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Thetrickle-up effect in the fashion field, also known asbubble-up pattern, is an innovative fashion theory first described by Paul Blumberg in the 1970s. This effect describes when new trends are found on the streets, showing how innovation flows fromthe lower class toupper class.[1] It is in contrast with classical theories of fashion consumption, such as those ofGeorg Simmel andThorstein Veblen, who theorize that the upper classes are the ones who dictate the fashion flow.[2]
Trickle-down fashion can be seen as theantithesis of the trickle-up effect. Although the trickle-down effect itself has only first appeared in the 1950s, the concept can be traced back to sociologist Georg Simmel and economist Thorstein Veblen.[citation needed] Trickle-down theory describes the inability of the lower social classes to develop fashionstyle of their own, leaving only the upper social classes to influence the fashion trend. Lower social classes are therefore left to imitate the fashion trend of the rich. In contrast to this, the trickle-up effect describes an upward diffusion in which fashion styles from lower classes are adopted by the upper classes.[2]
In opposition to the downward diffusion of fashion in earlier years, we now encounter a phenomenon in which trends are more likely to be defined by the lower social strata.[citation needed] It was first described by Paul Blumberg during the 1970s in the United States: "[...] there has been in the last decade more percolating up from the bottom than trickling down from the top".[1] Blumberg elaborates on this by stating that a variety of standards in fashion have been set by the déclassé and anti-class youth by using new styles, like long hair or ashabby chic, to not only tease thestatus symbols of higher classes but also spreading their styles into the fashionelite.[1]
TheT-shirt, from the Middle Age to the early 19th century, had traditionally been considered as a piece of undergarment worn bysailors andblue-collar workers.[3][4]
American actorsMarlon Brando andJames Dean helped shift the perception of the T-shirt, thanks to their appearance with the garment in popular movies. Brando and Dean helped redefine the T-shirt as legitimate outerwear and a deliberately rebellious fashion statement.[5] The T-shirt appears in collections of both low and high-end brands, due to its versatility and the ease of imposing messages on it. A significant example of the t-shirt as messenger is the "anti-nuclear" T-shirt worn by designerKatharine Hamnett during a meeting withMargaret Thatcher or the piece "We all should be feminists" presented atDior Fashion show in 2016.[6][7]
Initially,Levi Strauss'jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn byfactory workers, miners, farmers, and cattlemen throughout the North American West.[8][9] AfterJames Dean popularized them in the movieRebel Without a Cause, wearing jeans became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s.[10][11] During the 1960s the wearing of jeans became more acceptable, and by the 1970s it had become general fashion in the United States for casual wear.[12]
Examples of intentional denim distressing strictly to make them more fashionable can be seen as early as 1935 in Vogue's June issue.[13] Michael Belluomo, editor ofSportswear International Magazine, Oct/Nov 1987, P. 45, wrote that in 1965, Limbo, a boutique in the New York East Village, was "the first retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to get a used, worn effect, and the idea became a hit." He continued, "[Limbo] hired East Village artists to embellish the jeans with patches, decals, and other touches, and sold them for $200." In the early 1980s the denim industry introduced thestone-washing technique developed by GWG also known as "Great Western Garment Co." Donald Freeland ofEdmonton, Alberta pioneered the method,[14] which helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s. Originally an esoteric fashion choice, in the 2010s jeans may be seen being worn by men and women of all ages.[15]
Punk subculture appeared for the first time in the UK in the 1970s. Punk style started as a youth movement, in which the concept of "anti-fashion"[16] was a main feature, due to its origin in the lower classes.Vivienne Westwood was the first designer who used this concept in her collections, which gave her the title "The Mother of Punk".[17] She opened a popular shop in London,[18] which was loved by the celebrities and music stars of the time, including punk bandSex Pistols. Studdedchokers, tattoos, chains and ripped jeans[18] were the main features of the punk aesthetic. In 1977, this style started to be widely appreciated thanks toZandra Rhodes' designs, that added punk elements on elegant gowns: punk chic was born.[16]
Born in the 1970s, thehippie style shifted from being just worn by the lower and middle-class alternative youth to a widespread trend.[citation needed] From 2012 it had a huge comeback with looks made of flow-y-tops and skirts paired with knit shrugs. An example isRalph Lauren's spring collection (2011), which presented skirts with higher waist with the flow-y details towards the bottom.[19] Hippie fashion, today also known asboho-chic, has entered the popular imagination as a trendy style thanks to popular figures like actressVanessa Hudgens, and themed events like theCoachella Valley Music and Arts Festival.[20]
Another example of trickling-up in fashion is given by the revival of some iconic 1980syuppie-inspired pieces of clothing likekitten heels, pastel colors, white commuter sneakers, power shoulder and high waisted pants with skinny belts by major fashion houses like Ralph Lauren,Tory Burch,Dr. Martens, andTibi.[21][22]
In the early 1990s, what would come to be known asgrunge fashion, characterized by oversized plaidflannel shirts, ripped jeans, combat boots, choker necklaces, and dark colored sheer tights, would be mainstreamed as a consequence of the huge success ofSeattle bands such asNirvana,Pearl Jam, andSoundgarden.[23] The idea of wearing clothes that seemed inexpensive and already worn was re-proposed in the 1993 Spring collections by avant-garde designers likeMarc Jacobs,Christian Francis Roth, andAnna Sui, causing disarray in the fashion industry.[24]
Military-inspired clothing first appeared after World War II when lower and middle-class young people started to buy pea jackets andkhaki pants as a sign of independence and protest against war. The trend survived, asChanel,Balmain, Marc Jacobs,Celine,Hermes,Lanvin,D&G andBurberry are some of the fashion houses that from 2010 proposed military-inspired collections.[25] Combat boots, leather studded bracelets, anddouble-breasted jackets with rows of buttons are pieces that can be easily found both in luxury runaways and infast fashion chains.[26]
While influencing the fashion industry was out of reach for an ordinary consumer, social media started to change this former two-dimensional, one-sided industry.Social media networks formed platforms which gave new possibilities to people with a special interest in fashion;influencers meanwhile play an important role in agencies' and brands' marketing strategies. Social media fashion icons can be seen as an example of the trickle-up effect in fashion, as they are able to form trends and influence fashion by presenting their own fashion taste on free platforms likeInstagram orFacebook.[27][28] An example is Italian influencerChiara Ferragni, who started with a small blog and became a fashion icon who runs a fashion business.[29][30]
Fashion is currently a two-way route due to web digital space. Before thedigital era people had to go physically toFashion weeks, but after digitalization people interested in fashion can participate through social media platforms. Social media has carried diversity to the industry, as anyone can present themselves and follow those who relate to them in body or lifestyle.Hashtags like #winterscarves, #millennials, or #winterfashion allow users to easily find virtually any trend.[27][28]
Veblen's trickle-down theory was related to 19th and 20th century society's desire to climb thesocial ladder by imitating the style of the rich. The advent and spread of social media made it possible for people not on the top of the social scale to be noticed and gave them the ability to express their style from anywhere. Designers now haveonline stores as main sales channels and maintain an active social media presence. Digital space is now a key place for brands to showcase collections, and to develop personalities and relationships with customers. The history of trickle-up fashion and the influence of the digital world brought an evolution to the fashion industry. As particular styles began to draw attention on the streets and digital space trends, top designers incorporated them into their collections: an example isGucci's collaboration with a famous graffiti artist, or retailers such asUrban Outfitters, wherestreet fashion is sold at high-end prices.[31][32]
