to Tabariyyah (Muk.), i march; to Kariyat al 'Uy(in (Muk.), 2 marches. JUHB AL Kai.h (The Doc's Pit).— "The name ofavilla;4c near Halab. When anyone who is stung (by a scorpion or snake) drinks before forty days are passed of the water of the Pit here, he will he cured. But if more than forty days have gone by, then he will die, ns would otherwise happen to him it he did not drink of this pit There is at this pit a fine marble tank." (Y4k., ii 18 ; Mar,, L 237.} Al Jubbah. — " A village belonging to Tarlbaltis. (Tripoli) in Syria." (Y&k., ii. 32 ; Mar., L 240.) Jubbah 'Usail. — **A district lying between Damascus and Ba'albakk, which comprises many villages/' (Y4k., ii. 31 ; Mar., i, 240.) Jui.AijAL. — "A station on the desert road out of Damascus, before reaching Al Kariyatain. It lies 2 inarches from Uainascus. There is a Khan here, and I, YakCit, have passed there many times." (Yak., ii. loy ; Mar., i, 262.) Jui.hAt. — " A district of the Lukkam Mountains, lying between Antakiyyah and Mar'asli. A battle took place here l>etween Saif ad Daulah, and the Greeks (Crusaders)." (Yak., ii. 97 ; Mar., i. 260.) JUM*. — "A castle in the Wadi Musa (Petra), in the Jnhal ash Sharah, near Ash Shaubak." (Yak,, ii. 118 ; Mar., i. 264,) Al JOmah.--''A district of Halab." (Y4k., iL 159; Mar.» i- 273.) JOniyyah. — "A fortress on the sea. Its inhabitants are Jacobite Christians.'' (Id., 17, writing in 1154 a.d.) biyiiizca by Google AL yURyUMAH^KADAS, 467 "Juniyyah," says YikQt, "is a town of the dependencies of Taribulus, on the coast of the Damascus Province." (V4k., ii. .160 ; Mar., L 174.) Jdniyyah to Nahr al Kalb (Id), 4 miles ; to the Bay of Sulam (Id.), 10 miles. Al JurjCmah. — ^"A town of the Jabal al Lukkdm, near a copperas (Zaj) mine. It lies between Bayyi^ and B(ik& (or Bfikah), in the Province of AntlUciyyah.'* (Bil, 159, copied by Ydk., ii. 55, and Mar., i 248.) JCsiYAH. — " A town in the Hims Province." (Yak., 112.) "Jusiyah," says Yakut, "is a village lying 6 leagues from Hims, on the road tu I ^uiuascus. It lies between the Lebanon and Sanir mountains. It is one of the Kfirahs (or districts) of Hims, and has water in plenty, and near it are many farms.'* (Yak., ii. 154 ; Mar., i. 272.) JCisiyah to Hims (Muk.), i march, or (I. K.) 10 leaguei»j to Ya'ath (Muk.), i march ; to Kaik (1. K.), 3 leagues. JuzAZ, OR JizAz. — " A place in the neighbourhood of Kinnasrln. It is also said to be a mountain of Syria, lying i night's march from the Euphrates." (Y&k., ii. 69 ; Mar., L 252.) KabOl (Cabul). — A town in the coast district It has fields of sugar-canes, and they make there excellent sugpr— better than in all the rest of Syria.*' (Muk., 162.) The Cabul of Joshua xix. 27, and the Chabolo of Josephus» ** KSbCil,'* says 'All of Herat, " is a village where they say are buried two of the sons of Jacob, namely, ROmfn (Reuben) and Simeon." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 31.) ** Kabul," writes the author of the Marasid^ *' is a village lying between 'labariyyalj and 'Akka in tiie Jordan Province." (Mar., ii. 469.) KabOn. — " A place i mile from Damascus, lying in the mielst of gardens on the Irak road. It is a village," adds the author of the Mardsid^ ** with a market and Khan \vherc caravans stop." (Yak., iv. 5 ; Mar., ii. 375.) The Mardsid spells the name Kabflr. Kadas (1) (Kadesh Naphthali). — " A town in the Jordan Province, and a very fine place." (Yb., ix^.) 30 — 2 biyuizua by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, " Kadas," says Mukaddasi, " is a small town on the slope of the mountain. It is full of good things. Jabal 'Amilah is the district which is in its neighbourhood. The town possesses three springs from which the people drink, and they have a hath situated below the city. The mos(]ue is in the market, and in its court is a palm-tree. The climate of this place is very hot Near Kadas is the (Hulah) Lake." (Muk., i6i,) Kadas to Baniyas (Muk.), 2 stages; to Tabariyyah (Muk.), I inarch ; to SOr ( Tyre) (Muk.), 2 stages ; to the Lebanon Moun- tains (Muk.), I march. Kadas (2). — "A town in (Northern) Syria, near Hims. Adja cent to this town is the Buhairah Kadas (I^e of Hims, or of Kadas). Kadas was first conquered by (the Arab general) ShurahbiL" (Yik., iil 39 ; Mar., ii. 391.) Al KadOm. — **This is reported to have been the village in Syria where Abraham circumcised himself. And he was the first to perform this rite. It is now the name of a village near Halab, and here is the Majlis Ibrthfm (Abraham's Assembly). There is a tradition of the Prophet to this effect." (Vak., iv. 39 ; Mar., ii. Ai. K..\F. — " A fortified ca.stle on the Syrian Coast. It belonged to a man railed Ibn 'Amrun in the days of the i rank dominion." (Vak., iv. 329 ; Mar., ii. 473.) K afar. — " Among the jjeopie of Syria this word," says Yakijt, "has the signilication of Kariyah^ or village." (Yak., iv. 286.) Kafar 'Akib. — "A village on the Lake of Tiberias, in the Jordan Province. It is mentioned in the poems of Al Mutanabbi." (Y^k., iv. 290; Mar, ii. 504.) Kafar 'Amm.a.— "A place in the Desert of Khas^f, between Balis and Halab." (Y&k., iii. 716 ; Mar., ii. 277 ) Kafar BarIk. — *'A village near Hebron, where is seen the tomb of Lot" (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 42, v.) SuyCiti writes : The Shaikh Abu *Ukbah 'Abd Allah ibn Muhammad, the Hantfite, of Marv, says, I have read in certain of the lives of the prophets that Lot lies buried in a village called Kafar Bartk, situated about a league from Masjid al Khaltl (Hebron), and that in the cave to the west, beneath the Old biyiiizca by Google KAFAR BASAU—KAFAR KANNAH. 469 Mosque of this place, lie sixty prophets, of whom twenty were also Apostles. And Lot's tomb has been a place of MMiaiion and \c deration from aiu leiu limes, the men of the age succeeding those who have gone before." (S., 295 ; M. a. D., 67.) Kaf>" i3.\SAL. — " A village of Syria." (Yak., i. 655 ; Mar., i. 157.) Kaf\r Batna. — "A village of the Ghautah of Damascus, in the iklim (or District) of U4'iyyah. Some people of the Omayyad family lived here." (Yak., tv. 286; Mar., ii. 502.) Kafar Dubhin. — '»A fortress near Ant&kiyyah." (YAk., iv. 288 ; Mar., ii. 503.) Kafar Ghamma. — ** A tract of country lying between Khus4f and fi^is, in the Halab District'' (Ydk., iv. 290 ; Mar., ii. 504.) Kafar Kannah (Cana of Galilee). — Ndsir-i-Khusrau visited this village in 1047. He writes in his Diary : I next proceeded to a village that is called Ka^ Kannah. To the southward of this village is a hill, on the top of which they have built a fine monastery. It has a strong gate, and the tomb of the Prophet Yfinis (Jonas) — peace be upon him I — is shown within. Near by the gate of the monastery is a well, and the water thereof is sweet and good. W hen I had made my visitation at this place, I came on thenee to Acre, which is 4 leagues distant, and remained in that city for a dav." (N. kh., 19.) 'I'hrs Knfar K -iiDah is one of the rival sites identified by eccle- siastical tradition with the Cana of Galilee of St. John li. i-ii. The ruins of a church are still shown in the neighbourhood, and probably formed part of the monastery referred to by Nasir. ** Ka£ar Kannah," says 'Ali of Herat, is where may be seen the Station of Jonas (Makim YOnis), also the tomb of his son." This is repeated by Y&kdt (Y&k., iv. 290 ; and Mar., il 504X who, however, speaks of the tomb as that of the Father of Yiinis. '* Kafar Kannlll,'' says Dimashki, is not lar from Hatdn. It is a large village in whidi live the chie6 of various tribes, and many head men. and they are all very turbulent and warlikCi The head tribe is called Kais al Hamrd (Kais the Red). To Kafiu- Kann^ belongs the district of the Buttaiif. which goes by the nanie of Marj al Ghark (the Drowned Meadow), l liis is sur- biyiiizua by GoOgle 470 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, rounded on all sides by hills, and the waters drain into it from evLry part, so that the rains collecting here form a temporary lake, from which all the surrounding lands are irrigated. As soon as this lake dries up, they sow the land with grain, just as they do in Egypt." (Dim., 212.) Kakar KIla. — "A place lying a day's march from Tabariyyah." (Muk., 191.) Kafar LAb. — ** A town on the coast of Syria, near Kaisariyyah (Ca^area). It was built by the Khalif Hishani ibn 'Abd al MaliL" (Y4k., iv. 290 ; Mar., ii. 504.) Kafar LahthA. — "A village of the 'Aziz District, near Halab." (VSk,, iv. 291 ; Mar., ii. 504.) Kafar LAthA. — A town vrith a Friday Mosque standing on the slopes of the Jabol 'Amilah, in the Halab District, and a day's distance from this last city. It has gardens and running water. Its ]ieoplc are of the Ismailian Sect." (YAk., iv. 291 ; Mar., ii. 504-) Kafar Mandah. — *'A village l}Hig between Tal) iriyyah and 'Akkah. It is said also to be called b\ the name Mad\an (Midian). The tomb of the wife of Mosch ib seen here. Also the pit covered by the rock which Moses raised up in order to give himself and his wife of water to drink The rock is still shown. At Kafar Mandah may also be seen the tomb of two of the sons of Jacob, namely, of Ashir (Asher), and NafsbAli (Naph- thali), as it is reported." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 30, v. ; repeated by Yak., iv. 291 ; Mar., ii. 504.) VAkikt, after mentioning the second name^ Madyan, or Midian, adds : *' This is the place mentioned in the Kurin, but, as it is well known, Midian lies east of Tiir (Sinai)." He also gives the name of the wife of Moses as " SafQri (Zipporah). daughter of Shu'aib (Jethro)." Kafar MuthrI. — A village of Syria. I think it is of the Ftlastin Province.** (YAk., iv. 291 ; Mar., ii. 504.) Kafar NabiJ. — *' The name of a place mentioned in the Pen- tateuch (Nebo). Nabfi is tlic naine of an idol that stood there. The place is near Halab, and there are ancient remains still to be seen there, and a mighty and large dome which they call the I I biyiiizca by Google KAFAR NAGHD.—KAFAR SALLAM, 471 Dome of the Idol (JCMaias Sanmn)" (YIUc., tv. api ; also ii. 305 ; Mar., ii. 505.) There are three Nebos mentioned in the Bible ; Mount Nebo ; the Nebo mentioned in Numbers xxxii. 3 (possibly a place on the Mount) ; and the Xcho of K/ra ii. 29, proi)al)ly the present village of Nul^a, suuih of Jerusalem. None of these correspond with Kafar Nabu near Aleppo. Kafar Naghd. — A village of Hims." (\ ak., iv. 292 ; Mar., ii. 505.) Kai ar Najd.- -**A large village belonging to Halai), lying in the Jabal as Summak. There is here a spring of running water that has certain wonderful (emetic) properties. For when some- thing is stuck in the throat of a man, or, too^ in that of a beast, and he be made to drink of this water, after the water has re- mained in (his stomach) some time, he — by God's permission — will be able to cast forth the obstruction. And those who have tried the remedy have related this to me.** (Yftk., iv. 291 ; Mar., 505) Kafar Rinnis. — A village near Ar Ramlah." (Y^., iv. 288 ; Mar., ii. 503.) The MarAad spells the name Kafar Zinnis. Kafar ROmA. — A village of Ma'arrah an Nu'mdn. It was once a celebrated fortress, but was ruined by as Saifi, who conquered Halab in 393 (1003)." (Yak., iv. 288 ; Mar., ii. 503.) Kakar Saba. — "A large village with a mosque, lying on the high-road (from Ar Kamlah) to namasnis." (Muk., 176.) ** Kafar Saba," says YakQt, " is a village 1\ in^ between Nabulus and Kaisariyyah (Csesarea of Faiestme). ' (Yak., iv. 288 ; Mar., ii. 503-) Kafar Saba to Al Lajjtin (Muk.), by the Post-road, i march ; to Ar Ramlah (Muk ), i march ; to Kalansuwah (Muk.), 1 march; to Kaisariyyah (Muk.), i march. Kafar Sabt. — "A village between Tabariyyah and .\r Ramlah, situated near 'Akabah (the Pass above) Tiberias." (Y^k^ iii. 29 ; iv. 288 ; Mar , iL 8, 503.) Kafar Sallam. — **()ne of the villages of the district of Csesarea. It is very populous, and has a mosque. It lies on the high-road (irom Ar Ramlah northwards)." (Muk., 177.) biyuizua by Google 472 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. "Kafar Sallam,' says \ akut, "is n village of the Filastin Pro- vince, lying between Nabulus and Kaisariyvah. and 4 leagues from Kaisariyyah. ' (Yak., iv. 288 : Mar., ii. 503.) Kafar Sall4m to Ar Ramlah (Muk.), i march; to Nabulus (Muk.), 1 march; to Kaisariyyah (Muk.), 1 march, or (Yak.), 4 leagues. The name of Kafar Sallim has completely disappeared from the maps, although, from the distances given by the Axab geographers, its position may be determined within very narrow limits. Ydkfit states that Kafar Sallam is 4 farsakhs (leagues) from Kaisa- riyyah, on the road to N&bulus. Al Mukaddasi places it i march from N&bulus, I from Kaisariyyah, and i from Ar Ramlah. It cannot have been &r from Kafar S4b^ with which place it is con- founded by N^^sir-i-Khusrau, but its position as regards this last I have been unable to deterniinc. Nasir-i-Khusrau mentions in- cidentally that it (K.Llar Sallam. ur Kafar Sviba) is 3 farsakhs (leagues) from Ar Ramlah. According to the Chronicle of Mari- anus Scottus, in 1064, a.I)., Siegfried, Archbishop of Main/, who. in company with the Bishops of Utrecht, Bamberg and Ratisbon, was condncting a great company of pilgrims to the Holy City, was set upon in these parts by the wild Arabs, and took refuge in a " castellum vacuum Cavar Salim nomine/' from whence they were delivered by the Governor of Ramlah. The passage is given in the original I^tin in a note (p. 63) to M. Schefer's Translation of Nisir-i-Khusrau. M. Schefer supposes Cavar Salim to be Ka£tr SalUm, which, he adds, was abandoned by its inhabitants in the eleventh century. Sir C. Wilson would identify Kafox Salldm with the modem Bis al 'Ain, the Antipatris of Acts xxiii. 3r, and the Casde Mirabel of the Crusading Chronicles. Kafar SOsiyvah. — *'A village of the Damascus Province in Syria." (Y^k., iv. 288; Mar., ii. 503.) From the many eminent men who are mentioned as having been natives of this place, it was evidently once an important town. Possibly the same as SCisiyyah (see below), the ancient Hippos. Kafar SOt. — " A town near Rahasnn, of the Halab District. At the present day (thirteenth century) there is liere a fine market, which is much frequented." (Yak., iv. z&H ; Mar., ii. 503.) biyiiizca by GoOgle KA FA R J A B. —KA INI YA //. 473 Kafar Tab.— '*A small town lying between Ma'anah and Halab. It stands in a thirsty desert plain, and they have no water except what they store of the rains in cisterns. I have been told that some people here dug down for 300 ells, and found no spring of water." (Ynk , iv. 28^: M ir., n. 50^^.) Kafar Tab is mentioned by \'a'kubi (Yb., 112), and by Mukad- dasi (Muk., 154), as a town of the Hims Province; and Nasir-i- Khusrae passed through it in 1047. (N. Kh., 5.) *' Kafar 'lYib," writes Ahu-1 Fida, "is a town 50 small as lo i)e like a village, where there is but little water. They make here earthenware pots, which are exported to all surrounding countries. It is the chief town of the district, and has dependencies. It lies on the road half-way between Ma'arrah and Shaizar, 12 miles from either place.'' (A. F., 263.) Ka£u^ T4b to Shai2ar (Muk.)^ i march ; to Kinnasrin (Muk.), I march. Kafar TakIs.— **The name of one of the districts of Hims." (Ydk., iv. 287 ; Mar,, ii. 502.) Kapar TCtha. — " A village in the Province of Filastln It was of old, says Btlidhuri,- a strong fortress. The fomily of Abu Kamthah settled there, and it became a town, and they fortified it" (Yak., iv. 287; Mar., ii. 503.^ Kafariyyah. — A village of Syria." (Yak., iv. 292 ; Mar., ii. Kahatan. — "A place in Syria." (Yak., iv. 331; Mar., it 526.) Al Kaibar. — • A fortress lying between Ant4kiyyah and the Thughiir (or Frontier Fortresses). ' (Yak., iv. 211; Mar., ii. 465.) KaimOn.— " A fortress near Ar Ramlah of the Province of Filastln." (YaL, iv. 218; Mar., ii. 468.) Probably the Ka/t/imi of the Onomasticon, said to be 6 miles to the north of Legia According to a passage in the Chronicle of Ibn al Athir (xiL 34), Kaimiin lies 3 leagues from Acre. Pos- sibly the Camon of Judges x. 5. Kadiiyah. — ** This was in old da) s a village over agRinst the Bhb as Saghir at Damascus, but it has become gardens now (thirteenth century)." (Yak., iv. 2iy ; Mar., ii. 468.) biyiiizca by GoOgle 474 PALESliNE U\\DEH THE MOSLEMS, Kaisariyyah (CiCSARBA OF PALESTINE). — '^Thedty stands on the sea^shore, and is one of the strongest places in Palestine. It was the last city to be taken at the Arab Conquest, and it was gained by Mu'iwiyah during the Khalifate of 'Omar/* (Yb., ii6.) ** Kaisariyyah," says Mukaddasi, " lies on ihc coast of the Greek (or Mediterr.in in ; Sea. Tliere is no city more beautiful, nor any better filled wiiii guod things; plenty has its well-spring here, and useful products are on every hand. Its lands are excellent, and its fruits delicious ; the town also is famous for its buffalo-milk and its white bread. To guard the city is a strong wall, and without it lies the well-populated suburb, which the fortress pro- tects. The drinking-water of the inhabitants is drawn from wells and cisterns. Its great mosque is very beautiful." (Muk., 174.) Cassarea was visited in 1047 by Nlisir-i-Khusrau. The Persian traveller writes in his Diary : Kaisariyyah lies 7 leagues distant from Acre. It is a fine city, with running waters, and palm^gardens, and orange and citron trees. Its walls are strong, and it has an iron gate. There are fountains that gush out within the city ; also a beautiful Friday Mosque, so situated that in its court you may sit and enjoy the view of all that is passing on the sea. There is preserved here a vase made of marble, that is like to Chinese porcelain, and it is of a size to contain 100 Manns' weight of water (or about 34 gallons). On Saturday, the last day of the month of Sha'aban (February 29), we set forth again, travelling over the sand that is of the kind aforesaid, called Mekkah sand, and came shortly to a place when 1 saw many fig-trees and olives ; for all the road here lies thruu^^h a country of hills and valleys." (N. Kh., 20.) " Kaisariyyah,"* as Idrisi reports, is a veiy large town, having also a populous suburb. Its fortiAcations are impregnable." (Id., II.) Kaisariyyah," says YiUcfit, in the thirteenth century, *' is a city of the Syrian coast in the Filasttn Province. It lies three days* march from Tabariyyah. It was of old a fine, grand city, the very mother of cities, with broad lands and wide domains ; but now it is more like a village." (Y4k., iv. 214 ; Mar., ii. 466.) biyiiizua by Google KAISUM.-^KALA'AT AR RUM, 475 Abu-1 FidA adds nothing to the above, merely stating that in his days (1321) Csesarea was in ruins. (A. F., 239.) Kaisariyyah to Ar Raralah (Ls., 1. H.), 1 day, (Id.) 2 bhorl or 1 long inarch, (1. K.) 24 miles, (A, F.) 32 miles ; to Kafar Sallam (Muk.), I march; to Kafar SAbd (Miik.), i march; to Arsuf (Muk.), i march ; to Kanisah (Muk.), i march ; to Y^fd (Id.), 30 miles: to Nahnlus (Id ), i march ; to Haifa (Id.), 2 days; to Al Lajjun (1. K.), 20 milcii. KaisCm. — A village of the district of Sumaisat. There is a market here, and the shops are well filled. Above the village is a fort on a height. The gardens and water of KaisQm are cele- brated" (Y4k., iv. 3J3 ; Mar., ii. 528.) KakhtA.— "This place," writes Abu-1 Fid4, "in the extreme north of Syria, is a very high-built castle, and quite impregnable. It has gardens and a river, and lies 2 days east of Malatyah. It is one of the fortresses of Islam, of the north frontier, and lies about a march north, and somewhat west of Hisn MansOr." (A. F., 263.) KAK<!rN. — ** A fortress of the Filast!n Province, near Ar Ramlah. It is reckoned as of the district of Kaisariy)ah on the coast of Syria. ' ( Yak., iv. 18: Mar., ii. 380.) This is the Caco, Chaco, or Quaquo of Crusading ('hroniclcs. Ai. Kal'ah (The Cam ll).- The name of a mine where they obtain excellent lead. Said to lie in a mountain m Syria." (Y4k., iv. 162 ; Mar., ii. 440.) Kala'at Abi-l-Hasa\. — *'A large castle on the coast near Said4, in Syria. It was taken by Saladin." (Y4k., iv. 162 ; Mar., ii. 441.) Kala'at ar ROm (The Greek Castle). — '* A well fortified castle, lying to the west of the Euphrates, opposite Al BIrah, and situated between this last and Sumaisat. It was in former times the seat of the Armenian Patriarch, the Khaltfah (Vicegerent) of the Messiah, whom they call in Armenian KaidghMs (Catholicus). He claims to be a descendant of David, it is at present (thir- teenth century) in the hands of the Muslims — thanks be to Allah !" (V4k., iv. 164 : Mar., it. 442.) **Kala*at ar Rum," says Abu-1 Fida, "in the Kinnasrin Pro- biyuizua by Google 476 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEM vince^ has suburbs and gardens and fruit-trees. There is a river here called Marzuban (I^e Marquis), which comes down from the mountains, and flows into the Euphrates near the fort The Euphrates runs at the foot of the fort, and it is a very strong and impregnal)le place. The Sultm Malik al Ashraf, son of Sultan Kala'un, took it from the Armenians. It lies south-west of the Euphrates, about a marc li west of Al Birah, to the east of Sumaisdt, and south of Ar Kuha (Edessa), but not far from any of these." (A. F., 269.) KalamCn (Calamos). — Visited by Nasir in 1047, who writes : ** It is a fortress lying a league south of Tripoli." (N. Kh., &♦> The Calamos of Pliny, and the Calamon of Polybius. " Hisn al Kalamun," says Idrisi, *' lies at a bridge which spans a WadL This bridge is extremely broad, and the fort was built to protect it It is an impregnable places and stands on the shore of a Gay of the sea." (Id., 16.) YdkAt speaks of Al KalamAn as "a village in the Damascus Province of Syria." (YSk.» iv. r66 ; Mar«» iL 444.) Hisn Kalamdn to Al Jiyyah (Id.), about 5 miles ; to Hisn an NA'imah (Id ), 7 miles. Kalamvah. — "A broad KOrah (or district) in the Greek country, lying to the west of i arsus, but not on the sea. One of the gates of Tarsus is called liab Kalaiiiyah." (Vak., iv. 166 ; Mar., ii. 444.) Kalansitwah ('I'he Casti.k of Plans, of i hi: Ckusai>kks). — *' A fortress near Ar Ramlah, in the Filastin Province. Many of the Omayyads were slain here." (Vdk., iv. 167 ; Mar., ii. 444-) Kalansuwah to Al Lajjiin (Muk.), i march; to Ar Ramlah (Muk.), I march ; to Kafar S4b4 (Muk.) i march. KalCdhiyah. — *' A fortress that stood near Malatyah. Ptolemy, the author of the Almagest, was called by the name of it It was dismantled, and then rebuilt in the year 141 (758), in the times of the Khalif Al MansQr." (Yik., iv. 167 ; Mar., ii. 445 ; copied from I. F., 1 14.) Kamraw. — ♦* A village of the Haurl^ Province." (Ylk., iv. 1 73 ; Mar, ii. 448.) biyiiizua by Google KAirAS,^AL KANISAH AS SAUDA. 477 Kan'an. — "The name of the place where Jacob lived. The village here is called Sailun (Shiloh). It lies between Sinjil and Nibulus, on the right of the road. There is here the pit into which Joseph was thrown." (Y&k., iv. 516 ; Mar., iL 515.) (See above, p. 466.) Al KAKtSAH (The Church). — *' Leaving Haii3,'' writes Nasir- i-Khtisrau in his Dtaiyi "we proceeded on to a viUage called Kantsah; and beyond this the road leaves the sea-shore and enters the hills, going eastward through a stony deseit place» which is known under the name of W4dt Tamdsih (or the Valley of Crocodiles). After passing 2 leagues, however, the road turns back, and goes once more along the sea l>cai h, and in these parts I saw great quantities of the bones of marine monsters, set in the earth and rlay, and become, so to speak, petrified by the action of the waves that beat over them.' (N. Kh.. 20.) Tall Kanisah, or Al Kimnisnh, the Little Church, is the mound, a few miles north of 'Athlith, which the Crusaders took to be the site of Capernaum. It is mentioned by Mukaddasi, who states that firom Al Kantsah to Akk^ is t march ; and to Kaisariyyah 1 march. Al KANtSAH AS Sauda (Thb Black Church). — ''This was built of black stones in the days of the Greeks. There is a very ancient fortress near by. The Khalif ar Rashtd it was who ordered the building of the town of Al Kantsah as Saudd, and he commanded that it should be fortified and garrisoned.'* (Bil., 171 ; I. F., 113.) " Al Kantsah is a fortress in which there is a Friday Mosque ; it lies at some distance from the sea-shore.'* (Is., 63 ; I. H., 121.) Al Kanisah is a small town amongst the Thughur, or Frontier I'ort'essc.N, of Al Massissah. It is called Kanisah Sauda, for it is built with black stones. It was built by the Creeks in ancient times, and there was here of old a well fortified fortrc -.s. \^hi(-h had gone to ruin when u\c Khalif ar Rashid ordered it to be rebuilt and re-fortitied as aforetimes." (Yak., iv. 314 ; Mar., ii. 517.) " Al Kanisah as Sauda," says kh\i-\ Fida, " lies in the Armenian country, 12 miles from Haruniyyah." (A. F., 235.) Al Kanisah as SaudA to Bayyds (Is., I. H.), less than i day. biyuizua by Google 47« PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. KANisAH AS Sui H (The Church OF THE Peace). — "This place is so called because the Greeks who came with peace to HdrOn ar Rashtd, lodged here." (BiL, 170.) Possibly ideniical with the preceding. Kantarah SinAh.— A bridge near hkb TiktnA (the Gate of St Thomas), at Damascus." (Y&k., iv. 190 ; Mar.» il 455.) Al KJInOn. — '*A post-house between Damascus and Ba*a]- bakk." {Y4k., iv. 21 ; Mar., li, 381,) Al KArah, or KArA (Chara).>— Visited by Ibn Jubair in 1185. He speaks of it as "a large village lying north of Damascus, and inhabited solely by Christians, who dwell here under a treaty. No Muslims are to be found in the place. In the village is a large Khan, which is a court with high walls, in the middle of whu h is a great tank full of water, which runs into it underground, from a spring that is some way off. This tank is never empty." (I. J., 260.) The place is also mentioned by Yalcubi and MukaddasL (Yb., 112 ; Muk., 190.) Kirah," writes Yakut, is the name of a large village on the road from Hims to Damascus. It is the first stage out from Hims, and lies on the limit of the Hims District. What is beyond it (south) is of the Damascus District The village stands on RSs Kirah (the Head of Kirah). Its inhabitants are all Christians, and it possesses flowing streams, which water all the fields round." (Y&k., iv. 12 ; Mar., ii. 377.) ^* K&rah," says Abu-1 FidI, is a large village halfway between Damascus and Hims. It is a station for the caravans. Most of its inhabitants are Christians. It lies 1} marches from Hims, and 2 marches from Damascus." (A. F., 229.) Kara to Sliamsin (Muk.), i march : to .^n Nabk (Muk., I. K.), 12 miles; to JOsiyyah (I. K.), 30 miles. Kaka Hi>ak. — *' .\ large meadow {ma'J) lying to the north of Halal), where Saladin once camped. There are many other jjlaces called Kard Hisar. One, a town oi the Greek provinces, a day s journey from .^ntioch, while another lies near Kaisariy)'ah (Cnesarea of Cappadocia) ; but all these are in the Greek country." (Y4k., iv. 44; Mar., ii. 394.) biyiiizca by KARADA.—AL KARAK, OR AL KARK. 479 Kakada. — "A village of Damascus." (Yak., iv 56; Mar., it 308.) K \ \HTA.-"A village of Damascus." (Yik, iv., 53; Mar., ii. 397-) Al Karak, or Al Kark (i). — This celebrated fortress of the Crusades, called Le Krak, or Petra Deserti, stood at the southern end of the Dead Sea. The fortress was built in 1142 by Payen, King Fulk's cup-bearer. This Al Karak is not mentioned by the Arab geographen before Y^iit^s days. It occupies the position of Kir Moab of Isaiah xv. i, for which name the Targum reads *'Keiak." Karak is a corruption of the Syriac Katko^ meaning ••fortress." " Al Karak,'* says Y^fit, " is a very strongly fortified castle on the borders of Syria, towards the BalkA Province, and in the mountains. It stands on a rock surrounded by Wddfs, except on the side toward the suburb. Al Karak is situated midway between Jerusalem and Ailah, on the Red Sea. It stands on a high hill." (Yak., iv. 262 : Mar, ii. 490 ) " Al Karak." says Ahu-1 Fida, " i.s a celebrated town uiili a very high fortress, one of the most unassailable of the fortresses of Syria. About a day's march from it is MCitah, where are the tombs of Ja'afar at Tayyar (see below, p. 510) and his companions. Below Al Karak is a valley, in which is a thermal bath (Hammdm), and many gardens with excellent fruits, such as aprkots, pears, pome- granates, and others .M Karak lies on the borders of Syria, coming from the Hijjii^. Between Al Karak and Shaubak (Mont Real) is about 3 days' march." (A. F., 347.) " Karak," says Dimashki, is an impregnable fortress, standing high on the summit of a mountain. Its fosses are the valleys around it, which are very deep. They say it was originally, in Roman days, a convent^ and was turned into a fortress. It is now (fourteenth century) the treasure-house of the Turks. Of its dependencies is Ash Shaubak (Mont Real), a well fortified town, with truiib m plenty, and copious springs." (Dim., 213.) Knrak was visited, in 1355. hy the traveller Ibn Batt^tah. He wnic.-> of it : "Al Karak is one of the stron<^est and most cele- brated fortresses of Syria, it is called also Hisn al Ghurab (the biyiiizuo by GoOgle 48o PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Crow M I' ortrcss), and is surrounded on every side by ravines. ' There is unlv one gateway, and that enters In a passage tunnelled in the live rock, which tunnel tornis a sort ot hall. We sLayed four days outside Karak, at a place called Ath Thaniyyah (' The Pass')." (I. B., i. 255.) Ai. Kar.\k NCh (2), (Kakak of Noah). — "A village near Ba'albakk. There is here the tomb of Noah, also the tomb of Hablah, the daughter of Noah. This Al Karak U close to a viUage they call 'Aijamush.** (A. H.» Oxf. MS., folio 15^ verso ; copied by YSk., iv. 263.) **Kear Karak Nfih," says Dimashki, *Ms a place where tbeivater rises up bubbling from the ground ; it is called Tanniir at TCkfin, *The Cataract of the Deluge.* Near by this is a plantain-tree {Dulb\ of a size of trunk and branches that few other plantains can equal. There is also at Karak Nfth a grave, cut in the rock, 51 paces long, which is said to be that of Noah." (Dim., 199.) The author of the Marastd (given in Yak., v. 28), says : ** In Syna are three places, all called Al Karak. One is near As Suwaid, on the road to .M Marin, in the Province of Filastin. ( The second ) is near Tabariyyah, (and the third is) a place between Ba'albakk and Damascus." Karak (3).— Karak, or Kark, is spoken of by Yak (it as *'a village at the foot of the Lebanon mountains." (\ ak., iv. 261 : Mar., ii. 490.) This, presumably, is identical with Karak NAh« above. Karatayva. — ''A town near Bait Jibrtn, in the Province of Filasttn. It belongs to Jerusalem." (Yak.,«iv. 53; Mar., it. 397) Karawa(i) — **AviUagcoftheGhaur,"saysYakat,in 1225, ''in the Jordan Province. They grow at this place excellent sugar, and I have been there many times.*" (Ydk., iv. 51 ; Mar., ii. 396.) Karawa Bam Hassan (2). — "A village ot the Ndbulus Dis- trict." (IcUm.) Karivat af. 'Tnab (The (iRAi'E Villa<;k, Kirjaih Jkakim). — Passed by Nasir-i-Khusrau in 1047. He writes in his Diary ; biyiiizua by Google KARIYAT AL 'JNAB.-^KASHAFRiD. 481 By the wayside I noticed, in quantities, plants of Rue (Sadaif), which grows here of its own accord on these hills, and in the desert places. In the village of Kahyat-^-'Inab there is a fine spring of sweet water gushing out from under a stone^ and they have placed all round troughs, with small buildings contiguous (for the shelter of travellers). From this village we proceeded onward, the road leading upward to Jerusalem." (N. Kb., 22.) This village, now known as Abu Ghaush, is said to be the Biblical "Baalah, which is Kirjath Jearim*' — ^Joshua xv. 9. It is the place mentioned, presumably, by Mukaddasi under the name of Baii»ah. (See p. 306.) Kariyat al' UyCn (The Village of the Springs). — ** From Kariyat al' Uyun to Jubb Vusuf (Joseph's Pit) is 2 marches. And to Kar un is i march." (Muk., 191.) This represents the JjoH of I Kings XV. 20. It is at the present day called Tell Dibbin, and stands in the plain of Merj 'AyyOn. (Robinson, jRestarc/us, 1852, p. 375.) Ai. Kariyatain. — "A large village belonging to Hims, and on the desert road. It lies between Hims, Sukhnah and Arak. Its population are all Christians. It is also known as Huwwdrain. (See p. 456.) It is 2 marches from Tadmur (Palmyra)." (Ydk., iv. 77 ; Mar., ii. 406.) Karkar. — Abu-1 Fid& writes: "Karkar is among the most celebrated of the Syrian frontier fortresses. It is a high-built and well fortified castle. From it you may see the Euphrates far away like a thread. It lies to the west of that river. It is one of the strongest of the Syrian fortresses, and lies not far from and to the east of Kakhtl" (A. F., 265. Noticed by Yik., iv. 262.) Kar'On. — " From Kar On to Kariyat al *Uyun is i march. And to 'Ain al Jarr is i march." (Muk., 191.) Karn al Hamirah. — **A village of Damascus." (Mar., ii. 404.) KASHAFkiix — " A town lying amony; the mountains of Halab. It is a stronghold. A nmn of this jilace gave himself out as a prophet in the year 561 (i 166), and many believed in him. The Syrian army went against him, and they slew him and his com- 3« biyuizua by Google 482 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. panions. Thus Allah saved the trae believers from his guiles." (Yak., iv. 377 ; Mar., ii. 500.) KAsiyCn (Mount Casius). — "The mountain overhanging Damascus (to the north). In it are numerous caves, in which are some relics of the prQ[)hets, and the tombs of the pious." According to the author of the Mardsid, " KdsiyAn is to-day a great quarter of Damascus extending to the skirt of the hill. There are seen here many tombs and colleges. In the suburb are two mos(iues where thi v say the !• riday [)rayers. also a hospital and a market. The first inhabitants who settled here were people of Jerusalem, who fled f rom theiKC when that city was taken by the Franks before the days when Salad in retook it. And they came and dwelt here, and many otlicrs have followed. There is in jabal Kasiyi'in a cave called Magbarat ad Dam, the Cave of Blood, where, they say, Cain slew his brother Abel. And there is a mark as of blood, which they say is the blood of Abel, re- maining to the present time, but dried up. There is also a stone, like a stone that has been thrown by a person, which they say is the stone which split Abel's head. There is also here the Cave of Famine (Maghdrat al Jau'), where forty prophets died of hunger." (Y5k., iv. 14 ; Mar., ii. 378.) (See above, p. 252.) Kasr Bani *Omar. — '* A village of the Chautah of Damascus.'^ (YSk., iv. 110; Mar , ii. 419.) Kasr Hajjaj. — "The name of a large quarter of Damascus, outside the gates called Bab as Saghir and Bab al Jabiyah. It is called after Hajjaj, son of 'Abd al Malik ibn Marwan. ' (Yak., iv. 1 10 ; Mar., ii. 419.) Ka >R Haifa. — "A f)lace lying between Haifa and Kaisariyyab (Ciesarea of Palestine)." (Vak., iv. no; Mar., ii. 419.) Kasr Umm HakJm. ".\ palace in the Marj as Suffar ot Damascus. Umm Hakim was the wife of the Khalif Hishani, son of 'Abd al Malik, and she was the mother of the Khalif Vazid. Suk (the market of) Umm Hakim, in Damascus, is called after her." (Y&k., iv. 108 ; Mar., ii. 418.) Kasr Ya'kOb. — " A place which lies on the road from Taha- nyyah to Biniy&s. It is where Jacob wept for the loss of Joseph, and the pit into which the latter was thrown is near here. biyiiizua by Google AL KASTAl^-^KAWVS. 483 According to a more trustworthy account, the pit of Joseph is near a village called Sinjil on the Jerasalem road." (A. H., Oxf. MS.y folio 29.) (See above^ pp. 466, 477.) Al Kastal (i). — "A place between Hitns and Damascus where the caravans stop. It is said to be the name of the K0rah (or district)." (Vftk., iv. 95 ; Mar., ii. 411.) From Al Kastal to Salamiyyah (Muk.) is a marches^ or (1. K., Id.) 30 miles; to Ad Dar&*ah (Muk.), 2 marches (I. K., Id), 36 miles. Al K.ASTAI. (2). — "A place near the Halka Province (south of) Damascus, on the road to Al MaUinah." {Idem.) Kastal \% the Aramcan form of the I-atui castcUum^Vi "chdteau d'eau," where water is stored and distributed. Yakut says that " in the language of the people of Syria, Al Kastal signifies a place where waters arc divided." Katan A. " One of the villages of Damascus." (Yak., iv. 1 37 ; Mar., ii. 43 Katt. — " A- town in the Province of Filastin, between Ar Ramlah and Jerusalem." (Yak., iv. 137; Mar., ii. 430.) Kaukah (The STAK).^"The name of a castle on the hill overhanging Tabariyyah. It overlooks the whole of the Jordan Province, It was taken by Saladin, and fell to ruin after his days.** (YSk., iv. 328 ; Mar., ii. 533.) Al KawAthil. — "The name of a place in Syria." The Maraud adds : " It is a station on the high-road from Ar Rahbah to Damascus, where the caravans stop.*' (Yilk , iv. 315; .Mar., ii. 517.) The name signifies •* the stem of a ship." KawCs — " KAwfts to Hebron is i march, and Kiwfts to Sughar is I march." (.Muk., 192.) KawLis, as the name of a place, does not occur on any map, nor apparently is it mentioned hy any Arab geographer except Al Mukaddasi ; furthermore, the reading of the name is not unlikely to be corrupt, for the diacritic powits are wanting in some of the MSS. Hence M. Clermont ( ianneau would propose to read (after making a change in the diacritical points), for KawOs, Zu'airah (Al Faukah), which is a village situated at about the point indicated by Mukaddasi in the present maps. Should, 31 — 2 biyuizua by Google 484 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. however, the reading Kkwds be retained as the right one, it is worthy of remark that the ancient Edomites are said to have worshipped the God Kaus or Kuzah, the God of the War-bow. (See Zeif. DeutKh, MorR. Gesell^ 1849, p. 200 Further, in the time of Esarhaddon, 680 b.c, there is mention made of Kaus Gabri, King of Edom. (See Major Conder's St0nt Lorty p. 172.) Al KavyAr.^" a place lying between Ar Rakkah and Rusd&b Hishim." (Y&k., iv. 211 ; Mar., ii. 464.) KazirIm (in error for Karizim, Gerizim). — " This," writes Yakut, *' is the house of worship of the Samaritans, who are a sect of the Jews, which is at Nabulus. They say that here btood the ahar on which Isaac was offered up (by Abraham). The - Samaritans are very numerous in this place." (Yak., iv. 272 ; Mar., ii. 495.) KlfAr)HKAI){lNAH ( ALSO SPELT KhALKADONAH, KhANKHA- dCnah, and Al GHADKADrxAH). — *'The Hne of Frontier For- tresses to which Adhanah, Al Massissah, Tarsus, and 'Ain Zarbah belong, and it is the name of the territory in which these lie." (Yik., ii. 407, 408, 463 ; Mar., i. 342, 362.) KhairAn.— " A village of Jerusalem." (Y&k., ii. 506 ; Mar. i. 377.) Al Khait. — "A district of the Upper Ghaur of the Jordan Valley. The countiy resembles ihat of 'Ir&k in the matter of its rice, its birdS) its hot springs, and excellent crops." (Dim., 211.) KhammAn. — *'A district of the Bathaniyyah, in the Haudn Province of Syria." (Yftk., ii. 469; Mar., i. 365.) Khan AS Sultan. — *'A station south of Nabk. It was built by Saladin, and lies in a broad j)lain. There are iron gates on all its gateways. In the Khan is running water, brouglit thither undergroiHul to a reservoir like a laiik. This has apertures from which the water Hows out into a small channel running round the tank, and thence overllows into conduits, and so to the ground. The road from Hims to Damascus has but few buildings on it, except in those places where there are Khans." (I. J., 261.) Al KtrANiKAH (The Cloister). — '*The name of the place of worship of the Karr&mite Sect at Jerusalem." (Yik., ii, 393 ; Mar., i. 336.) biyiiizua by Google KHARANBA.^KHUSAF, 485 Kharanua. — " A territory on the road between Halab and the Greek country." (Yak., ii. 428 : Mar., i. 349.) Al KHARRfnAK.— " a fortress on the sea-coast overlooking 'Akkl" (Yak., ii. 428 ; Mar., i. 349.) Al Khashbiyyah. — A mountain near Al Massissah, among the Frontier Fortresses." (Yak., it. 445 ; Mar., i. 354.) HiSN AL KhawabI (The For of the Ewers).—** This fortress lies 15 miles south of Antars0S| by land It is situated on a high mountain, and is an impregnable place. Its people are the Hashishiyyah (Assassins), who are misbelievers in Islam, and be- lieve naught of the Last Day, nor of the resurrection after death — Allah curse their unbelief !'* (Id., 20 ; mentioned by Muk., 154.) KHiSFtN. — A town in the Damascus Province.** (Yb., 1 15.) " A village of the Haurin, on the road down to Fgy[)t, lying between Nawll and the Jordan. It is distant 15 leagues from Damascus.*' (Y4k., ii. 443 ; Mar., i. 353.) Al Khunasirah. — "A fortress," writes Tstakhri, "lying over against Kinnasrin, on the desert side, and ai its edge and border. The Khalif 'Omar ibn *Abd al 'Aziz used to live there. It is a I lace of refiijLie in our day (tenth century), for the roads are unsafe by reason of the incursions of the Greeks." (Is., 61 j I. H., 119 ; copied by A. F., 232.) " Khnn^sirah," writes Yakut, **is a small town of the Halab Distrif t. nt ar Kinnasrin, and lies close to the desert. It is the capital of the district of Al Ahass, and is called after him w^ho built it, namely, Khunasirah ibn 'Amr, sixth in descent from Auf ibn Kandnah, King of Syria. Others say he was Khunasirah ibn 'Amr, the vicegerent of Al Ashram of the £lepbant." (Yak., ii. 473 ; Mar., t. 367.) Khundsirah,*' says Abu-l Fida, "lies on the border of the desert; west, and somewhat south, of Halab, and two marches distant from it." (A. F., 232.) Al Khunasirah to Halab is 2 days. (Is , I. H., Y&k.) KhusAf. — ** A plain lying between Bdlis and Halab, and very celebrated in those parts. There are here remains of edifices and villages covering an extent of some 15 miles." (Yak., ii. 441 ; Mar., i. 352.) biyuizua by Google 486 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Khusail. — "The name of a place in Syria." (Vak., ii. 450 ; Mar., i. 356.) Khuwailifah. — "A place in the neighbourhood of the Filastin Province." (Yak., ii. 501 ; Mar., i. 376.) KiLLiz. — " The name of a meadow in the Greek country near Sumaisat. In the Halab territory is a town called Killiz, but this, 1 think, is another place. This latter Killiz (spelt with the hard is a village in the 'Azaz District, lying between Halab and Ant4- kiyyah." (Y4k., iv. 15S, 229 ; Mar.,ii. 440^ 508 ) KiKNAStttK (Chalcis). — "Tbe city/' writes Istakhri, in the tenth century, " from which the province is named ; but it is a veiy small place, and its buildings are insignificant. It was a pleasant place to live in till the Greeks took it, bat now it has become even as a heap of rubbish/' (Is., 61 ; I. H., 118.) " Kinnasrin," writes Mukaddasi, " is a town of which the popu> lation has decreased. The worthy Shaikh Abu Said Ahmad ibn Muhammad related to me at Naisahfir (in Persia), holding the tradiiion as coming from 'Amr ibn Jarir, who lieard the Prophet say : ' Allah- may His name be exalted and glorified 1— spake to me in revelation, /If 7i'/ik/iso€ter of iht€e places ihou disandesit, verily it shall kuvnt thx ahcde after thy Jlighf, tvhcthtr ii be A I Afadiriah, or Al Bahrain, or Kitmasrin.'' Now, if anyone should ask of me, Mukaddasi, why I have given Halab (Aleppo) as the capital of the Kinnasrin District, (thus ignoring the claims of) the city (of Kinnasrin), bearing the same name as that of its district, I reply, even as I have stated before in the Preface to niy work, that capitals and towns may be regarded in the light of generals and soldiers. And thus it would not be fitting to make Halab, which is so lordly, and where is the residence of the Sultan, and the place of the Dtwins, or Antdkiyyah, with all its wealth, and Balis, with its great population, even as soldiers (subordinate) to a town which is ruined and of small extent (like Kinnasrin).'' (Muk., 156. The tradition of the Prophet is repeated in YAk., iv. 185.) Nasir-i-Khu.^rau passed through Kinnasrin in 1047, and speaks of it as a village. * Kinnasrin," says Idrisi, " is a city from which the Province is biyiiizua by GoOglc KiNNASRJS,^KIRMIL, 4«7 named, 'i here were in former limes fortified walls round it, but tliese were destroyed in the days of the murder of Al Husain, tlie son of the Khalif 'AH — Allah accept them both I — by the com- mand of the Khalif Va/id. Of these walls some remains may be seen to the present day (1154)^ The place has an impregnable fortress. There are also markets, and artificers who live here. It stands on the river Kuwaik." (Id, 25.) In Kinnasrin/' says 'Ali of Herat, the Makam, or Station, of the Prophet Salih is to be seen.** (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio II, V.) The traveller, Ibn Jubair, who passed through Kinnasrin in 1185, speaks of it as "a town of great importance in former times, but now quite ruined and abandoned." (I. J , 255.) "Kinnasrin," writes ^akut. Mies a day's march from Halab. It was very pojnilous h»iinerly, but when tlie (Ireekstook Halab, in I 1 1)^>^), or, as some say, 355 (9<'>''), llie inha!)itants of Kinnasrin iled trom fear into the country. There is here lunv (ihiricenth century) onlv a Khan for the caravans. In the mountains of Kinnasrin is the tomlj of the Prophet Salih — so some say." (Yak., iv. 184 ; Mar., ii. 453.) "Kinnasrin," says Abu-1 Fida, "was anciently one of the capitals of Syria. At the time of the first conquest the Muslims settled here, and Halab is not mentioned in the records, it is in the land of the Rabi'ah tribe. From Ma'arah to Kinnasrin is a long march. It was one of the chief towns of Syria, but lost its importance when Halab was rebuilt, and so fell to ruins, and is now a small village. Below the village the river Kuwaik (Chalus) falls into the morass. The hill of Kinnasrin overhangs the place. It lies a short march from Halab." (A. F., 267.) Kinnasrin to Halab (Is., H. H., Muk.), i day's march, (Id.) 20 miles ; to Kafar Tab (Muk.), i march; to Antakiyyah (Id.), 40 miles. KiRMiL (i), (Cakmkl). — "A fortress <hi the high mountain above Haifa, on the Syrian coast. Tt was known in the early days ot Islam as the Masjid (Mosque) of Saadad Daulah." (Vak., iv. 267 ; Mar., ii. 492.) KiKMiL (2), (Carmej.).— " A village in the further limits of the biyiiizua by GoOgie 488 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Hebron territory, in the Province of Filastin." (/(iem,) This is the Carmel mentioned in Joshua xv. 55. Al Kiswah, or Al Kuswah (The GARMkNr). — "The first station on the Pilgrim road out of Damascus. The place is so called because the King Ghass&n here slew the messengers of the King of ROm (Greece^ who came to demand tribute of him. And he here divided their garments {Kiswahy (V&k., rr, 275 ; Mar., ii. 498.) Al Kuswah," says Abu-1 Fidd, "is 12 miles from As Sanamain. Al Kuswah is a domain and a halting stage. Near it runs the Nalir Al A'waj, which Hows down from (Hermon) the Mount of Snow. From Al Kuswah to Damascus is 12 miles, and l)etween the two is a beautiful pass called 'Akabah ash Shuhurah. Al Kuswah lies ^nnth of Damascus." (A. F., 253 ) "From Al Kiswah," says Ibn liaiutah, ''near Damascus, the caravans start for Al Madinah." (I. B., i. 254.) Kuswah to Damascus (Muk.) is 2 stages, or (I. K.) 12 miles; to Jasim (Muk.) is i march, or (I. K.) 24 miles. Al KubaibAh. — "A 6ne quarter lying outside the Mosque of Damascus, and towards the south." (Yllk., iv. 34; Mar^ ii. 388.) KubAkib (t).— A well and halting place on the Damascus road from Ar Rahbah, between it and As Sabalthah. It lies in a desert with no water ncar it" (Mar, ii. 383.) KubAkib (2). — '*The name of a river in the ThughQr (or Frontier Lands) near Malatyah. It falls into the Euphrates." (Yak , iv. 26 : Mar., ii. 3H3.) KuDHARAN — " A villa^c in the neighbourhood of Halab (Aleppo)." (Yak., iv. 43 ; Mar., ii. 392.) KCfa, or Bait Ki ka. — "A village near Damascus." (Yak., iv. 201 ; Mar., u. 460.) KuT RMN — " One of the villages of Damascus, I believe. It lies near larmis." (Yak., iv. 157 ; Mar., ii. 439.) KuNAiKiR. — " A village of Damascus. One of the chief of the Karmathians was killed here in 290 (903).'' (Yik., iv. 314; Mar., ii. 517.) Al Kur' (Thk Bare).— "The name of a Wftdt in the Desert biyiiizca by Google KURAN,—HISN AL KUSAIH. 489 of Syria, so called because nothing grows there/' (Yak., iv. 6a ; Mar., ii. 400.) KurAn.—" Abu Sa'd," writes Y&kftt, "says it is a village of Syria, but j)r{)lwbly this is a mistake, for I inquired for it when I was in Syria, and could learn nothing of any such place." (\'ak., iv. 247 ; Mar., ii. 48^.) A\. KrkAi:>HivYAH.— " A vilin'jc on the roast of Hinis, and the last villa^'c of its territory tow trd-. llalab ami Anlakiyyah. 'I'here are people in Halab conung from here who called themselves Banu al Kurasht The common people imagine they are of the • Kuraish tribe, so I am creditably informed." (Vak., iv. 57 ; Mar., ii. 399.) KURKUS (CoRvcos).— "Kfis Kurkus (the headland of Kurkus) lies 13 miles from the town of Kurkus. Kurkus itself is a fortress, and from it you can see the heights of Cyprus. From Bis Kurkus to Hisn al Mulawwan is 25 miles.'* (Id, 24.) KOrus (Cyrrhus). — A fort on a mountain that forms part of the Jabal Lukklm." (Id., 27.) " KOrus," writes Yikdt, " is an ancient town near Halab, having many remains of antiquity lying near it. It is ruined now, but there are many fine relics of the past. There is here the tomb of Uriyyaibn Uannan (Uriah the Hittite?)." (Yak., iv. 199, copying A. H. : see Oxf. MS., folio 9 rr/so; Mar., ii. 459 ) *' Kuru>, says Abu-1 i' ida, in the fourteenth century, '* is a large town, and the l apital of its district." (.\. F., 231.) KOrus to Halab (Is., I. H., Id.), i day; to Manbij (Is., I. H , Id.), 2 marches. KURZAHIL.— A place in the neighbourhood of Halab^ in the *Amk territor)'." (Yak., iv. 56 ; Mar , ii. 398.) Al Ku.sair (i). — " Immediately to the north of Damascus is a laige Khan called Al Kusair, and in front of it is a stream of water. Froin thence to Damascus the road lies continually through gardens." (I. J., 261; mentioned by YlUc, iv. 126; Mar., il 426.) HiSNAL KusAiR (2).— "A strong fortress," says Ibn BatOtah, ••lying south of Al 'Amk, in the Hafcib District.*' (I. B., i. 165.) •The author of the Mar&sid (in Ydk., v. 27) speaks of it as one biyuizua by Google 49© PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. of the fortified castles of Ilahb. This is the place called, by Wilhaui ()( Tyre, Cicsani. It belonged to the Templars. KisAiR Mu'iN (3). — "A village in the Ghaur of the Jordan Province. They crush sugar-cane here." (Yak., iv. 126; Mar., ii. 426.) KCsiN.— "A village of the Filastin Province, so 1 believe." (Yak., iv. 320; Mar., ii. 521.) KustCn. — " A fortress," writes YakOt, in 1225, "that was in the district of Ar ROj, in the Halab Province. It is now in ruin&" (Yak., iv. 97 ; Mar., il 412.) Al Kutayvifah (1). — There is here," says Yalctkbi, in 891, a palace of the Khalif Hisham ibn 'Abd al Malik." (Yb., 1 1 2.) ** Al Kutayyifah," writes Y^ikt, " is a village on the north side of the Thani) yat al 'Ukab (the Eagle's Pass) as you come towards Damascus, from Hims, by the desert road." (Yak., iv. 144; Mar, ii. 4.^5.) Al Kutayvifali to An Nabk (Muk.). i march, or (1. K.) 20 miles ; to Damascus (Muk.), i march, or (I. K.) 24 miles. At. Kin.vvvii ah (2).^ — "The name of a quarter of Halab (Alep])o)."' (Mar. in Yak., v. 27.) Al, KuwAiNiSAH. — "A village of the Ghautah of Damascus.'' (Yak., iv. 207 ; Mar., ii. 463.) Al Ladhikivyah (Laodicea ad Mare). — " The town on the coast of the Province of Hims." (Yb., 112.) **Al Lidhikiyyah," says Idiisf, "is a very populous city, rich in products and good things. It lies on an arm of the sea, and has a fine port, in which ships and boats which come hither can anchor." (Id., 23.) " Al Llldhikiyyah," says Y4k0t, " is one of the coast towns of Syria. It was formerly counted as of the Hims Province, but is at present (1225) counted of the Halab District It lies 6 leagues west of Jabalah. It is an ancient Greek city, with many antique buildings, and has fine dependencies, also an excellendy-huilt harbour. There are two caslles built on a hill adjoinin^^ ih.it overlooks the suburb. The sea lies west of the city. .Al Ladhi- kiyyah was taken by the Franks when they gained possession of the other coast towns in about the year 500 (under Tancred in 1 102). biyiiizoa by GoOglc AL LADHIKIYYAH. 491 It is now At the present day in Muslim hands. For quite lately, namely, in the month DhO-1 Ka'adah, of the year 620 (December, 1323), an army from Halab (Aleppo) went against it, and they camped there a certain time, until they had destroyed the castle and levelled it with the ground, for fear lest it should again be occupied by the Franks. " The writer Ibn Fadlan relates the following : Al Lidhikiyyah is a very ancient city, and is called after the name of its founder. I saw here in the year 446 (1054) a curious sight. The Muhtasib, (Police-Inspector) was wont to collect together in a circle all the strumpets, and also the strangers among the (ireeks who were addicted to riotous ]i\ing. He would then hcuin an aurtion among them, crying iiji the j)rice by Dirhams of each (slrumpet), and for how much each should hold her for the night. Then the couples were taken to the hostelry, where the strangers dwell, and each ol them received from the Muhtasib (a paper with) the seal of the Metropolitan (Al Malran) as a certificate. 1 or the Governor was wont to come round afterwards, and demand this (paper) from each of them, and if any man were found with a strumpet, and had not with him the Metropolitan's certificate, the lack of it went ill with him." (YSk., iv. 338 ; Mar., iii. 1.) " Al U,dhikiyyah,"says Dimashki, "is surrounded by the sea on three sides. In its method of building it resembles Al Iskan- dariyyah (Alexandria). There is no running water here, and trees are scarce. Its buildings are very ancient. In the country round are quarries of marble, white, green and variegated Dair al FarQs (in the city) is one of the most beautiful of convents. On one day of the year the Christians all come liitlier to make tlieir visi- tation. The pnrt of Al l.adhikiyyah is a must woiiderful harbour, and one of the most spacious, so that it never cea.ses to lie full of large ships. There is at its i^nuth a great chain which protects the ships that are inside from the enemies' ships without." (Dim., 209.) ".Al lidhikiyyah, writes .'\bu-l Fida, ''has many cisterns. The city is on the sea-coast, and has a fine and excellent port. There is here a convent inhabited by monks called Dair al Farfls, which is well built. Between Al Ladhikiyyah and Ja'n!;h is a distance of 12 miles, and to Ant^kiyyab is 48 miles. It is the biyuizua by Google 49* PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, finest of the coast towns and the strongest, and the port is very large." (A. F., 257.) Laodicea was visited by Ibn Battktah in 1355. He writes ; " Outside the city is the convent called Dair al F^rfis. It is the greatest of the convents of Syria and Egypt, and is inhabited Ijy monks. It is visited by the Christians from all parts. Muslims who go there are treated with hospitality by the Christians. Their food consists of bread, cheese, olives, vinegar and (ai)crs. The port of Al Ladhikiyyah is shut by a chain that stretches between two towers, so that none can enter or depart without the chain being slacked. It is one of the finest ports of Syria." (L B., i. 179-183.) Al Lddhikiyyah to Antakiyyah is 3 marches or days (Is., Muk.) ; to Halab, 3 days (Yik.) ; to Jabalah (Id.), 10 miles ; to Hisn al Harbadah (Id.), 18 miles. LailOn, or LailOu — *'The name of the mountain which overhangs Halab (Aleppo). It lies between it and Ant&kiyyah. There are on its sides many villages and fields. On the summit is the watchman of Bait L&ht" (see p. 413)- (Yak., iv. 374 ; Mar., ... V m. 24.) Al Lajah (Trachonitis). — "The name of the black Hanrah (volcanic country), which is in the country of Salkhad, in Syria. 'I'here arc in its houndaries many villages and fields, also a large population." {Yak., iv. 350; Mar., iii. 8.) Al L.\jjln (i) (Leg 10, said to he MKcinrio). — "A city on the frontier of Palestine, and in the mountain country. Running water is found here. It is well situated, and is a pleasant place. (Muk., 162.) Ibn al Fakib, who wrote in the beginning of the tenth century, States that "there is just outside Al I^ajjHn a large stone of round form, over which is built a dome, which they call the Mosque of Abraham. A copious stream of water flows from under the stone, and it is reported that Abraham struck the stone with his statT, and there immediately flowed from it water enough to suffice for the supply of the people of the town, and also to water their lands. This spring continues to flow down to the present day,** biyiiizuQ by GoOgle AL LAyyUN.—LUD, 493 "Al LajjOn," says YakOt, "in the Jordan Province, lies 20 miles from labariyyah, and 40 miles ironi Ar Ramlah. In the middle of the town is a circular rock, and over it a dome. 1 his they call the Mosque of Abraham — ^peace be upon him 1 Under the rock is a copious spring of water. They say that Abraham entered the town at the time of his journey up to Egypt, and with him were his flocks. Now the city possessed but little water at that time, and the people besought Abraham to travel on because of the small ciuantity of their water-supply. But he was com- manded to strike the rock here with his staff, and the water then burst forth copiously. The villages and orchards round are all now irrigated from this spring, and the rock remains standing even to the present day." (Yak., iv. 3^1 ; Mar., iii. 8 ; mentioned by A. F., 227.) Al Lajjun to Tabariyyah (Muk.), i march, or 20 miles: to kalanstnvah CMuk.), i march ; to Kafa Saba (Muk.), by post-road, I marcli ; to Kaisnriyyah (T. Kh.), 20 milt s. Al I.ajjOn (2). — *■ 1 he name of a station on the rilgrim road, near Taima. The poet Ar Ra'i speaks of it as A 1 l^ajjan." (Y4k., iv. 351.) Ibn Batutah speaks of this Al l^ijjQnas lying "between Birkat Zizl and Hisn al Karak. There is running water here." (I. B., i. 255.) LajjOn (3). — ** A town in the Province of Kinnasrin.*' (Muk., LatmIm.— " A Kfirah (or district) with a fortress in it, belonging to the Hims Province." (Y&k., iv. 358; Mar., iii. Z3.) LAwl. — A village lying between Nabulus and Jerusalem. The tomb of Ldwt (Levi), son of Jacob, is here." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 33 ; copied by Yak., iv. 344 ; Mar., iv. 3.) T.uiJi) (Lvdua). — **The ancient capital of Palestine. It fell to decay after the founding of Ar Ramlah. Ludd also the name of the di>irii t (Kurah) round the old city." (Yb., no.) " Ludil lit s about a mile from Ar Ramlah. There i<; here a great mosque, in which are woin to assemble large luunbcr.s of the peojile from the capital ( Ar Ramlah), and from the villages round. In Lydda, too. is that wonderful church (of St. George) at the gate of which Christ will slay the Antichrist" (Muk., 176.) biyuizua by Google 494 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. The coming of the Antichrist, Ad Dajj^ is to be one of the great signs of the Day of Resurrection. According to the Tradi- tion of the Prophet, Ad Dajjil will first appear in either Upper Mesopotamia or Khuras&n. He will ride on an ass, and be followed by 70,000 Jews of Ispah&n. He will reign over the earth during forty years, and will ultimately be slain by the Christ, who will meet him at the Gate of Lydda. This tradition is doubtless due to a distorted version of the story of St. George and the Dragon. The Church of St. George mentioned by Mukaddasi, must have been the original church which the Crusaders restored, for the present ruins are those of a building of the Crusading epoch. For an illustration of the Church of St. George, see S. of IV, P. Mfm:irs^ ii. 267 ; on p. 138 of the same volume, are also some notes by M. Clermont (Ian neau, on the Muslim Ad Dajjal, as the representative of the Christian St. George. "At I.udd," says Ali of Herat, the Messiah peace be on Hiiu '—once lived. Here, too, is the house of Maryam, and this the Franks hold in great veneration." (A. H., Oxf. MS., f., 32.) " Ludd," writes Ydkflt,in the thirteenth century, "is a village in the Jerusalem District. Jesus, the Son of Mary, will slay the Anti- christ at the Gate.'' (YAk., iv. 354 ; Mar., iii. 1 1 ; mentioned by A. F., 227.) The ruin of Lydda, when Ar Ramlah was being built, has been described in the section on Ar Ramlah (above, p. 303.) LOlOah al KABtRAH: — " A quarter of Damascus lying outside the Bib al Jabiyah." (YAk., iv. 371 ; Mar, iii. 22.) MaAb (Ar or Rabath Moab, Arbopous). — "MaSh," sa>-s Mukaddasi, "lies in the mountains. The district round has many villages, where grow almond-trees and vines. It borders on the desert." (Muk., 178 ; mentioned also by Yb., 1 14.) ** Maab is a city on the frontier of Syria, in the territory of the Balka. It was first conquered by Abu 'Ubaidah in the year 13.** (Yak., iv. 377 ; Mnr., in'. 25.) " Maab, or Ar Rahljah," says Abu-1 I-'ida, in 132T, "lies in the Balka Province. According to Muhailabi, this place and Adhnih are two towns in the Jabal Ash Sharah. Maab was a very ancient town ; the relics of which have completely disappeared, and in its biyiiizua by Google MA'AUYA,'-MA'ARRAH AN NUhfAN. 495 place is a village called Ar Rabbah. It is in the district of Al Karalc, and lies about half a day*s march from this to the north. Near Ar Rabbah is an extremely high hill, called Shaihan,* which you see from afar. Mafib is mentioned in the history of the Israel- ites. Between it and 'Amm&n along the road by the Maujib (river Amon) is 48 miles." (A. F., 247.) Maal) to Sughar (Muk. ), 1 march ; to 'Amman (Muk.), i march, Ma'aliva. — ** A fine castle on a hill and well fortified. In its lands is Al Kiirain {MonUort), an imi>rcgnal)le castle lyintx between two hiiis, and this was a frontier fortress of the Franks. It was taken by Sultan Baihars. J here lies near it a valley most pleasant and celebrated among all liic valleys, for its musk-pears, the like of which are found nowhere else for exquisitcness of per- fume and excellence of flavour. There are also grown here citrons of such a size that a single fruit weighs 6 Damascus Ratls (or about 18 lbs.)." (Dim., 211.) Ma'arrah ak Nu'man.— '* An ancient city, now (891) a ruin. It lies in the Hims Province." (Vb., 11 1.) Istakhri writes, in 951 : "The fields of Na'arrah an Nu'mdn, and all the surrounding lands of the town, are watered by tlie rains only (not irrigated), for there is no running water in those parts, nor springs. So in truth is it throughout most of the Kinnasrtn District- The people, loo, drink the rain-water. The city is very full of good things, and very opulent. There are figs, pistachios, and the like cultivated here, also vines." (Is., 61 ; T. H., 118 : copied by .\. F., 231.) The town was visited by Nasir-i-Khusrau in 1047. He writes in his Diary : "Six leagues from Sarmin we came to Ma'arrah an Nu'm.'tn, which has a stone wall, and is a populous town. At the city gate I saw a column of stone on which something was inscribed in writing other than Arabic. One whom I asked con- cerning it said it was a talisman against scorpion.s, and, thereby, no scorpion could ever come into or abide in the town : and even were one to be brought in, and then set free, it would dee away and not remain in the place. The height of this column, according to my estimation, might be i o cubits. The bazaars of * Recalling the name of Sihon, King of ihe Atnorites. biyiiizea by Google 496 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Ma arrah an Nu'man I saw full of traffic. The Friday Mosque is built on a height, in the midst of the town, so that from whatever side it may he you enter the mosque, you go up thereto by thirteen stejjs. '1 lie ara1»le land belonging to the town is all on the hillside, and is of considerable extent, i'here are here also fig-trees and olives, and pistachios and almonds and grapes in plenty. The water for the city is from the rains, and also from wells." (N. Kh., 3.) " Ma'arrah an Nu'man," reports Idrisi, " is a place in the district of Kinnasrin. It is very populous and well built, having good bazaars. Nowhere in its territory or in its neighbourhood is there any running water nor any spring. The sand has invaded most of its land The people drink from rain-water. The place has many good things, such as olive-trees and vines, and figs and pistachios, and nuts and the like." (Id, 27.) 'llie traveller Ibn Jubair passed by Ma'anah an Nu*m&n in 1185. He writes: "And we passed on the right of our road going south, but lying at a distance of 2 leagues away, the lands of Ma'arrah, all black with olives, figs and pistachios, and other sorts of fruit-lrees. Everywhere round the town are gardens, even for 2 days' journey distant. It is one of the most fertile and the richest lands in the world. Over against it are the Lebanon Mountains, very high and steep, running all along the sea-coast. On these are the castles of the Ismailians." (I. J., 256.) " Ma'arrah an Nu'min,"says Yak(it, "is called after An Nu'man ibn Bashir, the Companion of the Prophet, who died here. To the south of the wall, before entering the town, is a tomb, said to be that of Joshua, son of Nun. But the truth is, his tomb is at Nibulus. Ma'arrah is a large city lying between Halab and Ham&h. It has olives and figs and pistachios in quantity, and it possesses broad lands. Its water comes entirely from wells.' (Yak., iv. 574 ; Mar., iii. 120.) Ma*arrah Nu*min, in the Halab Province," says Dimashki, ** is also known as Dhit Kasrain (Possessed of two Castles). It has extensive groves of trees bearing figs, pistachios, almonds, apricots, olives, poniegranates, apples, and other Iruits. All these are watered by the rains, and they only require tiiat the soil biyiiizua by Google MA'ARRAH AN NITMAN.-^MADYAN, 497 should be turned up below them (and need no artificial irriga- tion)." (Dim., 205.) Abu-1 Fida adds nothing to the foregoing, except to state that "the people drink well-water unly." (A. F., 265.) Ma'arrah an Nu inuii was visited by H'n Hatfltah in 1355. **'It was called so," he says, "from An Nu inan ibn Bashir, the Com- panion of the Prophet, who lies buried here. The place was for- merly called DhAt al Kusur (Possessed of Castles). Or they say An Nu'man is the name of a high hill in the neighbourhood. It is a fme town, but small. The hgs and pistachios from here are exported to Damascus. The Khalif 'Omar ibn 'Abd ai 'Aziz lies buried a league from the town." (T. B., i. 143.) Ma'arrah an Nu'mlUi to Halab (Y4k.), a days ; to Hisn MansClr (Id.), X day. Ma'arrah MasrIn (or NasrIn). — A small town in a district of the same name lying 5 leagues from Halab." (Y&k., iv. 574 ; Mar., ill lao.) Both Masrtn and '* NasHn " are probably cor- rupted from " Kinnasrin." The town is also mentioned by Abu-l Fidi. (A. F., 231.) Al MadAin. — "The name of two villages in the neighbour- hood of Halab. They lie in the plain of the Bani Asad tribe." (Yak., iv. 447 , Mar., iii. 62.) Madyan (Midia.n). — "This town in reality is within the borders of the Hijjaz, for the Arab Peninsula includes all within the line of the s«i, and Madyan lie^ on the coast. Here may be seen the ro^k which Mus^ (Moses) struck when he gave water to the flocks ol iShu'aib (Jethro). Water here is abundant. In this town the weights and measures, and the customs of the inhabi- tants, are those of Syria." (Muk., 179.) " Madyan," sa\ s Yakut, " is the city of the people of Shu'aib. It lies 6 marches from TabOk on the Bahr Kulzuni (Red Sea). It is a laiger town than TabAk. There is here the well from which MQsi watered the flocks of Shu'aib. I, YikCIt, have seen this well, and it is covered in, with a house built over it, and the water runs from a spring. It is called Madyan Kaum Shu*aib (Midian of Jethro's People), and is called after Madyan, the son of Abraham^peace be on him (Y&k , iv. 451 ; Mar., iii. 64. biyuizua by Google FJLESTISE L SDEJt THE MOSLEMS. *rbe posidoo of die ancient citj of Mjidtan, or M idian, would appear to be ladier dochtiiiL It b nailEed on die accompanying map, according to Sir F. Bunon's riew. who identifies it with the of Siidian^ \^'^, p. 33* » Sprenger. howcvt-r, in his Altc C^o- grathk ArabUns, puis \\ inlaiKi, or, as an aitemaiive, on ihe Red Sea coa^L, >outh of 'Ainuna. Nf A^HAR. — **A village of ihe Filastm Province.'' (Vak., iv. ^di ; Mar., iii. 125 Machbah. — •* A place in Syria, in the lands of the Kalb tribe." (\'ak-, IF. 5S3; Mar., iii. 126.) Mahri' bah- — A place lying between Halah and Ant^jTah (Antioch), and about 2 leagues from Antftkiyyah.'' (Bil., 147.) Al MAhCz al Awwal, and MAhCz ath Than I (Trb First AND Second 31ilHCz). — A foitiess on the sea-shore^ 35 mites from 'Askalin ; opposite it on the land-side are Rdm Zanjil and Bait Jibril, which aie two halting statioiis. From Al MfihOz the First on to Al MabOz the Second is 25 mfles. Thence on to Yftil, the port of Jerusalem, is hut a shoit a matches.** (Id., 5.) Al Mfthite to Ar Ramlah (Mnk.) is x march. MAhCz JtJBAiL.— " A place at the mouth of the Xahr Ibrahim. J hen re to the Bay of Sulam is 3 miles, and to the City of Jubail is 5 miles." (Id.. 17.) Maidaa. — "A village uf the Iklini (District) of Khauian, in Syria." (Yak., iv. 713; Mar., iii. 1S4.) Maifa'ah. — '*A village of the Balka Province of Syria." (M.ir. iii., 185.) Al MaitCr. — "One of the villages of Damascus." (V4k., iv. 716; Mar., iii. 185.) Al* Majdal. — ** A domain not far from *Ain al Jarr. It lies on the road between Ba'albakk and Wadi at Taim." (A. F., 320.) Mukaddasi calls the place ajdal Salam. From this place to S(h* (Tyre) (Muk.) is 2 stages, and to B^iy&s (Muk.) is 3 stages. MajdaliyAbah. — ** A village near Ar Ramlah, where there is a rtropg fortress." (Ylk., iv. 41S ; Mar., tti. 43 5 A. F., 4a) .ix--**A vilhige in Syria, from which the wine called >; ^: ihe G;:.:' of Akaha. {Gold Mifie% biyiiizca by GoO* MAKRA,— MALA 1 YAH t OR M HELEN E, 499 Makadi is named. It is said to be of the Hims Province, or else it is a village of the Bathaniyyah. The name of the wine is some- times spelt MaVaddi. Further, Makdiyah, or Al Makadd, is said to be a villnge of the Hauran border near Adhri'at." (Yak., iv. 589; Mar., iii. 130.) Makka. — " A village of Syria, lying near Damascus." (Vak., iv. 604; Mar., iii. 133.) Mai Ai vAH, OR M \i aiivvah (Mitei.ene). — "This fortress was first contjucrcd I ) lyad ibn Ghanam. The town was rebuilt by order of the Khalif al Mansur, and refortified in 139 (756). He built also a mosque there, the whole in the space of six months. For the garrison they built for each company, of iiom ten to fifteen men, and for their captain, two habitations, one above and one below, and under both a stable. Also they built a military post at a distance of 3 miles from the town, and another at the river Kubdkib. Al Mansi^ garrisoned Ma]at3-ah with 4,000 men." (Bil., 185, 1S7 ; 1. F., 114.) . << Malatyah," says Istakhri, " is a large town, and one of the strongest of the fortresses, and was one of the most important ii| the matter of garrison and armament It lies on this side of the Jabal al Lukkam in the country towards Mesopotamia. There are round it many hills on which are nut trees, and almonds and vines ; and the land bears the fruits of both hot and rnld ( lunates. Nothing is impossible to grow there. At this pic^eni day (tenth century) it is one of the strongest of the (ireek towns, and is in- habited l)y Armenians. It was conquered in the year 319 (931)." (Is., 62 : I. H., 120.) ** Malatyah," Idrisi reports, " is a fortified town, and in old days it was a great place, but the Greeks ravaged it many times, and have wasted its prosperity and seized on its wealth," (Id., 26.) "Malatyah," says Yiikfit, "is a city that was founded by Alexander. Its mosque was built by some of the Companions of the Prophet It lies in the Greek country, and is very celebrated, but is now beyond the limits of Syria. The town was lebuilt by the Khalif al MansOr's orders in the year 140, and resettled with an Arab populatioa" (Y&k., iv. 633 ; Mar., iiL 144. Mentioned also by A. F., 335.) 32—2 biyuizua by Google 500 PALESTINE UNDER IHE MOSLEMS, Malatyah to Manbij (Is., I, H., Id.) is 4 or 5 days ; to Hisn Mansur (Is., I. H., Id ) is 2 days, or 30 miles; to Mar 'ash (Is., I. H.), 3 long marches ; to Shaiiibhui (Id.), 51 miles. Ma'i.ava.— A place in the Jordan i'rovince in Syria." (Yik., iv. 578 ; Mar, iii. 123.) Ma'ij"'! A. — "A district near Damascus, where there are many villages." (Y4k., iv. 578; Mar., iii. 123.) Manbij (Hif.rapolis). — "Manbij, in the 'Awasim Province, lies not far from BiUis. It is a fertile place with markets^ many ancient monuments, and great walls. But the desert lies around it. Most of its fields and lands are rain-watered. It is protected by a small fort built in the Greek days. The poet Al Buhturi and his son were both from this place." (Is., 6a ; I. H., tso ; copied by A, F., 271.) Seven miles from Manbij,*' writes Ibn al Fakih, " is a Hammah (hot-spring), over which is a dome^ called Al Mudtr (the Inspector). On the edge of the bath is the image of a man made of black stone. According to the belief of the women of the place, any who are barren have but to rub themselves on the nose of this statue, and they will forthwith conceive. There is here also a hot bath, called the Bath of the Boy (Hammam as Sawahi), where there is the figure of a man in stone, and the water for the bath gushes out from his nether parts." (I. F., 117.) " Manbij," says Nasir-i-Khusrau, " is the first town of Syria after crossing the Kui)hrates." It is, according to Idrisi (in 1 154), " a large town lying i long march from the Euphrates. It has double walls, and was originally built by the Greeks. It has thronged bazaars, great wealth, fine crops, and plenteous pro- visions." (Id., 26.) Manbij was visited by Ibn Jubair in 1185. He speaks of its good air and the gardens and trees lying to the east and west of the town, which produce abundance of fruits* The water, he reports, was good and in plenty, for there were wells of sweet water. ** The surrounding land is excellent, and fit for growing all sorts of fruits. The markets and streets are wide and thronged, and the shops good. The thoroughfares are roofed in and high. Of old, Manbij was a city of the ancient Greeks, and there are biyiiizua by Google MANBIJ.—JISR MANBiy, 501 many remains of antique buildings in the neighbourhood.- A strong castle stands in the city, where the people may retire in case of need." (I. J., 250.) *' Manbij," says Yakut, " is a large and ancient town of Greek origin, lying 3 leagues from the Euphrates and 10 leagues from Halah. Their drinking water is from channels that run on the surface of the ground ; also from many wells which gush out with sweet water. The Khahf Ar Rashid made Manl)ij the capital of his newmade province of the 'Awasim. The city stands in a fine and fertile plain. It is surrounded by a stone wall very strongly built In our day (thirteenth century) it belongs to the Sultan of Halab (AleppK)). It was first conquered after Antakiyyah and Halab by 'lyad ibn Ghanam." (Ylk., iv. 654 ; Mar., iii. 153.) ** Manbij," writes Abu-l Fidii, is one of the Syrian towns built by the Chosioes of Persia who conquered Syria. He called it Manbik, and raised there a fire temple, and made governor a certain man called Ibn Dunyibr--one of the race of Ardashir, son of Bdbalc. This man was the ancestor of Sulaimin ibn Majalid, the Jurisconsult. The name of the town was Arabtcized into Manbij. It is said the Fire I cmple was first so called, and that the name passed to the town. There are at the present time many water channels and gardens in Manbij. The principal tree is the mulberry, which is used for feeding the silkworm. It grows all round the walls in great profusion. Most of the walls and houses of the city are now in ruins (fourteenth century)." (A. F., 271.) Manbij to Malatyah (Is., I. H., Id.) is 4 or 5 days; to Halab (Is., T. H., Mule, Id.), 2 days; to the Euphrates (Is., I. H,, Muk., Id.), I short march; to KCUus (Is., I. H., Id.) is 2 marches; to Suroais&t (Is., I. H.), 2 days; to Al Hadath (Is., I. H., Id.), 2 days ; to Shamsbit (Id.), 3 or 2 days. JiSR Manbij (Thb Bridge of Manbij). — "A small city on the Euphrates with a fortress. Its lands are watered by irrigation and by the rains. Its drinking water is from the Euphrates.'* (Is., 62 ; I. H., 120.) It is also called Kala'at an Najm (The Castle of the Star)i ••This," says Yakut, "is a fortified castle, standing high on a hill, biyuizua by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, overhanL^ing the east bank of the Euphrates. Below it is a i>opu- lous suburb ; and there is a bridge called Jisr Manl)ij here, which the caravans from Harrdn to Syria cross to go to Manbij, wbu h lies 4 leagues distant It belongs now to the Sultan of Halab." (Yak., iv. 165 ; Mar., ii. 443.) Kala'at an Najm, or Jisr Manbij," says Abu 1 Fidk, "lies on the Euphrates, 25 miles from Manbij. This fort is so high as to be in the clouds. It was formerly called Hisn (Fortress of) Manbij, but came to be called Kala'at an Najm. It was rebuilt by the Sultan (Nihr ad Dtn) MahmAd ibn Zankt. It has now (1321) a strong garrison, who make incursions into the Frank country. You i)ass over this bridge to go to Harrin. A long march beyond it you come to Hisn Baddiyi, which you pass going to Saruj." (A. 233.) M.\NiN. — "A village of the Jabal Sanir, belonging to the Damascus Province." (Ydk., iv. 674 ; Mar., iii. 167.) Mannagh.— '* A large village with a Friday Mosque of the District, near Halab. Some say its name was anciently written Manna' (with *am instead of x^iam), and that it became altered." (Yik., iv. 667 ; Mar., iii. 162.) Marakiyvah.— " A castle on the Hims coast. It lay in ruins (after the first Muslim conquest, and the Khalif), Mu'iwiyah afterwards rebuilt and garrisoned it" (Y^, iv. 501; Mar,, iii. 83.) Mar'ash (Germanicia). — *'Thi$ town was rebuilt by the Khalif Mu'&wiyah, who put a garrison there. AI 'Abbas^ the son of the Khalif Al Walid ibn 'Abd al Malik, lefortified Mar'ash, and brought a settled population to live here. He built the great Mosque alsa'* (Bit., 188.) "Mar*ash is a small town of northern Syria." (F. H., 62 ; A. 1 ., 863.) **It was refuituiecl by Harun ar Rashid." (Mas., viii. 295). "Mar'ash is of tlie same size as Al Hadath. It has well foni- fied walls and bazaars. Many come thither for merchandise and provisions." (Id., 27.) """^^ " Mar'ash," says Vakdt, is a city between the Frontier \>vince of the ThughOr and Syria. It was rebuilt by the Khalif ▲ biyiiizua by Google UA*RATHA.^MARy RAHIT. Ar Rashtd It has double walls and a ditch. In its midst is a fortress^ suirounded by a wall, called Al Marwftni, which was built by the Khalif Manrin al Himir ; there is a suburb called Al Hftrfiniyyah, out beyond the Bib al Hadath." (Yftk., iv. 498 Mar., iii. 81.) Mar'ash to Antikiyyah (Is., I. H.) is 2 days ; to Al Hadath (Is., I. H., Id.) is I day ; to Malatyah (Is., I. H.), 3 long inarches; to Al HalrQniyyah (Is., I. H.) is i march. Ma'raiha.— " A village ol iiaUb, and near Maarrah." (Vak., iv. 573 ; Mar., iii. 1 20.) MarbC'. — "A place in the neighbourhood of Salainiyah, in Syria." (Yak., iv. 486 ; Mar., iii. 74.) Marda. — "A village near Nabulus." (V4k., iv. 493; Mar., iii. 78.) MARtMfN (i).— "One of the villages of Hims." MAKf\ffN (2). — " Also a celebrated village of Halab." (Y&k., iv. 516 ; Mar., iii. 88.) Marj 'Adhra. — "A meadow lying 12 miles from Damascus in the Ghautah.'' (Mas., v. 16 ; Yftk., iv. 488 ; Mar., iii. 75.) Marj al Atrakk6k.— " A meadow near Al Massissah." (Yak., iv. 487 ; Mar., iiL 74.) Marj Dabik. — "A meadow in the Kinnasrin District The Khalif Sulaiman died and was buried here in 99 (718)." (Mas., v. 397.) Marj al KhalIj (The Meadow of the Canal). — "A place of the (Frontier I'ortresses of the) liiugliur of Al Massissah." (Yak., iv. 488 : Mar., iii. 75.) MARf I'ahm. — "A celebrated nieadow near Damascus, and towards the east after passing Marj 'Adhra. As you go by Al Kusair, travelling to Thaniyyat al 'Ukkab (the Eagles Pass), along the Hims road, it lies to the right" (Yak., ii. 743 ; iv. 488 ; Mar., iii. 75.) " Maxj Rahit is the name of the meadow lying in the Ghautah to the east of Damascus, where the great battle took place between the Yamanites and the Kaisites. The Khalif Marw^ and the Yamanites obtained the victory, and put the Kaisites of Ibn Zubair's party to flight, whereby he^ Marwdn, was established in biyuizua by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS* the KhalUate.* It took place in the year 64 (683).** <A. F., Marj as Suffar. — '* A celebiated meadow in the Ghautah of Damascus, lying between the city and the Khaulibi tHstrict It is here the great battle took place in the days of the Omayyad Khalifs." (YAlc, iii. 400; iv. 4SS ; Mar., ii. 160; iii. 75.) Marj 'UyCn (The Meadow of the Springs). — "A meadow in the coast lands of Svria." (Y4k., iv. 488 ; Mar., iii. 75.) Possibly the //on of i Kings xv. 20. HisN AL Markab (The Castle ok the Watch-Towek, ihe Castrum MERtiHA i uM OF THE Crusades).— " A castle situatcd on a mountain that stands isolated on all sides." (Id., 22.) ** Al Markab," says VakQt, " is a town and castle overhanging the shore of the Syrian Sea. It protects the city of Bulunyas, and the coast of Jabalah. Eveiyone who has seen it reports that they never saw the like for strength. It was built by the Muslims in 454 (1069)." (Y&k., iv. 500 ; Mar., iii. 8a.) " Hisn al Markab/' says Dimasbki, '*is an impregnable fortress on a tongue of land overhanging the sea. It was built in the fonn of a triangle, by Rashtd ad Dtn,t from the stones of ancient rains. It was afterwards rebuilt by the Christians, and in our days (T300) the Muslims have retaken it and rebuilt it." (Dim., 208.) "Al Markab and liulLiuyas," writes Abu-1 Fida, ** lie on the coast of Hinis. Al Markab is the name of ihe ea.stle, which is very stronulv built, and high up, overlooking the sea. Bulunyas (ApoUorua; is the name of the town to which it belongs, and which lies about a league distant iherelroni. It has fruit-trees, and quantities of the salsuginous shrubs called H^^tnd they grow also the sugar-cane. There arc many springs in the neighbour- hood. Bulunyas is less large than Jabalah. It lies 1 2 miles from Antart(^s. The fortress of Al Markab was built by the Muslims in the year 454 (1062), as Ibn Munkid relates in his work on fortresses." (A. F., 255.) The fortress of Al Markab was visited by Ibn BatAtah in 1355. He describes it as '*one of the great fortresses of Syria, like that • See Weil, Cicschnhtc der Khalijaiy i. 348. t Chief of ihc Ismaiiian^ (Assassins). biyiiizua by Google AL MAERUT,—AL MASSJSSAH. 505 of. Al Karak. It is built on the summit of a high mountaia Outside it lies a suburb where strangers dwell, for they are not allowed to enter the castle. Sultan Kala'un took it from the (irccks (Cru.^adcrs).*' (I. B., i. 183.) I roni Hisn al Markab to Antarsus (Id.), is 8 miles ; to Buliinyas (Id.), is 8 miles. Al Makkl 1. — "A place, as it is said, of the lands of the Ghassan kings in Syria." (Yak., iv. 504 ; Mar., iii. 84.) Mashghara. — *• One of the villages of Damascus in the neigh- bourhood of the Bikii' (of Coelo Syria)." (Y^, iv. 540 ; Mar., m. 104.) Al Masdaf. — ''A place that you go to from AtTAr (Sinai). There is beautiful sand here and clear water, wherein they fish for pearls." (Id, 2.) Al Mash'ar. — "A ruined village lying half a day's journey south of Hims." (I. J. 260, written in 1185.) Al MassIssah (i), (Mofsuestja). — "This city was conquered in the year 84 (703) by 'Abd Allah, son of the Khalif 'Abd al Malik, and during his father*s Khalifate. He built the fortifica- tions here on the old line of the walls, and settled a garrison in them. He built a mosque also on ihc sunmiit of the hill of the fort. A church in the fortress was turned into a granar)', where provisions were stored. The fortresses round Al Massissah were all dismantled. The Khalif 'Omar ibn '.\l)d al 'A/i/ built a mosque in ihc Kafarbayya quarter and made a great ( istern, whereon his name was inscribed. This mosque fell to ruin in the Ktialif Al Mu'tasim's days, it was called Masjid al Hisn (the Fort Mosque). The quarter of Al KhusCis to the east of the Jaih^n (river Fyramus) was built by the Khahf Marwan. He built a wall round it, and set in wooden gates, and dug a ditch. The Khalif HdrOn ar Rashtd built Kafarbayyd, and fortified it with a ditch. Al Mansfir built a Jaroi' Mosque in a place where there was formerly a temple. He made his mosque three times as large as 'Omafs Mosque ; and it was added to subsequently by Al MteOn." (Bil, 165, 166; I. F., 112 ; Mas., viiL 295.) " The bridge on the road from A\ Massfssah to Adanah, which lies 9 miles from Al Massissah, was built in the year 125 (743). biyiiizua by GoOglc 5o6 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, It is called Jisr al Walid, after the Khalif Walid ibn Yazid ibn 'Abd al Malik. The Khalif al Mu'tasim restored it in 225 (840)." (Bil, 168 ; Yak.» iL 82 ; Mar.» i. 255.) " Al Masstssahy" says Istakhri in 945, is, in truth, two towns. One is called Al Masslssah, the other Kafarbayyi, and they lie on either bank of the Jaih&n River. Between them is a stone bridge. Both quarters are well fortified, and they are built on elevations. One who is sitting in the Friday Mosque of the town can see down to the sea-shore nearly 4 leagues away. All the intervening ground is a Icrtilc plain, \ ery pleasant and beautiful. The pcople of Al Massissah arc agreeable, its markets are numerous, its ways excellent. ' (Is., 63 ; I. H., 122 ; copied by A. V., 251.) According to the report of Idrisi, "the name of Al Massissah in the (Ireek language is Mamistra (Mopsuestia). The rity con- sists of two towns which lie on either side the river Jaihan. Be- tween them is a stone bridge. The one town is called Al Mas- sissah, and the other Kafarbayya, and they both have extensive gardens and fields. The river Jaihan flows out from the Greek country down to Al Massissah, and thence to the lands of Hisn al Mulawwan, where it falls into the sea, 12 miles distant from Al Massissah/' (Id, 24.) Al Massissah/' says Y&kOt, is a city on the Jaihfin River, of the ThughAr (or Frontier Province) of Syria, lying between Antakiyyah and the Greek country. At present (1225) it is in the hands of Ibn LayOn (Leo of Armenia). There are many gardens watered by the Jaihdn River. It is here the Muslims of old were in garrison against the Greeks. Al Massissah had origiuaily a wall and five gates. Historians say it was called after its founder, Massissah ibn Ar ROm, grandson of Sam (Shem) Al Muhallabi relates that the peculiar products of the Thughur are the fur pelisses made up at Al Massissah, which are exported thence to all parts of the world. A single pelisse will often reach the value of 30 Dinars (jCis)" (Y&k., iv. 558; Mar., iii. 112.) " Al Ma'mQriyyah is one of the special names of the city of Al Massissah. It was so named by the Khalif al MansOr. The city had been ruined by the neighbourhood thereto of the enemy. When the Khalif al Manstlr came to the throne^ he set here a biyiiizca by GoOgle AL MASSISSAH.^AL MASIYAH, S07 garrison of 8.000 u\cn. In 139 (756) he rebuilt the city-walls, which hati bccii ^iiattered by earthquakes. He brought the popu- lation back in 140, and built here the Jami' Mosque." (Hil, 166 ; Yak., iv. 579; Mar., iii. 124.) " Kafarbayy^ is the name of the town opposite Al Massissah, on the Jaihan River. At the present day (thirteenth century) it is in the hands of Ibn LayCn (Leo, King) of Armenia. It was, of oldy a large town, with markets and strong walls. It had four gates. It was ruined in very early days, was rebuilt by Ar Rashld, who fortified it and dug the ditch, and after him by Al Mdmdn, who increased the taxes due for all the houses and Khftns. But the building of the city was only finished in Al Mu'tasim's days." (Yftk., iv. 287 ; Mar., ii. 502.) Abu'l Fidft and Dimashlu (Dim., 214 ; A. F., 251) add nothing to the foregoiog. From Al Masstssah to Bayyas (Is., I. H., Id.), t or 2 marches ; to *Ain Zarbah (Is., I. H., Id.), i march ; to Adhanah (Is., I. H. Id.), I march or day; to IskandarQnah (id;, 4 miles; down to the sea-shore (Id.), 12 miles. Al MA.ssis>AH (2). — ''A village of Damascus near Bait Libya." (Ydk., iv. 558 : Mar., iii. 112.) Masvab, OR Masvaf. — A celebrated and well-fortified castle belonging to the Ismaiiians (Assassins). It is situated near the coast in the district of Tarabulus." (Yak., iv., 556 ; Mar, iii. in.) **Masy4f," says Abu4 Fid^ is a beautiful place, with a small river coming from a spring. It has gardens ; also a strong for- tress. It is a centre of the Ismailian Doctrine, and lies on the eastern flank of the Jabal al Lukk&m, about a league south of B^n (Mons Fenandus), and a day's journey west of Hims." (A. F., 239.) The Castles of the Ismaiiians, or Assassins, were passed by the tmveller Ibn Batfitah in 1355. Besides Hisn al Masyftf, he mentions, as lying in the same neighbourhood : Hisn al KadmOs, Hisn al Maiaakaii, lii:>n ul UUaikah, and Hisn ul Kahf. (1. B., i. 166.) Al Masivah. — "A village lying near the Fortress of Hunain, after leaving Baniyas." (I. J., 304.) biyiiizua by GoOgle PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Al MatirCn.— A place in Syria near Damascus." (Yik., iv. 395 ; Mar., iii. 32.) MayAnjj. — " Said to be a place in Syria," writes YakCit, " but I know not where it is situated" (Ylk., iv. 708; -Mar., iiL tSa.) HiSN AL MAzdAsiyyah, or Al MurAdisiyvah. — " A fortress lying 8 miles from BairOt, and 6 miles from Nahr al Kalb (the Dog River)," (Id, 17.) Al MazimAn.— " A village lying about i league from 'Askalib). The celebrated batUe between the Franks and the people of Ascalon took place here." (YSk., iv. 392 ; Mar., iii. 30.) MiHRAj. — "A mountain pass in Syria. ' (Yak., iv. 424 ; Mar., ii. 48.) MiKNA. — " A village near Ailah. The Prophet made a capitu- lation with the people of this place ; it was inhabited by Jews,** (Yak , iv. 610; Mar., iii. 135.) MiMAs. — * A small fortified town which lies on the sea, and belongs to Ghazzah." (Muk., 174.) " Mimas to 'Askalan going west is 20 miles," (Id.) MlmSSy or Maimis, is the " Majuma of Gaza" mentioned by Antoninus Martyr (see P. P. Text, p. 26), and by Greek geo- graphers is called MoioS/m. Quatrem^re (Sulians Mamlouks^ iu 229) says that the name is apparently of Egyptian origin, and comes from the two words Ma and lom^ the two meaning " mari- time town.*' Both Ascalon and Gaza had ports called Mahma; and Jamnia likewise, according to Pliny. Al Mizzah — " A village of Damascus. It lies to the south, just above the village of An Nairdb. It is a very fine village, with a brge mosque and a tank." (I. J., 219.) "Al Mizzah," says \'akut, "is a large and rich village in the upper part of the Ghautah (of Damascus), on the side of the mountain. It is situated half a league from Damascus. It is called Mizzah Kalb, because the tomb of Dahyah al Kalbi, the Prophet's Companion, is here." (Yak, iv. 522 ; Mar., iii. 91.) Mu'an, or Ma'an — " A small town," writes Istakhri, in 951, "on the border of the desert. Its inhabitants are of the Omayyah clan, and of their clients, and travellers are well re- X. ceived there. It is a fortress of the Sharah District" (Is., 65 \ I. H.» 124 ; copied by A. F. 229 ) biyuizca by GoOglc MV*AN, OR MA'AN.^MVTAH, S09 " Mu'an, or Ma*^," says YakGt, " is a town on the edge of the desert of Syria, towards the Hijja^ in the Balka Province. It is at the present day ruined (thirteenth century). The Haj} (Pilgrim) road goes through it, and there is a station there." (Y&k., iv. 571 ; Mar, til. 118.) " Mu'lii, in the Kaiak Province," writes Dimashki, ''is a small city on the edge of the desert It was built by some of the Omayyad lamily who settled here, but afterwards departed. At the present day it is a station of the Hajj, and there is a market here for their provisioning and comfort." (Dim , 213.) Abu-l Fid;i repeats the above, and adds, Mu'an lies a day s march from Ash Shauhak." (A. F., 229.) Ma'an was visited by Ibn Batutah in J 35 5. "It is," he says, "the hist place in Syria. We went thence down the pass called 'Akabah as Sawan into the desert." (I. B , r. 25; ) Al Muhajjah. -"Une of the villages of the Hauran. i'hey say there are buried in its Jami' Mosque, seventy prophets. There is also here a stone to which they make visitation, saying that the Prophet Muhammad once sat upon it But the truth is that he never went beyond Busrft." (Y^k., tv. 424 ; Mar., iii. 47.) Al Muhammadiyyah. — *' A place near Damascus." (Y4k., iv. 430; Mar., ill 51.) MuHBiu — *'A place in the lands of the Ghassftn tribe in Syria." (Yilk., iv. 422 ; Mar., iii. 46.) MuKt& — "A village of the Haur&n." (Man, iii. 140.) HiSN At MutAWWAN. — " A fortress lying 15 miles from Hisn al Basd, and 25 miles from R4s Kurkus.*' (Id., 24 ) It is said to be the ancient Poilike. Al Munai 1 1 rah. - a fortress in Syria, situated near iara- bulus." (Yak., iv. 673; Mar., iii. 166.) Hisn MCrah. — "A fortress ljuilt by the Khalif Hisham, in the pass called Uarb al Lukkam, not Air from the 'Akabah al Baidl" {VAX., 167.) Yakiit calls the place Mauz^^r. (Y^,iv. 679 ; Mar., iii. 171.) Murran. — A place in Syria, near Damascus. The Convent of Dair Murrin is called from it." (Yak., iv., 480 ; Mar., iii. 71.) MOtah.^ " Mfitah is counted among- the hamlets of Maib, and biyuizua by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, here aro tho tombs of J a "Jar al Tayyar (the Flyer), and 'Abd Allah ibn Rawahah. ' (Muk., 17S. Mentioned also by Vb., 114, and Id, 5 ) "Mutah," ?ays \*nkut, "is a village of '.he Ralka I'rovincc, in Syria, l\*ing 12 miles from Adhruh. There are here the toml>s of Ja'al'ar (brother of Ali) ihn Abi Talih, Zaid ibn Harilhah (the Prophet s Fieedman), and Abd AUah ibn Rawihah ; and over each of their tombs is buih a mausoleum. They were sent by the Prophet in the year 8 (6t9) ngunst the Greeks* and were all slain, and the troops under their command put to the rout.^ (Vak^ iv. 677 ; Mar., ill 17a) Al MCtafikah (tWb Overturned). — Ahmad ibn Yahyi ibn J&hk rdates that there iras a city in Syria, near Salamiyyah, called Al Mfltafikah, which was overwhelmed with all its inhabi- tants— all except one hundred souls. These left that place, and came and built one hundred houses, and they called the hamlet "where they had made their houses Salam Miyah (Peace for the Hundred), of which the people made Salamiyyah. By another account Al \fi>tafikah is stated to be the cities of Lot's (people, which were all o: erturnfd.'^ (Vak., iv. 676 ; Mar., iii. 170.) Al Mt'THAkKAb (Phk Pikrcfo). — "A small fort (on the northern frontiers) not very far from Al Kanisah. It was founded and built by the Khalif Omar ibn 'Abd al 'Aziz. His pulpit is seen here, also a Kuran written by him. There lived here a people of the descendants of 'Abd Shams, who have renounced the world, and left all gain, and they keep to what is strictly per- mitted only, by the law/* (Is., 63 ; I. H., 121.) Hisn al Muthakkab lies at the fool of the Jabal LukMUn and on the sea-shore." (Mas., i. a6.) **Hisn al Muthakkab,'' reports Idrlsi, '*is a fort situated in a beautiful plaiiL" (Id., 24.) " Al Muthakkab," writes YSkOt, ** is a fortress on the sea, stand- ing near Al Massissah. It is so called because it stands among mountains, all of which are /uneJ as thoiiLzh with great openings. The first who built the fort of Al Muthakkab was the Khalif insharn ibn Whd al Malik. Hassan ibn Mahawaih, of Aiuioch, his engineer, found when he dug the ditch a huge leg of unique biyiiizua by GoOgI AN SABK.'^NABULUS. 5" length. This he sent to Hisham." (Yak., iv. 414; Mar., iiL 41 ; and copied from Bil , 166.) From Hisn al Muthakkab to Hisn at l in4t, by sea (Id.), 8 miles ; to Jazirah al Basd, by sea (Id.)? 10 miles. An Nabk. — village lying north of Damascus, with much ranning water, and broad arable fields." (I. J., 261.) An Nabk,** says YlUcOt, ''is a line village with excellent pro* visiomnent It lies between Damascus and Hims. There is here a curious spring which runs cold in summer, and with clear, excellent, sweet water. They say its source is at YabrAd." (YAk., iv. 739 ; Mar., iti. 195.) An Nabk to KM, (Mule, I. K.), i march, or 12 miles; to Al Kutayyifah (Muk., I. K.), t march, or 20 miles. Nabtal. — " The name of a place in Syria " (Y&k., iv. 738 ; Mar., iii. 194.) Nabulus (Nkapoi is, Shechem). — ** An ancient city in Palestine. Near by to it are the two sacred mountains. Under the town is an underground city hollowed out in the rocks.* Its inhabitants are Arabs, foreigners (Ajam), and Samaritans." (Yb., 116, wntmg in a.d. 891 .) "Nabulus," says Istakhri, "is the city of the Samaritans who assert that the Holy City is Nabulus (and not Jerusalem). The Samaritans possess no other city elsewhere in the world; and the people of Jerusalem say that no Samaritans exist elsewhere ban here, on the whole face of the earth." (Is., 58 ; I. H., 113.) " Nabulus," writes Mukaddasi, " lies among the mountains. It abounds in olive-trees, and they even name it the 'Little Damascus.' The town, situated in the valley, is shut in on either hand by the two mountains (of Ebal and Gerizim). Its market-place extends from gate to gate^ and a second market goes to the centre of the town. The Great Mosque is in its midst, and is very finely paved. The city has through it a stream of running water ; its houses are built of stone, and some remarkable nnili are to be seen here." (Muk., 174 ) " Nabulus," reports Idrisl, " is the city of the Samaritans. There is here the well that Jacob dug — peace be on bun I — * See Gti^rio, Samarie, i. 399, for this underground city. biyiiizca by GoOglc PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Avhcrc alsu the Lord Messiah sat, asking of water to drink from a Samaritan woman. There is at the present day a fine churcli built over it. The people of Jerusalem say that no Samaritans are found elsewhere but here." (Id., 4.) " Outnde the town of Nibulus^" writes 'Ali of Herat, in 11 73, ^'15 a mosque where they say Adam made his prostration in prayer. There is here the mountain (Geiisim) which the Jews believe to be the place of the sacrifice (made by Abraham), and they believe that he who was sacrificed was Isaac — ^peace be on him I The Jews hold this mountain in the greatest veneiation. Its name Is Kazfcun (an accepted error for Karizim, Gerlzim, see p. 484). It is mentioned In the Pentateuch. The Samaritans pray turning towards it There is here a spring, under a cave, which they f venerate and make pilgrimage to. The Samaritans are very . numerous in this town. There is also near NAbuUis the spring of I Al Khudr (Ehas), and the field of Yftsuf as Sadik ( fosepii) ; further. Joseph is buried at the foot of the tree at this place, and this is the true story." (A. H., Oxf. MS., foh'o 34.) " Nabulus," writes Yakftt, "is a celebrated town in Filastin, lying between two mountains which straiten it in so that the site has no breadth, but is drawn out in the length. Nibulus has much water, for it lies adjacent to a mountain, where the soil is stony. It is 10 leagues from NIkbulus to Jerusalem. The town has wide lands^ and a fine district, all situated in the Jabal al Kuds (the Holy Mountains). Outside Nibulus is a mountain, in which, as they relate, Adam prostrated himself in prayer ; and there is here the mountain in which, according to the belief of the Jews» the sacrifice (of Abraham) was offered up : and the victim according to them was Ishak (Isaac)--peace be on him !* The Jews have great veneration for this mountain ; they call it Kazlrim. NILbufus is inhabited by the Samaritans, who live in this place alone, and only go elsewhere for [he purposes of trade, or advantage. The Samaritans are a sect of the Jews. They have a large mosque in Nabulus (i2?5), which city they call Al Kuds — the Holy Citv— and the Holy City of Jerusalem is accursed by them, and when one * The Muftlim tradition asi^ts that it w«s bhmad, not Isaac, whom Abraham was about to sacrifice. biyiiizua by Google NABULUS, S»3 of them is forced to go there, he lakes a stone and throws it against the city of Jerusalem. The Mountain (of Gehzim) is mentioned in the Pentateuch. The Samaritans piay towards it. There is here a spring in a cave which they venerate and pay visi- tation unto^ and for this reason it is that there are so many Samaritans in this city ofNftbulus." (Y^., iv. 724 ; Mar., iii. 188.) "N&bulus,** says Dimashki, "is in the Iklim Simirah (the district of the Samaritans). It is a very fertile and pleasant city, lying between two mountains, but spaciously situated It possesses running water in plenty and excellent baths ; also a fine mosque in which prayer is said, and the KurSn recited night and day, men being appointed thereto. The town stands like a palace in its garden^., and Iku i^rcai iiunihers of trees. The oil of its olives is carried into all the lands of Egypt. Syria, the Hijja/, and the Arabian desert. They send also of its oil to Damascus, for use in the (Great) Oniayyad Mosque, yearly, a thousand Kintars of the Damascene measure. From the oil also they make soap of a fine quality, which is exported to all lands, and to the Islands of the Mediterranean. They grow in Nabulus a kind of yellow melon sweeter than all other kinds of melon. There are the two mountains, called Jabal Zaita (the Mounts of Olives), and to these the Samaritans make their pilgrimage ; their sacrifices also are made on this mountain ; they slay lambs and bum their flesh. In no other city are there as many Samaritans as there are here, for in all the other cities of Palestine together there are not of the Samaritans a thousand souls It is said that when a Muslim, a Jew, a Samaritan, and a Christian come together on the road, the Samaritan will take company in preference with the Muslim." (Dim., 200.) "Nabulus," says Abu 1 lida, in 1321, "lies in the Jordan Province. It is related that when Jeroboam (\*arbu aiaj took with him the ten tribes, and revolted against the sons of Solomon, the son of David, he went and established himself at Nabulus. .^nd on the hill above Nal)ulus he built a great temple, for he denied that David and Solomon and the re;>t were the prophets of Israel, and he only held to Moses and Aaron and Joshua as prophets. And he made a law for the Samaritans, and a religion, 53 biyuizua by Google 5M PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, forbidding them to make the pilgrimage to the Holy City of TtTusulciu lest they should perceive the excellence of the kings who \vere the sons of Soknnun, and depart from him, Jeroboam. Tliis was how the sect of the Samaritans was instituted, and took its ri^e. Their place of pilgrimage was to a mountain that is above Nabulus." (A. 241.) Nabulus was visited by the traveller Ibn Batfitah in 1355. He speaks of it as full of trees and streams, full also of olives, the oil of which they export to Damascus and Cairo. "They make here," he says, " a sweetmeat of the carob-fruit, which they export to Damascus and even Cairo, and the lands beyond. They boil down the carob-fruit, and then press the mass together. An excellent kind of water-melon, called after N&bulus, is grown here. There is a fine J&mi' Mosque, in the middle of which is a tank of sweet water." (L B., i. 128.) Nabulus to Ar Ramlah (Is., I. H., Muk., Id.), i day ; to Ta'asir (Muk.), 2 stages; to Jerusalem (Muk., Id.), i march, or 2 days : to the Lebanon Mountains (Muk.), i march ; to Jericho (Muk.), I march ; to Kafar Sallam (Muk ), t march ; to Baisdn (Muk.), I march ; to Kaisariyyah (Id.y, 1 march ; to Damascus (Id.), 6 marches. Nahlah (The Honev-Bee). — "A village lying 3 miles from Ba'albakk." (Yak., iv. 765 : Mar., iii. 202.) Nahr ai. K.m.b. — "A small fort on the sea, thence to H;mi al Mazdasiyyah is 6 miles, and to Juniyyah is 4 miles." (Id., 17.) Hisx AN Na'imah. — "This fort is like a small town. An Na'imah itself is a fine town. Its lands produce for the most part Kharn(ib-trees (Carob^ St. John's bread), the equal of which are not to be found in any other part of the world, either for size or for excellence. They export the fruit thereof to all parts of Syria and to Egypt, and it is from these that the so-called 'Syrian' Khamftbs have become so celebrated. For although the Khamikb is found very good and in plenty in other parts of Syria, yet at An NftMmah is it of the best kind and most plentiful." (Id., 16.) Hisn an N&'imah to Hisn KalamAn (Id.), 7 miles ; to Bairfit (Id), 24 miles. An NairAb.— ''This village," says Ibn Jubair, " btaiidb nvi lur biyiiizua by Google AN NAIRAB,—SAWA, from the Hill of the Messiah, near Damascus. It has many beautiful gardens, and a mo$que> than which nowhere can be seen finer. Its terrace-roof is covered with mosaics in coloured marbles, so that one would imagine to look at it that it was brocade. There is in this mosque a tank, and places for the ablu- tion, with running water that flows out by ten openings. There is a Hammftm (bath) also in this place, for, in fact, in most of the villages of these parts there are found Hammams." (I. J., 279.) "In the Jami' Mosciuc of An Nairah, in a chamber, and in the eastern side thereof, is a tomb, said to be that of the mother of Mary — may Allah vouchsafe her peace !" (I. J., 283.) ** Nairalj," says Yakftt, ** is a celebrated village of Damascus lying half a league away from the city in the midst of gardens. It is one of the pleasantest places I, Yakt^t, have ever seen. They say there is here the Musalla (or Place of Prayer) of Al Khidr." (V4k., iv. 855 ; Mar., iiL 356.) Nakab *Azib (Thb Passage of *Azib).— "A place situated a day's ride for a horseman from Jerusalem, towards the desert. It lies between Jerasalem and the Tlh (Desert of the Wanderings). It is mentioned in one of the traditions of the Ptophet" (Yak., iv. 803 ; Mar., iii. 335.) Nakab ShiiAr. — "A pass in the mountains of Jabal ash Sharfth lying between the Balki and Al Madlnah, to the east of the Hajj road. It opens into a broad, verdant plain overlooked by Jabal Fartn (Paran). It lies to the south of Al Kaiak.*' (Yak., iii. 259 ; Mar., ii. 95.) Nas!b!n. — "A Village lying near Haiab (Aleppo). Tall Nasibin, too, is a hill near Halab." (Yak., iv. 789 ; Mar., iii. 214.) NawA (Xkvi ). — " The villages of Job, his lands, and the place of his washings are nil here. Nawa is the chief city of the Haurdn and Al Bathaniyyah Provinces. The lands are most rich in wheat and grain." (Muk., 160.) " Three miles, or thereabouts, from Nawi," says Mas'ikdi, " is the Mosque of Job, and the spring where he washed is to be seen At this day, which is the year 332 (943). It is celebrated through^ out the countiy of Naw& and Al JauUn, also in all the parts between Damascus and TabaHyyah, in the Jordan Province. In 33-* biyiiizca by GoggJ^ 5i6 PALESTTNE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. this mosque also is kept the stone on which Job reposed at night, he and his wife Ruhmft, during the days of affliction." (Mas., 1.91-) " Nawii," writes Y&ktt, " is a small town of the Haurftn. It is said to have been its capital. It was the dwelling-place of Job — peace be on him I — and the tomb of Sam (Shem) ibn Ndh is here. Naw& lies 2 stages from Damascus." (Y4k., iv. 815; Mar., Nawa to 'Akabah 'Afik (Muk.), i march ; to Damascus (Muk.), I march. An Nawak!r (The CurrrNGs), — "These are ilncc white mountains, very high, and overhanging the sea-shore. They lie about 18 miles from Hisn az Zib, and 5 from Iskandahyyah (Alexandroschene)." (Id., ii.) "An Nawakir, " says ^ dkiit, " is a cleft in a mountain between 'Akkah and SClr (Tyre), on the sea-coast. They say Al Iskandar, (Alexander the Great) wished to travel by the coast road to Egypt, or from Egypt to 'InLk ; and it was said to him, * This mountain is a barrier between thee and the coast, and it is necessary that thou shouldst go round it.* But he commanded the hill to be pierced, and that the road should pass through it ; and from this reason is it so called." (Y4k., iv. 816 ; Mar., iii. 234.) Nawaz. — ** A large village in the Jabal as SummlUc of the Halad> (Aleppo) District They grow here very large red apples, of an excellent and sweet flavour.'* (Vak., iv. 816 ; Mar., iiL 233.) NIbtCn. — A quarter of Damascus. It lies near the quarter of the Bridge of the Bani Mudlij, and the Sftk al Ahad (the Sunday Market). It is to ihc cast of JairOn, and near the old (quarter of the) cobblers.' (Yak., iv. 855 ; Mar., iii. 256.) NihlIn.— "A village of Hahb (Aleppo)." (Yak., iv. 760; Mar., iii. 202.) NiRiNNis. — " A village of the Balka Provmce of Syria." . (Yak., iv. 806 : Mnr., iii. 228.) An Nukhail (The Litile Palm). — "A district in Syria." (Yak., iv. 771 ; Mar., iii. 205.) An Numraniyyah. — "A village of the Ghautah of, Damascus. It is called after one Numrdn ibn Zaid, to whom the Khalif Mu'Swiyah gave it in. fief." (Y^k., iv. 813 ; Mar., iiL 231.) biyiiizua by Google RABAB.-^RAHBAH ASH SHAM. 517 Rabab. — "A Wad] of the country of 'Udhrah, lying towards Syria, beyond Ailah.' (Yak., iii. 74S; Man, i. 459.) Rabad ad Darain (The Suburb of the two Palaces.) — "A suburb of Aleppo, before the Bib Antftkiyyah (Gate of Antioch). In this suburb is the bridge over the Kuwaik River/* (Y&k., ii. 570 ; Man, i. 459.) Ra'bAn. — '*A town of the Thugbfir (or Frontier Fortresses), lying between HaUb and Sumais&t, and near the Euphrates. It is counted as of the 'Awisim Province. There is here a castle under a hill, which was thrown down by earthquake in the year 340 (95 1 ) ; but Saif ad 1 )aulah ordered it to be rebuilt, and the work was completed in thirty se\ cn days. This place was first conquered by Abu 'Ubaidah aitcr Manbij, in the year 16 (637)." (Vak., ii. 791 ; Mar., i. 474.) Rafanivyah (Rapjiania). — "A district and city of the Hims Province. It is called also Rafaniyyah of ladmur (i^almyra). Some count it as a town belonging to the T:ir4bulus (Tripoli) District of the Syrian coast" (Yak., ii. 796 ; Mar., i. 476.) Rafh. — " The last town in Syria on the road from Ar Ramlah to Egypt." (Yb., 117 ) " Rafh," says Y^kiit, is a sution on the road to Egypt, after Ad Dib^m. It lies 2 days from 'Askalin, and the sand b^ns here. It is now (thirteenth century) in ruins, but was of old a flourishing town, with a market and a mosque, and hostelries. Rafh to Ghazzah is 18 miles. Muhallabi writes (in 990 a.d.) that about 3 miles from Rafh, in the direction of Ghazzah, are many sycamore trees that border both sides of the road, to right and to left. There are, he says, near a thousand trees here, their branches touching each the next, and they extend for close on a couple of miles. South of Rafh the sands of the Jifar District begin, and the traveller strikes into the desert" (Yak., il 796 ; Mar., i. 476.) Rafh to Ar Ramlah (Is., I. H., Muk., Id.), 2 da>'s ; to Ghazzah (fs., I. H., Muk., Id., I. K ), I march, or 16 miles: to A\ 'Arish (Is., I. H., Id., I. K.), I march, or 24 miles to 'Askalan (Muk.), I march. Rahbah ash ShAm (Rahbah of Syria). — **Kot far distant biyiiizua by GoOgle PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. from Ar Rakkah," says Ibn Jubair, " lies Rahbah of ibn Tauk, commonly called Rahbah of Syria. It is a very cekbiated town.'' (L J., 250.) «* Rahbah of Malik ibn Tauk/' says YAkflt, " Ues 8 days distant from Damascus^ 5 from Halab^ and some 30 leagues from Ar Rakkah." (Y&k., ii. 764 ; Mar., i. 464.) Rahbah Khalid. — **A square at Damascus. It is called after the Omayyad Kb^id ibn Asid." (Yik., ii. 762 ; Mar., i. 4^M-) Raim n.— " A village of the Jordan Province." (Yuk., 11. 886; Mar., i. 497.) The latter writes Raishun. RAjiL. — " Harrah Rajil (the volcanic cone of Rajil) is said to h*e between As Sirr and the hi^'hlnnds of the Hauran. Rajil further is a V\ adi that goes down troni Harrah Rajil and debouches near As Sirr." (Yak., ii. 728 ; Mar., i. 452.) Ar Rakkah. — "This city lies in the middle of the Diyar (Country of) Mudar, and is much frequented by travellers and merchants. It is an emporium of merchandise, and is a fine city, lying on the eastern bank of the £uphrates. The city possesses bazaars, and merchandise^ and workshops, and its people are wdl off. It is the capital of Diy^ Mudar, and is called in the Greek language BSl&ntkds (probably a mistake for Callinicus). To this city belong the towns of Bajarwdn, Harr&n, and Ar RuhS (Edessa).^ (Id., 25.) '•You come to Ar Rakkah," says Ibn Jubair, "after crossing the Euphrates at Kala'at an Najm. To your left along the Euphrates southward is this city of Ar Rakkaii, and lying on the river." (I. J., 250.) Ar Rakkah to Halab (Is., I. H.) is 4 days; to Ar Rusafah (Muk ), ^ march, or (Id), 24 miles; to Damascus (Id), iS marches. Ramah. — "A village in which is the Makam (or station) of Abraham the Friend" (A. H., Oxf MS., folio 42.) " It lies in the Jerusalem District." (Yak., ii. 738 ; Mar., i. 456.) Jewish tradition identifies this place with the Grove of Mamre ; it lies a short distance north of Hebron, on the Jerusalem road. biyiiizua by GoOgI RAMMADAH.—AR R AST AN. 519 RammAdah (i). — The name of a place in the Fibsttn Pro- vince. It is called, to distinguish it, Rammidah of Ar Ramlah.'' (Yak.» ii. 813 ; Mar^ i. 481.) Ar Ramm Adah (2).^" A large quarter, almost the size of a town, lying outside Halab (Aleppo), but connected with that city by houses. It has markets, and there is a separate governor (Waii) over it." (Vak., ii. 813 ; Mar., i. 481.) RamCsah. — "One of the domains of ILilab, lying 2 leagues from that city, in the direction of Kinnasrin." (Vak., ii. 738 ; Mar., i. 456.) Ras al Hisn (The Foktrlss Hi:ad). — "The name of a small well populated town, lying on the sea-shorc, in the district of Tripoli, on a bay. This bay measures across in a straight line 15 miles, but round by the shore line it is 30 miles. It is called the (JQn) Bay of 'Arkah. On the middle part of the bay are three forts, standing near by one to another. The name of the first of them, lying nearest to Tripoli, is LfttArfis (reading uncertain ; other MSS. give LflrQri!ks> Likkikriis^ LawtdrAs, and LawaisarAs). The name of the next is Al Babtyyah (other MSS. B^ini or Basmiyah), and this fort lies on a stream of running water called Nahr Bftbiyyah. The third fort is called Hisn al Ham&m (the Doves* Fort). They all three lie one close to the other." (Id., 28.) Jabal RAs al KhinzIr (The Mount of the Hog's Head)^ — "On this mountain is a large convent (Dair), and this is the first place in the country of Armenia, and the last in the Province of Syria." (Id., 2;^, writing in 1154.) I'rom Jalxal Ras al Rhin/ir to Hisn as Suwaidiyyah (Id.) is 20 miles : and to Hisn RusOs (hi.) 10 miles. Ak Ra'sh.a. — "A town {pcUadah) in Syria." (Vak., ii. 791; Mar., i. 474.) Ar Rastan (Aretuusa). — " Rastan lies half a stage south of HamSh, near a great arched bridge of stone crossing the 'Asi (Orontes). The city was laid in ruins by the Khalif 'Omar ibn al Khattilb. There are immense ruins here, and the Greeks of Constantinople assert that there are great quantities of treasure concealed in this q>ot ; but Allah alone knows the truth.*' (I. J.^ biyiiizua by GoOglc PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, " Ar Rastan," says Yakiit, " is a small and ancient town, lying half-way between Haniah and Hims. It stood on the (Orontes) Nahr MimAs, which is the 'Asi of to-day. It is now in mint but the remains still show what was its former splendour. The ruins crown a height overlooking the 'Asi River." (Y&k., ii. 778; Mar., L 470.) " Ar Rastan,'^ says Abu-l Fida, was anciently a large town, and was very populous of old, but now it lies in ruins. Each of the houses here is so large as to be almost like a village, with ruins everywhere round of build iu^^< and walls. Some of the arches, too, remain, also some of the city gates, and its walls in part, and its water channels. It lies on the south of the Nahr al 'Asi, crowning a htU aimo^^t entirely composed of rubbish which stretches away towards Hims. Ar Rastan stand> hetween Hinis and Hamah. They say it was ruined in the early days of the Muslim ronquehl." (A. 231.) Ar Rawandan. — "A fortified castle in a fine well wooded district of the Halab Province." (Vak., ii. 741.) The AfarasU adds that "it stands in the District of Al JCkmah." (Mar, l 456.) "Ar Rawandan," says Abu-1 Fida, "lies in the Kinnasrin Province. It is a high built fortress, standing on a high white hill. It has springs, and gardens, and fruit-trees in a beautiful valley. Below it flows the liver 'Ifrin. It lies about 2 days* jouiney north-west of Halab (Aleppo)^ and north of H&rim. The *Ifr(n River runs from north to south past Ar R&wandiin, down into the 'Amk Plain of H&rim, through a broad valley between mountains. In this valley are villages and oliveyards in plenty. It is one of the districts of Halab, and is called Al jftmah." (A. F., 267.) RAwiVAH. — "A village of the Ghaiitah of Damascus. i here is here the tomb of Umm Kulthum, one of the wives of \\\t Prophet." (Yak., ii. 743 ; Mar., i. 457.) RAyas.— "A mountain in the Syrian Sea." (Vak., ii. 745; Mar., i. 457.) RiHA.— "A small town near Halab (Aleppo), and one of the pleasantest and best of the places of God's earth. It has gardens and trees and rivers, and no place near Halab is pleasanter than biyiiizua by Google RUBWAH.^AR RVSAFAH, it It lies on the slope of the Jahal Lubnftn (Lebanon)." (Yak.» ii. 885 ; Mar., i. 496.) The name is spelt the same as RlhIL, for Arihd, Jericha This Rth& lies south-west of Aleppo. RuBWAH (Hill). — " A place that is praised in the Kurdn (ch. xxiii. 52), in the words, 'And \vc apf)ointed the Son of Mary and Ills Mother fur a sign ; and we pscjiarcd an abode for both in a lofty spot, quiet and watered with s()rini;s.' This is said to refer to Damascus, and at a league from Damascus, on the slope of Jahal Kasiyiln, is a j)lace than which no spot of earth is more charming. Here a tall mosque overlooks the Nahr (Ri% cr) liarada. It is built immediately on the bank of the Nahr Thaura, where there is a bridge over the river. The Nahr Vazid is above it, and its waters irrigate the gardens round. In the neighbourhood is a small cave, much visited, which they say is that mentioned in the Kurin, and they say that Jesus was bom here." (Yllk., ii. 752 ; Mar., t. 460.) See also above, in chapter vi., p. 235. Ar Ruhbah. — *' On the edge of the Lajdh (Trachonitis), of the Sarkhad District, is a village called Ar Ruhbah." (Y&k., ii. 762 ; Mar., i. 464.) ROhIn. — "A village on the Jabal Lubn&n (Lebanon), and of the villages of Halab (AIep|)o). On the mountain-side here, and much visited, is a Mashhad (oratory), said to be the tomb of Kuss iljn Sa .dah. At Ruhin also is said to be the tomb of Sham'im as Safa (Simon the Pure) ; but this last is not exact, for the tomb of Sham'iin (Simon Peter) is to be seen at Rome (RQmiyah) in the L,'reat ( hurch there, in a sarcopliagus of silver that hangs by chains from the roof of the cbanceL" (Yak., ii. ^29 ; Mar., i. 487.) Possibly this Simon is not St Peter, but Simon Magus. ROilAH.^ — " A small village near Tabariyyah. YahadA (Judah), son of Jacobs is buried here." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 29 fwm.) Ar Rumailah.^"A village of Jerusalem." (Yllk., ii. 824; Mar., i. 484.) Ar RusAfah (The Causeway). — " One of the forts built by the Khalif (Hishllm) of the House of Omayyah. All round it lie habitations and populous villages. It has bazaars in which biyuizua by Google 532 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, there is much baying and selling, and taking and giving." (Id^ 26.) Rus&fah of Syna, or Rusalah of Hishilm ibn 'Abd al Malik," writes Yakut, " lies 4 leagues on the desert road to the west of Ar Rakkah. It was built !)y the Khalil Hisli^in, when the plague was raging in Syria. He used to go there in summcr-tiaie. Their drinking-water is from cisterns, for the Euphrates is too far off. They have also wells, 120 ells deep — but this water i> saltish — which were dug bv An Nu'nian ibn Al Harith ibn Ai Aiham, for the place was inhabited by the Ghassanides before Hishani rebuilt the walls and founded his palace here." The physician Ibn Butlan, in his epistle to Hilal ibn Muhsin, written in 443 ( 1 05 1), says ; ' Between Ar Rusifah and Ar Rahbah is a 4 days' journey. The palace called Kasr Rusafah ts a fortress only second to the abode of the Khalifate at Baghdad. It is constructed of stone. Within it is a mighty church, the exterior of which is ornamented with gold mosaics, begun by order of Constantine, the son of Helena. Ar Rusifah was rebuilt by Hish4m ibn 'Abd al Malik, who took up his residence theie^ having come up to escape the gnats of the banks of the Euphrates. Under the church is a cistern (or crypt) dug in the ground, that is of a like area to tfiat of the church itself: it Ls vaulted, and the roof is supported on marble pillars ; it is paved also with mari)le slabs, and is filled with rain-water. The inhabi- tants of the fort are mostly Christians. Their means of livelihood lies in \ho convoying of caravans and the carrying of goods, but they are robbers and thieves. This palace stands in the middle of a perfectly flat desert, the borders of which the eye cannot reach and you only sec the horizon. We travelled thence to Halab in 4 marches.' Another name of Rusafah Hisham (says YakOt) was Az ZaurL It belonged to An Nu'min, and after his days was ruined. In old days An Nu'mftn kept his treasures here, and there was over it a cross, for An Nu*min was a Christian. There was no river here, although they called it Az Zaura (the Crooked, a name generally applied to a river).'" (YSk., ii. 784 and 955 ; Mar., i. 472 and 521.) "Ar Rusifah of KinnasHn," writes Abu-1 Fid&, *'is caUed biyiiizca by Google RUSIS.—SABYAH, 523 Rusdfah Hish^m to distinguish it It lies in the desert opposite Ar Rakkah, about a day or less west of the Euphrates. There is another Ar Rusdfah, also in Syria, near MasiyAf (which belonged to the Assassins).*" (A. F., 271.) Ar Rusftfah to Ad Darl'ah (MuIlX 2 marches^ or (I. K.) 40 miles, also called Az Zarft'ah (Id.), 24 mWcs ; to Ar Rakkah (Muk.), } march, or (Id.) 24 miles. RC'sts. — "A Kurah (or district) of the *Awdsim Province, lying along tiie bca coast between Aniakiyyah and TarsGs." (Yak., ii. 840 ; Mar., 1. 490.) HisN Ri si s.— "This fortress lies on a river, and stands under the Ras al Khin/ir ' (see above, p. 519). From Misn Rusus to Jabal Ka.s al Khinzir is 10 miles; and to Hisn at Tinal (by sea) is 15 miles. (Id., 24.) RCyan. — "One of the villages of Halab (Aleppo). It lies near Sab'ln." (Ydk., ii. 873 ; Mar., i, 492.) As Sab* (i). — "The spot where will take place the rcsurrec tion, according to Ibn al A'libt It is situated in a plain of the Filasttn Province of Syria." (Y&k., iii. 34 ; Mar., ii. to.) As Sab' (2) (Beersmeba). — " A district in the Filasttn Province, lyio^ between Jerusalem and Al Karak, in which are seven walls, whence the place is called As Sa^ (the Seven). It belonged to (the Atab general) 'Amr ibn Al 'As (the Conqueror of Egypt), and his son died here." (Y4k., iii. 34 ; Mar., ii. to.) Sabastivah (i) (Sebaste, Samaria). — "A place near Nabulus." (Vb., 116.) "Siabasti yah," says VAkAt, " is a town of the Filastin Province belonprinc to Jerusalem, and lying 2 davs from it. It is of the Nal)ulu.s district. There are here the lonihs of Zakariyyah and of Vahya, the son of Zakariyyah (John the liaptist), and of many other prophets and holy men." (Vak., iii. 33 ; Mar., ii. 10.) Sabastivah (a). — " A town near Sumaisdt, and of its depen- dencies, lying on the Upper Euphrates. It is a walled town. (Yak., iii. 33 ; Mar., ii. 9.) SabI.s (Seventy). — A village at the gate of Halab (Aleppo).' (Ylk., iii. 34 ; Mar., iL 10.) Sabvam. — " A village of Ar Ramlah of the Filasttn Province.' (Ydk., iii. 37 ; Mar., ii. ta.) 534 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. As Sadir,— " A place in Syria." (Y&k^ iii. 360 ; Mar., ii. 143) Safad, or Safat (Safed). — "A fortress," says Dimashki, writing in 1300, "on the summit of the Jabal Kan*an (mountains of Canaan), in the territory of Al JarmaL It was originally but a village, and they built there a fortress, calling it Safat, and after- wards Safad. It is an impregnable fortress, and was, at one time,' held by the company of Franks called Templars (Ad Diw : Sultan Baibars laid siege to them here and took the place (in r266 A.ij.), and put to the sword everyone who was in the for- tress, slaying them on a hill top near by the pl ice. Then he threw clown (the fortress), and built therein a round tower and called it Kullah.* Its height is i ?o ells, and its breadth 70. And to the terrace roof (of the tower) you go up by a doiil>le passage. Five horses can ride up to the top of (the tower) abreast by a winding passage-way without steps. The tower is built in three stories. It is provided with provisions, and halls, and magazines. Under the place is a cistern for the rain-water, sufficient to supply the garrison of the fortress from year's end to year's end. Inhere is one like it under the Min^urah (Pharos) of Alexandria In the fortress is a well called As S4t<irah. Its depth is no ells, by 6 ells across, the ell being the carpenter's ell. The buckets made use of are wooden casks, the cask being about the size of a water ewer. Two of such casks are attached to a single rope, called a Sarbik, of the thickness of a man's wrist, in such a manner, that when one cask is at the mouth of the well, the other has reached the surface of the water, and zftW versii. At the well's mouili arc two iron arms, witl. lumds and fingers. The fingers seize the edge of the full cask and the hands draw it over, so that the water ]>ours into a tank, and runs thence into the store-cistern. When the water has l)een poured from the cask, the movement is reversed. Wliat sets the casks in motion is a piece of machinery with cords and wheels, whereby the rope with the casks is made to work continually over the mouth of the well, backwards and forwards, to right and then to left. For there are trained mules, who keep the machine in motion, pacing round * One MS. has Kai*ah, castle; Authk means " hilUtop.** biyiiizua by GoOglc SAFAD, OR SAFAT,—SAFFURIYAH, it And when the mule that has gone round hears the rushing of the water and the rattle of the chain, it turns round and goes back towards the starting-place, turning the machine in the oppo- site way by walking in the other direction, till it hears again the rushing of the water and the rattle of the chains ; then it turns back again and goes over its former way, backwards and forwards, ceaseless 1) . All this is one of the wonders of the world to see. If you stand at the mouth of this well and speak a single word, the sound of your voice, wuh the word, comes hack after the lapse ol a Tull minute. For it gcKS down to the surface of the water and then returns, whereby you hear it again exactly as you said it. And if you call out loud, the sound of the cry increases to a roar that is like thunder by reason of the depth of the well and the distance of the water. The two iron hands are exactly similar in their use to real hands, being of the form of a man's hand." (Him., 210.) "Safat," writes Abu-1 Fidl^ "in the Jordan Province, is a town of medium size. It has a very strongly built Castle, which dominates the Lake of Tabariyyah. There are undeiground watercourses, which bring drinking-water up to the castle-gate. Its gardens are below, in the valley going down towards the Lake of Tabariyyah. Its suburbs are built over and cover three hills, and they possess many broad districts. Since the place was con- quered by Al Malik Adh Dh&hir (Baibirs, in 1266) from the Franks, it has been made the central station for the troops who guard all the coast-towns of that district." (A, V., 243.) It is. {)erhaps, worth notiiiji llwa no mtnluji), apparently, occurs of Salad in the Arab geographers previous to the time of the Crusades. SafIra. — " A village near Halab (Aleppo)." (Mar., ii. 36 j and in Yak., v. 21.) As Safiriyyah. — " A village lying near Ar Ramlah.'" (Yak., tii. 12 ; Mar., ii. 4.) Saff. — " A domain at Al Ma'arrah." (Yak., iii. 401 ; Mar., ii. 161.) • S affOriyah (Sepphoris). — " A town and K&rah (district) of the Jordan Province, near Tabariyyah." (Vdk., iii. 402 ; Mar., ii. 161.) biyuizua by Google 526 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. As SafsAf (The Willow^tree). — " A district of the Thughiir (or Frontier Fortresses) of Al Masstssah. It was harried in 339 (950) by Saif ad Daulah." (Yak., iii. 401 ; Mar., ii. 161.) As Safwaniyyah. — ** A place in the neighbourhood of Damascus, lying outside hdh I uma (Si. i liomas's date). It is of the Iklim (district) of Khaulan. (Ydk., iii. 402 ; Mar., ii. 161.) Sahya. — " One of the ikUms (districts) of Baniyas of Syria." (Vik., iii. 438 : Mar., ii. 173.) SahyOn, or SihyOn (i), (Saone). — "A strong fortress," says Ydkdt, on the coast, in the Uims Province. It is not imme- diately on the sea, but on the mountain-side. Its fosse«> are deep gorges with wide bottoms, and the only fosse that has been arti- ficially dug is on the one side. The. depth of this fosse is about 60 ells^ and it ts cut in the live rock. Sahyikn has three walls, two lie outside the suburb, and one is round the castle. It was originally in the hands of the Franks, but was taken from them by Saladin in 584 (1188), from which time it has remained in Muslim hands." (Yfik., iiL 438 ; Mar., ii. 173.) "Hisn SahyOn," says Dimashki, 'Ms an impregnable fortress, built in ancient days. It is said to have been built by Augustus the Great, King of the Romans, who was surnamed Ca:sar. He is not the same Augustus as he who instituted the Era. This fortress is on the summit of a hill, and very difficult of access. It has five walU, ;ind there is a harbour on the sea-coast near to it on a point of kind jutting out like a peninsula into the sea." (Dim., 208.) *' SahyOn," writes Abu-1 Fida, " is in the Kinnasrin Pro\'ince. Hie town of Sahyiin possesses a fine castle, so strong that it cannot be taken by assault. It is one of the most celebrated of the fortresses of Syria. The water-supply is abundant, being stored from the rain-&ll. It stands on the solid rock, and close to it is a WSdi in which are the salsuginous shrubs called Hamd^ such as you find nowhere else in these parts. The castle stands at the foot of the mountain, and to the west thereof. You may see it firom Al L&dhikiyyah, it lying about a march distant east and somewhat south thereof." ( A. F. , 257.) biyiiizua by Google SAHYUN^SAKBA 5*7 The Castle of SahyQn was visited by Ibn Batutah in 1355. He speaks of it as a place noted for its fine rivers and trees. The castle is magnificent, he adds. (I. B., i 166.) SahyCn (3), Sign. — See under "Jerusalem/' p. a 12. SaidA (i). — " In the Haurftn Province is a place called Saidft." (Yik., iii. 441.) SaidA (a), SioON.<^See abovei p. 346. SailOn (Shiloh of Judges xxi. 19). — ''A village of Nftbulus, where it is said was the Masjid as Sukainah (the Tabernacle), and the Stone of the Table (//ajar al Maidah\ but the truth is that the Table descended in the Church of Sihyfin (Sion). They relaicd to me, 'All of Herat, that the Prophet Ya'kflb (Jacob) — on him peace I — ^used to dwell in Sailun, and tliat Yilsuf (Joseph) i»et out Iroui ilicnce with his brethren. The pit into which ihey threw johej)h lies between Sinjil and Nabuhis (see p. 465), and to the right of the road. This is the true account" (A H., Oxf. MS., folio 34 verso^ copied in Yak., iii. 220 ; Mar., ii. 80.) Sa'!r (S£1R). — " This, in the Pentateuch, is the name for the mountains in the Filastin Province. We have mentioned it above under FAran (Paran, see p. 440). Si'ir an Nasirah (Seir of Nazareth) lies between ' Akkah and 1 abariyyah. It is written in the Taurah (or Books of Moses) : ' He (Allah) came from Stn& (Sinai) and met (Moses) on Tfir Sind, and He glorified Himself on S&lr, foretelling the comingof 'ts& (Jesus) ibn Maryam — peace be upon Him t^out of An N^imh (Nazareth) ; and He manifested Himself in Jabal Fftrdn.' By this last is meant the mountains of the Hijjiz, in allusion to the coming of the Prophet Muhammad. And all this is to be found in Juz (part) x. of As Safr (volume) v. of the Tauriyah (Pentateuch), but .Allah alone knows best the truth." (\.ik., 111. II ; Mar., ii. 3.) The quotation is a paraphrase of Deuteronomy xxxiii. 2. As SajCr. — " The name of a river at Manbij." (Yak., iii. 8; Mar., ii. 2.) S.\K.\T?ivv.\H. — **A town lying i march from Ar Kamlah, and 2 marches from Tulail." (Muk., 192.) Sakba. — A village of the Gbautah of Damascus." (Yik., iii 100; Mar., ii. 37.) 5*8 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Sakf.- '' Tlic name of a place in Syria; it is said to be near Al Madja' (the camping place) of the Diyar Kil4b, where there are isolated hills." (Yak., iiL 103 ; Mar., ii. 38.) As Sak!. — ** A place lying outside Damascus." (Yak^ iii. 105 ; Mar., iL 39.) SakkA. — One of the villages of the Ghautah, lying 4 miles from Damascus." (Ydk, iiL 105, 410 ; Mar., ii. 39, 164.) Sa'l. — '*A weU-known mountain in Syria." (Mar., ii. 157.) Not mentioned by Y&kAt SALW*Afortin W&dt MQs& (Petra?) in the Jerusalem Dis- trict" (Ydk., ill 117 ; Mar., ii. 44.) SalaghOs. — "A fortress of the frontier lands of the Thiighur, lyinc^ beyond Tarsus. It is said to be the name of a low 11. I he Kliaiifal Mamiin made a.a expedition against it," (Yak., iii. 119; Mar., ii. 44.) Salam. - *'A place in the Greek country near Sumaisat.'' (Y^k., iii. 112 ; Mar., ii. 42.) Saiamiwah (Sala.minias). — "A town," says Ya'kubi, in 891, '* in the Syrian Desert. It was built by 'Abd 'Allah the Abbaside. He conducted thither a stream of water, and dug wells in the land, whereby the saffron grows plentifully here. It is colonized by his desc endants." (Yb., iii.) "Salamiyyah in the Hims Province is a town in which the Hdshimites (Abbasides) number the greater part of the population. It lies on the desett border and is very fertile.*' (I&, 61, copied by A. F., 265.) " Salamiyyah," reports Idrisi, " on the border of the desert is a fort like a town, small but populous." (Id., 26.) " Sahmiyyah is a small town lying in the neighbourhood of the desert. It is of the Hamdh District, and it lies 2 days distant from linns, to the province of which it used to be reckoned." (Yak., iii. 123 ; Mar., ii. 46.) Dimashki (Dim., 207), and Abu-1 Fida (A. F., 265), add nothing to the above, except that the former deserihcs tlie watercourse of 'Abd 'Allah the Abbaside as runnini; all the way from Salamiyyah to Hims. Salamiyyah to Hims (Muk.) is i march, or (Id.) 24 miles; to Al iCastal (Muk.), 2 marches, or (Id., I. K.) 30 miles. biyiiizca by Google SALKHAD, OR SARKHAD,^AS SALT, Salkhad, or Sarkhai) (Salchah of Deut. Hi. lo). — " Sal- khad is a town in the Hauran Province. There are various traditions connected with this place relating to Moses and Aaron." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 25, verso,) " Sarkhad," says Yakut, "is a strong castle belonging to the Hauiin District and Government It lies in the midst of a fine district." (Y4k., iil j8o; Mar., ii. 152.) "The Kala'ah (or Castle of Sarkhad)," says Dimasbki, *4ies near the Jabal Bant Hillil, which are also called Jabal Ar Rayydn (the * mountains sated with water'), by reason of the great quantity of water that comes down from thence.*' (Dim., 20a) "Sarkhad,"writ^ Abu4 Fidd, "is a small town with a high castle. There are numerous vineyards, but there is no water here except what is gathered in the cisterns and pools among the rains. It forms j)art uf the Haur in District, which is in the Damascus rrovincc. Ibn Sa'id states ii to be the chief town of the tribe of the Bani Hillil. Ikvund its lands, soiitli and east, lies the desert. Eastward from it goes the road to Irak, railed Ar Rasif (the Causeway), and those who have travelled it say you may go from Sarkhad to JJaghdad by it in about 10 days. Between Sarkhad and the town of Zur', one of the chief towns of the Haur&n, is about a day's journey." (A. F., 259.) As Salihivvah.— A large village with markets and a mosque lying on the slope of Jabal KasiyQn, which overhangs Damascus. Most of the inhabitants are immigrants from the neighbourhood of Jerusalem.'' {YSk,, iii. 363; Mar., iL 144.) (See above^ p. 482.) As Salt. — " A town in the Jordan Province. It is a small town with a castle^ lying among the hills to the east of the Ghaur, a day's march south of 'AjlOn. It lies opposite Jericho^ and the castle holds the Ghaur tmder dominion. From under the castle of As Salt there gushes out a copious spring, whose waters flow through the town. 'I"he place possesses many garden^, .ind the pomegranalcs exported from thcuee are celebrated in all countries. The city is prosperous, and very populous." (A. F., 245.) " The mountains called Jabal as Salt he south-east of the Jabal 'Auf. The population of these parts having rebelled, Al Malik al 34 biyiiizua by GoOglc 530 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Mu'adhdham buiit, in order to hold them in check, the fortress of As Salt. It lies 2 days' march from 'AjlCIn, and the hke from Karak." (A. R, 228.) SALi^K. — "A town of Syria." (VSk., iii. 125 ; Mar., it 47.) Sal<>kiyyah (Seleucia Pieria) "A fortress on the ooast near AntSkiyyah. It was rebuilt by the Khalif a3 Walld'' (Bfl., 148.) ** There are,** writes Mas'iidi, in 943^ *'some wonderfiil ruins on the sea-coast near Antioch, which are worthy of notice even at the present day. These remains go by the name of Saltkkiyyah." (Mas,, ii 199 ; mentioned also by Yak., iii. 126 ; Mar., ii. 47.) Sam. — ''A village of the Ghaiitah of Damascus. It Hes in the Iklim (District) of Khauian." (Yak., iii. 14 ; Mar., ii. 4.) SAM.^KfN. — "A village of the Hauran in the Damascus Pro- vince." (Ydk., iii. 140: Mar., ii. 51.) SamalC. — "A fortress and town of the Syrian Thu^hur (or I rontier Fortresses), not far from Tarsus and Al Massissah. It was taken after a siege by the Khalif ar Rashid in 163 (780), and the inhabitants were earned off to Baghdad, and settled near the (^ate of Ash ShammSsi) sah, at a place which they renamed SamdlQ." (BiL, 170 ; Yak., iii. 416; Mar., it 167.) As SamAwah.^** This is the name of the Great Desert extend- ing between KAfah and Syria. It is all a flat country, with few stones in it Water is found at certain phces in this desert" (YSk., iii.' 131 ; Mar., ii. 49.} As SammAn. — " The name of a place in the confines of Syria, on the outskirts of the Balki Province.*' (Y&k., iii. 417 ; Mar., ii. 167.) SAMNfN.— "A town of the 'Jluighur (or Frontier Provinces) towards the titcek. country." (Yak., iii. 146 ; .Mar. ii. 53.) San'a. — "A village of the Ghautah, at the gates of Damascus, before reaching Al Mizzah. It lies opposite Masjid KhatQn. Its houses are now (1225) in ruins, and the land has become helds and i^ardens." (Yak., iii. 426 ; Mar., ii. 168.) Sanajivah.- " A village of 'Askalan (Ascalon), of the district of Ar Ramlah." (Yak., iii. 154; Mar., ii. 55.) As SanamAn, or As Sanahain (The Two Idols). — "A town biyiiizua by Google SANJAH.—SARJAH. 53< in the Hauran, a marches from Damascus." (Yik., iii. 429; Mar., ii. 169.) Ibn Batfltah speaks of it as "a large village." (I. B., i. 254.) Sanjah. — *'A town lying not far distant from Balis. It is a small town, with a bridge near it, called Kantarah Sanjah, than which there is in all Islam no finer. It is one of the wonders of the time." (Is., 62 ; L H., 120.) "Sanjah," reports Idrisi, "is a small town near Manbij. Near it is a bridge built of dressed stone, with well set arches of beauti- ful workmanship. It is called Kantarah Sanjah, and is one of the wonders of the world in the matter of bridges ; and one of the greatest, seeing that it crosses the whole width of the Euphrates. This bridge is called also Jisr Manbij." (Id., 27.) As Sann.abr.\h.— " A place in the Jordan Province lying over a;4ainst 'Akahah (the Pass of) Afik, and 3 miles from Tabariy- yah. The Khalif Muawiyuh used to winter there." (Yak., iii. 419 ; Mar., ii. j6S.) Sarafah. — *' A village of the Maah l)i.sU ict, in the Balka Province. They say there is to be iiecn here tlie lonih of Joshua the son of Nun." (Y'dk., iii. 383 ; Mar., ii. 154, Taken from *Aii of Herat, A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 27.) Sarafand, or Sarafandah (Sarepta of Luke iv. 26; and the Zarephath of i Kings xvii. 9). — **A village, whence to 'Adliin is 20 miles, and to Saida (Sidon), to miles." (Id., 12.) Sarafandah," says Vakdt, " is a village belonging to SOr (Tyre) on the coast of Syria." ^ (Y4k., iii. 382 ; Mar., ii. 153.) Sargh. — "A place on the Syrian Pilgrim Road between Al Mughlthah and TabaV." (Yik., iii. 77 ; Mar., ii. 26.) Sarh. — "A place in Syria, lying near Busr&V (Y4k., iii 71 ; Mar., ii. 23.) SarIs. — " A village of the district round Jerusalem. It lies half-way between Jerusalem and Ar Ramlah, and 4 hours from either place." (Mar. in Yak., v. 21.) Sarjah (i). — "A place near Sumaisat on the Euphrates." (Yak., iii. 70 ; Mar., ii. 23.) Sarjah (2). — '*Sarjah is also a village of Halab; it is called Sarjah of Bani 'Ulaim.*' {Idem.) 34—2 I 53a PALESTWE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Sarmad. — "A district in the Halab Province. ^\ak., iu. 82 ; Mar., ii. 27.) SarmIn. — ^Visiied by Na ir 1 Khusrau in 1047, who speaks of it as a town without walls. (X. Kh., 3.) *' Sarmin," says Yak^t, " is a celebrated, though small town, of the Halab District. Its people to-day (thirteenth century) are all Ismailians. Al Maidani, in his Book of Proverbs, says that Sarmin is the city of S^dum (Sodom), of whose KM! a proverb is made." (Y&k., iii. S3 ; Mar., ii. 37. See above, p. 291.) " Sarmtn,'** says Abu-1 Fidd, " in the Aleppo Province is a town with many olive and other trees. There is no water here except what is gathered from the rains tn cisterns. It has broad lands and dependencies, and the soil is very fertile. There is a J&mi* Mosque, and the town has no walls. Sarmtn lies about a da/s march south of Halab^ half-way between this last and Ma'arrah." (A. F., 265.) Sarmin was visucci by Ibn Batutah in 1355 ; he speaks of the abundance of trees that grow there, mostly olives. '* It is a hne, small town," he says, " where soa|)-niaking is much practised The Brick Soa[) {yls Sal^iin a I Ajurri) is exported from hence to Damascus, and even to Cairo ; also their Perfumed Soap for washing the hands : this they make coloured, red and yellow. In Sarmin they also make cotton stuffs. The people here have a dislike to saying the number ' ten j' they say * nine and one ' always, instead of 'ten.' There is a fine Mosque in Sarmin with nine domes." (I. B., i. 145.) SAr6niyyah. — A pass i^Akabah) near Tabariyyah y you go up it to reach At TOr (Tabor)." (Y&k., iu. 9 ; Mar., ii. 3.) SAsAK^yN.— '*A village of Hamfth.'' (Y&k., iil ir; Mar., 3) As Sath.— "The name of one of the Ikllm (Districts) of Bait Lihyd, in the Damascus Province. Some say it lies between Al Kuswah and Ghabaghib, and another authority places it oui:>jtie the Bab Tiima of Damascus." (Yik., iii. ()o ; Mar., ii. 31.) Satka. — "A v:ll:i^c of 1 )aniascu.s, and uiie ol the pleasantest places of the Gliautah." (Yak., iii. 90; Mar., ii. 31.) As Sawad (The Black. Countrv). — "A district in the Jordan biyiiizua by Google . AS SAlVAyiIt,—SHAIZAE. 533 Province. Its population is half Arab, half Greek." (Yb., 115, written in a.d. 891.) ** As Sawid," says Yak(it, "lies near the BaM, it is so called on account of the blackness of the stones here. It is also called Saru as Sawad." (Yak., iii. 86, 174 ; Mar., ii, 29, 62.) As Saw A I ik.—" A celebrated river of the Manbij District in Syria." (Vak., iii. 173; Mar., ii. 62.) Ash Shah'a.^ — "A village of JXimascus in the Iklim (or Dis- trict) of Hait al Abdr." (Yak., iii. 254 ; Mar., ii. 92.) Shabik. — " One of the camping-places of the Kudi'ah tribe, in Syria." (Yak., iii. 226 ; Mar., ii. 83.) Ash ShAghOr. — "A quarter outside the Mb as Saghir of Damascus, and to the south thereof. It lies some way outside the city." (Y^Uu, iii. 336 ; Mar., ii. 86. See above, pi 231.) Shahbah. — ** A village of the Haurln." (Yak., iii. 339 ; Mar., ii 136.) ShahshabC. — ^*'One of the villages of Aflmiyyah. The tomb of Iskandar (Alexander the Great) is here, as some say; but, according to others, his bowels only are buried here, while his body lies at the Min&r (Pharos) at Alexandria. The more general opinion, however, is that he died at Babil (Babylon) in 'Ir^." (Yak,, iii. 264 ; Mar., 11. 97.) Shaihan. — "The name of the mountain that overlooks all the mountains around Al Kuds (Jerusalem). It is the one which Moses — peace be on hnn ! — ascended, and looked thence towards the Holy City, but despised the same. And he cried, ' I^ord, is this Thy holy place ?' And it was answered to him, ' Yea, and verily thou shalt never enter it.' Moses died — peace be upon him ! — and he never did enter Jerusalem." (Yiik., iii. 346 ; Mar., ii. 138.) The Biblical Neba (See above, pp. 470, 471, 495.) Shaitar. — ** A place in Syria." (Y&k., iii. 356 ; Mar., ii. 141.) Shaizar (Larissa). — ''A small town in the Hims Province, having plenty of water, trees, fruits, and fields. It is a very pleasant place," (Is., 61; I. H., 116; mentioned by Yb., III.) Shaizar," says YikAt, "is the name of a castle with its 534 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLE/iS. district, lying near Al Ma'arrah. Between it and Haniah is a day's journey. Under the castle runs the Orontes Kiver, over which is a bridge, crossing in the middle of the town. It is a very ancient city, and was first conquered by Abu Ubaidah, by capitulation, after HamlUi had fallen, In the year 17 (638)." (Y^k., iii. 355; Mar., iL T4a) " Shaizar," says Dimashki, is a fortified town, but one that has been ravaged by the plague. It is well watered, and the people drink from the Nahr 'Ast (Orontes). Shaizar has a castle called *Urf ad Dik (The Cock's Comb), which is protected on three of its sides by the river 'Asi, and it is visible from a great distance off." (Dim., 205.) "Shaizar," writes Abu-1 Fida, " m the Hims Province possesses a strong fort. To the north of it runs the 'Asi, aiul not far from here the river falls over a dyke, above 10 ells high, called M Hantalah. The town has trees and gardens and many fruits— particularly pomegranates. There is a bridge here over the river Maklub (Orontes). Shaizar lies 9 miles from Hamah, 33 miles from Hims, and 36 from Antakiyyah. It has walls of sun-dried bricks, and three gates, and the river 'Asi runs outside the wall and to the north of the town." (A. F., 263.) Shaizar to Ham&h (Muk.), i march ; to Kafar T^b (Muk X I march. Ash Shajarah (The Tree). — ** A village where is buried As Siddtk, the son of the Prophet S&lih.'' (A. H., Oxf. MS., foUo 29 versa,) "Ash Shajarah,' says Y^dt, "is a village of the Filastin Province. Besides the tomb of Siddik, there are here, in a cave, as they report, the hudies of eighty marly rs ; but God knows l)est the truth." (Yak., iii. 260 ; Mar., ii. 96.) Sharif ArnC'n (Bklfort of the Crusaders). — "A very stroni,' castle on the summit of a mountain near Baniyas. in the Damiscus lerritory, lying between Damascus and the sea-coa^t. Arnun is a man's name, either a Frank or a dreek." iU* 309; Mar., ii. 119.) The word *'Shakif,"in Synac, means "rock." , *'Shaklf Amdn," writes Dimashki, "is an impregnable fortress Digitized by Cuv ^^it. I SHAKIF DARKVSH.^HAMSUAT, 535 which was taken by Sultan Baibars from the Franks. It has broad lands, and the river Litany (Utah) flows at the foot of the hill on which it stands." (Dim., 211,) Shakif Am(hi Ues between Damascus and the sea-ooost, not £ur from B&niyds. ArnOn is a man's name. It is a very strong fortress, and it lies to the nonh of Shakif Ttr(in. Part of the fortress consists of caverns hewn in the rock, and part of it is built up of masonry.'' (A. F., 245.) SHAKtF DarkCsh.— " A castle near Halab (Aleppo), lying to the south of the Harim District." (Yak., iii. 309 ; Mar., ii. 120.), SHAKiF DuhhIn. — ''A small castle nc:ir AiUiuch. l)ubl)in is the name uf a domain, like a suburb, belonging thereto. ' (Vak. iii. 310 : Mar., ii. 120,) SnAKiK J irOn (Cavka Tvrum of thk Crusadkrs). — *'A strong lurtrcss near Tyre." (Ynk., iii. 309 ; Mar., li. 120.) ** Shakit 1 iriin, says Diraashki, " is a strongly fortified place standing on a high hill. There are lands round it, and it is com- manded by a Naib (Governor). No Manjanik (Mangonel) can make any impression on its walls." (Dim., 211.) "It stands," says Abu-1 Fida, " about a day's journey north of Safad." (A. F., 245.) Ash Shahmasivyak.— *' The name of a quarter of Damascus." (Y4k., iii. 318; Mar., il r24.) ShamsIn.— A place on the road between Hims and Kird, and z march distant from either." (Muk., 190.) ShamshAt.— " A town on the Euphrates. It has a well fortified casde. The place stands on the east of the Lukk&m Mountains, and overlooks the Euphrates. All round it are many hills, on the sides of which grow alnioiids, ^lajses, and other varieties of winter and suniiner truit.s. All these belong lo the public, and not to any i»ersua in particular. ' (Id., 26.) "bhamshai," says YdkGt in 1225, *Mies on the eastern bank of the Euphrates, and in the Greek territory. It is now in ruins." (Vak., iii. 319; Mar., ii. 125.) Shamshat to Sumaisat (Is., I. H.), 2 marches ; to Hisn Mansur (Is., I. H.), I day (Id), 21 miles; to Malatyah (Id.), 51 miles ; to Zabatrah (Id.), 15 miles ; to Manbij (Id.), 2 or 3 days. Ash ShamOs.— One of the villages of Halab (Aleppo). It Digitizca by Gdo^Ic 536 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. FtaTids in the dependencies of Al Huss." (Ys^k., iii. 324 ; Mar., ii. 127.) Shanar. — " A valley of Syria. It is mentioned in the Histories of the first Conquest'* (Mar., ii. 128.) Shanj. — "A place on the coast, lying between 'Arkah and Antarsiis." (Id, 20.) Sharaf al Ba'al. — **A place in Syria. It is said to be a mountain on the Hajj Road." {YSk., iil 378 ; Mar., ii. 103.) Sharm al Bait (The Gulp of the House). — This hay is reached from Al Masdaf (on the Red Sea). It is a harbour, but there is no water to be found here.** (Id., 2.) Sharm al BtR. — Likewise a harbour (on the Red Sea) where there is.no water." (Id., 2.) Ash Shaubak (Crac df: Momki;ai. of the Crusades). — *'A fortified castle on the Syrian borders near Al Karak, and between 'Amman and Ailah on the Red Sea. \ akdur, who liad become king of Al Fars (Al Franj (?), the Franksj, went in the year 509 (11 15) through the Hilad Rabi', which is Ash Sharah, and the Halkd and Al Jibal and Wadi Mflsa (Petrn). and he camped at the ancient fortress, then in ruins, of Ash Shaubak, near Wkdt Musa. '1 his castle he rebuilt, and garrisoned it with men at arms. By the building of this fortress travellers from Egypt up to Syria by the desert road were secured from the ^^ild Arabs.'' (Yftk.» iii. 332 ; Mar., ii; 132.) In point of fact, Shaubak was built, in 1115, by King Baldwin 1. ** Ash Shaubak,'' says Abu-I Fidft, "lies in the Shailh Province. It is a small town with many gardens. Most of its inhabitants are Christians. It lies to the east of the Ghaur (south of the Dead Sea), and on the frontier of Syria coming from the Hijj^ At the foot of the castle hill are two springs, one to the right and one to the left, like the two eyes on a face. Their waters run through the town and irrit^atc the g in'a ns, which are in a \alU v to the west of the town. The fruits grown here are the apricot and others, which are most excellent in flavour, and are exported even to Egypt. The castle is built of white stone, and crowns a high hill which is also white, and overlooks the Ghaur (south of the Dead Sea) from the east side." (A. F., 247.) k Digitized by Cu SHIKRA.—AS SIFLIYYUN, 537 Shikr^L — " A village of Hnrran, in Syria." (Mar., ii. 1 18.) ShinAn.— **The name of a valley in Syria." (Vak., iii. 325 ; Mar., iL 128.) Skubaith. — " A mountain near Halab (Aleppo). It is of great length. On its summit is a tableland, where there are three villages. It is counted as belonging to the district of Al Ahass. Shubaith is a Kftrah (District) of Halab, and they bring into Halab from this mountain blacJc rocks, of which they make mill- stones." (Ydk., iii. 257 ; Mar., ii. 94.) Ash Shughr (Seleucobelos) and Bakas. — "These are two castles, standing opposite cat h other, on two hill summits, with the valley, like a fosse, in between them. • They are situated on the 'Asi ^River Orontes), and lie l)et\vcen Antakiyyah and Halab, and they belong to the Sultan of the latter city. At the foot of the hill of Bakas a stream gushes out." (Yak., i. 704; iii. 303; Mar., i. 167 ; ii. 1 15.) Ash Shughr and Bakis/'says Abu-l Fida, " lie in the Kinnasrin Province. They are two strong forts on heights, and between the two is the distance of an arrow-flight. Below them runs a stream. They have gardens and many fruit-trees. There is also a Friday Mosque. Many villages belong to them, and they lie half-way between Antikiyyah and A^miyyah. About a hoise gallop east of these forts is the celebrated bridge of Kashfahdn crossing the river (Orontes). There is held here a market, where people assemble each week. These forts lie north-east of SahyOn (Saone), and south of Antioch, and are divided from both by the moun- tains." (A. F., 261.) The fortresses of Ash Shughr and Bak^s were visited l)y Ibri Baiutah in 1355, who speaks of the place as one fortress, built on a great height. (1. B., i. 165.) SibistJn. — "A town in the Province of Filastin. Here are buried Yahya ibn Zakariyyah (John the Baptist) and his mother, and the Prophet Al Yasi' (Klisha). The latter, it is also said, is is not buried here, but elsewhere." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 33 versa.) As Si plivyOn. —"A village of Damascus." (YaL, iiL 98 ; 14ar., •i. 36.) Digitized by Google 538 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, SViR (Seir)w — A village in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem. This name, or S&'h" (Seir), is mentioned in the Pentateuch." (Yak., iii. 441 ; Mar., iL 175.) See p. 537. SijjiLtN.->*< A village of 'AskaUUi in Filastin.*' (YIUc., iii. 46 ; Mar., ii. 14.) SikiluyAh. — '* Said to be a place in Syria." (Mar., ii. .163.} SiNjiL (Saint-Gxlles of the Crusades). — A small town of the Province of Filastin. Near it is the pit of Yiisuf as SadSk (Joseph) — peace be on him !" (Vak., iii. 162 ; Man, ii. 58.) SiNNAR. — "A place in Diyar ivaib, in the lands of S>Tia." (Vak., iii. 419; Mar., ii. 168.) SiRFAM'AKAR. — '* A castle in Armenia, standing in a fruitful valley in the Armenian rountr}'. It is built on rot k, and on some ot its sides it needs no wall by reason of the rock taking the place thereof. It lies near the south bank of the Jaihan (Pyramus). This castle holds the road to the Pass (l)arband)of A\ Marra, and stands about four miles east of the hill of Tall Hamdun. 'i'be Pass of Al Mani begins about a day's march from it to the east, and in the country between this and Sarfandak^ there grow Snobur (pine) trees, such as you find nowhere else for girth and height Sarfandak^ lies south-east of 'Ain Zarbah, and about a march from it** (A. F., 257.) SirrIn,— " A place in Syria." (Vak., iii. 387 ; Mar., ii. 155.) Sfs. — " A great city of Armenia," writes Abu-1 Fid^ " with a castle and triple walls, islanding on a high liill. It has gardens and a small river. It is the capital of the kingdom of ( Little) Armenia at the present day (1321). Ibn Laiin (I.eo II.. the Great), one of the kings of (Little) Armenia, rel)uilt it, and made it his plat e of residence. It was of old liie eliief lou n of the northern Fortresses (of the Muslims). From Hisn Sisiyah (which is the same as Sis), to 'Ain Zarbah is 24 miles, and to Al Massissah is 24 miles. Sis was rebuilt by one of the servants of the Khalif ArRashld." (A F., 257.) ^'^Mriih" says Bil&dhuri, "is the city of TaU'Ain Zarbah. ^Ims rebuilt in the Khalif Mutawakkil's time, and was afterwards ^ by the Greeks.'* (BiL, 170.) 'bA. — " A village of Jerusalem." (YUt, iii. 431 ; Mar., ii 170,) Digitized by Cuv ^^i AS SUBAIRAH.^UNNUHAR, As SuBAiRAH. — "A place in Syria." (Vik., iii. 368 ; Mar.^ ii. 146.) SUDAR* — "A village of Jerusalem.'' (Ydk., iii. 375; Mar., iL »5o.) SuKHNAH (The Hot Si>kim,). — "A small lo.vn in tlie Syrian Desert, lying between Tadniur (ralmyra) and Urd and Arak. Beside the spring are palm-uees. It is on the road of one going to Damascus from Ar Rakkah, and you come to it before reaching Arak."' (Yak., iii. 52 ; Mar., ii. t6.) " .\s Sukhnah," says Ibn BatOtah, *' lies between Ar Rahbah Malik ibn Tauk, and Tadraur. It is a pretty town. Most of its inhabitants are infidel Christians. It is named As Sukhnab (the Hot) from the heat of its waters. There are here bath-houses for men and for women to bathe in. They draw the water and set it at night on the roofs of the houses to cooL" (I. B., iv. 315) SuLAM. — A large bay of the sea. Thence to J{iniyyah is to milesy and to MahQ/ jubail and the mouth of the Nahr Ibrahim is 3 miles." (Id., 17.) SuMAiSAT (Samosata). — *' A Small city on the Euphrates^ with lands watered by irrigation, and by the rains. There is a fortress here. The dnnkinL;-\valcr i:i trom the Euplirales. ' (Is., 62; I. H., 120; copied by A. F., 267.) "The Kala'ah Sumaisat is also called the Kala'ah at Tin (the Fort of Clay)." (Ma>., 1. 215.) " Sumaisat," says \ " is a town on tlic west bank of the Euphrates. It has a castle. In one quarter of Sumaisat Armenians dwell." (Yak., iii. 151 ; Mar. ii. 54.) *' Sumaisat," says Abu-1 Fida, " on the borders of Syria, and on the Euphrates, lies west of Kala'at Ar ROm, and north of Hisn MansOr, but not far from either." (A. F., 267.) Sumaisat to Manbij (Is., I. H.), 2 days; to ShamshSt (I&» I. H.), 2 marches. SunnuhAr "A village of the Jabal Sim'^ District, to the west of Halab (Aleppo). There are here ancient remains, show^ ing its former greatness. But all is now ruin." (Y&k., iii. 164 ; Mar., ii. 58.) Written in 1225. Digitizca by Gdo^Ic PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, SURATAH.--*' A village of Jabal Nibulus." (Mar., ii. 25 ; and in YSk., V. 21.) As SuRAYYAH. — "A Village of the Syrian Ghaur." (Yak., in. S9; IiCar., ii. 30.) SOriwah. — '*A place hing between Khun&sirah and Sala- iniyyah. The common people call it Suwiyyah." (Y&k., iii. 187 ; Mar., ii. 67.) SOriyyah. — "This is the (Greek) name of the whole of As Sham (Syria), at the time of the Conquest." (Mar., ii. 67.) SuRKH. — **A mountain in Syria. ' (Yik., iii. 380; Mar., ii. 152.) SOsiVAH. — "A Kurah (District) of the Jordan Province." (Yak., iii. 193 ; Mar., ii. 68.) This place, the name of which corresponds with Susitha of the Jerusalem Talmud, is probably the ancient Hippos. It lies a short distance south of Fik, to the east of the Sea of (lalilee. As SuwAioA.— **A village of the Haur&n Province." (YUc, iii. 197 ; Mar., ii. 70.) HisN as Suwaidivvah (Port St. Simon, or Le Soudin of THE Crusades). — " This fortress lies on the sea and is the Port of Antioch, which last is situated 12 miles from the sea. At As Suwaidiyyah the river (Orontes) of Antioch fjadls into the sea ; it is called also Al *Asi." (Id, 23.) As Suwaidiyyah is also men- tioned by Dimashki and Abu-l Fida (Dim., 206, and A. F., 233.) See also above, }). 4 u, under l)air Sim'an. Hisn as Suwaiuiwah to Hisii al Harbadah (Id.) is 15 miles ^ and to Jabal Ras al Khinzir (Id.) is 20 miles. As SuYAi A. — " The name of a spring in Syria." (Yak., iii. 206 ; Mar., ii. 75.) Ta'asir. — " A place lying 2 stages from Baisan, and the like dis- tance from Nabulus." (Muk., 191.). This has been suggested as the possible site of Tirzah, once the capital of Israel (Josh. xii. 24). TAdhif. — "A place belonging to Halab (Aleppo), and near Bttz&*ah. It lies 4 leagues from Halab." (Yik., i. 81 1 ; Mar., 1. 194.) Tadmur (Palmyra) — "An ancient city, with wonderfril build- ings therein. It is said of the greater number of the marvellous Digitized by Ci. TADMUR, S4t femains seen here that they were constracted by the Prophet Solomon, the son of David." (Yb., 1 1 1.) "Tadmur," says Mukaddasi, belongs to the Province of Him& It is after the likeness of a throne among the cities of Solomon, the son of David Its citadel, which stands near the desert, is spacious and strong." (Muk., 156.) "Tadmur," writes Yikiit, '*is a celebrated city in the Syrian Desert. It lies 5 days from Halab, and near to Hims. There are wonderful buildings here erected on pillars. The i>eople say they were built by the Jinns at the order of Solomon the son of David. At the present day (1225) the people there live in a castle surrounded by a stone wall. It has a double gate of stone» and there are temples, of which tliree remain standing to the present day. There is a river vshich waters the palm-trees and the gardens. The place is called after Tadmur, daughter of Hassan, sixth in descent from Noah. Some of the people of Tadmur say the buildings were erected as long a time before, as we now live after, the days of Solomon ; but that when people wondered at buildings and knew not who erected them, they always attributed them to Solomon and the Jinns, and so in this case. *' It is related by Ismail ibn Muhammad al Kaari that he waa present with Marw&n II., the last Khalif of the Omayyad dynasty, when he destroyed the walls of Tadmur, for the people had rebelled against him, so he slew them and trampled them down, and overthrew their city wall On this occasion they came on a mighty trench, and discovered there a stone, and below it was a plastered chamber as fresh a.s though the hand of the builder had only just left it. In it was a bier, upon which lay the body of a woman lying on her back, and over her were laid seventy cloaks, and behold she had tresses of long hair with rings attached thereto. The narrator reports that he measured her foot, and it was an ell long exactly. And on one of her tresses was a plate of gold, on which was written : In the name of AUahumma^ I am Tadmur, daughier 0/ HassAn. May God lead to abasement uim who enters this my cell I Then Marwin ordered the place to be dosed again, and it was so done, and nothing was taken away of what was there found. Digitized by Google 542 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. ** Ai 1 acimur is a statue — among many — of two female slaves, on which a poem was written l)y the poet Aus ibn Tha lahah. Tadmurwas first taken and capitulated to Khalid ibn al Walid on his road up from 'Mk to Syria." (V4k., i. 828 ; Mar., i. 200.) Taimar.— "The name of a village in Syria, on the border towards the Hijjaz." (Y&k., i. 908 ; Mar., i 222.) Tais. — " The name of a mountain in Syria, in which there are many fortresses." (Y4k., i. 907 ; Mar., i. 222.) TakhAwah. — ''A village of D&riim, in the neighbourhood of Ghazzah (Gaza).'* (Ydk.» i 827 ; Mar.,i. 199.) TakO'. — *' A village of Jerusalem, proverbially celebrated for its honey." (Yak., i. 860; Mar., i. 208.) Tat^fItA. — "A village of the Sanfr District, in the Damascus Province." (Yak., i. 868 ; Mar., i. 212.) TaluvathA. — "A village of the GiiauLaii of Damascus." (Yak., i. 868 ; Mar., i. 212.) Taij- (Dfvv).* — "The name of a village of Ghaz/ah (Gaza) in the Filastin Province." (Yak., iii. 543 ; Mar., ii. 208.) Tall A'ran (The Hii l of A'ran).— " A large village, with a mosque, near Halab. A kind of grape comes from here, which is round and red in colour. This village has many gardens, vineyards, and fields." (Y4k., i. 863 ; Mar., i. 209.) Tall Bashir (Turbessel t of the Crusades). — "A fortified castle,'* says Y&kflt, with a broad district, lying 2 days north of Halab (Aleppo). The people are Armenian Christians. The place has markets, and a suburb, and is very populous.'* (Yik., i. 864 ; Mar., i. 210.) Tall BIbhir is a fortress lying 2 days' march from Aleppo. There are springs and gardens here. The place is celebrated for its plums, called /jjtiSy which are unrivalled. It is impossible to transport them, even as far as Halab, for with the juurney ihey turn to water." (A. F., 232.) * This is not the word oommooly written Tell, meaning //i// (as in ihe following articles), being from a difTerent root, and written with the hard, aspirated 7. (See Indtx, s.v. 7^?//.) t According to Rey, CoionUs J'rangmSf ^ 322. See also above^ under DarbasAk^ p. 436. Digitized by Cuv (^.1^. TALL HABASH^-TALL AL KIKAN, 543 Tall H abash (The Abyssinian's Hill). — village of Halah." (Mar., i. 211.) Tall HamdOn.— The castle of Tall Harnddn in (Little) Armenia, is strongly fortified, and has well-built walls. It crowns a high hiU, and there are suburbs and gardens. A stream runs by it, and its lands are veiy fertile. Provisions here are plentiful and cheap. The Muslims have dismantled the fortress, and it is now in rains. It lies about a march distant to the south of the river JaihAn (r> ramus). Between Tall HamdOn and Sts there are 2 days* march. To the east of Tall Hamddn is the fort of HamQs, which can ho seen from Tall Hamdiin," (A. F., 251.) Tali. Hamid. — "A fortress of the Thunhur, or Frontier For- tresses, of Al Massissah. (Vak., i. 866 ; Mar., i. 211.) T.ML Harak. — "One of the fortresses lying to the west of Halal) ( Aleppo). ' (Yak., i. 872 : Mar., i. 213.) Tall Harhan. — "A village of Halab lying towards Mesopo- tamia." (Yak., i. 866 ; Mar., i. 211.) Tall H(m. — "A fortress of the Masstssah frontier." (Vik., i 867 ; Mar., i. 211.) Tall Jazar. — "A fortress of the FiUstin Province." (Yak., i. 866 j Mar., i. 211.) Tall Jubair. — "A hill called after a certain Persian of Antd- kiyyah (Antioch). It lies about to miles from Tarsus.'* (Bil., 170.) " Tall Jubair is a town lying less than lo miles from Tarsus. <Y&k., i. 866; Mar., i. 21a) Tall KabbAsIn. — A village of the 'Awisim Province, belong- ing to the Halab District." (Yak., i. 869 ; Mar., i. 212.) Tall Kai'^an.^ — "A place in the Marj (or Meadow lands) of 'Akkah on iIr Syrian coast." (Yak., i. 869 : .Mar., i. 212.) Tall Kashkahan. — "A place lying between Al I>adhikiyyah and Halab, being about half a day from Halab, and about 3 days from Al Ladhikiyyah. Saladin had his camp here for a time." (Yak., I. 869 ; Mar., i. 212 ; and in Yak., v, 16.) Tall Khalid. — " A castle near Halab (Aleppo)." (Yak., i. 867 ; Mar., i. 211.) Tall al KIkAn. — A place outside Halab and well known." {Y4k., iv. 217 ; Mar., ii. 467.) Digitized by Google 544 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Tall Mannas (i) (Telaminia of the Crusades). — "A fortress near Ma'arrah Xu'man. I'hc Klialif al Mulawakkil lived here when he came to ^syria in the year 244 ' (^Vak , 1. 871 ; Mar., i. 213 ) Tall Mannas (2). — " A village of Hims." (Idem.) Tall Masih. — " A village in the neighbourhood of Halab (Aleppo)." (Yak., \. 869 ; Mnr., i. 212.) Tall Safiyah (Blanche-garde of the Crusades). — "A fortress of the Filastin Province, lying close to Bait Jibrio, in the district of Ar Ramlah." (Yak., i. 867 ; Mar., i. 211.) Tall as Sultan. — " A place lying a day's march fronn Halab (Aleppo) towards Damascus. There was here a caravanserai, and a rest-house for tiaveUeis." (Y4k., i. 867 ; Mar., i 311.) Tall Tajik (The Merchant's Hill). — "A village lying a little south of Kinnasrtn." (I. J., 255.) TamnI. — *' A well-built caravanserai, lying south of Kinnasrin, and just north of Ma'anrah.*' (I. J., 256.) Tan ha J. — "The name of a village, in which is a fortress, of the high-lands of the Balka Province." (Yak., i. 882 ; Mar., I. 217.) TanOniyah. — " A village of Hims." (Vak., i. 881 ; Mar., i. 216.) Tarfulan. — " A place in Syria." (Yak., i. 838 ; Mar., i. 202.) TarmIs. — ** .\ village of 1 )anKiscus.*' (Yak., iii. 533; Mar., ii. 202,) The latter writes the name Tarmisis. TartOs (Tortosa).— " a Syrian city," says Yakilt, "standing on the sea, near Al Markah and 'Akkah. At the present day ( 1 335) it is in the hands of the Franks." (Y4k., iiL 539 ; Mar., ii. 201.) The same as Antartiis, see above p. 394. At TarOn. — "A fortress lying between Jerusalem and Ar Kamlah. It was among those taken by Saladin in 583 (1187).** (YSk., iii. 534 ; Mar., ii. 303.) This must not be confounded with the celebrated Crusading Castle of Le Toron (Tibntn). Taula'.— **The name of a vUlage in Syria." (Y4L, i. 895; Mar., L 219.) At TawahIn (iaii Flour-Mills). — "A place near Ar Ramlah Digitized by Cuv ^^it. AT TAWILAH.^TIBNIN, 545 in the Filasttn Province There took place near here the cele- brated battle between Khumaiawaih ibn TiilQn (Ruler of Egypt) and the Khalif al Mu'tadhid-billah in 271 (884). Both armies fled panic-struck." (Yak., iii. 554 ; Mar., ii. 213.) At TAwtLAH.--*' Certain weOs lying between Tadmur (Pal- myra) and Kariyatain." (Mar., ii. 217.) At Tayyibah. — "A village of the district of 'Urd, lying be- tween Tadmur and Halab." (Mar., ii. 219.) Thahk al Himar (The Ass's Rack). — **The name of a village between Nabiilus and Baisfm, where lies buned Ibn Yamin (Benjamin)/' (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 33, verso j also Yik., iii. 582 ; Mar., ii. 224.) Thaniyyat al 'Ukab (i) (The Pass of the Eagle, or of the Steep). — '*A pass," writes Ibn Jubair, "lying to the north of Damascus. From here you get a view over Damascus, and the plain of the Ghautah. At this point the road divides ; one road goes south to Damascus, and the other east by the desert of the Samiwah to Al Irlk. This is the direct road, but you can only tmvel by it during the winter season. From the Pass we de- scended through the WSdt-bed between the hills down to the plain, to Al Kusair of the Ghautah." (I. J., 261.) ''Thaniyyat al 'Ukib," says Ydkftt, '* lies just above Damascus coming in from Hims. The Prc^het saw Damascus from here, as some say." (Ydk., i. 936, iii. 69? ; Mar., i. 230, ii. 265.) Thanivvat al 'Ukab (2). — "A pass m the Syrian Trontier Province (Ath ThughOr), near Al Massissah." (Yak., i. 936 ; Mar., i. 230.) TiBNiN (Lk 1'oron).— Ibn Juhair, who visited Tibnin in 1185, speaks of this celebrated castle of the Crusaders in the following terms : Tibnin is one of the largest of the fortresses of the Franks. It is the place of tolls for the caravans. The governor of it is a certain woman called Khanzirah ( The Sow), known also as the Queen. She is. the mother of the King al Khanzir (The Pig), who is lord of 'Akkah. We camped below the castle. The tithe^ collectors came down to us, and the tax was a Dln^ and a Kirit (the twenty-fourth part) of a Dtndr, Syrian currency (about eleven 35 Digitized by Google 546 PALESTiNH UNDER THE MOSLEMS, %h':V:ii2S) for cvcry head. They laid nu on ihc mcrchaius who were going on lo Ak^ah, lo that cursed King, for there (at 'Akkah) is the place of the tithe, and he takes a Kirat in every Dinar (worth of merchandise), and the Dinar contains twenty-four Knits. Most of the tithe<x>Uectors ue natives of M^gtihb (the westf Moroooo). After kaving Tibntn, our road lay among the fimns whadi stretch, one after the other, over the ootmtry. They are all inhabited by Muslims who lire in peifect security under the Fnuik rale They give up to the Franks half their crops at the tine of the gathering iii, and pay farther a poU-taz of one DInir and five Kirftts per head. They are not molested fiiither than this, except that on the fruit-trees also they pay a small tax. They live in their own houses, and very peaceably. The (corporations of; the maritime towns thai are in the h.inds of the Franks all manage their famisand villages alter this fashion." (I. J., 304.) "Tibnin," says Yakiit, "is a town in the Jabal Bani 'Amir. The castle overhangs Baniyas, and lies between Damascus and Tyre." (Yak., i. 824 ; Mar., i. 198.) At TfN AND Az ZaitCn (The Fig and the Olive). — These," writes Yakflt, " are the names of two mountains in Syria, as it is said. Or, according to another account. At Tin is the Mosque of NOh (Noah), and Az ZaitAn is the Mount (of Olives) at Jerusaleui. But there are many other explanations." (Yak., i. 91 1 ; Mar^ i. 335.) TiNNAB. — ^"A huge village belonging to Halab (Aleppo)." (Y4k., i 876; Mar., L 215.) TtRAH. — "A village of Damascus." (Yik., iiL 569; Mar.^ ii. 319.) At TObAn. — " A fortress in the District of HimSp or else in that of Hamfth." (Yak., iii. 556 ; Mar., ii. 214.) At TObanivyah. — " A town of the District of Filastin." (Yak., iii. 556 ; Mar., ii. 214.) TuBBAL. — " One of the villages of Halalj. It lies in the District. There is here a market and a mosque." (Yak., i. 82J ; Mar., i. 197.) TuHNA. — " A town of the Hnuran, belonging to the Damascus Province." (Yak., i. 824 ; Mar., i. 198.) Digitized by Cuv (v.it. AT TULAIL,—'UKAIL, 547 At Tulail (The Little Hill).—'* A place lying 2 marches from Al Ghamr and the like from As Sakariyyah." (Muk.» 192.) TuLBfN. — " A place in the Ghautah of Damascus." (Yak., i. 865 ; Mar., i. 2 10.) MA (St. Thomas). — " The name of a village and district in the Ghautah of Damascus. Bab Tilma (the Gate of St. Thomas) at Damascus is called after it." (Yak., I 895 ; Mar., i. 219.) Tuk'ah.- "A place in Syria." (YAk., i. 837 ; Mar., i. 202.) TuRANDAH. — "A place belonging to Malatyah (Melitene), and lying 3 marches therefrom in the Greek territory. The Muslims settled there in the year 83 (702), and built some houses, but afterwards removed thence and settled at Malatyah." (Yik., iii* 534 ; y^saCf s<>>0 TurmusAn.— A village of Hims.** (Yftk., i. 844; Mar., I 203.) TuwA, OR TawA.--*< The name of the sacred WM mentioned in the Kurftn (xx. 12 and Ixxix. lA), where Moses spoke with Allah before he was sent to Pharaoh. It is a place in Syria near At TOr (Sinai)." (VAk., iii. 553 ; Mar., ii. 213.) TuwAnah. — " A town in the Thughdr (or Frontier Provinces) of A! Massissah. The Khalif al Mamun, when he made hi.s mili- tary excursions into the Thugh(ir, ordered Tuwanah to he sur- rounded by a wall, a mile long by a mile broad, Tuwanah staiidmg in the middle thereof, for the garrisonin'j of his troops, and to keep his treasure there. He died before tlic wall was finished, and the Rhalif al Mu'tasim gave up the undertaking." (Y^., iii. 554; Mar., ii. 214.) TCzIn, or TtziN. — " A large village and district in the 'Aw^im Province belonging to Halab. It was originally counted as part of the Kinnasrln District, but in the Khalif ar Rash id's days this, with Manblj and other places, were formed into the 'Awdsim Province." (Yllk., i. 894, 907 ; Mar., L 218, 222.) *'Ttztn," says Ibn Battltab, in 1355, *'lies north-west of Hakb. It has been lately rebuilt by the Turkomans." (I. B., i. 161.) Tfixtn to Halab (Y&k.) is x day. 'Ukail. — One of the villages of the Haurftn in the neig^bour- 35— a Digitized by Google 548 PALESTINE USDEE THE MOSLEMS. hood of Al Liwd, in the Damascus territory." (YSk., iiL 703 , Mar., iL 369.) UkairbA. — ''A place near HtmsL" (Yftk., iiL 699; 5Car., il 278,) 'Urainah. — A yiUage in Syria. It is mentioned in the eariy conquests of the MuslimSi but its position is not given." (Yak., iv. 663 ; Mar., ii. 254.) 'Ura'ir. — " A spring, as it is said, belonging to the Kalb District, in Syria." (Yak., iii. 628 ; Mai., u. 244.) 'Urd. — "A small town in the Syrian desert belonging to Haiab. It lies between Tadmur and Ar Rusdfah Hisham.'* (YiUL, iii. 644 ; Mar., ii. 248.) URTiK, OR ArtIk. — "A district lying to the south-west of Halab (Aleppo)." (Y^, L 191 ; Mar., i. 43, and in Yik., v. 12.) 'Us. — ^^Said to be a place in Syria, but this is doubtful" (Yak., iii. 745 ; Mar., ii 289.) UsAis. — **A spring of water lying to the east of Damascus." (Ydk., i. 373 ; Mar., l 64.) UsilLiM.— ** A place in the Jabal ash Shardh." (YAL, i. 336 ; Mar., i. 55.) Al UshtOn. — "A place near Ant&kiyyah, if I mistake not* (Yak., i. 377 ; Mar., i. 66.) UsTUWAN. — *'A castle among the fortresses of the Greek country, but situated near the Syrian frontier. It was taken by Saif ad Daulah." (Yak., i. 245 ; Mar., i. 59.) Uthn.an. — *'A plai'c in Syria, mentioned by the poet Jumail ibn Mu'ammir." (Vdk., i. 119; Mar., i. 23.) Wad! Misa (Petra).— "This Wadi," says Yakfit, "is called after MOsa (Moses) the son of 'Amran. It lies to the south of Jerusalem, between the Holy City and the Hijjaz. It is a fine Wadi, full of olive trees, and is so called in memory of Mc^es, who came out of the desert of the Tih, leading the children of Israel with him. And Moses had with him the rock mentioned by Allah in the Kuran (ii. 57) in the verse, 'And when Moses asked drink for his people, we said, SiriAe tke Rack with thy rod, and from it there gushed twelve fountains,' and as he marched he carried this Rock with him, and fared forth. And when he halted Digitized by Goog WADI AN NAML,—WAILAHt OR AILAH. 549 he threw it on the earth, then there would gush out from it twelve springs, according to the number of the Tribes, so that each man knew his drinking place. Now wlien Moses came to this Wadi, and knew that his end was near at hand, he took ihought for the Roc k, and he fixed it on the mountain-.side there. From it came forth twelve springs, which divided among twelve villages, a village for every one of the Tribes. Then Moses died, but by his com- mand the Rock remained here. Now it has been related to me, Yakiit, by the Kadi Jamal ad Din Hasan, that he saw the Rock in this place, and that it is of the size of a goat's head, and there is nothing else on the mountain^side like to it." (V&k., iv. 879 ; Mar., ill 367.) WAd! an Naul (The Valley op the Ant). — ''This is named after the Ant, who preached to Solomon, the son of David. The W&dt is said to lie between Bait Jibrin and 'AskalAn."^ (Y&k., iv., 880; Mar., iii. 267. See above, pp. 402, 413.) Al WAdiyain (The two WApts). — *'A town situated in the Jabal As Sharlh, near ^e dties of Lot" (Ydk., iv. 880 ; Mar., iii. 368.) Wailah, or All. ah (Eloth, or Elath, on the .4^lanitic (Julf). — "Wallah," writes Mukaddasi, "stands on an arm of the China Sea (that is. the Gulf of Akabah). It is ;i juipulous and beautiful city, pu^sessing many palm-trees, also iisli in plenty. , * It is the great port of Palestine, and the emporium of the Hijjaz. The common people call it Ailah, but the true Ailah lies near by it, and is now in ruins. This is the place of which Allah — may He be exalted! — has said (Kurin, vii. 163): 'Enquire of them concerning the village that was situate on the sea.'" (Mule, " Ailah," says Idrisi, " is a small city, wherein the Arabs en- camp, and have entered into possession. The cape that projects above Allah is called Riis Abu Muhammad. There is hei^ a haibour, but no water is to be found near." (Id., a.) From Wailah or Ailah to Al Ghamr (Mi;k.) is 3 marches, and to Sughar (Muk.), 4 marches. * T ur the Muslim traditioa of this coUoqny see G. Weil, Btbliuke Lcgetfdm der AlmclmdHtur^ p. 238. Digitizca by Google 550 PALSSTWS UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Wajh al Hajar (The Face or Stone). — *<A pass near AI Jubail, on the coast of the Syrian Sea.** (Y4k., iv. 907 ; Mar., iiL 678.) WARTANts (i). — " A fortress in the lands of Sumais&t*' (YlUb, iv. 919 j Mar., iiL 284.) WARTANts (2).-<'* A vUlage in the Haurin." (/dem.} WisAdah. — '* A place on the road from Syria to Al Madlnah, in the further mountains of the Haurlln, lying between Yarfii' and Kurakir." (\ ak.., iv. 927 : Mar., 111. 288.) Al Wu'aikah. — '*A luriiLss in Jabal ash Sharali, near Wadi Musa (Petra)." (Yak., iv. 934 ; Mar., iii. 293.) Al Wutr. — " A village oF the Hauran. In the mosque here, as they say, Miisa ibn Amran (Moses) dwelt ; and there is shown here the place where his staff struck the Kock." (YaL, iv. 902 j Mar., iii. 276.) Ya*ath.— " A place lying between JQsiyyah and Ba'alhakk, and I march from either." (Muk., 190.) YabrIn. — A village of Halab (Aleppo) in the *A2Sa. District" (Y&k., iv. T,oo6 ; Mar., iii. 354.) YabrOd (i). — "A town lying between Hims and Ba'albakk. There is here a wonderfully cold spring of running water, from which, as it is said, the place is called Yabrild. The water goes under ground to the village of An Nabk." (Y&k., iv. 1,004 ; Mar., iii- 333 ) YabrOd and *Am YabrOd (2). — **A village lying north of Jerusalem, on the road from the Holy City to Nahulus, between which and Yabn'id is Kafar Xalha. It possesses^ orch.inis aiid vineyards, and olives and Sumach-trees." (Yak., iv. 1,005.) Vabus. — " A mountain in Syria on the Wad! at Taim, in the Damascus Province." (Yak., iv. 1,007 J Mar., iii. 334.) Yafa, or YAfah (Joppa, or Jaffa).— "A city of Palestine on the sea-coast. It is much frequented by the people of Ar KamJah," (Yb., 117.) Y4fah," WTites Mukaddasi, "lying on the sea, is but a small town, although the emporium of Palestine and the port of Ar Ramlah. It is protected by a strong wall with iron gates^ and the sea-gjates also are of iron. The mosque is pleasant to the Digitized by ^i^jv '^ YAFA, OR YAFAH^L YAKIN, 55s eye, and overlooks the sea. The harbour is excellent" (Muk., 174.) " YdB," says Idrisi, " is a coast-town of Palestine and the port of Jerusalem. ' (Id., 11.) •*Yafa," writes Yakfit, "is a city of Filastin on .the coast of the Syrian Sea, and was taken by Saladin with the other coast-towns in 583 (1187). After a few years, however, it was seized on by the Franks in 5H7 (1191), but was again taken by Al Malik al 'Adil* Saladin's brother, in 593 ( t 1 96) and dismantled.** (Ydk., iv. i ,003 ; Man, ill 332.) "YftfS, in Filastin,'' says Abu-l Fidil, writing in 1321, "is a stnall but very pleasant town lying on the sea-shore^ It has a celebrated harbour. The town of ViUft is well fortified. Its markets are much frequented, and many merchants ply their trades here There is a large harbour frequented by all the ships coming to Filastin, and from it they set sail to all lands. Between it and Ar Ramlah the distance is 6 miles, aiid iL lies west of Ar Ramlah." (A. l"., 239.) YdfA to Ar Ramlah (Is., I. H.), h march, or (Muk.) i march ; to 'Askalan (Muk.), i march ; to Jerusalem (Id.), 3 short days ; to Kaisariyyah (Id.), 30 miles. J isK \ ACiHRA. — " A bridge lying about 10 miles from Shamshat." (Bil., 139.) YahmOl ( r). — " A celebrated village of Halab of the District of Al Jazr." (Yak., iv. 1,012 ; Mar., iii. 336.) yAHMt>L (2).— '* A village of Bahasni in the Kaisiim District, lying between Halab and the Greek country." (Vik.^ iv. 337.) YAkid.— "A village of Halab (Aleppo) in the District of Al Urttk, and not far from the 'Azdz District." {YSk^ iv. 1,004 1 Mar., iil 333 ; and in Y&k., v. 32.) Al VakIn (The Mosque of Certainty). — A league distant from Hebron," writes Mukaddasi, " is a small mountain which overlooks the Lake of Sughar (the Dead Sea), and the site of the Cities of Lot. Here stands a mosque built by Abu Bakr as Sabahi, called Al Masjid al Yakin. in this mosque is seen the bedstead ot Abraham, which is now sunk about an ell into the earth. It is related thai wiien Abraiiam first saw from here, as in Digitizca by Gdo^Ic 552 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, the air (the burning oO the Cities of Lot, he lay down saying ' Verily I now bear witness, for the word of the Jjxd (Al Yakhi) is certain.'" (Muk., 173.) <*A1 Yaktn, " says 'Ali of Heiat, "is a village in which is the tomb of Lot. Here he sojourned after his departure from Zughar. It is called Yakin because as Lot journeyed wiih h;.^ tainily he saw ihc punishment which had befallen his people, and he pros- trated himself in this place and cried, *I certify that the promise of Allah is certain.' This, too, is the place where the Stinking Lake (the Dead Sea) was swallowed up : nUo it is said that the rock which Moses struck, and from which the t^'elve springs gushed out, is here, near Zughar. But Allah knows best the truth." (A. H , Oxf. MS., folio 42, versa; copied by Y4k., iv. 1)004, and Mar., iil 332.) Ibn Batdtah visited the neighbourhood of Hebron in 1355. He writes in his Diary : " To the east of the Haram of Al Khalll (the Hebron Sanctuary) is the Turbat (or tomb) of Lot, on a hOI that overlooks the Ghaur of Syria. Over his tomb is a fine build- ing of white stone, but without columns. Thence you see the Buhalrah Ldt (the Dead Sea), the waters of which are bitter. This was the country of Lot's people. Near by is the Masjid al Yaktn on a high hill, beautifully built, and in it is Abraham's Mihrab." (I. R, i. 117.) Mujir ad Din in 1496 writes that outside the Masjid al Vakin was shown the tomb of Fatimah, the daughter of Al Hasan, son of the Khalif 'Ali. (M. a. D. 67.) Yaldan. — *' A villnire lying some 3 miles from Damascus. The final n is sometimes left out, and the name pronounced Yalda." (Ydk., iv. 1,025; Mar., iii. 345.) Al YarCkiyyah. — "A large quarter lying outside Halab (Aleppo), called after YariUt of the Turkoman Amirs of NCkr ad Dtn Zanki. He lived here and built the palaces seen here for hini> self and his retainers. He died in 564 (1169)." (YIUc., iv. 1,001 ; Mar., iii. 331.) YAsOp.^*' A village of N&bulus in the Filasthi Province. It is celebrated for the abundance of its pomegranates." (Yftk., hr. i,ooa ; Mar., iiL 33a.) Digitized by Cuv ^^it. VAZUR,^ZABATRAH, OR ZIBATRAH, 553 VAzuR.— " A small town on the coast district of Ar Ramlah of the Filaslin i^rovincc." (Yak., iv. 1,002 ; Mar , iii. 331.) YuBNA, OR UhnA (i), (Jaiinkh, or Jahni.i.i.). -" An ancient city of Palestine. It is built on a hill. This is the place of which it is related that the Prophet spake, saying to Usamah ihn Zaid, when he despatched him on the first expedition : ' Fall on Vubna in the early mom, then set the town on fire.' It is inhabited by Samaritans." (Yb., 116; written in a.c. 891.) " YubnA," writes Mukaddasi, has a beautiful mosque. From this place come the excellent figs known by the name of the Damascene." (Muk., 176.) ''Yubnft is a town lying between Y&fi and 'Askal^. They show here a tomb said to be that of Abu Huraitah, the Com- panion of the Prophet." (A. H., Oxf. MS., folio 48 ; repeated by Ydk., iv. 1007, and Mar., iii. 334.) The latter adds that the tomb seen here is also said to be that of 'Abd AUah ibn Abi Sarti, another Compjanion of the Prophet. Vubnd, or Ubna, to Ar Kamlah (Is., I. H., Id.), J march ; to Yazdfld (Is., I. H.), i march. YuBNA (2). — "A place in Syria, lying in the District of the Balk^. It IS said to be a village belonging to Mutah. Proba!)ly this, more truly, is the place mentioned in the account of the expedition despatched by the Prophet under Usamah ibn Zaid into S>ria.'* (Y4k., i. 99 ; Mar., i. 17.) YOy!n. — ♦* One of the villages of Ba'albakk." (Mar., iii 353.) Az Zabadani.— A celebrated district lying between Damascus and fia'albakk. The river of Damascus rises here. The name is aometimet pronounced 'Az Zubdin.'** (YAk., ii. 915; Mar., i. 505.) *' Az Zabad&ni," says Abu-l Fidi, is a totm without walls. It lies on the side of the WMt Baradli» and continuous gardens extend fitom here right into Damascus. It is a most pleasant town, and very fruitful It lies 18 miles from Damascus, and the like from Ba'albakk." (A. F., 225.) Az Zabadani to Ua vilbakk (Muk.), 1 march ; and to Damascus (Muk.), I march. Zabatram, or Zibatrah. — " Zabatrah is a fortress lying very Digitizca by Google 554 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS, near the frontiers of the Greeks, and the Greeks have laid it in ruins." (Is., 63 ; copied by A. F., 234.) Zabatrab,'* says BiUdhuri, '* was an ancient Greek fortress. It was conquered by the Muslims at the samc^ time as Al Hadath. The place was rebuilt by the Khalif Al MansOr, having been destroyed during a Greek invasion. It was refottified a second time by Al Mdmiinf and has since been destroyed and lebnilt several times." (Bil.» 19T.) "Zabalrah, or Zihatrah, " says \ alvUt, "is a town lying between Malatyah and Suniaisat and Al Hadath, on the road to the Cireek country. It was called after 21abatrah, daughter of Ar Rum, grandson of Shem, son of Noah.'' (Yak., ii. 914 ; Mar., L 5^5') "At the present day,' writes Abu-1 Fidd, in 132 1, "Zabatrah has no inhabitants, and its fields are completely wasted. All that remains is the line of the wails, and but little of these even. It lies in a plain surrounded by mountains, and the vegetation grows dose to it all round. The place lies 2 marches south of Malatyah, and the same west of Hisn Mansfir. Between it and Hisn Mansftr is the mountain country and the passes. I, myself, passed through this pbce when we went to take Malatyah in the month of Muharram, of the year 715 (13 15) in the month Ntsftn (April), and there was excellent hunting in the oak woods of Zabatiah. There are found here hares of a »2e that nowhere else is seen tbe like."' (A. F., 234.) 2^batrah to Hisn MansOr (Is., I. H.), i day ; to Shamshdt (Id.), 15 miles. Zaghbah. — "A village of Syria.'* (Yak., ii. 933 j Mar., L 514.) Az ZaitCnait. — "A place in the Syrian Desert, where the Khalif Hisham ibn 'Abd al Malik used to camp before he built Rus&fah. ' (Yak., ii. 965 ; Mar., i. 525.) Zaiza, or ZlzA. — "A large village of the Balka Province, where the Hajj (Pilgrim caravan) halts. There is a market held at this place^ and there is here a large water-tank." (Yak., ii. 966 ; Mar., u 526.) The Birkat, or Pool of, Zlzah is mentioned by Ibn Batiltah as a Digitized by Cuv ^^it. ZAMLAKAN.—HISN AZ ZIB. 555 halt-stadon of the caiavans on the road down to Al Madfnah. (I. B., i. ass.) ZamlakAn. — " A village of the Ghautah of 'Damascus. The Syrians often pronounce the name Zamluki." (Yak., H. 944 ; Mar., i. 517.) Zanad. — " A village of Kinnasrin, belonging to the Bani Asad District. It is sometimes written with a />, Zabad, and this last is perhaps the mu/c correct pronunciation." (Yak., ii. 914, 951 ; Mar., i. 505, 519.) Zandan. — " A district ol Al Massissah. It was taken by the Muslims in the raid of the year 31 (652)." (Yak., ii. 950 ; Mar., i. 5»9 ) Az ZarA'ah. — "A place lying on the edge of the desert It has a well-garrisoned fortress, and the Badawtn Arabs pasture in the lands all round it" (Id., 26.) The name is sometimes spelt Ad Dar&'ah. Az Zari'ah to Al Kastal (Muk.), a marches, (Id., L Kh.), 36 miles; to Ar Rus4fah (Muk.), 2 marches; (Id) 24 miles; (L Kh.) 40 miles. Zardana. — " A small town in the neighbourhood and to the westof Halab (Aleppo)." (Yak., ii. 924; Mar., i. 509.) Az ZArIkA. — ** A place lying i march from 'Ammftn, and the like from Adhra'dh." (Muk,, 192.) Probably Kak'ah Zarkd, on the Zarka, or Jabbok River. A/. Zakka. — "A place lying between Rhunasirah and Suriyyah, of the Halab District, or of Salamiyyah, There is here a great well, whither the Arabs come in number^ for water. Near it is a place called Al Hammim, a hot-bath with thermal waters." (Yak., ii. 924 ; Mar., i. 509.) Hiss Az ZIb (Achzib of Josh. xix. 29). — " A fortress lying 12 miles from 'Akkah, on the shore of the Salt Sea." (Id., xi.) Az Zib is mentioned by Ibn Jubair as lying between Acre and Tyre. " We passed on our road a large fortress called Az Zib. It has a village and lands adjoining." (I. J., 307.) **Az Ztb," says Y&kiit, ''is a large village on the sea-coast of Syria, near Acre. The name is also pronounced Az Zaib. It was also known as Sh^t&n 'Akkah." (Yak., ii. 964; Mar., I 524.) Digitizca by Google 556 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Hisn az Zib to 'Akkah (Id.), 12 miles; to An Nawikib (Id.), 18 miles; to Al Iskandarijfj^h (Id ), 5 miles. ZitCsH. — '* A village near Ar Ramlah in the Filastln Province." (Yak., it 968 ; Mar., i. 526.) Zur'ab.— Mentioned by Ibn Batfitah as "a small town of the Haurftn." (I. B., i. 354.) Identical with the following. ZurrA.— "This," says YSlcQt, in 1225, 'Ms a small town of the Haurftn, called at the present day Zur*." (Yak., ii. 921 ; Mar., L 508.) Az ZurrA'ah. — "A number of places of this name are to be found in the Filastln and the Jordan Provinces. Among tlicm is Zurra'aii aJ Dahhak. There is also Zurra ah Zufar, near Balis, of the Aleppo District." (Vak., ii. 921 ; Mar., 1. 508.) Digitized by Googl APPENDIX. NOTE ON THE BUILDER OF THE GREAT AKsA MOSQUE. On p. 92 it is stated that the great Aksi Mosque of pre-crusading days, as described by Mukaddasi and Nasir-i-Khusrau, was built by the Klialif 'Abd al Malik about the year 691 (a.h, 72). My attthorities for this conclusion were Mukaddasi (see the passage cited p. 98), and SuyAtt (see p. 144) ; at the same time it was pointed out that no account has come down to us of any of the circumstances attending the foundation and building of the mosque, although in most other similar cases the historians give all the details of such events. Thus we have very full accounts of the building of the great Damascus Mosque (see p. 233), of the White Mosque at Ar Ramlah (see p. 303), and of the Dome of the Rock at Jeru- salcm (sec p. 116). Since Chapter III. has l)(.'i'n in type I have ( ome across the folluvuiig j)assage in Ibn al Athir's Chronicle, which if it could be relied on, or, in other words, if we kniw the authority on which the statement rests, would jierhaps outweigh Mnkadda^i's testi- mony that the Aksa was l)uilt by 'Abd al Malik When enumerat- ing the characteristics of the reign of the Khalif al VValid, son of 'Abd al Malik, Ibn al Athtr says : 'Al Walid was among the most accomplished of the Syrian Khalifs. He built of mosques the mosque at Damascus, the mosque at Al Madinah, supported on columns, and the Aksi Mosque.'* For this statement, however, I have been able to 6nd no earlier * Ibo al Athir, Chionkm^ v* 5. Digitized by Google PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. authority than Ibn al Athir, who composed his Chronicle in the first half of the thirteenth century, a.d. The earlier historians, as for instance Mas udi,* Ya'kQbt,t and Tabari^ mention the Khalif al Walid as the builder of two great mosques only, namely, the Damascus Mosque and the mosque at Madfnah. After Ibn al Athtr's days I have found two other writers who mention Al Walid as the builder of the Aksft, namely, the author of the history (in Arabic) generally known under the name of Al Fakhrl, who wrote at the close of the thirteenth centuiy, a*i> ;§ and the Persian Hamdullah Mustaufi, who wrote the TdrtiM-GuddaA^W in 1529 A.D. Both of these repeat the statement made by Ibn al Athtr, but whether they derived their information from his chronicle, or from independent sources, I have been unable to dcicriDine. ♦ Mas'Adi, V. 361. t Va'kflbi's History^ ii. 340. J Tal)ari, Scries \\, 1271. § Ibn Etthiqthaqa. W. Ahhrardt, p. 151. i The idrikh-i-ijuzidah has never been printed, but good MijS. cxBt o( it m the British Museum Library. Digitized by Google INDEX. 'Ain, Spring. Dair, Monastery. Jabal^ Mountain. 'Akaihih, Pass. Darb, Gate or Pass. Kafar, Village. Bdb^ Gate. HisHy Kal'ah, Kasr^ Nahr, River. Buhairah, Lake. Castle. IViW, Valley. Aaron, Tomb of, 7^ Al 'Abadiyyah, ^ Abasus, or Absus (Ephesus), 276, *• Abawi, .^81, ^p^* 'AbbCid, 181^ 'Abd Allah ibn Rawahah, Tomb of, sio 'Abd Allah ibn Tahir, Colon- nade of, 22 i 'Abd al Malik, Khalif, builds the: Aksd Mosque, i i .s, 116. 144 ; , builds the Dome of the Rock, | 115, et seq. ; Traditional ac- i count of, 144, etseq, ; Inscrij/- tion set up by, 119; Services instituted by him, 146. et seq. ; Servants of the Mosque, 165 ; Strikes gold and silver coin, Abel, Legends of his death, 240. 2^, 25*2, 420, 482 Abel Beth Maachah^ ^ i Abil, ^ \bil al Kamh. ^ Abil as SOk, ^Si Abil az Zait, Abila of the Abilene District, 38. Abila of the Decapolis, _j82 A'bilin, ^ Abraham, Birthplace of, 252, 259, 420 ; his circumcision, 468 ; he breaks his father's idols, 413 ; stone where he broke them, 256 ; his bed- stead, 551 ; Rock and Mosque of, 492, 493 ; Station of, and Oratory, 367, 518 ; is thrown into the fire by Nimrod, 416 ; Well of, 402, 403, 423 ; Tomb of, at Hebron, 302, 317, 318,320-324, 327 Abraham and his flocks at Aleppo, ^ J65 Abraham and Lot, 5^ Al Abrashiyyah, 382, i-A^l Absalom, so-called Tomb of, Abtar, and Nahr Abtar, 52? .^82, 56o PALESTINE L'SDER THE MOSLEMS. Ah 11-1 'Adas, Hisn, ^>,o, meia), 36, 8o^ 3S0, 384^ 385, vj*^ y Lake of, 60, 421 Ahu-1 Fi^, his geography, m Afasus, or Afsus (Ephesus), 276. Abu Futrus (Nahr Abi Futrus), 552 303. 390» v/-r*s^' Afik, or Fik {Aphck), ^ 38it Abu Ghaush, 481 385^ ; Monaster}' of, 429 Abu-1 Hasan, name of Kuwaik Aflila, 385, JuUi river, 61^ 361 'Afra, 3.S5, »^ Abu Hurairah, Tomb of, 337, 'Afrabala, 385, 339, 553 Al Ahass and Shubaith, 385, Abu Ishak al Balluti. the Ascetic, 537, 22 Al AHkaf, 386, Abu Kubais,Fort of, 352^jj;*??* y Al Ahmar, Hisn (Athlith), 403, Abu Kubais, Hill of, 165 [ ^*oJi Abu 'Ubaidah, Tomb of, Ahnas, in Egj-pt, where Jesus is 'A bud, 382, -iy^ said to have been bom, 300, Abulustain (Al Bustan), 276, ,^r-^ 277, ^iy-i-i*! 'Aidhu, or 'Aidh^in, for Tdhu, Abdna Nawwas, 419 456, Aceldama, 2x2 I'Aija, 386, Uk-* Achzid (Az Zib), 555 Ailah, or Wailah {Eloth, or Acorn Bread, u Elath), 27^ 28^ 3^ 549, Acre, Accho, St. Jean d'Acre, 'Ain, 386 fAkka), 30, 32, 41^ 328- 'Ain al Bakar (the Ox Spring). 12^1 172 ' 330-332 Adam, Burial-place of, 208, 316, 'Ain Baradd, 235 3^9 ; Cave of, 253 ; Alosque 'Ain Fijah, 58, 235, 232, 265 • of, 512; and his oxen, 330- 'Ain al F'ulfls (the Spring of the 332 ^ I Obolus), 4JJ Adami, or Udami, 382, ^5*'»>' ' 'Ain Ghamr, 441 Adhanah (Adana), 265 22, 32, ' 'Ain al Hirmil, 38, 63, 382, 'Ain JalOt, or 'Ain Jalud Wdhra, Meadow of, 267, 383, ; (Goliath's Spring), 386, 461 503, I 'Ain Jarah, 254, fi> Adhra'ah {Edrei\ 15, 3^^ ^ *Ain al Jarr, or 'Anjar, 347, 386, 383, i^b; jl ' 422, ^« ^ Adhruh (Adru of Ptolemy), 35, 'Ain al Khidr, 416, j-acJI 32, 384. 'Ain Mauki'in, 339, ^ 'Adiyah, Nahr, 238, 'Ain Rabbah, or Rubbah, 291, 'Adlun,or'AdhnQn (Ad Nonum), 'Ain Salim, or Sailam, 386 [292 384, oy*^ or o^"^ 'Ain as Sallur, 386 Admfita {Admah\ 289, l»^o» 1 'Ain ash Sharaf, 339 -Klia Capitolina (Jerusalem), 84 'Ain Sulwan (Siloam), 24i 162. Afdmiyyah, or Famiyyah (Apa- 1 1 79, 212, 220. 223 INDEX. 561 'Ain Tab, 42, ^ er* i Al Aklim, .^qo. 'Ain at Tawdshi (the Eunuch's Akminds, .^90, ^^tu Spring), 325 'Ain TharniSjor 'Ain Tamd, 387 'Ain Umm ad Daraj (the Virgin's Fountain at Jerusalem), 22q 'AinOn, 387, 'Ain Una, 33, 382 'AinQni raisins, 16^ 387 'Ain V'abrCld, 550 'Ain Zarbah (Anazarbus), tj^ 37^ 82i ^ sj^ or if;) 'Ain Zughar, 290-292 'Aithah, 388, 'Ajab, Ajam, 388, 'Ajlan, ££3, 'AjlOn, Jabal, 76^ 'AjlOn, Town of, 388 Ajnddain, 389, ^jf>>^>< Ak Deniz, Lake of, jj. Al Akra', Jabal (Mount Casius), 'Akraba, 390, Al Akr4d, Hisn (the Kurds' Castle, Crac des Chevaliers), 6_Li 801 liii ii^i AksA Mosque, 89-1 13, 178, 179 Aksdk, or Aksdl, 390, Jl— ^> Al Akwakh, 391, c^^W 'Al'dl (Ekakh), 3^ JUI0 Aleppo (Halab), 15, i^, 37-.^9» Kingdom of, ^ Alexander the Great, Tomb of, Alexandria, 380 [533 Alexandroschene (Al Iskan- darCinah), 351, 380, 458 'Ali, the Prophet's son - in - law, 'Akabah 'Afik (Pass of 'Afik), ' Shrines of, at Damascus, 247, 253» 269 ; at Acre, 3^; at 'Akabah al Baidi (the White Hims, 356 ; at Aleppo, 365 Pass), 509 1 *Ali of Herat, his works, 2 'Akabah al Mughithah (the Pass 'Alikin, 391, of Succour), 410 'Akabah an Js'isa (the Woman's Pass), 382 'Akabah ar Rumdn, or ar Rumadi, 389 'Akabah as Sawdn, «;o9> 'Akabah ash Shuhflrah, 488 'Akabah as Sir, or ash Shir, 389 Akdam, Shrine, 240, 2t;4 'Akir {Ekron\ 389, f» Al Akhrajiyyah, 389, l^f^ Al Akhuwanah, 389, wi^^J 'Akkd, or 'Akkah (Acre, Accho, Al 'Allah, 3^ i*«U Al 'Allatdn, 3^, o^"^' AlQs, 3^ Amanus Mountains, 8j Amarr, 3^ ^ Ainatha, Thermal Springs, 336 'Aniilah, Jabal, 7^ J-*- Al 'Amk, or Al 'Umk, or Al 'Amak, 60, 39 1> i>^' Kafar 'Amma, 46H, Uo ^ 'Amman {Rabbaih Ammon^ Philadelphia), 15, 18, 29, 32, 2i ^ 39i Ml m 39I-393t 397, St. Jean d'Acre), 30, 32^ 33, 1 'AmmOriyyah, 3^ h)y^ ill ■V^S-;,.^-;, 379. ^, or 'Akkar, Hisn, 390, 'Akkar, Jabal, 8q 'Ammuriyyah, or 'Amuriyyah (Amorium), 32^ 226, 282^ 382, 393 36 56* PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Al Amn {E/im /), Ui v:r** 'Amta, ii, 293, 'Amiira (Goniormh), 288-291, ij^le or I 'Amds, ^^Ip *Amwas (Emmaus Nicopolis), Amygdalon, Pool, 2iii 'AmyQn, 350, *Anadhan, 394, o**^^ Anaf al Hajar, Hisn, 3 so. 394> Anafah, 351, ;j52, ^ 'Anah, 394, ia^ A'nak, 394, -tJU*' Anazarbus (*Ain Zarbah), 27^ ;j2i Al Andarin, .^94, ^ji;^^ 'Anjar, 386, ^ 'Annabah, 306, Ant, Valley of the, 402, 403, Antakiyyah (Antioch), 15, 36- 322 4i 52i 60, 2_i, 78-82, 367- 377. 380. ; the great stomi at Antioch in 1050 a.d., 372 ; Lake of Antioch, 60, 2I Antartus, AntarsGs, or Tartus Apples of the Lebanon, 72 Apples of Hebron, 308 Apricot of Hamah, 359 Ar Moab, or Areopolis, 494 'Arabah, 'Arabaya, 3^ Aradus, 399 Arak, or Urak, 395, -^J 'Arandal (Arindela), ^ 395. Ardr, 396^ Arbasds, 396, ^y-^jp Arbela, Arbid or Irbid, 457 Arbikh, 3^ Area (see Ark ah) Ard ar Ruj, 61, J' u^j^ Ardhakdn, 350^ oy**J* Arethusa (Rastan), 6ij 3«;8, 380. iI2 Arfad, 396, oU^i Ariha, or Riha (Jericho), 15, iS, 28-32, 53, 288, 381, 396, or *aaej» ; Water of, 2O1 396 Al 'Arish (Rhinocolura), 397, Aristotle and the baths near Tiberias, 336 Al 'Arj, 21, e^t (Antaradus, Tortosa), 36, 39, ' 'Arjamus, or 'Arjamfish, 397, 352, 394, SMi u-y^J^' I lIOj 480, u-r^^ The Antichrist, and the signs of 'Arkah, or'Irkah (Arcados, Area, his coming, 42^ 165^ 41 1.494; Legends of, 290 Antioch (see Antakiyyah) Antioch, Plain of, 391 Antipatris of Acts, 472 Antipatris of the Crusaders, 399 Apameia (Afaniiyyah), 36^ 80. 380, 384, 385 Archis), 32, 39, 352, 397. Armanaz, 399, JjU*;' Armenia, Kingdom of LiitW (Sis), 22, 3«i 62, 63, 420, 538 Armenian Patriarch, 475 Arnon River (Maujih), 55 Arrabah, 399, t^^j» [381, 385 Arsh, or Cubit, 49 Aphcca, or Aphek ('Afik), 32^ Arshin, or Arajin al KusQr, 3gc Aphrodisiac Fish of Sidon, 3jj ^ ^r**^' vj^'^ or mT^^ Apollonia (Arsuf), 2^ 29, 399 ! Arsuf, 24, 29, 39, 399, ^y^^ Apollonia Syria: (Huluuyas), 36, Artah, 399, c^;' 39i ^ AAA, 504 Artik, or Urtik, 394^ 548. INDEX. 563 ArtOsiyyah (Orthosia), ^t^o, Arwad (Ruad, Aradus), 399, Arzuna, 400, Asfirah, 400, a^-a-t AsfOna, 400, ^»g^t'* Ashdod^ 381, 40 s Al 'Ashir, r--^^ Ashmunit, 368, Ashmilnith, 400, o. .ji^t.gxl S^/-^ 'Ashtard (Astaroth)^ 381, 400. Al 'Asi, Nahr (Orontes), 59-61, 70, m 354-360, Zlli 385i 'Askalan (Ascalon), 24. 29, 39. ^ ^ 400 403, 438, T?^--* 'Askar, a quarter of Ar Ramlah, 3o8,/--» 'Askar az Zaitfin, 403 Asphalt, called Humrah^ or MUmiva^ 64 66 'Assan, 403, Assassins, Sect of the (or Ismailians), 21i Z^i Si^ 485 > 507 ; Castles of, 3^ Assher, Tomb of, 470 Wadi al Astil, 403, » ^^ol^ Nahr al Aswad (the Black River), ^ 60, 62^ Tjj 72, 416, 436, 'Atham, 403, Al Atharib, 403, s^^ttW 'Athir, 403, ^ 'Athliih (Chateau Pelerin), 351, 380^ 403, Ard 'Atikah, .jo^ Al Atiniin, 404, Atrabulus.orTarabulus(Tripoli), ^2, 3^ 4i, 81, 348-35 2> 380, vj-^'^ ; Kingdom of, Al Atrakhun, Meadow of, 503, Al Atrfin (Caslellum boni Latronis), 404, o^^* Audan, 404, 'Auf, Jabal, 76, ^29, J-o- Augustinian Canons, House of, at Jerusalem, iji Nahr Al 'Aujd, 5^7VyJ> Al 'Aujdn, 6ij o^y^' Al Aulaj, 404, cV" Aulas, or Auldsh (Eleusa), ^ Auranitis (Hauran), 32-34, 39, 426 Al Auz4', 404, Al Auzd'i, the traditionist, 408 Al AVaj River, 267, 488, Al 'Awajan, o^>*^' 'Awarta, 404, i*;^ Al 'Awisim District, 26, 27, 36, 42, 369, ; Revenues of, 44-48 'Awir, 405, jdy» Ayas, 38, 405, ^^1*1 'Ayishah, the Prophet's wife, Tomb of, or shrine, at Damascus, 240, 247, 264, 26S Azar, father of Abraham, 413, 414 Al 'Azariyyah, or Al 'Aizariyyah (Village of T^azarus), 405, or 'Azaz, or A Viz, 405, or 3'>o Azdfid, or Yazd(id {Ashdod^ or Azotus), 381^ ^ O^Ojl Al Azrak, 41^ y^)'^ Nahr al Azrak (the Blue River), 62, 406 Ba'adhm, 406, ^^ioU* Baalah or Kiijath Jearim^ 306, 481 Ba'albakk (Heliopolis), 15, 19, 3^3214^58,60,61,21^80^ 295-298, 380, <^Ubt? Al Jiab and l^uza'ah, 62, 406. 426, wLJt 36—2 564 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Bab al Abwab (Gate of Gates, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 176, 185 Bab al 'Ain (Gate of the Spring, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 179 Bab Allah (Aleppo), ^62 Bab al 'Amarah (Damascus Mosque), 230, ^ Bab al 'Amud (Gate of the Columns, or Damascus Gate, Jerusalem), 21.^-21 «; Bab Antakiy>*ah (Aleppo), 361, Bib al Arba'in (Gate of the Forty, Aleppo), 361, 366 Bab Ariha (Gate of Jericho, modern St. Stephen's Gate, Jerusalem), 213, 214 Bab Ariha (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 183 Bab al Asbat (Gate of the Tribes, Haram Area, Jeru- salem), 161, 164, 174, 176, Bab al Asbat (City Gate, Jeru- salem), 214-216 Bkh al 'Atm (Gate of Dark- ness, Haram Area, Jerusalem), iM Bkh al 'AzQrah, or al HazQrah at Makkah, 381 Bab al Balat (City Gate, Jeru- salem), 213, 214 B^b al Band (Gate of the Post, Damascus Mosque), 228, 230, 23^, 249. ISli 260j 221 Bab al Baris (Damascus), 4^0, Bab liirkat Bani Israil (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 1 74, 185 Bab al Burak (Jerusalem), 183 Bab Dair as Sarb (Gate of the Servian Convent, Jerusalem), 215 Bab ad Da'iyyah (Jerusalem), 215, BaFDar al Battikh (Aleppo), 361 Bab Dafld (Gate of David, Haram Area, Jerusalem), i6i. 163^ iJlAi LZi 1861 188, 21^ Bab ad Dawadariyyah (Haram Area, Jerusalem), iM Bab al Farddis (City Gate^ Damascus), 232, 239, 254, 272t 430 Bab al Faradis (Mosque Gate, Damascus), 228 - 231, 238, 260 Bab al Faraj (Damascus), 231, 254 Bab al Fdris (Antioch), 368 Bab al Ghawanimah (Haram Area, Jerusalem), l86 Bab al Hadid (the Iron Gate, Aleppo), 362 B^b al Hadid (Damascus). 232 Bab al Hadid (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 182 Bab Harah al Magharibah (Gate of the Mogrebin Quarter, Jerusalem), 215 Bab Hdrah at TQriyyah (Jeru- salem), 216 Bab Harah al Yahud (Gate of the Jews' Quarter, Jerusalem). 215 Bab al Hashimiyyin (Hashimite (late, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 164, 174, LSd Bab Hims (Aleppo), 361 Bdb Hittah (Gate of Remission, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 161, 163, I79-J8t. 185, 1^ Bdb Ibraliim (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 174^ 186, 187 Bab al 'Irak (Aleppo), 361, 365, 366 INDEX, 565 Bdb Israfil (Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem), 123 Bdb al Jdhiyah (Damascus), 227, uii ^lAi m Bib al Janaiz (Gate of the Funerals, Haram Area, Jeru- salem), 183 Bab al JanAn, or Al Jindn (Gate of the Gardens, Aleppo), 362, 365, 266 I Bab Jairun (Damascus Mosque), 1 228, 2^ 2^ 2j8, 242, 260,! 270 I Bab al JihAd (Tarsus), 178 i Bab Jubb Armiyd (Gate of Jeremiah's Grotto, Jerusalem), | ILL, nA 1 Bab al Kabir (Damascus), 227. 2^J [232 ' Bab Kaisan (Damascus), 231, Bab Kalamyah (Tarsus), 476 | Bab al KattanSn (Haram Area, | Jerusalem), 182 j Bab al Khalil (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 187 Bab al Khalil (Jaffa Gate, Jeru- salem), 213-215 ] Bab al Khidr (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 164, i 74 Bab al Kibli (Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem), 123 Bib Kinnasrin (Aleppo), 361, 366 B4b al MaghAribah (Haram Area, Jerusalem), lSj Bab al Magharibah (City Gate, Jerusalem), 214 Bib Makam Ibrahim (Aleppo), 361 Bab al Matdrah, or al Muta- wadda, Haram Area, Jeru- salem), iM Bab Mihrdb DaCld (Jerusalem), 215 I Bab Mihrdb Maryam (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 174, 1&2. Bab Mikail (Haram Area, Jeru- salem), 182 Bab al Muhamaliyyln (Damas- cus), 221^ 2^ Bab an Nabi, or Bdb Muham- mad (Gate of the Prophet, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 140, 14T, 161, 163, 174, 178, 180- Bab Muslim (Antioch), 376 Bab an Nabi Daud (Jerusalem), 2 1 4 Bdb an Nahds al A'tham (Great Brazen Gate, Aksd Mosque, Jerusalem), og, lS6 Bab an Nahr (Damascus), 227, 111 Bdb an Nasr (Gate of Victory, Aleppo), 362, 366 Bab an Nasr (Damascus), 23a, 254 Bdb an Ndthir (Gate of the Inspector, Haram Area, Jeru- salem), 187, y^tJi ^ Bab an Ndtifiyyin, or An Ndtifdniyyin (Damascus Mosque), 231, 249, 260, 271 Bab an Nisa (Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem), 121 Bdb ar Rahbah (Jerusalem), Bab ar Rahmah (Gate of Mercy, the Golden Gate, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 161^ 163, 124, 122, 184, 2_LQ Bab ar Rakkah (Aleppo), 361 Bdb as Sd at (Gate of the Hours, Damascus Mosque), 228-230, 221 Bdb as Saghir, or Shaghflr (Damascus), 227, 231, 232, 22Sh 254» 222, 566 PALESTINE V^DEH THE MOSLEMS. Bab as Sdhirah (Jerusalem), 214, 216 Bab as Sakar (Gate of Hell, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 174, 182, /-Ji BAb as Sakinah (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 164, 1 74, 180, Bdb as Salam, or as Salamah (Damascus), 188, 232, 239, £54 Bab Santa Maria (Church of the Sepulchre, Jerusalem), 206. Bkb as SalObiyyah (Gate of the Crucifixion, Church of the Sepulchre, Jerusalem), 207 Bab ash Shaghftr (Damascus), 23i> 234. 5i3 Bab Sharaf al Anbiya (Gate of the Glory of the Prophets, Haram Area, Jerusalem), iM Bib ash Sharki (Damascus), 222, 2^ 232^ 254, 259, 4^ Bab SihyOn (Gate of Sion, Jeru- salem), 213-215 Bdb Sikandarunah, 4t;8 Bdb as Sikkdyah (Haram Area, Jerusalem), Bdb as Silsilah (Gate of the Chain, Haram Area, Jerusalem, 186, 188. 215 Bab Silwan "(Gate of Siloam, Jerusalem), 213 Bdb as Sirr (Aleppo), 366 Bdb as Sirr (Jerusalem), 214, 215 Bdb^Sulaimdn (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 163, 1 74 Bdb as S(ir (Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem), 123, Bdb as Surmayatiy yah (Damascus Mosque), 230 Bdb at Taubah (Gate of Repen- tance, the Golden Gate, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 161, 163, 174, 184. Bab at Tih (Jerusalem), 213. Bdb Tuma (Gate of St. Thomas, Damascus), 227, 231, 232, 2i2i 254, 542 ^ Bab Umm Khdlid (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 162, 174, 187 Bab al Wadi (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 161, 174, 183 Bdb al Walid (Haram Area, Jerusalem), 164, 174. l&6 Bdb al Yahud (Alep|)o), 361, 362, 365, 366 Bdb az Ziyddah (Damascus Mosque), 230, 231, 248, 260. 270 Babilld, 407, Bdbiyyah, 518, i^\t BdbGr (Papyrus), 68 Bddamd, 407, Uuu Baddaya, Hisn, 502, Badhandfin (Podendon), 407, Al Badi'ah, 407, &«e»>-3l Al Badiyyah, 407, Baghrds, or Baghrdz (Pagrae), 42, 71, 402, )»A or Bdhasithd, 408, 1**-^^ Bahasna, 22, 62^ 408, « Bahird, the Monk, 428 Bahr LOt, or Bahr Kaum Lut (Sea of Lot, or of loot's People — see Dead Sea) Bai'atain (the Two Churches), 430, i:ytS»*t Baise (Bayyas), 37, 3Q, 422 Al Baidd (the White, Aleppo), 365 Bairut (Berytus), 32^ 39, 41, 35h 408-410, ^)jit Baisdn (Bethshean, Scythopolis), INDEX, 567 L5i 15.- 30-3^, ^1 4ii 53. 2M1 mti llOi 4J-Lj o' Baisar, a dish, 2j Bait al Abar, 412^ Bait al Ahzdn, 412, o'>Ji Bait 'Ainun, 3J0, .^87, Bait Amur, 448, Bait Anat, 2t;Q, Bait ArAnis, 412, Bait al Baldt, 412, l-M Bait Ibrahim, 310, .^19 Bait Jaiin, 412, 419, Bait Jibrin, or Jibril (Beto- gabra, Eleutheropolis), 15, 281 23, 3^ 4i 64, ^ 412, J*/-*- or Bait Kuf^, 412, 488, l»y Bait Laha, 41.^, !^ Bait I^hm (Bethlehem), 164. 289-300, ^ Bait Libya. W wi-*-*, or Bait I^- hiyyah, is** or Bait al Alihali, w»-if, or Bait al llahiyyah {i^ Damascus), 237, 252, 4^ Bait Libya (2, Ghazzah), 414 Bait al Makdis, or Bait al Mukaddas (Jerusalem), 83, Bait Mama, 414, UU Bait Mamin, 415, ^jt^ Bait NOba, 425, Bait Ramah, or Bait ar Ram, 415. r*^' «^ or Water of, zq Bait Ras (i, Jerusalem), 32, 4i.«;, Bait Ras (2^ Halab), 4_i^ Bait Saba, 41 1;, Bait Sdbir, 419, Bait Sar'a, 41^, Bait Sawd, 415, <^ Bajarwdn, 18, o'^/^ Bajj Hauran, 415, ob^** Bak'd al 'Ais, and Bak'a Rabi'ah, 415, and ^ Bakarha, 415, l».>»l> Bakas, 80, 5^ Jabal Baki'ah, 76, J-a- Bakidin, 415, ^^;ft^ Baktatis, 415, ^U-^* Balaam, son of Beor, 417 Baladah, 416, l^. Balanca (Bulunyas), 36, 39, 57, 395. 400, 424, 504. BaldiiikUs, 5 1 8, ^yijiJIle Balas, 237, 416, vP^f Bal'as, 416, yj-^ Al Balat, ^ 4^ 1-M Al Balat (Jerusalem), 84 Balatah, 416, Balatunus, orBalatunush(Mansio Platanus), 416, or Bali'ah, 305, 306, 416, Balis (Barbalissus), 26^ 27, 36, Barisiyyah, cloth, 15 Baliya, river, 418, IJ^ Al Balka, district, ij^ 32-35> 4ii Bamah, 35^ Al Banafsaj, Wadi, 237* ^.■.a«..ll Biinakusa, 4i7» Banana fruit, l8 Banas, or Balniyds, Nahr, 58, 238, 266, 418, ^j-^ or Bani 'Amilah, Jabal, 75 Bani Hilal, Jabal, 7_7» 5^9 Bani 'Ulaim, Jabal, 421 Baniyas (r, Paneas, Caesarea Philippi), L5i Ml 2^ 418. ij-^^ ; Water of, 20 ; Lake of (Haiah), 68, 45i Baniyds (2, or Bulunyds), ^ 33, 57, iSii 4oo» ^ 568 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Barada, Xahr {i^ of Damascus), Batn as Sirr, 427 266, Batrik ibn Christian an Nakah, the architect of Ar 57-59' 12^ 12^ 26 or ^jt Barada, Nahr (2^ of Aleppo), 41Q Ramlah, 304 Baradd, Nahr ^ of Ramlah), Al Ba'uthah, 389, Barada, or (Cydnus), 6^ 378, Al Barah, 420, iJJA 4i5i Bayyas (Baiae), ^ ^ 422, ^ Baradin, Nahr Beeroth, 423 Beersheba^ 402, 403, 423 Behesdin, 408 Belfort, 56, 26, 534 Baravrwa (Bertea, Aleppo), 36s, Bell-tower of Church of Holy ^^j* , Sepulchre, 207 Barbalissus (Balis), 26^22^36^ Benjamin, Tomb of, 545 39' 4 ' 7 Bardha'ah, 364, Berothah^ Berj'tus (BairCit), 32, aSi 41, 3S1. 408-410 liari'. Kings of Sodom so-called, Beth Annabam, or Betho i^Berah), 280. j> Annaba, 306 Band, or Post Stage, Veredus, 1 Bethany, 211, 405 \ Beth Dagon (DajQn), 305; Ba'rin, 381^ 420, [ Beth Gubrin, Beto Gabra (Bait i Jibril, Eleutheropolis), 15, 28, 5^ 51 Barin, or s^j** or ^:je> 1 Al Bans, 420, o**-^' I Al Barrah, 420, Bars Birt, 420, Barth, 420, Barudh, 420, Barzah, 2^ 252^ 25^ ^ tjj» Al Bar/aman, 421, o^jj^^ Barzuyah, or Barzayah, or Barziyah, 2_Li 42 1, ^})jt or 19? 22» 111 ^ 412 BetKlehem (Bait l^hm), 164^ 289-300 Bet hs heart (Baisan), 15. 18, 19, 30-32, 32i iii Sii 288, iTSi 410, 411 Al Bikd', or Bika' Kalb (Plain of Ccelo-Syria), i5> 32, 39» 4i. 422, ; Lake of, 6^ Bikinnis, 422, Jazirah (Island of) al Basa, 421, \ Bikisratl, or Bikizrail, 422, J*"^)^ v,ir— ^' ' Biiad Sis (Little Armenia), 27, Kafar Basal, 469, J—* 38, 62^ 63^ 420. j>38 Basarfut, 421, Bilddhuri, his history, 2 Bashan^ Capital of, 383 j Bilal, Tomb of, 272 Tall Bashir (Turbessel), 42^ 542, ! Bilkis, Queen of Sheba, columns Bashit, 421, «>-^4^ Basir al JaidClr, 422, Al Bathaniyyah ( Batanaea), 32-34, 3Q-4I, 3832 ^athrun (Botrys), ^45, 7^ 422, of her tabernacle, 264 ; her dowry, Ba'albakk, 2^ Bir al An^ah (Well of the Souls), 132 Bir Ayyfib (Well of Job), 220- 223 Bir ar Rahmah, 2^ INDEX. 569 Bir as Sab' (Beersheba), 402, 40 3, Buhairah Bdniyas (Hulah), 6S 423, J' jn* Buhairah al Bika' (I^ke of Blr al Warakah (Well of the Coelo-Syria), 63 I^f), 198-200, 292 ! Buhairah al Hadath, 62^ 12 Al Birah (r, of Nabulus), 423, Buhairah Hims, or Buhairah Al Btrah (2^ of Sumaisat), 423 Kadas (i» ^-^ke of Hims), 60, 61, 69 Al Birah (3, of the Euphrates), Buhairah Kadas (2, Merom), 5_2, .27, 3S, 41i Sij 6S Birds, Aquatic, on Lake of Al Buhairah al Makldbah Afamiyyah, 20 Birkat Bani Israil (Pool of the Israelites), 200, 20J Birkat Hammam al Butrak, 2m Birkat 'lyad, 200, 201, t^jt Birkat al KhaizurAn, 423 Birkat Sulaiman, 200, im Birkat Ziza, or Zaiza, 2^ 554 Birwah, 42^, t^jt Al Bishr, 423, j-i-^^ Bityas, 424, ^^r-^ Blanche-garde, Castle of, ^ 544 Bokebeis, 352 (the Overturned Lake), if^&J\ 5y-«kJi, or Al Buhairah al Miyyatah (the Dead l^ke), is-Ji 6^-a>Ji, or Al Buhairah al Muntinah (the Stinking Lake), frAiuJi i^:^', the Dead Sea, 31, 52-54, 64-67 Buh;iirah al Marj (the Damascus Lakes), 6^ 262 Buhairah al Matkh, Buhairah an Nasara (Lake of the Christians), 21 Buhairah as SallClr, 7 2, Bostra, Bozra, 32^ 33, 425, 428 '. Buhairah Sadilm wa GhamQra Botrys, 345, 351, 422 j (the Dead Sea), 66 Bread of acorn-meal, jl i Buhairah Sughar, or Zughar (the Bread-ovens in Syria, Dead Sea), 64 Bridge over the Jordan, 52, Buhairah Tabariyyah (the I^ke „ over the Saihan, 62 of Tiberius), 31, 42, 52, 67 over the Orontes (called Buhairah al Yaghra, jIj 186 the Iron Bridge), 60. Buk', 424, ^ Bridge over Hell, called As Sirat, BOka, or Bukah, 424, or Hyt 24 (see also /tsr) Bukai'ah, 352, Brocade of Damascus, 240 Bukas, or BOka, 424, ij-^yi Al Budai*, 424. Buldah, £2: Buffaloes, first introduced into Bulunyas (Balanea, Valania, or Syria, 362 Baniyas), 36, 33, 521 a25i 40o, Buffalo-milk, 16 424, 504, ^j-^^ Bughaidid, 424, Bunni-fish, 6& Buhairah Afamiyyah (Lake of Burak, 425, ^^j* Apameia), 60j 22 I Burj Ibn Kurt, 425, ^jf^ Buhairah Antakiyyah (Lake of Burj ar Rasas, 425, ^^^-P' Antioch), 60^ 2* I Burkah Ajwal, 425, J^' Hj* ^'^^ ^ALESTISE L'SDER THE MOSLEMS. 5 -^-^ '-5- Castle of the Kurds (see Crac 2,---. ^14^ j—t des Chevaliers) i.::^tri, B.z^j^. ,^ ^ Castle of Plans (Kalansuwah). sS^ ll6 r ^iiir_ 2'- Castellum Peregrinorum, or £.:-■!::. W l^^ ic^ 62, 4,06, 426. Chateau Pelerin, 351. 380, -\1 r ,::^:.:'. 0. BuiLii - Vallevand Castrum Boni Latronis, 404 1 : . -^^9^ ^V^' Cavar Salim (Kafar Sallara ?), r u-r-i --:, - r Bu^d i, 6 J. 406. 436, Cave of Adam, 253 ^^v-* Cavern of Blood at Damascus, 240, 2^2, 272, 482 L-ir " rx-ure. 4S Cave of Famine, 253, 482 O" . i£. ^ -Sck. 462 Cavern of Korah at Jerusalem. C^- - - 223 ^ Ai£2 Cave of the Seven Sleepers, 274- Cje^sirtM : :r.e Lebanon (Wrkah), 2M Cavea Tyrum, 5^ C>i^>mr^ o: Pa'.vsrne fKaisariy- Cerep, 403 vur. ^ r>. 41. 3^o> 474 Chabolo, 467 Cj^^^rea Fhi. i pi iBaniyas), Chaco, ^25 54- ;^ 41S Chalcis (Kinnasrin). 486 Cu::^. and Abe':, Legends of, 240, Chalcis ad Belujii, 386 J5>- 4-0. 4S2 Chalk hills, 2D 0\.:.v^>. Ca:.;mon. jso, ^ Chalus river (Kuwaik), 6±, 487 C-i-..n:ou>, 51S ,Chara, 478 Canu ru 42^ iChosroes, Crown of the, pre- Cann of C.aiiiee, 460 ; served in the Dome of the Cana-in, ^"a^.ey of, 415, 462, 4721 : Rock, 147 ^-4 Christian festivals observed in Capernaum of Crusaders (Tall Syria, 21 Kanisvih). 4TT Christians, physicians and scribes, Carat wei4:ht, 4S, 50 of Syria, 25 Carmel. Mount, 446. 487 Christians and Jews in Jeru- Carv^b, fruit of locust-tree, or salem, Sij St. John s bread (KhamCib, or Christmas festival, 21 Kharrub), 16, 544 | Church of Bali'ah, 306 Casius. Mons ( Jabal Akra'), &i I Church of Barlxira (Antioch), C.isius. Mons (Jabal Kasiyiin), I 368 5S, So, 240, 252. 252, 222, Church of Constantine at y#* iiili v2Q Bethlehem, 2^ ; at Rus4fah, ■ Castle of (foliath at 'Amman, 522 [Church of St. George, 493, 4^4 INDEX, 571 Church of St. Jeremiah, .^06 „ St. John at Damas- cus, 225, 231. 260 Church of John (Yuhanna), Hims, ^ Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Jerusalem), 58, 141, 202-210 Church of Kusiyan (.Antioch), 12i Hi Church of Mary at Tortosa, 2^ ; at Antioch, ^68 ; at Damascus, 254, 264 Church of the Tomb of Mary, Jerusalem, 210, 219 Church of St. Thomas at Damascus, 265 Church of the Tree, 339 „ At Tur (Sinai), 4^ Church (see also under Jeru- salem, and under Kamsah) Clepsydra, or Water-clock, in the Damascus Mosc]ue, 2t;o, 271 Clepsydra, at Antioch, 37 1 Climate of Syria, Ccelo-Syria (Al Bika ), L5i li^ 32. 41. 422 ; Lake of, 69 Constantine's Basilica at Beth- lehem, 298 Constantine's Church at Rusafah, 522 Convent (see under Dair) Coperas mine, 467 Corycos (Kurkus), 489 Cotton, 81^ 405 Crac des Chevaliers (Hisn al Akrad), 61, 80, ^ 390, 452 Le Crac, Petra Deserti (Karak), 412 Cross, Feast of the, 2.1 Cydnus river (Baradan), 63^ 378, 412 Cydonian apple, or quince, 16 Cyrrhus (KClrus), 380, 489 Dabik, 6rj 426, 503, Dab 11, 426. J?»o Dabflriyyah {DabcratK)^ 427, DadhOmd {Admah /), 291, U^oU Ad Dafn, 427, ^^oJl Dahik, 427, DaibOd cloth, Dair, monastery or convent, 427 Dair Abdn, 427, o^' Dair al 'Adhdri, 427, y^}^^ jl^ Dair Ayya, 427, ^i'^io Dair Ayyftb (Monastery of Job). 412 Dair Ha'anlal, 427, Js^l> Dair Balad, 427, ^jtX* jjo Dair al Balliit, or Dair al Balat, 428, t3uJ' or V-yuJi ^ Dair Baraghith (Convent of Bugs), 368 Dair Bassdk, 428, j\<^ DairBaulus(Convcntof St. Paul), 428 Dair Bawanna, 428, \iy Dair Bishr, 428, Dair al Bukht, 428, wi^i Dair Busra, 428. >»o Dair FakhOr, 428, jy^^ Dair al Farfts, 49 1, 492, ^5;l63i or J^'^ Dair al Fu ah, 440,^^0^1 Dair FutrAs and Dair Baulus (of St. Peter and St. Paul), 429 Dair Fik, 429 Dair al Ghaur, 430 Dair Hafir, 429, 446, ji*> Dair Hanina, 429, ^jJ^- Dair Hashiydn, 429, o^^^ A*^ Dair Hind, 429, Dair Ishak (Convent of Isaac), 422^ Dair Kais, 429, ,^f*^ ji^ Dair Kanftn, 429, Dair Khalid, 430 .-3. 1/ vr J^/* ^ an Ni:.::ri:-^ 1,;^. 4U- l>a;r -S i'/.:r. 4 ^2. I>air Sil'.irj Alep{X)), 4:^2 Dair Samwil, or Shamwil, or Nabi Samwil (Convent of St. Samuel), 43-^, ^y-r^ or I)air as Shaikh, or Dair Tall 'A/az, ^oZi s>' OT of Jerusalem, i.^-Ci, 15, 15, ^2, I Dair Sim'an (t), 4.^.^, o^**— Dair Sim'an (2^ St Simeon's Harbour), 4.^4 Dair Sim an Aleppo), 4.^4 Dair at Tajalia (Convent of the Transfiguration), or Dair at 1'ur (Tabor), jt-> J-r i. c-r rrorlnce of, 3g-35> Rt^"trr. _t5 of. 44-4S V^ '^ZZi'T. nf, 40 >2Tr^^-5 Cirv, caUed Jillik, 25 265 : called Iram of the Columns, 232. 235, 25S, 265 [20 Prc-iu'-ts of, and water, 19, A'.nham, birthplace of, 2 "2 stone where he broke his idols, 2^6 'Ali, Shrine of, 247, 253, 269 Ayishah. Tomb or shrine of^ 240. 247, 264, Piait al Mai, treasury, in Mosque, 227, 240, 246 Cain and Abel, Legends ofi lili ^59 Cavalry House ( Dar al Khail), 245, 248^ 220 Cave of Adam, 2S3 Cavern of Blood, 240, 252, 272 Care of Famine, 2/^3 Church of St. John, 225, 231, Church of Mar>', 254. 264 „ St. Thomas, 26^ Cloister of the Sufis, 251. 2IL Ul INDEX. 573 Pamascus {contifiue»i) : Clepsydra, or Water-clock, in the Mosque, 2«;o, 27 1 Colonnades round the Court of the Mosque, 246, 2M Coppersmiths' Bazaar, 245. 248, 270 Cupola of the Water Cage, 247, 268 ; of Zain al 'Abidin, 268 The Eagle Dome, 244, 257 Gates of the City, 227-2-^2, Gates of the Mosque, 228- 23H, 249, 260, 270 Ghautah, or GhCtah, garden- land round the City, ^ 33, 32, 40, ^2, 225, 2^, 2^ 258 The Golden Stone (Hajar adh Dhahab), 238 Greek Inscription in Mosque, 231 ; said to have been found there, 234, 2^ Hill of Jesus, 2^ 240, 25J HQd, the Prophet, buried in the Mosque, 258, 264. 269 Husain, head of, kept in the Mosque, 236, 24Q, 270 Jairun, son of Sa'ad, son of 'Ad, and his palace at Damascus, 235 John the Baptist, head of, preserved in the Mos(|ue, 2^ 2^ 2^ 252, 264 Al Kallasah, Mosque, 247, 264 Al Khadra, palace of, built by the Khalif Mu'awiyah, 229, Uh ^ M5i 248, 270 Al Khidr, Station of, 25J ; Chapel of, in Moscjue, 264 Lead roof of the mosque, 262 Lead, Dome of (Kubbat ar Damascus {continued) : Rasas), or Dome of the Eagle (Kubbat an Nasr), 243, 244, 263, zMl \ Ascent of the Dome and descrip- tion of the interior, 256 Madrasah (College) of Shifi'ites, 251, 271 MaksCirah of the Companions, MaksOrah, the New, 24^ Maksflrah of the Hanafites, 245, 262 Maristan, or Hospital, 255 Mash-had al Akdam, 240, 254 Minarets of the Mosque, 246, 264, 269 [247 Minaret of the Bride, 230, The White Minaret, where Jesus will descend, 254, Mosque, (ireat Omayyad, de- scribed by Mukaddasi, 227- 22Q ; by Ibn al Fakih, 232- 2.^4 ; by Idrisi, 238 ; by Ibn Jubair, ?4i-2«;2 ; by Ibn Batutah, 267-272 ; the Mosque, said to have been burnt by Timtir-Lcng, 222 ; account of its building by the Khalif Al Walid, 232- ^Mi 2i6, 2^ 2^ 242^ 260-263 ; length and breadth of the Mosque, 261:;, 267 Mosaics (called Fashfashah, or Fusaifusa)of the Mosque, 228-230, 241, 262, 268 Mudwiyah, the Klialif, makes Damascus the seat of his government, 225, 232 ; his palace of the KhadrA, 229, 231, 232,234, 238, 24^,248, 270 ; buried at Damascus^ 2iL 212 574 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Damascus {continutci) : 'Omar ibn 'Abd al '.\ziz, Khali f, threatens to destroy the C'»reat Mosque, 229, 26^ ; is petitioned by the Christians to restore their Church to them, 242, 265 ; his Mosque, 249, 270 ; his palace, 252, 252. Ul Omaj^ad IChalit's, their tombs, 'Othman, Khalif, his Kuran, 248, 264, 269 Revenues of the Mosque, 247, 26S Rivers of Damascus, 235, 238, 265, iM Rose-water of Damascus, price given, 266 The "Straight Street," 2^ 256 Saladin's Tomb, in the Kallasah Mosque, 264 Tanks of the Mosque, 25 1 Timur-Leng, said to have burnt the Great Mosque, 272 Windows of stained glass in the Mosque, 244, 267 Zacharias, father of John the Haptist, his tomb, 269 Da'iyyah, M''^ Diijun Dagon)^ 305, o>^'*> Dam On, 4.^S. or*'** 1 )an, Tomb of, 458 Dana, 436, ^'»> Danik, sixth part of the Dirham, or of the Dinar, ^ Danith, or Daniyath, 436, .^^lo Danwah, 436, Syo Dar al Kusas (House of the Priests, at Jerusalem), Ad Dara'ah, or Az Zara'ah, 555, Darab, or Darab, ^5, hj';^ or Rabad ad Dirain,436. ;'«vM ^jt^. Darayyah, or Darayya, ^ 2.37, 419, 436, ^;to or ; River of, zMi Darb al 'Ain (the Pass of the Spring), 386 Darb Bait al Makdis, Darb Bila'ah, Darb Bir al Askar, Darb Dajun, Darb Ludd, Darb Masjid 'Annabah, Darb Misr, Darb Yafa (Gates of Ar Ramlah), 305^ 306 Darbasak (Turl)essel), 60^ 436, Darkush, 60, 437, ^^)'> Burj ad Darrajiyyah, 43 7, Ad DSrum (Daroma), or Dairdn, 4i 4^2, ^ r^>^Ji Dariima, 4^ U^;>o Jabal ad Darziyyah (Druze Mountains), 80, U.'))^^ Dates of Zughar, 289, 292 Dathin, ^ Dawiddriyyah, meaning of the term, iM Ad Dawiyyah, the Templars, Castles of, 447, 45i David, Tomb of, at Bethlehem, 2^ Dead Sea, ii, 52, 54, 64 67, 288- 290 ; medicinal properties of its waters, 65 Desert of the Wandering of the Israelites (At Tih), 27-29, Hi Desert between S\ria and Mesopotamia (As Samawah), Dewfall in Palestine, 87 [530 Dhadhikh, 4.^7» c**^'*^ Nahr adh Dhahab (the Gold River), 62^ 460, »— ^JJi ^ INDEX. 575 Ad D(ir, Adh Dhahir, Fatimite Khalif of Egypt, his inscription in the Aksa Mosque, 102 ; his in- scription on Wall of Haram Area, mi ; his inscription in Dome of the Rock, 125 ; Rati weight called after him, 51 Dhanabah {jj^ 437, Dhanabah (2), 438 Dhat ar Rumh (Possessed of Lances), 438, ff^\sjL»\^ Dhat Kasrain, 496 Dhat al Kusur, 497 Dhibyan {Dil}0'i\ 438, x^.*^ Adh Dhinab, ^ s^oJi Dhira' Maliki (Royal Ell), 49 DhCi Dafir, 438, ^6-&^»> DhQ-1 Farwain, 438, s:3i^/^^ Dhfl.l Kifl, the Prophet, Tomb of, 222, 4^ Hisn l)h{i-l KikV, 45^ ^6 Diban (Dibon), 438 Dibs syrup, i^j 298 Ad Dikkah, 438^ i^oJi Ad Dimas {j^ Antioch), 368, Ad Dimas (2^ 'Askalan), 438 Dimashk (see Damascus) Dimashki, his geography, m Dinar and Dirham (coin), 43 ; f weight), 42, 32 Diyaf, 438, Dome (see under Kuhbat) iJome of the Rock (see Jeru- salem) Dress of the Syrians, 22. Druze Mountains, 8q Duban, 438, o^^** Duluk, 36, 386, 382, 4^8, Dumair. 438, Dunimar, 58^ 438, Dung Gate (Jerusalem), 214 Dunkuz, Amir Saif ad Din, 63 Dfirah and the DCiri raisins, l6 Durra'ah, or vest, 22. Dflshar, Kala'at, 417, y>»^o Dyke, on the Hims Lake, 22 Eagle, Dome of the, at Damas- cus, 244, 232 Easter festival, 2 1 Earthquakes at Ar Ramlah, 307 „ Jerusalem, 103 Ebal and Gerizim^ 74^ 511,512 Eber, 382 Edam (Ash Sharah), 28, 32^ 33, .VS, 3Q> 41, 74> 287, 384 Ed ret (Adhra'ah), 13^ ^ 40^ Eel, 22, 421 Ekron ('Akir), 389 Elath^ or Eloth (Ailah, or Wailah), 27, 28, 39, 549 Elealeh ('Alal), 3^ Eleusa (Aulas), 32, 404 Eleutheropolis (Bait Jibrin), 15, 28, 29. 39, 41. 64. 380, 412 Elisha, Tomb of, 537 Ell, or Dhira', 4^ Elusa, 30 [332 Emesa (Hims), 5, 78-82, 353. Emetic spring of water, 471 Emmaus Nicopolis ('Amwis), 28, 324 En^anmm (J in in), ^ 464 Eti I'-o^ely 22 1 Ephcsus, 276 Ejjiphania (Hamah), 33, 78-81. -V';7-.^6o, 364 Esau, Tomb of, 42 1 : Slaying and burial of, 324 Esdras, or I'^ra. 382 Eve, 239 Faba, Castle of (Al Fulah), 44 1 Fadhaya, 438, 576 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Fahl, or Filil {t^ Pella), ^o, ^80, Fahl (2, Jordan Province), 4.^9 Faltam, ^ Famiyyah, ^ 80, ^ ^84^ ^ Al Fanduk, 439, Fanduk Bugha and Fanduk al Jadid, ^ Faradhiyyah, ^ ^ &i6i> Faradis Damascus), .^88, Paradis (2^ Halab), 440 Farddis ^ Jerusalem), 440 Faran Ahrun (Paran), 22i 440i 522, o^^' Farbaya, 440, Farsakh, the Cireek Parasang, a league, 50 Fashfashah, or Fusaifusa, mosaic work, 229 Fatimah, Tomb of, 552 Fawwarah ad Dair, ^ Fayd, 440, l*^ iergusson, the late Mr., his theory of the Holy Sepulchre disproved, 122 Ferrandus, Mons, 420 Fertilization of vines and fig- trees, 6^ Festivals observed in Syria, zi Figs, various kinds of, Lfi Fijah and Ain Fijah, 58^ 235, 222, 265, ^ Fik, or Afik (Apheka), ^ 381, ^St; ; Monastery of, 429 Filastin (Palestine), Jund, or Province of, 27-30, 39, ; Products of, i8j Revenues of, 44-48 Ford of the Alide (on the Jaihan), 444 Al Fu'ah, Al F(ilah (Faba), 441, Al Funaidik, 441, Funaidik Damdyah, Fur pelisses, 506 Furkulus, 441^ Gabala, GibcUum, or Gibeilus Major (Jabalah), 36, 39, S7, Gable-roofs of Mosques in Syria, 2J Gad, Tomb of, 458 Gadara, Thermal Springs at, 54, 336 Gangra, 324 Ganneau, M. Clermont-, dis- covery of tablet in the wall of Haram Area, Garum sauce, 20 Gate (see under Bab and Darb) Gaulonitis (Jaulan), 32^ 34, 39 Gaza (see Ghazzah) Gebalene District (Al Jibal), 28. 25, ^25 Gehenna, Valley of (Jahannuni), 2 1 8-220 Gerasa (Jarash), 30^ 32, 383. 3882462 Gcriztniy lAi 484. 511, 512 Germanicia (Mar'ash), 22^ 37-3r, 63, 82^ 502 Gcz, or culMt^ 42 Ghaba, 441^ ^ Ghabaghib, 441. w^L* Ghadban (Cydnus), 63^ Al Ghadkad(inah, 484 Ghainah, 441, Ghaliyah, 254, i-J^ Ghamiyyah, 441, ifl-tii Al Ghamr (Gomorrah /), 44:, Gharendel, 3^5 Al GhasGlah, 441, eJ^— All Al Ghathah, 441, Al Ghaur (the Jordan Lowland), 30-32, 43. 5ii 62i INDEX. 577 Al Ghautah, or Al Ghatah (the Plain of Damascus), ^ 33, 40. 42, 225, 2^ 222j^2^ Gh&wah, 441, Sy* Ghazzah (Gaza), 24^ 28^ 2^ .^8i, 441-44:^, ; Kingdom of, ^ Al Ghazzali, his chamber in the Minaret of the Damascus Mosque, 246, 264 Ghirarah, measure, 50 Ghunjurah (Gangra), 374, Ghunthur, 443, Ghurab, 443, Hisn al Ghurab, 479 Ghurjistan. the Amir of, his Dole at Hebron, 310 GhQri. the Amir Laith ad Daulah Ndshtakin, i6q Ghurrab, 443, Ghuwailiyah, 254, Gindarus, 462 Ginea, 4_i, 4^M Giscala (Al Jashsh), 462 Glass and pottery ware of Tyre, Gog and Magog, 62 Goliath. Castle of, ^92 ; Spring of, :i86 Golden Gate of Jerusalem, 184 Gomorrahy 288-291, 441 Grapes, called 'Asimi, \h. Greek inscriptions, 231, 234, 261, 320 Habb, or grain-weight, 48 Habib an Najjar, the Prophet, Al Habis and Habis Jaldak, Mil u-*^^' Hablah, 443, eJus- Hablah, daughter of Noah, her tomb, 397, 480 Habra (Hebron), Habrun, 41, 164, 309-327, oyr^ ypJ^ i description of the Sanctuary by Nasir-i-Khusrau, 311-315 ; by 'Ali of Herat, 316, 318 ; visits to the Cave of Mach- pelah, ^12 ; the Cave re- paired by the Crusaders, 318 ; measurements of the Sanc- tuary, ill, ^ Hadas, 443, Al Hadath al Hamr^ ijj 38, 35o> 443t Al Hadath, Lake of, 62^ 22 Hadhirah. 445, ^jc^ nadir Kalb, 44s, ^ Al Hadithah, 445, &540«J» Al Haffah, 445~Sa)i Hifir, 446. ji^ Hafir, 446, Haifa, or Haifah, 351, 446, 482, iiuet. or Haildn, 446, Hajj Road (Darb al Hajj), 447, Hajar adh Dhahab (The Golden Stone, at Damascus), 238, 446, »-r^ Jll jgyb. ' Hajar Shughlan, 447, o^*- j*^ Hajira, 428, 447, 'y*»s>- Al Hakim-bi-amr lllah, Fatimite Khalif, destroys the Church ot the Holy Sepulchre, 204 Hakl, 442, Jfl«- Hakla, 442, ^ Halab (Aleppo), 15, ry, 37-39. 4^, 78-80, 360-367, 384, wJ«. ; Kingdom of, 42 Halab as Saj(ir, 442 Kafar Halab, 447 Halba(Hisn), ^52, Halfa-reed (Papyrus?), 68 HalfabaltA, 447, ^^MJ^ Halhai {Halliul\ 442, J>ai^ Hamah (Hamat/i, Kpiphania), 37 578 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. 39i 78-81. 3';7-.^6o, .^64, a^; Kingdom of, ^ Kuriin Hamah, 359, tU*. Jabal al Hamal, J?^ Hisn al Hamam (Dove's Fort), 519. r^' <:x^ Tall Hamdfin, 543» or*-^ J? Himir, 44^1 Al Hammah (Hot baths near Tiberias), 335, ; at Maab, Hamm^ ad Damikir, 338, Hammam LulQ, 338, Hammam al Minjadah, 339, Hammam as Sawabi (the Boy's Bath), 500 HammOriyyah, 448. hjy^ Al Hamra, 444, 448, HamOs (Hisn), 543, sj^y*^ Hamzah, the Prophet's Uncle, mark of his shield, 179 Handiltha, 448, Hanind, 448, Hanjar (or Khanjar), 448. Al Hantalah, 534, iJ^Wi Harastd (i, Damascus), 237, 448 Harasta al Mantharah (2), 448, Harasta Halab), 448 Hisn al Harbadah, Haryadah 448. fi*>W^' Al Harbah, 448, Harbanafsa, 448, HarbanQsh, 448, J^y*j^ Harenc, 449 Harib, 449, Al Hdrith, or Harith al Jauldn, Harim, 2_L, M9j Harlan, 449, Harmaliyyah, 449, or al or Harran (r, Halab), 449, S'^t Harran (2, Damascus), 449 HarQn ar Rashid, Khalif, insti- tutes the 'Awasim Province and the 'i hughCir, 26 Al Har{miyyah (i). 27, 37, 38, 82, aMi 442j Al Hdruniyyah (2, of Mar'asb), 504 Al Hasa, 450, 461, I— «ll Hdshim ibn 'Abd Manaf, his Tomb, 442 Al Hatha, 450, W Hattawah, 450, e^Uft. Hattin, Hittin, or Hattim, 41^0, Al Haunah, 294, or l*y^^ Haurah, 451, ft;^ Haurdn (Auranitis), 32-34, 39^ 426. o';^ Haut, 451, 1-^ Al Hauzah, or Al Jauzah, 464^ Al Hawd, s^y^^ Al Hawiyyah, 2S2 Hawwar, or Huwwar (r, Halab), 451, M Hawwar (2, Manbij), 451^ Tall Hawwar {jn Hamah), 451 Hawwar (4, Jaihan), 45_i Hawwarah, Chalk-hills, 20 Al Hayydniyyah (or Al Hay- yanah), 452, A-iUaJ' Hebron, 41^ 164, 309 327 Hebron Gate (Jerusalem), 213 Helena, Empress, Church of, Heliopolis (Ba'alb«ikk), 1^ 19, 12i^41j58,6o,6i^25i8o, 29.'>-298, 380 Hermon, Mount, 7^ 418, 419 Herod's Gate (Jerusalem), 214. 7 INDEX. 579 Herod's Castle (Tiberias), .-^,^7 I Herodium, 440 \ Heshbm, 55, 456 Hil)al, ^ JU. Hibaran, 452, o'/^*- [5o<5 Hierapolis (Manbij), 36, 39, 42, Hieromax river (YarmCik), 31,. 42i 5ii 54» 430 1 Hijra, 452, trt— Hims (Emesa), Province or Jund of> 2L I5i 122 yf^V Kingdom of, 4^ ; Revenues of, 44-4S ; Town of, 78-82, 35.^-357 ; Lake of, 60, 61, 6q Al HimyariyyOn, 452, x^y.ji:*^^ Hinnion, Valley of, 2iS Hinzit, 4'; 2, Hippos, 422, 540, AI Hirr, Wadi, 346, «3i Al Hisa, 41, L-«Ji Hisban (Heshbon), 55^ 456, Hisham, Kbalif, builds Ar Rusafah, 432, 522 ; builds Minaret at Ar Ranilah, 305 Hisma, 4071 452, v,^— Al Hisn, or Hisn Adis, 452, ^j^iosf yj^a^ or Hisn al Ahmar (Athlith), 351, 380, 40.^, sj*^ Hisn al Akrad (Kala'at al Hisn, Crac or Krak des Chevaliers), 61,80, 3.S.'>> 451' ^' Hisn Baddaya, 502pii^ ^j^tk. Hisn ad Dawiyyah (Castle of the Templars), 442, iii i*^>aii or i^Ull Hisn Dhi-l Kula', for DhU Kila, 453, e^Ji for ^\ Hisn al 'Inab, 4.^3, Hisn KatarghOsh, 453, Hisn al KhawabI, 36, 80^ lili 485, ^'y^' c;-*^ Hisn Makdiyah, 453, S<afl« ,j-afi^ Hisn Mansdr, 26, 22, 454, Hisn Salman, 454, ^^j>^ Hisn at Tin&t, 39, 4li, Hisn az Zuhad (the Anchorites* Fort), 404, oU^i Hiyar of the Bani Ka'ki', 455, is*- Honey, 20, 541 Hot Baths and Springs of Tiberias, 334-341 HCid, the Prophet, Tomb of, 258, 264, 269^ 382 Al Hudaija, 455, HOlah (i^ District), 32, 34, 39, HQlah (2, Lake), 52>53>68, 455 Hulah (3, of Hims), 455 Al Humaimah, 455, i*-*^! Humrah, or Hummar, Asphalt, 64-66 Hunak, 4.t;6, J^J-f Hundurah, or Hindirah, 456^ HCinin, or Hunain, 418, 4.S6, Hurdufnah, 4^6, iiij'^ Hurdufnin, 456, ^^^^^ Hurdan, 456. p***^ Nahr HQrith, 62, Hurjalla, 4^6, V^j^ Husain, Grandson of the Prophet, his head preserved at Damascus, 236, 249, 270 ; his head once at Ascalon, 402 ; Oratory of, 431 Al Husainiyyah, 340 Husban (Heshbon), 55, 4^6, Al Huss, 4 t;6, ,^/a«Ji Al Husus, 4t;6, Huwairak, ^ 37—2 58o PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Huwwarain, or Huwwdrin (i, Halab), 79, 456, ^J^J^y^ Huwwarain [2^ Hims), 456, 481 Huwwdrain Tadnmr), 456 (see also under Hawwar) Ibahite Sect, 80, &i Ibn 'Abd Rabbih, his works, 4 Ibn BatCitah, his travels, \si Ibn Butlan and his works, 6 Ibn al Fakih, his geography, 4 Ibn Haukal, his geography, 5 Ibn Jubair, his travels, iJ Ibn Khurdddbih and his works, 2 Ibn Sinjil, Castle of, 350 Ibn TulQn builds the port at Acre, i2Sy. ; his Mosque at Cairo, <^ Ibn ash Shi'i (village of), 72, Ibn WAdhih and his works, 3 Nahr Ibrdhim, 56^ 498, ft^f!^ 'idhfi, or 'idhftn, 4s 6, o^*^ or Idrisi, his works, 1 Ifra, 452. Nahr 'Ifrin, 6oj 62^ ^Ii 71a 520, or /;^?//, 481^ 504 Ikam, 457, H^i Iliya (.^*Uia, Jerusalem), 84 Iliya, L^ih, 318 IHyls (Elias), Tomb of, 422 ; he is sent to Ba'albakk, 297 'Imm, 4S7. Al 'Inab, Hisn, 453, Indigo, 396, 3^ Inkila, dates called, 289 Innib, 4.S7, Irani, 452, Tram of the Columns, name of Damascus, 2^2^ 2^ 258, 265 Irbid, Irbil, or Arbid (Arbela), 45L Irbil, a name of Sidon, 458, J»> 'Irkah, or 'Arkah (Area), ^ 39, Jill ^-r* Al 'Irnas, 458, ^-r^^' ; Iron mines 410 Isaac, place of his sacrifice, 74, 512 ; his tomb, 309^ ^ii^ 317- IMi 111 Iskandariyyah (i^ near Hamah), 36, 31, 32, 380, 4i8, Iskandarunah (2, Alexandros- chene, near Acre), 351, 380, 458, Iskandarunah, or Iskandariyyah (3, Northern), 458 Islands opposite Tripoli, 350 Ismailians (Sect of Assassins), 22, 78, 81^ ;j52, 485, 502 Issachar, Tomb, 4^8 Istakhri, his geography, 5 Itursea (Al JaidQr), 34 'lydd ibn Ghanm, his Pool, 200, 2Q1 ; his Tomb, 356 Izbid, 45^ »v>' Ja'afar at Tayyar, Tomb, 479, ^10 Jaba Birak, 45^, ^ Jalxil Jaba', 75, ^ J-*- Al Jabal, 459, Jabal, the Mountains of Syria and Palestine, 72-82 Jabalah (Gabala, Gil)ellus major, or Zibel), 36, 3^ 57, 416, ^ *^ Al Jabah, 4t;9, cta>H fab'bok river (Zarka), 55, 3^ Al Jabbftl, 62, 460, Al Jabiyah, 32^ 33, T^Sh 4^ \Jahnch^ Jabneel^ or Jamnia (Vubna), 24, 28, 55^ Jacob, place of his Mourning, 412; his Dwelling-place, 465, 477, 482 ; his Tomb, 309, INDEX, ZlAi 3 '7-324. 327 ; his Well at Shechem, 511 Jadar (i, Hims), 429, 4^1. Jadar (2, Jordan Province), 54, 461 Jaday>'d, 461. JMiyah, 461, a^oU Jaffa, or Joppa (Yafah), 24, 28, ^ ^ 381, 550, Jaffa Gate, Jerusalem, 213-215, Al Jai, 461, ^?J» Al Jaidflr (Iturnea), tAi Nahr Jaihan (River Pyramus), 62, 505, 506, JairCin, son of Sa'ad, son of 'Ad, his palace at Damascus, 235, 461, OiJi^ Al Jalil, Jabal, 22, 1^ 390, 4^ Jalfld, 461, JalOlatain, 461, Al Jamahariyyah, 461, &i^U«»Si Al Jami', 461, Jamma'il, 462, Je»U*. Al Jamilah, 462, Jandarus (Gindarus), 462, Jarash (Gerasa) and Jabal Jarash, 30. 32, a^ii 3882 462, u*.^ Al JarM, 384, 462, Jarhah, 462, Al Jarmak, 56, 462, 524, J^j^l Jarmand, 462. Jamidnas, 463, ^j-^^j^ Al Jarr, ^ Jarud, 46^ s>^j^ Al Jashsh (Giscala), 463, Jasim, 46.^, ^ Jasmine Mosque, .^.^7 Jaubar, 46^ Jaulun (Gaulonitis), 32^ 34, 3^ Jabal al JaulAn, Al Jaumah, 294, Jaushan, Jabal, 6r, ^j^y^ J-e. Nahr al Jauz, 463, )>oJi ^ Al JauzAh, or Al Hauzah, 47, 464, Sij^t Jabal Jazin, 25> oi> ^ Iklim Jazin, 346, Al Jdzir, 464, y}^\ Al Jazr, 464, )yB^ Jericho (Ariha, or Rih5), 15^ 18, 28-32. 52, 288i 38I1 396 ; Water of7~2o, 396 Jericho Gate (Jerusalem), 213, 214 Jeroboam, 51^ Jerusalem : Absalom, so-called Tomb of, Aksa Mosque, 89-1 13, 178, 179 ; built by 'Abd al Malik, 90, 91, 98, 144 ; rebuilt by Al Mansflr and Al Mahdi, 92, 23 ; described by Mukad- dasi (in 985), ^8^ 93 ; de- scribed by NAsir-i-Khusrau (in 1047), 104-107 ; restored by Saladin, 109 ; Mihrabs in the Mosque, 1 1 1 ; later changes in the Mosque, i_l2 Al Aksi al Kadimah, the Ancient Aksa, 178, l&2 Altar of the Children of Israel, 131 Armoury of the Templars, 107, 1 10, 1 1 1. 178. 191 Bridge As Si rat, 162. 164, 165, 171, 11^ Cave of Abraham, 162 Cave under the Rock, 120, 123, 131, 132. 136 Cavern of Korah, 223 Church of the Ascension, 21 1, Church of Gallicantus (St. Peter), 2JL2 [131 Church of the Holy of Holies, PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Jerusalem (continued) : Church of the Jacobites, 211 Church of Pater Noster, 211 Church of the Resurrection, or of the Holy Sepulchre, not identical with the Dome of the Rock, iijr Church of the Resurrection, description of, ^8^ 141, 202-2TO ; destroyed by Al Hakim, 204 Church of Sion, 141, 203, 212 Colonnades of the Haram Area, 175-177, 190-192 Cradle of Jesus, 166. 182. 183, 2J_I Crusaders, their alterations in the Aks^, 107 David, Tomb of, 203 Dew fall at Jerusalem, 87 Dimensions of the Haram Area, 192-197 Dome of the Ascension, i2t. Dome of the Chain, 121, 123, Llli lii i45» »5i-i53» 156, 164 Dome of Gabriel, 121. 154 Dome of Jacob, 169, 176 Dome of Al Khidr, or St. George, 1 56 Dome of Moses, or Dome of the Tree, 169 Dome of the Prophet, or Dome of Muhammad, or Dome of the Prophet David, 121, 12^ 156^ 164, 170 Dome where the Prophet prayed, 164. 170 Dome of the Rock, qr, 99, to8, 114-137, 162 ; built by 'Abd al Malik, 115, 144 ; Jerusalem {continued) : services instituted there by the Khalif, and the tradi- tional account of, 144, 146 ; as described by Ya'kObi, 1 16 ; as described (903) by Ibn al Fakih, lza ; arrange- ment of piers and pillars, 121, 126 ; described (985) by Mukaddasi, i_23 ; de- scribed (1047) Nasir-i- Khusrau, 126-130 ; fall of the Great lantern, 1 30 ; described (11 2^) by 'Ali of Herat, 122 ; Saladin's re- storation of, 134 ; railing or grating round the Rock, ^33» '35 ; footprints on the Rock, the tongue, etc, 136 Dome of the Roll, 157, 170 Dome of Sulaiman, 156, 167, 169, 111 Dome of Zachariah, 169. 170. 177 Double Gate, ancient, L&2. Earthquakes in Jerusalem, q^i 98, mi £n Rogel^ 2ii Fertility of Jerusalem Terri- tory, 84, 85 Garden of Gethsemane, 203, 2_I_Q Garden of Joseph, zoS Garden of the Priests (Augus- tinian Friars), 131, 133 Gates of the Aksa Mosque, f 00- 1 03 Gates of the City, 212-217 Gates of the Haram Area, 173-189 I " Golden Gate," the, 184 Herod's Gate, 214, 2^6 Holy Fire, Miracle of, 2o8» 209 INDEX, 583 Jerusalem {continued) : I House of the Priests (Augus- 1 tinian Friars), 131, 133 Inscriptions in the Aksa, 102, ICQ, 161 Inscriptions in the Dome of the Rock, 119, 125, 134 j Inscriptions on Wall of Haram Area, im | Al Khidr (Ellas, St. George), his Gate, 164 ; his house, 185 ; his praying-place, 164. Maksurahs in the Aksa or Haram Area, 100, 161, 163 Maristan (or Bimaristan, Hospital) at Siloam, z2jl . Mar>', Mother of our Lx)rd, ! Tomb of, 210, 219 ; Spring of, I Mihrdb of David in the' Haram, 167, 168, 171, 213 | Mihr^b of David in the Castle, lin Mihrib of Jacob, 162, 164, i^Si III I Mihrab of Mary, 1 64- 1 66 Mihrab of Mu'dwiyah, 106, Mihrib of 'Omar, 102. 106, LJ_l Mihrdb of Zachariah, 1 1 1, 161, 164-166, 170 I Minaret of Abraham, 164, LLL Minarets of the Haram Area, 148. 170 Names of Jerusalem, 83, 84^ Olives, Mount of, ^ 24? '62, 2_LI_, 218-22Q Omar, Khalif, builds the AksA, | 90, £1 ; his Mosque (so- called) in the Aksa, 112: conquest of Jerusalem and rusalem (continued) : finding of the Rock, tradi- tional account, 139-144 Pilgrimage to Jerusalem, 8S Place of the Ant, of the Fire, and of the Ka'abah, 165, Hi Plain of the Sahirah, 216. 218- Platform and Stairways of the Dome of the Rock, 157- l6q Pools of the Children of Israel, of 'lyad, and of Solomon, 200, 2S11 Pool of Mamilla, 201. 202 Price of provisions, 82 The Rock, 112, 129, 132 ; Omar's re-discovery of, 1 39- 144 (and see Dome of the Rock) Servants of the Aksd Mosque, 148, 149, 163, 165 Siloam, Pool of, or Spring, 74, 162, 179, 212, 220, 223 Siloam, Hospital at, 2ji± Single Gate, Ancient, LS2 Solomon's Pools in Wadi Urtas, 197 Stables of Solomon, 166, 183 Station of Gabriel, 121, 154, xj)^ i65i LTo Station (Makdm) of Khidr, \2U 164, 165, £20 Station (Makam) of the Proi)het, 1^ St Lazarus Postern, 214, 215 St. Mary's Church "p" Justinian), 30, 143 St. Stephen's Gate, ancient and modern, 213, 215 Sulaiinan, son of the Khalif 'Abd al Malik, his bath, 146 584 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Jerusalem (continued) : Talisman in Aksa Mosque, 100 Tanks (water-) in Jerusalem, 148, 158, 197-202 Templar's Armour}' in the Aksa Mosque, 107, no, LLii 1181 Templum Domini and Tem- plum Salomonis, 107, ijo Territory of the Holy City, Throne of Jesus, t6q Throne of Solomon, 164. 167, 165, 122 Trade of Jerusalem, l8 Triple (»ate, Ancient, 1&2 Tying-place of Burak, 162. 163, 171. 187 Wadi Jahannum, 218-330 Water-supply, 20^ 2<^ Well of job, 220, 22.^ Well of the Leaf, 198-200, 292 Jesus Christ and the Antichrist, Jesus, bom in Bethlehem, 299 ; or in Eg) pt, .^00 ; or at Nazareth, ; His preaching in Jabal Jalil, ; His hill at Damascus, 235, 240^ 253 His baptism in the Jordan, 42S ; place of His sojourn, 420; His prophecy concerning the (lhautah, 424 : He is taken down into Eg>pt, 301 ; His spring at Tiberias, 339 ; and the Dyers, Ston,* of, 339 ; Transfiguration of, 434 Jethro (Shu'aib), Tomb of, 341, MAi 445, 45o» 45L ii22 ""Vjews, the assayers, dyers, bankers, and tanners, in Syria, Jews' Quarter in Jerusalem, 215 Al Jib, 464, Al Jibal District (Gebalene), 28^ Jibrin (i). ^ ^^i^ Jibrin f27of the Ghaur), j2 Jidya, 461, ^^^e- Al Jifar District, 28-30, 41^ Jillik, name of Damascus, 258, 265, Jinan al Ward, 277 Jinin (Ginea, Engannim\ 41, 4641 eT^*?" Jintha, 464, ^ Jirar, 464^ )y> Al Jismaniyyah (Gethsemane), 203, 210, it»U— Al Jisr al Hadid (the Iron Bridge), 6q Tisral Majami', 53, 335,^lsyJi^>^ Jisr Manbij, 501, 531 Jisr as Sidd, 33s Jisr al Walid, 505 Jisr Yaghra, 551 Jisr Ya'kiib, (see also under Bridge) Jisrain, 464* sd^rf^ Al Jiyyah, 464, Job, Monastery of, 427 ; his countr)', and village, 515, 516 ; his Well (Jerusalem), 220-223 John the Baptist, Convent of, at the place of the baptism of Jesus, 428^ his head preser%ed at Damascus, 234, 236, 2 3 8, 2 S2, 264 ; his beard preserved at Aleppo, 365 ; Tomb oC 523, -S37 Jonah, or Jonas, Tomb of, 447, 469 Joppa (see Jaffa) Jordan River (Al Urdunn), 42, 5 2-.; 4, 65, 67, 68 ; Sources of 418 INDEX. 58s Jordan Province, 22^ 30-32, 39 ; Revenues of, 44-48 Joseph, Tomb of, at Balatah, 416 ; Tomb of, at Ndbulus, ,Si2 ; Tomb of, at Hebron, ZlAi 1192 125 Joseph's Fit (see Jubb Yflsuf) Joshua, l omb of, 3^7^ 404, 4^, 531 ; Shrine of, 423 Jubail (r, Gcbal, Biblos, Giblet), 2tli i5i» 4641 ^ Al Jubail (2j Hims), 465 MdhQz Jubail, 465 Tall Jubair, S43. J* Jubb al Kalb (the Dog's Pit), 466, Jubb YOsuf (Joseph's Fit), 419, 465, 4I2i SUl 538, Al Jubbah, 466, Jubbah 'Usail, 466. J-—* Judah, Tomb of, 341, ^21 J(idi, Jabal, 2^2 Julaijal, 466, JofiU Julbat, 4661 Jum'. 466, Al JQmah, 36^ 60, 466, t;2o, JCimah 'Akkar, 352, Jdmah Bashariyyah, 352, Jumraya, 58, ie'^ JQn, JGniyyah, 32, 466^ i^ys- Al Jurjumah, 467, JOsiyah (Paradisus), 3^ 40, 427, 467. Juzaz, or Jizaz, 467, '/j^ Ka'ab al Ahbar, or Al Hibr, the converted Jew, 142, 293 ; his Tomb, 272 Kab, 41^ K abb-measure (Cab, the Greek Kabos), 48 An Nahr al Kabir, 60, KabOl (Cabul), 15, 3^ 289, 467, Kab(in, 467. Kabflr, 467, Kadam Kuraish, "Kuraish-bite," a sweetmeat, 17 Kadas (r, Kadesh Naphthah\ 15, 18, 20, 53, 38r, 462^ ^J*^'y I^ke of (HCllah), 52, Kadas (2, near Hims), I^ke of, 60, 61, 69, 468 Kadas Kadesh Barnea)^ 30 Al KadmOs, Hisn, 3^2, 507, Al KadQm, 468, (v^^iii Al K^f, 468, ^J^\ Kafar, or V' illage, 468 Kafar 'Akib, 468, wJU> ^ Kafar 'Amma, 468, Up >^ Kafar Barik, 468, ^i/. Js^ ' Kafar Basal, 469, J-v ^ I Kafar Batnd, 46(2, LJ«» ^ ' Kafarbayya, 505-507, U Jt£ Kafar Dubbin, 469, yjt*^ ^ Kafar (ihamma, 469, ^ Kafar Ha lab, 447 Kafar Kannah (Cana of Galilee), , 469, (or Kafar Kila (1^ 346, X-i^ ^ I Kafar Kila (2}, 470, M >^ Kafarla. 419, , Kafar Lab, 470, ^ ! Kafar I^hthd. 420, Kafar Latha, 420^ Kafar Mandah, 470, ' Kafar Muthri, 470, ^ Kafar Nabu, 470, ^ Kafar Naghd, 471* ^ . Kafar Najd, 471, »^ j Kafar Natha, 550, ^J*^ I Kafar Rinnis, 47 1, ^ Kafar Runia, 42 r, ^ 586 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Kafar Sal)a, ^ UL- ^ Katar Salldni, 471, fX^ ^ Kafar Sabt, 471, >•» ^..^ ^ Kafar SOsiyyah, 2:^7, Kafar Sut, 472. ^ Kafar Tab, 15^ 39, 42^ Kafar Takis, 47;^, <j-><ii Kafar Tdtha, ^j^^, >^ Kafar Zinnis, 471 Kafari)Tah, ^^2^, Kafiz, measure, ^ 50 Kahaian. 47.^, AI Kahf. Hisn, 86^ 352, 507 AI Kaibar, 47^ Al Kaik, Jabal, 78 Kailajah, measure, 48, 50 Kaim al Hirmil, 60, J*^» KaimOn, 473, ot*^ Kainiyah, 47^. 472, 4Ii Kai&ariyyah (Ca.»sarca Palestina), 41i l80j 424i or Kaisariyyah, or Covered Market, Kaisiim, 408, 475, t*y^ Kaiiiik, 444, Kakhtil, 475, Kakun, 475. o>»^ Al Kal'ah, ^ &«ifiJ» Kala'ai Ai)i-1 Hasan, 47^ Kalaat Daushar, or Dftshar, and Kala'at Ja'bar, 417 Kala'at an Najm, 27, ^ =501 Kala'at ar Ruhad, ^ " Kala'at ar Rflm, 22^^8,42^ 47«; Kala'at Sanir, 28 Kala'at at Tin, 539, ^^^i KalaniOn (Calamos), 350, 476, alamyah, 476, tnsuwah (Castle of Plans), 6} S^~~ii» Nahr al Kalb (the Dog River), ^ Lycus, 56, ^ Kalends, Festival of the, 2jl Kalikala, 28 Al Kallasah (the Lime-kiln) Mosque, 247, 264, 4-1531 Al Kalt and the Well of the Leaf, 198, 292, wbJali KalOdhiyah, 4^6, Kamakh, 38^ Kdmid al Lauz, 33. 347, j^Ul Kammona, 473 I Kamraw, 476, I Kan'dn, Jabal and Wadi, ' 462, i22i SlAi iNahr al Kanat, or al Kanawai, 58? ^ 2^ 266, ^ Kaninah, 2':;9 Al Kanisah, 477, &..j,;.'Oi Kanisah al Kayamah, or al Kumimah (Church of the Holy Sepulchre), 58. ijj^ 202- 210, i*Ufi3l or Kanisah Kuds al Kuds, 131, Kanisah Salik (Church of the Ascension), 2 1 i, 2 1 8, Al Kanisah as Sauda, 22, 37, 477^ lo^l A,^yLCi Kanisah Sihydn, 141, 203, 212, Kanisah as Sulh, 478, jUSi Kanisah at TQr (Church of Sinai), ^261 Kanisah al Yughibiyah (Church of the Jacobites), zvu Kantarah Si nan, 478, Al KAnfin, 428, or^' Kanwa, 58^ \yi Al Kara, or Al Karah (Chara), 36, 428^ or *>ai Kara Hisir, 4^ i INDEX. . . 587 Kara Sou, River, 60, 62 Karad^ 479, Karahta, 479, Al Karak (i> Crac, or Krak, Petra Deserta), 290, 479, -si;^'; Kingdom of, 41 [Noah), 480 Al Karak NCih (2, Karak of Al Karak, or Kark Q)j 480 Karatayya, ^ 480. W*/ Karawa, 5^ 4S0, ^^9^^ Karawi Bani Hassan, 480 Kariyat al 'Inab {A'irj'af/i Jearim\ 306, 480, •-.u«Jl 1*,^ Kariyat al 'UyOin {IJon\ 481, Al Kariyatain, ^ l6j 22i 481. Karkar, 481, j^/ Al Kar'fin, 481^ oy»^' Karn al Hamirah, 481, a^Wi ^^ji Kashafrid, 481, o< Kashfahan, 5^ 54^ J^f^tS Nahr al Kdsimiyyah (Litany River), 56 Jabal KasiyOn, or Kasiydn, 58^ 8oj 252, 252, 222, 482, Kasr Bani 'Omar, 482 Kasr Bint al Malik (Herod's Castle, Tiberias), ^ Kasr Haifa, 446, 482 Kasr Hajjaj, 482 Kasr Umm Hakim, 482 Kasr Ya'kab, jj, 482 Kasrain, 417 Kasrain ath Thaniyah, 42^ Jabal Kasriiwdn, 5^ 80, i^^^ ^um^ ^^^^^ Al Kastal (V, Hims), ^6, Al Kastal (2, Balka), 48.^ Katand, 48^, U-» Katarghflsh, Hisn, 453, Katt, 48.^, Kaukab, 483, ^r^y^ \ Kaukabd, 237, Al Kawathil, 48^ JSl^Ol Kawfis, 483, ^j*y^ Al Kayyar, 484, Kazirtm (for Karizim, Gerizim)^ ^ 484, ^M, ^ r^.^./ Kedron Valley, 2 18-220 Al Khadrd, Palace at Damascus, 229, 231, 232, 234, 2^8, 245, 248. 270. Khadhkadunah, Khalka- dOnah, w^^xcid., KiiankhadO- nah, or Al Ghadka- dCinah, 484, Khairan, 484, Al Khait, 484, Jabal al Khait, 81^ 421. Al Khalasah (Elusa), 30, fi-U)» Khalid ibn al Wdlid, his spear at Damascus, 264, 270 ; his Tomb, 355, ^ Al Khalij, Meadow of, 503 Al Khalil, "the Friend," Abraham, 310 Jabal al Khalil, 56, J-Wi ^ Al Khalfis (Lyssa), 30, ^ja^i Khammdn, 484, Jabal al Khamr, 24j J?^ Khan as Sultan, 484, o^^' Al Khanikah, 484^ i&t»Ji Khanjar, or Hanjar, 448 Kharanba, 48s, Al KharrCibah, 485, Al Khashbiyyah, 485, ft,'i*4» Hisn al Khawdbi, 36, 39, 80. 152, 485, sS^'^' Al Khidr (Elias, or St. George), Spring of, 5^2 ; Station of, «64i 165^ 253 ; Chapel of, 264 ; House of, 185 Khisfin, 48t;, ^^0—=^ Khiyarah, 451, 588 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Khumaruwaih, Ruler of Egypt, Al Khundsirah, zSi Z9i 49i 3^ Khurbat al 'Al, Khusaf, 485, Khusail, 486, Js— Al Khus(is, 505, Khuwailifah, 486, ial*^ Kiblah, meaning of term, qjf' The first Kiblah, 114, 130, 158 i Tall al Kikan, 54^ o"^> J»" Kila' ad Da'wiyah (the Castles of the Assassins), 352, gii Killiz, 486, >i5 or jSy Kin'an (Canaan) Valley, 419, 462, 42L Slii Kinnasrin (Chalcis), 486, vji^r—^ 5 Province (Jund) instituted by Mu'awiyah, 25, 2^ 35, 42, 43, 360 ; Revenues of, 44-48 AT/V Moab^ 479 Kirdt (Carat), weight, 48-50 hirjath jearim^ 306, 481 Kirmil Mount Carmel), 446. 481, Kirmil (2, of Judea), 487 Kisa, shirt, 2^ Kist, measure, 43, lAi Al Kiswah, or Al Kuswah, 488. Jabal al Kiswah, 424 Korah, and his Companions, Cavern of, 223 Al Kubaibah. 488^ «i*L--fiJi Kubakib (_ii of Damascus), 488. River Kubakib (2^ Malatyah), 4881 422 Kubbait, sweetmeat, 16. 18, 2^ Kubbat al Khaznah (Dome of the Treasury, Damascus Mosque), 227, 240, 246, Kubbat al Mi'raj (Dome of the Ascension, Haram Area, Jerusalem), 121, 123, 154- Kubbat an Nabi (Dome of the Prophet, Haram Area, Jere- salem), 121, 123, 154, 1^6, 164, LZOi Kubbat an Nasr (Dome of the Eagle, Damascus Mosque), 243, _ 244j 256, 263, Kubbat an Nasr (Dome of Victory, on the Horns of Hattin), 4t^i, M Kubbat an Naufarah (Dome of the Fountain, Damascus Mosque), 247. 268, M Kubbat ar Rasas (Dome 01 Lead, Damascus Mosque), 243, 244, 256, 263, M Kubbat as Sakhrah (Dome oi the Rock, Haram Arei Jerusalem), ^ 108. i u 137. i44> 162, tjA^y i-i Kubbat as Silsilah ( Dome of the Chain, Haram Area, Jeni salem), 121^ 12^ U^^^j^' Kubbat Zain al 'Abidin (Dama* cus Mosque), zfi^ Kudamah and his works, ^ Kudharan, 488, ob'»** Al Kuds (2> Jerusalem), 83 Al Kuds (2, Nabulus), 512 KQfa, or Bait Kufa, 488, KuUah, 524, ^ Kulbain, 488, v^^s-J^ Kumamah,for Kaydmah (Chun t of the Resurrection, Jerj salem), 202 INDEX. 589 KOm Zanjil, 498, f^y^ Kunaikir, 488. Al Kur; £/J> Al Kurah, ^52, £;/Ji Al Kurain (Montfort), 495, " Kuraish-bite," sweetmeat, 161 n Kurdn, 489, Al Kurashiyyah, ^ 489^ i*4./Ji Kurkus (Corycos), 489, Kdrus (Cyrrhus), ^ 380, 498, u*;y or Kur/dhil, 489, Ja-')^ Al Kusair [i^ Damascus), 489, Al Kusair (2^ Halab), 81^ 489 Kusair Mu'in, 490, ^js»^ ji-^ KCisin, 490, Kusiyan, the King, his Church at Anlioch, 37 1 KustOn, 490, oy*-* Al Kuswah, or Kiswah, 424, 488, Al Kutayyifah, 490, Nahr Kuwaik (River Chalus).6i, 361, 363. 482^ Ji^ > Al Kuwainisah, 490, Al Ladhikiyyah (i, l^odicea ad Mare), ^ 3S), 82, j8o, j8^ 490-49 J, M>>^' Al Ladhikiyyah (2^ I^odicea Combusta, Ladik), 2^ Jabal I^ilun, or LailQl, 492, or 03^ ^ Nahr I^aita, or I^itah (Litany River), 56, M or *J--J Al I^jah, or Al Lija (Tracho- nitis), ^ 4^ ^Q2, ioiil Al Lajjun (i^ Legio, Megiddo?), LSi 28, tLLi 38o» 492, Al Lajjun (2, Bvilka), 493 Al lajjun (j, Kinnasrin), 493 Lakes of Syria and Palestine, 64-72 I^rissa (Shaizar), 36^ 80, -^60, Latmin, 493, Lawi (Levi), Tomb of, 493 I^zarus, Tomb of, 211, 405 Leah, Tomb of (Liya, Lika, Iliya), ^ iiSj 320, J2I, m Lebanon Mountain (Jabal Lub- nan, or Libnan), ^ 36^ 4^ 56. 77-7Q, M Legio (see lajjun) Leontes River, or Litany, 56, 386 Lettuce, l6 Levi, Tomb of, 493 Al Libwah, 6r, S^t Locust-tree (Carob), i6j 514 Lot, his escape from Gomorrah, f^qi ; the two daughters of, 2882 £92 Lot, Cities of, 28^ 286 292, 510 ; Tomb of. 468, 552 ; Stones of, 289, 290 ; I^ke of (the Dead Sea), 64 Ludd (Lydda), 28, 30^ 49 3i ^ LukkAm, Jabal, 60, 78-82, 377, 378. Lukman (.Esop), the Sage, his Tomb, 3^ Lulijah, 494, Byy LOturiis. 5_i_8 • Lycus River, 56 Maab (Rabbath Moab), i^^ 12, 3(i, 3S1, ^ 4^ Ma'ahya, 49';, M** Ma'arrah an- Xu'man, 49'>-497, Ma'arrah Kinnasrin, Masrin, or S90 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Nasrin, 36, ^fii 4£1, ^ i^.r^ or tjij— • ,v:>ir-^ *^ ' Machpelah, Visits to the Cave of, at Hebron, 3j_2 Al Madain, 497. ^ji**^' Midhanat al 'Arus (Minaret of the Bride), 2.^0, 247 Madhanat 'Is^ (Minaret of Jesus), 254, 25^ 264 I Al Madhanat al Gharbiyah , (the Western Minaret, Dam- ascus Mosque), 269 Al Madurah, ^ ij^^ Madyan (Midian), 3^ 23i 470» ^ mi v:^ I Magh^r, 498, Magharat al Arwah (Cave of the Souls), 1.^2 Magharat al Jau' (Cave of Famine), 25^, 482 Magharat ar Rdhib (Cave of the I Monk), 6q Maghrah, red chalk called /^u- 1 Mra Sinopicay 15, 20. 423 Maghrah (village of), 4g8, Al Maghzalan, 61^ o^j^* Mahd 'Isa (Cradle of Jesus, at Jerusalem), 166. 182, 183, Al Mahdi, Khalif, rebuilds the Aksa Mosque, ^2, 93 ; restores the Mosque at Ascalon, 401 MahmCid II., SulUn of Turkey, his Inscription in the Dome of the Rock, 135 Mahrfibah, 498, hyj^ Al Mahiiz, 42?» Mahuz Azdud, 24 Mahflz Jubail, 46. S, 498 Mahfiz Yubna. 24 Maida'a, 4q8. Maifa'ah, 498, Maimas (or Mimas) Maiuma, or Majuma of Gaza, 508, ^U--» Maimds, Name for the Oronles, 52 Al Mainakah (Hisn), 352, 507f Al Maitdr, 498, Al Majami', Jisr, £2, 335. Al Majdal, or Majdal Salam, 498, (X. Jo«w« or Majdaliyabah, 56, 498, i*Uu«w» Majuma, 508 Makad, Makdiyah, or Makadd, 4^ 422, OS- Makam GhQri, Makim an Nabi, Makdm Shami, Makim Sharki, Makkah Sand, 446 Makkflk Measure, 48, 50 Makna (Midian), 49S Makrd, 499, s^/^ An Nahr al Maklfib (i, Orontes), An Nahr al MaklQb (2, Halys), Malatyah (Melitene), Malatiyyah, or Maltaya, 26, 27, 38, 63, 78, Ma'laya, 500, M** Mall, Game of, 255 Malban, sweetmeat, 20^ 396, Ml Al Malikiyyah, Al Mallun, Mallus, Malo, 62, Ma'lCila, 500, sy*- Mamilla, Pool of, 201, 202, Mamistrd, 506, i^^U MamrCy si8 Al M^mfin, Khalif, his Inscrip- tion in the Dome of the Rock, 1 19 ; his Gate in the Aksa Mosque, 102 ; his Tomb, 378, 402 INDEX. 591 Al Ma'mQriyyah, 506, &4;^*«JI Manbij (Hierapolis), 36. 39^ 42, 500, Jisr Manbij (Kala'at an Najm), 27, 42, 501 Mandrake, fruit of, iS Manin, 502, Mannagn, 502? 6^ Mansio Platanus, 416 Mansftr, Hisn, 26^ 27, 454 MansQriy)'ah (H amah), ^53, :^6o Mar Jirjis, 57 M4r Samvvil, 4.^^^ Marakiyyah, 352, 395, 400, 502, Mar'ash (Germanicia), 27, 37- 32, 63,82, 502, Mara s id al Jttildy the author of, 9 Ma'rathA, 503, Marble Quarries, 20^ 307, 491 MarbO', 503, Marda, 503, Marimin, 503, Maristan (or Bimaristan, Hos- pital), at Antioch, ^21 5 Damascus, 255 ; at Siloam, 2_2_L Marj (Meadow of) 'Adhra, ^03, Marj al Ahmar. dl Marj al Atrakhun, 503, Marj Dabik, 503, ^y^o c/* Marj al Khalij, 503, g-UJi Marj Rahit, 6^ 503, Marj as Su/far, 504, /t^^ C/* Marj 'Uyiin (or 'AyyQn), ^ 504, o>*«» Marja', a Land Measure, 243 Hisn al Markab (Castrum Merghatum, Margat), 504, Al Marra, Pass, 1^38, ^j*^^ Al Marrdt, 505t ^9/^ Al Martflm, 310, 319, r^*/^' Al Marwani, 503 Mary, the Mother of Our Lord, Churches dedicated to, at Tor- tosa, 395 ; at Antioch, 368 ; at Damascus, 254, 264 ; Tomb of, at Jerusalem, 210. 219 ; Tomb of, at Nazareth, 301 ; Picture of, 427 ; Spring of, i2Q [476 Marzuban River, I,e Marquis, Al Masdaf, 505, »_*a-»4Ji Al Mash'ar, 505, yt^^' Jabal Mashghara, 56, 342, S^Si Al Masjid al Abyad (the White Mosque at Ar Ramlah), 304- Al Masjid al Aksd (Jerusalem), 89-113, 178. 179, Masjid al Ghauth (Mosque of Succour), 365 Masjid Ibrahim, or Hebron, 164, Masjid Uriya (Mosque of Uriah), Masjid al Yakin (the Mosque of Certainty), 5.si> er^' * Masjid-i-Yasmin (the Jasmine Mosque), 3^ Ai Massissah (i,Mopsuestia), 26, 2i 37. 62, 6^ 82^ 505, &-c-»J« Al Massissah (2^ Damascus), 507 Masyab, or Masyaf, 80, Sr, 352, 5o7> or wU** A I Masiyah, so7> Al Mas'udi, his history, 4 Al MatirOn, 508, o^>^' Al MatlQn (Hebron), 310, o^*** Nahr al Maujib (Arnon), 55 592 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. Mauzar, so9> hy* Mayan ij, t;o8, Hisn al Mazdasiyyah, or Al Muradisiyyah, 508, olj^Jlor , Al Maziman, soS, o^)^' ' Measures of Capacity and Length, j Megiddo (Al Lajjfin), 1 1^, 28, :^9, 41, 380, 492 ' Melitene (Malatyah), 26^ 22, ^ 6^28 , Merghatum, Castrum, 504 Merom, Waters of (Hulah), 52^ 53, 68. 455 Midian, ^ l^l ! Mihraj, 5^8, ^j*^ I Minarets of the Aksa Mosque at . Jerusalem, 148, 170 Minarets of the Damascus Mosque, 2.^0, 246, 2t;4, 264^ 269 Minaret where Jesus will de- scend, 254, 255^ 264. Minarets built s(juare in Syria, zi Mihrab or Prayer Niche, Mean- ing of the term, Mihrab Da Qd in the HaramArea, 167, 1681 L2Jj Mihrab DaCid in the Castle of Jerusalem, lAi Mihrab al Khidr (Elias, or St. George), 164, 165 Mihrab Mariyam (of Mary), 164- 166 Mihrab Mu'awiyah, 106, 1x1 Mihrab 'Omar, 102, 106. i±i Mihrab Ya'kfib (of Jacob), Ld2, 164, 165, 171 Mihrab Zakariy yd, 1 1 1. 161, 164- 166, 1 70 Miknd, 1^08, Ui. Mile, Arab, 45 Mimas (or Maimas), 24, 39 ; of Ghazzah, 508, ,^r'W* Mimas (or Maimas), Convent of, Al Mimas (Orontes), ^ Mirabel, Castle of, 472 Al Mizzah, 237, 272, 508, Nahr al Mizzah, 235, ihfi Mogrebin, or Dung Gate of Jeru- salem, 214. 215 Monastery (see under Dair) Montfort, 495 Months, Solar, in use among the Syrians, zi Montreal (Le Crac, Petra Deserti), 4^1 47Q Mopsuestia (Al Massissah), 26. 2LaL38i62,63,2^&2,5o5 Mosaic work at Damascus, 228- 230, 241, 262, 268 ; at Jeru- salem, 124 Moses, 2^ ; Death of, 5^ ; Tomb of, 240 ; Rock of, 264, 369> 37o» 54^ 55o. iii ; Rock he struck, 470, 497 ; marks of his footsteps, 2 S4 ; at Sinai, 542 Mosque, or " Masjid," Technical meaning of the term. 94-97 Mosque, Aksa, 89-1 1 3, i 78, 1 79 Mosque of Cordova, 103 Mosque of Ibn TQlOn at Cairo, Q4-97 Mosque of 'Omar, in the Aksa at Jerusalem, 112; at Ascalon, 402 Mosque of Omayyads at Damas- cus, 227-229, 232-234, 238, 2 6_2^ Mosque, The White, at Ramlah, 303, 305 Mosques, Peculiarities of, in Syria, zi Mount Ebal and Gerizim, 7^ INDEX. 593 Mount Hor, 22 Mount of Olives, 2I1 lA 162, 2 1 1, 218 220 Mount Sinai, ^ 547 Mount Tabor, 2^ 434 Mountains of vSyria and Pales- tine, 72-82 Al Mu'atham (Sultan al Malik), his fortress on Mount Tabor, 15. Mu'^n, or Ma'dn, ^ t;o8, Mu'awiyah, Khalif, institutes the District of Kinnasrin, 25 ; his Expedition against Amorium, 37 ; makes Damascus his capital, 225, 232 ; his palace of the Khadra, 229, 231, 232, 2^ 245» 248, 220J buried at Damascus, 234, 272 Mudi, a measure (Modius), 48- Al Mudir, Spring of, 500 [50 Al Mughattd, the Covered part, or Main building, of a Mosque, Al Muhajjah, 509, AasayJl Muhammad, the Prophet, his Night Journey, tradition of, 89 ; his sojourn at Bostra, 426, 428 ; his Mantle pre- served, 384 ; his Platter pre- served, 22 ; Prayer Station of, and Dome in the Haram Area, 121, i2i, 1^6, 164, 170 Muhammad ibn Kala'Qn, Sultan, his Inscription in the Dome of, the Rock, Al Muhammadiyyah, 444, 509, Muhbil, 509. J-a>« Mujir ad Din, his Works, i_2 Al Mukaddasi, his Geography, 5 Mukis, 509, ij^-^ Mukhadat al Alawi, the Ford of the Alide, 444 Mukra, 2c;q, ^^Jim Al Muktadir-billah, Khalif, his • mother's gift of a gate to the I Dome of the Rock, 123 j Hisn al Mulawwan, so6, 509, I Mflmiyd, or Asphalt, 64-66 ! Al Munaitirah, t;o9, tj^t^^ Munayyir, cloth, 15 ; Hisn Mflrah, 509, ijy Muri, or Muria Sauce, 212 Murran, t;o9, ^^'/^ ^ Al MGtafikah, £10, ISUSy^) Mutah, 4J, 509, isy Al Muthakkab, sio» ^■t'OHJH '* Muthiral Ghirdm" the author of — two works, 11 Nabak, or Nabk fruit, l8 Nabi Samwil, 433 An Nabk, 51 oJUii* Nabtal, 511, J?-* Nabulus (Neapolis, Shechem), 28-3o> 39i4L 380, u-^^; water of, 20, 511-514 Nahlah (the Bee), 514, Nahr, the Rivers of Syria, 52- 64 An Na'im, 3'>2, ^UJl Hisn an Na'imah, 5 1 4, An Nairab, or An Nirdb, 235, 222, 5.142 ^-r^J' Nakab 'Azib, 515, s^)l» Nakab Shitdr, 515, An Naml, Wadi, 402. 403, 413, 540, J^' Naphthali, Tomb, 470 Naslbin, 515, s^yt^ Nasir-i-Khusrau, the traveller, his Diary, 6 An Ndsirah (Nazareth), 301, Nawa (Neve), 515, y 38 >94 PALESTINE UNDER THE MOSLEMS. An Nawakir, j^y^ Nawarza, ^ 0;^^ Nawaz, >iy Nazareth, .^oi Neapolis, Shechem (see Nibulus) Neho, 42©, 411, 5^ NibtOn, 516, oy*«» Nihlin, 516, Nikinnis, ^id^ ^j-^ Nil, Indigo, 236, ^^2 Ninirod (Nimrtd ibn Kfish), 732 Nimrin, or Nimra, 33 Noah, his dwelling-place, 2I ; at Damascus, 2^ ; enters the Ark, 386 ; tomb of, 316, 422, 480 Nob, 415 An Nukhail, 516, An Nu'man ibn Bashir, tomb, An Numrdniyyah, 516, Nusair, and the Nusairiyyah Sect, 781 460 Jabal an Nusairi>7ah, 25i 35 Jabal Nusrah, 309, J-e. Oak tree, called Tree of the Balance, 412 Olive tree, on Mount Sinai, 23 Olives first planted, at Hims, Olives, Mount of, 72^ 74, 162, 2_iij 218-220 Olives, Mount of, at Nabulus, S13 'Omar Khalif builds a Mosque at Jerusalem, ^ ; his con- quest of Jerusalem, and find- ing of the Rock, 139-144 ; Injunction as to the position of the Aksa, 55 \ Monument of, at Gaza, 442 Omar ibn 'Abd al Aziz, Khalif, and the Great Damascus Mosque, 229, 242, 263, 265 ; his Mosque at Damascus, 249, 270 ; his Palace, 251, 257, 271 ; his tomb, 432 434, ; finishes Ramlah Mosque, 303 Omayyad Mosque at Damascus, 227-229, 232-234, 238, 241- 252, 267-272 Omayyad Khalifs, their Tombs, Orange culture in Syria, ij Orontes river, 59-61, 70, 72, 35-4-.>^^°^ 115.385 Othman, Khalif, his almshouse at Jerusalem, 2^ ; his Kuran at Damascus, 248. 264, 269 Orthosia, 350 Oune (of Ptolemy), 382 Ovens used by the Syrians, 23 Overwhelming I^ke, the Dead Sea, 64_ Pagne (Baghras), 322 3§2 42, 21i 402 Palaistina, prima, secunda and tertia, 26 Palestine (see Filastin) Palm tree of Jesus at Bethle- hem, 298, 300 Palm>Ta (Tadmur), LSi 3S» 3^1 322 540-542 Paneas (Baniyas), LS, 34i 32? 380, 418 Paper, manufacture of, Papyrus, 68 Paradisus (JQsiyah), 3^ 40, 427, 467 Paran, 7^ 440, 522 Pavement of the Mosques in Syria, 2J |Pclla(Fahl), 380, 439 Petra (Wadi Musa), 548 \ Petra, not Ar Rakim, 222 INDEX. 595 Petra Deserti (Crac), 47Q Petra Incisa, 40:^ Pharaoh's Garden at Bairdt, 400 Pharaoh's Cap at Jerusalem, 218-219 Philadelphia ('Amman), 1^ 18^ 22, 12, ^ 39, 4L 379, 39 » -393 Phcenicia Prima et Secunda, 26 Pitch- wells, 423 Plague of 'Amwds, 394 Platanus, Mansio, 416 Pliny, his canal at Damascus, 2M; said to have built Paneas, il2 Podendon, 407 Poilike, 509 Pomegranates of Harim, 449 Pools (see under Birkat) Port of Acre, 328 Port of Tyre, 344 Porta Aurea, Golden Gate of Jerusalem, 184 Porta Speciosa, 215 Products peculiar to Syria, l6 Prune called At Tarl, 16 Ptolemais (Acre), ^ Z9i 41, 328-334, m. Pyramus river (Jaihan), 62^ 505, 506 Rabab, 527, Rabad ad Darain, 517, ^^^^ Ra'ban, ^ ^ Ar Kabbah, 495, Ar Rabbah, for Ar Rayyah (Rabbetha), 288, 291, 292, iij for i^j Rabbath Amnion ('Amman), 2^ 32, 3ii 35i 322 4ii m 3Sa: 323 Rabbath Moab (Madb), rg, ail i^i 32i 38L -IQ^ 4Q4 Rachel (Rahil), Tomb, 299 Rafaniyyah (Raphania), 3^, 40^ Rafh, 27-29 5Ili Rahbah ash Sham, 517, (•UJ» l^) Rahbah Khalid, £18, oJU. \^ Rahit, Meadow of, 503 Ar Ra'ibiyyah, 3t^o, is**'^' RaisQn, 518, oy^-) Rajaliyyah, ^ Rajil, ^ Ar Rakim, and the Cave of the Seven Sleepers, 274-286, 392, Ar Rakkah, ^ U}\ RAmah, si8, Ar Rami, 346, ,^^}\ At Ramlah, LI. 28, ^ ^ 303- 308, ^' ; its water, ; river of, 56 ; veils of, Rammadah of Ramlah (i), 519, Rammddah of Halab (2], 519 RamQsah, 519, Ransoming of captives, 23 Raphania (see Rafaniyyah) At Ras, 60, 61, Ras Abu Muhammad, 549 Ras al 'Ain, 472 Ras al Hisn, 519 Ras Rarah, 478 Jabal Ras al Khinzir, 519 Ar Ra'sha, 519, ^» Rashid ad Din, chief of the assassins, his tomb, 352 Ar Rass, 276, Rastan (Arethusa), 6ij 358, 380, 1L9_' d^) Rati, Kotl, or Ritl, pound weight, 50, 5_i Ar Rawandan, 60j 520, 1^^}^ Rawiyah, s^o, iiy^ Rayas, 520, Rayyah, for Rabbah, 38—2 5SO fALESTISE L'SDER THE MOSLEMS. RcDecca. Toir;b of. ;2i. Rcurien, Tomb of, 341, 467 Re^erues of S)na at \-arious e:ochs. 44-48 Rr.:noo:'>jra. < Al *Ah<h), ^i, T^q- R:l.iu or watch stations, on the S>-nan coast, 23 R iCe culmre, 4 1 1 Richard C<:Eur de Lion, 316 Rif, 1 district, 2^ ^ Rihi yj 'or Anna, Jericho), iv. iS. 2^y, .^96, : Water of, 20, 396 Rihi, near Halab (2), 520 Rijah ibn Hayah, 144 The Rock, and Dome of the Rock (see Jerusalem) Roofs of Mosques in S)Tia, 21 Rose-water of Damascus, price paid 2fih Royal Ell. 43 Ruad, 399 Ar-Rubbah, 288. 291. 292, i*Ji Rubrica Sinopica, Rubwah, 521, iyj Ar Ruhbah, S2i, Ruhin, ^21, At Raj, 490, Rumah, «;2i, Rumailah, t;2i, Ar Rusafah (i^ of Hishim), 36, 35 521-^23. Monas- tery of, 4^ Ar Rusafah (2, HisnX 352, ^2^ Rfisis, ^2^ cr^^^ Hisn ROsus, 523, crT*^; ut*^ Ruwat, Ruwath, or Ruwad, ^ .\s Sab' ( 1). 523, As Sab' (2, Beershcba), «;23 Sabaeans, Observations of, 6x Sabadir, 61. Sabastiyah Samaria), 28, Sabastiyah (2, of Sumaisat), 523 Sabbatical River, 52 Sab'in, 523, ^^7-*-- Sablon d'Acre, 41^8 Sabtar, Sabtat, 61, >ir- or Sabura, Sabwayaim (Zeboim), 289, 20 2, r-e>>r« or ';^>U Sabyah, 52^ 6— As Sadir, j:;24, ;oUJi Sadum (Sodom), 289, 291, 392, or ^1 RQyan, ^ o^^J V, measure, 48 ■ Safad, or Safat, Kingdom of, 42, City of, 524, —a- or *>a-, iSafi ad Din, his Epitome of VakGt, 2 Saf ira, ^25, ^jsa^ I As Safiriyyah, 525, *i ' As Safiyah, 292, i-iUJi Saff, 525, ok-» Saffuriyah (Sepphoris), 3^ 525, As Safsaf, 526, *.JUiu2i Safura (Zipporah), Tomb of, 445, . 470 ' As Safwaniyyah, S26, 5-i'^»^' j As Sahirah, the Place of As- I senibly at the Resurrection, 216, 2 1 S-220, ijitLJk Sahr. ijj Sahya, 526, ; Sahyun, or SihyQn (i, Saone), I 80, .S26, SahyOn Sion), Church of, 141, 203, 2J-2 ; Gate of, 213- Sa'id, son of the Khalif 'Abd al Malik, said to have built the Dome of the Rock, 144 INDEX, 597 Saidi (i, Sidon), 32, 39,4i> 345- 348 ; calleci Irbil, 458," ^ Saida (2, in Hauran), 527 Saif ad Daulah, his conquests, 38 : his palace, 361 Saihan, Nahr (Sarus), 63, 382, SailOn, 477, 527, S41r (Seir), 301, 302, 440^ 527, 538, ^L- As S ijiir (river), 42* 406, 415, 527, ;^l~Jl Sakar (sec Sughar. Zoar), jQ— As Sakariyyah, 527, 547, Sakha, 527, UL* Sakf, 528, i-A- As Sakt» 528. JUi Sakk4 528, ^ Sakt, Nahr, 238, UL- Sa'I, 528 Sal', 528, ^i*- Saladin (Salah ad Din), '^i^^ in- scription in the Aksa Mosque, 109 ; his inscription in the Dome of the Rock, 134 ; his Tomb at Damascus 264 Salaghfis^ 528, <j<«j*Lm Salam, 528, f^"^ Salanuyyai), or Salaniaiiiyyah (Salaminias), 35, 39. 42, 43, 79» 5io» 528, Sdlih, the Prophet, Tomb of, and ' Sarh, 531, tj^ Samakln, 530, ^^^^ Samalfl, 530, yu— oryU«* Samani reeds and mats, 338, 411 Samanft, porridge, 18 Sam i rail and the Samaritans, 4i4» 484, 5» 1 514 As Sam&wah, 530, e^U-Ji As Sammin, 530, ^^^mJI Samtitn, 53^> \jt*^*^ Samosata (Sumais&t), 26^ 27, 39, 78, 539 Samuel, Convent of, 433 Snn'a, 530, Sanajiyah, 530, ft.«r>lu< As Sfliiamftn, or As Sanamain, 530, ts>e**-*i or oU-^-H Sand, called Makkah Sand^ 446 Sandfly, called Dalam, 401 Sandpits, for glass, 423 Jabal Snn-r, 32, 78, 79, 295-298, Sanjah, 531, i'*^ As Sannabrah, 531, '^j-^ Sarafah, 531, Sarafand or Sarafkndah (Zar^ hath Sarepta), 531, bA^jm Sarah, Tomb of, 314, 318, jao^ 32 ^ 327 Sarda, 419, Station of. 329, 332, 487 As Salihiyyah, 529, &flJU}l Salkhad, or Sarkhad (SalchahX | Sarkhad (Salchad), 426, 529 Sdris, 531, sj^,}^ Sarjah, 531, 426, 529, or Sarniad, 532, -x*^ vSalinan, Hisn, 454, ^^jUL. Sarmin, 36, 80, 2QT, 532, Salt from the Dead Sea, 20 As Salt, 41, 529, ♦JwJu-li or Salftk, 530, j/- Salfikiyyah (Seleuda Pieria), 384, 530, S&m, 530. Samakah, red sandstone-hills, 20 Silruniyyah, 532, Sarus River, 63, 382 SasakOn, 532, ^^C«L» As Sath, 532, M SatrA. 532, »>«» As S&tftrah, well in Safiul» 524, Digitized by Google 573, ^1 ■ I Sta-nr 1 Lihssa), 36, 80, 360, Ash Srajaiah, 554, IjaA £5 :t: — - zui-uag rt 2e Shalcf Amun < Beiioct), 56, 76, sj^ 357. S>-»ik:: l>j.bbin, 535. »— y.tk:f Tiriri ^Cavei TjTum), aaoKiy 535, C2j=^ Sc-nic^*:^ 3j25g2 > 15. ilw Ash Skimmisiyyah, 535, -^=- sij. XI. 5S ^^-i- *- i^cTT f ' JT, ^caz di L»x» Sr^.s-^c 55, 535, ^ .\>h Sr-in-.u>, 536, Ser. - uri^ » 3CI, Sr-indr. 536,/^ ^i-. ^li Scjj:\ 536, ^ $»i r:a. ^--.-2ir ft' Lcc ^55 Ash Shaiih (Edom), 28, 32, 33, z'^psl anl JcyTah .5*4. 35. 39. 41. 74» «87. 3^ ;tc Sr-inf dl Baal 536, J^fc8*«-*r* S«i*3c:cesc* Ash 5cc^br * Nohr ash Shari'ah, name of the 5«» ~ Ionian, 52, jsf :r5 Sj^.- -xj- . 525 Sr-imi ai Bait, 536, ^■■■■J' rr^ CS^-xni-Ciii, c'-T^ i-f- k ziexm:^^ S-'^ irm al Bir. 556, jsr^ -\ .^r. .\s£i ihaubak i^Crac de Moni- sm-I nuM SaMit^ real), 41, 479, 536, s^y^ ^ Sbebo, Bflids Queen of, 264, 297 $1 Sbecbern, 380 Seti-- T>?c:b xzi Shem, Tomb of, 316, 516 Sew. SieeMS. Cxrt of, 274 Shikra, 537, ,>:.^ Shinan, 537, j^^v t-j:. Ash Shir, 'Akaiah, 389, Srlr xT^ ; Shn'aib (JethroX Tomb of, 341, V5i Sr-i- ii • 444. 445» 45^, 45h 497 A^ Shi^hur, 5i3, , 537, Ash Shahbi (CasUe of Halab), bhughlan, 447, o**^ ^ -66, W4J i Ash Shughr (SeleucobelosX 80, "^^HahshabaandJabalShahshabu, A'^!^ Sliuhurah (Akabah), 4^ Digitized by Cuv^L^it. INDEX. 599 Shumaimis, 42, ^/->j«6» Sburaik ibn HabSshah and the Well of the Leaf, 198-200, Sibistin, 537, vjj^ "f* [292 Siddik, Tomb of, 534 Siddika, his Tomb and Festival (Jabal MddikA), 76 Sidon (Saida), 32, 39, 41, 345- 348 ; called Irljil, 458 As Sifliyyftn, 537, oy^^ Siffin, Plain, and Battle of, 417 Sihyfln (Saone), 80^ 526 SihyOn (Sion), 141, 203, 212-215 Sl'ir (Seir), 301, 302, 440, 527, 5.38, Sijjilin, 538, SikilHyah, 538, As Sjkkin, Jabal, 81, ^j^-^-JI ^ Silkwonns of Ascalon, 401 Siloaniy Pool of (Sulwin), 74, 162, 179, 212, 220, 223 Siloam, Hospital at. 221 Silphius, Mount, 369-371 Simeon. Tomb of, 423, 467 Simon Peter, or Simon Magnus, Tomb of, 521 Stn&b, 61, Sinai (Jabal at T(if\ 73, 547 ; Convent of, 435 Sinjil (Saint Gilles), 466, 483, 538, Sinnar, 538, ;U«o As Sir, 'Akabah, 389, Sirfandakar, 538, jiojij^ As Sirftt, Bridge of, 162, 164, 165, 171, 218, Sinin, 538, ^:f.jr^ Sis, or Sisiyah (Little Annenia), 27, 38, 62, 63, 420, 538, - J -- or Slec'iicrs of Ephesus, Legend of, 274-286 Snobar Pines and Wood of, 41 1, 455» 538 Soap of Nabulus, 5 1 3 Soap of Sarmtn, 532 Sodom and Gomorrah, Lake o( 66 ; Legends of, 286-292 Solomon, Circus of, at 'Amm.^n, 392 ; Bath of, 146, 337 ; builds the Enclosure at Hebron, 318, 319 ; his Pools at Wadi Urtas, 197 \ Tomb, in the I^ke of Tiberias, 67, 339, 341 ; Tomb at Bethlehem, 299 ; Palace at Ba*albakk, 297 Le Soudin (Suwaidiyyah), 540 The Spy, Legend of, 290, 540 St Anne, Mother of the V irgin, Tom!) of, 515 Sl liarbara's Feast, 21 St: George's Feast, 21 St. Giles, Raymond of, 350 St. (Ulles, 538 St. John, Monastery of, 428 St. Mark, Monastery of, 430 St. Mary's Church, at Jerusalem, 90 St. Paul, Monastery of, 428 SS. Peter and Paul, Monastery of, 429 St Feter at Antioch, 37 r St. Peter, Tomb of, 521 St. Simeon's Harbour, 434 St. Simeon's Convent, 433 St. Stej)hen's (late, Jerusalem, ancient and motlern, 213-215 St. I'homas, (iate of, and Village, Damascus, 547 Stones, Great, at Ba'albakk, 295 ; in the Wall of the Haram Area at Jerusalem, 179 Si'jbn. s^S, .-Xs Subaibah, 419, As Subairali, 539, '^jsr^^ Sudar, 539, Sufy&n, Hisn, 348 Sugar Culture, 17, 348, 480 Digitizoa by C3t.)0^lc 6oo PALESTINE OHDER THE MOSLEMS, Sughar, Sukar, or Zughar (Seghor, Zoar), 15, 1 8, 28, 31, 35» 39. ^4. 286.292, 392, j&« or ; IVoducts of. 18 ; Water of, 20 ; I^kc of, or Dead Sea, 31, 52-54, 64-67 As Sukhnah, 539, Sulam, 539, (JL Sulaiman, Khalif, his bath, 146 ; Tomb of, 426, 503 ; story of his slave-girl, 430 ; builds Palace and iNtosque at Ar Rainlah, 303, 304, 307, 308 Sulphur, Mines of, ao Sulwan (Siloam), 74^ 162, 179, ai2, 220, 223, Suniaisat (Samosata), 36, 27, 39, 78, 539» As Summak, Jabal, and the Sumach tree, 8 1 , 390, j^u-Ji Sunnuhar, 539, J^s^ Sar (Tyre), 19, 30, 32, 39, 41, 342*345» J!f* ; ite products, 19 ; its water, 20 Suratah, 540, As Surayyah. 540, As Surbah, 346, <^^— Sftriya, name of Hims, 356, Sdriyah, 540, kjy* SAriyyah (Syria), 540, hjf^ Surkh, 540, 6/* Susitha, 540 Siksiyah (Hippos), 473, 540, Jalial as Suwad, 462, ol^H As Suwaida, 540, »a>^l As Suwaidiyyah (Port of St Simon, or St. Simeon's Har- bour), 39^ 59-61, 8o» 376, 434, 540, &iO<J«Jl Suwiyyah, 540, hy^ Suyaii, 540, SuyQti, Shams ad Dtn, his works, 12 Syria, called Shdm, 14; called Suriyyah^ 540 Ta'Hsir, 540, Tabariyyah (Tiberias), 15, 18, 30-32. 39. 4% o34 341, 380, 3831 ; l-ake of, 31, 42, 52. 67, 2f)!, ru-33^i 340 Tabor, Mount, 75, 434 Taium. ovens, 23 Tad hi I, 540, >ol» Tndmur (Palmyra), 15, 35, 36, 39i 540-542, Taidfi, or 'Hdi, 442, ^ Tailasan, or Tarhah, veils, S3 At Taim, VVadi, 80, 498^ Taimar, 542, Tais, 542, Takhawah, 542, TakA', 542, ei» Talftta, 542, Mb Talfiyatha, 542, IM« Tall (Dew). 542, > Tall (the Hill of) A'ran, 542, o/*' J*' Tall Bashir (Turbessel), 42, 542, J5 Tall Dibhtn, 4^1* Tall Hahash, 543, Ji^ Tall Hamdun, 543, or**^ J' Tall Hamid, 543, J*" Tall Harak, 543, Tall Ha r ran, 543, o>*^ J* Tall Hi mar, 41, jUc Tail Hum, 543, J» Tall Jabiyah, 460, JJ Tall Jazar, 543, )•/>- Ji Tall Jubair, 543, ^ Js Tall Kabbdsin, 543. Tall Kais;in, 543, ^U-^ i3* Tall Kanisah, 47 7, ft J> Digitized by Google INDEX, 6ot Tall Kashfahan, 543, ^ Tall Khalid, 543, Ji Tall al Kikan, 543, Tall Mannas (i, Ma'arrah) Tela- minia, 544, J» Tall Mannas (2, Hims), 544 Tall Masih, 544, J? Tall Nasibin, 515, Js Tall Siitiyah (Blanche Garde), 41, 544, Tall as Sulian, 441, 544, ^^\m\ tt J» Tall Tajir, 544, j* 'I'amcrlanc and the Damascus Mosque, 272 Tamim ad Dh% his Almshouse, Tamni, 544, ^ Tanhaj, 544, Tanks (see Birkat) TantClrah Fira'un, Pharaoh's cap, so-called Tomb of Absalom, 218, 219 Tanfiniyah, 544, i^yi Taiibulus, or Atr&bulus(Tripoli), 3*» 39» 43' «o» 81, 348-352, 380, (j-^»> ; Kingdom of, 41 Taraz Mountains, 352, jl^* Tarfnl:in, 544, i^^y Tanvak ( Theriack, Antidote, and Tariyakiyyah serpents), 16, 396 Tarmis, 544, cre*> TarsOs, a6, 27, 37, 38, 62, 63, 82, 377, 378, 4tS, vrr-> TartOs (Tortosa), 36, 39, 352, 394, 544, cr» At Tarrtn, 544, o^^' Tauia', 544, e^y At TawAhtn, 544, At Tawllah, 545, Taxes and Tribute of Syria, 44- 48 At Tayyibah, 545, M-S' Telammia ( I'all Mannas), 544 Tell or hill (see Tall) Tell Dibbin, 481 Templars, Knights, 107, 108, 447, 453 Thahr al Himar, 545, ;U»Ji ^ Jabal ath 'I'lialj, the Mount of Snow, Heimon, 79, 418, 419, Thaniyyat al 'UkSb (i, Damas- f-us), 383, 545, wAc*J» M Thaniyyatal 'Uk4b(2,Massissah), 545 Nahr Thaura, or I haurah (river), 58, 238, 253, 266, c^yoriV^ Theophanes, the Historian, 91, 140 Theriack Antidote, 16, 396 At Thughur, the Frontier Fortresses of Syria, Province of, 26. 27, 37, Tibenaij (see Tabari) yah) Tibnin (Le Turun), 545, Jabal Tibntn, 76, J-*- Tih (Desert of the Wanderings), 27-29, 41, 425, M TimOr l^ng, or Tamerlane, and the Damascus Mosque, 272 Kala'at at Tin, 539, i At Tin and Az ZaitCin, 546, Hisn at TtnAt, 39, 455, Tin nab, 546, fcr** Tirah, 546, 5^ Tirzah^ 540 Toion, Le, 545 l ortosa, 36, 39, 352, 394, 544 rra< honitis (Al l^jja), 41, 4^5, 492 [434 Transfiguration, Mount of the, Tripoli (see Tar^bulus) At Taban, 546, At TOhaniyyah, 546, MjjW* j Tubbal, 546, J-i Digitized by Google Xi. SJ. -sc. -i^^Jjdtj*^ ; -« «v Vinr JL. Vrosx. or AI Unmd — ^ S'S- 3i> cr ^ Tztsh oC 3S2 ——7^^ 36^ 39. 57, Trri. - r_- - .5. j-c, 4.2^ 5:4 r^Lr.— r^JiTU r:. ^^'-^^j^ Veseccs. cc Borkiy pobt stage, T T „- , 11, ;~ V3g3is Foom at Jenisa- Wic- Butnin, 39, 02, 406, 456, L «xr ^ - ^ ^ rr» Jahannam (Valky of - - ' , ^ cf Kcdiool, 218-220^ ^ .\. . liiah. 752. i 2 Wadi al Hiir, > 1:=^ Kca. 35^ KaD'an, 419, 462, 477, X'n-.i?v C4i, 524. o**^ ITri tr. 545. Wadi Musa (Petia), 41, 548* *Urd, ^4?. o-^.-* ^^^'^^ Naml, 402, 403, 413, OTrf a'd Dui, ibe Cock s Comb, . 549, ^j4 i Wadi at Taim, 80, 498, Digitized by Cuv^L^it. INDEX, 6oj Wadi Urtns, 440, \S adi az Ziiitun, 423 Al Wadiyain, 549 Wahb ibn Munabbiii, ilic con- verted Jew, 142 Walbah, measure, 48 Wailah, or Ailah (Eloth, or Elath), 27, 28, 39, 549, or Wajh al Hajar, 550, Al Wnkusah, 54, Al Walid, the Khalit, ImiUlr. Damascus Mosque, 232-234, YahmOl (2, Bahasnd), 551 236-241, 260-263 ; carries offj Yakid, 551, ^ columns from Antioch, 368 ; Ma^jid al Vakin, 551, ^^^^ said to have built the Aksd, 557 I Ya'kQbl, his geography and his- Al W'alid ibn Muslim, the Tra- torv, 3 ditionist, 1 39 | Yilkur, his geographical works, 8 Wartanis (i, Sumaisat), 550, Valdan, 552, o^J) ' Yanjalus. 277, ^^eW Wartanis (2, Haurin), 550 ' Nahr al Yarmftk (Hieromax), 31, Watch stations on the coast, 23 42. 53, 54, ^^^1 ^ ; battle YabHn, 550, ^^»!^ YabrCid (i, liims), 511, Yabriul (2, Jerusalem), 550 Yabus, 550, Y&iah, or Ytfk (Jaflah, Juppa). 24, 28, 29, 39, 41, 381, 550, fiii* or Nahr and Jisr Yaghra (river), 42, 60. 71, 386, 551, l/i 1 nkv of, 7 2 \ almiul (1, Halab), 55 1, Water in Syria, 20 Water-Uly, 16 Water-wheels of the Orontes, 59, 359 Weights used in Syria, 50 Well of Job, 220-223 of. 54» 430 Al Yarukiyyah, 552, Yashkur, Nahr, 238, Yasuf, 552, Ya/dud (AshdoJ\ 381, 405, Well of the Leaf, 198, 292 (see Yazid ibn Sallani, 144 also under ,^lr) jYaztd, Nahr <canal), 58, 235, The White Mosque at Ar Ram- 238, 265, otjt lah, 305 YizAr, 553, The White Minaret at Damascus, Yubnl, or Ubna (i, Jabneh, or 254, 259. 264 WTiit-Sunday Festival, 21 Wilson, Sir Charles, identifica- tion of the Gates of the Haiam Area, 1 73 Windows of stained glass, 244, 267 Wisadah, 550, £oL-^ Al Wii'airah, 550, ^^^1 Al Wulr, 550, >y» Va alh, 550, v2j^> Jabneel), 24, 28, 553, ^ or \'ubna (2, Balka), 553 Vunis (Jonah), Turnb, 4^7 Yilsuf (Joseph, pit of), 419, 465, 477» 483. 527, 538 YMn, 553» «7«^ Zabad, 555, Oi) Az Zabadani, 39, 553, J^^^\ Zabatrah, or Zibatrah, "62, 553^ 5>*j Digitized by Google * 604 I' A LEST IN B UNDER THE MOSLEMS, Jabal az Z4b<id. 76, o^jJl J^- Zabulon, 382, 458 achariah, 132, 269, 523 achariah, Mihr&b of, 1 1 1, 161, 164-166, 170 Za.i;hhah, 554, M) Zaid, the Prophet's Freedinan, I'omb of, 510 Jabal az Zaita (i, the Mount of Olives), 72, 74, 162, 21X, 218- 220, Jabal az Zaitd (2, at N&bulus), 513 A/ ZaitAn, WAdi, 423 Az'ZaiU'inab, 554, w^^l Az^'Zailuniyvah, 350, c^y^j^^ y.audy or Ziza, 393, 554i ZamlakAn, or ZamlukS, 555, or Zanad, or Zabad, 555, **f) or Zandan, 555, o"^; A / rVnh, or Ad Dari'ah, 555, Zardana, 555, Zarephath^ 531 .\z ZArika, 555, Nahr Zark& (Jablok), 55, 393 Az Zarki, 41 Az 2^ura, 522, Hisn az Zib, 555, vij-^ Zibel (Jabalah), 36, 39, 57, 416, ZilQsh, 556, g^yt> [459 Zipporah, wife of Moses, Tomb of, 445> 470. Zu'airah, 483, ljt»') Zubaidah, her Alnis-house, 407 AzZubdan, 553, o'^r' Zughar, Sugiiar, or Sukar (Zoar of l.ot), 15, 18, 28,31, 35,39, 64, 286-292, 392, or or y»> ; Products of, 18 Sea of Zughar (Dead Sea), 31, 52-54, 64-67 Az Zuh&d, Hisn, 404, ZuUabiyyah, cake, 23 Zflr'ah, 556, Zurri, or Zur', or Zurrah, 381, 425» 529* 556* e;;, or \}) Zurra'ah ad Dahhak, 556, Zunl'ah Zitfar, 556, » U^S} THE END. MLUWC AND sons, MIINTBKS, CUILHrmiX Digitized by Google A Descriptive List of the Books Published by Alexander F. IVatt London LONDON ALEXANDER P. WATT 3 PATERNOSTER SQUARE 1890 Table of Contents of this Catalogue. PAGB Across tlie Jorc^an. G. Schumacher... ■.. 9 Altaic Hieroglyphs and Hittite Inscriptions. Major 8 Americanisms — Old and New. John S. Farmer ... J5 Arch»iIo$jical Mission of M. Clermont-Ganneau, The 12 Bible au'l Modern Discoveries, The. Henry A. Hairier ... 6 Board School Larj-nj^itis. Greville MacDonald 14 Diseases of the Nose, A Treatise on. Greville MacDonald Flora and Fauna of Palestine, The. Canon Tristram 9 riora and Fauna of Wady Arabah, The. Chichester Hart 12 Ueolog>' of i alestine and Arabia retra-a, The. 1 rol. L. Hull 8 Health : A Journal of Domestic and Sanitary Science ... 14 Hcth and Moab. Major Conder 7 Jaulan, The. G. Schumacher 9 lerusalcm. Sir Charles Warren and Major Conder 8 Memoirs, The. {Sgf Survey of Western Palestine) .Mount Scir. Prof. Edward Hull ... ... 8 Name Lists. Survey of Western Palestine) Names and Places in the Old and New Testaments and Apocrypha. G. Armstrong 10 Names and Places in the New Testament. G, Armstronjj 10 Nasal Ohstiuction. (Greville MacDon.^Ki 14 Nasal Rrspiration. Greville MacDonald ... 14 Our Work in Palestine. W. Besant 10 Pella. G. Schumacher 9 Quarterly Statement II Satchel Guide, A 16 Slang, A Dictionary of. John S. Farmer IS Si;G<.ial l'aper>. {SW Survey of Western Palestine) Survey of PaJe^line, Tlie ... ... ... ... ... 1 1 Survey of Western Palestine, The »3 .Syrian Stone Lore. Major Cornier ... S Tent Wiirk in Palestine. Major Conder 7 Twenty-one Years' Work in the Holy Land. W. Besant... 10 Sook0 on 9ale0titte« The Coiumittee of the Palestine Exploration Fund have appointed Mr. IVatt their Publisher and the Sole Agent for the sale of their books to the general public. These books (of which a detailed account will be found below) are ab- solutely unrivalled by any works on the Holy Land, ancient or modern; even by those whose most valuable portions are those taken from the work of the Society. It must never be forgotten that no single traveller^ however well equipped by previous study ^ can compete with a sciefitifc Digitized by Google 4 SooM on ^ale0tt(ie. body of explorers^ working an well- defined lines, well instructed as to the places and methods of examination, and provided with the instruments required for the conduct of their work. The following enumeration of the officers who have worked for the Society in the field will show the character and authority of these names, and the weight which such names lend to the work in hand. Col. Sir Charles Wilson, K.C.B., • K*C>M*G»| LLmD*! F.R.S*| R.£* Oldnuoe Surveyor of Jerusalem and the Peninsda of Siud ; afterwards of the Intelligence Department, Consul-General of Anatolia, and now Director of the Ordnance Survey of Great Britain. Col. Sir Charles Warren, G.C.B., K«C*M.G.| F,R«S*t R*H. la command of the Excavaiioas at Jerusalem. Governor of Griqual indWest In-tmctor in Surveying At Ch.ilh.iin. late Head of the Meiiopoliun i'ulice. Governor ol the Straits Settlemeat. Digitized by Google Sooto on )^ale0t(ne« 5 Major Anderson, C.M.G., R.£. Who accompanie<l Sir Cliaiks (then Gftptkin) WOm to J«ftt- aalem. Died 1879b Major Conder, R.E. Surveyof of Wcsicni PtInliM Mtd poftton of Etitcni FiHlettiiiCt Author of the bookt detailed bdow : nam 00 the Stalfof tbe OnUumoe Survey. Lieut.-Cul. Kitchener, C.B., C.M.G., R.E. Who accompanied Maior Conder, and completed alone the Survey uf western Palestine. Late Governor of Suakim. Captain Mantell, R.£. Who aooomponied Ifajor Conder in the Eastern Survef. Edward Henry Palmer, M.A. Lord Almoner's Professor of Arabic, Cruul.ridgt" ; Filiuw of St. John's College, Cambridge. Explorer of the Dc&ert of the Exodus. Transistor of ibe Koran, and Anthorof many valnable Oriental works. Murdered by Arabs, 188a. C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake, F.R.G.S. Who acconipanie<l P.ilmer in his journey across the Desert. Burton in his wanderings about North Syria, and Conder in the Survey of Wcsicrii I'.ili -tine. Died in Jcnisalcm, His lilerary remains were collected and published (Bentlcy & Son) in the following year. Charles Clermont*Ganneau. For many \c.irs .utMi In-d to tln" I'rcnch ('<>tisul:itc, Jcrusalcnii now I^ofcs^r of .Sinaitic Archaeology at the Sorbonne. Edward Hull, LL.D., F.R.S., F.G.S. Professor of lieology, DaUio. Chief of the Geoiogicai iixpedi* tion to the Vislley of Akabah In 1889. Digitized by Google 6 25ooM on f^eAtatint. Conrad Schick. Who has resided for a great many years at Jenisaleiu, aiiU is as well ni (|ii;iint>-(l with the ci^ Mid With the question wt ianie a» aiif person to the world. Gottlieb Schumacher, C.E. Of Haifa. A young German engineer who has recently done excel- lent work for the Society. Rev. Greville Chester. This tmvdler has made several minor expeditions for the Society. Among them are journeys to the Island of Ru:id (tho P)in-n;cir?n Aradus], across the neck of country between liie Suez Canal and Gan to the Kaboard bordering North Syria. Ao. TAe following are the fVarks Pub^ lished for the Society by Mr. Watt: Henry A. Harper, Author of *' Illustrated Letters to my Children,** « Walks in Fkleslinc^*' fte., Ae. The Bible and Modem Discoveries. With Map, Index, and Illustrations. In i vd. Demy 8vo, 1 6s. The man who could write such a book as the .ibovo must possess three necessary qualifications. He must have travelled in Palestine— not. that is, gone on a tour, but actually trafelled in the old sense, which did not mean lying down in one place at night and going on again in the morning. Next, he must pos>e>>s :in intimate knowledge of the book to be illustrated, 'ilie third qua! mention nece&sary for one who should add a new eorameniary capaMeof beiflg mad and nndentood by all. is the power of writing popularly aod vividly. All three q-jnliftcations appeared to the Committee of the Palestine iixpiorauon Fund to be possessed by the Author of Digitized by Google Booked on i^ale£ftine. 7 this work. Mr. licary A- HarjKr has bn-n a uavcllcr, not a tourist. Not once, but twice his feet lingered over these holy fields. He is an artist who has paintf^ the lands of Plalestine. Shiai. «iid E^yi't. He hm a proronnd knowledge of the Bible, and a drop love for every portion of r , l is reading is not limited to Paul on the one hand, not to the boolc of Job on the other. He knows every p:irt of the Biblr. And, finally, he has shown in his " Letters to inv Children Irona the Holy Land "how well he can illustrate huIi pen and pencil the scenes of the Bible. In this new iraric« tbeiefere. ibe Audior bas attempted a thli^ hitherto untried. //^ ftiU takm fhe sacred history as related in th* Bible, strf by iUp. ami has retold it with fxplanattans and iiimsirationj .:r.::vn from modem research and from personal observation. He ha>.', in short, written n book h it is hoped will prove thai looj^-desiied i>upul.ir coniieciiun oi scientific ex> ploration witb the subjeet wbicb emdoratioii «m intended to lUustrale. Major Conder, R.E. Tent W^ork in Palestine, In i vol, 8vo. lUtistrated. 6s. A {xjpular account of the Survey of WVstLTn Palestine, freely illostrated by drawings ntade by the Author himself. This is not a dry record of the sepalehres, or a descriptive catalogue of the ruins, springs, and valleys, bnt a continuous nnrrativ full of observauoii!* upon the manners and cu!>lums oi the jX'ople. the Biblical associations of the sites, the Holy City and its n»emories, atid is based upon a ^ix years' exp<"ric'r;ce in the country itself. No other modern imveller has enjoyed the same advutuage<> its Major Conder, or bas tued bis oppoctuniiics to better purpose. Heth and Moab. In i vol. 8vo. Illustrated. 6s. Under the .i1k)vc title XTajor Conder provides a narrative, as bright and as full of inierc&t as " ' Tent Work," of the Expedition for The Survey of Eastern Palestine. Hou the party \^^\\x\ by a flying visit to North Syria in order to discover the Holy City (Kadcsh) of the children of Hedi J how they stteceeded fn their search, and wliat tin \ ^ aw ; how llu v farrd across tlie Jordan, and what discovenc:» ihey made there, «iU be fotind In tUs vohmc* Digitized by Google 8 Booii0 on ^aledtfne« Syrian Stone Lore. In i vol. 6vo. Illustrated. 6s. This vQlunw^ the least known of Major Conder't works, prohnhly on account of its somewhat unattmctive title, is, none the less the most valuable to the Biblical student It attempts a task never bdtope apprrached — the reconstruction or Palestine from its monuments. It shows, im fact rJ.l that wr should km-no vf Syria if there were no Bible at aU, aud u illustrates the Bible nom the monmiNntB whidi icnMim Altaic Hieroglyphs and Hittite Inscriptions. In I voL 8vo, 5s. Thtsliook tt an attemfit to read the Hiitfte fnscriptions. It is not yet possible to s.iy how fiir the Aullior has succeeded. It is certain, however, that he has, as yet, seen ao reason to duuige his Tiewt Mnce the pabHcatton of the work. Sir Chas. Warren and Major Conder. Jerusalem. Illustrated, with a Portfolio of 50 Sheets of Designs and Plans. In i vol. 410, £s 5s- This great work, which is also included in that euiitled. •* The Survey of Western Palestine" (w page 13), is certainly by far the most important book on the subject that has ever appeared. It luclucics the whole of the discoveries made in and around the Holy C-iiy from the Ordinance Survey in 1865, until its publication in 1885. Ii also contains a bciofhistOiy ol the city, an account of iia iuoauiueats, &c Prof. Edward Hull, F,R.S., etc The Geology of Palestine and Arabia Petrsea. With Illustrations nnd Coloured Maps. In I vol., uniform with the "Jerusalem" volume and ** The Survey of Western Palestine." 4to, £1 is. Mount Setr. Illustrated. In i vol. 8vo, 6$. This book is a popular, brightly written account of a bold and adventurous journey across Sinai, up the Valley of the Akabah, and round the shores of the E>ead Sea, &c. , during the Geotoffkial Expedition. Digitized by Google Seotar on ftaletMne* 9 Gottlieb Schumacher, C.E. Across the Jordan. Maps and Illustrations. In 1 vol. 8vo, 6s. This book is ibe tiistury of a short Survey undertaken by Hcrr Schumacher for the Committee of the ntestiae Explocatioti Fund in the little knowit and deeply inteietting couatiy at the Hauran. The Jaulan. Containing 144 Illustrations, as well as Plans and Coloured Maps. In i vol. 8vo,6s. This is the record of a journey for the survey of a district baldly ever trodden by £iiropeans. ami fidl of strange and in* l-'ciia. WiLli .Map and 24 iiiusUaLioiis. In I voL Paper covers, 2s. 6d. A Survey of Fahil, the ancient Pella, fint home of the Chris- dans after ihcir retreat from Jerusalem. All these books by Herr SchUniacher are must valuable and interesting. They treat of portions of country little known, rarely vibitcd, and never bcloie surveyed. Hcrr Schumacher plans and sketches the ruins with ability and carefolaess. All three volttmes are ttroogly recommended. Canon Tristram, F.R.S. LL.D., lIc. The Flora and Fauna of Palestine. Witii 20 Full-pai;e lllusiratious, of wliich 13 are coloured by hand. In 1 vol. 410, £^ 3s. This noble work— also incltitJcil in the series entitled, "llie Survey of Western T ilrstine " (j« page 13}— contains a com- plete catalogue ot all the vertebrate Kauna, including the frcsh- watrrEshcs : the most singular portion of the Fyntine Fauna, the terrestrial and fluviatiie molIus<:a, and phanerogamic plants and ilie ferns. 'l"he Hebrew names, so far .-is known i$.e., every Hebrew n.iiiio found in llic llit le), and the vernacular Arabic names are given ; the authority and original description of every species is given in reference, and the geographical area of each specios, which in even- case Vns been can: :i:ll> worked out. Short accounts aie given of the most interesting and conspicuous MpedUt and the fishes of the Sea of Galilee are very fially described. Digitized by Google lo SOOI0 on ]^aU0Ctne. Walter Besant. Our Work in Palestine In I vol. 8vo, 3s. 6d. (Third Thousand.) Hkis book. p(^>lish(.<(l in 1871, ran Uirough 10,000 copies, but if now out of iiriiit (though a few copies may remain)* and ii •owqiiiiteoatofdata. U has been superseded by Twenty-one Years' W ork in the Holy Land. Contauung over 50 lllusuaiions. In i vui. 6vo, This litik work, written by one w ho is a complete master of the subject in all its details, is designed lo piv^^Mrr a question often put — Why the l^lc^une Exploralion i-unci Society has BO ittmmt of ils worit for popular use ? 'Ihis volume endeavours to give such a resume ; it pomts oat in general tcnns the Biblical gmns resulting from Uic woif( of the Siocie^ ; and it shows abo in genoal torms what remains to be done; George Armstrong. Assistani Settttaty U PialwHni ExphtOtkn FmnL Names and Places in the Old and New Testament and Apocrypha. In i voL 8vo, 6s» This is a book which has Iwen very often asked for. and has never yet been supplied, li is absolutely indispensable for every one who pretends to a minute study of any portion of the B&bW. The fndex to the OM Testament sites inchides upwards of \,\\o names of places \\\ the Holy I^md. Mesopotamin, Kdom, the Desert of Sinai, and tgypi. being, it is believed, all those that are mentioned in the Old Testament and Apocrypha. The hidex to the New Testament sites contains i6a names, wi'.h r. f' rt-iio-s to lo«.e[>hus (W'bi^ton's), in addition to those in the New 1 esianicnt. Ul these names 144 arc known. lo un« eeitain, and 8 not identified. Names and Places in tlK^ New Testament Piiblii>hcd separately. Paper covers, IS. 6d. For description see above. Digitized by Google Boob0 on IPale^Jtine, T! The Quarterly Statement. Published in January, April, July, and October, of each year. Each part 3S. 6(1. Qoth cases for binding four part^, is. 6d. This journal comuiericcd in March, 1869, and has been con- tinued without a break to the present time. It is an invaluable repository of discovery and meuxh recorded from dav to day ; not only in presenting finished resolts. hut the dnfintsned wcirk in progrt-ss Hf^rt- may Ix- read Ojiidcr's kttc-is \srittc-n in the field, the reports of Falmer. Drake, Kitchener, Qennoat- Ganneau, and otbere. with notes by occasional travellers ; speculative nnd controver^i.il papers, nii'! <!l kinds of essays and pttpers on su^ects connected with the lioly Land. It ):> u monument of nilestioiattreseafCli. Unfortunately, a complete edition is very rare, and is worth a jjreai deal It is i.s:>ued free to subscribers, and h priced at as. 6d- to the public. It was edited from 1869 to 1888 by Mr. Walter Besant. :ind is now edited by Dr. Chaplin, for many years Medical Ofiicer in The Survey of Palestine Consists of the follcnving three volumes, uniform in size and appearance with the work en- titled, "The Survey of Western Palestine.'* For price and other particulars see below. The Survey of Eastern Palestine. This Sur- vcv, rommf-nced by Major Conder, and stopped by order of the Turkish Goveroment, consists of 500 square miles. The country b fhQ of Interest, and abounds urith rains of places HiblM a! and riassicil. Amonjf these ruins are most wonderful bclds of dolmens and .stone circles. Major Conder has made drawings of these. They are also Special Surveys of all the most important ruins in the di irict snr\r vcd. The map of the Survey, reduced to the scale of one-third, wtU be added to the volume. All M. I j()r C'ondcr's drawing* and plans, nmnberiiig more than 350. have l>'i ti eiigr.ived. The Mcnjoifa supplied by Major Conder liave been printed under his supervision. Among them are descriptions, with plans and drawings, of Heshbon. Amman ^Rabboth AmnKm). 'Arak el Emh* (the Castle of Hyreanus). the Penlaii bultding formerly considered a I5v/aniine Church, and other interesting remains. This volume is now ready, and tiemg issued to sotaacnberflL Digitized by Google 12 BooU on IteMtfne* The Archsological Mission of M. Clermont- Ganiieau. More than tT. \ears have elapsed since these diawmgs were placed in the hands of the Committee by M. Clemioot-Gaitncaii. Thqr an moat exquisitely drawn by M. Le(X>mte, and are chiefly of architectural value. It Is most desirable that they should no longer be withheld from the world. The only posaible way of paMisliing them it by subscrintion in this ffwrniwifi The blocks are 4H4 in number. Of these about la have already been published, the whole of the rest having remained locked' op, inacoessible to any one bat the membeis of the Cofnmitie& Tlio letterpress will be descriptive of the plates, and not longer than is necessoiy. ^T. ri.rmont-GaniieBawiDMpcrriaethewbolb Thisvolttiiie wiii be lisued shortly. The Flora and Fauna of the Wady Arabah. Mr. Chidiestcr Hart accompanied Professor Hul'. in Ins Geo- logical Expedition as naturalist This volume is ilie uutcome of the journey. It contains — A. An Analysis of the Flora and Fauna of Sinai, with general remarks on iis botany and that of the Dead Sea Basin. tL Cbichesler Hart K Inaeeta. C Monuacs). D. Iteptilia. E. Ave& F« Mammalia As regards the Illustrations to this volume it is enough to state that they will Ire in the same style and equal to those in C anon Tristram's Flora and Fauna of Palestine. These three volumes are not sold separately. The edition is limited to 500 copies, and the type win be dis> tributed immediately after printing. The subscribers to the first edition (250 cojiies) of the "Survqr of Western Palestine." are entitled to receive these volumes at the reduced price of £7 7s. No copies frill be disposed of under the price of £77*, ihc sou The 6ni 350 subscribers are entitled to the reduction in pri<^. whether they be subscriben to the ffrst work or not ; but the piice will be;^i2 I2S. to all subseqai i t suhscrilxTs, UttleSS tbC^ are subscribers to the " Survryof Western Palestine" JlluUrated Circular f^ivim; furl her particuiars willbi sattf post JrcCf on appluatum. Digitized by Google ISooto on t^ale0nne. 13 The Survey of Western Palestine. Less than 20 sets of this magnificent work now remnin. The price of these has be^n fixed at 25 guineas each. The set will never be reprinted, with the exception of the two volumes ** Flora and Fauna ** and ** Jerusalem." It consists of the follow- ing in seven uniform volumes. 4to. The Memoirs. Being the Notes taken in the Field by Major Conder, D.C.L.. R.E., and Colonel Kitchener, C. M. G, , A. D, C. R. EL , re-written and arranged after their return. With hundreds of illustrations of tombs, ruins. &c., drawn expressly for these volumes, aod not to be found anywhere else. 3 vols. The Name Lists. Transliterated from the Arabic with translation by Major Condct, lx.lL, and edited by Professor £. H. Fdmer. i voL The Volume of Special Papers. Consisting mostly ofreprints of important papers from th<' "Quarterly State- ment," bvCo!. Sir Charles Wilson. K.C.B.. K.C.M.G.. F.R S., D. C.L., LL.I>.. R.E. : Col. Sir Charles Warrt-n. G.( .M.G.. K.C.B.. F k.S., R IC. ; M.ijor Conder, D CL., R.E.; M. Clermont-Gannf-iu, Mr. Gre%'ille Cliesti-r, cScc. i vol. The Flora and Fauna of Palestine. With vumf IBnstnitfons (hand-painted). By Canoa Trislnua* LL.D., F. R.s. I vol. Vh)^ volume may be had sepuatdy. For further jxirlicukirs sec j>.iK«" o. The Jerusalem Volume. With a Portfolio of 50 Plates. By Col, Sir Charles Warren, G.C.M.G., and Major Conder, D.C.I-., K. 1.. i vol. This volume may be IukI separately. For price and all particulars aec page 8. The Maps. At$ ^hniratid CitxtUar gn/iHg att i^(Brwiatim mitaii ikd ahmn naill ie sen/, f^a free, on appU€^wm^ Digitized by Google 14 Medical Publications, Greville MacDonald, M.D. Lond A Treatise on Diseases of the Nose, with Cliroiiiolirlioijraphs, numerous Woodcuts, and Plates. In 1 vol. i^ost 8vo. Cloih extra. Ready early in February, Nasal Obstruction, in Relation to Throat and Ear Disease. In i vol. Demy 8vo, with two plates, 5s. ** Where many specialists have In their writings made con- fusion worse confounded, Dr. MacDonald has attempted, and we thinlc with success, to m.ikt- inatters i)lain iJmling with a matter with which the general practitioner is but little aequainted, Dr. MaeDonald has supplied materiab for teeitrate diagnosis and prompt and offectual treatment, and in sucli a way as to be within the grasp of those who have no special training in tbe Und of work tiMted of in fbe book."— FAr On the Respiratory Functions of the Nose, and their Rel ninn to certain Pathological ConditioilS. In I vol. Demy 8vo. Illustrated. 5s. Board School Laryngitis. Second Edition. Demy 8v& Paper covers, is. Health. A Journal of Domestic and Sanitary Science for Lay Readers. Published every Friday, price 2d. Edited by Dr. Andrew Wilson, F.R.S.E. To be bad of all newsagents, and at all railway l)onl: stalls. Bonuses arc given to yearly subscribers oi 10s. iod., entitling them to receive Health/' post free, for one year. For particulars sec ** Health." Health " is written in plain and non- technical language, and in a thoroughly popular style, thus adapting itself ror Ibe instmction of all cumet in saniuuy and healtti science. Digitized by Google i|2e\D 2Dittiondt:u0« 15 John S. Farmer. Slang and its Analogues. In 3 vols. Fools- cap 4to, printed in antique style, to the number of 500 copies for England, and 250 for America, each copy being numbered and signed. The set, in half calf, parchment sides, 5 5 s. Vol. i is now ready, and being issued to subscribers. A dictionary, historical and comparative, (on the lines of Dr. Murray's New Kngli>-h Dictionary) of tb-' Ix'terodux Speech of all cbsses of society for more than 300 years. With Synonyms In English. Prendi, German, Ilaltan. && *'For the first time in a diciioiuiry llic iuljjcci of English llmjp (i leriously treated Recent works h<ive been catch- pennies, and Mr. Fanner is the first to treat the subject of slanff In a manner commensurate with its importance. .... His book commends itself warmly to onr readers, and its pro^'rrss cannot be otherwise than interesting. U is artisticaUy eot up, and its tme and paper are all thai can be desired. As n is issued in a fimited edition it cnn scarcely fail of becoming a prised pos- session."— AW^J <7«</ Quertes. A Proi pectus givimg fttrtker partiatiars toiii it tmt 0m application. Americanisms : Old and . New. In I voL Foolscap 4t(>, printed in antique style, and bound in velliun. 2S. A book for the library. disJ^, or general reading; for journalists, Members of Parliamt*nt. putiUc speakers, and idl professional men. It is a dictionary of words, phrases, and coUofjuialisms peculiar to the I "nitrd Stat- s, I?riti-.Ii Anicrica, the West Indies, &c., &c., together with their derivation, meaning, and application. *' Certainly the best and completest dictioiury of American- isms at present exisiiaf .**— itfM««r«jrM. A Prasfectui giving Jmrther partituiars totli i>e ani en That " advice gratis is never valued," is an old sayini^ ; but there is one prooi iliat the n-mark is nor always true. Tlus is shown by the success of " Our Letter Box," which is a depart- ment of ** Health " wherein space Is devoted cvei j week to tbo publication of corres|><)iicIfnce on tu-alih matters. H<tp. also, queries from readers relating to general, sanitary, and medica] matlMt will find their npOm. A Satchel Guide. For the Vacation Tourist in Europe. Roan tiexible. Small 8vo, 6s. 'J'horoughly revised throughout, and printed from entirdy new idates, and furnishing a compact Illaamiy of the Briiiu l5:< >. I3elgiuin and Holland. Germany snd the Rhine. Aualrla and Italy, Switzerland and France. With maps of Great Britain and Ireland, Continental Europe. Switaerlaod. Street Plans of London and r.ut^. ThtvcUen Calendar of Eodcclas- tical and Popular I'eblivals. '* Wo know of no European Guidc-book which !>o admirably eombines brevity, accuracy, completeness, convenience of shape; tad taataful nechaaical execution, "-•/'ai/ JUaii Gaut^ HMtawnow k. SrALBiNG, IVintm, 3 A Si MaiykboM Lsae, Loado^ W Digitized by Google Digitized by Googl STANFORD UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES STANFORD AUXILIARY LIBRARY STANFORD, CALIFORNIA 94305-6004 (415) 723-9201 All books may be recalled after 7 days 7G JUN DATE DUE INS APR 6 V^ii} 2001
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