Steak and kidney pie

A steak and kidney pie, as served in apub
Type	Savoury pie
Place of origin	Britain
Serving temperature	Hot
Main ingredients	Beef kidney onions brown gravy pastry shell
Media: Steak and kidney pie

Steak and kidney pie is a popular British dish. It is a savoury pie filled principally with a mixture of dicedbeef, dicedkidney (which may bebeef,lamb,veal, orpork) andonion. Its contents are generally similar to those ofsteak and kidney puddings.

In modern times the fillings of steak and kidney pies andsteak and kidney puddings are generally identical,^[1] but until the mid-19th century the norms were steak puddings and kidney pies.^{[2][n 1]}Bell's Life in London and Sporting Chronicle, 1826, records a large dish of kidney pies in the window of a baker nearSmithfield,^[4] and ten years later a kidney-pie stand outside what is now theOld Vic, emitting sparks every time the vendor opened his portable oven to hand a hot kidney pie to a customer.^[5]

"Rump Steak and Kidney Pie" was served in aLiverpool restaurant in 1847,^[6] and in 1863 aBirmingham establishment offered "Beef Steak and Kidney Pie".^[7] But until the 1870s kidney pies are far more frequently mentioned in the newspapers, including one thrown at a policeman during an affray inKnightsbridge in 1862,^[8] and an assault case inLambeth in 1867 when a customer attacked a waitress for bringing her a beef pie instead of a kidney one.^[9] By the mid-1870s steak and kidney pies were as often mentioned as kidney ones. Both appeared in verse of the period:

According to the cookery writerJane Grigson, the first published recipe for the combination of steak and kidney was in 1859 inMrs Beeton'sHousehold Management.^{[12][n 2]} Beeton used it in apudding rather than a pie. She had been sent the recipe by a correspondent inSussex in south-east England, and Grigson speculates that it was until then a regional dish, unfamiliar to cooks in other parts of Britain.^[12]

Beeton suggested that steak and kidney could be "very much enriched" by the addition of mushrooms or oysters.^[13] In those days oysters were the cheaper of the two: mushroom cultivation was still in its infancy in Europe and oysters were still commonplace.^[12] In the following centuryDorothy Hartley (1954) recommended the use of black-gilled mushrooms rather than oysters, because long cooking is "apt to make [oysters] go hard".^{[1][n 3]}

Neither Beeton nor Hartley specified the type of animal from which the kidneys were to be used in a steak and kidney recipe. Grigson (1974) calls for either veal or ox kidney,^[12] as doesMarcus Wareing.^[14] Other cooks of modern times have variously specified lamb or sheep kidney (Marguerite Patten,Nigella Lawson andJohn Torode),^[15] ox kidney (Mary Berry,Delia Smith andHugh Fearnley-Whittingstall),^[16] veal kidney (Gordon Ramsay),^[17] either pork or lamb (Jamie Oliver),^[18] and either ox, lamb or veal kidneys (Gary Rhodes).^[19]

Some versions are full, or "double-crust", pies, in which the cooking dish is lined with pastry before the meat mixture is added, after which a pastry top is put over it.^[20] In other versions the meat is put straight into the dish, with only a pastry lid.^[21] In either case, apie funnel is often used to stop the top crust sinking into the meat mixture during baking.^[22] Some recipes call forpuff pastry; others forshortcrust.^[21] In some the meat is cooked before going into the pie;^[23] in others it goes in raw.^[1] In addition to the steak and kidney, the filling typically contains carrots and onions, and is cooked in one or more of beef stock, red wine andstout.^[24]

The steak and kidney pie is found in numerous regional variants. In theWest Country clotted or double cream may be poured into the pie through a hole in the pastry topping just before serving.^[25] The Ormidale pie from theScottish Highlands is flavoured with a teaspoon each ofWorcestershire sauce, vinegar and tomato sauce.^[25] InEast Yorkshire sliced potatoes are substituted for kidneys and the dish is called meat and pot pie.^[25] In the English Midlands, Northern England and Scotland oysters or mushrooms or both are often added; in Scotland this variant is known as Musselburgh pie.^[25]

Among the various vernacular names for steak and kidney pie are Kate and Sidney pie, snake and kiddy pie, and snake and pygmy pie.^[26]Eric Partridge dates the first of these to around 1880.^[27]A substantial part of the plot ofP. G. Wodehouse's 1963 comic novelStiff Upper Lip, Jeeves hinges on the disruptive allure of a magnificent steak and kidney pie for a young man whose fiancée has decreed that he must turn vegetarian.^[28]

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• Beeton, Isabella (1861).The Book of Household Management. London: S.O. Beeton.OCLC 1045333327.
• Berry, Mary (2006).Mary Berry's Christmas Collection. London: Headline.ISBN 978-0-7553-1562-8.
• Boyd, Lizzie (1977).British Cookery: A Complete Guide to Culinary Practice in the British Isles. London: Croom Helm.ISBN 978-0-85664-851-9.
• David, Elizabeth (2000) [1970].Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen. London: Grub Street.ISBN 978-1-902304-66-3.
• Davidson, Alan (1999).The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford:Oxford University Press.ISBN 0-19-211579-0.
• Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh (2005).The River Cottage Year. London: Hodder & Stoughton.ISBN 978-0-340-82822-9.
• Grigson, Jane (1992).English Food. London: Ebury Press.ISBN 978-0-09-177043-3.
• Hartley, Dorothy (1999) [1954].Food in England. London: Macdonald and Jane's.ISBN 978-1-85605-497-3.
• Martin, James (2008).James Martin's Great British Dinners. London: Mitchell Beazley.ISBN 978-1-84533-582-3.
• Partridge, Eric (2009).A Dictionary of Historical Slang. London: Penguin.ISBN 978-0-14-051046-1.
• Patten, Marguerite (1958).Learning to Cook with Marguerite Patten. London: Pan.ISBN 978-0-330-23025-4.{{cite book}}:ISBN / Date incompatibility (help)
• Ramsay, Gordon (2009).Gordon Ramsay's Great British Pub Food. London: HarperCollins.ISBN 978-0-00-728982-0.
• Rhodes, Gary (1994).Rhodes Around Britain. London: BBC Books.ISBN 978-0-563-36440-5.
• Rhodes, Gary (1997).Fabulous Food. London: BBC Books.ISBN 978-0-563-38385-7.
• Torode, John (2008).Beef. London: Quadrille.ISBN 978-1-84400-690-8.
• Willan, Anne (1979).Grand Diplôme Cooking Course. Danbury: Grolier.OCLC 1035310033.
• Wodehouse, P. G. (1966) [1963].Stiff Upper Lip, Jeeves. London: Penguin.ISBN 978-0-14-002479-1.

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• Media related toSteak and kidney pies at Wikimedia Commons
• Steak and kidney pie recipe

• Australian pies
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• English beef dishes
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