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| Wallingford | |
|---|---|
| Market town andcivil parish | |
 Wallingford Bridge with St Peter's Church | |
 Wallingford Town Council coat of arms | |
  Wallingford Location withinOxfordshire | |
| Area | 3.10 sq mi (8.0 km2) |
| Population | 11,600 [1] |
| • Density | 3,742/sq mi (1,445/km2) |
| OS grid reference | SU6089 |
| • London | 44 miles (71 km) |
| Civil parish |
|
| District | |
| Shire county | |
| Region | |
| Country | England |
| Sovereign state | United Kingdom |
| Post town | Wallingford |
| Postcode district | OX10 |
| Dialling code | 01491 |
| Police | Thames Valley |
| Fire | Oxfordshire |
| Ambulance | South Central |
| UK Parliament | |
| Website | Wallingford Town Council |
| |
Wallingford (/ˈwɒlɪŋfərd/) is a historicmarket town andcivil parish on theRiver Thames inSouth Oxfordshire,England, 12 miles (19 km) north of Reading, 13 miles (21 km) south of Oxford and 11 miles (18 km) north west ofHenley-on-Thames. Although belonging to thehistoric county ofBerkshire, it is within theceremonial county ofOxfordshire for administrative purposes (since 1974) as a result of theLocal Government Act 1972. The population was 11,600 at the2011 census.[1]
The town has played an important role in English history starting with the surrender ofStigand toWilliam the Conqueror in 1066, which led to his taking the throne and the creation ofWallingford Castle. The castle and the town enjoyed royal status and flourished for much of theMiddle Ages. TheTreaty of Wallingford, which ended a civil war known asThe Anarchy betweenKing Stephen andEmpress Matilda, was signed there. The town then entered a period of decline after the arrival of theBlack Death and falling out of favour with theTudor monarchs before being called on once again during theEnglish Civil War. Wallingford held out as the last remainingRoyalist stronghold inBerkshire before surrendering after a 16-week siege. Fearing that Wallingford Castle could be used in a future uprising,Oliver Cromwell ordered its destruction.
Since then Wallingford has become amarket town and centre of local commerce. At the centre of the town is amarket square with thewar memorial andWallingford Town Hall to the south, theCorn Exchange theatre to the east and numerous shops around the edges. Off the square there are alleyways and streets with more shops and a number of historicinns.[2] Although it was a small town, Wallingford once had 14 churches; now, there are three ancient churches within theParish ofSt Mary-le-More andSt Leonard, a modernRoman Catholic church, aQuaker Meeting House dating from 1724 andBaptist,Methodist and community churches.
The place-name first appears asWælingford in aSaxoncharter of 821, asWelingaford around 891 and asWalingeford in theDomesday Book of 1086. A number of etymologies have been proposed and the name has been the subject of debate for centuries.
BothWilliam Camden andSamuel Lewis state that the modern English name ultimately derives from a preexistingBrythonic name for the site. Camden gives this name as "Gual Hen", with Lewis giving "Guallen", withsound changes meaning the word became "Walling" inOld English with the element "ford" being suffixed at a later time. If either derivation is correct, the modern English name would mean "ford at the old fortification".[3][4]Eilert Ekwall andJohn Richard Green derive Wallingford as the ford of "Wealh's or Walhaz people", meaning "Ford of the Welsh people" (British speaking Celts).[5][6]
Wallingford developed around an importantcrossing point of theRiver Thames. There is evidence ofRoman activity in the area who have left traces of occupation, burials, roads, coins and pottery. TheAnglo-Saxons built the first settlement. Wallingford has been fortified since theAnglo-Saxon period when it was an important fortified borough ofWessex with the right tomint royal coinage. It was enclosed with substantial earthworks by KingAlfred the Great in the ninth century as part of a network of fortified towns known asburhs, or burghs, to protect Wessex against theVikings. These defences can still be clearly discerned as a group of four roughly square areas around the centre of the town and are well-preserved. Wallingford became the chief town ofBerkshire and the seat of the county'sEaldorman.
During theNorman Conquest in 1066, theAnglo-Saxon lordWigod allowedWilliam the Conqueror's invading armies into Wallingford to rest and to cross theThames unopposed. It was in Wallingford thatStigand theArchbishopric of Canterbury surrendered and submitted to William, thereby all but ending opposition to William's ascent to the throne. From Wallingford, William with Stigand and his armies rode east toBerkhamsted, where he received the final surrender from Edgar and the rest of the English leadership before marching onLondon for his coronation onChristmas Day. At that time, the river at Wallingford was the lowest point at which the river could beforded. The town subsequently stood in high favour with theNormans asWallingford Castle was built soon afterward on the orders of William, and became a key strategic centre controlling the Thames crossing and surrounding area.[7] TheDomesday Book of 1086 lists Wallingford as one of only 18 towns in the kingdom with a population of over 2,000 people.[citation needed]
Wallingford Priory, also known as Holy Trinity Priory, is believed to have stood on the site of the Bull Croft recreation ground off the High Street. ThisBenedictinepriory was established on land granted toSt Albans Abbey in 1097 byHenry I, andGeoffrey the Chamberlain gave the priory toSt Albans Paul, 14th Abbot of St Albans, who sent some of hismonks to establish a cell there. Wallingford Priory produced the mathematicianRichard of Wallingford and the chronicler John of Wallingford.
Wallingford provided refuge for theEmpress Matilda's party during thecivil war that began after her fatherHenry I's death. After the fall ofOxford Castle toStephen in 1141, Matilda fled to Wallingford, according to some historic accounts in the snow under a moonlit sky.[8]Wallingford Castle was besieged unsuccessfully a number of times, with theTreaty of Wallingford ending the conflict there in November 1153.
The town was granted aRoyal Charter in 1155 by the new king,Henry II, being the second town inEngland to receive one.
During Prince John's unsuccessful revolt against his brother KingRichard I whilst Richard was involved with theThird Crusade, John seizedWallingford Castle in 1189. The rebellion failed, and John was forced to return the castle to the king's administrators.[8]King John reclaimed the castle after his inheriting the crown in 1199. John modernised, fortified and greatly enlarged the Castle and used it extensively during theFirst Barons' War.[8]
The town declined in importance from the mid-13th century, when its size and population reduced. The town received a further blow when plague arrived in 1343. It severely damaged the town and its population; the number of churches declined from eleven (during the reign of King Henry II) to only four by the 15th century.[7] The castle declined subsequently, much stone being removed to renovateWindsor Castle.
The road fromLondon toGloucestershire passed through Wallingford, and the town flourished as a trading centre throughout most of theMiddle Ages. The road was diverted, and a bridge was constructed atAbingdon. The opening ofAbingdon Bridge and loss of traffic that the road had brought caused the town to enter a steep economic decline.[7]
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In 1422 Wallingford and its castle was granted toCatherine of Valois, widowed Queen ofHenry V. Catherine lived at Wallingford with her sonHenry VI, who was tutored there. While she lived at Wallingford, Catherine metOwen Tudor, whom she later married in secret. Catherine and Owen's eldest sonEdmund Tudor fatheredHenry VII who defeatedRichard III atBosworth Field and founded theTudor Dynasty.
One of the last documented uses of Wallingford as a royal residence was during 1518. Letters betweenCardinal Wolsey and his secretaryRichard Pace discussKing Henry VIII's dissatisfaction with Wallingford and his desire to move on.[9] Thepriory was dissolved in 1525 by Cardinal Wolsey, partly in order to fund the building of theCardinal College in Oxford.[9] Henry VIII separated theHonour of Wallingford, which included rights of control over the town and its castle, from theDuchy of Cornwall in 1540.
He combined it with theHonour of Ewelme, which included the rights over his existing residence and lands atEwelme. Ewelme is two miles from Wallingford, so this was done to consolidate control in the area. In return Henry transferred as compensation several areas of Cornish property into theDuchy of Cornwall for Prince Edward.[9] After taking control of Wallingford in 1540,King Henry VIII did not favour choosingWallingford Castle as an official residence. Instead, he opted to transfer materials from it toWindsor to enlarge & improve his own castle there. This practice of dismantling Wallingford Castle to improveWindsor Castle was continued in the reigns ofEdward VI,Mary I &Elizabeth I.[9]
Maintenance and repair ofWallingford Castle during theEnglish Civil War was vital to the success of theRoyalists' plans. The royal headquarters were inOxford, which made the defence of Wallingford, which controlled the area to the south, especially strategically important. In August 1643 ColonelBlagge was granted warrants from theKing andPrince Rupert to collect taxes fromReading and other local towns in order to proceed with the repairs.[9] In April 1643 the king marched south from Wallingford in order to relieve Reading, which was besieged by theEarl of Essex. TheParliamentary army was 16,000 strong and laid siege to Reading using cannons. Reading was unable to hold out long enough for the King and Prince Rupert to arrive and break the siege. The town surrendered on 27 April 1643, with "thegarrison joining the royal army and together they retreated through Wallingford back to Oxford".[9]
In 1643 a group ofParliamentary commissioners came to Wallingford in search of an audience with theKing.Blagge received them, with the encounter being recorded as "worrying".[9] "He received them, 'not rudely, but with haughtiness enough,' sending a troop of horse to escort them as if they had been prisoners. High words followed; the commissioners feared they might have had their throats cut by the garrison and gladly took their leave of the 'proud governour."[9] 4 October 1643 was the last time the king and queen visited the town together, although they did visitAbingdon, staying at Barton Lodge on 17 April 1644. It was also the last time that anyBritish king and queen stayed at the castle together, owing to its destruction at the end of the war.[10] By May 1644 the war had turned decidedly against theRoyalists inBerkshire, and a failure of communications among the commanders left Abingdon open to occupation by theParliamentarians. General Waller took the town and thegarrison retreated to Wallingford.[10]
After theSecond Battle of Newbury on 27 October 1644, where neither side had gained a true victory,King Charles I retreated through Wallingford on his way toOxford.[10] Although his retreat went initially unchallenged, the next day at a meeting of the War Council it was resolved thatCromwell, Balfour and SirArthur Hesilrige were to be allowed to take cavalry to pursue the King. They were too late, and by the time they reached Wallingford, they found theRoyalists had already advanced to Oxford, with the castle blocking their path. It was annoyance at missing an opportunity to capture the king that led to Cromwell forming hisNew Model Army.[10]
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The first assault on the town was led by Colonel Baxter, the governor ofReading in 1645. However, finding that the fortifications exceeded his expectations, he retreated quickly to Reading.[10] By the end of 1645 the situation had worsened, with the king's defeat at theBattle of Naseby byGeneral Fairfax. By this point Wallingford,Faringdon andDonnington were the only strongholds still loyal to the king in the county ofBerkshire. The king held up atOxford for the winter, with the intention of riding south to relieve and retake positions in Berkshire, but the failure of reinforcements to arrive from the west and the imminent threat of siege by General Fairfax forced him to flee north. The siege of Wallingford was begun on 4 May 1646 by General Fairfax; theParliamentarians laid siege to Oxford on 11 May.
Oxford held out until 24 June, when thegarrison of 3,000 men including the king's nephews,Prince Rupert andPrince Maurice, were marched out of the city with full honours. Now only Wallingford remained, its garrison faithfully holding the town and castle for the king under the leadership of ColonelBlagge. However, his position was now impossible to hold, with the town being blockaded on all sides. It was only a matter of time, but still Blagge held that he would not surrender without the king's order and even threatened to set fire to the town during a full assault.[10]
AParliamentary special council met and decided that the difficulty of any full assault would cause unacceptable losses. Waiting and trying to starveBlagge out would give the king time to build his forces. They were also very concerned that they were risking making a martyr of the town to theRoyalist cause inBerkshire if the townspeople suffered too much, either in a prolonged siege or an assault. The council resolved to draw up preferential terms for Wallingford's surrender. Initially, Blagge refused even these with the same answer that he would need the king's consent to surrender the town. However, by July, with the king's surrender to the Scotch Army and Wallingford now being the only stronghold in Berkshire still loyal to the crown, he knew that there would be no relief or reinforcements.
The blockade had over time also been tightened, and with the prospect of desertion and mutiny from his starving soldiers,Blagge was forced to reopen negotiations. The terms of Blagge's surrender were drawn up on 22 July 1646.General Fairfax respected Blagge as a fellow soldier for his work in resurrecting the castle for the war, and for the manner in which he chose to hold for as long as possible instead of surrendering. Fairfax therefore still granted Blagge the original favourable terms of surrender he was offered, even though the situation had changed. The surrender stipulated that the town and its castle would be surrendered to General Fairfax on 29 July and that all of the town's arms, ordinance and provisions of war would be handed over to Fairfax.
Blagge and hisgarrison would then be allowed to march out of the town with full honours, and allowed to leave with their horses, arms and baggage. They would then be permitted to march ten miles out of the town before disbanding. Blagge was, however, forced in the end to surrender the castle toGeneral Fairfax early on the 27th after a mutiny broke out within the garrison. Fairfax sent a regiment into the town to restore order, and the garrison's exit was made unimpeded. Only two castles now remained supporting theroyalist cause,Raglan andPendennis, and they both fell by August. A new governor, Evelyn, was installed, although he petitioned for the immediate destruction of the castle.Parliament instead decided to use it for the imprisonment ofPresbyterian prisoners after thePrides Purge.
Continued turmoil, unrest in the country and a fear that the residents of Wallingford were still loyal to the crown causedOliver Cromwell to fear that Wallingford Castle could again be fortified against him in a future uprising. On 17 November 1652, theCouncil of State decided thatWallingford Castle should be "forthwith demolished and the workes thereto belonging effectually slighted."[9] Materials from the castle were used again for improvement works atWindsor Castle and for the repair and improvement of the church ofSt Mary-le-More.[9]
Sir William Blackstone, a famous Englishjurist,judge andTory politician lived in Wallingford and held the office ofRecorder of the town. The Blackstone family owned an estate in and around Wallingford, and William, upon inheriting it, built a house called Castle Priory to live in. William is most noted for writing theCommentaries on the Laws of England; these are noted for their influence on theAmerican Constitution. Sir William died in Wallingford in 1780 and is buried inSt Peter's Church.
By the end of the 18th century, theParliamentary Borough of Wallingford was known as being one of the worstrotten boroughs. During theReform Act 1832, the constituency borders were increased geographically, and the number ofMPs cut from two to one.
On 9 September 1944 aHalifax bomber ofNo. 426 Squadron RCAF, returning from an abandoned raid over the French port ofLe Havre while still carrying a full bomb load, caught fire over Wallingford after its port outer engine exploded. Ordering most of his crew to bail out, the pilot, 23-year-oldFlying Officer John Archibald Wilding, and his flight engineer, 22-year-old Sergeant John Francis Andrew, remained at the controls in order to steer the plane away from the town, crashing into the fields atNewnham Murren and thus preventing the possible loss of many civilian lives. Both Wilding and Andrew werementioned in dispatches for their bravery, with Wilding being posthumously awarded theDistinguished Flying Cross.[11] They are commemorated by a memorial at the junction of Wilding Road and Andrew Road in Wallingford and by theCanadian flag that is flown over Wallingford Town Hall every year on 9 September in their memory.[12]
Paul's Malt on Hithercroft Road, built in 1958, was demolished in 2001; thus the malting industry ended, which had been key to Wallingford for hundreds of years. At one time there were at least 17maltings in the town.[citation needed]
Wallingford Bridge is amedieval road bridge over theRiver Thames connecting Wallingford toCrowmarsh Gifford. Wallingford has historically been an important crossing point of the Thames owing to the presence of aford which was used before the construction of a bridge. This ford was used byWilliam the Conqueror and his armies on his journey toLondon after his victory atHastings in 1066. The first reference to a bridge is from 1141 whenKing Stephen besiegedWallingford Castle. The first stone bridge is credited toRichard, 1st Earl of Cornwall, and four remaining arches are believed to contain 13th-century elements.
Major repairs used stone from the dissolvedHoly Trinity Priory in 1530. Four arches were removed so that adrawbridge could be inserted during the siege of the castle in theCivil War of 1646, and these were replaced with timber structures until repair in 1751. Following a flood, three arches were rebuilt by Richard Clarke from 1810–1812 to a design by John Treacher (1760–1836) developed in 1809, and aparapet andbalustrade added. The street lights on the bridge were made in the town and feature the Wilder mark on the base.
Wallingford Castle was a majormedievalcastle. Established in the 11th century as amotte-and-bailey design within anAnglo-Saxonburgh, it grew to become what historianNicholas Brooks has described as "one of the most powerful royal castles of the 12th and 13th centuries". DuringThe Anarchy the castle held theEmpress Matilda and her son the futureKing Henry II. It was the site of the signing of theTreaty of Wallingford, which began the end of the conflict and set the path to a negotiated peace. Over the next two centuries Wallingford became a luxurious castle, used by royalty and their immediate family. After being abandoned as a royal residence byHenry VIII, the castle fell into decline.
Refortified during theEnglish Civil War, Wallingford was held as aRoyalist stronghold commanded by ColonelThomas Blagge. In 1645 GeneralThomas Fairfax placedWallingford Castle under siege; after 16 weeks, during whichOxford fell toParliamentary forces, the castle finally surrendered in July 1646 under generous terms for the defenders. The risk of civil conflict continued, however, andOliver Cromwell decided that it was necessary toslight the castle in 1652, as it remained a surprisingly powerful fortress and a continuing threat should any fresh uprising occur.
The castle was virtually razed to the ground in the operation, although a brick building continued to be used as a prison into the 18th century. A large house was built in thebailey in 1700, followed by aGothic mansion house on the same site in 1837. The mansion, abandoned due to rising costs, was demolished in 1972, allowingWallingford Castle to be declared ascheduled monument as well as aGrade I listed building. The castle grounds, including the remains ofSt Nicholas College, sections of the castle wall and themotte hill, are now open to the public.
An earlier church on the site ofSt Peter's Church was destroyed in 1646 during the siege of Wallingford in theCivil War. Building of the present church started in 1763, the contractors being William Toovey and Joseph Tuckwell. In 1767 the interior of the church was paved,pews were added and the exterior wasstuccoed under the supervision ofSir Robert Taylor. Aspire designed by Taylor was added in 1776–77. A local resident,Sir William Blackstone, a lawyer and author of theCommentaries on the Laws of England, took an interest in the building of the spire and paid for the clock face visible from his house. Thechancel was built in 1904, designed by Sydney Stephenson.[13] The church was declaredredundant on 1 May 1971, and wasvested in theChurches Conservation Trust on 26 July 1972.[14] St Peter's is the final resting place of Sir William Blackstone, who is buried in his family vault under the church.[15]
The Church ofSt Mary-le-More is located in a prominent position in the town square behind Wallingford Town Hall. The church appears in records from 1077, when theadvowson belonged toSt Alban's Abbey.[16] The westbell tower was originally 12th century, but its upper stages were rebuilt in aPerpendicular Gothic style[16] out of the stone fromWallingford Castle when it was demolished byOliver Cromwell after theCivil War. Thenave andaisle were built in the 13th and 14th century, and thechancel was built later. However, all were rebuilt in 1854 to designs by theGothic Revival architectDavid Brandon.[9]
The west window of the northaisle hasstained glass made in 1856 byThomas Willement. Thepulpit was made in 1888 by the sculptorOnslow Ford. The church tower features aring of ten bells.[17] A ring of eight including the tenor was cast in 1738 byRichard Phelps and Thomas Lester of theWhitechapel Bell Foundry.[17] Mears and Stainbank of the Whitechapel Bell Foundry re-cast the second bell of that ring, now the fourth bell of the present ring, in 1887,[17] the year of theGolden Jubilee ofQueen Victoria. In 2003 the Whitechapel Bell Foundry cast a new treble and second bell,[17] increasing the number of bells to ten.
St Leonard’s is the oldest church and is regarded as the oldest surviving place of worship in Wallingford.[18] There has been a church on the site sinceSaxon times, when it was known as the Church of theHoly Trinity the Lesser. The current building still features distinctive Saxon stone work in theherringbone style around the north wall. Estimates for the start of construction point as early as the 6th century.Parliamentary forces used the church as a barracks during the Siege of Wallingford in 1656. Their occupation caused substantial damage to the building. Repair works were only completed in 1700 when it reopened.
John Henry Hakewill directed a reconstruction of the church in 1849, although the Church was rebuilt in theGothic Revival style the restoration works preserved large sections of the originalSaxon Building. The church interior is noted for a series of four angelmurals painted in 1889 by acclaimed artistGeorge Dunlop Leslie who at the time lived on Thames Street. The Church now forms part of theParish ofSt Mary-le-More with services being held on Sundays.
Wallingford war memorial was designed by Edward Guy Dawber and William Honeybone,[19] and unveiled in 1921.First World War (1914–1918) – Total names on memorial: 81.[19] After 1945 the memorial was updated withSecond World War (1939–1945) dates and names added to the base of the memorial – Total names on memorial: 36.[19] The inscription reads:
TO THE GLORY OF GOD AND IN HONOURED AND GRATEFUL MEMORY OF THE MEN OF WALLINGFORD WHO LAID DOWN THEIR LIVES IN THE GREAT WAR 1914–1918. THEIR NAME LIVETH FOR EVERMORE
PASS NOT THIS STONE IN SORROW
NO SORROW BUT IN PRIDE
AND STRIVE TO LIVE
AS NOBLY AS THEY DIED[19]
The memorial is Grade IIlisted.[20]
The Kinecroft was known as the Canecroft in the 13th and 14th centuries, and in the 16th and 17th centuries as Kenny Croft. It comprises an open area of about seven acres surrounded on the south and western sides by ancientSaxon earthworks and formed part of the defensive fortifications of the town when it was an importantBurh in the kingdom ofWessex. Events held in the Kinecroft includeBonfire Night,BunkFest, The Vintage Car Rally, The Wallingford Festival ofCycling and The Circus.
The Bull Croft is an open area within the town'sSaxon defences. During the Saxon period theParish Church of theHoly Trinity stood in the southwestern part of the present Bull Croft and by 1085 it had been taken over by the great abbey ofSt Albans and became part of the newWallingford Priory. When the Priory was torn down byCardinal Wolsey in 1525, the area was used as farming. The Bull Croft was given to the town in trust by Mr Powyss Lybbe in 1912 and is now used as a public park. Facilities on the site include a children's play area,tennis courts andfootball pitches.
Wallingford Town Hall was constructed in 1670 and is located on the southern side of themarket square with the War Memorial in front and the church ofSt Mary-le-More behind. The main hall and council chambers are on the first floor and feature a coved ceiling installed in 1887 to commemorateQueen Victoria's Jubilee. The building currently hosts the Town Council for meetings and civic events. The balcony is used by the town's Mayor at annual events. The ground floor has the town'sTourist Information Office, and, until the corn exchange was built in 1856, the open area under the hall was used for the town's corn market. The hall is open to all residents as a venue for private hire.[21]
TheCorn Exchange dates to 1856. The iron arches supporting the roof of the building were cast at the Wilders Foundry on Goldsmiths Lane.[9] After theSecond World War the Social Security Ministry used the Building as a food and unemployment office before it fell into disuse. It was purchased by the Sinodun players in 1975 for use as a theatre.[22] They dedicated it toAgatha Christie, who was president of the society from 1951 to 1976.[23] The Corn Exchange & Sinodun Players were awarded theQueen's Award for Voluntary Service in 2020.[24]
Winterbrook House was the home of authorAgatha Christie and her husbandMax Mallowan from 1934 until her death in 1976 and his in 1978. It is believed[according to whom?] that she based the home of her characterMiss Marple, Danemead in the village of St. Mary Mead, on Winterbrook House. The house is privately owned and is part of the Agatha Christie Trail.
A permanent bronze memorial to Agatha Christie was placed in front of the Wallingford Museum during September- 2023, as sculpted by Ben Twiston-Davies. It depicts her in later life seated on a bench holding a book.
Wallingford Museum has collections of local interest and is housed in thegrade II listedTudor Flint House in the High Street. Flint House is a mid-16th-century timber-framed house with a 17th-century flintfaçade. It faces the Kinecroft, an open space in Wallingford which is bordered on two sides byAnglo-Saxonburh defences built in the 9th century. It is owned by Wallingford Town Council.
The museum has an extensive collection relating to the town's history. Displays include archaeology,Wallingford Castle, and the town inmedieval andVictorian times.
Built in 1869 by Richard Wilder the new foundry was built to support the existing foundry on Fish Street. By this time there was rapidly increasing demand for the towns of cast iron working and equipment so more capacity was essential.[25] The Building was decommissioned in 1983 and was converted into residential flats by 1984.
There are three tiers of local government covering Wallingford, atcivil parish (town),district, andcounty level: Wallingford Town Council,South Oxfordshire District Council, andOxfordshire County Council. The town council meets at the Town Hall and has its offices at 8A Castle Street.[26]
Wallingford was anancient borough. It was a borough by the time of theDomesday Book in 1086, at which time it was the largest town inBerkshire. Its firstmunicipal charter was granted in 1156.[27] The borough was subdivided into the four parishes of All Hallows, St Leonard, St Mary-le-More, and St Peter.[28]
The borough was reformed to become amunicipal borough in 1836 under theMunicipal Corporations Act 1835, which standardised how most boroughs operated across the country.[29] All the parishes in the borough were united into a single civil parish of Wallingford in 1919.[30]
The borough of Wallingford was abolished in 1974 under theLocal Government Act 1972, which also transferred Wallingford to Oxfordshire. District-level functions formerly performed by the borough council passed to the new South Oxfordshire District Council.[31] The government initially proposed calling the new district 'Wallingford', but the shadow council elected in 1973 to oversee the transition requested a change of name to 'South Oxfordshire', which was approved by the government before the new district formally came into being.[32][33]
Asuccessor parish covering the area of the former borough was created in 1974, with its council taking the name Wallingford Town Council.[34][35]
Since 2024, Wallingford has formed part of theDidcot and Wantage constituency.[36]
There was aWallingford constituency until 1885. From 1295 until 1832 it covered just the borough. In 1832, it was enlarged to cover several adjoining parts of Berkshire.[37]
As with the rest of theBritish Isles andOxfordshire, Wallingford experiences amaritime climate with cool summers and mild winters. There has been a weather station at the nearbyCentre for Ecology & Hydrology collecting data on the local climate since 1961. Temperature extremes at Wallingford vary from −21.0 °C (−5.8 °F) recorded in January 1982[38] to 35.2 °C (95.4 °F) recorded in July 2006.[39] Recent low temperatures include −17.6 °C (0.3 °F) during January 2010[40] and −17.5 °C (0.5 °F) during December 2010.[41]
| Climate data for Wallingford 67m asl, 1971–2000, Extremes 1960– (Sunshine Benson 1961–2000) | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Record high °C (°F) | 14.8 (58.6) | 17.9 (64.2) | 22.2 (72.0) | 26.8 (80.2) | 29.0 (84.2) | 33.9 (93.0) | 35.2 (95.4) | 35.1 (95.2) | 29.4 (84.9) | 25.0 (77.0) | 17.9 (64.2) | 15.2 (59.4) | 35.2 (95.4) |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | 7.0 (44.6) | 7.5 (45.5) | 10.2 (50.4) | 12.7 (54.9) | 16.6 (61.9) | 19.5 (67.1) | 22.3 (72.1) | 22.0 (71.6) | 18.6 (65.5) | 14.3 (57.7) | 10.0 (50.0) | 7.8 (46.0) | 14.0 (57.3) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | 1.2 (34.2) | 1.0 (33.8) | 2.6 (36.7) | 3.8 (38.8) | 6.7 (44.1) | 9.6 (49.3) | 11.9 (53.4) | 11.8 (53.2) | 9.7 (49.5) | 6.8 (44.2) | 3.5 (38.3) | 2.1 (35.8) | 5.9 (42.6) |
| Record low °C (°F) | −21.0 (−5.8) | −13.2 (8.2) | −11.1 (12.0) | −6.6 (20.1) | −3.3 (26.1) | −2.2 (28.0) | 2.0 (35.6) | 1.1 (34.0) | −2.8 (27.0) | −5.5 (22.1) | −9.6 (14.7) | −17.5 (0.5) | −21 (−6) |
| Averageprecipitation mm (inches) | 56.36 (2.22) | 38.54 (1.52) | 43.76 (1.72) | 46.54 (1.83) | 50.09 (1.97) | 52.66 (2.07) | 38.44 (1.51) | 53.64 (2.11) | 56.71 (2.23) | 58.98 (2.32) | 57.91 (2.28) | 61.46 (2.42) | 615.09 (24.2) |
| Mean monthlysunshine hours | 52.7 | 67.8 | 114.7 | 150.0 | 198.4 | 201.0 | 210.8 | 192.2 | 147.0 | 102.3 | 66.0 | 46.5 | 1,549.4 |
| Source 1:Royal Dutch Meteorological Institute[42] | |||||||||||||
| Source 2: RMets[43] | |||||||||||||
TheRiver Thames has been a transport route for centuries, and Wallingford's growth as a town relied partly on it. Coal was supplied fromNorth East England bycoaster toLondon and then bybarge upriver to Wallingford. This supply could be unreliable in seasons when river currents were too strong or water levels were too low. In 1789 theOxford Canal reachedOxford fromWarwickshire, and the Duke's Cut atWolvercote gave it a connection to the Thames.[44] This allowed coal from theMidlands to reach Wallingford by a shorter and more reliable route than by sea and river from the northeast. In 1799 the Oxford Canal consolidated its commercial position by buying an 80-year lease on a wharf on the Thames just aboveWallingford Bridge.[45]
Chalmore Lock, a summer or low-waterlock andweir, was built at Chalmore Hole, Wallingford in 1838, However, much of the time the fall was only 18 inches, and the lock was open at both ends. It fell into disrepair, and the lock was removed in 1883. The missing lock is the subject of confusion inJerome K. Jerome's "Three Men in a Boat".[46] A ferry had operated at the site from 1787 to transport horses across the river where the towpath changed banks. As the removal of the lock and weir meant that this was the longest clear stretch of the upper river, it was an ideal site for rowing, so theOxford University Boat Club which had long trained here built a boathouse at Chalmore in 2006. In addition to the oldWallingford Bridge, a new bridge was built atWinterbrook in 1993 to carry theA4130 bypass around Wallingford.
The closest regular railway station to Wallingford isCholsey, about three miles away. TheCholsey and Wallingford Railway is aheritage railway which runs along the old branch line between Cholsey and Wallingford.
The main line of theGreat Western Railway passes to the south of Wallingford. A station calledWallingford Road opened with the line in 1840, but it was some 3 miles (4.8 km) away from the town itself, in open countryside between the villages ofCholsey andMoulsford.[47]
On 2 July 1866 theWallingford and Watlington Railway (W&WR) was opened between Wallingford Road station (which was renamed Moulsford station at the same time) and a newWallingford station, on the western side of the town. The plan had been to continue the branch line toWatlington, but in May 1866, theOverend, Gurney & Co bank had crashed, causing one of the severest financial crises of the 19th century. Thebank rate was raised to ten percent, which made it impossible for the W&WR to raise the capital for its planned continuation. The company sold the line to theGreat Western Railway in 1872, and it became known as theWallingford Bunk. The junction station for the branch line was moved from Moulsford to a new station at Cholsey in 1892.British Railways closed the branch line to passengers in 1959 and to goods traffic in 1965, but the track between Hithercroft Road and Cholsey continued in use to serve the now demolishedmaltings until 1981 when BR removed the junction at Cholsey. The branch line was then preserved as theCholsey and Wallingford Railway, which opened a new Wallingford station in 1985 for its tourist services, a short distance south of the original Wallingford station, which had been redeveloped.[48]
All bus services for the town are operated byThames Travel. The 33 operates every hour fromHenley-on-Thames toAbingdon viaNuffield,Nettlebed, Wallingford,Didcot,Sutton Courtenay andCulham.[49] The X40 operates every 30 minutes betweenOxford andReading via Wallingford andWoodcote.[50]
Historically, Wallingford was a centre for local trading in livestock and corn as well as the general trade of other goods. This decreased after the construction of the bridge atAbingdon. The town developed as a centre for the production of iron and machinery in the 18th century; this continued until the 1980s. The brewing industry was important with twobreweries and 17maltings in the town. This link was ended with the demolition of Paul's Malt in 2001. The Lamb arcade was originally known as the Lamb Coaching Inn and in 1980 after being derelict for some years was converted into an Antiques Arcade. Champions hardware store has been serving the residents of the town since 1869.[citation needed]
In 2005,Waitrose moved into a new store in the town centre after occupying an old site in the south of the town for decades. The new store has 22,000 sq ft (2,000 m2) of retail space. ALidl supermarket opened in January 2019 on the Hithercroft Road.[51] The only banking facility left in the town is theNationwide Building Society, There are three cashpoints available in the town. The main employers are primarily on the Hithercroft Trading Estate, established in the 1970s. There are some located at Howbury Park the other side of the river and also atWinterbrook Bridge.Rowse Honey is the UK's largest manufacturer of honey and has been located in the town since 1987, after being founded in the nearby village ofEwelme in 1954.[52] Other businesses are theRoyal Mail,HR Wallingford,Centre for Ecology and Hydrology andFugro. To the south east of the town is the headquarters for thenon-profitagricultural organisationCABI.
A number of sports societies, clubs and associations are co-located at the Wallingford Sports Park.[53] WallingfordHockey Club traces its beginnings to 1894[54] and now comprises nine senior teams as well as the Wallingford Wildcats youth setup. Since 1995 the club has been based in the Wallingford Sports Centre.[54]Wallingford Town F.C. was founded in 1922 is the localfootball club. They currently play in theHellenic Football League, and their home games are played at the Wallingford Sports Centre.
Originally founded in 1967 as Cholsey RFC, the club changed its name to WallingfordRugby Club when it moved to the Hithercroft sports ground in 1997. The club has a senior set up which includes fielding three competitive men's senior teams as a development squad and three women's teams known as the Maidens. The club is still headquartered on the Hithercroft which is now known as the Wallingford Sports Park. There are twoSquash clubs in Wallingford. Wallingford Squash Club is in the town centre and the second is located at the Wallingford Sports Park.Pétanque Wallingford is based at the Park. Wallingford Castle Archers are also based at the Sports Park.[55]
Wallingford Regatta, formerly the WallingfordSkiffRegatta, was the only organised boating competition in 1949 on the longest stretch of theThames betweenlocks (Benson toCleeve Locks). It had taken place every year in peacetime since the late 1890s, and there is evidence that it existed as early as 1861.[citation needed] In 1949 the regatta committee founded theWallingford Rowing Club, which started competing in other regattas. The regatta was developed as a conventional regatta, although it still awards the Wallingford Skiff Regatta Cup. The town hosts the WallingfordRowing Club,[56] theOxford Brookes University Boat Club.[57] and theOxford University Boat Club.[58]
Theregatta was held on the same reach at Wallingford for most of its existence, but river conditions caused problems, and there was a growing need for larger facilities. In 2001 the Regatta moved to a new home atDorney Lake nearWindsor where it is still held. The event is the largest single dayrowing regatta in the UK. In 2008 the newOxford University Boat Club opened in Wallingford. Located on the site of the disused Wallingfordmarina on theThames Path, the building designed by Tuke Manton Architects LLP[59] replaced the club's historic home on theIsis, which was destroyed by fire in 1999.
The Wallingford Festival ofCycling started in 2015 with an attendance of 3000.[60] In 2018British cycling billed the event one of the largest cycling events of the year[61] with events including both the 50 km and 110 km road sportives. In excess of 7500 were expected to attend.[62] The event in 2015 was used as the backdrop for the filming of theMidsomer Murders episode called breaking the Chain. Breaking the Chain was the third episode of the 18th series.[63]
Starting in 2002 in the Cross Keys pub, BunkFest, usually being held in the first week of September, has become the largest free multi-day festival in theUK with an attendance of over 25,000 in 2017.[64] The BunkFest folk musicfestival combines a broad range offolk music,dance displays, abeer festival and the local Bunk steam railway. It is a not-for-profit festival. The festival is intended to appeal to a wide audience. The main stage features light music and dancing during the day and lively folk-rock and world music acts in the evening.
Other venues around the town feature a wide variety of acts, ranging from quiet, contemplative folk artists and singer-songwriters to raucous rock bands. It attracts between thirty and fiftydance sides. The dance programme has includedCotswold and Border Morris,Appalachian and Eastern European forms, as well as traditional Irish, Scottish and Welsh forms.[65] Rug Fest is Wallingford's summermusic festival located at the Wallingford Sport Park on the Hithercroft. Founded in 2008, RugFest took two years off due to site refurbishments, returning in 2018. The 2018 festival was headlined byScouting for Girls.
Founded in 2002 the Wallingford vintage car rally takes place on the Kinecroft in mid May with a parade that includes the whole town. In 2018 the number of cars in the parade increased to over 350, with just over 400 vehicles on show overall.[66] The event is run for local charitable causes and raised £14,000 in 2018, which brought the cumulative total to over £100,000.[67]
Local news and television programmes are provided byBBC South andITV Meridian. Television signals are received from theOxford TV transmitter.[68]
Wallingford local radio stations areBBC Radio Oxford on 95.2 FM,Heart South on 102.6 FM,Greatest Hits Radio on 106.4 FM and Wallingford Radio, a community based radio station that broadcasts on 107.3 FM.[69]
Local newspapers are the Herald Series[70] andOxfordshire Guardian.
St John's (a primary school), Fir Tree, (a junior school), and St Nicholas (an infants' school) are all located within the town itself, with additional primary schools atBrightwell-cum-Sotwell,Cholsey andCrowmarsh Gifford serving the surrounding areas.
Wallingford School is the successor toWallingford Grammar School, founded in 1659 whenWalter Bigg left money for a school in his will. Located to the north of the town, it is an academy school and part of the Merchant Taylors’OxfordshireAcademy Trust. The school provides education for the Wallingford area for boys and girls between the ages of 11 and 18. The majority of pupils from both Fir Tree and St John's continue on to Wallingford School. Wallingford School also draws pupils fromCrowmarsh,Brightwell-cum-Sotwell,Cholsey andWarborough primary schools and occasionallyDidcot primary schools.
Wallingford istwinned with:
Wallingford has an informal link to:
In the town:
Wallingford used to return twoMembers of Parliament (MPs). This was cut to one in 1832 and none in 1885. Its prominent MPs, often not resident, included:
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